New Samsung 4k for everyone.

The perfect blackness of the "black bars" due to the cinematic aspect ratio is also something very special once you finally experience it. I watched a few of the "breathtaking" scenes again on the Samsung, making sure I had it set to its best possible image quality for movies, and it looked like complete garbage... contrast makes a HUGE difference in movies.
Samsung has the "Cinema Black" option that dims the backlight in the letterbox bars. It's not perfect as the surrounding backlight still leaks into the area, but it does help a fair amount. Of course that's just one small part of the image and it'll still be a far cry from OLED.

Unfortunately it's way too late for me to return the set so I'm just going to have to ride it out with the Samsung for now. I'll have a look at the second generation LG OLEDs and might upgrade if they've fixed the dark vignetting/banding and perhaps improved the input lag (for me the sub-40ms lag of Samsung's PC mode is OK), or I might wait until the other manufacturers get into the OLED game.

I also wish there were some effective way of communicating issues to the people and engineers who are actually implementing all this stuff in the sets. Especially for things that are clearly fixable in firmware like the Smart LED highlight clipping I posted about above. As it is, the only option seems to be to hope that they happen to find and fix the issue themselves or that some reviewers with more clout get into contact with them.
 
Just successfully paired my Kbtalking pro keyboard with my 7500. Sure makes searching movies/tv on Netflix ect so much more easy.
 
would be nice if we can also plug in a Logitech wireless keyb mouse set into the usb port ;). I think all Samsung needs to do is have the drivers installed in the firmware... I can get a cheap Logitech wireless set for $15.. ;)
 
Turns out it was neither!

After literally two days trying to fix this and blaming it on HDMI cables, it turns out all I had to do was set Windows to only show 1 monitor under Display settings (The TV) instead keeping the original 'extend these displays' that I had set. Then I just set up the Samsung TV in the 4:4:4 format and then rechanged it back to the original extend setting.

All I can assume is Windows was thinking it was another TV entirely after it restarting in the UHD Color mode so didn't 'extend' it?

All sorted now any ways. Aaaaand relax! :eek:

That's weird bc I was able to get mine running 4:4:4 from the get go without first changing it to 1 monitor. but glad you got it wrkin. It looks quite different now when you bring up the chroma test page doesn't it?:)
 
That's weird bc I was able to get mine running 4:4:4 from the get go without first changing it to 1 monitor. but glad you got it wrkin. It looks quite different now when you bring up the chroma test page doesn't it?:)

Yep, static things generally look much nicer. However I am now wondering whether 4:4:4 is for me as I use the TV as a secondary monitor mounted above my 1440p 27" screen. I use the TV mainly for watching media... so I'm just wondering if I'd be better off with UDH Color disabled and utilizing the TV's post processing capabilities instead?
 
I've updated my SEK-3500U from 1421 to 1440.8 a couple of days ago and the input lag seems a bit lower, especially in "movie mode" with AMP on. PC feels a bit better too, but the difference between movie and PC gets smaller and smaller.
They fixed another bug too, which is kind of sad, because this bug enabled me to use LED clear motion with the PC device type. Switching from another device type to PC whenever LED clear motion was on, resulted in disabling everything except black frame insertion. This doesn't work anymore. But because I've seen it functioning, it seems to me they can perfectly incorporate this within their firmware for PC or game mode, because it adds no lag or artifacts. You only need to withstand the flickering :D
 
Yep, static things generally look much nicer. However I am now wondering whether 4:4:4 is for me as I use the TV as a secondary monitor mounted above my 1440p 27" screen. I use the TV mainly for watching media... so I'm just wondering if I'd be better off with UDH Color disabled and utilizing the TV's post processing capabilities instead?

I wouldn't disable UHD color. you will lose 4:4:4 chroma plus possibly also 10bit color when in 4:2:2...
 
They fixed another bug too, which is kind of sad, because this bug enabled me to use LED clear motion with the PC device type. Switching from another device type to PC whenever LED clear motion was on, resulted in disabling everything except black frame insertion. This doesn't work anymore. But because I've seen it functioning, it seems to me they can perfectly incorporate this within their firmware for PC or game mode, because it adds no lag or artifacts. You only need to withstand the flickering :D
I never quite got what that function was good for. It's unusable in 60Hz mode because of the flicker, and I have yet to come across a situation in a 24Hz movie where it really made an appreciable difference after compensating the backlight.
 
Yep, static things generally look much nicer. However I am now wondering whether 4:4:4 is for me as I use the TV as a secondary monitor mounted above my 1440p 27" screen. I use the TV mainly for watching media... so I'm just wondering if I'd be better off with UDH Color disabled and utilizing the TV's post processing capabilities instead?
As far as I can tell there's no reason to have UHD Color disabled. Keep it enabled and just switch over to movie mode to get more accurate colors and processing for media, that way you can quickly switch back if you happen to need the 4:4:4 for anything.
 
I never quite got what that function was good for. It's unusable in 60Hz mode because of the flicker, and I have yet to come across a situation in a 24Hz movie where it really made an appreciable difference after compensating the backlight.
It improves motion resolution dramatically, so there's less ghosting/blurring. But it's best visible and usable when playing games, because of higher frame rates (than 24) and the flickering is less annoying (especially in darker games).
 
Yeah, LED clear motion makes my PS4 games look smoother for sure. I do like it for that.
 
Just picked up a UN40J7100 this weekend after reading this thread. So far its great for pc gaming and console gaming. Looking for a wireless headphone recommendation that works with the TV, so I only have to have one set of headphones, not one for each device.


Bluetooth or RF is fine, I'm not too picky, not an audiophile, so does not need to be super accurate, but not super bass heavy either. Virtual surround sound would be good, know it's not for everyone but I enjoy the experience. Also comfortable would be a must since I will be wearing them for hours at a time.
 
Anyone having issue with streaming video (Youtube, crunchyroll, etc) looking really choppy but games run smoothly on a UN48JU6700?

I'm assuming it's because those streaming video are 24 FPS, if this is the case... am I missing a configuration needed to solve this issue?
 
@revenant

"...and the little 3dfx logo spinning around before a glide based game launches."

ha!...true that!...Unreal Tournament in Glide...best colors of the time...I think I will hook up my retro PC with the 3dfx 5500 in it to the JS9000...see what I get!

might have to play "create a cable"...ha
 
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Anyone having issue with streaming video (Youtube, crunchyroll, etc) looking really choppy but games run smoothly on a UN48JU6700?

I'm assuming it's because those streaming video are 24 FPS, if this is the case... am I missing a configuration needed to solve this issue?

I honestly haven't noticed this at all... I'll check it out later this afternoon with my set.
 
looking at purchasing a JU7500 to connect to my Titan-X this weekend. is the stock HDMI cable that comes with the TV (assuming one does) sufficient? or will I need something better most likely, and if so can someone give me a link to a good price/performance HDMI 2.0 cable?
 
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I have owned the Samsung JU7500 and JS9000, and the LG OLED EC9300, and EG9600. I have used each of these TV's for at least a few weeks. I currently own the EG9600 (and have for a few months), but am more than likely having LG buy it back from me a second time and am getting another JS9000 - allow me to elaborate.

In regards to my experience with the EG9600, I originally purchased the TV from BestBuy in August, exchanged it for 2 more TV's due to dead pixels, and then had the panel replaced 2 times by LG due to the vignetting/dark panel edge issue on dark content (night scenes particularly), which is WELL talked about on the web. Basically, the sides of the TV go to full black long before they are supposed to due to a design flaw. On a fullscreen 5% grayscale, you will find the left and right sides being black, and vertical banding across the entire panel. LG has tried fixing this for months. I was told by the RMA supervisor in VIP care they FINALLY fixed the issue with new panels as of last week - but I'm not taking the gamble again for a replacement, so I got approved for another buy-back.

The biggest concern is the input lag. I tried lying to myself and saying it wasn't a big deal, that it was worth the trade off for the picture quality. And for the most part, I wasn't wrong. I've enjoying using this TV quite a bit even for FPS gaming. But there are times where I get pissed - really pissed - because enemies are getting 2+ frames advantage on me where I get killed because of it. The further muddied mouse movement is enough to drive you insane as well wherever v-sync is enabled (desktop). But even without v-sync, it's far from perfect. Compared to the Samsung TV's, or a PC monitor without the added input lag, it is a night and day difference. I know you said you play RPG's, and if that's seriously it, then you may be okay - just be aware that regardless of what you're doing, you're going to notice that damn mouse hesitation. You get used to it eventually, but it will rear its ugly head 24/7 no matter what. I tried contacting LG about it, since the pixel response time of <1ms would make this TV a gamer's dream, but they either don't give a damn or it's impossible to speak with the right people.

Sitting between 2 and 3 feet away of 55" is somewhat challenging too, so the further you can place it, the better. It's not impossible, but it's awkward. The corners are really far away, and I have to look up doing desktop work due to my desk height with the stand. My eyes are centered on the screen where I sit, so gaming is mostly okay. The pixel arrangement and TV size also pronounces a lower sharpness effect at times. Since there are 4 pixels, instead of 3, sometimes the gap between those pixels shows itself badly if you look close enough. You end up with almost a shadow of that pixel, or pixels, that is sticking out from the rest of the pack, and I can see the colored sub-pixels when looking closely. I don't notice it too often, but when I do, it looks really weird. Sharpness on 4K at this size is also nowhere to be found. You have less PPI than a 24" 1080p monitor, unless you sit far away. Just something to keep in mind. I will say though, that games are pretty lifelike. The bezels disappear when you focus on the screen, and it is just gorgeous to look at. Where I sit, it's almost like VR in a way. Everything is sized life-like when I'm looking at the screen from this distance, so it can make for a pretty awesome experience. Also, it has this thing called ABL (auto brightness limiter). The brighter the content, and the more screen real estate it takes up, the dimmer the screen gets. This is due to the way OLED tech currently is, and it is built-in and cannot be disabled so the panel doesn't blow itself up I guess.

I was tempted to keep the EG9600 for purely TV purposes, because it is a gorgeous display with a fantastic minimalistic design. I paid $2074 for mine, which is still a lot less than you'll find right now. And I just don't think it's worth it with the QA issues, and it being a first-gen product. LG just announced new OLED TV's at CES. My suggestion? Wait for those, because you'll regret it if you don't. They're going to blow the current OLED's out of the water.

Picking the Samsung back up again, I am going to miss the perfect viewing angles and contrast. But, I will gain back the low input lag, and the ability to use 120 Hz interpolation (a big deal) at the same input lag levels as the LG OLED's by default (numbers say otherwise, but from what I felt the lag was the same). LCD panels also have ghosting, which the OLED does not, and the bezels on the Samsung are a little unpleasant (something that is changing for 2016's screens, but they all are far too big to use as a PC monitor up close).

So there you have it. There really is no clear answer. But for my dollar, I'm basically paying $1000 for the JS9000 with its pros and expected cons due to LCD, but zero "flaws", versus the OLED for $2000, with advantages and disadvantages (some due to poor processing, some due to panel design/engineering), and a certain engineering flaw.


I have owned the same TV's, monitors aswell except the eg9600.

When turning off vsync for games, the input lag will get decreased by 3 frames, so playing on the oled should feel much better when doing that.

I have the ec9300 and disabling the vsync gets me better response then the Samsung with vsync enabled.

What are your thoughts on this?

Have you tried the Samsung 65j9500? it is backlit and is the best SUHD they have currently and has low input lag.

I am in talks with the people who make the Leo Bodnar and they will have their 4k input lag tester available in the end of February. So we will be able to test these 4k tvs and monitors with it to get the correct lag numbers.
 
I have owned the same TV's, monitors aswell except the eg9600.

When turning off vsync for games, the input lag will get decreased by 3 frames, so playing on the oled should feel much better when doing that.

I have the ec9300 and disabling the vsync gets me better response then the Samsung with vsync enabled.

What are your thoughts on this?

Have you tried the Samsung 65j9500? it is backlit and is the best SUHD they have currently and has low input lag.

I am in talks with the people who make the Leo Bodnar and they will have their 4k input lag tester available in the end of February. So we will be able to test these 4k tvs and monitors with it to get the correct lag numbers.

The EC9300 apparently had slightly lower lag than all the 4K OLEDs. With V-Sync off, I find any game manageable (except R6 Siege - that game was built by idiots. It has inherent mouse response problems, which get compounded by any monitor lag). But side by side, it is still no contest for response with a Samsung in game mode. It is something I have gotten plenty used to. Right now, my mouse feels like it's moving at normal speed because I've been used to it for so long. I am really hoping LG can fix it on the software side - even if taking Samsung's approach of reduced chroma. Maybe the processing power isn't there for it. The 2016 OLEDs will have decacore processors...

I never wanted to try out a 65" screen for gaming. At the distance I sit, it would seriously be too much. Now that I have a TV stand/mount though, I could put my desk further back and have the TV out front, so it'd be possible if I wanted to now. In my opinion, no amount of local dimming will save LCD. These companies at CES are hyping up their new ways of tackling the problem of bloom from backlighting, but I just don't see it happening. OLED has millions of dimming zones - each pixel. LCD cannot reproduce this, nor prevent light leakage with that number of zones to begin with. With that being said, the human vision is not stellar. Maybe they could develop some type of trickery where it would be very hard to notice blooming/bleed, but they're just trying to save face until they can produce OLED sets too. There are just too many positives to OLED that LCD will never be able to compete with.

And a 4K Leo Bodnar will be fantastic. In the early Samsung days, 1080p was producing lower lag numbers than native 4K. I don't think this is still the case, but it just showed me that it was entirely possible these raved Leo Bodnar tests are not necessarily accurate.
 
The EC9300 apparently had slightly lower lag than all the 4K OLEDs. With V-Sync off, I find any game manageable (except R6 Siege - that game was built by idiots. It has inherent mouse response problems, which get compounded by any monitor lag). But side by side, it is still no contest for response with a Samsung in game mode. It is something I have gotten plenty used to. Right now, my mouse feels like it's moving at normal speed because I've been used to it for so long. I am really hoping LG can fix it on the software side - even if taking Samsung's approach of reduced chroma. Maybe the processing power isn't there for it. The 2016 OLEDs will have decacore processors...

I never wanted to try out a 65" screen for gaming. At the distance I sit, it would seriously be too much. Now that I have a TV stand/mount though, I could put my desk further back and have the TV out front, so it'd be possible if I wanted to now. In my opinion, no amount of local dimming will save LCD. These companies at CES are hyping up their new ways of tackling the problem of bloom from backlighting, but I just don't see it happening. OLED has millions of dimming zones - each pixel. LCD cannot reproduce this, nor prevent light leakage with that number of zones to begin with. With that being said, the human vision is not stellar. Maybe they could develop some type of trickery where it would be very hard to notice blooming/bleed, but they're just trying to save face until they can produce OLED sets too. There are just too many positives to OLED that LCD will never be able to compete with.

And a 4K Leo Bodnar will be fantastic. In the early Samsung days, 1080p was producing lower lag numbers than native 4K. I don't think this is still the case, but it just showed me that it was entirely possible these raved Leo Bodnar tests are not necessarily accurate.


PLaying 4k native on the Samsung now the same as 1080p in game mode? I now in the past you said it wasn't so I am just trying to make sure it is fixed.

I personally can't deal with the input lag even on the ec9300 for gaming, it is just too much. My leo bodnar constantly shows different numbers for it, sometimes the middle bar is 31ms, sometimes 36ms, sometimes 46ms!! It is all over the place.

I think the reason for that is that LG has a system in place that is constantly checking static images and reducing the brightness, as long as they have that in place I dont think in the tv market we will get super low input lag from oleds.

I even got a service remote for the oled and went into the service menu, I tried turning off all sorts of stuff but it didn't lower lag at all.

For me, if you want a larger then 32 inch display for gaming, your real choice is really the 2015 Samsungs, especially the SUHD ones as I agree with you the color on those is significantly better then their other panels.

I think 4k gaming native ( if the lag is the same as 1080p ) on the Samsungs should provide a good experience. I know the black cant match but the oleds have vertical banding, so do the Samsungs but it is less noticable to me.

Have you tried doing a bias light with the led?

I went on lunch to test out the Samsung 65js9500 with my Playstation, I wanted to check out the uniformity on the tv. To my surprise it is indeed better then the 55JS9000, 48JS9000 and the 48JU7500 I had. Uniformity and input lag are my biggest issues with displays. All led's have uniformity issues, even my LG 27 ips ( HP27xw that NCX raves about has uniformity issues like slight vertical banding ). I have come to the conclusion that all tvs have uniformity issues and I have to just deal with it. None are perfect, some are less noticable in content then others, always a compromise but I will say that the Oleds have the worst uniformity due to the vertical banding they have, its worse then the 2009 Sharp led's that were plagued with it. Of course the oled banding isn't noticable all of the time but when it is, it is horrible. At least this 65js9500 is much much less in that regard.

It was a TS01 panel ( a Samsung panel ) and it really impressed me! It seems to be the absolute cream of the crop from Samsung. I am probably going to 4k pc game on it for the next few years and use my Oled for tv and movies. If oled ever reduces the input lag to the level the Samsung's have I will definitely jump back into oled for gaming.

I did bring my Leo Bodnar tester and the tv was in firmware 1220, it got a 23.2ms for the middle bar everytime I tested it but a few times it registered 36ms for a half sec then dropped down to 23.2ms, I figure it is a delay in activating game mode on the tv. I am curious if 4k native will get the same input lag numbers, I will be sure to grab the Leo Bodnar 4k input lag tester next month.
 
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I wrote in a pm about my experience of the 9500 vs 9000.

For me I stayed with the 55" js9000, over the 9500. Aesthetically the JS9500(My opinion obviously ) is not pleasing to the eye at 65" the bezel is HUGE. I like low profiles and one of the main selling points is the JS9000 barely even has a bezel or depth to it.

If the js9500 came at 55" instead of 65" I'd overlook the bezel and crappy camera. However, I'm paying too much for a 'slightly' better screen with functions and a larger footprint I neither desire or need. I'm very happy with the 9000.

I am coming from 4 30" dell's in portrait, Acer 32" 4k, Asus ROG.

For me, I wanted an OLED but those are not up to snuff yet(from what I've read).

I've been trying to see if they have made a successor k
(CES?) to the JS9000, but I can't find anything on the Web. If they make one worthwhile I'll sell this and upgrade.
 
just set up our 65 inch JS9500. Beautiful set. As soon as I have a 100 hours on it I'm going to have it calibrated.
 
It improves motion resolution dramatically, so there's less ghosting/blurring. But it's best visible and usable when playing games, because of higher frame rates (than 24) and the flickering is less annoying (especially in darker games).
I tried it now on a constantly scrolling page to see what happened. At 24Hz it made no practical difference at all, at 30Hz maybe a minuscule difference at best. At 60Hz the difference was huge as you say, but I personally cannot fathom how anyone could stand looking at that flicker.

I'd think setting Blur reduction to around 6 or 7 would be the better option. It has a similar effect but no flickering. There's the occasional artifact but they're very subtle and difficult to notice at that level.
 
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Hey all. Been lurking for a while here, really helpful discussion. I picked up a 48" JU7500 back in November to replace a triple monitor setup. And it's been so much better without bezels in the way.

I went with this model for the 60Hz/4:4:4 and the low input lag (lowest, according to rtings.com). I'm looking forward to a Thunderbolt 3 dock that's coming out so I can move out of 30Hzville.

Also found the "Clear" motion setting noticeable in games (GTA 5), even at 30Hz. And no flicker as far as I can tell. But is there any way to use this in Game mode? If not, is the added lag detectable at 60Hz?

Since this thread helped with my decision, here are a few tips I can offer to those using a large UHD display for long work sessions. It's a huge desktop for a single monitor, at first I was wasting a lot of it with unnecessarily large windows. So I configured a few small utilities (Windows) to help manage things. Apps I've used for some time but repurposed for the big screen:

1. KDE Mover-Sizer: click in any window quadrant to resize in that direction, or click anywhere on a window to drag it

2. Winsplit Revolution: auto-size and move the current window to any predefined area of the screen using keyboard hotkeys (corresponding with the layout of the numeric keypad). Other hotkeys to maximize vertically, snap windows, etc.

3. Win10 virtual desktop/Task View: yeah, everyone knows this or something similar

4. AutoHotKey: more keyboard macros including one to switch virtual desktops -- click the mouse (trackball) wheel to open Task View, then tilt the wheel left or right to switch to the previous/next desktop

5. Launchy: file/app launcher. I still find this better than Windows 10 search, and less of a spy than native search/Cortana. I know, not everyone runs Windows.

They're all free to download. I found the combo really boosted my productivity once I got the muscle memory for the various shortcuts.
 
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That's great info, chromatics. I've been looking for some good window management utilities since I got my Samsung and a few were mentioned in this monster thread but I never really found what I was looking for. I'll definitely check those out - thanks for sharing!
 
Nice! Assuming it's problem free, you're going to love it. I look forward to hearing your impressions vs. the JU7500 to see if you were as impressed as some of the rest of us.
 
Also found the "Clear" motion setting noticeable in games (GTA 5), even at 30Hz. And no flicker as far as I can tell. But is there any way to use this in Game mode? If not, is the added lag detectable at 60Hz?
There's only flicker if you use the LED Clear Motion in custom mode, the individual Blur/Judder controls have no flicker (the various presets are just combinations of the two controls) though there are occasional artifacts. Especially with the Judder reduction, but it's much less in games than movies, at least if you play at 60fps.

And no, the Auto Motion Plus function is not available in PC or Game mode, so you'll have to deal with the input lag to use it. The lag increase is noticeable, but is in my opinion still perfectly playable for single-player games using a controller. With mouse/cursor-based games the lag might be a bit annoying though. I'm not sure if it helps to turn off functions like Smart LED, Cinema Black and 10-point white balance.

This is only if you send 2160p to the TV by the way. If you send it 1080p and let the TV do the upscaling the input lag will increase to unusable levels.
 
Pakk, thanks for explaining how those items affect lag. I'm not sure either about Cinema Black but I did read that Smart LED should be turned off (although I can't tell a difference in lag with it). I have changed my 2-point balance, but not 10-point -- which, with Game mode isn't an option anyway.

But now the big eye opener: you say 1080p upscaled games result in unusable levels of input lag? My JU7500 is connected to a laptop with an Nvidia 960M, so 4k gaming isn't quite feasible. I'm also new to gaming so I *thought* I was actually getting a decent experience! Figured the icing on the cake would be the 60Hz dock/adapter when it comes -- but I'd still be running at 1080p for games.

Maybe I'm missing the benefits of this low-lag TV! Is the non-upscaled gaming experience really that much better/responsive on this display? I mean, aside from the improved resolution. If so, the only way I can see doing this is with one of those new eGPU docks like the Razer Core (Thunderbolt 3; USB-C @ 40Gbps). But that would set me back at least $750 with video card.

Does Xbox/PS4 not run at 1080p? I think I read people use those on these displays..
 
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I'm not sure what he really means.
The reported response times were taken at 1080p because they dont have equipment to test 4K yet.
It has been confirmed that 4K has higher response times (higher lag).
 
Just to clarify....I have my monitor set with UHD enabled over HDMI 1

I really never liked using the PC mode input as even with "Entertain" mode the picture look dull and washed out to my eyes. Also, I like using AMP as I like the added "POP"

So, I use the Game input, not "Game mode"....and I set the picture to mode to Dynamic and have AMP on and set to standard or smooth. To me, this looks great with the games that I play and I do not see any input lag.

I have RGB Full 32 bit color depth and output at 8 bpc. My questions is that since I am not in PC mode, I would assume that I lose the 444 Chroma and default to 442? IS this correct? I really cannot even tell a difference if this is true....
 
Pakk, thanks for explaining how those items affect lag. I'm not sure either about Cinema Black but I did read that Smart LED should be turned off (although I can't tell a difference in lag with it). I have changed my 2-point balance, but not 10-point -- which, with Game mode isn't an option anyway.

But now the big eye opener: you say 1080p upscaled games result in unusable levels of input lag? My JU7500 is connected to a laptop with an Nvidia 960M, so 4k gaming isn't quite feasible. I'm also new to gaming so I *thought* I was actually getting a decent experience! Figured the icing on the cake would be the 60Hz dock/adapter when it comes -- but I'd still be running at 1080p for games.

I'm not sure what he really means.
The reported response times were taken at 1080p because they dont have equipment to test 4K yet.
It has been confirmed that 4K has higher response times (higher lag).
I'll try to explain it a bit clearer. On my Samsung it basically breaks down like the following, with UHD color enabled, RGB mode (4:4:4), at 60Hz.

If sending 3840x2160 to the TV:
  • Game mode: Low lag.
  • PC mode: Low lag.
  • Movie mode: Slightly higher lag. Noticeable especially if you compare to the other modes, but still perfectly playable in most cases.
If sending 1920x1080 to the TV:
  • Game mode: Low lag.
  • PC mode: Low lag.
  • Movie mode: Crazy amounts of lag, extremely floaty mouse pointer that feels like you're playing an endless ice level. Unusable.

I haven't tried without UHD color, or outputting other color modes or refresh rates so I don't know if there's any difference.

But at 60Hz, if you want to use Auto Motion Plus in the movie mode, you want to avoid sending 1080p to the TV if it behaves anything like my set. You don't need to be able to render everything at 2160p, you can either set your GPU to upscale non-native resolutions before sending it to the display, or if that's not possible (the option isn't available to me for some reason), you can create a custom resolution just a notch higher (for example I have one for 1952x1098) and use that in games, which will hopefully force the GPU to upscale it to 3840x2160 and you'll get the lower lag as per the list above.
 
Just to clarify....I have my monitor set with UHD enabled over HDMI 1

I really never liked using the PC mode input as even with "Entertain" mode the picture look dull and washed out to my eyes. Also, I like using AMP as I like the added "POP"

So, I use the Game input, not "Game mode"....and I set the picture to mode to Dynamic and have AMP on and set to standard or smooth. To me, this looks great with the games that I play and I do not see any input lag.

I have RGB Full 32 bit color depth and output at 8 bpc. My questions is that since I am not in PC mode, I would assume that I lose the 444 Chroma and default to 442? IS this correct? I really cannot even tell a difference if this is true....
"Game input" is nothing, it's just the normal movie mode. There are only two modes in the source list, either PC/DVI (PC mode) or everything else (movie mode).

The "Dynamic" setting is basically "Torch" mode, which distorts the picture badly with overdone contrast, crushed blacks and incorrect and oversaturated colors, plus you're locked out of a bunch of options. I would never recommend anyone to use it, but to each his own. Also make sure your levels are set correctly. Set the "Output dynamic range" to "Full" in the GPU drivers and set the "HDMI black level" to "Normal" on the TV.

And in movie mode, which you're using, you are limited to 4:2:0 color. The difference to 4:4:4 isn't huge in many games, though if you switch back and forth to PC mode you should easily be able to spot it on the desktop or web pages on colored icons and text (especially reds) where they will be blurrier and the color will bleed outside the lines.
 
Also make sure your levels are set correctly. Set the "Output dynamic range" to "Full" in the GPU drivers and set the "HDMI black level" to "Normal" on the TV.

Awesome, thank you. I don't know why, but for some reason every time I've tried setting the HDMI black level to Normal it resulted in a noticeable haze on the screen (which was said to be preferable to crushed blacks). The advice in this thread was that that was normal, and that you would get used to it. But the perceived superior contrast of HDMI black level = Low was always preferable to me than the hazy effect that I'd have by changing that setting to Normal.

I don't know what changed, but I tried it just now and can clearly see an improvement by changing the TV's HDMI black level to Normal (with Output dynamic range set to Full in the drivers). I did just change GPUs, so maybe something got reset that allowed this to work as it should. Before, when I would change HDMI black level to the recommend value of Normal, it seemed like there was a white/grey haze over everything. This time, I can apply the setting and the grey shades in the forum posts on this page change to a more normal color while the black level on the black background stays the same rather than having a haze over it. I feel I'm getting a more accurate color palette without crushing blacks or having to deal with a white haze, so the best of both worlds!

Very happy with the new setting...thank you.
 
"Game input" is nothing, it's just the normal movie mode. There are only two modes in the source list, either PC/DVI (PC mode) or everything else (movie mode).

The "Dynamic" setting is basically "Torch" mode, which distorts the picture badly with overdone contrast, crushed blacks and incorrect and oversaturated colors, plus you're locked out of a bunch of options. I would never recommend anyone to use it, but to each his own. Also make sure your levels are set correctly. Set the "Output dynamic range" to "Full" in the GPU drivers and set the "HDMI black level" to "Normal" on the TV.

And in movie mode, which you're using, you are limited to 4:2:0 color. The difference to 4:4:4 isn't huge in many games, though if you switch back and forth to PC mode you should easily be able to spot it on the desktop or web pages on colored icons and text (especially reds) where they will be blurrier and the color will bleed outside the lines.

Yes, I already know all that...I just wanted clarification on the chroma...I've said it before on this thread...It's all personal preference and for me, using dynamic with the Amp setting makes my games pop....The flame on the flamethrower on Alien isolation for instance looks life like to me using Dynamic/amp...Yes it is oversaturated, but IMO, games are meant to envelope and enjoy..and seeing it oversaturated looks good to my eyes....

EDIT- And what do you mean when you say this?..... plus you're locked out of a bunch of options................ When you enable PC mode, you are locked out of setting manual options....With "Movie mode" as you call it, I can still set UHD, but I can also set different mode settings and can tweak AMP as well...PC mode disables all those options...So what options are you referring to?
 
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EDIT- And what do you mean when you say this?..... plus you're locked out of a bunch of options................ When you enable PC mode, you are locked out of setting manual options....With "Movie mode" as you call it, I can still set UHD, but I can also set different mode settings and can tweak AMP as well...PC mode disables all those options...So what options are you referring to?
Like I said, UHD color isn't really relevant for movie mode because it downsamples the color to 4:2:0 anyway.

And while the "Dynamic" preset has AMP you're locked out of the warm color tones and the entire "Advanced Settings" menu so you can't even set the 2-point White Balance. But all of those are meant to be used to get a natural and correct image, so if you think Dynamic looks good chances are you won't care about any of that.

I don't think there's really anything special with it either, it's just a preset and you could probably come close to it with the more accurate movie preset by enabling stuff like "Dynamic Contrast" and pumping up the saturation.
 
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