Philips BDM4065UC - 40" 4K 60Hz monitor thread

The photo probably exaggerates the issue. The gamma shift is unfortunate side effect of VA since it only shows up with near black shades, but at the end of the day, the resulting picture is imo still far superior to anything you could get with IPS or TN in dark scenes. There can be some variation between panels of course, and I'm not sure how the Philips panel compares to the AMVA panels in this regard. I have two BenQ GW2760HS in use and even though you can see the off-centre contrast shift in some dark games like modded Skyrim, it's still much better than using a non-VA panel.
 
Is here someone who is using this display together with a Macbook Pro 15" Retina? Does it work well? Does it work with 30Hz or 60Hz? http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202856 indicates that it would work only in 30Hz mode, unless it's a MST display.

That article was written before any displays that could accept 60Hz over SST existed. From a hardware standpoint, any Mac with Thunderbolt 2 ports can drive this at 60 Hz. However, as you can probably tell from the article, there have been software limitations since 4K displays have arrived as well that have been removed with newer OS releases, so that MAY still need to happen for 4K/60 over SST.
 
if you increase back the RGB to normal level, do you still have this problem?

It is a normal level, its withing the monitors colour gamut, its just not something you encounter all the time but yes it becomes fainter when the monitors luminance increase / becomes brighter.

I wouldn't say it does it better than an IPS display, while IPS glow is a pain in the butt aswell, this issue does cause serious eye fatigue especially when gaming if you get a situation where its happening.
 
I really wanted to replace my Dell 30" with this but the issues are scaring me :(

Same here ,(have a U3014) , thinking of just still letting my Amazon order come in for it , get a BenQ 3201 the same week , and using both for a couple weeks and seeing which I prefer.

The thing I'm most picky about is dead pixels , so if one has and one doesn't that'll decide it right there.

I believe someone else had both the 3201 and this Phillips and sided with the 3201 and sent the Phillips back.

Probably everyone's preference is different , will see (Amazon still saying mid Feb for US delivery on my order)
 
Why is a non-4k monitor like the Dell compared to this Philips? Clearly nothing to do with each other.
 
Why is a non-4k monitor like the Dell compared to this Philips? Clearly nothing to do with each other.

Because maybe 4K vs non-4K isn't as big of a dividing line to others as it is to you. There are plenty of other criteria that can be used to decide which display suits somebody best, so not everyone will separate the display market into those that are 4K and those that are not. I originally bought the Philips because I thought it would be awesome to have a huge display with a pixel density that didn't require me to enable scaling to make it usable; I didn't really care that it was specifically 4K. The Philips turned out to be too large for my taste, so I'm now mulling a 30" 1600p display because that should be a palatable size for me and will also deliver my desired pixel density.
 
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This is in mac OSX, doesn't matter though its the same in Windows aswell... This is the closest I could get to how it is in real life. The effect is always dead center of your vision, its like some weird convergence issue.

Isn't that the "cone of darkness" all PVA panels have? I have always owned IPS panels so I've heard of it but never seen it.
 
Isn't that the "cone of darkness" all PVA panels have? I have always owned IPS panels so I've heard of it but never seen it.

Probably but I have never owned a VA panel before and couldn't find much reference to it on the net except 1 example of contrast shift. Havn't seen anyone confirm my results either.
 
It is a normal level, its withing the monitors colour gamut, its just not something you encounter all the time but yes it becomes fainter when the monitors luminance increase / becomes brighter.

I wouldn't say it does it better than an IPS display, while IPS glow is a pain in the butt aswell, this issue does cause serious eye fatigue especially when gaming if you get a situation where its happening.

so what's your previous monitor? And can you do the same test on your prev. monitor and post the same test result here?
 
I really wanted to replace my Dell 30" with this but the issues are scaring me :(

I think some of these issues are isolated(or unnoticeable with mine)

Having used both the Dell 30" and Dell 32" 4k(and a shit load of other monitors), this Philips smokes all of them



anyone on the fence needs to buy this monitor now, the size & black levels are sooooooooo FUCKING AMAZING :p
 
I spent two months reading comments and reviews about this monitor.

So glad I bought it - it's a superb monitor. Best techy thing I have bought in ages. Simply beautiful colours, blacks, motion, gaming quality, image clarity - I could go on. I will only concur with others who say that it's an amazing piece of kit. I am very fussy too.
 
I think some of these issues are isolated(or unnoticeable with mine). Having used both the Dell 30" and Dell 32" 4k(and a shit load of other monitors), this Philips smokes all of them anyone on the fence needs to buy this monitor now, the size & black levels are sooooooooo FUCKING AMAZING :p
I spent two months reading comments and reviews about this monitor. So glad I bought it - it's a superb monitor. Best techy thing I have bought in ages. Simply beautiful colours, blacks, motion, gaming quality, image clarity - I could go on. I will only concur with others who say that it's an amazing piece of kit. I am very fussy too.

But how about this black hole in the center and readability problems at edges when head is in the center :D?

BTW, Do Seiki has the same problems as Philips since both panels seem to be from VA family?
 
I can buy this at ebay right now, but it'll ship out from china. And if there is some defect, say dead pixel, then I'll be screw on exchange. So I'm stuck w/ amazon
 
Evening,

Chiming in from Okinawa, having trouble finding this monitor on island and have not found a store online that will ship this from mainland Japan. Anyone else in the same boat?

Sold as bdm4065uc/11.
 
I think it would be swell if we could focus a little more on how good this monitor is :)
I've ordered one myself but it will only arrive somewhere in the middle of next month.
They were backordered on cdromland.nl, but you can take a zero pixel-defect warranty on any display for 30euro, which I did.

I just want a no-fuss perfect monitor! :)

So, to spur the positive views on this monitor, will anybody make a mini (or big) youtube review of the monitor?
There's isn't a whole lot that can be found for now, and it might help people decide.
A little workspace overview, colour overview, photoshop & technical programs and also gaming at 4k and 1080p on the whole 4k screen.
What does it look like, is it watchable or horrible....etc?

I'd be very thankful for some more reviews!
Thanks!
 
Where can I order this online right now?

Well, there are 196 countries in the world today, and the answer to your question differs somewhat depending on your origin..

But I'll take a guess... I say you are from Italy..

And the answer: You can get it HERE

Now give me ~6 hours to gather all the info for the other 195 countries, in case you are not from Italy.. Will get back to you.
 
OverclockersUK have stock now but its expensive relative to where it should be at £679 whereas I ordered one from Amazon UK last week for £598 all in. Though that stock disappeared fast.
 
OverclockersUK have stock now but its expensive relative to where it should be at £679 whereas I ordered one from Amazon UK last week for £598 all in. Though that stock disappeared fast.

You ordered from amazon uk last week and they already shipped it to you? I ask because you said that the stock disappeared fast, and find it a bit weird since I placed an order almost 2 months ago now, and still haven't received mine.
 
OverclockersUK have stock now but its expensive relative to where it should be at £679 whereas I ordered one from Amazon UK last week for £598 all in. Though that stock disappeared fast.

People ordering internationally, keep in mind that you'd pay the OCUK price that excludes VAT, which is currently £566, just for the purposes of comparing with other international vendors -- and Amazon US eventually, I guess. And yeah, OCUK sold out of over 100 of these things in 1 week. A staffer on the OCUK thread discussing this display said, perhaps unsurprisingly, that it's now officially their best-selling 4K display.
 
Hi all -

I've purchased two of these monitors. (One from a Korean seller on Ebay & the other from jphughan ^^^ above ^^^^ - thanks again)

Sadly, the Korean monitor ended up arriving DOA. At this point, I'm not sure what course of action I can even take. I paid $200 shipping to my home and now I'll most likely have to pay $500 shipping back to South Korea. (At that point, the monitor is worth that much to me in parts.)

Problem Described:
I plug the monitor into an outlet, toggle the on/off switch and it simply doesn't power up. It's, most likely, not an issue with the panel or inputs.

If this is just a PSU issue, is there any way I can fix this myself. Is there a parts listing? I've been building PC's for years, but have never done any repairs on a monitor.

According to the specifications PDF:
• Power supply: Built-in, 100-240VAC, 50-60Hz

Thanks.
 
Is it actually not powering up, or is it just that you can't see anything. What I mean by this is the led that indicates the monitor status on or off? If it's on it's probably just the backlight that is gone, you can check that by putting a very bright torch in front of the screen and opening something in it.

If it's off it can be quite a few things, very likely fixable, but only for people with some degree of electronical engineering knowledge.
For starters it should be the power supply, and not the module that controls the monitor, since the led that shows the status is from my experience connected to the power supply, and not to the module that controls the monitor.
Generally the thing that brakes on monitors is the capacitors which are usually of very poor quality, that being said considering that this is a brand new monitor this seems quite unlikely, since these usually fail from use, although they do have a shelf life, but also find it doubtful that this is the case.
Assuming that Philips does some very basic QC, as in they plug in the monitors to see if they actually come on, the problem that seems most likely is a broken solder connection, either in the through hole components (shoddy soldering) or in the smd components (bad bake), this can be fixed by resoldering/rebaking (assuming it would be the actual problems). It can also be a fuse since it doesn't take much physical damage to break those (also who knows if there wasn't a problem when you powered up).

It can also be some damaged IC, the most likely culprits would be the stuff that is attached to heat sinks.

Anyway I'm assuming you don't know much about electronic engineering, so going around probing things with a multimeter/oscilloscope to find the problem is likely out of the question, as such your best bet is to open the monitor look at the numbers in the power board PCB and try and find those numbers online, or contact philips and see if they are willing to sell a power supply with those numbers.

EDITED:

Forgot to mention and I hope it's ok with the administration of this forum, but the badcaps forum is the best place for this sort of stuff IMO (broken monitors and other stuff), they even have a section just for broken computer displays.
 
Hi all -

I've purchased two of these monitors. (One from a Korean seller on Ebay & the other from jphughan ^^^ above ^^^^ - thanks again)

Sadly, the Korean monitor ended up arriving DOA. At this point, I'm not sure what course of action I can even take. I paid $200 shipping to my home and now I'll most likely have to pay $500 shipping back to South Korea. (At that point, the monitor is worth that much to me in parts.)

Problem Described:
I plug the monitor into an outlet, toggle the on/off switch and it simply doesn't power up. It's, most likely, not an issue with the panel or inputs.

If this is just a PSU issue, is there any way I can fix this myself. Is there a parts listing? I've been building PC's for years, but have never done any repairs on a monitor.

According to the specifications PDF:
• Power supply: Built-in, 100-240VAC, 50-60Hz

Thanks.

Eesh. Just to rule out the obvious, you're aware that after flipping the On/Off switch, you have to press down on the joystick for about 3 seconds before it will turn on, right? (Note: Pressing down in this case does not mean pushing the joystick to the down position, but rather clicking it downward, i.e. pressing it towards the front of the display.)
 
akg102: I was hoping to see jphughan's monitor before it got shipped off, as I'm in Austin TX as well and really want to take a look at one of these in person. Are you nearby? I would be happy to come take a look and see if I can help you with the DOA one, I have fixed about a half dozen displays with similar issues as well as amplifiers, subwoofers, etc.

Or anyone else in TX that has one of these? I'm seriously considering getting one but I'd love to see it in person first.
 
Is it actually not powering up, or is it just that you can't see anything. What I mean by this is the led that indicates the monitor status on or off? If it's on it's probably just the backlight that is gone, you can check that by putting a very bright torch in front of the screen and opening something in it.

If it's off it can be quite a few things, very likely fixable, but only for people with some degree of electronical engineering knowledge.
For starters it should be the power supply, and not the module that controls the monitor, since the led that shows the status is from my experience connected to the power supply, and not to the module that controls the monitor.
Generally the thing that brakes on monitors is the capacitors which are usually of very poor quality, that being said considering that this is a brand new monitor this seems quite unlikely, since these usually fail from use, although they do have a shelf life, but also find it doubtful that this is the case.
Assuming that Philips does some very basic QC, as in they plug in the monitors to see if they actually come on, the problem that seems most likely is a broken solder connection, either in the through hole components (shoddy soldering) or in the smd components (bad bake), this can be fixed by resoldering/rebaking (assuming it would be the actual problems). It can also be a fuse since it doesn't take much physical damage to break those (also who knows if there wasn't a problem when you powered up).

It can also be some damaged IC, the most likely culprits would be the stuff that is attached to heat sinks.

Anyway I'm assuming you don't know much about electronic engineering, so going around probing things with a multimeter/oscilloscope to find the problem is likely out of the question, as such your best bet is to open the monitor look at the numbers in the power board PCB and try and find those numbers online, or contact philips and see if they are willing to sell a power supply with those numbers.

EDITED:

Forgot to mention and I hope it's ok with the administration of this forum, but the badcaps forum is the best place for this sort of stuff IMO (broken monitors and other stuff), they even have a section just for broken computer displays.
Haha - thanks for your input. Unfortunately, I'm not an electrical engineer - so technical trouble shooting is out of the question. I honestly would have very little idea of what I'm looking at/for, in regards to monitors.

BTW - the power led isn't turning on.
 
akg102: I was hoping to see jphughan's monitor before it got shipped off, as I'm in Austin TX as well and really want to take a look at one of these in person. Are you nearby? I would be happy to come take a look and see if I can help you with the DOA one, I have fixed about a half dozen displays with similar issues as well as amplifiers, subwoofers, etc.

Or anyone else in TX that has one of these? I'm seriously considering getting one but I'd love to see it in person first.

D'oh! I didn't see a PM from you, otherwise I would have asked akg102 if he would've been ok with me delaying shipment to him by a day or two until you got to see it. He's in Illinois though. Sorry! :(
 
I actually didn't see your post until you'd already sold it, unfortunately. Bad timing! Oh well, thanks anyway :)
 
...........................hopefully no one from work is on hardforum. I will never hear the end of this.

"Toggle on - click - click - click - click......man, it's always my luck that I get DOA items."

Not only am I pessimistic and cynical, I'm also impatient. Meaning, I have 0 time for the instruction manual.

Thank you all for your help. I guess I'd rather take a hit to my ego/pride than a hit to my checkbook. Humility is a good thing, and I am constantly being humbled. :D

HOW DO I TIE MY SHOES IN THE MORNING???

Eesh. Just to rule out the obvious, you're aware that after flipping the On/Off switch, you have to press down on the joystick for about 3 seconds before it will turn on, right? (Note: Pressing down in this case does not mean pushing the joystick to the down position, but rather clicking it downward, i.e. pressing it towards the front of the display.)
 
...........................hopefully no one from work is on hardforum. I will never hear the end of this.

"Toggle on - click - click - click - click......man, it's always my luck that I get DOA items."

Not only am I pessimistic and cynical, I'm also impatient. Meaning, I have 0 time for the instruction manual.

Thank you all for your help. I guess I'd rather take a hit to my ego/pride than a hit to my checkbook. Humility is a good thing, and I am constantly being humbled. :D

HOW DO I TIE MY SHOES IN THE MORNING???

:D

Well as long as you're not reading the manual, remember to switch it to DisplayPort 1.2 mode in the OSD (accessed by pressing the joystick in a particular direction, can't remember which anymore) in order to enable 60 Hz. :p

Enjoy!!

[And on a side note, I'm glad the one from S. Korea arrived first. Would hate to have had a post about my first sale here saying, "Just bought this display from forum member jphughan who claimed he didn't want it, and it arrived DOA." Phew!]
 
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Count yourself lucky. You narrowly avoided the wrath of my stupidity. :D

:D

Well as long as you're not reading the manual, remember to switch it to DisplayPort 1.2 mode in the OSD (accessed by pressing the joystick in a particular direction, can't remember which anymore) in order to enable 60 Hz. :p

Enjoy!!

[And on a side note, I'm glad the one from S. Korea arrived first. Would hate to have had a post about my first sale here saying, "Just bought this display from forum member jphughan who claimed he didn't want it, and it arrived DOA." Phew!]
 
Well in your defense a power button shouldn't need a manual, I once saw a samsung with one of those stupid touch sensitive buttons, took me 6 or 7 minutes until I realized that it didn't had a physical on/off button lol.
 
Soooo, did you buy jphughan's because you actually wanted two, our because you thought that the first one was DOA and you were eager to get a working unit?

At this point, you might as well get another one and run them in surround/Eyefinity. I'd say a single card should give you all of about 10 fps...ha!
 
You ordered from amazon uk last week and they already shipped it to you? I ask because you said that the stock disappeared fast, and find it a bit weird since I placed an order almost 2 months ago now, and still haven't received mine.

I also had a amazon UK order waiting since mid december. But last week this company "DB Technology srl" temporarily listed 2 for 2 days for £598 inc shipping to Ireland. I think it was based in Italy. Since they claimed dispatch within 3 to 5 days it overrode the amazon supplied one which is still 1 to 2 months. Though only today it said dispatched so we'll see. Anyway this one mentioned by Darwin32 seems good too especially considering where the Euro is going. http://www.hw1.it/philips-bdm4065uc-bdm4065uc-00/ref_tdb/
 
Soooo, did you buy jphughan's because you actually wanted two, our because you thought that the first one was DOA and you were eager to get a working unit?

At this point, you might as well get another one and run them in surround/Eyefinity. I'd say a single card should give you all of about 10 fps...ha!

Hahahaahahha! I started out just wanting one and assumed the Korean 40" would be okay. I then saw that jp was selling his and I couldn't pass up on a good deal!

By Wednesday, I should have 2 up and running -- they'll be completely replacing my 27" Korean PLS/IPS panels.

So far - this display is amazing and I'm not disappointed one bit. The PPI is perfect and I don't even notice the non-square pixel issue. Colors get a tiny bit washed out at the corners from about 34-36", but it's pretty easy to adjust to. IMO

I have displayfusion, so I've split the screen up into 3 vertical panels, with the 2 outside panels being split in half horizontally. My primary IDE goes in the middle, tall panel and sits at ~1280x2160; everything else gets pushed to the outside into 1280x1080 boxes.

I really wish I could get 3 -- it would be glorious. But, I don't think my heart OR my desk OR my wallet OR my 295x2 could handle it. :D
 
Probably but I have never owned a VA panel before and couldn't find much reference to it on the net except 1 example of contrast shift. Havn't seen anyone confirm my results either.

I've seen that term used several times, here is an example


Im using the 32EH5000 for PC gaming, I have no issues with the motion coming from a TN monitor. The TV is perfect aside from the viewing angle 'cone' that is with all S-PVA panels when you are up close or off angle.
 
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