Part 2 (was Ill call it green in case mod gallery - Ill Call this Waterworld...

Ah, IC.

How about putting your spare green ccd's under the ext box to give it that 'floaty' look? You'd need to put feet on it though.
 
hmmm... I like it.... More MODDING!! I love it...

I will do something with them... I like the way you think!
 
Some updates for temps..

Did some Video card testing using the rtbl video test...

Old tests was 72C with stock cooling..

the artic Cooler reduced that to 62 C

And now with the maze 4..... 48C after 40 minutes of running the program.. it never broke 48 C.

I also used Rivatuner's "find optimized frequency"

Stock of course is 350/1000 with the artic cooler it was 372/1120
With Maze 4 it was 438/1170

Haven't actually pushed it to see what i could get

Lets see, i did notice that when I ran Rtbl and Folding at home at the same time, CPU temps jumped a little from 48-49, to 51.

Thats about it for now! I still need to get it set up in place, and take some final pics!
 
Sounds like the system is doing well for you.................. :eek: The card clocks looh pretty good................... :D
 
yup working great so far!!!!

Yeah a 20% oc on the VC is a nice OC, and im sure i can get it a little higher if i wanted to push.

WIsh the CPU would stay closer to 45C, i may turned the OC down some.. or at some point, ad another Rad!

Thanks for all the help bio!

Chris
 
:D :D You could always use some higher speed fans while OC'ing and turn them down while doing everyday things................ :eek:
 
true, something to think about.. but it would almot be easier to add a rad, seeing what apain it was to install the fans on that grill and rad.... :)
 
Second rads are almost always better...........;) More surface area = better cooling and at a lower noise level..............:)
 
Well, a little update on some temps.

Also I have some final pics, and some words on UV and Primoflex.. but ill save that for the ics.... cant upload the pics right now... snapfish is down.

Well, I noticed my temps have creeped on... like 40C on idle, and 51ish on load.... So i decided to check the block.. and I decided it wasn't tight enough... so a 1.5 turn on eahc side... and POOF! Temps are rocking..

Idle is 34-36C, and load now is 45-47C, rock solid...

Very happy with the system... its working create..

hopefully tommorrow, some final pics and talk of UV!

Chris
 
The correct install pressure works wonders, to bad it takes a bit of trial and error to find it .................. :eek: Yuor temps are looking very good................... :D
 
yup, real good considering I have it Oc'ed, 800mhz from 1.8 to 2.5

For fun I set it back to stock just to see...

28C idle, 38C overclocked.

testing is fun!
 
That's what I get out of mine OC'd, but I've got a little extra radiator surface area ............... ;)

Idle:
temp260bs.jpg
 
Bio-Hazard said:
That's what I get out of mine OC'd, but I've got a little extra radiator surface area ............... ;)

Idle:
temp260bs.jpg
Click to expand...

Wow, nice temps. How cool is your room? Also, what block are you using?

I have a d-tek WW with my external setup in the works, but I am wondering whether or not I should get a new block. The storm is just so expensive...
 
Room temp is normal room temp, heat is set at 72F, might be a little warmer in here though as there are always 3 systems running................... :eek:
I've got the Swifty Strom block right now, I had the PolarFlo TT before, about a degree or so differance between the 2 blocks.

Load Temps: Running Prime95 and ATI Tool Artifact checker together.................... :D

temp343yw.jpg
 
man im still not sure ive got the right install pressure. for that matter i may have mine too tight? is there such a thing?
 
ok heres my deal on the tubing and UV.

I have 2 kinds of tubing in my case, the primoflex

Primo flex

and some clearflex from crazy PC

clearflex

Now the clearflex just would not make the bends inside my system, i got serious kinking. So i did use a little of it inside the external box, becuase I ran out of the primo stuff.

Then I added a whole bottle of this:

venom green

uvvenomgreenfull.jpg



hoping for a result like this

uvvenomgreenexamplefull.jpg


But the Water just wouldn't glow inside the tubing, and I used the Danger den MCT-5 MCT-5 which is uv-green reactive too, so it should REALLY be glowing....

Then I take a peak at the Clearflex tubing...(upper right tubing) and its glowing just FINE! So this means the primoflex wont let the water glow throuh.. which pretty much stinks.

232323232%7Ffp7%3Enu%3D3244%3E9%3A3%3E699%3EWSNRCG%3D3232%3C896%3B6%3A87nu0mrj


So then I thought, maybe I need more powerful dye.. and the dangerden stuff is supposed to be real powerful, so I bought some of that.

uv lite

and when it came, it looked like this

232323232%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E2335%3D%3A94%3D78%3A%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B987%3A79%3A3ot1lsi


so then I added 1 DROP to a glass of water.. and got this glow

232323232%7Ffp64%3Dot%3E2335%3D%3A94%3D78%3A%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B987%3A7993ot1lsi


So im thinking, great maye If i add enough of this stuff, it will glow...

But a half a bottle later... Nope no glow.... its just not meant to be with that primo tubing... i think next time, ill try the McMaster stuff.
I do like the non-glow green color I achieved though.. All in all, very satisfied.

If I had to do it all over again, I would do a few things different. Slighty smaller external box, 1 more rad, quiter fans, maybe a different ressie, and diffenently different tubing.

232323232%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E2335%3D%3A94%3D78%3A%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B987%3A79%3A7ot1lsi


232323232%7Ffp64%3Dot%3E2335%3D%3A94%3D78%3A%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B987%3A79%3B3ot1lsi

232323232%7Ffp45%3Dot%3E2335%3D%3A94%3D78%3A%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B987%3A79%3A%3Aot1lsi


232323232%7Ffp46%3Dot%3E2335%3D%3A94%3D78%3A%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B987%3A79%3B5ot1lsi

232323232%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E2335%3D%3A94%3D78%3A%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B987%3A79%3B9ot1lsi


232323232%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E2335%3D%3A94%3D78%3A%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B987%3A79%3C2ot1lsi

232323232%7Ffp64%3Dot%3E2335%3D%3A94%3D78%3A%3DXROQDF%3E2323%3B987%3A%3A7%3C8ot1lsi
 
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awesome project.. anychance you could get me some pics of the 120 exaust on your case.. been trying to figure out how to put a 120 in the same case in the back.. but I can't figure it out T-T
 
thanks guys really appreciate it..

As for the 120 fan, it came with a 120. It has a 120 in the front and back, all i did was take out the 120 it came with, and replaced it with one that glows green. All i did was reuse the screws that were in the 120 that came with the case... not sure what else you would need ot know :)
Im guessing your thinking of the LL's that look kind of like my case, but has 80's?
 
That's a different case.............. :eek: I've seen people make ones like that before, but that's the first retail one I've seen.
 
how do you like your typhoon res? Mine seems to swirl the small bit of air thats in it and ends up making so small bubbles that they end up getting sucked into the bottom intake and into the pump...

Not sure if its the distilled and hydrx making things too bubble or just bad res design.
 
i personally love it. So easy to read water level, and it was easy to install. I got some bubbles when the water level was low, or if the res is not level, if its tilted, you can get afew bubbles, if its not filled above little divider wall in the middle of it. But if i keep it level, and filled, i get no bubbles. I am used MCT-5 though, so not sure if thats making a difference, its slightly thicker than water. But over all, I have loved it as a res, no issues at all.
 
I got mine level and fuilled past the fillcap and my bubbles stil lend up swuirlling into the loop. I think hydrx + my water tends to help things bubble over, i might add a little zerex fluid.
 
thanks man, it was a blast to build, and it came out better than I thought it would.

I cant wait for my second mod!
 
brad, we should combine forces and make a couple external phase change enclosures ;-)

I got two kenmore 5400btu/hr window AC's in my basement with all we need for -20 to -40degree temps :)
 
(The title will become evident in a sec...)

Hi. I've been looking round the Internet for a Mountain Mods U2-UFO case. I did a google Image search on... well... Google (duh!) and came across this thread??? I know, weird.

Anyway, I became hooked!

No sorry, tell a lie. I came to the "Part 1" thread, and then followed the hyperlink to this one, and read all 8 pages.

Very nice setup. I'm into blue colours myself, and although I didn't think I'd ever move over to green, you have got me thinking. (Definitely won't be red - or yellow (sorry to one of the posters who said this).)

[That's the title dealt with.]

The only thing I'd probably try and change in your system - if it was mine, would be to root the WC cables so that they went up to the top back right of your PC (if viewed from the front), and straight into the cooling unit, pretty much.

I'm not a fan of trailing wires, never have been. Then again, that's surely "half" the appeal of your system - seeing water flow back and forth between the two boxes.

I'm really impressed, as I've said.

Now, on with the search for the UFO...

BR,MC
 
thanks for the kind words. I am real proud of the way it came out. Yes, you are correct the whole point of the tubes was too see them, it was designed intentionally that way. The PC sits in a room where a lot of people see it, so i wanted the water to be seen.

You probably got sent to this link, becuase Bio-hazard(a poster in the link here) has a mountain mods UFO case, and it says it in his sig, so the search you did probably picked that up... im sure he would be glad to answer any of your questions!
 
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