Project Orthrus - Smallest SLI mATX case (V2)

Awesome ! Welcome to the forums. Im humbled by your support :) Wish i could spend more time on the case and build right now, but looks like i'll be away from home for another 2 weeks at least. But words like yours help me reinvigorate me to pursue the manufacturing of the case :) Much appreciated !

You are more than welcome! Enjoy working and traveling! At the very least you will have to sell the plans, so we can all DIY :p

Keep up the good work!
 
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Looks like a 240mm rad. It went down from triple 92mm to dual 120mm (I think)
 
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I don't have any other angels right now as I'm away from home. Travelling for work.
But yes, its a little wider and a little longer to accomodate a dual 120mm radiator. (240mm aio)
 
A nice news that can provide the possibility of placing two blocks on 2 video cards

Dimensions: 70 x 29.5 x 19.3mm (L x W x H) (Dimensions: 70 x 25 x 15mm (L x W x H) It is 4.3mm lower than the original

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-terminal-rotary-90-black

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Hey Carisma,

I've just started talking to manufacturers now, so no ETA at the moment just yet
 
Hello,
Is it possible to fit 2x 240 /280 or 240 + 360 radiators inside?
 
Hey arg,

There is 60mm clearance (for thickness) at the front of the case. So I don't think that would be possible.
Also only 240mm is supported.
But with the release of the new Noctua 120x15mm fans you could probably setup a push/pull configuration :)
 
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Work is finally continuing on my build in the case :D :D :D :D

I've measured the new rotary terminals and they will definitely help with the build:



I've also had to re-cable another power supply. Lets just say I had to give the other one up for "testing purposes" :)
So here's a high level overview of what's involved with that:

1) Cut off cables, leaving enough to grab with pliers (i cut them too short here)


2) This is what the bottom side originally looks like:


3) Mask off the remaining area that you're not working on, as there'll be a ton of little solder particles when you're done.


4) Mark the solder points which you're going to file down with a dremel.


5) Don't go too close to the PCB or you'll damage it, but dremel off the excess solder with care, especially where the ground points are. Those will be the hardest to desolder hence why we need to dremel off some solder. (Also notice all the little particles. You don't want to be cleaning those up afterwards so better cover up in the first place :)


6) Solder in the new cables. Plan ahead, group your 12v, 3.3v, 5v, and GND cables in small batches and solder in from the back of the PSU towards the front.
 
Very interesting :)
Looks like lots of good parts are coming out. I can't test all of them, I'll have to draw the line somewhere but I'm sure as soon as I get the case out these will be evaluated :D
 
Solder sucker is not good enough for this job. The solder blob on the ground connections is too big and even a professional soldering iron can't get it hot enough, hence the dremel.

The PSU comes with only 1 x 8 PIN PCIE power connector and 2 x EPS 8 PIN connections. So those had to be changed to 2 x 6+2 + 8 PIN PCIE connections
 
Also quick update on SLI cables.
I found these to work very well.



They are fujitsu branded SLI cables. Slightly longer than the longest ASUS cables available on the market. Problem is their price right now so I hope Lian Li come up with something of their own or start mass producing these. I was lucky and found them on Amazon.de for 15 euro each. Now the price is back to astronomical amounts. But they fit and hide perfectly !!!!

 
LukeD, The more competitors, the more flexPSU options we will have that is great!
The more competitors, the more flexPSU options we will have that is great!
Wow two bridges cost pretty much the price of a good memory kit! LOL
I hope now that lian li will launch the case with the parallel VGAs just like your cheaper bridges come up!
Your case as always beautiful, the space between the VGAs are well apart, the new review you get for 1 ~ 2cm more there between the two?
Continue this beautiful work LukeD, your project is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen and I wish to have you
 
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Here's a little V2 next to V1 action :) - photo i took a while ago.


Any particular reason the v2 is wider? I'd kill for a v1 sized case for m-atx. V1 looks to be the perfect size already. I'm a sucker for small cases.
 
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I love this so much .
I now hate myself for selling my z97m oc formula board.
looks like I'll be upgrading soon....

Will at least 1 3.5" drive fit anywhere in there?
 
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Any particular reason the v2 is wider? I'd kill for a v1 sized case for m-atx. V1 looks to be the perfect size already. I'm a sucker for small cases.

V2 is wider to accommodate the 120mm wide radiator and fans. Previously the case was wide enough just to accommodate 92mm fans.
 
V2 is wider to accommodate the 120mm wide radiator and fans. Previously the case was wide enough just to accommodate 92mm fans.

I'm not a fan of water cooling. So 92mm is fine with me. *sigh* I'm probably a minority in this feeling though
 
Finally starting to come together.




Also, do you guys have any suggestions on where to put the bleed port or make any changes to the loop ?
I'm looking to do some hardline tubing and just wondering if it will be possible. Looking for 90 degree bends as much as possible.

 
Temporary custom loop with soft tubing done and running .... man ... it gets toasty with 7700k @ 4.5Ghz + 2 x 1080ti's let me tell you that ...



Screenshots above were with 2 x 120mm fans at 100% speed

With side panels on, fans at 70% just like the original tests I'm getting:
Ambient: 22.5 c
CPU: 76 c
GPU1: 65 c
GPU2: 67 c
Furmark running @ 4k and CPU burner running 4/8 threads
PSU peaking @ 640 watts at wall and is getting a little noisy

Looks like i might have to go to a Noctua NH9Li for the CPU and keep the GPU's on water only.
 
Why? I think a L9i for the CPU will result in much worse results. Also 65°C and 67°C is great for the GPUs.

You think so dondan ?
I'm worried what will happen to the water at that temp, especially when summer comes along and ambient temp is likely to be around 25-27c.
I noticed some condensation on the hoses i was filling the system in.
 
Finally starting to come together.




Also, do you guys have any suggestions on where to put the bleed port or make any changes to the loop ?
I'm looking to do some hardline tubing and just wondering if it will be possible. Looking for 90 degree bends as much as possible.


Just saw something linked in the Ncase thread that might be valuable for you:

http://imgur.com/a/k9I59 Thought I would share this, found the link on another site. The guy is watercooling his Ncase with a removable reservoir, I have to say it is a really nice clean build.
I know how parallel cooling works and that it does work, but everytime I see it I always think that water is going to go right through the GPU.

If the quicklinks were positioned just above your pump, you could use the external reservoir for both filling and draining.
 
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