Project H20-Micro a Watercooled 3 Liter system with GTX970

[QinX]

Qinx, how much did you end up paying on the PCI riser? You said the software estimated something around €180. (Sorry if you reported the price somewhere, I was unable to find the actual value around this thread).

Also by this picture
http://static.tweakers.net/ext/f/GD5ftlk3zfxPVbPp4Em7ZqWE/full.jpg
is seems like you are using the 12V from the HDPlex (as you stated before), but you are using the ground from the mobo's PCIe. I was just wondering whether this might cause some ssort of bad circuitry somehow. Do you know if this configuration is safe?

All of the Grounds are connected, that is important to have. the 12V isn't the only thing supplied via the PCIe Slots, also 3.3V and 3.3Vaux, this needs ground planes.

The only problem I seem to be having is that the system sometimes doesn't show video, this might be because the HDPlex isn't powering up fast enough for the BIOS detection. I will have to look into it. the PCIe slot gives the Power Good signal, but the HDPlex is not ready yet I think

Pricing for 5 pieces cost me around €180 but 50 pieces would cost €388.17 so x2 price x10 volume.

 

[kooki]

The only problem I seem to be having is that the system sometimes doesn't show video, this might be because the HDPlex isn't powering up fast enough for the BIOS detection. I will have to look into it. the PCIe slot gives the Power Good signal, but the HDPlex is not ready yet I think

I didn't even consider something liek that might occur. Were you having this issue without the Add2PSU? Looking forward to see how you work around this issue! Good luck

 

[QinX]

I didn't even consider something liek that might occur. Were you having this issue without the Add2PSU? Looking forward to see how you work around this issue! Good luck

I think the problems is that I'm using a fan header to switch the MOSFET. Might be a delay between starting the motherboard and having the fan header be active. I should try to use the onboard SATA connection to see if that solves it.

 

[EdZ]

According to the ATX PSU specs, there must be at minimum a 100ms window (spec defines 100ms to 500ms) between +5VDC and +3.3VDC going high, and PWR_OK going high. If you trigger off of either +5VDC or +3.3VDC, and the HDPLEX can get up to 12V within 100ms, then that should solve the powerup issue. It might be best to tap this from the PSU rather than from the motherboard, in case the motherboard is adding some delay before activating outputs that would cut into the window time.

::EDIT:: T3 is the relevant time here:

 

[QinX]

According to the ATX PSU specs, there must be at minimum a 100ms window (spec defines 100ms to 500ms) between +5VDC and +3.3VDC going high, and PWR_OK going high. If you trigger off of either +5VDC or +3.3VDC, and the HDPLEX can get up to 12V within 100ms, then that should solve the powerup issue. It might be best to tap this from the PSU rather than from the motherboard, in case the motherboard is adding some delay before activating outputs that would cut into the window time.

::EDIT:: T3 is the relevant time here:

I've found the same information.
I can't use the PSU because it is 19V and always on, so I think my best bet is going to be +5V from the onboard SATA power connector.

 

[EdZ]

Whoops, forgot the board had it's own built-in PSU, not a PicoPSU. The Q87T looks like it might expose the internal 5V line on a couple of headers. But I have no idea if it internally conforms to ATX spec (because technically it;s not an ATX PSU) or has some other weirdness that delays the output of external 5V

 

[QinX]

Whoops, forgot the board had it's own built-in PSU, not a PicoPSU. The Q87T looks like it might expose the internal 5V line on a couple of headers. But I have no idea if it internally conforms to ATX spec (because technically it;s not an ATX PSU) or has some other weirdness that delays the output of external 5V

+5VSB is probably a Standby Voltage, so it might stay powered even if the system is in standby or even if it is off.

Best chance I have I think is the +5VDC of the SATA Connector.
But, I actually might have another idea that I'm trying to figure out.

 

[iFreilicht]

Oh if +5VSB is actually that, you could make a power LED on the front that "breathes" when the PC is in standby like Macs have one. That would be so damn cool!

 

[QinX]

Oh if +5VSB is actually that, you could make a power LED on the front that "breathes" when the PC is in standby like Macs have one. That would be so damn cool!

You voted no front I/O no take-backsies

But that is a nice idea, will consider it, but not everyone would appreciate it.

 

[QinX]

Hey all, just a quick Easter update!

Please read until the end, I need your opinions on something

I’m still working out the costs of the DIY kit, still figuring out ways to reduce costs.

In the mean time I received the anodised cases back and I transplanted the entire system over to it.
Here are some quick snapshots

Photo of the Front


Photo of the back


Photo of my attempt at a closeup to show the finish.


I personally really love the finish I’ve gone for, it’s not quite the silver finish that you find on most cases it has a little more grey mixed it.

Now as for progress on the DIY kit.

I’ve mentioned before that I am considering to support the Gigabyte GA-H81-TN over the original ASUS Q87T I used in my build. My reasoning is that besides the lack of 1 Ethernet port, who needs 2 anyway? And 2 of the 4 USB ports being 2.0 there is not a whole lot of difference between the boards.

Did I mention it costs almost half of the Q87T?

They both have
mSATA
Half-length mini-PCIe
PCIe 3.0 4x
4790K support
16GB SODIMM support
2 Fan header

You could even argue the GA-H81-TN has better thermals because the heatsink on the PCH is bigger.

Here is a side-by-side

Photo of Top of Motherboards


Photo of Motherboard I/O


Would you guys be okay with the GA-H81-TN?

Next is the thing I am very eager to hear you opinions about.
So right now I am running on a 20V 350W Gigantic external brick. I think it is bulky and you all should feel the same .

Recently ASUS has released the ASUS ROG G20 and it has 2 external bricks. Why? Most likely 2 smaller bricks are cheaper than 1 big brick. They made a bracket to hold them.

I want to switch to a 2 brick design for 2 reasons.
Reason 1: Costs, by going for 2 seperate bricks I can reduce the costs of these bricks
Supply and demand is the cause of this. More manufacturers and consumers buy lower power AC adapters so more manufacturers make them and prices go down because of that.

Reason 2: Space/Cost I can probably cut the HD-Plex 250W DC-DC board by going this route. I can use a power brick that supplies 12V to the GPU, thus giving me the option to make the system more versatile, maybe I can squeeze in a 2,5” or at least a 1,8” drive mount, allowing some form of HDD storage besides the mSATA drive. Also the DC board is expensive for what is does in this system, it is a glorified 20V to 12V adapter, so why not go from 230/115VAC to 12VDC directly?

PS: I will make sure I have a nice bracket to discretly mount the 2 power bricks.

Please let me know what you guys think about this.
I’ve made a strawpoll, but if you feel the need to voice your opinion please do.
http://strawpoll.me/4032713

That is all for now have a nice Easter if you celebrate!

 

[CknSalad]

Hey QinX, do you mean the GA-H87-TN? I can't seem to find the GA-H81-TN in stock anywhere (in the US). What would be the power (wattage) for each of the 2 power bricks? Also, how much money would we save by going this route? What's the probability that you can just use the two power bricks and cut the power DC board?

If all these questions are addressed, I would probably opt for the 2 power brick solution as there are probably more options vs. high-wattage power brick (only two choices: Dell 330w and HP Omen 350w). The only other question I have is the gpu support and hole cutout (different gpus have different ports). I'm okay with the Gigabyte board as long as the bios allows some fan profile speeds (could use 3rd party fan speed app instead?) and can lower the voltage for the cpu.

Once again, thanks for all the hard work. This project is almost making me reconsider whether or not I want to get the Dondan A4. Maybe I can do both, depending on your final price!

 

[QinX]

Hey QinX, do you mean the GA-H87-TN? I can't seem to find the GA-H81-TN in stock anywhere (in the US). What would be the power (wattage) for each of the 2 power bricks? Also, how much money would we save by going this route? What's the probability that you can just use the two power bricks and cut the power DC board?

If all these questions are addressed, I would probably opt for the 2 power brick solution as there are probably more options vs. high-wattage power brick (only two choices: Dell 330w and HP Omen 350w). The only other question I have is the gpu support and hole cutout (different gpus have different ports). I'm okay with the Gigabyte board as long as the bios allows some fan profile speeds (could use 3rd party fan speed app instead?) and can lower the voltage for the cpu.

Once again, thanks for all the hard work. This project is almost making me reconsider whether or not I want to get the Dondan A4. Maybe I can do both, depending on your final price!

No I actually mean the GA-H81-TN, but looking at the pictures of the 2 either of them fit, so \o/ for multiboard compatibility!
I will have to actually test and find out, but I would expect 150W for the motherboard and CPU and 200W for the GPU.
the 350W brick I can get for around 70USD, but stock is limited so who knows in a couple of months from now and the DC board I imagine I might be able to get for 60USD. So replacing those by 2 25USD bricks makes quite the difference.
I think that the probability of success is very high.

GPU support is limited to only 1 SKU, Nvidia GTX970 Reference design with Single Slot I/O
They can be recognized by the I/O, they all have
3x mini DP
1x mini HDMI
1x DVI-I

Manufacturers that I know of are:
Palit GeForce GTX 970 4GB
Palit GeForce GTX 970 4GB JetStream
Gainward GeForce GTX 970 4GB
Gainward GeForce GTX 970 4GB Phantom
PNY GeForce GTX 970 4GB

Until I'm absolutely positive I have a accurate price I won't say anything.
Dondan has made a beautiful case, that is a fact, but we focus on different aspects.
the A4 is meant to be small and support a board selection of components.
H2O-Micro is meant to be extremely small by have a very limited selection of components.

 

[rawrr]

The two brick idea is cool, but I still personally prefer one brick.

Although it may be cheaper (maybe not since you need to buy two), the two-brick solution requires two power sockets (not deal-breaking but not ideal), and actually seems a lot bulkier. I know you are using the HP Voodoo brick, but the Dell 330W is a known choice for its power (look at dondan's prototype), and is more streamlined than the HP offering.

However I do recognize that two bricks may be ideal due to reason 2, as suitable 12V bricks could be found for this purpose.

Also I am interested in how Asus managed power inside the system. Custom power board maybe?

 

[qwerkus]

Thank you for the update, interesting stuff.

1. +1 for the Gigabyte card. USB 2.0 is great for alternative boot (I'd put a dual boot linux/bsd anyway) that do not have usb 3.0 support, although nowadays it's mostly irrelevant. Kb/Mouse will fill those nicely! Although I must confess I'd miss the 2nd LAN port, as I would very likely turn this little beast into a server at night.

2. Two bricks is great. I was going to suggest something similar, but thought a minimalist like yourself is never going to go for it! I'd get two cheap open frame adapters (quick ebay search) and put them into a custom case (maybe your supplier will give you a deal). This way you could even add a fan, and perhaps have only one cord. Even better would be integrating those bricks into the h2o case, but this would mean another 0.5L at least which would be better filled by a flex atx psu, like the quiet one from FSP.

3. 12V is fine. I'm OCing a 3258G to 4.4Ghz on a 120W 12V power brick. You'll still need a way to combine and balance your two power sources and thus some sort of dc board, or to you simply plan on pluggin one onto the mobo, and one directly to the gfx ? Also, the GA site mentions an "Broad input voltage from 12V to 19V" but the manual only mentions 19V. Perhaps you should contact GA first to get exact details of the integrated power adapter.

EDIT: After some googling, I figured a single open frame 12V adapter would perhaps be the best option. Like this one or this one. Since as you pointed it out you already have a 3.3, 5 and 7V converted integrated into the mobo, all you need is a reliable 12V psu. By integrating it into the case, you benefit from the aluminium thermal conductivity, and could even add a small fan. These guys seem to have good 12V dc adapters

 

[rawrr]

EDIT: After some googling, I figured a single open frame 12V adapter would perhaps be the best option. Like this one or this one. Since as you pointed it out you already have a 3.3, 5 and 7V converted integrated into the mobo, all you need is a reliable 12V psu. By integrating it into the case, you benefit from the aluminium thermal conductivity, and could even add a small fan. These guys seem to have good 12V dc adapters

Haha, I too had spent a lot of time researching 12V AC adapters too. It seems that the higher amperage ones tend to be aimed at industrial and medical sectors. They're available at places like Farnell, but come with a hefty price. I concluded that the best widely available brick was the dell da-2, which is rated at about 210W. However you'll need to mod the connector in most cases.

 

[qwerkus]

Haha, I too had spent a lot of time researching 12V AC adapters too. It seems that the higher amperage ones tend to be aimed at industrial and medical sectors. They're available at places like Farnell, but come with a hefty price. I concluded that the best widely available brick was the dell da-2, which is rated at about 210W. However you'll need to mod the connector in most cases.

On aliexpress, you can find 300-350W open frame 12V adapter for $18. I still think the best comination is thin mini itx + 12V dc adapter. Yes, cable/connector modding will be required, though if he has enough orders, meanwell could do this for free.

 

[QinX]

The two brick idea is cool, but I still personally prefer one brick.

Although it may be cheaper (maybe not since you need to buy two), the two-brick solution requires two power sockets (not deal-breaking but not ideal), and actually seems a lot bulkier. I know you are using the HP Voodoo brick, but the Dell 330W is a known choice for its power (look at dondan's prototype), and is more streamlined than the HP offering.

However I do recognize that two bricks may be ideal due to reason 2, as suitable 12V bricks could be found for this purpose.

Also I am interested in how Asus managed power inside the system. Custom power board maybe?

In the end the solution that will be part of the kit will need to be cost effective and easy to use. I understand that from the looks a dual AC adapter will be bulkier, but the savings in costs will allow me to spend a little more on a nice mounting system and cable to use with it. Some of the ideas below are really interesting and I will look into them.

Thank you for the update, interesting stuff.

1. +1 for the Gigabyte card. USB 2.0 is great for alternative boot (I'd put a dual boot linux/bsd anyway) that do not have usb 3.0 support, although nowadays it's mostly irrelevant. Kb/Mouse will fill those nicely! Although I must confess I'd miss the 2nd LAN port, as I would very likely turn this little beast into a server at night.

2. Two bricks is great. I was going to suggest something similar, but thought a minimalist like yourself is never going to go for it! I'd get two cheap open frame adapters (quick ebay search) and put them into a custom case (maybe your supplier will give you a deal). This way you could even add a fan, and perhaps have only one cord. Even better would be integrating those bricks into the h2o case, but this would mean another 0.5L at least which would be better filled by a flex atx psu, like the quiet one from FSP.

3. 12V is fine. I'm OCing a 3258G to 4.4Ghz on a 120W 12V power brick. You'll still need a way to combine and balance your two power sources and thus some sort of dc board, or to you simply plan on pluggin one onto the mobo, and one directly to the gfx ? Also, the GA site mentions an "Broad input voltage from 12V to 19V" but the manual only mentions 19V. Perhaps you should contact GA first to get exact details of the integrated power adapter.

EDIT: After some googling, I figured a single open frame 12V adapter would perhaps be the best option. Like this one or this one. Since as you pointed it out you already have a 3.3, 5 and 7V converted integrated into the mobo, all you need is a reliable 12V psu. By integrating it into the case, you benefit from the aluminium thermal conductivity, and could even add a small fan. These guys seem to have good 12V dc adapters

With the added space available on the GA-H81-TN I might be able to add 2 USB 2.0 ports extra and well with regards to the extra NIC, I can't please everyone. perhaps in the future multiple rear I/O options could be available but no promises.

The 2 brick solutions should save a lot of costs and I will spend some of the savings on making a proper solution.
Also thanks for the links, I've worked with Meanwell before through my regular job, but we are talking about 1000Watt and even their 3000W solutions.

Haha, I too had spent a lot of time researching 12V AC adapters too. It seems that the higher amperage ones tend to be aimed at industrial and medical sectors. They're available at places like Farnell, but come with a hefty price. I concluded that the best widely available brick was the dell da-2, which is rated at about 210W. However you'll need to mod the connector in most cases.

On aliexpress, you can find 300-350W open frame 12V adapter for $18. I still think the best comination is thin mini itx + 12V dc adapter. Yes, cable/connector modding will be required, though if he has enough orders, meanwell could do this for free.

I think the 2 brick or if possible 1 brick 12V solution is going to be the best. I will contact Gigabyte for confirmation about the wide input voltage.

also With regards to supported motherboard it seems Gigabytes lineup of Thin M-ITX boards are similar in layout
GA-H81TN, GA-B85TN and GA-H87TN have the same rear I/O layout, although the H87 has USB 3.0 for all the ports.

The GA-Q87TN only has a extra NIC port. So in theory I can make 1 I/O Plate for all 4 of these boards, Go Gigabyte for a great layout!

 

[SeaJay]

I haven't been following too closely so apologies if I'm not the first to ask, but have you considered doing a version with flush end-plates and rubber feet? It would no longer be able to stand up nicely, but it'd be much easier to slip into a bag for carrying around.

 

[kooki]

So, Quinx, have you changed the configuration to utilize the 5V from the mobo? Has it solved the issue with the GPU not turning itself on fast enough?

Also, is this issue also present when you put the pc to sleep/hibernate?

Btw, eventhough it's not stated on the manual, it's written in the product page that the Gigabyte board does support 12V-19V input (at the Overview tab as "Wide Range Voltage Input").

 

[iFreilicht]

Btw, eventhough it's not stated on the manual, it's written in the product page that the Gigabyte board does support 12V-19V input (at the Overview tab as "Wide Range Voltage Input").

I have tested that and it's true. The unit I got runs stable from about 11V-20.5V, so there's that. Didn't even see that information on the product page, I saw it only in a press release for the boards.

 

[QinX]

I haven't been following too closely so apologies if I'm not the first to ask, but have you considered doing a version with flush end-plates and rubber feet? It would no longer be able to stand up nicely, but it'd be much easier to slip into a bag for carrying around.

The design has not been set in stone, I do want to retain the standing version, the portrusions aren't that bad, but I'd like to make them a little smaller.

So, Quinx, have you changed the configuration to utilize the 5V from the mobo? Has it solved the issue with the GPU not turning itself on fast enough?

Also, is this issue also present when you put the pc to sleep/hibernate?

Btw, eventhough it's not stated on the manual, it's written in the product page that the Gigabyte board does support 12V-19V input (at the Overview tab as "Wide Range Voltage Input").

I haven't tested it with the 5V, however one thing I did notice was that if I take of the power completely for a couple of seconds, so physically disconnect it, and then start it ALWAYS boots up. So it seems there might be some weird stuff going on with some capacitors maybe.

Haven't really had the time to look into it in depth. I've tried to hibernate the system once and it didn't boot back from that, at least the video didn't. The problem there might be that I connected the 3.3Vaux for standby to the same rail as the 3.3V so it doesn't actually have 3.3V standby power.

I have tested that and it's true. The unit I got runs stable from about 11V-20.5V, so there's that. Didn't even see that information on the product page, I saw it only in a press release for the boards.

Ok so you have one of these boards and can confirm they can run on 12V? Great!

One of the things I have to do when going with a direct 12V feed into the GPU is have some kind of voltage check. you would think that at some point the GPU will die if too much voltage is applied to it, so I rather spend a couple of bucks to keep the GPU safe, so I will look into voltage protection for the GPU.
This should protect the GPU from either a faulty PSU or a faulty user

 

[EdZ]

How about having the faceplates themselves flush, and having the 'stands' as separate parts (i.e. same outside shape as currently, but with a faceplate-sized hole in the middle) that slide over the chassis. It seems a real shame to compact the machine into such a small volume, then nearly double it's bounding-box volume (important when placing next to other devices or carrying in a case) with stands and empty space.

 

[Lakai129]

I have to agree with the case criticism. A lay flat design with flush edges would be a lot more appealing. I actually prefer your lay flat stand but even that design bugs me that the front and back are not flush.

 

[iFreilicht]

have one of these boards and can confirm they can run on 12V? Great!

One of the things I have to do when going with a direct 12V feed into the GPU is have some kind of voltage check. you would think that at some point the GPU will die if too much voltage is applied to it, so I rather spend a couple of bucks to keep the GPU safe, so I will look into voltage protection for the GPU.
This should protect the GPU from either a faulty PSU or a faulty user

Oh I didn't even think about that, but you are right, the GPU could potentially die when the user plugged in a 19V brick.

 

[Logan321]

I second the alternate stand opinion. Maybe something that either screws on the bottom or the side of the case? Could be as simple as a pair of L brackets, maybe 1" by 1/2", the depth of the case, and a couple tapped holes with thumbscrews. That way you could invert them for travelling and reduce volume.

Fantastic build though, really impressive work.

 

[SeaJay]

How about having the faceplates themselves flush, and having the 'stands' as separate parts (i.e. same outside shape as currently, but with a faceplate-sized hole in the middle) that slide over the chassis. It seems a real shame to compact the machine into such a small volume, then nearly double it's bounding-box volume (important when placing next to other devices or carrying in a case) with stands and empty space.

I really like this idea.

 

[QinX]

I hear your concerns with the added volume with the front and back not being flush. Now I do personally like that design, now to each their own in terms of taste.

Of course some people will want to take the system in a travel bag, that is part of the appeal of such a small case. But because I don't have an inner frame I want to try and keep the amount of screws you can see as a low as possible, so for me have attachable stands is a no-go.

I could make it flush, but the fit will have to be perfect, or else you will see that it is not perfectly flush. Will have to look into this with my sheet metal manufacturer.

Here is a quick WiP I made:

 

[Logan321]

Excuse my terrible paint addiction. Here's the idea I was trying to convey, hopefully it makes more sense. It's yours to use or not, as you choose.

 

[Ca11idus]

For the ASUS ROG dual power brick situation, one brick is for the system and the other is for the upgraded gpu.

Lurker dropping by to say that the case looks amazing.

 

[QinX]

Excuse my terrible paint addiction. Here's the idea I was trying to convey, hopefully it makes more sense. It's yours to use or not, as you choose.

I understand the idea, but I dislike the screw holes that are visible on the stand you are not using. Also the size of the protrusions as seen in the render above are so small that they shouldn't bother anyone.

For the ASUS ROG dual power brick situation, one brick is for the system and the other is for the upgraded gpu.

Lurker dropping by to say that the case looks amazing.

That is likely the case.
the 180W is for the system AND the PCIe slot, because a GTX780 has a TDP of 250W, more then the 230W that the other brick can deliver. but it has 6+8 connectivity so 75+150=225W can be drawn through the 230W brick, they probably have some kind of current limit internally to prevent the 230W brick from going over its limit and draw the rest through the PCIe slot.

 

[jrobdog]

really love the look of the case. Thanks for sharing and keep us posted.

 

[Lakai129]

That lay flat case above looks great.

 

[qwerkus]

Here is a quick WiP I made:

I like this one too - but honestly, I couldn't care less about the exterior looks. Just make it sturdy and kids-proof. With your watercooled-fully-stuffed-no-hollow-room-left-design, it seems actually possible, and would definitely beat all other devices currently on the market. Keeping screws to a minimum is also a very sound design choice: +1.

 

[iFreilicht]

I like this one too - but honestly, I couldn't care less about the exterior looks. Just make it sturdy and kids-proof. With your watercooled-fully-stuffed-no-hollow-room-left-design, it seems actually possible, and would definitely beat all other devices currently on the market. Keeping screws to a minimum is also a very sound design choice: +1.

What do you mean by kids-proof? Design it so kids can't open it? Or break it?

 

[qwerkus]

What do you mean by kids-proof? Design it so kids can't open it? Or break it?

CAN'T break it. Basically, it would be nice if the device could sustain a fall of about 80cm. Besides the ouya, all gaming devices nowadays I know about are way to sensitive. Where is the SNES you could throw against the wall ?

 

[QinX]

CAN'T break it. Basically, it would be nice if the device could sustain a fall of about 80cm. Besides the ouya, all gaming devices nowadays I know about are way to sensitive. Where is the SNES you could throw against the wall ?

It is made out of 2mm Aluminum and the Radiator/Fans are used screwed between the top and bottom, I should be really sturdy. But I'm not going to trying my luck right now

 

[QinX]

I've been getting more and more question about the final price for the kit, so I guess I'll go ahead and release an estimate.

I'm still waiting on some small bits and pieces for final pricing, but the biggest wait is still the case. Also some other parts I haven't been able to calculate yet, because I still have to design them, such as the GPU power board.
If I'd have to give an estimate I would say somewhere between €350 and €450 would be end user pricing.

It will be an expensive kit, I realize that, but I think the pricing is justified looking at what the market has to offer and what you actually get.
What do you actually get for that kind of money?

Preliminary Box of Contents
1x 2mm anodized Aluminum Chassis(With Horizontal and Vertical brackets)
1x Dual 92mm Radiator
2x 92*92*15mm Fans
1x Copper/Acetal Socket 1150 CPU Waterblock
1x Copper/Acetal GTX970 GPU Waterblock
1x Acetal Reservoir
1x 12VDC Pump
1x 12VDC 180W AC Adapter for GPU
1x 19VDC 120W AC Adapter for System(CPU, Motherboard etc.)
1x AC Adapter mounting bracket
1x GPU Power Board
Miscellaneous accessories (Fittings, Tubing, Screws, Allen keys, Manual and all other things needed to build a system)

What else do you need to buy to build a working system?

Shopping list:
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H81TN, GA-B85TN, GA-H87TN, GA-Q87TN
CPU: Any S1150 Haswell CPU up to the i7-4790K
DRAM: SODIMM DDR3 or DDR3L, up to 16GB
SSD: Any mSATA SSD
GPU: GTX970 with short PCB and Single Slot I/O


Here in the Netherlands I can build the following system including the kit for around €1550:
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690 Boxed
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85TN
GPU: Gainward GeForce GTX 970 4GB
RAM: Kingston KVR16S11K2/16 (2x8GB)
SSD: Crucial M550 mSATA 512GB
Wifi: Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 Plus Bluetooth
OS: Windows 8.1 64-Bit OEM

 

[rawrr]

I think you'll need a beefier power adapter for the 970. IIRC, on a forum specializing in eGPUs (Techinferno i think), someone found that the Dell DA-2 - around 210W - was not able to sustain the 970's heavily fluctuating power consumption.

 

[SaperPL]

I'm just curious, but how do you want to manage warranty on all these parts? While I get that it's awesome to just buy a complete kit and put your cpu and gpu inside but what happens when someone who bought the case lives abroad?

I understand that if you're going to buy larger quantities of those parts the whole kit build will be cheaper than if everyone was going to buy those themselves but still I wouldn't like to forward each faulty item from end user to manufacturer.

 

[QinX]

I think you'll need a beefier power adapter for the 970. IIRC, on a forum specializing in eGPUs (Techinferno i think), someone found that the Dell DA-2 - around 210W - was not able to sustain the 970's heavily fluctuating power consumption.

I know of the way the GTX970 can pull power, that is one of the things I will test with the 12VDC adapters to see if it is sufficient. But there is a big difference between GTX970 reference and AIB designs, the normal GTX970 stays within it's TDP power, with short burst above it, but AIB design tend to just consume a lot more then the reference design. Right now I have Furmark running and the system at the wall pulls 230W, but this is including the CPU and all other components. I will go ahead and browse the Techinferno forums, seems like they have some good info.

Are you referencing to this topic? http://forum.techinferno.com/enclosures-adapters/9426-220w-dell-da-2-ac-adapter-discussion.html
He's running a AIB designed GTX970, reference version pulls less.

I'm just curious, but how do you want to manage warranty on all these parts? While I get that it's awesome to just buy a complete kit and put your cpu and gpu inside but what happens when someone who bought the case lives abroad?

I understand that if you're going to buy larger quantities of those parts the whole kit build will be cheaper than if everyone was going to buy those themselves but still I wouldn't like to forward each faulty item from end user to manufacturer.

Most parts are custom made for this product, as such warranty will be handle by me. parts like the AC adapter I will just replace with a new one myself. But don't most smaller companies have this problem? I have a meeting planned with someone to educate me more on doing international business, I will bring this onto the table as well.