New to the 3D printer game.

[bbandu]

Ok so I am new to the world of 3D printing. I saw something that I wanted and decided to try and make it instead of buying it. So I have picked up Ender 3 Pro that has had very little use. I was just thinking I was ask the group is there are any upgrades that I should do right off the start.

This is what I was thinking:
Glass Bed
Creality 4.2.7 32 Bit Silent TMC2225 Control Board or SKR Mini E3 V1.2 Control Board 32 Bit with TMC2209 UART Driver
BL Touch

Is there anything else I should look into upgrading?
As I am just starting out I intend to stick to PLA for now, is there any certain brands that are better or worse then others?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Viper16]

I never understood the glass bed...I really enjoy the flex plate on the PRO, combined with the BL Touch, I have never had a print slide off after adhesion was seen.

Upgrade the bed springs 8mm OD 20mm Long (yellow springs).
You could also go all metal extruder. Lots of decent kits out there.
Capricorn bowden tube upgrade with better compression fittings is also a good upgrade. They sell kits.

 

[bbandu]

I never understood the glass bed...I really enjoy the flex plate on the PRO, combined with the BL Touch, I have never had a print slide off after adhesion was seen.

Upgrade the bed springs 8mm OD 20mm Long (yellow springs).
You could also go all metal extruder. Lots of decent kits out there.
Capricorn bowden tube upgrade with better compression fittings is also a good upgrade. They sell kits.

Can I add he BL Touch to the 8 bit board or do I need to upgrade the board as well.

 

[Viper16]

Can I add he BL Touch to the 8 bit board or do I need to upgrade the board as well.

I think you can, you will need to update to Marlin firmware and do a couple modifications to the z-switch.

 

[Viper16]

This may be a little high in cost for new board (i think around $125)...but I really enjoy this board: https://www.duet3d.com/Duet2Maestro
Super silent operation.

you can do so much with it,and eventually move it to another printer if you wish. It can IP send print files to the printer and you have a web interface to view the print process and select files. I can stream my files straight from CURA splicer to the printer and either print or save it internally into the SD card.

 

[bbandu]

This may be a little high in cost for new board (i think around $125)...but I really enjoy this board: https://www.duet3d.com/Duet2Maestro
Super silent operation.

you can do so much with it,and eventually move it to another printer if you wish. It can IP send print files to the printer and you have a web interface to view the print process and select files. I can stream my files straight from CURA splicer to the printer and either print or save it internally into the SD card.

I saw that board when I was looking but think its kind a out of my range right now if I want to do other upgrades as well.

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

A simple raspberry pi with octoprint works wonders. I know you’ve already made the purchase op, but the Ender 3 v2 comes with silent steppers, a 32 bit board and everything you’d want except a bltouch right out of the box.
I have a few, and I put bltouches on them. They are by far my most reliable 3D printer so far.

 

[bbandu]

A simple raspberry pi with octoprint works wonders. I know you’ve already made the purchase op, but the Ender 3 v2 comes with silent steppers, a 32 bit board and everything you’d want except a bltouch right out of the box.
I have a few, and I put bltouches on them. They are by far my most reliable 3D printer so far.

well I purchased this as a starter, to get my feet wet, but after purchasing I started finding alot of people talking about needing to upgrade the board because the 8 bit board does not have of thermal protection

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

well I purchased this as a starter, to get my feet wet, but after purchasing I started finding alot of people talking about needing to upgrade the board because the 8 bit board does not have of thermal protection

Correct. The ender 3 v2 is actually cheaper, has better parts and has the upgraded board and tensioner, and better screen, right out of the box. And I bought mine for about 185.

but if you’ve already built yours, a 32 but board is a must.

 

[bbandu]

Correct. The ended 3 v2 is actually cheaper, has better parts and has the upgraded board and tensioner, and better screen, right out of the box. And I bought mine for about 185.

but if you’ve already built yours, a 32 but board is a must.

I have already purchased the Ender 3 Pro so now the only questions is which 32 bit board to get. do both the BigTreeTech SKR Mini 2.0 OR Creality 4.2.7 have thermal runaway protection?

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

I have already purchased the Ender 3 Pro so now the only questions is which 32 bit board to get. do both the BigTreeTech SKR Mini 2.0 OR Creality 4.2.7 have thermal runaway protection?

Yes. It basically comes down to which you think has better support for the board. Once a 3d printer is up and dialed in, you most likely will not be changing the firmware again unless you added a feature.

 

[bbandu]

Yes. It basically comes down to which you think has better support for the board. Once a 3d printer is up and dialed in, you most likely will not be changing the firmware again unless you added a feature.

Right now the only other thing that I have thought about adding is ABL.

So knowing that I want to add ABL. Which card and ABL would be easier for a newbie?

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

Right now the only other thing that I have thought about adding is ABL.

So knowing that I want to add ABL. Which card and ABL would be easier for a newbie?

The best bed leveler I’ve used is the bltouch. As far as what you will need, that will depend on the board you pick up.

installation is usually pretty straight forward. You mount the sensor, run the wire to the main board, and flash the firmware. Then you update your slicer software to perform a bed level before it prints.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I disagree with the advice given here on one very important point. If you’re new to 3D printing, my advice is NOT to perform any major upgrades. You’ll find this same advice on most 3D print forums as well. Instead, learn the printer first. The only upgrades I’d recommend to begin with are:

1) The yellow bad springs - these will hold level much longer
2) Glass bed - glass and PEI are what most people are using. I have both but haven’t tried my PEI sheet yet.

The Capricorn tube is a great upgrade as well and I would probably advise you to do that as well, since the included PTFE tube tends to break down pretty quickly and being used, may be well on its way. Don’t worry about adding a new board or BLTouch yet - BLTouch is still going to require some degree of manual leveling on occasion and this is your time to learn that process well before adding the BLTouch. I bought a BLTouch but have never even installed it because my Ender is dialed in so well.

It is crucial that a new user learn the printer well before upgrading boards, ABL, etc. If you dont’t learn it well and make sure the mechanicals are sound before making major upgrades, you’ll have one heck of a hard time troubleshooting especially without the knowledge and experience of having printed for a few weeks/months. These devices aren’t plug and play- they’re still very much hobbyist tools and require lots of tinkering. There are lots of other great mods or additions (hotend fixes, OctoPrint, new extrudes, etc), but take it one step at a time.

I am an owner of the Ender 3 Pro and CR-6 SE. I’ve owned the Ender 3 Pro for almost 9 months. The only functional mods I’ve made are the Capricorn tube, yellow springs, Luke’s hotend fix, and replacing the bed clips with Swiss clips. I did buy an SKR 2.0 board and BLTouch with it but have never needed to install them. My CR6 SE has ABL included so the only mod I’ve done is Capricorn tube with the hotend fix coming up soon. I’m using OctoPrint on both printers. That is probably a worthwhile addition as well.

Things to have on hand:

1) Buy lots of extra nozzles - they’re cheap and I don’t waste time cleaning nozzles given they’re so cheap to replace.
2) Brass brushes - good for cleaning the nozzle.
3) Silicone socks - good to have a spare.
4) Capricorn tubing - always have some spare on hand.
5) Not a fan of some of the included tools, so I make sure to have needle nose pliers and a 6mm socket wrench on hand.

 

[bbandu]

I disagree with the advice given here on one very important point. If you’re new to 3D printing, my advice is NOT to perform any major upgrades. You’ll find this same advice on most 3D print forums as well. Instead, learn the printer first. The only upgrades I’d recommend to begin with are:

1) The yellow bad springs - these will hold level much longer
2) Glass bed - glass and PEI are what most people are using. I have both but haven’t tried my PEI sheet yet.

The Capricorn tube is a great upgrade as well and I would probably advise you to do that as well, since the included PTFE tube tends to break down pretty quickly and being used, may be well on its way. Don’t worry about adding a new board or BLTouch yet - BLTouch is still going to require some degree of manual leveling on occasion and this is your time to learn that process well before adding the BLTouch. I bought a BLTouch but have never even installed it because my Ender is dialed in so well.

It is crucial that a new user learn the printer well before upgrading boards, ABL, etc. If you dont’t learn it well and make sure the mechanicals are sound before making major upgrades, you’ll have one heck of a hard time troubleshooting especially without the knowledge and experience of having printed for a few weeks/months. These devices aren’t plug and play- they’re still very much hobbyist tools and require lots of tinkering. There are lots of other great mods or additions (hotend fixes, OctoPrint, new extrudes, etc), but take it one step at a time.

I am an owner of the Ender 3 Pro and CR-6 SE. I’ve owned the Ender 3 Pro for almost 9 months. The only functional mods I’ve made are the Capricorn tube, yellow springs, Luke’s hotend fix, and replacing the bed clips with Swiss clips. I did buy an SKR 2.0 board and BLTouch with it but have never needed to install them. My CR6 SE has ABL included so the only mod I’ve done is Capricorn tube with the hotend fix coming up soon. I’m using OctoPrint on both printers. That is probably a worthwhile addition as well.

Things to have on hand:

1) Buy lots of extra nozzles - they’re cheap and I don’t waste time cleaning nozzles given they’re so cheap to replace.
2) Brass brushes - good for cleaning the nozzle.
3) Silicone socks - good to have a spare.
4) Capricorn tubing - always have some spare on hand.
5) Not a fan of some of the included tools, so I make sure to have needle nose pliers and a 6mm socket wrench on hand.

IndyColtsFan thanks. The biggest reason that I have thought about upgrading the board is that everywhere I turn I keep seeing that the printer does not have thermal runaway protection.

Is there a particular nozzle you buy and place that you buy from?
Where do you get your silicone socks?

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

I disagree with the advice given here on one very important point. If you’re new to 3D printing, my advice is NOT to perform any major upgrades. You’ll find this same advice on most 3D print forums as well. Instead, learn the printer first. The only upgrades I’d recommend to begin with are:

1) The yellow bad springs - these will hold level much longer
2) Glass bed - glass and PEI are what most people are using. I have both but haven’t tried my PEI sheet yet.

The Capricorn tube is a great upgrade as well and I would probably advise you to do that as well, since the included PTFE tube tends to break down pretty quickly and being used, may be well on its way. Don’t worry about adding a new board or BLTouch yet - BLTouch is still going to require some degree of manual leveling on occasion and this is your time to learn that process well before adding the BLTouch. I bought a BLTouch but have never even installed it because my Ender is dialed in so well.

It is crucial that a new user learn the printer well before upgrading boards, ABL, etc. If you dont’t learn it well and make sure the mechanicals are sound before making major upgrades, you’ll have one heck of a hard time troubleshooting especially without the knowledge and experience of having printed for a few weeks/months. These devices aren’t plug and play- they’re still very much hobbyist tools and require lots of tinkering. There are lots of other great mods or additions (hotend fixes, OctoPrint, new extrudes, etc), but take it one step at a time.

I am an owner of the Ender 3 Pro and CR-6 SE. I’ve owned the Ender 3 Pro for almost 9 months. The only functional mods I’ve made are the Capricorn tube, yellow springs, Luke’s hotend fix, and replacing the bed clips with Swiss clips. I did buy an SKR 2.0 board and BLTouch with it but have never needed to install them. My CR6 SE has ABL included so the only mod I’ve done is Capricorn tube with the hotend fix coming up soon. I’m using OctoPrint on both printers. That is probably a worthwhile addition as well.

Things to have on hand:

1) Buy lots of extra nozzles - they’re cheap and I don’t waste time cleaning nozzles given they’re so cheap to replace.
2) Brass brushes - good for cleaning the nozzle.
3) Silicone socks - good to have a spare.
4) Capricorn tubing - always have some spare on hand.
5) Not a fan of some of the included tools, so I make sure to have needle nose pliers and a 6mm socket wrench on hand.

I entirely agree. I was still answering his question.

knowing your printer, it’s basic setup and function is very important. And yes the BLTouch doesn’t solve major bed leveling problems. But once the bed is pretty much dialed in manually, it makes a huge difference on prints. But if you can’t get the bed manually leveled then it’s useless.

mans all the upgrades up there are what I would do. They are cheap and easy to do.

 

[bbandu]

I entirely agree. I was still answering his question.

knowing your printer, it’s basic setup and function is very important. And yes the BLTouch doesn’t solve major bed leveling problems. But once the bed is pretty much dialed in manually, it makes a huge difference on prints. But if you can’t get the bed manually leveled then it’s useless.

mans all the upgrades up there are what I would do. They are cheap and easy to do.

Jmilcher Thanks for all the information you have provided. I have already purchased a glass bed but think that i will wait to put it on till I can get the bed dialed in and get a couple prints under my belt.
I will get some extra nozzles and the Capricorn tubing , What are the silicone socks that IndyColtsFan mentioned used for, is this the Hot end socks?

 

[IndyColtsFan]

IndyColtsFan thanks. The biggest reason that I have thought about upgrading the board is that everywhere I turn I keep seeing that the printer does not have thermal runaway protection.

Is there a particular nozzle you buy and place that you buy from?
Where do you get your silicone socks?

I buy everything from Amazon. For nozzles, I get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DL24HDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have silicone sock bundles which come with nozzles as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0881K8XHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[bbandu]

I buy everything from Amazon. For nozzles, I get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DL24HDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have silicone sock bundles which come with nozzles as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0881K8XHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ok thanks, is there really a need of all of the different size nozzles. From what I understand the .04 is pretty standard and should be fine for 1.75mm filaments.

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

Ok thanks, is there really a need of all of the different size nozzles. From what I understand the .04 is pretty standard and should be fine for 1.75mm filaments.

I’ve never used anything but .04. You can use others but you’d have to change things in the slicer etc.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I've not used anything besides the 0.04. I did buy some of the different sizes to experiment with but haven't yet.

 

[bbandu]

I’ve never used anything but .04. You can use others but you’d have to change things in the slicer etc.

I've not used anything besides the 0.04. I did buy some of the different sizes to experiment with but haven't yet.

That is what I got from all of the reading and video watching I have been doing but just wanted to make sure.

Ok so I think that I am now just going to order these two kits

Nozzles, Capricorn tubing, Black metal extruder and extra fittings
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3SNVVMEXOSKIB

Silicone socks and Bed springs
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Silicone-Compression-Compatible-Creality/dp/B088D4D9TM/ref=sr_1_25_sspa?crid=N489P93T5UBE&dchild=1&keywords=ender+3+silicone+sock&qid=1609436442&s=industrial&sprefix=silicone+socks+ender+,industrial,182&sr=1-25-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTVBUQkQ2NjFRTzBZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTY2OTQ0MktHUklMUk9YVUhJWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTMzNjM2T1c2MDFQVUJJSlE0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmX25leHQmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

ThAts a good start. Don’t install the extruded until you’ve dialed in some prints. Its still a great addition. But until you understand the rest of what’s going on, the extruded won’t do you much good.

 

[bbandu]

ThAts a good start. Don’t install the extruded until you’ve dialed in some prints. Its still a great addition. But until you understand the rest of what’s going on, the extruded won’t do you much good.

That is what i intended on doing, it was just a better deal getting it all in one bundle.

 

[bbandu]

Just wanted to say thanks. I have placed the order and hopefully will be printing great soon.

Ok another question, When I purchased this printer it came with a roll of Paramount 3D PLA 1.75KG filament, I have seen a lot of people talking about keeping the filament fry and moisture free. Is that anything special I need to do to keep the filament dry and clean?

PLA is what I have and what I intend to use for now, Are there certain filament that are recommended over others?

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

Just wanted to say thanks. I have placed the order and hopefully will be printing great soon.

Ok another question, When I purchased this printer it came with a roll of Paramount 3D PLA 1.75KG filament, I have seen a lot of people talking about keeping the filament fry and moisture free. Is that anything special I need to do to keep the filament dry and clean?

PLA is what I have and what I intend to use for now, Are there certain filament that are recommended over others?

Pla is the easiest for a beginner. What honestly your application usually determines what filament to use. Read up on each filament and what the benefits are. There are many variables when choosing.

I put my filament in a 3 gallon ziploc bag with desiccant packs. I can store 2 1.75 kg rolls in each bag. Keeps the moisture low and is a cheap solution.

 

[bbandu]

Pla is the easiest for a beginner. What honestly your application usually determines what filament to use. Read up on each filament and what the benefits are. There are many variables when choosing.

I put my filament in a 3 gallon ziploc bag with desiccant packs. I can store 2 1.75 kg rolls in each bag. Keeps the moisture low and is a cheap solution.

Ok thanks, Do I have to worry about this roll that I have as far a moisture goes.

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

Ok thanks, Do I have to worry about this roll that I have as far a moisture goes.

Some people have left rolls out in the air for months and months and claim to not have any issues printing. But for the very low cost of literally $10 or less you can get the supplies I mentioned above and not worry about it.

 

[bbandu]

Some people have left rolls out in the air for months and months and claim to not have any issues printing. But for the very low cost of literally $10 or less you can get the supplies I mentioned above and not worry about it

I think that sounds like a good idea, was just wondering about this roll that came with the printer, would hate to throw away a almost full roll.

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

I think that sounds like a good idea, was just wondering about this roll that came with the printer, would hate to throw away a almost full roll.

I’m sure it’s fine. I’ve never had any issues. You’ll use it often when you’re first learning.

 

[bbandu]

I’m sure it’s fine. I’ve never had any issues. You’ll use it often when you’re first learning

Ok Great, I was lookin gat some PLA as I think that is what I will tend to use more of. I see that there are different printer temperature ranges. I was reading that the ender 3 hot end can easily heat up to 280C but because of the it is not an all-metal hot-end, so the temperature is limited to 240°C because of the use of PTFE tubing and the quality of the components it's made of.

I was looking at this PLA filament.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Filament-LABISTS-Plastic-Printing/dp/B08D6QRKVF

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

Ok Great, I was lookin gat some PLA as I think that is what I will tend to use more of. I see that there are different printer temperature ranges. I was reading that the ender 3 hot end can easily heat up to 280C but because of the it is not an all-metal hot-end, so the temperature is limited to 240°C because of the use of PTFE tubing and the quality of the components it's made of.

I was looking at this PLA filament.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Filament-LABISTS-Plastic-Printing/dp/B08D6QRKVF

I haven’t seen a pla print over 225. I use eSun brand often and hatchbox. Both print well under 215. Usually 205-215. I used a bunch of filaments until I found what worked best for me.

uou are correct on the hot end. You need to bump up to a all metal Swiss type hot end to print hotter materials, but you most likely won’t print those with this printer.

 

[bbandu]

I haven’t seen a pla print over 225. I use eSun brand often and hatchbox. Both print well under 215. Usually 205-215. I used a bunch of filaments until I found what worked best for me.

uou are correct on the hot end. You need to bump up to a all metal Swiss type hot end to print hotter materials, but you most likely won’t print those with this printer.

Thanks I didn't realize until after I posted it that those were small spools

I am actually going to order one of these rolls (Recommended printing temperature at 190-210)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME75BGK/ref=dp_prsubs_3

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I keep my open filament in bags with desiccant packets and then place those in plastic, water-tight tubs with desiccant packs in them. I also bought a cheap food dehydrator and found compatible “walls” for it on Thingiverse so I wouldn’t have to cut up the included trays. I‘ll occasionally use that on certain filaments like Solutech and to dry out my desiccant.

Agree with jmilcher - I’ve had good luck with Hatchbox and my one roll of eSun has been great and I’ve got a couple more to test. Others I really like are Filacube (love them!), Ziro (transparent and marble), and TTYT3D (silks). Solutech is my cheap go-to but I won’t lie - it can be very problematic and finicky at times and I have resorted to dehydrating on more than one occasion. I mainly stick to PLA but do have a roll of Overture PETG and Eryone TPU to test. I print mainly Star Wars content so PLA is generally perfect for me.

I was having problems with adhesion to two glass beds today. In the past, washing them usually seemed to fix the issue but not today. I tried releveling, changing nozzle (filament looked a little thin and thought I might have a clog), and new filament, but nothing worked. I finally pulled out a PEI sheet and presto - instant adhesion.

 

[bbandu]

I keep my open filament in bags with desiccant packets and then place those in plastic, water-tight tubs with desiccant packs in them. I also bought a cheap food dehydrator and found compatible “walls” for it on Thingiverse so I wouldn’t have to cut up the included trays. I‘ll occasionally use that on certain filaments like Solutech and to dry out my desiccant.

Agree with jmilcher - I’ve had good luck with Hatchbox and my one roll of eSun has been great and I’ve got a couple more to test. Others I really like are Filacube (love them!), Ziro (transparent and marble), and TTYT3D (silks). Solutech is my cheap go-to but I won’t lie - it can be very problematic and finicky at times and I have resorted to dehydrating on more than one occasion. I mainly stick to PLA but do have a roll of Overture PETG and Eryone TPU to test. I print mainly Star Wars content so PLA is generally perfect for me.

I was having problems with adhesion to two glass beds today. In the past, washing them usually seemed to fix the issue but not today. I tried releveling, changing nozzle (filament looked a little thin and thought I might have a clog), and new filament, but nothing worked. I finally pulled out a PEI sheet and presto - instant adhesion.

Awesome info, so if you could only buy one brand of PLA which one would it be?

Speaking of filament and storage where do yall keep your printers, I was actually thinking about locating my printer in the garage but there is alot of humidity here in Florida and my garage is not climate controlled.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

Awesome info, so if you could only buy one brand of PLA which one would it be?

Speaking of filament and storage where do yall keep your printers, I was actually thinking about locating my printer in the garage but there is alot of humidity here in Florida and my garage is not climate controlled.

Hatchbox.

Both of my printers are in my office.

 

[Dreamerbydesign]

I use eSun exclusively, or Inland (same thing) if you have a micro center near you.

a garage is not a good place to keep it. Mine is also in my office.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I use eSun exclusively, or Inland (same thing) if you have a micro center near you.

a garage is not a good place to keep it. Mine is also in my office.

I bought a roll of eSun Pine Green for making holiday decorations and really liked it. I have a brown roll and a dark blue roll on the way too.

 

[bbandu]

I use eSun exclusively, or Inland (same thing) if you have a micro center near you.

a garage is not a good place to keep it. Mine is also in my office.

So it looks like I will need to find a different place for my printer to go.

 

[bbandu]

I bought a roll of eSun Pine Green for making holiday decorations and really liked it. I have a brown roll and a dark blue roll on the way.

Are there any good places to buy at good prices other then Amazon. I lo ok ked and there v is not a micro center close to me.