Official ASUS P8P67 Series Overclocking Guide and Information

Actually no. If you go into the bios on a fresh overclock attempt, and just start putting in +.020 or whatever in the offset and set your multi to say, 48 -- when you boot up the bios will set your voltage to - in my case, 1.5 or so automatically -- which is not cool.

However, you can set the voltage manually to .020 or whatever you need under the stable OC voltage, reboot, then set your offset to compensate for the difference. Problem for me is that my chip is 4.8ghz stable at 1.365v. If I set voltage manually to 1.335, reboot and set offset to +0.30 - .040 it is not stable even though I'm at equal or higher voltage according to CPU-Z. Bit strange.

Adding the offset voltage to a manual voltage, for me, still allowed the system to downvolt to .9 to 1.03v at idle.

Are you saying that offset uses the previously set "manual" voltage as its base? I was under the impression that offset always uses the VID as its base.
 
Interesting. Doesn't seem like it should do that, but nice that it does. Unless that means it is just ignoring what you put in the manual field, and just applying the offset to whatever it wants (same as auto).

That didn't sound right, I had to take a look. I"m sure you are correct. There are 2 options, manual "or" offset. Not "manual "and" offset. Choice is one or the other, not both. You can choose offset then manually set the offset value to add more voltage or subtract from whatever the system thinks it should be at the multiplier you set. I've been using offset exactly that way for the last couple days. I didn't like how high the system chose at 100%, so I added a negative value in the offset field.
 
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I have read on another forum Intel says dont touch bclk, leave it at 100 or you could damage your cpu. Asus overclocking tools adjust bclk, does anyone know the real story on this?
 
That didn't sound right, I had to take a look. I"m sure you are correct. There are 2 options, manual "or" offset. Not "manual "and" offset. Choice is one or the other, not both. You can choose offset then manually set the offset value to add more voltage or subtract from whatever the system thinks it should be at the multiplier you set. I've been using offset exactly that way for the last couple days. I didn't like how high the system chose at 100%, so I added a negative value in the offset field.

I agree there is only one or the other and I have the offset at + and set 0.035 for a 4.6 OC. I find it strange and doesn't feel right but its all new anyone else using this offset with roughly these values.
 
This thread helped. :)

Iwinv2.png
 
I agree there is only one or the other and I have the offset at + and set 0.035 for a 4.6 OC. I find it strange and doesn't feel right but its all new anyone else using this offset with roughly these values.

I'm using offset, and I've found that it doesn't work too well in conjunction with LLC. For example, I thought that I was stable at 44x with an offset of -0.02V and LLC set to high (50%), but I was only really stable at full load because that's when LLC compensates for vdroop. Otherwise, my idle and partially loaded voltages were too low. Now I'm running 43x with an offset of +0.03V and LLC off, and I'm pretty sure (I hope) that I'm fully stable now. YMMV, so you should play around with it and find what works best for you.
 
This thread helped. :)

Iwinv2.png

Grats, thats a sexy OC there...

Waitin on my taxes for extra play money to add another Asus MB to the stable and play with the new K series, but you guys are making it very hard not to snag one early! Thx Juan for all the insite.
 
Grats, thats a sexy OC there...

Waitin on my taxes for extra play money to add another Asus MB to the stable and play with the new K series, but you guys are making it very hard not to snag one early! Thx Juan for all the insite.

Yeah, this was going to be my 2nd gaming pc until I saw the big difference this one makes. Makes my 4.4ghz i7 on x58 look bad.
 
I'm using offset, and I've found that it doesn't work too well in conjunction with LLC. For example, I thought that I was stable at 44x with an offset of -0.02V and LLC set to high (50%), but I was only really stable at full load because that's when LLC compensates for vdroop. Otherwise, my idle and partially loaded voltages were too low. Now I'm running 43x with an offset of +0.03V and LLC off, and I'm pretty sure (I hope) that I'm fully stable now. YMMV, so you should play around with it and find what works best for you.

I have 44x with offset set at -.01v and it has been stable with everything I have tried. I tried 45x before settling on 44x. 45x was stable at high loads but BSOD on lower loads. Maybe Asus can tweak the offset to add a little more voltage when the cpu is not loaded since it works quite well at high loads. It seemed pretty apparent that is what was happening and looks like that is your experience too.
 
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I'm stable at 4.8 GHz using the recommended settings (see sig for differences).

I'm stable at 4.9 GHz under load, but when the load drops (like when folding@home sends stats), the CPU may reset. I've tried CPU Voltage offset +0.02V and setting manual voltage at 1.415.

IntelBurnTest runs fine at 4.9GHz under both settings with CPU temp at 85C. Prime95 and Folding@Home 64-bit SMP for Windows run with CPU temp below 80C.

I can run at 5.0 GHz with Folding@Home, but IntelBurnTest will case BSOD (missed timer interrupt).

Anyway, how can I address the issue of removing the load and getting a reset?

Another question, the recommended VRM frequency is 350 MHz, but the BIOS allows higher settings. What is still considered safe? Would it help to increase this to 375 MHz? Ideally, I'd like to run with CPU Voltage in offset mode.

BTW, thanks for the great post and getting me past 4.5 GHz with Auto settings. Much appreciated!
 
I can pass 20x of LinX Stress Test @5Ghz (50x100) using 1.500v, which too high for my liking, so I'm not going to stick to this OCed speed. OCing I'm just doing for fun, I never run my system at the OCed state. Just know that my CPU can OC gratifies me already, but running it regular at the OCed speed, nah...
 
I have read on another forum Intel says dont touch bclk, leave it at 100 or you could damage your cpu. Asus overclocking tools adjust bclk, does anyone know the real story on this?
I would also like to know this. I only got a non-K i5-2500 at the moment and using this guide:
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/over...-overclocking-guide-beginners.html#post110980
Allows the non-K's to OC to 4Ghz and possibly higher but involves a higher BCLK.
4Ghz is great and i wouldn't really go higher for a 24/7 usage anyway so i may just keep my non-K if i can confirm a BCLK of ~105 wont harm anything over time.

And thank you for the info Juan
 
I'm running at 4.6GHz but with my Xigmatek HDT-S1283 cooler one of my cores hit 76C during the hour I ran Prime95. Despite that my system is completely stable.

Since that temp is a bit too high for my tastes, so I'm upgrading it with a Noctua NH-D14, which got a good review on FrostyTech and is rated at #4 on their Top 5 Heatsinks list.

The only thing I don't like about the NH-D14 is it uses a 3-pin fan connection for both fans (vs 4-pin on my existing HDT-S1283), and from what I know a 4-pin connection is required for fan control on my P8P67 Deluxe. Is that correct? If so, I could connect it to my fan controller on the front of my case and use that to set it to the speed I desire since it accepts 3-pin connectors.
 
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from what I know a 4-pin connection is required for fan control on my P8P67 Deluxe
4-pin is needed, i use the corsair h70 and the fans are only 3-pin, i can't control speed and the q-fan option isn't working either, they run at 100% regardless what setting i use.
 
4-pin is needed, i use the corsair h70 and the fans are only 3-pin, i can't control speed and the q-fan option isn't working either, they run at 100% regardless what setting i use.

That settles it then. I'll try it out with the CPU fan connector to see how loud the NH-D14 is at 100% speed. If I don't like how loud it is I'll move it to my fan controller so I can adjust the speed.
 
That settles it then. I'll try it out with the CPU fan connector to see how loud the NH-D14 is at 100% speed. If I don't like how loud it is I'll move it to my fan controller so I can adjust the speed.

I find the fan noise is acceptable, but it's definitely noticeable. Actually sounds more like the sound of air moving, than mechanical parts moving. I have not tried playing with the ultra low noise adapters which reduce fan RPM from 1200/1300 to 900/900, but that could be an option for the Noctua.
 
Does anyone else have problems resuming from standby with this board? I just did a clean windows 7 install and don't know what could be causing my problem. Computer will go to sleep but crashes on resume (just see a black screen) and I have to hold down the power button to shut down then restart my system
 
I'm using offset, and I've found that it doesn't work too well in conjunction with LLC. For example, I thought that I was stable at 44x with an offset of -0.02V and LLC set to high (50%), but I was only really stable at full load because that's when LLC compensates for vdroop. Otherwise, my idle and partially loaded voltages were too low. Now I'm running 43x with an offset of +0.03V and LLC off, and I'm pretty sure (I hope) that I'm fully stable now. YMMV, so you should play around with it and find what works best for you.

LLC is just no go with the cpu offset as far as my experience, so I turned that off.

I thought I was stable with negative offset, but no go, prime fails, while LinX passes. Switched to +0.035 and I no problems getting into Windows, but prime fails after 2 hours. Put +0.045 and prime fails exactly after 2 hours. Same results with +0.055, but prime gets fully stable only after +0.060..
 
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Does anyone else have problems resuming from standby with this board? I just did a clean windows 7 install and don't know what could be causing my problem. Computer will go to sleep but crashes on resume (just see a black screen) and I have to hold down the power button to shut down then restart my system

If you have PLL Overvoltage enabled, that is likely causing it. It is not the only cause, but it is almost certain to screw up sleep if it is turned on.
 
Does anyone else have problems resuming from standby with this board? I just did a clean windows 7 install and don't know what could be causing my problem. Computer will go to sleep but crashes on resume (just see a black screen) and I have to hold down the power button to shut down then restart my system

Have you overclocked your CPU? I didn't have the issue until I did that.

I just got through a complete CMOS reset including pulling the battery, so I'll test Sleep later with my overclock to see if Windows comes out properly.

From reading the other posts this is a bug with the BIOS, which hopefully they can resolve soon. This is the second board from ASUS that I have had Sleep issues with, and they never solved them on the other board. I really hope they do with this one.

If you have PLL Overvoltage enabled, that is likely causing it. It is not the only cause, but it is almost certain to screw up sleep if it is turned on.

I forgot about that. If I continue to have Sleep issues with my overclock I'll turn it off.

I find the fan noise is acceptable, but it's definitely noticeable. Actually sounds more like the sound of air moving, than mechanical parts moving. I have not tried playing with the ultra low noise adapters which reduce fan RPM from 1200/1300 to 900/900, but that could be an option for the Noctua.

That is great. I'm not too sensitive to fan noise as long as it doesn't sound like a jet engine. I'll probably be fine with it running at 100%.
 
I'm stable at 4.8 GHz using the recommended settings (see sig for differences).

I'm stable at 4.9 GHz under load, but when the load drops (like when folding@home sends stats), the CPU may reset. I've tried CPU Voltage offset +0.02V and setting manual voltage at 1.415.

IntelBurnTest runs fine at 4.9GHz under both settings with CPU temp at 85C. Prime95 and Folding@Home 64-bit SMP for Windows run with CPU temp below 80C.

I can run at 5.0 GHz with Folding@Home, but IntelBurnTest will case BSOD (missed timer interrupt).

Anyway, how can I address the issue of removing the load and getting a reset?

Another question, the recommended VRM frequency is 350 MHz, but the BIOS allows higher settings. What is still considered safe? Would it help to increase this to 375 MHz? Ideally, I'd like to run with CPU Voltage in offset mode.

BTW, thanks for the great post and getting me past 4.5 GHz with Auto settings. Much appreciated!

LLC is just no go with the cpu offset as far as my experience, so I turned that off.

I thought I was stable with negative offset, but no go, prime fails, while LinX passes. Switched to +0.035 and I no problems getting into Windows, but prime fails after 2 hours. Put +0.045 and prime fails exactly after 2 hours. Same results with +0.055, but prime gets fully stable only after +0.060..


It should be the LLC. The symptom of instability after loads drops is the problem of LLC becoz the peak voltage is over the intel specification. I would turn LLC off as this will damage ur proc.
 
If you have PLL Overvoltage enabled, that is likely causing it. It is not the only cause, but it is almost certain to screw up sleep if it is turned on.

Thanks for the reminder about this. Once I set this to Disabled I was finally able to get Sleep working properly when overclocking.
 
I'm not sure if this has been suggested yet, but it would be awesome if we had the option to set the voltage manually for the turbo multiplier while keeping default voltages for the non-turbo multipliers.
 
I'm not sure if this has been suggested yet, but it would be awesome if we had the option to set the voltage manually for the turbo multiplier while keeping default voltages for the non-turbo multipliers.

Offset mode kind of does that. Not exactly but close.
 
I'm not sure if this has been suggested yet, but it would be awesome if we had the option to set the voltage manually for the turbo multiplier while keeping default voltages for the non-turbo multipliers.

Offset mode kind of does that. Not exactly but close.

My biggest complaint with offset in conjunction with EIST and C1E is that single-core load voltage is less than all-cores load voltage. This is a source of instability when used together with load line calibration. Now, what I'm suggesting is that by setting the voltage manually for turbo mode the voltage should be the same whether it's one core in turbo mode or all cores in turbo mode.
 
Hi guys,

there is some very useful info in this thread!

I got a p8p67-m pro board with a 2600k installed and 16gb ram. One thing i will have to admit upfront is that the ram is 3x4gb from a triple channel kit and 1x4gb from another manufacturer. However they are all 9-9-9-24 and 1.5v DDR3, so i dont see why they should be the cause of these issues. Also the system runs just fine, but i have made a few worrying observations and would like to know whether anyone can help.

I managed to work my way up to about 4.8Ghz on the initial bios version 0404 I

It was stable enough to run windows just fine, P95 would usually terminate on one of the cores at least after a while. So i decided to take it easy and went for 4.6Ghz with no voltage modification. This was was working just fine.

Then i upgraded to 0601, which worked just fine.

However I kept getting the CPU fan error (press f1 to continue) as i am using a fan controller and not the cpu fan socket.

So i figured 'fine, i will put one of my fans on the cpu fan socket to shut this thing up'.

After i did that i got an infinite boot-loop when trying to start the computer. It doesn't go into POST, my monitor does not come out of standby, it just turns on, stays on for a bit and then resets. Sometimes it turns itself off and doesn't come back, sometimes it stays in the bootloop for a while until it just stays on and sits there doing nothing.
The only way to fix this is to reset CMOS.

That's all fine. However, my problem is now that i cannot actually change any settings in the BIOS. Whenever i change ANYTHING the second i select "save and reset" the machine turns itself off and the infinite bootloop starts again.
I haven't managed to isolate the setting that does it yet. It seems i cannot run my ram at full speed either, so i have to choose 1066 instead of 1333. This is the best way of getting the system to boot properly.

Another thing i observed now is that i cannot overclock anymore. It is as if the mobo ignores what i put as turbo multiplier. In windows CPU-Z only ever shows 3.4Ghz when running P95. After that the processor scales down as expected, but it seems to never go past 3.4Ghz now.

*** is going on with this board, seriously :/
 
I5-2500K -4.5 OC LLC and Offset Voltage Observations.

- I have found that my OC was stable and heat just manageable with my Hyper 212 under full load with Manual voltage and ultra high and 350 VRM @ about 1.320Vcore
- Did not want to run this voltage 24/7 only when turboing under load
- Offset and Auto would down volt and upvolt depending on load but was excessively volting at 4.5 Ghz compared to what this processer needs.
- Tried using negative offset but found what was stable at high load 4 threads Prime 95 would reduce voltage too fast when going down to 2 threads and BSOD.
- Found changing LLC to Medium so it droops more under load and does not go as high at max load with a +.03 offset kept the voltage up enough under part load for stable operation.

Agree if future bios added a little more voltage at mid load and less at high turbo that would help.

- Patience and systematic testing of your CPU is Key

CPU – Intel i5-2500k - turbo upto 4.5 Ghz
Ram / Memory – 4 Gb Gskill 1600 cas 9
SSD (2) Intel X-25 G2 80 Gb in Raid 0 model SSDSA2MO80G2GC with Firmware Revision 2CV102M3
Controller used including port –Intel ports 1& 2 ( SATA 6G), 2 Intel X-25's in Raid 0 (operating system and programs), port 3 WD 2TB HD (backup), port 4 Optical Drive, port 5 & 6, Ports2 Seagate HD's in Raid 0( data),
Running Intel IRST 10.1.0.1008
Graphics Card – ATI 4830
Power Supply – Antec 500
OS – Win 7 home premium 64
UEFI options –
SATA - Raid mode
Tubo Multiplier 45- all cores
VRM Manual 350
LLC- Medium
Vcore - offset +.03
PLL enhance- disabled
 
Continue using the 1253 beta BIOS or install the official 1204 BIOS?

1253 works better for me. 1204 gives me super long POST problem. It took me about a minute before anything shows on the screen whereas it only takes 10-15 seconds for 1253. If 1253 works for you, don't bother flashing to 1204. Wait until 1301 comes out, then flash to it if you like.
 
I5-2500K -4.5 OC LLC and Offset Voltage Observations.

- I have found that my OC was stable and heat just manageable with my Hyper 212 under full load with Manual voltage and ultra high and 350 VRM @ about 1.320Vcore
- Did not want to run this voltage 24/7 only when turboing under load
- Offset and Auto would down volt and upvolt depending on load but was excessively volting at 4.5 Ghz compared to what this processer needs.
- Tried using negative offset but found what was stable at high load 4 threads Prime 95 would reduce voltage too fast when going down to 2 threads and BSOD.
- Found changing LLC to Medium so it droops more under load and does not go as high at max load with a +.03 offset kept the voltage up enough under part load for stable operation.

Agree if future bios added a little more voltage at mid load and less at high turbo that would help.

- Patience and systematic testing of your CPU is Key

CPU – Intel i5-2500k - turbo upto 4.5 Ghz
Ram / Memory – 4 Gb Gskill 1600 cas 9
SSD (2) Intel X-25 G2 80 Gb in Raid 0 model SSDSA2MO80G2GC with Firmware Revision 2CV102M3
Controller used including port –Intel ports 1& 2 ( SATA 6G), 2 Intel X-25's in Raid 0 (operating system and programs), port 3 WD 2TB HD (backup), port 4 Optical Drive, port 5 & 6, Ports2 Seagate HD's in Raid 0( data),
Running Intel IRST 10.1.0.1008
Graphics Card – ATI 4830
Power Supply – Antec 500
OS – Win 7 home premium 64
UEFI options –
SATA - Raid mode
Tubo Multiplier 45- all cores
VRM Manual 350
LLC- Medium
Vcore - offset +.03
PLL enhance- disabled

I also tried these settings and prime failed in minutes while IBT passed with no issues. Is your system prime stable?
 
I'm running a P8P67 pro with a 2500k at 5ghz, with the voltage set as 1.36v. I have speedstep off but the cpu still idles at 1.6ghz, then ramps up to 5ghz under load, is this working as intended? From your write up it makes it seem like disabling enhanced speedstep and speedstep would make it idle at 3.3ghz

Screen of some stress testing
 
I'm running a P8P67 pro with a 2500k at 5ghz, with the voltage set as 1.36v. I have speedstep off but the cpu still idles at 1.6ghz, then ramps up to 5ghz under load, is this working as intended? From your write up it makes it seem like disabling enhanced speedstep and speedstep would make it idle at 3.3ghz

Screen of some stress testing

I've found that disabling all C-states (C1/C3/C6) keeps the CPU at the turbo multiplier indefinitely even with EIST enabled.
 
I've found that disabling all C-states (C1/C3/C6) keeps the CPU at the turbo multiplier indefinitely even with EIST enabled.

I wouldn't recommend running the CPU constantly at the overclock speed, though. It wastes power and EIST/C-states are good about ramping up the clockspeed whenever there is load on the CPU.
 
HMZ

My system is prime stable for over an hour ( then I got bored and moved on to other things - like getting by X-25s working with SATA 6G ) with temperatures running 60-62 deg C.

I am using a Hyper 212 cooler in an Antec 300 case with front inlet fans and top discharge all on low speed - case has good air flow.

Every CPU is different - try 43 multiplier and if stable then try a slight bit more voltage +.035 or +.040 at 44 mult if your temps are OK

Sounds like you are close. Watch your overall voltage and temps so you don't crisp your CPU.

SJC
 
I have two main questions now that I have had my ASUS deluxe for more than a week

But first a sad story
When I first started putting together the board, I was assured by reviewers that this was the easiest board in the world to overclock - even your grandma can overclock it. So I figured I'd just throw it together real quick, set a few parameters in the bios and prob an easy 4.4GHz would be coming up shortly. The bios graphics were outstanding, and i couldnt wait to get going. Well about a full eight hours later I was still pulling my hair out. I could not overclock this damn thing over 100MHz past the default clock. I tried every option and combination thereof and no success. I was so mad, I was ready to switch over to a Gigabyte. I have better things to do with my time. Loading Win 7 on a new HDD went smoothly, never got the mem red light, never a BSOD or boot fail, or even a double boot. Everything was working fine, but wouldnt overclock in any mode. Rather strangely I was getting low 8 sec super pi's, so I though this chip must be a monster when you get up to like 4.6 or something. But I was getting all these sub 80 BCLK's which didnt make any sense, and crazy VCores like .88
Then somehow, I stumbled upon a post by someone else who had 78 BCLK multi's and the help post said use CPUID 1.56.1. Now i had gone to CPUID and got the latest there and it was 1.56, and I thought I was safe with Sandy Bridge with that. So the guy gave a link to the SB "REVIEWER" pak which included 1.5.1 and ran it and almost fell off my chair. I was running 4.8GHz.
The other CPUID was BSing me.
Thanks ASUS - did it ever occur to you to put the WORKING CPUID on the mobo support CD?
How many endusers could know this. Was I the only one that didnt?
Am I SUPPOSED to know this?
FWIW 1.56. beta 2 and beta 3 are around now
(end of mini rant)

Question 1:
The TPU switch on the mobo.
Should it be on or off.
Does ANYBODY here have it up (on)?
Under what condition should it be on?
Is it just for AI Suite?
What relationship does it have with the quick auto turbo one click overclock EZ mode.
Does it affect the "normal standard" turbo manual settings?
I flipped it up, light on mobo on, had a manual O/C going - booted, rebooted to bios, looked in bios, I was now in powersave mode, many of my setting changed in AI tweak.
WTF?

Question 2:
There are lots of posts on the net about SSD not being able to load Windows, drives disappearing or not seen in boot order, and SSD and spindle drives not cohabitating on same set of ports.
I have noted on another forum during a review of the P67 pro with lots of screenshots and the reviewer showed "Windows bootmanager" as picked option for first boot in BOOT tab
There is not one freakin word in the manual about the bootmanager choice, nor have I ever seen that as an option ever before. And you can pick it for any device. Once you pick it for the first bootable HDD that plus anything else bootable gets that "UEFI" strap on the front page boot icon. What the hell does that mean? The UEFI bios is handing off to Windows? Previously unseen devices appear. Can ANYONE tell me what the hell the bootmanager function in the bios does and what does that strap mean??

As I see it the windows bootmanager choice in the BOOT tab and avail for all devices listed I suspect would fix all missing or non windows loading problems. The dual boot prob is just bios telling Windows theres other stuff here, until windows sees it's not bootable.
And thats why you needed to disable other controllers/RAID cards when loading an O/S

The following looks to be a Win 7 install on a SSD from a bootable Win 7 USB with a driver USB also inserted
vo7dqv.jpg

30m4x1y.jpg


ASUS: EXPLAIN bootmanager option!!
EXPLAIN UEFI strap accross HDD corner!!

Thnx in advance
I would PM Juan but hasnt been around for a week
 
I would also be very interested in finding out more about the TPU switch. What does it actually do?
 
I went with the 100x50 overclock on my 2500k and it is very stable even when running prime95 etc. My temp is usually about 32-25c when surfing or idling and about 43-48 when gaming.
 
I was able to OC my 2500k on Asus p8p67 pro to 100x48. It was linpack stable for 2 hours but bsod after 1 hr of gaming. Should I try some other method of testing CPU stability?
 
I was able to OC my 2500k on Asus p8p67 pro to 100x48. It was linpack stable for 2 hours but bsod after 1 hr of gaming. Should I try some other method of testing CPU stability?

Try Prime95 Small FTT - seems to be hard on SB chips.
 
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