New Samsung 4k for everyone.

For the pci-e states - they can vary between rest and load times. Try putting a little load on the cards and the state should change to both @ pci-e 2.0 or 3.0 dep what motherboard you have..

Anyways.. your issue sounds like a cable or HDMI port issue.. maybe try flipping the cards or just run GPU2 in the primary pci-e slot for a little and see if it works. I don't know if that bios will help your 4k issues but I usually flash as a last resort.
 
upscaling is awesome on this new years ju series. I had hu6900 last year it was terrible i mean really blurry mess while using 1080p resources with it. It was looking so soft when i was using ps4 and digital sat receiver. It had superior blacks and viewing angles though.
 
VinnieM said:
I have a 980 Ti but I've never used NVidia 3D vision because it only works in 1080p and not in 4k. I'm using a 3rd party program for that: TriDef 3D Ignition (https://www.tridef.com/cart/product.php?productid=3). It's not free, but it works with a lot of games and in ultra HD at 60Hz! It uses the side-by-side technique, so the actual resolution is "only" 1920x2160, but it looks great. The TV can then convert it to 3D and you can use the glasses that come with the TV.
Click to expand...

Do you need turn on 3D on your TV settings or tridef 3D doesn't need that?
 
revenant said:
Weird. Maybe try a power drain with the power cable out for 5 or 10 mins. You running the latest fw?
Click to expand...

Well it randomly asked if I wanted to upgrade the software and since I accepted I haven't experienced the power cycle issue. /shrug
 
PC Surgeon said:
Well it randomly asked if I wanted to upgrade the software and since I accepted I haven't experienced the power cycle issue. /shrug
Click to expand...

boom! well, there ya go. Fingers crossed for ya.

Since I upped the fw on my video cards things gave been very stable - except for Tomb Raider hard locking my machine.. I remember there was a spot that did that my last go at it. That game looks pretty nice at 4k. I can run maxed out without the TressFX for the hair and have very smooth game play. My GTX970s surprised me with how well they handle 4k but I have been eyeballing titan-x cards too... I'm going to hold out for Pascal though, at this point I think. My setup works fine. I think Q1 of 2016 I am going to rebuild my whole gaming rig on a Z170/ddr4 platform anyways. Maybe even watercool again. I feel like a good PC project would be a lot of fun.

Anways.. I love my 6700 but the one thing that I that's a little con, I have to switch between HDMI1 and 2 bit to move between the PC and PS4 and I wish there was an auto sensing feature that would just grab the active input. The "source" menu is rather slow when you turn it on trying to switch inputs when the one you're on isn't active. Nothing major - just a little observation.
 
So I just found out that 6400 series supposedly has an IPS panel, while a curved 6700 (6500 in Europe) has a VA panel..

And I was like woooooooooooot? I bought a curved 6510 model some 6 months ago and I could not tolerate the atrocious viewing angles, so I was forced to send it back and take a garbage LG 4k TV with high input lag and overall a bad TV...But it was an IPS, so it does not bother me too much.

But now I saw this Rtings table.. IPS vs VA and a viewing angle of 44 vs 19 degrees as they measured it.. And now it all suddenly makes sense, how most of you were happy with viewing angles when I was screaming and crying here... Of course, the majority of you lot had a flat models.. :SSSSSSS:eek::eek::eek::mad:

Just something for you guys to consider if you are in a process of buying this "monitor". As a TV, there is no IPS/VA dilemma, since the viewing distance is much longer and consequently the viewing angle does not vary greatly... But with monitor you sit very close to the screen and viewing angle plays a huge role.. Colors get washed up rather quickly..
 
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JU6400 40,48 and 55 use VA panel maybe these bigger ones use IPS panel. Most here use these 40 and 48'' so they are still VA.
Edit: My bad, EU JU6400(USA JU6500) and USA JU6400 are different. Seems like USA JU6400 doesn't support 4:4:4 60hz.
 
FFS. I have a 40" 6700 ordered, but it hasn't shipped.

Wondering if I should cancel it now and save the $150 and grab the 6500
 
aadik said:
JU6400 40,48 and 55 use VA panel maybe these bigger ones use IPS panel. Most here use these 40 and 48'' so they are still VA.
Edit: My bad, EU JU6400(USA JU6500) and USA JU6400 are different. Seems like USA JU6400 doesn't support 4:4:4 60hz.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, so confusing.. Why can't they use the same models, Gawd dammit..

So perhaps it's like this:

JU6000 EU (flat) = JU6400 US (flat) = IPS, but without 4k@60Hz@4:4:4 support

JU6400 EU (flat) = JU6500 US (flat) = VA, but with 4k@60Hz@4:4:4 support

JU6500 EU (curved) = JU6700 US (curved) = VA, but with 4k@60Hz@4:4:4 support

In other words, if above is correct, there is no proper IPS samsung "monitor" after all.
 
Ok, so curved 40 inch JU6550 (=JU6700 in US) is 615€ at amazon.de, sold by amazon and in stock. Flat version of course is even less. :confused:

This is cheaper than bdm4065 or any other 40" or 32" 4k monitor in EU. While packing wifi and handful of tuners and the whole smarttv mobo. The curve is confirmed to be a benefit (reduces VA color shift in corners) in pc monitor scenarios. Frustrating situation if you are really looking for a monitor and don't have nvidia gpu.

Unfortunately the cheapest hdmi2 card right now is gtx950 around 170€ which pushes the whole package over my budget. I would also prefer a passively cooled videocard. In comparison, with DP you can drive 4k desktop 60hz 4:4:4 with the integrated intel gpu from motherboard dp output (completely silent system possible for dev work). DP to hdmi2 adapters are coming but not tested yet and added input lag is unknown

It is perplexing why the TVs with better specs are consistently cheaper than comparable monitors. Is the TV market really so much bigger? Considering the office skyscrapers are filled with monitors from top to bottom. Even if it is a bigger market it would seem very easy for samsung to just use the same panel and chassis, remove all the smarttv stuff and just add the DP input and sell it at the same price as their 40" TVs. It should make sense for them financially..

Rant over.
 
Having owned a JU7500 for almost a month now I can say that I NEVER notice the curve while using it. I'd recommend those debating on this feature to not include it in their calculations. In the end you pay more for something you won't notice. You might initially but give it a couple weeks and it becomes a non-issue. Save the extra scratch for something else. Just my .02
 
rik447 said:
It is perplexing why the TVs with better specs are consistently cheaper than comparable monitors. Is the TV market really so much bigger? Considering the office skyscrapers are filled with monitors from top to bottom. Even if it is a bigger market it would seem very easy for samsung to just use the same panel and chassis, remove all the smarttv stuff and just add the DP input and sell it at the same price as their 40" TVs. It should make sense for them financially..
Rant over.
Click to expand...

Exactly. The TV market is that much bigger and that much more competitive. Since it is a TV, it is priced against other 4k TVs and not against other 4k monitors. If Samsung took the same panel and changed the board on it so it would be a "monitor" they would still charge a $200 to $300 premium.


In other news, my 40" 6700 will be here Tuesday!
 
Well I am joining the club even though I sort of wanted to wait until next year to see if a Sony 810 series will come out in the 40"s but I can always get that later. For now, I am joining the club with the JU7100 which I found used for $576 and its supposed to have the screen in perfect condition but we shall see.
30 Day money back guarantee with paid shipping back so nothing to lose. Pissed off that they shipped it regular UPS instead of Expedited so we are solving that issue now but I am pretty excited about receiving it. :)
 
So I have had the JS9000 55" and 65" js9500, I prefer the 9000 series since it had a lower profile.

Can someone e help me with settings?

1. For movies I change source to blu ray? Anyone else? If so what are your old settings?

2. For pc I go to pc mode. Anyone have settings they recommend?

3. Games I can't decide whats better. In pc mode the colors feel off for example in Diablo 3 it looks great with dynamic contrast but.... Still.

Really could use help on what settings are good for what.
 
PC Surgeon said:
Having owned a JU7500 for almost a month now I can say that I NEVER notice the curve while using it. I'd recommend those debating on this feature to not include it in their calculations. In the end you pay more for something you won't notice. You might initially but give it a couple weeks and it becomes a non-issue. Save the extra scratch for something else. Just my .02
Click to expand...

By not noticing it do you mean off angle viewing still is worse?
 
illram said:
By not noticing it do you mean off angle viewing still is worse?
Click to expand...

That would be my biggest complaint with this TV. The color shift is pretty noticeable going from a sitting position to standing. So to be honest, it's more about being 'eye level' then it is about sitting to the left or right of the screen. It's not a deal breaker for me but I could see how it would be for others.
 
dpoverlord said:
So I have had the JS9000 55" and 65" js9500, I prefer the 9000 series since it had a lower profile.

Can someone e help me with settings?

1. For movies I change source to blu ray? Anyone else? If so what are your old settings?

2. For pc I go to pc mode. Anyone have settings they recommend?

3. Games I can't decide whats better. In pc mode the colors feel off for example in Diablo 3 it looks great with dynamic contrast but.... Still.

Really could use help on what settings are good for what.
Click to expand...
Not sure if this is valid for your set but my findings for the JS8500:

There are only really two source modes (the list you can select from when choosing "Edit Device Type" in the "Source" menu): "PC" mode (select "PC" or "DVI PC"), which gives you 4:4:4 color but locks out a lot of color and calibration options, and let's call it "Movie" mode (select any of the other options in the list, they're all the same) which gives you 4:2:0 color but finer control. While in "Movie" mode you can then enable "Game" mode which gives you 4:2:2 color, locks out some options (though not as many as PC mode) and decreases input lag.

My set forces the Movie mode if you send it anything under 59/60Hz (even if it still says "PC" in the info), which sounds like it could be annoying but is actually really useful. It means I can have the set on PC mode all the time and get 4:4:4 while in the desktop environment, and then I have MPC-HC configured to change to 23Hz when it goes fullscreen, which means it automatically also changes the set to Movie mode and I get judder-free playback and better and more accurate colors for movies (and of course it also automatically returns to PC mode when I close the player.)

One thing about PC mode is that it locks the colorspace to "Native" which causes almost supersaturated bright reds and greens. It's OK for the most part but sometimes gets a bit much, and definitely not accurate for movies and so on.

As for games, if the input lag isn't too bad for a particular game and the 4:2:0 color isn't a problem I actually prefer using Movie mode as then I can use the "de-blur" control in Auto Motion Plus to reduce the strobing motion blur (only with 4K signals though, input lag in Movie mode for 1080p is insane.)

Otherwise I generally just use PC mode, mostly because enabling and disabling Game mode is such a hassle. I don't find the difference in input lag between them worth the effort, though sometimes not having the oversaturation of the Native colorspace is a bit nicer.

I suppose I could post my full settings but I've only calibrated my set by eye and I'm not sure how much would apply to other sets.
 
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greywarden said:
I can get 30Hz 4:4:4 with 12bit color depth without issue, but when I set the refresh rate to 60Hz the screen goes black and I get a "no signal" notification on the TV. I've tried it with and without SLI enabled.
Click to expand...
If you can do it at 30Hz but not 60 then it does sound like a cable problem. HDMI cables are a crapshoot, it seems most manufacturers just slap the "high-speed" label on the packaging and then use whatever crap they can get away with for the actual cable because they're counting on the fact that 90% of customers aren't going to go over 1080p60 anyway.

Also on my GTX970 I can only do 8bit with 4:4:4 60Hz, it's the only option in the drop-down menu, so maybe try dropping it to 8bit first and then change to 60Hz?

Other than that I don't know. Haven't used any kind of SLI since the Voodoo2 days so not sure how it works now or if it would make any difference, but if everything else failed I would try to physically remove one card just to be sure it wasn't still interfering somehow.
 
Pakk said:
If you can do it at 30Hz but not 60 then it does sound like a cable problem. HDMI cables are a crapshoot, it seems most manufacturers just slap the "high-speed" label on the packaging and then use whatever crap they can get away with for the actual cable because they're counting on the fact that 90% of customers aren't going to go over 1080p60 anyway.

Also on my GTX970 I can only do 8bit with 4:4:4 60Hz, it's the only option in the drop-down menu, so maybe try dropping it to 8bit first and then change to 60Hz?

Other than that I don't know. Haven't used any kind of SLI since the Voodoo2 days so not sure how it works now or if it would make any difference, but if everything else failed I would try to physically remove one card just to be sure it wasn't still interfering somehow.
Click to expand...

I have two calbes, one that several people on AVS have said worked for them, and the other has HDMI Premium certification, Blue Jeans Cable, and the owner is on the AVS forum, also several members have them and they work. The cables are 6-7 ft long, so I'm 95% sure it's not a cable problem.

That being said, my current mobo/cpu are very tempermental, so I'm moving to an i5-4690K that I have and a Z97 Classified that is on it's way atm. I'm hoping that the newer chipset will fix the issue.
 
greywarden said:
I have two calbes, one that several people on AVS have said worked for them, and the other has HDMI Premium certification, Blue Jeans Cable, and the owner is on the AVS forum, also several members have them and they work. The cables are 6-7 ft long, so I'm 95% sure it's not a cable problem.

That being said, my current mobo/cpu are very tempermental, so I'm moving to an i5-4690K that I have and a Z97 Classified that is on it's way atm. I'm hoping that the newer chipset will fix the issue.
Click to expand...

Is there a newer bios available for your GTX970? That ended up being the root of my issues..
 
Pakk said:
Not sure if this is valid for your set but my findings for the JS8500:

There are only really two source modes (the list you can select from when choosing "Edit Device Type" in the "Source" menu): "PC" mode (select "PC" or "DVI PC"), which gives you 4:4:4 color but locks out a lot of color and calibration options, and let's call it "Movie" mode (select any of the other options in the list, they're all the same) which gives you 4:2:0 color but finer control. While in "Movie" mode you can then enable "Game" mode which gives you 4:2:2 color, locks out some options (though not as many as PC mode) and decreases input lag.

My set forces the Movie mode if you send it anything under 59/60Hz (even if it still says "PC" in the info), which sounds like it could be annoying but is actually really useful. It means I can have the set on PC mode all the time and get 4:4:4 while in the desktop environment, and then I have MPC-HC configured to change to 23Hz when it goes fullscreen, which means it automatically also changes the set to Movie mode and I get judder-free playback and better and more accurate colors for movies (and of course it also automatically returns to PC mode when I close the player.)

One thing about PC mode is that it locks the colorspace to "Native" which causes almost supersaturated bright reds and greens. It's OK for the most part but sometimes gets a bit much, and definitely not accurate for movies and so on.

As for games, if the input lag isn't too bad for a particular game and the 4:2:0 color isn't a problem I actually prefer using Movie mode as then I can use the "de-blur" control in Auto Motion Plus to reduce the strobing motion blur (only with 4K signals though, input lag in Movie mode for 1080p is insane.)

Otherwise I generally just use PC mode, mostly because enabling and disabling Game mode is such a hassle. I don't find the difference in input lag between them worth the effort, though sometimes not having the oversaturation of the Native colorspace is a bit nicer.

I suppose I could post my full settings but I've only calibrated my set by eye and I'm not sure how much would apply to other sets.
Click to expand...

My Samsung UN50JU6500 does the same thing. I have it set to PC mode at 1080p 60Hz and it passes 4:4:4 or full RGB without a problem. Once MPC-HC takes over and the set displays anything less than 60Hz it changes displays to "movie" mode where I also have full control over calibration. At first I was kind of annoyed by this because wouldn't it be better to watch a movie when it passes 4:4:4?

Do you think its more beneficial to run movies at 1080p 23hz with 4:2:0 and have it fully calibrated as opposed to at 60Hz with 4:4:4 and limited calibration? Apparently Rtings states that my TV has 24p judder but I havent noticed it yet.
 
EviL-aLphA said:
Do you think its more beneficial to run movies at 1080p 23hz with 4:2:0 and have it fully calibrated as opposed to at 60Hz with 4:4:4 and limited calibration? Apparently Rtings states that my TV has 24p judder but I havent noticed it yet.
Click to expand...

Movies are in 4:2:0
 
dpoverlord said:
So I have had the JS9000 55" and 65" js9500, I prefer the 9000 series since it had a lower profile.

Can someone e help me with settings?

1. For movies I change source to blu ray? Anyone else? If so what are your old settings?

2. For pc I go to pc mode. Anyone have settings they recommend?

3. Games I can't decide whats better. In pc mode the colors feel off for example in Diablo 3 it looks great with dynamic contrast but.... Still.

Really could use help on what settings are good for what.
Click to expand...

Have you reviewed this guide created specifically for this task?

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1869675

I recommend using Game/Game mode for most applications; the reduction in mouse lag is substantial with only a minor impact to image quality. I don't recommend his color tone or HDMI Black level suggestions, but you can season to taste based on your personal preferences. Also please verify that you have enabled HDMI UHD color.

Best wishes!
 
i've been looking at a 40 JS7500 or a 48 JS9000 for my desktop monitor. for you guys out there that have some experience, is it worth paying an extra $1k for a JS9000 ?
 
delita said:
i've been looking at a 40 JS7500 or a 48 JS9000 for my desktop monitor. for you guys out there that have some experience, is it worth paying an extra $1k for a JS9000 ?
Click to expand...

Yes - provided you have the means to justify the extra expense.
 
I am getting pretty frustrated with my 40 inch ju6500. I am close to returning it. The issue I am having right now is windows resizing when switching inputs. Since I am running multiple PCs and switching between them often this is very annoying. I have done the registry fix in the guide. This was working for me for some time but after either a windows update or an Nvidia update the reg fix isn't working. Even tried starting a new registry hive. I have read you can also fix this by removing a HDMI pin... I am tempted to do this but this seems a little extreme and I am paranoid about using a hacked cable. IE any other issue that popped up my mind will always go to the hacked cable...

Anyways, does anyone know if I switch from a regular HDMI cable to a DVI to HDMI cable if this will eliminate the window re-size issue?
 
Anyone having trouble with eye strain/fatigue?

I have the un40ju6700 with the brightness turned down to 7. I sit at least three free away from it.

I sat in front of this monitor for maybe 30 mins last night and I felt the eye fatigue. I don't think im overly sensitive to PWM, but my old catlead 27" did both me after extended use. At work, I use a dell u3415w all day long with no side effects. Just trying to figure out if i'm going to end up having to return this or not. I love the size!

Side question, how much does amazon dock you if you open a new tv and return it?
 
Can anyone please tell me what the preferred connection is for the TV? HDMI or DP?
 
harsaphes said:
Can anyone please tell me what the preferred connection is for the TV? HDMI or DP?
Click to expand...

Just a quick fyi, this dp to hdmi adapter which is capable of 60hz and 4:4:4 chroma, is due out any day now.
 
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Ski said:
Just a quick fyi, this dp to hdmi adapter which is capable of 60hz and 4:4:4 chroma, is due out any day now.
Click to expand...
Seems like it doesn't support 32bit colors and only 24bit max.

''Supports UHD Resolutions up to 3840x2160p at 60Hz with 24 bit color and 4:4:4 color sampling''
 
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