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Is here someone who is using this display together with a Macbook Pro 15" Retina? Does it work well? Does it work with 30Hz or 60Hz? http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202856 indicates that it would work only in 30Hz mode, unless it's a MST display.
You wouldnt most of the time but it is very obvious in photoshop backgrounds and when im playing arma 2/3 on night servers.
if you increase back the RGB to normal level, do you still have this problem?
I really wanted to replace my Dell 30" with this but the issues are scaring me
Why is a non-4k monitor like the Dell compared to this Philips? Clearly nothing to do with each other.
This is in mac OSX, doesn't matter though its the same in Windows aswell... This is the closest I could get to how it is in real life. The effect is always dead center of your vision, its like some weird convergence issue.
Isn't that the "cone of darkness" all PVA panels have? I have always owned IPS panels so I've heard of it but never seen it.
It is a normal level, its withing the monitors colour gamut, its just not something you encounter all the time but yes it becomes fainter when the monitors luminance increase / becomes brighter.
I wouldn't say it does it better than an IPS display, while IPS glow is a pain in the butt aswell, this issue does cause serious eye fatigue especially when gaming if you get a situation where its happening.
I really wanted to replace my Dell 30" with this but the issues are scaring me
I think some of these issues are isolated(or unnoticeable with mine). Having used both the Dell 30" and Dell 32" 4k(and a shit load of other monitors), this Philips smokes all of them anyone on the fence needs to buy this monitor now, the size & black levels are sooooooooo FUCKING AMAZING
I spent two months reading comments and reviews about this monitor. So glad I bought it - it's a superb monitor. Best techy thing I have bought in ages. Simply beautiful colours, blacks, motion, gaming quality, image clarity - I could go on. I will only concur with others who say that it's an amazing piece of kit. I am very fussy too.
Where can I order this online right now?
OverclockersUK have stock now but its expensive relative to where it should be at £679 whereas I ordered one from Amazon UK last week for £598 all in. Though that stock disappeared fast.
OverclockersUK have stock now but its expensive relative to where it should be at £679 whereas I ordered one from Amazon UK last week for £598 all in. Though that stock disappeared fast.
Hi all -
I've purchased two of these monitors. (One from a Korean seller on Ebay & the other from jphughan ^^^ above ^^^^ - thanks again)
Sadly, the Korean monitor ended up arriving DOA. At this point, I'm not sure what course of action I can even take. I paid $200 shipping to my home and now I'll most likely have to pay $500 shipping back to South Korea. (At that point, the monitor is worth that much to me in parts.)
Problem Described:
I plug the monitor into an outlet, toggle the on/off switch and it simply doesn't power up. It's, most likely, not an issue with the panel or inputs.
If this is just a PSU issue, is there any way I can fix this myself. Is there a parts listing? I've been building PC's for years, but have never done any repairs on a monitor.
According to the specifications PDF:
• Power supply: Built-in, 100-240VAC, 50-60Hz
Thanks.
Haha - thanks for your input. Unfortunately, I'm not an electrical engineer - so technical trouble shooting is out of the question. I honestly would have very little idea of what I'm looking at/for, in regards to monitors.Is it actually not powering up, or is it just that you can't see anything. What I mean by this is the led that indicates the monitor status on or off? If it's on it's probably just the backlight that is gone, you can check that by putting a very bright torch in front of the screen and opening something in it.
If it's off it can be quite a few things, very likely fixable, but only for people with some degree of electronical engineering knowledge.
For starters it should be the power supply, and not the module that controls the monitor, since the led that shows the status is from my experience connected to the power supply, and not to the module that controls the monitor.
Generally the thing that brakes on monitors is the capacitors which are usually of very poor quality, that being said considering that this is a brand new monitor this seems quite unlikely, since these usually fail from use, although they do have a shelf life, but also find it doubtful that this is the case.
Assuming that Philips does some very basic QC, as in they plug in the monitors to see if they actually come on, the problem that seems most likely is a broken solder connection, either in the through hole components (shoddy soldering) or in the smd components (bad bake), this can be fixed by resoldering/rebaking (assuming it would be the actual problems). It can also be a fuse since it doesn't take much physical damage to break those (also who knows if there wasn't a problem when you powered up).
It can also be some damaged IC, the most likely culprits would be the stuff that is attached to heat sinks.
Anyway I'm assuming you don't know much about electronic engineering, so going around probing things with a multimeter/oscilloscope to find the problem is likely out of the question, as such your best bet is to open the monitor look at the numbers in the power board PCB and try and find those numbers online, or contact philips and see if they are willing to sell a power supply with those numbers.
EDITED:
Forgot to mention and I hope it's ok with the administration of this forum, but the badcaps forum is the best place for this sort of stuff IMO (broken monitors and other stuff), they even have a section just for broken computer displays.
akg102: I was hoping to see jphughan's monitor before it got shipped off, as I'm in Austin TX as well and really want to take a look at one of these in person. Are you nearby? I would be happy to come take a look and see if I can help you with the DOA one, I have fixed about a half dozen displays with similar issues as well as amplifiers, subwoofers, etc.
Or anyone else in TX that has one of these? I'm seriously considering getting one but I'd love to see it in person first.
Eesh. Just to rule out the obvious, you're aware that after flipping the On/Off switch, you have to press down on the joystick for about 3 seconds before it will turn on, right? (Note: Pressing down in this case does not mean pushing the joystick to the down position, but rather clicking it downward, i.e. pressing it towards the front of the display.)
...........................hopefully no one from work is on hardforum. I will never hear the end of this.
"Toggle on - click - click - click - click......man, it's always my luck that I get DOA items."
Not only am I pessimistic and cynical, I'm also impatient. Meaning, I have 0 time for the instruction manual.
Thank you all for your help. I guess I'd rather take a hit to my ego/pride than a hit to my checkbook. Humility is a good thing, and I am constantly being humbled.
HOW DO I TIE MY SHOES IN THE MORNING???
Well as long as you're not reading the manual, remember to switch it to DisplayPort 1.2 mode in the OSD (accessed by pressing the joystick in a particular direction, can't remember which anymore) in order to enable 60 Hz.
Enjoy!!
[And on a side note, I'm glad the one from S. Korea arrived first. Would hate to have had a post about my first sale here saying, "Just bought this display from forum member jphughan who claimed he didn't want it, and it arrived DOA." Phew!]
Ha, glad that worked out!
You ordered from amazon uk last week and they already shipped it to you? I ask because you said that the stock disappeared fast, and find it a bit weird since I placed an order almost 2 months ago now, and still haven't received mine.
Soooo, did you buy jphughan's because you actually wanted two, our because you thought that the first one was DOA and you were eager to get a working unit?
At this point, you might as well get another one and run them in surround/Eyefinity. I'd say a single card should give you all of about 10 fps...ha!
Probably but I have never owned a VA panel before and couldn't find much reference to it on the net except 1 example of contrast shift. Havn't seen anyone confirm my results either.