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Discussion in 'nVidia Flavor' started by HardOCP News, Jul 22, 2016.
Heck yea its worth it. I'd rather have that than a ti and its cheaper than the ti isn't it at 700?
I mean if I manage to get it I'd probably sell it for a small profit and buy some aib ti or even simply aib 1080 as I sold mine recently for some other reasons.
That's never worth the effort and chance, small profit vs chance of getting screwed two ways (buying and selling) or not making much money to due to costs of doing business.
I would not pay that for a used Titan X when you can buy a brand new GTX 1080 Ti with better reference cooler that's just as fast or faster for the same price.
The Titan X (Pascal) is still great but maybe a hair slower than a 1080 Ti (I've had both). You can get a 1080 Ti starting at around $700, so you're probably better off getting the Ti new (with warranty, etc.) unless you were getting a sick deal on the Titan.
Under water and overclocked the Titans are faster. Refer to the 3dmark HOF, all around single gpu 1x scoring, there are hardly any 1080ti on the leaderboard. Look at the heavier Firestrike workload tests like Ultra and Extreme, hell even regular FS. On average I think there should be a heck of a lot more representation in the top 100 for a card that is supposed to be faster. The ti does catch a break on the less intensive gpu test in Timespy though.
^^^ This. If you are going to waterblock, then a Titan X (Pascal) is faster and also has more VRAM. If you don't go H2O, then go for a new 1080Ti with a warranty.
Got my Arctic Xtreme III installed, I'd never replaced the cooler on at GPU and it took me over 2 hours, but it's working great. My temps went from ~87C max to ~63C max. No more thermal throttling and I can actually put an overclock on it now. I'm incredibly pleased with how it's working and wish I would've done this when I first got the card. It may not drop temps as much as with water but it's a huge change from stock and only $60.
I was getting max temps of around 65C benching overclocked with an Xtreme III on my 1080ti FE, using MX-3 paste.
Changed to Gelid Xtreme paste and max temp has dropped to 54C.
That temp delta with the Gelid is as good as mine with the EVGA Hybrid and MX-4. I just don't think I'd ever put that monstrosity on one of my video cards.
Wish I had known the paste could make such a big difference. I watched a video where someone installed the Arctic Xtreme III on a 1080ti, and they used Thermal Grizzly which I had never heard of but I ordered some and gave it a shot anyways. I thought I was using a high quality compound but I guess there is always something better. Getting these cards to never go over 80C is great no matter how you do it or how low you can take it though. Without even installing Afterburner and putting an overclock on I saw a very nice boost in my 3DMark score just due to the lack of throttling. (edit: my old 980 SLI setup was actually faster in certain situations than the single Titan, most notably Firestrike Ultra. With the overclock and zero throttling I think the Titan is finally taking the lead across the board).
I was getting problems at +200 core offset. +185 seemed stable but I backed off to +175. Memory seems much better, I was running +500 and didn't see any real problems but I backed off on that too, +400 now. I think that is giving me an effective boost clock of 2038Mhz on the core and 10800MHz on the memory.
So now I have a Noctua NH-D15 and an Arctic Accelero Xtreme III. They can fight in the case over who is bigger and uglier, Noctua probably coming in as a 2 to 1 favorite.
Well it's always a balance between performance and longevity. Even though Kryonaut and Gelid perform extremely well, they tend to deteriorate faster. You would be looking at replacing it every 4-5 years instead of 8-10.
My first NVidia card (one Titan X just replaced a pair of RX480 8G).
Which AIOs might best be recommended to fit? Is there a short list?
The old pair of RXs are going away to the closet mine, and Titan
will take over for games. But still had Claymore setup to run as
a benchmark. I notice that afterburner crashes when Claymore
starts or stops. Afterburner works OK if launched after Claymore
is already started, but will still crash on exit.
I uninstalled some of the 3D driver components, and Afterburner
stopped reporting clocks. Though GPU-Z still could. Were those
drivers necessary for afterburner?
Is there another GUI that will overclock Titan X with fewer bugs?
My memory also seems able to go higher than the Afterburner
slider allows. I can't prove that, cause the slider stops at +1000.
What I use (doesn't require an EVGA card - works with any Nvidia card):
I would uninstall any and all overclocking programs you were using. Then use DDU (https://www.wagnardsoft.com/) to remove any and all old NVIDIA and AMD drivers. Then finally do a clean install of the latest NVIDIA driver with a custom install, only including the display driver and PhysX. After that you can install and try Afterburner again.
If you're going to use this then get it directly from EVGA. If you get it through Steam, then Steam needs to be running for Precision XOC to be running.
Vats wrong with MSI AB?
>If you get it through Steam, then Steam needs to be running for Precision XOC to be running.
Not really, just make your own shortcut to bypass Steam...
"C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\EVGA PrecisionX\PrecisionX_x64.exe"
Having used both now, XOC seems to snag on all the same rough spots as MSI afterburner.
How to choose the evil of these two lessers? Wattman was almost usable compared to this...
I don't know what you mean. I've never had issues with AB or XOC, but I much prefer the former.
What rough spots? I've used Precision for years and never had an issue with it and same with Afterburner before that.
What rough spots?
1) Cluttered GUI
2) Slow to launch
3) Voltage curves are needlessly tiny, difficult to read, difficult to edit
(compare to XOC fan curve, or compare to Wattman).
4) Can't undervolt, except to set core offset higher, or edit curves.
5) Stable OC'd apps crash on exit unless restored to defaults first.
The only clear plus, is that we can save and restore profiles.
New driver for TitanX today, 3x speed boost in some professional apps.
Unfortunately nothing I am ever likely to use...
1) yea the GUI is kind of shit
5) haven't experienced this on a stable overclock
Ok makes sense now. Every application has its flaws.
I suspect the problem on exit is voltage coming back down too fast, shooting below idle and causing a crash.
Need to put a scope on it to be sure thats what it really is, and not something else. Even if the VRM control
loop isn't compensated properly, there is no reason XOC has to present a curve with access to the lowest
possible voltages in one fatal plummet. Let it stabilize at 950mV for a tenth of a second or something...