zoidberg3001
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2005
- Messages
- 148
Hey Top Nurse Looking great so far.
Looking forward to seeing some updates
Looking forward to seeing some updates
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Project: Feeding Frenzy
- Thread starter Top Nurse
- Start date
- Status
Top Nurse said:Had a chance to drop by the city tow yards today to say good-bye to my car as it appears to be totalled. With all the frame damage I really don't want it back. Saw the scene of the crime today and there really was 186 feet of skid marks before I got hit.
Anybody got any modding ideas for these pics?
hey i see a bagged s10 xtream behind your truck... sorry for the bs post but im in to custon trucks as well as computers
Bio-Hazard
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2004
- Messages
- 2,312
Heater cores in general make great radiators..............
D
Deleted member 89137
Guest
Forget about the car, it's a POS chevy...
ShoNuff said:Heeeeeey!!! No updates in 2006? What are you doing? You must focus and not be distracted by work and stuff like that.
Okay okay! FF will have an update in less than 24 hours. I currently modding the crap out of my AC electronics.
GoFastNova
n00b
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2005
- Messages
- 62
did i miss something? has this log become a super secret black project because of some reason like the ac ryan mod contest? or are you just sitting around waiting for the m2? whats going on here? i think i missed something, but im not sure
Okay it is Feeding Frenzy time again
Today I have made some changes to the way the Aquaero looks and works as well as adding a Multiswitch to the Aquaero. So on with the mod. This first couple of pics shows the standard Aquaero and the way I left my Aquaero a while back.
AC stock photo showing front panel. My display is a VFD.
One of the things that has always really irked me about my Aquaero is that the buttons flop around a lot and contribute to a lack of definitive tactile feedback when using it. Here is the way I last left my Aquaero after adding two Aquastream controllers to it.
I'm not going to bore you with how to take an Aquaero apart because if you can't figure it out you definitely don't want to do this mod. These pic's show the Aquaero with the VFD display and mounting hardware removed.
And here is the area that needs fixing. Those three switches and the corresponding metal buttons that move them.
So here is just the Aquaero main board with the metal buttons sitting on the switches.
There is a couple of different ways to fix this. You could add washers to the metal buttons so the buttons don't move as much or you can do as I have done and modded the unit so they don't move with the added benefit of getting a flush button on the front of the Aquaero faceplate. If you want to do what I have done then you will need to partially disassemble these three switches from the board.
You will also need to go buy some 1/2" heat shrink. You want the stuff that has the meltable glue inside.
When you get the black switch top off if you weren't careful you will have something that looks like this with three small parts rolling around on the table. No problem as I will show you how it all goes back together later on.
So the first thing to do is to cut a small piece of the heatshring off. The idea here is to bond the metal button to the top part of the switch that you just removed. You could also use epoxy or instant glue, but my way makes for somewhat easier disassembly should you choose to want to return it to stock condition. You want to have enough to give a secure connection, but not so much as to cover up the bottom of the switch top or you might have difficulty reassembling it later. The best way to shrink the tubing is to use a heat shrink gun. While I have never tried it I suppose a high wattage hair dryer might work as well. The really ghetto way is to use a BIC or a match.
The first thing that goes in is the rectangular looking part that is slightly concave. It only will fit in one way, but make sure that the concave surface is as you see it. IOW, you are looking at the concave surface.
Next in goes the round disk.
The last part is the spring that resides on the plastic pin.
Now you are ready to reassemble the switch. Please note that the switch top (black) and the switch bottom (blue) have one side that is flat. Make sure you line this up correctly on reassembly or the switch will not work properly.
Here is one of the completed buttons back on the Aquaero mainboard.
Here is all three of them ready to roll.
Now is the time to reassemble the Aquaero and add the Multiswitch. The first thing to do is to put back on the Aquastream controllers. If you don't have any then you can shorten up this assembly considerably.
Here are the parts you will need to do the rest of this mod. They are all obtainable from McMaster-Carr in the standoff section of the catalog. I ditched all the metric hardware and reassembled my Aquaero with inch sizes, but depending on your circumstances and where you live you might want to do something different. The standoff's I used are for the most part 6-32 thread size and 3/16" wide. As you can see you will need some 1" and 1/2" standoff's. These are the ones with female on one end and male on the other end.
The first thing you will want to do is to make up four of these assemblies using your 1" long standoff's.
The 1/2" standoff's closest to the three buttons are fitted to the Aquaero mainboard with 6-32 buttonhead socket cap screws (sorry no pic). The side farthest from the buttons are secured with the 3" long assemblies you already made. You want them tight, but not so tight that they will damage the circuit boards.
The next step is to fit the display board on to the assembly you just finished. Be careful here as the display is easy to damage and costs like $60 USD to replace.
These are the parts that will be used to finish up this mod. If your paying attention you will notice that the double female standoff's are 1/4" wide. I couldn't find any 3/16" ones so I used some 1/4" wide ones I had hanging around. They are 3/8" and 1/4" long respectively. BTW, this mod will not work if you use 1/4" wide all the way through so be forewarned.
You will use the 3/8" long ones to secure the display board as seen on the left side of this pic. The 1/4" long ones will be used to secure the display on the right side of this pic.
Now you will use the two remaining 3" long assemblies and the two of the male-female 1/2" long standoff's to provide the Multiswitch mount and to start to finish the Aquaero faceplate mount.
Now here is the tricky part of this mod. You have to figure out a way to account for the display circuit board thickness otherwise the faceplate will not fit on properly. I used a couple of # 6 nylon flat washers to approximate the thickness of the board as seen below.
And here you see the double female 3/8" long standoff's attached.
Here is the back side ready for the Multiswitch.
Here is the Multiswitch mounted and ready to install along with the ubiquitous buttonhead socket cap screws.
And here is the final results:
Today I have made some changes to the way the Aquaero looks and works as well as adding a Multiswitch to the Aquaero. So on with the mod. This first couple of pics shows the standard Aquaero and the way I left my Aquaero a while back.
AC stock photo showing front panel. My display is a VFD.
One of the things that has always really irked me about my Aquaero is that the buttons flop around a lot and contribute to a lack of definitive tactile feedback when using it. Here is the way I last left my Aquaero after adding two Aquastream controllers to it.
I'm not going to bore you with how to take an Aquaero apart because if you can't figure it out you definitely don't want to do this mod. These pic's show the Aquaero with the VFD display and mounting hardware removed.
And here is the area that needs fixing. Those three switches and the corresponding metal buttons that move them.
So here is just the Aquaero main board with the metal buttons sitting on the switches.
There is a couple of different ways to fix this. You could add washers to the metal buttons so the buttons don't move as much or you can do as I have done and modded the unit so they don't move with the added benefit of getting a flush button on the front of the Aquaero faceplate. If you want to do what I have done then you will need to partially disassemble these three switches from the board.
You will also need to go buy some 1/2" heat shrink. You want the stuff that has the meltable glue inside.
When you get the black switch top off if you weren't careful you will have something that looks like this with three small parts rolling around on the table. No problem as I will show you how it all goes back together later on.
So the first thing to do is to cut a small piece of the heatshring off. The idea here is to bond the metal button to the top part of the switch that you just removed. You could also use epoxy or instant glue, but my way makes for somewhat easier disassembly should you choose to want to return it to stock condition. You want to have enough to give a secure connection, but not so much as to cover up the bottom of the switch top or you might have difficulty reassembling it later. The best way to shrink the tubing is to use a heat shrink gun. While I have never tried it I suppose a high wattage hair dryer might work as well. The really ghetto way is to use a BIC or a match.
The first thing that goes in is the rectangular looking part that is slightly concave. It only will fit in one way, but make sure that the concave surface is as you see it. IOW, you are looking at the concave surface.
Next in goes the round disk.
The last part is the spring that resides on the plastic pin.
Now you are ready to reassemble the switch. Please note that the switch top (black) and the switch bottom (blue) have one side that is flat. Make sure you line this up correctly on reassembly or the switch will not work properly.
Here is one of the completed buttons back on the Aquaero mainboard.
Here is all three of them ready to roll.
Now is the time to reassemble the Aquaero and add the Multiswitch. The first thing to do is to put back on the Aquastream controllers. If you don't have any then you can shorten up this assembly considerably.
Here are the parts you will need to do the rest of this mod. They are all obtainable from McMaster-Carr in the standoff section of the catalog. I ditched all the metric hardware and reassembled my Aquaero with inch sizes, but depending on your circumstances and where you live you might want to do something different. The standoff's I used are for the most part 6-32 thread size and 3/16" wide. As you can see you will need some 1" and 1/2" standoff's. These are the ones with female on one end and male on the other end.
The first thing you will want to do is to make up four of these assemblies using your 1" long standoff's.
The 1/2" standoff's closest to the three buttons are fitted to the Aquaero mainboard with 6-32 buttonhead socket cap screws (sorry no pic). The side farthest from the buttons are secured with the 3" long assemblies you already made. You want them tight, but not so tight that they will damage the circuit boards.
The next step is to fit the display board on to the assembly you just finished. Be careful here as the display is easy to damage and costs like $60 USD to replace.
These are the parts that will be used to finish up this mod. If your paying attention you will notice that the double female standoff's are 1/4" wide. I couldn't find any 3/16" ones so I used some 1/4" wide ones I had hanging around. They are 3/8" and 1/4" long respectively. BTW, this mod will not work if you use 1/4" wide all the way through so be forewarned.
You will use the 3/8" long ones to secure the display board as seen on the left side of this pic. The 1/4" long ones will be used to secure the display on the right side of this pic.
Now you will use the two remaining 3" long assemblies and the two of the male-female 1/2" long standoff's to provide the Multiswitch mount and to start to finish the Aquaero faceplate mount.
Now here is the tricky part of this mod. You have to figure out a way to account for the display circuit board thickness otherwise the faceplate will not fit on properly. I used a couple of # 6 nylon flat washers to approximate the thickness of the board as seen below.
And here you see the double female 3/8" long standoff's attached.
Here is the back side ready for the Multiswitch.
Here is the Multiswitch mounted and ready to install along with the ubiquitous buttonhead socket cap screws.
And here is the final results:
Time for a little fun and games for my fellow AC enthusiasts.
The Great AC Multi-Tool Contest. I'm expecting great things from this bunch.
The Great AC Multi-Tool Contest. I'm expecting great things from this bunch.
heh i want the tool but only to open my heinekens with and to go together with my opterOWN IHS
ps: i wanna see a pic of hte VFD on, cuz so far the only pics ive seen of the green vfd is from the AC site, i want some real world pics! do it TN please!
ps: i wanna see a pic of hte VFD on, cuz so far the only pics ive seen of the green vfd is from the AC site, i want some real world pics! do it TN please!
Majin said:
Thanks for the nice words and yes it does save a lot of space and cuts down on the wiring clutter. Too bad I already mounted an Aquastream controller to the bottom front of the case or I could have had all three Aquastream controllers in the same 5 1/4" slot.
Stevennoland
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2006
- Messages
- 418
Excellent work. I can appreciate the time and effort in making a good product better (and your own too boot). Many times I have run into situations where I couldn't buy what I needed, so I had to make it. Luckily I work in a machine shop that lets me work on my own stuff (on my own time of course). Keep up the excellent work! Kudos!
Steven
Steven
revenant
[H]F Squad Captain
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2005
- Messages
- 16,297
Top Nurse said:My ASUS EN 6600 GT's are about to go bye-bye (packing them up as we speak). I got a pair of 6800 Ultra's coming soon with Aqua Computer AquagraFX 6800 blocks already on them. The black and silver blocks will look nice on FF.
Nice! those will put your water cooling to the test... as they are some of the hottest gpus around. I think the new ATi x1900 series and the 512mb GTXs run a little warmer, but those 6800 ultras are hot tamales.
BellaCroix
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2004
- Messages
- 1,054
drizzt81 said:
It's this thing.
A better question is "what's it for?". Look like it lets you turn on up to 12 Cold Cathodes using a USB-software interface. For only $86 - $115 I think I'll just wire mechanical switches.
Well it is a USB device that can also be paired to the Aquaero through the Aquabus interface. It has eight (8) software selectable 12 volt switches, eight (8) software selectable LED headers, one (1) software selectable 12 volt 4 amp relay, and provisions to control two (2) Aquastream controllers. All lof this is controllable through the Aquasuite software interface. The Aquasuite also supports scripting commands so you can build complex responses to selectable hardware or software events.
The Multiswitch can run independent or with the Aquaero.
The Multiswitch can run independent or with the Aquaero.
Bio-Hazard
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2004
- Messages
- 2,312
Just checking, have you finished this project or has pasted on............
Bio-Hazard said:Just checking, have you finished this project or has pasted on............
Just dusted off the case for some more hot FF action. Will be posting a new installment of FF wiring this weekend. Also adding in a Silver TwinPlex for my NB, a pair of 6800 Ultra's with AquagraFX 6800 rev 2 coolers with the copper inserts, and I already bolted in a MOSFET cooler.
Pkirk618
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2002
- Messages
- 5,737
this weekend or next?
Sorry guys, but I had to make a trip to the hospital after getting really sick and ended up having emergency surgery on my infected foot. Just haven't felt like doing much and I have been doing a bit of work just not enough for an update. Gotta get some more Vicodin (better living through better chemistry)
Still working on the PSU wiring and I have to go locate some molex connectors or solder on some remnants from when I cut it all up a while back.
I did put in an ASUS AC mosfet block. So here are some pics.
Here is the way it was before I got busy.
Here are some pics of it taken apart and of course after the addition of the ubiquitous button head screws.
And here it is after I installed it. Not sure if that bend to the waterblock will be okay, but try that with a high flow tube.
Just haven't felt like doing much and I have been doing a bit of work just not enough for an update. Gotta get some more Vicodin (better living through better chemistry) Still working on the PSU wiring and I have to go locate some molex connectors or solder on some remnants from when I cut it all up a while back.
I did put in an ASUS AC mosfet block.
So here are some pics.Here is the way it was before I got busy.
Here are some pics of it taken apart and of course after the addition of the ubiquitous button head screws.
And here it is after I installed it. Not sure if that bend to the waterblock will be okay, but try that with a high flow tube.
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