Philips BDM3270 - a hidden gem

You could of just made the Russian ICC profile your default to test it and then changed back to your original and made it default afterwards. You only need to select the ICC profile and then click make default and then the changes are made. If there is any difference then you should see it change.

You can try the gamma1 icc profile (see attachment) to see a big change. Just change back to your original afterwards.
 

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Well, I did set the russian profile as default. Now testing your gamma profile, it doesn't do anything either. I'm making sure I set it as default and then also "combine the settings".... :/

Shouldn't I be changing the actual profile here instead?

ScreenShot001.jpg
 
Just wondering, are you doing this in a light room or dark room?
 
You are on the wrong tab!, it's the devices tab that is required. You should not be combining anything because you do not want to be altering the ICC profiles only use them for testing.

I am not certain what effect combining the profiles has on the profiles themselves, whether the profiles are altered by combining or whether they are not actually altered. It might be worth deleting all these profiles and add them again from scratch to delete any messed up settings that might of occurred by combining them.

What you need to do to see changes when you make changes on the Devices tab is to go to the Advanced tab and click Change system defaults button near the button then on the new window, also go to the Advanced tab and next to the Calibrate display button tick the box next to it that says Use Windows display calibration. Do that and then close that window.

After doing that when you select an ICC profile on the devices tab and click Set as Default Profile button you should see the changes immediately.
 
How am
**MaRVeL** said:
You are on the wrong tab!, it's the devices tab that is required. You should not be combining anything because you do not want to be altering the ICC profiles only use them for testing.

I am not certain what effect combining the profiles has on the profiles themselves, whether the profiles are altered by combining or whether they are not actually altered. It might be worth deleting all these profiles and add them again from scratch to delete any messed up settings that might of occurred by combining them.

What you need to do to see changes when you make changes on the Devices tab is to go to the Advanced tab and click Change system defaults button near the button then on the new window, also go to the Advanced tab and next to the Calibrate display button tick the box next to it that says Use Windows display calibration. Do that and then close that window.

After doing that when you select an ICC profile on the devices tab and click Set as Default Profile button you should see the changes immediately.
Click to expand...

How am I on the wrong tab if in the end I am required to go to BOTH tabs to actually apply a single fricking profile change? OMG, this must be the single most convoluted setting in the entirety of Windows!

So just to be sure, is this what I should do?

0. Color Management -> Devices tab -> Disassociate (Remove) and then re-associate (Add) the desired profiles with my monitor?

1. Color Management -> Advanced tab -> Change System Defaults -> Advanced tab ->tick Use Windows Display Calibration?

2. Color Management -> Devices tab - > Set my desired profile as default and I should see the change immediately?

Thanks!
 
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Still looking for some feedback please from my earlier post (on page one) - thanks :)
 
I don't know whether you need to remove the profiles because I do not know what effect combining does. It does not sound a good idea to me which is why I suggested removing the profiles which might of been "corrupted"/altered in order to get clean profiles which are not altered.

#1 additional, make sure that you click close after you tick the box. Then on the Color Management window devices tab you can then select a profile to try and click set as default. That should change it and you will see any changes immediately. If you have that Gamma1 profile and your Philips BDM3270 profile and select each in turn and click set as default profile after selecting each profile you will definitely see a change. ;)

You do no need to keep going into the Change system defaults, you only need to do that once. If you do not do that step it does not show the changes for some reason. At least that is what happens on my system if I untick that box. Once that is done you can freely change the profile and see immediate changes. It was not working for you as it was so if you want to see a change then I think that is what you need to do.

I think that it might be a good idea to remove them and re-add the profiles to be sure that they have not been altered because it could affect them in negative ways. It's up to you though but that is my suggestion and what I would do in your circumstance. I don't think having the profiles combined is what will benefit you.
 
puw said:
Still looking for some feedback please from my earlier post (on page one) - thanks :)
Click to expand...
I do not own this monitor. I did consider it but didn't like what I read about it at the high price so avoided it. I did read that those 32" monitors with AMVA+ panels can have problems with patchiness on the screen. The BenQ BL3200PT is particularly prone to it but I do not think that the Philips was entirely clear of the problem. I suggest that you read some Amazon reviews on all the Amazon sites worldwide, co.uk, de, fr, es, it, ca, com to see what people have said about these monitors, particularly the BenQ so you know what to look out for.
 
Thanks Marvel for the reply and the suggestion. I have done a lot of digging around, and because this panel is used for at least 3 companies, it seems they all have different issues, through tuning them for slightly different markets. The Benq looked better to begin with when I first began looking at this size and price range, but I saw too many folks stating issues that meant quality control was an issue. I'd much rather go for 'one' of the 2 Samsungs I mentioned though the best one is more like 1500$ ++ while the lesser model but has equally great reviews from folks focused on graphics and photography (for me due to high import duties) has a price tag of about $600 ++ (I'm approximating exchange rates here), & waiting until I can reach the lesser amount is messing with my productivity, so taking a bit of a hit on the Philips seems a good idea at around $300 - for now. Yes it might not be ideal, but it does mean I am moving forward and with increased productivity and better graphics, I will them soon down the road be able to further upgrade it, making the Philips a more everyday general usage monitor.

But I wonder, do you have any suggestions with regards testing a monitor on site before you buy? What to test it with, what to look for etc? Do you personally have a 'testing to do list'?

Thanks, really appreciate the time you spend answering and helping.

BTW, what monitor do you have?
 
Test images can be found on the following site. It might be worth copying the images in png format and putting them on a USB flash drive with a portable image viewer.http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
LCD monitor test images

I could not stand the blurring that is present on most LCD screens so I had to go for a gaming screen to cut the blurring even at the expense of colour. Therefore I went for an LG 24GM77. It's a TN panel so not really suitable for what you require.

It might be worth trying some darker colours such as brown and grey scrolling to check how the monitor handles it because I know that AMVA+ panels have big problems dealing with such colours in motion. I did have a BenQ GW2470H which is an AMVA+ panel and the motion, even scrolling a google search page with firefox stylish extension google style was absolutely appalling.
 
I have a question related to HDMI-MHL in this monitor.
I'm planning to plug in my notebook via HDMI (this is the only video port that I've got). Unfortunatelly, I can't find precise answer, if I can do that (HDMI-MHL is just HDMI+MHL or different port?).
Will I be able to connect it using HDMI 1.4 and "force" the 2560x1440 resolution with ~55hz?
 
Hello,

I've had this display for 9 months now and it's been great. But recently i've been having this wierd problem.

None of my OSD buttons don't work anymore ( even if u press harder or longer ), even the LED that shows the power is off, but the screen powers up and works ok.

I have tried to contact Phillips in my country and EU and i haven't received any replays.

Has any of you encountered this issue ?!?

Thank you.
 
Hi all,

I got brand new Philips 288p with newer revision, from warranty (28" 4K Tn panel) (I had "older" model for two years).

I can try to sell it and replace it with BDM3270 which now have the same price.

288p is fast screen with bold colors (it has srgb preset and 10-bit color) and very good blacks due to it's lower brightness I guess (200 instead of 300 cd/m2) (contrast is around 700:1 in meassurment but Tom's hardware wrote that the monitor have much better ANSI contrast - contrast on this monitor is very good from my perspective). I am planning to buy x-rite Display Pro also.

The prints are pretty close to the screen. But I do 3D animation also.

I work with Maya and this screen has no patches. I am holding it on 150% of dpi in Windows which is like Full HD I think. (I have 4k in use with After Effects where Full HD is very small working window, and text looks very nice on desktop). ;)

The only disadvantages are narrow viewing angles, and BDM3270 is 10 cm bigger.

What do You think? I am toward Marvel/s philosophy of fast screen, but I had to ask the question. I guess speed without patches vs stronger contrast and size is my dilemma.


Thanks.

Cheers,
Vedran
 
Just some additional information on overclocking. I just bought a BDM3270QP2 hoping it would be possible to overclock it. It will accept 72Hz but it skips frames. Skipping is there also at lower overclocks like 66Hz.
There's also bad backlight bleed coming from all corners so will probably return it.
 
Apart from the 75Hz support, is any reason to justify the Asus PB328QP's almost USD/EUR100 higher price? I'm still undecided for which to opt for..

P.S. can anyone confirm that the only difference between the Philips BDM3270QP and QP2 is that the latter one has a glossy screen and max luminosity is 250 vs 300 nits?
 
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If it wasn't for the clouding, i'd be happy with the BDM3270QP2. Picture is excellent in all other aspects.
If the Asus was only 100EUR more i'd get that just for 76Hz but where i'm located, it's twice the price.

Just to add to higher refresh rates on the Philips, skipping is even there on lower native resolutions that should work according to the spec and manual like 1400x900@75.
Another negative thing about the Philips is that there's no native support for 23.976 or 24Hz. I could add 24 manually byt it doesn't handle it very well.
 
So does the QP2 actually have a glossy or semi-glossy coating? or at least less matte than the QP?
Strange that the Asus costs almost double, where are you from? throughout European shops I've always find it about 100 Eur more than the QP. Apart for the 75Hz, I like the Asus design quite more to tell the truth, a bit less "office-like" than the Philips, with thinner bezel.

Pity for that 24Hz thing, but anyway I do not think I'd watch that many movies on it anyway in case..
 
I would say the QP2 is semi-glossy. It's not matte.
I'm in Sweden. The QP2 costs 370EUR here. The Asus is 790 (i've disregarded a two cheaper shops that i'd prefer to not buy from though, cheapest is 624).

I don't plan to watch movies on it either but would be nice to have the option. Really can't understand how a monitor like this doesn't have native support for it. I haven't tried over HDMI though, only DP.
 
Really a good price for the QP2, here in Italy Eur 420 is the least I've found it. Have you calibrated it by chance? What contrast value can you reach more or less?
 
Haven't tried to calibrate it and don't have any tools for it i'm afraid.
It comes with a calibration report specific for my serial but they haven't measured contrast.
 
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