pelt for a overclocked QX6700

[LOCO LAPTOP]

I already have watercooling but its time to kick it up a bit. but I got questions on what to go for.

peltier it self. how many watts do I need to kick this thing 3.6 to 3.8 without worrying about cooling? * I can get it to 3.8 stable but temps are high*

Its powersupply, http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...e=product_info&cPath=22_161&products_id=20967 That should be right?

What about condensation? If I do anything to cover my motherboard up will it void the warrenty?

And Is it worth the trouble?

 

[mwarps]

You are aware that if your temps are currently high, they will only get higher, right?

A peltier is not some sort of magical device that removes heat. It generates a shitpot of heat, also.

1) Your system is removing heat too slowly to cool your chip well.

2) If you add a peltier, you will add on whatever it's rated capacity is, plus probably 50% more power in the form of heat.

If you want to get a cooler chip, start upgrading your watercooling setup.

 

[LOCO LAPTOP]

eh well i got 2 3x120 rads
My system now:

 

[mwarps]

Looks like over 600 watts of heat, too.

226W peltier, for example
15.2V, 24 A
226W of heat moved.

590W in addition to what you're already doing. You'll boil off your water.

 

[ghost6303]

actually a pelter that draws 226 watts of power only moves somewhere around 140-160watts of heat, they are extremely inefficient. if you need to move 600 watts of heat you better get yourself a dedicated 1kW power supply specificly for running the pelter. with energy prices where they are these days you might as well go phase.

 

[calebb]

I built a BP6 with 2x celeron 400's @ 600 with water cooled peltiers a few years back. With Alpha (pin-fin) heatsinks (all the rage back then), my CPU's would run at ~41C under load. With Alpha HSF-cooled pelts, they would run at 10C or less under load. With water cooled pelts (ghetto home-made waterblocks made from jbweld and copper pipe fittings), they would go down to -25C or so. (I painted the motherboard with waterproofing material).
My radiator wasn't particularly impressive - just a heater core from a 1988 Escort and 2 80mm fans.

The peltiers do generate additional waste heat, but they do a great job creating a ΔT between your water temperature and your CPU temperature.

If your CPU temperature is indeed holding you back, then decreasing the temp would help! As other people mentioned, upgrading your water cooling system might be a better bang for your buck - you probably don't need to cool your CPU down to 10C to increase your stability at 3.8GHz.

I used an external, regulated power supply for the peltiers. I strongly recommend this. The power they draw can vary based on temperatures, CPU load, etc - it just makes sense to have them powered by a dedicated power supply. Additionally, tetech's higher-end peltiers have maximum efficiency at higher voltages. I used an 18V / 50A rack-mount PSU I bought on eBay for $40 (and $40 for shipping since it weighed a ton). (remotely switched via +5V off my ATX psu)

There's additional risk - if the peltiers malfunction, they make an excellent thermal insulator to ensure your CPU gets toasty hot. (But newer processors have thermal protection, so you might be OK in case of peltier malfunction).

Then of course there's the mechanical clamping requirements. I think that newer pelts and core 2 processors actually have similar requirements. Peltiers require surprisingly large pressures for maximum efficiency.

And don't forget about condensation unless you regulate the peltier voltage to keep them above the dewpoint...