P8P67 PRO bites the dust -- did it take my 2500K along with it?

Joined
Feb 17, 2012
Messages
4
The System:
Antec P182
i5-2500K (oc'ed turbo boost to 4.4ghz)
Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme
G.Skill DDR3 1600 (2 x 4gb)
P8P67 PRO (rev3) --> P8Z68-V/GEN3
Corsair HX520

Probably not exactly thinking straight after spending a sleepless night trying to decipher this issue, but I'll try my best to explain in hopes that one of you has the answer... :)
Woke up yesterday and my desktop had shut itself off during the night (had left it up to convert a video for eventual youtube upload). Hitting power results in a quick 1/2 second spin of the fans, blinking of the CPU & MEMOK LEDs, and then nothing until the PSU is switched off and on again. Went through all the usual troubleshooting steps (disconnect all drives / cards, reset CMOS, take out battery, reseat CPU/RAM, boot with just one DIMM... though a bit cynically, since this system had been running fine for almost a year) and hit up the interwebs to see post upon post of dead P8P67s, most disturbingly: http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153835

Went out to Microcenter and picked up a P8Z68-V/GEN3 as a replacement to try out -- hooked it all up and this time had power to fans/drives. CPU_LED blinks red momentarily and clears, followed by the MEMOK_LED, which stays solid red. No amount of CMOS clears / RAM reseats / MEMOK button pressed resolved the issue... so I tried another stick of DDR3 from a working system and had the same problem, so I ruled out memory. Maybe my Corsair PSU's on its last legs... (~5 years now)?

This one's got me stumped as to what it could be -- my gut is saying it's the processor [doesn't help that there's plenty of threads out there with people describing dead 2600ks from P8P67s], but I don't have another one on-hand to try (and returning a CPU to Microcenter is a nightmare). Heading back out to Microcenter again today... and wondering if I should:
a) Swap the motherboard for another P8Z68-V/GEN3 in case I just got a lemon?
b) Pick up a (gulp) 2500K in case my current one is dead?
c) Forget the Asus boards and get something else?

Any help/advice is greatly appreciated -- many thanks in advance.
 
Joined
Nov 12, 2007
Messages
860
Without trying a different CPU you can never be 100% sure it's the CPU. If you can afford to buy another to test i'd try that first before spending hours trying other options.
 

SixFootDuo

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Oct 5, 2004
Messages
5,824
It's hard to say.

One thing I've learned a long long LONG time ago. Always discharge / ground yourself while building your pc and handling those parts that can and do add up into the hundreds and even thousands of dollars. You don't really need an anti-static mat / wrist guard but it doesn't hurt. Just continuously discharge / ground yourself by touching two separate pieces of metal near you.

Doing this will ensure that you don't inadvertently kill off your mobo, memory, cpu, graphics card, sound card, etc. And yes, I've walked across my living-room in the past, picked up my small tool box and then a cheapie sound card I had laying across some anti-static film and in a brief nano second, saw a tiny arc of blue static electricity jump from my finger to the sound card. And yes, I killed the card.

Again, hard saying how or what happened.

Another trick you can use that I've heard of guys doing at Microcenter is, if you have the extra money and a heat-gun and they have OEM 2500 - 2600k cpu in those little oblong black boxes with the white price stickers. Buy one. Use the heat gun to loosen the sticker and gently peel it away being careful not to rip the sticker. You can then use the cpu to test out the new / old motherboard and get some answers. Then, once you are done. Clean up the cpu, put it back in the box, seal it and return it for a refund. This is quasi-legal but a gray area nonetheless. Just don't O/C the cpu to test it's limits and don't you dare exchange the burnt out cpu keeping the good one.

Also, before you've closed the book on this chapter and tossed the board into your closet into your box'o pc parts of shame, we all have a few. Make sure you've removed the battery, reset the bios and all those sorts of things.

I killed a 2600k cpu last year but not the motherboard when I was in the bios and accidentally left one of the cores at a different freq than the other 3. In that split second right before I hit F10 to save and exit, I was very tired and not paying attention, just barely mindful of my actions, it was too late, the system reset and like that, the 2600k was toast. Somehow the board survived. I tried that cpu in 2 other boards and it was d e a d ... probably one of the oddest circumstances of killing a cpu that I've ever seen.
 

Falkentyne

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 19, 2000
Messages
1,822
It was posted that in a support chat, an Intel rep said to stay UNDER 1.65v DDR (1.59v max) if you are putting more than 1.4v into the CPU. Running at <1.65v at 4.2 ghz and 1.25v vcore isn't going to kill anything.
 

Gordo74

Gawd
Joined
Mar 1, 2011
Messages
862
To me it sounds like a PSU issue, even the first one. I would have tested the PSU first.
 

cisco guy

2[H]4U
Joined
Jul 23, 2002
Messages
2,277
same issue across two dif vers mobo means CPU or PSU
If you are using EXACT same components with both then can be DVD going bye bye (unplug it) or flakey cables or vidcard needs a clean up (try VGA onboard with "V" board)
Warm boot works may mean weak +5VSB
I would first try new el cheapo WIRED mouse/KB
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2012
Messages
4
Thanks for the suggestions -- just tried both old and new motherboards with a SeaSonic X-760; exact same results... looks like the CPU :(
 

cisco guy

2[H]4U
Joined
Jul 23, 2002
Messages
2,277
If you touched pads on CPU underside could do it after a while
Try contact cleaner quick evaporing and use CD wipe to eliminate finger touches
 

Paragon

Gawd
Joined
Mar 12, 2003
Messages
546
I have had a Corsair PSU go bad. I was assuming it was the 5V Standby rail that went out and could not get the system to boot until I tried a different supply. It would power fans and voltages checked fine but it would not power the system on. Perfect example of how useless the "paperclip" test is.

Try a different supply. Good chance your motherboard was good.
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2012
Messages
4
Paragon, I tried a Seasonic X-760 both on the old and new motherboards -- see my post above.

Board was just under a year old -- replaced back in the whole SATA corruption recall in March 2011. P8P67 Pro board is dead -- tried it with the new processor and it still exhibits the same symptoms.

Looks like this board can and will kill your processor :(
 

JCNiest5

2[H]4U
Joined
Apr 25, 2005
Messages
4,012
Paragon, I tried a Seasonic X-760 both on the old and new motherboards -- see my post above.

Board was just under a year old -- replaced back in the whole SATA corruption recall in March 2011. P8P67 Pro board is dead -- tried it with the new processor and it still exhibits the same symptoms.

Looks like this board can and will kill your processor :(

Get both the board and CPU RMAed. They should still be under warranty. Then sell them to help fund an IB/Z77 system. The way to go!
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2006
Messages
655
yikes, so it was 100% fine for nearly a year then died? I got my board in March of 2011, I hope it holds up as it has been fine for the past 11 months.
 
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