Phanteks Glacier G1080 Video Card Water Block Review @ [H]

FrgMstr

Just Plain Mean
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Phanteks Glacier G1080 Video Card Water Block Review

Do you have the desire to run your high-end NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti at crazy sustained clock rates, with core temperatures just about 10 degrees C over ambient, and doing all that while in near silence? Phanteks has the answer for you with its Glacier series G1080 custom cooling system for your GeForce card. Frag Harder Disco Lights included.
 
More expensive and less effective than the XSPC, with build quality issues as well? Unless the port orientation is that big of an issue, better off waiting for the Razor to be available (waiting for the black chrome to be up for sale myself).
 
More expensive and less effective than the XSPC, with build quality issues as well? Unless the port orientation is that big of an issue, better off waiting for the Razor to be available (waiting for the black chrome to be up for sale myself).

XSPC seems to be equal to EK ones.
Then you have the rest.
 
All in all, having used Swiftech, XSPC, EK and Heatkiller blocks........

1) any nickle plated anything will generally have a smudge or two somewhere. They are bling with no definate advantage.
2) I think all in all, the basic waterblock, Acetal and Copper, no frills, no disco lights, are the best to use and the cheapest, generally around 100 bucks.
3) Given my experience, which I think is fairly broad when it comes to watercooling, I have never had issues of any kind with Heatkiller. The milling is always excellent, fit and finish likewise.
EK is a pretty close second.
I have had leaks and tarnishes and seals let go with my XSPC blocks.
I have had fit issues with Swiftech, but still have Swiftech radiators that are going strong after 10 years, likewise MCP 655 pumps.
 
Comparing the price of the cooling setup to the price of the card, as well as the realized gains, it seems like a no brainer to WC with a 1080 Ti, or Titan Xp, or Titan V when it comes out.
 
Hmm, I was looking forward to get the Phanteks block for my Asus Strix 1080Ti OC Edition but now you got me thinking. I hate having issues with assembly.

I haven't found any review with such issues for the Asus Strix edition but will look into this. Anyone using it here?
 
So given the difference in ambient you mentioned, they work essentially the same. With the build issues this would be a solid :(.

They use center flow but have apparently huge fins. The mis-alignments are just unacceptable.

Hmm, I was looking forward to get the Phanteks block for my Asus Strix 1080Ti OC Edition but now you got me thinking. I hate having issues with assembly.

I haven't found any review with such issues for the Asus Strix edition but will look into this. Anyone using it here?

I went with the Barrow Strix 10X0 Nickel/Plex block, which I figure would fit the Ti. I did have to clean a little trash out of the cooling engine fins, but it lines up perfectly, seats well, and lets you use the stock backplate (can contrast the block and backplate LEDs). At a 100 bux to your door from Amazon (Prime), it was a good deal. I get mid-high 30s C at load on the 1070 using a 360x60 radiator with a 5GHz 7700K in font of it in the loop (22-23C Ambient). It's running 2.1/9GHz, and was recently switched to PK-3 paste and new pads (the originals were compressed enough I wanted to get fresh ones for a restick). I'll admit to never being a fan of Phanteks, usually sticking with EK or Heatkiller for GPU blocks, but this worked out well.

That being said, it looks like even the Ti can't really stress a decent water block. So in the end, it's the fit and finish that matter rather then the absolute performance.

Keep em coming guys, I'm loving the reinvigorated WC coverage.
 
Thanks for the review.

I was really cut when it was released as I'd literally just bought a kyrographics card as this would have matched up perfectly.

The Vyton O rings are amazing as well, I've got them in my Phanteks fittings and they stand up to so much abuse it's not funny.
 
I noticed in the installation guide for flow direction, the in arrow actually means out and the out arrow means in. Is that a mistake or is the engineer responsible retarded?
 
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