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Project: Hutch, a Qmicra v2 gets liquid...
- Thread starter craigbru
- Start date
Um... pay no attention to the amount of time that has passed between now and my last post... The date's are a lie, or the cake is, or something like that... 
Part of the goal in modding this case was to ensure plenty of airflow. The radiators are only as good as the amount of airflow that moves through them. Once that air moves through them, it needs to have someplace to go. That led me to what you are about to see next. I'm going to cut out the sides of the case, and prepare to put mesh in it's place.
I'll be using the same mesh as the front, and have even copied the front's pattern for a fairly consistent look and feel.
Here is the first side taped out and ready for the dremel. The stock mesh will soon be history...
A little bit later, I'm left with the rough opening in the side of the case.
Here is the same side after being filed and sanded.
With one side cut, I can begin marking out the second side. Notice it's slightly different in layout than the first. The protrusion on the far side, will have a cut out for power and reset switches, as well as a USB port. The preceding items will be mounted to a panel on the case itself. That will allow the cover to be removed without the need to disconnect any cabling.
Up next will be the finished cutting on the second side, and some mesh placement. That also means I'm about to bring a new technique to the table. Stay tuned for the debut of the 'torch'...
Part of the goal in modding this case was to ensure plenty of airflow. The radiators are only as good as the amount of airflow that moves through them. Once that air moves through them, it needs to have someplace to go. That led me to what you are about to see next. I'm going to cut out the sides of the case, and prepare to put mesh in it's place.
I'll be using the same mesh as the front, and have even copied the front's pattern for a fairly consistent look and feel.
Here is the first side taped out and ready for the dremel. The stock mesh will soon be history...
A little bit later, I'm left with the rough opening in the side of the case.
Here is the same side after being filed and sanded.
With one side cut, I can begin marking out the second side. Notice it's slightly different in layout than the first. The protrusion on the far side, will have a cut out for power and reset switches, as well as a USB port. The preceding items will be mounted to a panel on the case itself. That will allow the cover to be removed without the need to disconnect any cabling.
Up next will be the finished cutting on the second side, and some mesh placement. That also means I'm about to bring a new technique to the table. Stay tuned for the debut of the 'torch'...
Haha, no doubt!
The last update left off with me about to cut the second side of the case cover. So, that's where we'll pick up now. In the following picture, I've cut the hole, filed, and sanded it to a finished state. You can see the cutout behind which the power and reset buttons will find their new home.
Next up is to get the AC Ryan mesh cut down to size. Let the sparks fly!
All we need now is a little filing... I thought I'd show you something else as well. These slots are cut in to the top of my workbench with a few specific purposes in mind. It makes cutting and filing a breeze. All work is well supported, and there's even a tray underneath to catch all the filings and cuttings. This has made a world of difference compared to hanging work off the side of a bench.
With the mesh cut to shape, I now need to bend it to match the angles in the case cover. So, I pull out my little bending brake that proved it's worth during Project: Rogue's construction.
Finally I've got the mesh sitting in place. It fits well, so no further modifying is needed.
With the mesh all ready to go, the next update will find it attached to the cover a little more permanently...
formula409
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2005
- Messages
- 311
Pretty sick
Right here Mark!
http://www.hackerthreads.com/ItemMatrix.asp?GroupCode=1600116&eq=&MatrixType=1
Thanks man!
Randominal
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
- Messages
- 239
As someone planning to do some first time case modding in a few months time, I'd like to ask you how easy it is to cut straight lines with a dremel? That is my greatest fear for when I start doing my own mods - being unable to cut straight and ending up with a horrible botch job. Are there any useful tools that can help you make a straight cut or is it just down to a steady hand?
Cant wait to see more of this mod after the amazing work with the rogue.
Cant wait to see more of this mod after the amazing work with the rogue.
Not a problem!
As someone planning to do some first time case modding in a few months time, I'd like to ask you how easy it is to cut straight lines with a dremel? That is my greatest fear for when I start doing my own mods - being unable to cut straight and ending up with a horrible botch job. Are there any useful tools that can help you make a straight cut or is it just down to a steady hand?
Cant wait to see more of this mod after the amazing work with the rogue.
To be honest, cutting straight lines isn't terribly difficult. The biggest problem most people have, is the disc binding or hopping out of the cut and flying across the surface of whatever you are cutting. A bit of advice though...
1. I find that using a right angle attachment, or flexible extension helps control quite a bit.
2. Let the cutting disc do the work. Forcing it will only cause your dremel to overheat and damage the brushes.
3. Cut inside your marking lines. You can always go back and take more material off if needed. Also, learn to be good with a file. That's the best way to clean up cuts.
4. Mask the area around your cuts. This will help protect things should you slip.
5. Spend the money on reinforced cutting discs. Especially of the EZ-lock variety. You'll thank me.
6. Don't bother cutting anything with a dremel that couldn't be cut better with a jigsaw. Make sure it's an appropriate situation for using the dremel.
7. Measure twice, and cut once. Just be patient, and take your time.
8. Oh, and lastly, wear face protection. Goggles at minimum, but a full face shield is best. Also, be sure to wear a dust mask. Aluminum dust in particular is pretty nasty. If it gets in your lungs, bad things might happen to you later in life...
Randominal
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
- Messages
- 239
ok thanks, useful info. But when you say jobs which a jigsaw is more appropriate, what kind of jobs? Should i just get a jigsaw instead of the dremel if im pretty much only gonna be cutting straight lines?
EDIT: ok i just saw this: http://video.yahoo.com/watch/1216205/5347311
This looks promising and the kind of thing Im after since i can then get the dremel "work bench" to have a drill press aswell. It seems much simpler than cutting discs but i dont see anyone using it - is it not suitable for cutting through aluminium or plexi?
EDIT: ok i just saw this: http://video.yahoo.com/watch/1216205/5347311
This looks promising and the kind of thing Im after since i can then get the dremel "work bench" to have a drill press aswell. It seems much simpler than cutting discs but i dont see anyone using it - is it not suitable for cutting through aluminium or plexi?
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If you are looking to make long straight cuts, then use a jigsaw. If you are going to have small runs, and odd shapes, then use a dremel. Honestly, if your budget allows it, then get both. If it doesn't, then just get the dremel. It's infinitely more useful.
There is a reason you don't see anyone using that kit for modding... Using spiral bits in aluminum is a horrible experience. The bit just gets aluminum lodged in it after a few seconds, and becomes useless. It may work for plexi, but definitely not aluminum.
There is a reason you don't see anyone using that kit for modding... Using spiral bits in aluminum is a horrible experience. The bit just gets aluminum lodged in it after a few seconds, and becomes useless. It may work for plexi, but definitely not aluminum.
Randominal
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
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- 239
ok thanks again.
Guess ill get a jigsaw then.
Guess ill get a jigsaw then.
Brazing... A sound idea, with execution caveats. I've talked about the technique in past posts, and have been really looking forward to putting it to use in my modding. So, with a few sticks of HTS-2000 and my torch, I made a few practice runs with great success. However, with the reality of using the actual case cover, things turned out a little differently...
I was having problems with getting the aluminum hot enough without causing warping. Originally, I didn't think this would have been an issue, as the HTS-2000's melting temperature is 500 degrees below that of the aluminum. Well, there's a big difference between melting point and the metal simply becoming more flexible as heat was applied. Not one to give up, I thought it might be a mounting and support issue. I tried several different methods, before ultimately deciding that maybe brazing wasn't the best course of action at the moment.
So what went wrong? It was really quite simple in the end. The area I was trying to braze was a relatively narrow piece of aluminum. It was a little over 16 mm in width. The torch was applying a lot of heat in small area, and with insufficient supporting material, it was softening the metal before getting hot enough to melt the rod. It's something that I didn't come across in all my practice, as I was using larger pieces of aluminum. There was more metal to dissipate the heat, prevent warping, and still allow the aluminum to reach the HTS-2000's melting temperature.
While I may not have been able to use the brazing technique in this particular instance, the method still has it's place. I'll definitely use it again in the future, under more ideal conditions.
Now that brazing is off the table, I fall back to good ol' JB Weld. It will still do an outstanding job, and that brings us to the following pics...
Up next will be the the finished cover, and then I'm back to case details...
I was having problems with getting the aluminum hot enough without causing warping. Originally, I didn't think this would have been an issue, as the HTS-2000's melting temperature is 500 degrees below that of the aluminum. Well, there's a big difference between melting point and the metal simply becoming more flexible as heat was applied. Not one to give up, I thought it might be a mounting and support issue. I tried several different methods, before ultimately deciding that maybe brazing wasn't the best course of action at the moment.
So what went wrong? It was really quite simple in the end. The area I was trying to braze was a relatively narrow piece of aluminum. It was a little over 16 mm in width. The torch was applying a lot of heat in small area, and with insufficient supporting material, it was softening the metal before getting hot enough to melt the rod. It's something that I didn't come across in all my practice, as I was using larger pieces of aluminum. There was more metal to dissipate the heat, prevent warping, and still allow the aluminum to reach the HTS-2000's melting temperature.
While I may not have been able to use the brazing technique in this particular instance, the method still has it's place. I'll definitely use it again in the future, under more ideal conditions.
Now that brazing is off the table, I fall back to good ol' JB Weld. It will still do an outstanding job, and that brings us to the following pics...
Up next will be the the finished cover, and then I'm back to case details...
lillimon04
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2006
- Messages
- 3,768
Any updates craig? This one is lookin great.
Right here!!
Finally, after a few delays, and a much busier than anticipated summer, I've got the case cover finished. It just needs a little finish sanding, and it's ready for primer and paint.
Here I've got the mesh marked out and ready for cutting. I always mark my cut lines with masking tape. It makes it much easier to see during cutting. It also makes it pretty easy to file straight after the cutting is done. I just file right up to the edge of the tape, pull it off, and then sand the edges.
After a little JB Weld, the mesh is in place.
Let's get it on the case!
With the case cover done, I'm moving on to the PSU extension...
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Thanks man! How's this for a quick update?
Of all the things I really like about the Qmicra case, there is one thing I don't... If you want to use a higher wattage power supply, you are limited to around 18 cm in length. Unfortunately, at that length, you run the risk of interference with any optical devices put in the bays. Well, that's exactly what has happened here. One quick fix would be to drop the drive to the lowest bay, but it's not an option I have with the radiator placed where it is. So, the decision was made to add an extension to the case.
Here is a quick idea of where the extension will be placed.
After a little bit of filing, I clamped the extension in place, and drilled the holes.
Once drilled, it will be held in place with socket cap screws.
With the extension done, I'll be moving on to the fan controller. Stay tuned!
Of all the things I really like about the Qmicra case, there is one thing I don't... If you want to use a higher wattage power supply, you are limited to around 18 cm in length. Unfortunately, at that length, you run the risk of interference with any optical devices put in the bays. Well, that's exactly what has happened here. One quick fix would be to drop the drive to the lowest bay, but it's not an option I have with the radiator placed where it is. So, the decision was made to add an extension to the case.
Here is a quick idea of where the extension will be placed.
After a little bit of filing, I clamped the extension in place, and drilled the holes.
Once drilled, it will be held in place with socket cap screws.
With the extension done, I'll be moving on to the fan controller. Stay tuned!
Wow, socket cap screws? That's a really good idea, it'd allow you to make the extension optional, so if using a shorter PSU there wouldn't be anything sticking out from the back of the case.
Amazing work.
Oh, and, next project you should mod a Shuttle. Me and probably many others here would love to see what you'd be able to do with one.
Amazing work.
Oh, and, next project you should mod a Shuttle. Me and probably many others here would love to see what you'd be able to do with one.
Thanks Mark! Very true, I try to use cap screws whenever possible or practical. I cringe at the thought of how much money I've spent on items like that alone over the years...
Looking great, considered doing a production run yet?
Thanks! If I produced these, I'd have to pick up the pace a little... I've been working on this case far too long.
Exactly. It can be swapped out if a shorter PSU needs to be used.
Speaking of Shuttles though... I had done a small faceplate mod to a SN25P a few years ago...
Thanks! If I produced these, I'd have to pick up the pace a little... I've been working on this case far too long.
Well you know what they say: the first time is always the most difficult
lillimon04
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2006
- Messages
- 3,768
If you produced these than everyone would have a sick sff size case. What you do with the rogue? Still your main system?
Well you know what they say: the first time is always the most difficult
That may be true. Although here I've just been completely distracted by other priorities.
I still have the Rogue, but it's a shadow of it's former self. The MSI motherboard died on me, and replacing it wasn't really viable. It was no longer under warranty, and I didn't want to pay for more last gen hardware. I wanted matx i7, and so I made new purchases for my next project. So, the Rogue sits semi-parted out...
lillimon04
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2006
- Messages
- 3,768
Any updates?
lillimon04
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2006
- Messages
- 3,768
Any updates craig?
Lol, I just realized how long it's been since my last real update... Sorry about that. I've been busy with my end of the summer activities. All the kids are back in school now, and I've been working on the case. It's just a matter of getting some pics uploaded to my site and writing the update. Thanks for the patience!
gwarren007
Fully [H]
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2006
- Messages
- 19,533
Cool, just was waiting, hoping it wasn't forgotten...
OT: Back to school in mid-August? So soon? That probably kills some beach time, no?
I remember back when I went to school my vacations spanned from something like mid-June to mid-September (except in high-school, which shortened it to July 1st to September 1st, and of course you could only have 2-month vacations in college if you passed all your exams in the June-July time frame)... Heck, even now my nephew's kindergarten is closed throughout August...
/OT: On other news, it's good to know you're still in the game. Your builds are always AMAZING.
Btw, just yesterday I built a cardboard-based case (short on cash, as usual, so my WHS machine had to get a case once and for all, I had been postponing for months...). I SO wish I had your skills (and tools, and sponsors - if you have any - and money... lol), every one of your build is memorable.
Keep it up!
Miguel
Nah, delayed, but never forgotten.
Yeah, they actually started the 13th! It definitely kills the summertime fun. It didn't even feel like a summer this year.
Lol, sometimes cardboard cases are some of the most awesome! I used to build things out of cardboard all of the time when I was a kid. Some of my best memories... Also, thanks for the compliments! I hope to do you proud!
Despite the delay in updating this log, work has been slow but continually progressing for this project. This is the first of many small updates that I've got backlogged, and will get posted as time allows.
After the last update, I began working on finishing the fan controller. Hutch wanted something simple, and out of the way. He prefers a clean look, and putting the the controller on the front of the case, wasn't something he was interested in. So, I looked for alternatives. One of the best places I found, was on the rear of the case. Being placed in the upper and side location like it is, still leaves it fairly accessible when needed. With the holes drilled, it was just a matter of finding an easy way to mount the controller.
Two more holes, and I was able to fasten the controller to the case with a pair of socket cap bolts. It really couldn't have been a much simpler solution...
Up next... pump mounting!
After the last update, I began working on finishing the fan controller. Hutch wanted something simple, and out of the way. He prefers a clean look, and putting the the controller on the front of the case, wasn't something he was interested in. So, I looked for alternatives. One of the best places I found, was on the rear of the case. Being placed in the upper and side location like it is, still leaves it fairly accessible when needed. With the holes drilled, it was just a matter of finding an easy way to mount the controller.
Two more holes, and I was able to fasten the controller to the case with a pair of socket cap bolts. It really couldn't have been a much simpler solution...
Up next... pump mounting!
as much as i love watching this case, i am also getting quite antsy now that ive seen your plans for OSIDIAS. so, with all due respect for a talented modder, please hurry up! keep up the awesome work craigbru.
Haha, no disrespect taken. I'm personally really antsy to begin OSIDIAS as well. It's consumed so much of my time designing, I can't wait to start!
Believe it or not, finding a location to mount the pump, was one of the most difficult decisions I had to make. I tried multiple locations, but none of them really felt right. It didn't help that the pump location was entirely dependent on where I was going to mount the hard drives. In fact, one of the biggest requirements for modding this case, was that I have room to hold four 3.5" hard drives. While that alone left me several options, not all of them were ideal. I had to be aware of airflow, ease of access, and aesthetics. Much thought was put in to a workable solution, and I'm happy to say that I've found one.
So, where does that leave the pump? Well, this case will only have one optical drive. That left the lower two drive bays empty. This provided the perfect spot to place a pump. In this location it will make for clean routing of the tubing, and thanks to a planned shroud over the center section of the case, invisible as well.
Here is the planned pump mounting location.
Next, I needed to slightly modify the existing slots to match the mounting holes.
All bolted up!
With the mount in place, it's obvious that I need to do a little more modification to provide clearance for the Bitspower fitting.
A little quick work with the dremel.
All mounted!
Up next, the hard drive mounts...
So, where does that leave the pump? Well, this case will only have one optical drive. That left the lower two drive bays empty. This provided the perfect spot to place a pump. In this location it will make for clean routing of the tubing, and thanks to a planned shroud over the center section of the case, invisible as well.
Here is the planned pump mounting location.
Next, I needed to slightly modify the existing slots to match the mounting holes.
All bolted up!
With the mount in place, it's obvious that I need to do a little more modification to provide clearance for the Bitspower fitting.
A little quick work with the dremel.
All mounted!
Up next, the hard drive mounts...
brandonwh64
Gawd
- Joined
- May 18, 2009
- Messages
- 934
Wow! this would be a great project!
Thanks man!