Project: 'Troy's Pinball' - Arcade Sequel Build

Thank you so much for this thread OP, enjoyed it tremendously! If I ever win the lotto would probably build a warehouse full of classic pinball machines open to the public, own just about every digital pinball simulators on pc and consoles, but nothing comes close to the real thing.
 
@ Hagrid - The Diablotek PSU is out as of a couple posts ago where I showed the Antec EarthWatts 750 PSU I will be using instead.
 
@ Hagrid - The Diablotek PSU is out as of a couple posts ago where I showed the Antec EarthWatts 750 PSU I will be using instead.

I was just having a bit o fun as I was reading. :)

Nice project though.
 
I drilled a couple holes in the back sides of the alum-angle side braces to allow the wiring from a pair of SMD LED strips to poke through, then I soldered the wires together onto longer wires.

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Below are the finished products all wired and sleeved, both are now ready to be installed.

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Time to build and attach the back box... I used a couple C-clamps to hold the side panels in place and then marked and drilled the attachment holes.

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With the back box attached and the fresh cut top panel in place for a test fit, it is finally starting to look like a pinball machine.

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Here is a look at the attached top panel from behind the machine, below it is a length of alum-angle attached to the black plastic trim piece that will hold the playfield glass in place.

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VERY awesome build, and very awesome that you have a couple of sponsorships for this.

I love pinball - 2 of the 3 times I've been to Vegas, I've stopped by the Pinball Hall of Fame and threw a bunch of quarters in the machines (and bubble hockey). It's stuff like this that brings me joy. :)

Can't wait to see the finished product. I have one gripe, though: I didn't see any tilt sensors. :D
 
DoomDoomDoom said:
Can't wait to see the finished product. I have one gripe, though: I didn't see any tilt sensors.

Don't gripe, I am including a Mot-Ion Adapter & Digital Plunger Kit....

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Whoops, just thought it was a fancy name for a plunger and didn't take that into consideration. Carry on!
 
awesome build so far... how's the cost of one of these compare to a real pinball machine?
 
awesome build so far... how's the cost of one of these compare to a real pinball machine?

This is not an easy question, the aluminum and acrylic I am using for my pinball build are probably more expensive than recycling an existing used table or fabricating one from wood, plus you don't have to use 3 monitors, 600 LED's or a digital plunger, so there are cheaper options.

If you are asking how much I have into my build, so far about $2000... compared to a real pinball machine, lets say the new Stern X-men pinball at $5000 - $7000, a digital table at 2K is a bargain. Besides, my pinball machine will include that table as soon as it is converted to Visual Pinball or Future Pinball and there are hundreds of other tables out there if I wanted to spend the time to set them all up.
 
That's awesome... I like the idea of digital, especially being able to play multiple tables... I look forward to seeing the final product!
 
The Sapphire sponsored hardware arrived, the PURE Black 990FX socket AM3+ motherboard is shown below. I have been building computers since the late 90's, so I didn't have to look at this motherboard for very long to know that it's top tier with a switchable dual bios, post code readout and built in power and reset buttons, good stuff.

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Sapphire also sent a pair of Radeon HD 6870 cards... any fears I had about the hardware being too underpowered to run Virtual Pinball, Future Pinball or HyperPin with every bell and whistle enabled are now history.

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Sapphire is awesome and it would be a crime to hide away the killer hardware powering my pinball table, so I am going to work a window into the side with their logo on the outline, I'll also be building a mirrored enclosure inside the table to showcase the hardware within an optical illusion.

SapphireWindowSmall.jpg


The parts needed to create the mirror illusion are shown below, clockwise from top right is a cut down Lian Li motherboard tray, black plastic mesh, white lazer LED, four 12v white LED strips, 12" x 24" sheet of 1/8" first surface mirror, Alum-angle, 3M heavy duty mounting tape, paper Sapphire template, 6" x 12" two-way mirror, 12" x 36" light diffuser film roll.

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The motherboard tray was too large, so I measured things out and then used a Dremel to cut off the excess bit. Clamping down a piece of flat aluminum angle protects the surface and makes the cutting easier by allowing the cutting disk to butt against it, which keeps the edge cleaner and straighter.

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I needed to find the proper location for the motherboard and window, once that was figured out I taped down the window template.

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Below shows placement of the motherboard tray, having hardware in hand let me know that there are a few aspects of the mirror illusion design I still need to work out. They are small details and I will figure it out, but until then there is still work to be done on the back box.

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The SMD LED strips that I bought for the sides of the back box were just a bit too long, luckily they can be cut at every third LED (as shown below), so crisis averted.

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I installed two SMD LED strips onto the left and right side pieces of aluminum angle, I also rivet on support pieces for the 23" LCD monitor and cut 3 1/2" out of the bottoms of the angle to make room for the speakers.

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Below is the 23" LCD monitor test fit onto the side support braces, since this monitor isn't VESA mountable it will be held in place with 3M heavy duty mounting tape.

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It will also be held in place by an aluminum angle support brace on the bottom, the brace sits just beneath the edge mounted monitor control buttons, so they are all still fully accessible.

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The 16" LCD monitor is VESA compatible, but I almost wish it weren't because 3M mounting tape would have been a lot easier than the home brewed VESA rigging I built for it.

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This next picture shows how my Franken-VESA mount attaches to the back box, the four LCD attachment points are actually recycled bits from the 40" HDTV I tore down earlier.

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Both monitors are shown test mounted below, since the front of the back box has a tapered edge the important and difficult thing is keeping everything lined up straight and even to the front edge.

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To mount the speakers I cut a piece of aluminum angle slightly smaller than the height of the speaker and then cut a piece of 1/4" acrylic the same length as the alum-angle but slightly wider than the speaker and used two screws to hold it together, it is mounted onto the back box side aluminum angle with four rivets.

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I will either use 3M mounting tape or Weld-on 16 to attach the speakers to the acrylic mounts I made. By cutting the bases off of the speakers I can get more left/right, up/down movement to better center them, unmodified the speakers sit tight to the 16" LCD monitor and level to the front edge as shown below.

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I cut a piece of MDF pressboard to fit the back side of the back box, then I measured out placement for two 120mm fans near the top of the panel.

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I used a dtremel to cut the holes and then cleaned up the edges with a dremel sanding bit, below shows a fan test fit and the fan controller that still needs modification.

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I drilled an 1/4" hole in the pressboard under each of the 120mm fan holes to accommodate the fan control knob posts, the following picture shows the new improved mounting method.

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Time to get back working on the Sapphire illusion, the first thing I did was make a mock up to get a better idea of how things will work. I made a design in Sketchup, bought a piece of foam backboard, then measured, cut out and taped together the four panels.

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Next the panels are test fit to the motherboard, which looks sweet...

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Then the panels get test fit inside the pinball table, which fits sweet...

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And the panels get test fit to make sure the position of the window decal template is correct, it lines up sweet...

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I took my Sapphire window design to Agnew Graphics, a local sign company, the price was reasonable and they did a good job cutting my design fast... and they even gave me a second (mulligan) decal free.

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AMD came through as well, the sponsored FX4170 processor arrived via FedEx today and it came housed in a sweet little green case, so big thanks go out to them.

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The foam board illusion section mock up worked well, now it's time to lay out measurements onto the two-way and first-surface mirrors and prep them for cutting.

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I scored and snapped the mirrors and then couldn't resist setting it up around the motherboard to see how cool it looked, and also to get an idea of what to do next.

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I used the back piece of motherboard tray and the motherboard back plate as a template and then cut the sections of mirror out using a ripsaw blade.

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I had to modify the mounting bracket for both video cards to make them fit right against the mirror panel, a Dremel and a metal file made short work of it.

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The next picture shows the illusion section test fit inside the pinball table, everything looks good from this angle.

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And it looks good from this side too, it's almost ready for final assembly and installation.

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Below shows the finished modified motherboard tray, I rivet a couple pieces of aluminum-angle onto the top of the tray to hold the back mirror panel in place and I rivet a few more pieces of alum-angle around the side edges as mounting points.

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Next up are the mirror panels and pieces of aluminum-angle that make up the illusion section, I'm waiting to make two more cutouts into the mirror panel on the right before they can be final installed onto the motherboard tray.

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Another great company has officially come onboard as a project sponsor, thanks go out to Performance-PCs for supplying my pinball project with a kick-ass Scythe Samurai-ZZ CPU cooler.

 
congrats on another sponsorship. have you tried the optical illusion yet? i cant wait to see it. this thing looks great, looking forward to more progress. :)
 
congrats on another sponsorship. have you tried the optical illusion yet? i cant wait to see it. this thing looks great, looking forward to more progress. :)
Yes, the illusion works great, it looks like hardware going on forever in there.

I removed the TV speakers from their plastic mounting assemblies and then devised a fairly simple way to mount them into the front of the pinball machine.

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Below shows the aluminum angle and pop rivet solution to mounting the speakers.

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Here's a look from inside the table at the back of both speakers being test fit.

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The bottom edge of the speaker has an angled piece of plastic that should help to direct the sound upward toward the player. The black plastic mesh covers I made will be fit over the speakers during final assembly.

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I rewired to lengthen and then sleeved the wiring to the speakers to give them a more finished look, even though it will never really be seen.

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I removed the lower back panel and drilled three holes into it to accommodate the rocker switches that will control most of the lighting, while it was off I spray painted it black.

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Below is a close up of the rocker switches...

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I put the back box face down and cleaned the back pieces of aluminum angle with alcohol and a paper towel, then I cut, positioned and stuck down some heavy duty Velcro.

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I painted the back panel to the back box black, I also installed two 120mm fans and then lined up and stuck the panel down onto the Velcro.

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Here is a view from the inside of both 120mm fans and fan controllers.

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Close up shot of the freshly installed fans...

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The Performance-PCs sponsored Scythe Samurai-ZZ CPU cooler arrived and I waste no time installing it.

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Here is a shot of the CPU cooler in its new home inside the illusion... the mirrors work great, CPU coolers appear to go on as far as you can see.

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Another shot, this time looking over the CPU cooler and into the illusion.

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The only way the two-way mirror illusion will work is if the lighting inside is brighter than the ambient light outside, that said I cut some channel aluminum-angle the same length as the LED strips to make a lighting array.

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I attached the six pieces of channel aluminum-angle to a length of corner angle with rivets and installed the light strips into the channels, four white and two blue super bright LED strips.

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Below is the finished lighting array, the wiring will receive the sleeve treatment when they are final installed.

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Here is how it looks on the illusion section, I will be cutting the side rail to allow more light onto the motherboard. Small problem though, the lighting makes the illusion section just a bit too much taller and it sits directly below where one of the circuit boards from the TV is located.

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I would almost swear that this Sceptre TV was made to be modified because moving stuff around on it is super easy. Below shows the new power inlet and black power circuit board placement, well out of the way now.

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Since everything else is basically done it's time to move on to masking for paint, well not really paint, it's actually automotive vinyl color. I masked off a 3/8" and a 1/4" strip over the SMD LEDs that run up sides of the back box.

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Here is the front of the machine also prepped for paint...

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This next picture shows the installation of the side vinyl masks, the two SMD LED strip locations were also masked off with 3/8" tape.

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Here's a look at the installed vinyl mask and the SMD location masking, vinyl color comes next and that means it's not far now.

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Here is the entire thing completely disassembled, the panels were cleaned up and all the masked edges were tamped, so it's ready to spray.

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Below shows what the acrylic panels look like after the first coat of black vinyl color.

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Three cans later and the front side of each panel was sufficiently black. The backs of each panel were masked and then sprayed with blue vinyl color behind the vinyl decals.

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Here it is with the all the masking removed, the shiny smooth blue letters look killer against the finely textured black surface.

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Sapphire rocks and so does their window outline, vinyl sign material makes a great mask when used with automotive vinyl color, I didn't have color seep under the mask anywhere.

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Time to install the Sapphire decal I had made, I lined it up and taped it along the top edge, then removed the backing paper and used the blue card to smooth it down.

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It looks good, but I still have a little more to do on the back sides of the panels before they can be installed.

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I cut the roll of light diffusing film into strips and black electrical taped them onto the inside panels over the SMD LED strips location, then I brushed all of the taped edges with liquid electrical tape to make sure they stay put. A piece of light diffusing film was also cut to fit over the Sapphire "S", it will also be getting some glow treatment.

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Both side panels are finished and ready for installation... I still can't believe how nice they turned out.

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It took a lot of patience and cans of vinyl color to get all the panels looking right, but at $9 a can I wasn't so worried about the back, if it looks a little splotchy it's because it is. I vinyl colored the duct to the PSU black and screwed it onto the now ready for install back panel.

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Front panel unmasked and ready to install.

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I am putting the back box together first, get those pieces together and out of the way so I can focus on the table part of the build... not far now.

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The back box is assembled, now to put the side panels onto the table starting with the back. I also bought a seven outlet surge protector for the inside of the cabinet to replace of the six outlet adapter type I had originally planned to use.

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Below shows where the surge protector will be installed, I will use the heavy duty double stick tape to hold it in place. The biggest selling point for this surge bar vs. what I was going to use... it has a 10 foot cord.

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I installed both of the side panels and then finished with the front. Once it was all together I couldn't resist plugging it in to check out the lighting.

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Here is a look at the front, it looks good and I had no idea at this point, but I had the legs installed and started putting the front together when I realized there was a problem.

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The plunger is too long and sits too high, as such it is directly in the way of the TV, the plunger will need to be relocated lower on the panel... below is a freshly cut new front panel.

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I used four screws and large washers to hold the old front panel securely on top of the new one, it is now just a nicely painted hole saw template.

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Fast forward and the new panel is cut, masked off and ready for vinyl color.

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I took the redo as an opportunity to fix a few things I wasn't happy with, the top panel in the picture below is now scrap and is only shown for comparison. I cleaned up the plunger hole and put the buttons below the plunger back into two separate holes, I also made the left side lower button hole smaller and fixed the edges of the speaker holes.

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Next up are the legs, I could have just bolt them on the way they were but I want to make sure that the legs won't scratch up my machine over time. Below shows what I came up with...

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Here are the four table legs, all felt up and ready to go.

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Mounting the legs was no easy feat, dipping the bolt threads in petroleum jelly finally helped them go in easier. With all four legs installed it is actually starting to look like something...

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^ Thanks guys.

I bought a few more parts for the pinball machine, two 6" USB extension cables five blue and five black SPST NO buttons, a 1.5" square blue LED pushbutton, a twenty LED automotive dome light, a metal plunger back plate and four rubber feet.

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I rivet together a couple pieces of aluminum angle and attached the 20 LED dome light to it at the level of the side Sapphire logo, below it is the acrylic mount I made for the Pinball Wizard PCB.

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I had to modify the metal plunger back plate and a few pieces of acrylic to mount the plunger. I also installed the side buttons and the front speakers.

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Below is a shot of the front, I installed SMD LED strips to the underside edge of the table all the way around.

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Here is a 3/4 view, ignore the wiring hanging out the bottom, it will all be neatened up closer to the finish.

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Next up, another LED test video...

http://youtu.be/GG1IDoAcJRQ
 
The front blue LED button and LED jumbo push button are wired to power. I didn't like that when standing and looking at the machine the LED strips I installed on the table underside were visible, moving the strips back an inch did the trick.

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In a darkened room the blue glow under the machine is pretty intense...

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The black tubular thing below the blue square push button is an arcade push button wrench, it only cost a couple bucks and for getting buttons fit tight it's worth every penny.

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In the following picture I have all of my buttons and plunger wired to the Pinball Wizard/Mot-Ion controller, I also installed four push buttons into the bottom of the machine and wired up the square blue push button. Two 120mm fans were installed in front of the freshly meshed bottom vent/access hole

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The TV controls were mounted on the inside edge of the front access/vent hole, beside the TV hand controls sits the IR remote receiver/power LED PCB.

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Here is a bottom up shot of the TV controls and remote control PCB.

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I cut a length of adhesive backed felt to line the back brace where the 16" monitor face will rest, the area under the sub woofer and any piece of aluminum angle that makes contact with the sub woofer were also lined with felt to prevent unwanted vibration.

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The sub woofer and power supply are installed...

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Motherboard, video cards and lighting are wired and installed. There are three separate lighting elements that make up the Sapphire window effect, two are shown below and one still has to be wired, each has it's own on/off switch on the back of the machine.

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Here is a nice shot of the window...

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Here's why two-way mirror was used, the video cards reflection in the picture below appears to go on forever.

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I turned on all of the blue SMD LED strips to make sure they would not interfere with or over power the window.

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The blue LED strips and window lighting work really well together...

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It's starting to fill up with hardware, other than the 40" TV the table part is fully assembled and ready for some wire management.

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I almost forgot to show that the Sapphire window is a mirror when the backlighting is off...

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I mounted the 16" monitor into the back box and laid down some 3M screw strong tape along the top and side edges to hold the 23" LCD in place.

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The back box is installed but the side LED lighting still needs to be wired, here is the view from the back...

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With the back box attached it looks like a pinball machine, better yet it feels really solid. The two wires dangling from the front are USB extension cables that will be tucked away inside when it's finished.

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The back box SMD LED strips are wired.

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Here is another LED video, this one shows all three of the Sapphire lighting effects, the back box lights and the sound activation module that controls the blue LED light strips in the mirror illusion as well as half of the back box LED lighting.

http://youtu.be/c-8FXe7-seI

Here is a shot of the whole thing all lit up...

xPinBackBoxLit%20014.jpg
 
this is very impressive
Thank you, I'm glad you like it.

The cables inside the pinball machine are out of control, a good part of the mess is from power cables. I ordered three one footers to cut down on some of it, now the 16" monitor, Antec PSU and the power brick for the LED lighting all have short power cables.

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I attached two strips of 3M screw strong tape to the backs of the speakers, this stuff is great and it really helps move fabrication along.

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Here is a shot of the back box with everything installed, I still need to make a back painted acrylic cover piece for the front of the back box.

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Every pinball machine has a lockdown bar to hold the playfield glass down, below is what I came up with for the lockdown bar on my machine. I measured, cut and drilled a piece of acrylic including a button hole, I also cut to length a piece of black plastic lockdown channel and aluminum angle and then bolt everything together.

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Assembled and installed for a test fit and it looks pretty snazzy, now it just needs some black vinyl paint.

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I plan to attach the acrylic lockdown using auto panel fasteners, my reasoning is if I ever need to remove the playfield glass I can simply open the access door in the bottom of the machine and pop up the lockdown panel with no tools required.

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Here is the finished lockdown panel painted and installed, the square blue button is wired for pausing the game, the camera flash/angle makes the square button look kind of washed out when it is actually the exact same color as the other two blue buttons.

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^ Thanks guys.


Time to make the back glass, below is a sheet of clear acrylic that I copied measurements onto and then double stick taped some aluminum angle onto it in preparation for scoring and snapping.

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Here it is test fit, it was too tight so I had to sand down the edges a little to make it fit right.

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I removed the paper backing and set it in place, using a black Sharpie I marked the corners of both screens with a dot and measured/marked an X through the centers the centers of both speakers.

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I put the back glass front side down on the table and using clear contact paper, a ruler and a razor blade cut masks for both monitors, wide masking tape was placed on the backside of the speaker cut-outs in prep for some 2 1/2" hole saw action.

xPinBackBoxFrontGlass%20017.jpg


The back glass was then back painted with Plasti Kote vinyl paint and test fit again, I have a couple more things to do to the back glass before it can be final installed, but it's not far now.

xPinBackBoxFrontGlass%20018.jpg
 
Below is a side edge view of the back glass panel, it is a friggin' dust magnet and the worst part is that no matter how much I dust it off it keeps coming back... I have been down this road before though and know exactly how to handle it.

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Time to cut out for the LCD screen faces, in the next picture I taped thin lines to the exact edges of each screen in preparation for cutting.

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I used my Dremel and a ripsaw blade to make the cut outs for both screens, then the edges were sanded and it was sprayed with black vinyl paint on both sides. I cut the top edge of the back glass panel a hair short by mistake, so I used a length of black automotive door edge trim to fix it.

xPinFixedBackGlass%20030.jpg


My back glass is now more of a trim panel, but I don't mind because it will make cleaning the LCD monitor screens a lot easier, and with the acrylic removed the monitors won't have as much reflective glare.

xPinFixedBackGlass%20034.jpg
 
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