Pump turns on bit isn't moving liquid

termite

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Oh my lord, I removed the right angle fittings that are for the video card. Could that have caused the issue? I can't fill is up now because of the leak but can you tell which chamber shouldn't be plugged? If not, I can tray to duct tape and fill the plate.

Lol. Yes. I would almost guarantee that caused your initial issues.

That distro looks like a pure series, so it pumps from the distros reservoir, to the cpu ports, then to the gpu ports, then up the left channel to the rad. You cannot cut off any of those sections only bypass them.

If you didn't toss them, I would assume the kit had all the parts needed. Otherwise, its just the two 90s and a short piece of hard tubing. If you have two straight fittings and are adventurous you could try heating some tubing and making a loop.

For all practical purposes you were trying to pump fluid to nowhere.

Throw that connection back on and try again. When you first fill, you should see a generally level line of fluid across all the ports, once they bubble out.

Don't sweat it, chock it up to lessons learned.
 
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doyll

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Bit if trivia here .. not all "X" head screws are "Phillips" head. While we obviously need to bre using the right size screwdriver bit to fit the screw head size, but we also need to use the screwdriver bit that is designed to fit the type of scrw head we have. What looks liek "Phillips" at a glance are often now "Posidriv" heads .. (and there are also several others like "Frearson", "Cross", "Supadriv" and a few more).

Easiest way to identify "Posidriv" from "Phillips" is "Posidriv" have an "X' stamped on head .. they "X" lines are at 45 degree angle between each of the slots in screw head.

pozidriv_vs_phillips.jpg
While Posidriv are much better head and bit design, using Phillips bit in Posidriv head screw or Posidrive bit in Phillips head screw is a sure way of stripping screw head.
Link below is basic article about "X type screw heads:
https://www.overclock.net/threads/w...irflow-cooler-fan-data.1491876/#post-23158173
 
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Corporate Thug

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Lol. Yes. I would almost guarantee that caused your initial issues.

That distro looks like a pure series, so it pumps from the distros reservoir, to the cpu ports, then to the gpu ports, then up the left channel to the rad. You cannot cut off any of those sections only bypass them.

If you didn't toss them, I would assume the kit had all the parts needed. Otherwise, its just the two 90s and a short piece of hard tubing. If you have two straight fittings and are adventurous you could try heating some tubing and making a loop.

For all practical purposes you were trying to pump fluid to nowhere.

Throw that connection back on and try again. When you first fill, you should see a generally level line of fluid across all the ports, once they bubble out.

Don't sweat it, chock it up to lessons learned.
Appreciate all the help. Next challenge is to get the stripped screws out and re-seat the pump. The crazy glue method did not work so I have some bits coming in used of stripped screw. Bitspower offered to ship me 4 screws at a low low cost of $28. Hopefully the hardware store has something that will fit.

EDIT: found this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Pump-cooler-Black-BP-DDCPC-BK/dp/B00OJDN7MC

The dimensions look to be the same as my pump. Might give it a shot.
 
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termite

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Appreciate all the help. Next challenge is to get the stripped screws out and re-seat the pump. The crazy glue method did not work so I have some bits coming in used of stripped screw. Bitspower offered to ship me 4 screws at a low low cost of $28. Hopefully the hardware store has something that will fit.

EDIT: found this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Pump-cooler-Black-BP-DDCPC-BK/dp/B00OJDN7MC

The dimensions look to be the same as my pump. Might give it a shot.


Honestly I'd take one of the screws to your local hardware store and see if they have the same ones, assuming they have a screw bin. They are probably metric. The ones EKWB uses for their distros and FLT reservoirs to mount a DDC are M4x25mm. Which is the standard DDC screw mounting size.

You could probably find them on amazon as well. Surely for much cheaper than bitspower.

Like these You could get a few lengths. 20/25/30 to cover your bases.
 

hititnquitit

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$28 is ridiculous for 4 screws but thats bp for ya. Being located in...S.Korea or is it Taiwan? (i forget) doesnt help with shipping either. Try giving performance-pcs a call, they would more than likely be able to find out the length and whether they are metric or standard at least. They are very helpful and the most knowledgeable when it comes to wcing gear and theres a good chance they have the screws in stock.
If you can do a search for your specific part number you may be able to suss out the right size that way to.
Check out barrows heatsinks. They are the same as bps but half as expensive. Ive used a couple of theirs in the past and can say they are high quality.
 

Corporate Thug

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Honestly I'd take one of the screws to your local hardware store and see if they have the same ones, assuming they have a screw bin. They are probably metric. The ones EKWB uses for their distros and FLT reservoirs to mount a DDC are M4x25mm. Which is the standard DDC screw mounting size.

You could probably find them on amazon as well. Surely for much cheaper than bitspower.

Like these You could get a few lengths. 20/25/30 to cover your bases.
Found the guide.

https://shop.bitspower.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=2651

Looks like m4x30 mm screws
 

Corporate Thug

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I had to drill into the pump housing and use pliers to unscrew the stripped screws. Unfortunately, I did nick the pump with my drill. Very small so hopefully no damage. Found the hex head version of the m4x30 mm screws at the local hardware store. I very gently screwed the pump back in with my ghetto mode and the plate is now 100% air tight.

Time to fire it up again and hope for the best.
 

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jerry8169

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I had to drill into the pump housing and use pliers to unscrew the stripped screws. Unfortunately, I did nick the pump with my drill. Very small so hopefully no damage. Found the hex head version of the m4x30 mm screws at the local hardware store. I very gently screwed the pump back in with my ghetto mode and the plate is now 100% air tight.

Time to fire it up again and hope for the best.
Should be good, the 2 ports above your jumper there, those are going to the cpu block, correct? Otherwise, you'll need to do another short jumper of tube to connect those runs in the distro plate as well.
 

Corporate Thug

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Should be good, the 2 ports above your jumper there, those are going to the cpu block, correct? Otherwise, you'll need to do another short jumper of tube to connect those runs in the distro plate as well.
Those are indeed going into the cpu block.

Got everything plugged in, no leaks but unfortunately the pump isn't spinning (not even in the flow indicator). I'm guessing the water leak made contact with the pcb of the pump and fried it. The saga continues. Now to find a new pump...

Edit: anyone have any thoughts on these pumps:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133633890307?hash=item1f1d335803:g:6ZIAAOSwo8Nf-3pn

https://www.titanrig.com/custom-pc-...12v-ddc-1t-plus-pump-03-50-ac-0131-01-on.html

I'm not really sure what I'm going for.
 
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hititnquitit

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The 1st one you would have to replace the power plug on. Not a bad deal if you know how to do it.
The second one is fine if you dont mind no pwm control.
Check out performance-pcs.com you may be able to find something with pwm.
 

Corporate Thug

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The 1st one you would have to replace the power plug on. Not a bad deal if you know how to do it.
The second one is fine if you dont mind no pwm control.
Check out performance-pcs.com you may be able to find something with pwm.
Thanks for the reply. Just curious: why would the power plug need to be replaced? Can’t it be plugged in via 3 pin to molex?
 

hititnquitit

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The barrow is a knockoff its not a true ddc so it may or may not fit. You want something built by Laing, Lowara or Xylem to be certain it will line up. Swiftech, EK, Koolance are a few companies that use them but there are many more.
 

Corporate Thug

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The barrow is a knockoff its not a true ddc so it may or may not fit. You want something built by Laing, Lowara or Xylem to be certain it will line up. Swiftech, EK, Koolance are a few companies that use them but there are many more.
I looked up the spec sheet. 62.2 mm x 62.2 mm...I don’t have a caliper but using a using ruler I measured my pump back at a hair under 2.5 inches, so I think it’s 62.2 mm as well. Fingers crossed.
 

Corporate Thug

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Update: got the pump and new screws. Looks to be a perfect fit BUT of course I can't get it air tight. Any last ditch ideas before I scrap this project? I can clearly hear the air escape around the pump area but the pump is screwed on pretty tight without overtightening.

Also, I'm not sure what the correct position for the o-rig is in the pictures below. When I put it around the pump, it falls off the moment I try to screw the pump in.
 

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hititnquitit

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Try using whichever o-ring you havent tried yet (the bp one is probably the one that will fit best).
When you tighten it down start off just a bit tighter than finger tight. What can happen is the o-ring will flatten out and let air in.
 

Nobu

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Here's a screenshot from ek's xres assembly instructions. It's a different product, but the oring should still go in the same place.

Screenshot_20210526-210757.png


The oring should go on the pump body, around that little ridge that encircles the impeller. You may have to tilt the case or remove the reservoir and put it face up on something so you can install the pump without the oring falling off.
 

Corporate Thug

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Ok, first, the o-ring does not stay on around the impeller no matter what but I discovered the bigger issue. I took the pump out of the housing and now I see the problem.

The replacement pump has some ridge that prevents it from sitting flush with the plate. Should have just gone with the OEM laing pump.
 

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hititnquitit

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Yeah i was afraid something wonky was going to mess things up with that barrow pump. Well at least you know and thats alot more than most people can say when comparing different ddc pumps.
Whats chances of your getting the bp pump replaced?
 

Nobu

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You're certain the original pump is dead? Have you tried running it removed from the loop, so you can directly see if the impeller is spinning?
 

Corporate Thug

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hititnquitit

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Corporate Thug

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termite

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The barbs or whatever you are referring to shouldn't matter. The Oring should be the highest point besides the impeller. It looks more like the barrow oring is just garbage or at least inadequate. Try using the original Oring.

If the OEM pump is actually a Liang, and if Barrow bothered to use the same dimensions for their DDC clone then the oring will be compatible.

The Oring should fit inside the groove without stretching or messing with it.
 

hititnquitit

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The barbs or whatever you are referring to shouldn't matter. The Oring should be the highest point besides the impeller. It looks more like the barrow oring is just garbage or at least inadequate. Try using the original Oring.

If the OEM pump is actually a Liang, and if Barrow bothered to use the same dimensions for their DDC clone then the oring will be compatible.

The Oring should fit inside the groove without stretching or messing with it.
Check out the ddc 1t pic, the barrow pump has those same messed up ridges on top of the housing. It doesnt allow the pump to mount flat.
Then compare it to the 4th pic on amazon link. The housing is completely different.
 
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termite

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Check out the ddc 1t pic, the barrow pump has those same messed up ridges on top of the housing. It doesnt allow the pump to mount flat.
It is irrelevant.

The "barbs/ridges" are just structural ridges. The Liang pumps just have an edge around them. Look at any Liang/EK/Swiftech whatever DDC and you will see the same ridges. Just with a nice clean boarder.

That is not to say that Barrow is competent enough to follow established specs.

The oring sits higher than the ridges/barbs structure, or at least should. The oring should be the only thing making contact if the OEM was actually a DDC style pump.

The issue is the Oring. It is is not staying in the groove long enough to seat against the distro plate, is the wrong thickness, or is too soft and is not allowing a good seat.

Or that distro plate will only work with the Bitspower pump.

Try the original oring.
 

hititnquitit

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Yep, your right termite. It just looks like the ridges sit up higher from the picture. The barrow must be a 1t copy.
Im pretty sure he tried the original bp o-ring (should be black) as i suggested that in post 57 but i may be wrong?
 

Corporate Thug

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Yep, your right termite. It just looks like the ridges sit up higher from the picture. The barrow must be a 1t copy.
Im pretty sure he tried the original bp o-ring (should be black) as i suggested that in post 57 but i may be wrong?
Yup, I tried it. The o-rings fit snug on the original pump (I can hold the pump upside down and the ring stays on.) I can't get it to stay on the barrow.

Maybe the Barrow uses a different/thicker o-ring because the ring certainly does not sit on higher than the ridges.

Kind of hard to tell from the pic attached but the ridge in the Barrow is wider than the BP pump.
 

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termite

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Yup, I tried it. The o-rings fit snug on the original pump (I can hold the pump upside down and the ring stays on.) I can't get it to stay on the barrow.

Maybe the Barrow uses a different/thicker o-ring because the ring certainly does not sit on higher than the ridges.

Kind of hard to tell from the pic attached but the ridge in the Barrow is wider than the BP pump.

That inner ring shouldn't matter, at least in regards to the pump sealing.

The pictures you have in post 59, there is a clear bracket, that the oem pump sits in, is that attached to the distro plate? Because the stock pump, has a round body that appears to sit inside that bracket. If that bracket is fixed to the distro plate, then you will have to use the OEM pump.

If that bracket is separate, like it is a clear version of the normal black DDC body, then try to mount the new pump directly to the distro plate, without that bracket. It will never seal when there is a quarter inch of space between the pump body and the seal.
 

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Corporate Thug

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That inner ring shouldn't matter, at least in regards to the pump sealing.

The pictures you have in post 59, there is a clear bracket, that the oem pump sits in, is that attached to the distro plate? Because the stock pump, has a round body that appears to sit inside that bracket. If that bracket is fixed to the distro plate, then you will have to use the OEM pump.

If that bracket is separate, like it is a clear version of the normal black DDC body, then try to mount the new pump directly to the distro plate, without that bracket. It will never seal when there is a quarter inch of space between the pump body and the seal.
Yeah, it's not a great design. If the clear bracket is removed, it leaves a gap in the pump chamber.

The oem pump is basically impossible to find. I think the OC Cool ddc 310 pump may work but someone here said that pump is no good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264993857107?hash=item3db2dd5e53:g:9doAAOSwRRpf61Dm
 

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termite

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Yeah, it's not a great design. If the clear bracket is removed, it leaves a gap in the pump chamber.

The oem pump is basically impossible to find. I think the OC Cool ddc 310 pump may work but someone here said that pump is no good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264993857107?hash=item3db2dd5e53:g:9doAAOSwRRpf61Dm

Unfortunately if the channel you have pointed out is open to the air without that bracket/housing, then no DDC pump will work. The oring would have to be against the distro plate to get a seal, which that bracket would never allow.

I would assume that with the bracket removed, you can access a black oring below it? Your yellow arrow is pointing at it in post 73.

Could you post a picture, no pump, no bracket?

It appears, based on the pics you have provided so far, that the distro plate was designed to only allow the use if that pump.
 

Corporate Thug

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Unfortunately if the channel you have pointed out is open to the air without that bracket/housing, then no DDC pump will work. The oring would have to be against the distro plate to get a seal, which that bracket would never allow.

I would assume that with the bracket removed, you can access a black oring below it? Your yellow arrow is pointing at it in post 73.

Could you post a picture, no pump, no bracket?

It appears, based on the pics you have provided so far, that the distro plate was designed to only allow the use if that pump.
Here you go. The O-ring is accessible once the bracket if off.
 

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termite

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Here you go. The O-ring is accessible once the bracket if off.

Up shit creek then. What a crap design.

Only recourse I can think of is to find a replacement oem pump.

Outlier idea would be find someone who makes distro plates (check ebay) and see if they could cut you a custom adapter.

Also, pull the oem pump apart, impeller, rear housing (if it comes off) and let it dry out for a few days. I have had a DDC fail when it got wet, only to have it work again a week later. after I had purchased a new one.
 

Corporate Thug

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Up shit creek then. What a crap design.

Only recourse I can think of is to find a replacement oem pump.

Outlier idea would be find someone who makes distro plates (check ebay) and see if they could cut you a custom adapter.

Also, pull the oem pump apart, impeller, rear housing (if it comes off) and let it dry out for a few days. I have had a DDC fail when it got wet, only to have it work again a week later. after I had purchased a new one.
I was afraid of that. I've been reading the support section of Bitspower's website and it seems like this pump issue is a common problem. I'm thinking away going with a standard res/pump combo. That way, at least I would be able to move the loop to another case in the future.

I was thinking about doing a separate res/pump combo but it appears that the PC-011 doesn't have enough room. What a mess.
 

termite

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Found this on Aliexpress for $97:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Looks like it will fit a standard ddc pump?

Looks like a just a front distro without a pump port, so any pump would work.

Keep in mind you will likely have to do your own hard tubes.

The PC-011 has room for a pump/res combo, even the mini.

The only advise I can give on that is plan what/where you want stuff and then buy the parts, don't just start buying parts and hope they work.

You already have a DDC pump, you would just need the top/res combo, additional fittings and the tubing.
 

Corporate Thug

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Looks like a just a front distro without a pump port, so any pump would work.

Keep in mind you will likely have to do your own hard tubes.

The PC-011 has room for a pump/res combo, even the mini.

The only advise I can give on that is plan what/where you want stuff and then buy the parts, don't just start buying parts and hope they work.

You already have a DDC pump, you would just need the top/res combo, additional fittings and the tubing.
Thanks for the advice! For the distroplate I linked, do you have any idea why it says for intel cpu only?
 
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