Philips BDM4065UC - 40" 4K 60Hz monitor thread

imyourzero said:
I may have to end up getting one of these for work. This, or the Crossover 404k, but I'm kinda hung up there. The Crossover is supposedly flicker free, but I feel a lot better about Philips in terms of warranty and service.
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I was gonna buy the crossover but hearing the guys at overclockers talk about the nonsense of dealing with the korean vendors and dead pixels, I said screw it and just ordered the phillips. It may cost more, but the peace of mind is worth it.

Plus the Philips is actually coming from inside the USA from what I can tell.
 
imyourzero said:
I may have to end up getting one of these for work. This, or the Crossover 404k, but I'm kinda hung up there. The Crossover is supposedly flicker free, but I feel a lot better about Philips in terms of warranty and service.
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Don't you use one of the 2015 Samsung 4k TVs? Those are PWM displays as well so if you don't have an issue with those I don't see why PWM on the Philips would be a problem.
 
MistaSparkul said:
Don't you use one of the 2015 Samsung 4k TVs? Those are PWM displays as well so if you don't have an issue with those I don't see why PWM on the Philips would be a problem.
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Yep, I do. And you're right. I guess Philips is it, then. :) I haven't read many complaints of people being bothered by the PWM anyway.

Kinda makes me wonder if this was just a one-off for Philips, or if they'll release another version next year.
 
Greetings.

I purchased this monitor a few days ago and have encountered a couple of issues, the most significant of which being a considerable amount of ghosting. I am aware of this monitor's slightly long 0-255 transition time but this issue appears to be affecting almost every colour to some degree and lasts far longer than 20ms.

Here is an image which I hope will convey exactly what I am seeing.

8W3r0KU.jpg


In the above image, I am dragging the foreground window over the YouTube home page and items in the background remain visible for at least 9-12 frames.

Additionally, I'm finding the monitor quite dim; almost too dim to use comfortably in daylight. I do not have any objective means of measuring luminance but my Retina MacBook Pro (which is known for not being particularly bright) is much brighter than it.

Are these issues a widespread design flaw or have I simply received a defective monitor?

Thank you,

Otaku+
 
The ghosting looks somewhat like what I had, but mine was certainly bright enough. I had to drop the brightness quite a bit. I assume you've checked what brightness setting it's at?
 
It should reach ~265cd/m² that is a bit less than what most other monitors can achieve (~290-380) but its still good even under brighter lighting conditions.

Its not the first time these ghosting issues are mentioned, not sure what to make of it. Looks like a mix of slow response times, PWM and image retention.
Also often encountered are bleeding artifacts with plain colors, inversion artifacts and some discoloration issues in dark gradients, and the image is slightly stretched, to me it seems this TP Vision panel is a bit flawed on a fundamental level.
In general it seems the 5000:1 panels are more prone to issues than the 3000:1 panels.

There is also supposed to be a long red trail against white on the bottom UFO here:
http://www.testufo.com/#test=ghosting&background=000000&separation=1000&pps=960&pursuit=0

Cyan at 100% and 75%/25% brightness:
http://www.sweclockers.com/test/20425-philips-bdm4065uc-4k-uhd-pa-40-tum/5#content

Its good on the cyan backgrounds as long as OD is disabled, but a faint overdrive shadow against the dark background, even with SmartResponse off (strange that tftcentral didn't pick that one up)
 
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Otaku+ said:
In the above image, I am dragging the foreground window over the YouTube home page and items in the background remain visible for at least 9-12 frames.

Additionally, I'm finding the monitor quite dim; almost too dim to use comfortably in daylight. I do not have any objective means of measuring luminance but my Retina MacBook Pro (which is known for not being particularly bright) is much brighter than it.

Are these issues a widespread design flaw or have I simply received a defective monitor?
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I wonder if you have the monitor set to 60Hz?
Like other 4K monitors the monitor is set to DP1.1 mode when you buy it which then limits the 3840x2160 to 30 Hz. I don't know if this even matters with regards to the ghosting, but it it is a quick check - just go to the Setup section of the OSD to see.

Also just to try - do go through the settings on the monitor and check if any of the "smart" settings are enabled. It nay be worth trying to disable them just to see (and this goes for both the ghosting and the brightness issue).
 
The black to white transitions will leave a smear trail, that's just something you need to accept with a panel like this. Other transitions are on par with most IPS/AMVA panel, in some cases even slightly better. These high contrast VA panels just seem to have issues with that particular transition, and it's easily seen when browsing white web pages.
 
igluk said:
It should reach ~265cd/m² that is a bit less than what most other monitors can achieve (~290-380) but its still good even under brighter lighting conditions.

Its not the first time these ghosting issues are mentioned, not sure what to make of it. Looks like a mix of slow response times, PWM and image retention.
Also often encountered are bleeding artifacts with plain colors, inversion artifacts and some discoloration issues in dark gradients, and the image is slightly stretched, to me it seems this TP Vision panel is a bit flawed on a fundamental level.
In general it seems the 5000:1 panels are more prone to issues than the 3000:1 panels.

There is also supposed to be a long red trail against white on the bottom UFO here:
http://www.testufo.com/#test=ghosting&background=000000&separation=1000&pps=960&pursuit=0

Cyan at 100% and 75%/25% brightness:
http://www.sweclockers.com/test/20425-philips-bdm4065uc-4k-uhd-pa-40-tum/5#content
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Yes, my unit is also exhibiting bleeding artifacts. It sounds as though all of these issues are the norm rather than the exception, so I will likely have to return this monitor for a 32" IPS (such as the BenQ BL3201PT).

It's certainly a shame, as I'm finding 40" to be the ideal size for a 4K monitor.
 
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Satisfying a curiosity: Can you do 1080p 120Hz on this monitor if you wanted to?
 
Q-BZ said:
Satisfying a curiosity: Can you do 1080p 120Hz on this monitor if you wanted to?
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Nope. You can send it upto 80hz over 1080p but the panel drops frames which I confirmed with my camera. It looks like 2 frames dropped over the 1/5sec exposure time. Which presumeably make it pointless to push more Hz to it. I checked and it does the same at every freq. over 60Hz.
Otaku+ said:
Yes, my unit is also exhibiting bleeding artifacts. It sounds as though all of these issues are the norm rather than the exception, so I will likely have to return this monitor for a 32" IPS (such as the BenQ BL3201PT).

It's certainly a shame, as I'm finding 40" to be the ideal size for a 4K monitor.
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Ghosting and bleeding like that are on my Philips only if you have SmartResponse on. Turn it off in the Picture option menu. Also turn off Game Mode and leave it with no modes/processing enabled.
This was also noted in the TFT Central review. I set mine up per their calibration and its perfect.
 
kodachrome said:
Nope. You can send it upto 80hz over 1080p but the panel drops frames which I confirmed with my camera. It looks like 2 frames dropped over the 1/5sec exposure time. Which presumeably make it pointless to push more Hz to it. I checked and it does the same at every freq. over 60Hz.


Ghosting and bleeding like that are on my Philips only if you have SmartResponse on. Turn it off in the Picture option menu. Also turn off Game Mode and leave it with no modes/processing enabled.
This was also noted in the TFT Central review. I set mine up per their calibration and its perfect.
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SmartResponse, SmartImage and SmartContrast are all disabled.
 
I just got a philips BDM4065UC last week. It's connected via display port. On certain solid backgrounds (grey seems the worst), there are lighter colored vertical lines/bars, that move around with the windows.

I made a video to capture the effect: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmmhsORVv5c

Does this look like a defect with the monitor, or is this a problem with a setting/tune, or a feature of this display type?
My general web searches did not yield a lot of info, besides a few others complaining about similar issues. I didn't find any suggested solutions. I tried searching within this thread as well, I did find someone pointing out the same issue on a solid purple background.

On a separate note....most of my smartcontrol options are greyed out preventing me from trying to tune it that way. It did work before....not sure what happened. I've uninstalled and reinstalled both the monitor drivers and the smartcontrol software.
 
Hi, that's normal, if you look closely you will find a few mentions on this thread, there is really nothing to be done about it, the closest thing to solving the issue is lowering the brightness, since the problem is less noticeable with lower brightness.
You can also change the background to something more varied, it also diminishes the problem, in the case of moving windows against the background.
It's also visible when a brand new white document is opened in photoshop and similar software.
With all that being said when watching movies and playing games it's completely a non issue, and you will probably get used to it outside of that.
 
I loved the static use of the monitor & deep blacks but returned it due to the lack of smoothness while gaming. I have a 120hz laptop and so I've been spoiled ;-) .
You need to experience a high refresh rate monitor for a while (not 2 minutes in a store) and then go back to 60hz to really notice.
I'm not trying to brake this down, it's a matter of choice and 60hz 4k is great unless the lack smoothness bothers you.
If it had Gsync I might have kept it.
 
Kinawa said:
I loved the static use of the monitor & deep blacks but returned it due to the lack of smoothness while gaming. I have a 120hz laptop and so I've been spoiled ;-) .
You need to experience a high refresh rate monitor for a while (not 2 minutes in a store) and then go back to 60hz to really notice.
I'm not trying to brake this down, it's a matter of choice and 60hz 4k is great unless the lack smoothness bothers you.
If it had Gsync I might have kept it.
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Are you sure what your struggling with isn't the lower and fluctuating frame rate in games due to the 4K resolution rather than the refresh rate of the monitor?
 
Gyus,

I can see, the topics about 40" 4k displays are just growing like crazy...i like it, the 40" 4k is the new black; but, at this topic (not like at the Crossover 44k/404k topic at overclock.net) I can see so much "hate" and some flaws catching and I think that we are missing the point...

Would you mind making the videos ? I mean I would love to see two:
1. high speed camera, or even smartphone with a 720p 120fps option to have a shot at the hand on the mouse (or a finger on the analog stick on the gamepad) and monitor at some FPS game to see how many frames do we lose with that particular frames per second to see real-world input lag)
2. some DSLR focused on the monitor and some gaming, give us some feed, give us some blood, give us some passion, while watching the gaming on that beast
...
If some would make some video...that would be wonderful and helpful too, there are tons of people, who are confused from the amount of the information (good and bad) about all 40" 4k monitors as Philips, or Crossover's 44/404k and AMH's A399U as well...


Ghosting...I am not concerned about it...motion res too, I have not any experience with a 120+Hz panels, which means I am used to see motion res value of 300 with 60Hz and little higher with my 80Hz overclock on my Dell P2414H I am using now; Even my low input lag (higher response times as the philips for example :) ) has well known blurring, while moving with windows, especially moving with a browser with some webpage loaded and it is normal, that while moving it is blurred and even that there is some sort of a ghosting, it is nothing unusual with non high frequency panels on the market.

Thank you, guys.
 
Just my personal feelings on the above - I went from a Dell UP3214Q to this Philips and then back to the Dell again. In no way is the Dell a high-performance low-latency monitor, any review will bear that out. Nonetheless, the Dell is picture perfect compared to the Philips - none of the ghosting and backlight artefacts I saw on my BDM4065UC have I ever seen on the Dell, which is why I went back to it. For all the comments about mine being faulty, maybe, but I have since sold it to someone who is happy with it, so I guess it's all down to your level of perception / preference. My standards are set higher than the Philips but not higher than the Dell necessarily, other than that I wish they'd produce one that's SST. SST is the only real reason I bought the Philips in the first place, not for the extra screen size, but having SST wasn't, to me, worth the other disadvantages.
 
And...another question, I would like to ask you about sRGB mode, or not that, but only about 100% brightness setting as it is only option, how to not get any flickering; is reducing the brightness in the windows possible without getting flickering with lower brightness set to the monitor ? Will be there any difference in the power consumption ? is it even possible to control the brightness in the windows and games with 100% brightness set in the OSD menu of monitor and to not get any flickering ?
 
Theoretically you could reduce the brightness in windows to compensate as the contrast level of the Philips is mindblowingly high - I couldn't really tell the difference between a black image and actually being switched off, they're so dark - that's instantly noticeable with the IPS panels I'm used to using. However, you are likely to find games overriding these settings.

I found setting 100% brightness had no impact, positive or negative on me noticing backlight artefacts / ghosting issues, so I didn't bother in the end.
 
The black level is only ~0.055cd/m² at 100% (Backlight) Brightness, so theoretically if its possible to reduce the digital white luminance to 120cd/m² it should still net a contrast of about ~2200:1.
 
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Has anyone tried it or using it ? To report some experience with it :)
 
dropadred said:
Has anyone tried it or using it ? To report some experience with it :)
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Honestly - I think you should put some leg work in rather than expect having people here server everything on a silver platter.

For starters there is this thread where all sorts of questions has been asked and answered over time, all you have to do is do the reading. And then there is the reviews which have been done, while not all are super detailed others are and if you look you'll find a lot of info - for starters try prad.de and tftcentral.
 
Well, actually my first contact with a Philips was through tftcentral and prad review, so as far as this reviews go I know about it, but..there are some unanswered question and with some other random shots as how AMH A399U and Crossover 404k is better, which I am not fully convinced it is true..

the thing still stays the same - you can even find the information about keeping the brightness through an OSD menu and lower it through GPU driver, but f.e. as it has been said - one picture speaks for the 1000 words; so let's say there would be an image - first one with 50% brightness in the OSD menu and with no change in the driver/windows, the second one would be with 100% brightness in the OSD menu and some brightness reduction through the driver to more or less same luminance

Then, the simple "input lag" by eye test with a camera pointed at hand with mouse and display is not something, what requires long preparation..

But do not get me wrong, I know, what have you tried to said me and I am sorry it sounds like that, maybe the fact, there is not so much activity looks like only me asking some stupid things..
 
Unfortunately, other than glaring image errors (like severe backlight leakage, image corruption and the likes) most facets of a monitor aren't really visible in a photograph, you physically have to see it to tell whether or not it's going to be for you. I tried it and discovered it wasn't for me. YMMV
 
If you live in Europe you can order one from amazon and try it, if you don't like it you can always return it and get a refund, if you don't well yeah you pretty much need to trust the reviews, there isn't much anyone can help you with, the monitor isn't perfect, and none of them are, it has weaknesses in comparison to say an IPS panel, but ofc it also has strengths, it's a question of what you want, and how much the monitor plays to it.
 
dropadred said:
<SNIP>
But do not get me wrong, I know, what have you tried to said me and I am sorry it sounds like that, maybe the fact, there is not so much activity looks like only me asking some stupid things..
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No problem. I certainly won't be the one to stop anyone asking - sorry I took you for not having checked some of the words already written about the monitor.

As samuelmorris and Micael mentions I think making photos that really show what you look may not be a good way forward, but I'll give it some more thought and maybe try to see how it works out. If you look you will find some people that have record how gaming looks, but keep in mind that what you're seeing there will depend on how they recorded it, their post processing and of course the screen you watch the result on.

Either way - as Micael mentions if you're in the EU you could take advantage of the two week full return rights one has as a consumer when buying online(It is not just Amazon that offers this - it simply the law that all shops must do so on anything non-custom made). Before doing so do check the fine print at the shop in question - some make it easier than others to do the return thing.
 
Does anybody know the max current one can draw from the fast charging port?

Normal USB3 should be 0,9A-1,5A.... But I need 3A for my ambilight. It would be reallynice if i could use the fast charging port. Some sources say, that they can provide as much as 5A.

Does anybody know more?

Edit: Just tested, 3A is possible.
 
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Has anyone tested if you get audio to the speakers on this monitor from a PC using the mini display port on the monitor? Will 4:4:4@60 still be possible with the audio?

And do you think newer graphics cards released in a year or two will be handicapped on this monitor because it's dp 1.2 and not 1.3(if thats released yet or not Im not sure)? I'm just wondering if next years graphics cards will still be compatible/have dp 1.2 ports or backwards compatibility. But I'm sure they will :)
 
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Worry not. When DP 1.3 comes out, it'll be backwards compatible with the older standards. It's not like your new video card won't work with the monitor. ;)
 
I measure 10 Watt in Standby (white LED blinking) with my Belkin Powermeter. This is much higher than the advertised 0,5 Watt.
My BDM4065UC is connected via DP 1.2 to a Skylake Asrock Z170 Mainboard.
How much do you measure?
 
i do not think, this reviews are necessary since there is review by tftcentral
 
dropadred said:
i do not think, this reviews are necessary since there is review by tftcentral
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And pcmonitors. I actually preferred their review as it gave me a better idea of what to expect from the monitor. And it gave me the final push to buy the damn thing. Unfortunately for my office at work not my fun at home. But I might get another. ;)
 
Is this monitor good for CS:GO and LoL? I will be gaming on a GTX 970. Can it run max settings @ 4K?

How is the lag? Is it too big for CS:GO? Is sitting 60cm from screen too close for this screen?
 
k3nnis said:
Is this monitor good for CS:GO and LoL? I will be gaming on a GTX 970. Can it run max settings @ 4K?

How is the lag? Is it too big for CS:GO? Is sitting 60cm from screen too close for this screen?
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it has ~20 ms of input lag. personally i would never play on anything with more than 5 ms delay but you might not care. a 970 is more than enough for 60 fps at 4K in CS:GO and LoL.

try this: http://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1134&start=20
 
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