New Samsung 4k for everyone.

mkia said:
Not sure I agree with that.
Click to expand...

Here is what happens:

YCbCr mode only outputs limited range. It does not support full range. So your card sends 16-235 and monitor receives 16 as minimum and 235 as maximum value. Things look as they should

Now if you switch the card to RGB full mode but leave the TV in HDMI Black level Auto/Low:

Card sends 0-255. TV receives it but treats 16 and below as pure black and 235 and above as pure color. So in effect you crush the blacks and whites and over saturate the rest of the image (colors get brighter).

When you switch to HDMI Black level normal

Card sends 0-255. TV receives and expects 0 to be minimum and 255 to be maximum brightness. Things look as they should.

If you do not believe me do this test. Set contrast to 100. Brightness to 45 and back-light to 20.

Set the card to output RGB Full mode. Set the TV to HDMI Black level auto/low.

Open this image:
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

See how all the blacks got crushed. Boxes 1-15 now all look black.

Ok now increase brightness to 60. Now the blacks look correct again.

Then keeping HDMI level low and 60 brightness Open this image:
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php

See how you cannot tell the boxes 29, 30, 31 apart anymore ?. They are all max brightness.

Now lower contrast to 90 in TV. Now you can tell them apart. You are basically correcting here for the TV interpreting colors below 16 as black and colors above 235 as pure color by increasing brightness and lowering contrast.


Now keep the HDMI black level low. Go back to 100 contrast, 45 brightness but go to your control panel and have the card output RGB limited. The above two images will look correct. No white crush no black crush.

Now go back to HDMI black level normal and RGB full. Things will look normal still.
 
19374539249_c09c67e6a1_k.jpg


Glad to have it (48" 6700), now just to wait for the full release of Windows 10 so I can snap 4 windows and I'll be in heaven.

I'm going to have to go through this thread and see about settings and stuff, but doing just basic stuff to get the 4:4:4 working and it looks pretty good to me. Was just messing with the settings above and tried normal and the blacks all turned gray, I went back to auto, looks better to me.
 
Ziran said:
On Samsung TVs:

Auto/Low = limited range
Normal = full range
YCbCr = limited range (forced)
Click to expand...

Do you have proof of this? As far as I know, with YCBCR, I don't get black crush, same as RGB full. It's actually the opposite of RGB/Low. I'm actually on RGB/Normal since they fixed it in firmware, but I see no difference between YCBCR and RGB/Normal.
 
superbike81 said:
Glad to have it (48" 6700), now just to wait for the full release of Windows 10 so I can snap 4 windows and I'll be in heaven.

I'm going to have to go through this thread and see about settings and stuff, but doing just basic stuff to get the 4:4:4 working and it looks pretty good to me. Was just messing with the settings above and tried normal and the blacks all turned gray, I went back to auto, looks better to me.
Click to expand...

Outputing RGB full but having the TV set to RGB limited (HDMI Black auto/low) will over saturate the image. Colors get brighter. Setting HDMI Black normal will look "hazy" in comparison. Give your eyes a minute to adjust and the "haze" perception will go away.

You can achieve the exact same effect by going to NVIDIA control panel. Adjust desktop color settings and increaseing "Digital Vibrance". It will do the exact same thing. Over saturate your image if you increase it above default 50%.

Anyway if you like it that way, there is nothing wrong with it =)
 
Cyph said:
Do you have proof of this? As far as I know, with YCBCR, I don't get black crush, same as RGB full. It's actually the opposite of RGB/Low. I'm actually on RGB/Normal since they fixed it in firmware, but I see no difference between YCBCR and RGB/Normal.
Click to expand...

All 3 will produce a very similar looking image:

1) YCbCr
2) RGB limited + HDMI auto/low
3) RGB full + HDMI normal

#1 and #2 are pretty much identical (just a different way of encoding color but both can display 220 unique shades of each color).

The #3 will look very similar except your display can show 256 shades of every color instead of the 220 shades possible in #1 & #2. The black and whites are the same but the # 1 & #2 have 220 shades in between. #3 has 256 shades

So effectively :

#1 & #2 can display 9.6m unique colors (220*220*220)
#3 can display 16m unique colors (256*256*256)

For explanation and proof read post 4441 in this thread
 
Ziran said:
All 3 will produce a very similar looking image:

1) YCbCr
2) RGB limited + HDMI auto/low
3) RGB full + HDMI normal

#1 and #2 are pretty much identical (just a different way of encoding color but both can display 220 unique shades of each color).

The #3 will look very similar except your display can show 256 shades of every color instead of the 220 shades possible in #1 & #2. The black and whites are the same but the # 1 & #2 have 220 shades in between. #3 has 256 shades

So effectively :

#1 & #2 can display 9.6m unique colors (220*220*220)
#3 can display 16m unique colors (256*256*256)

For explanation and proof read post 4441 in this thread
Click to expand...

Sorry, Ziran. I have to disagree on this. I just tested it myself. YCBCR and RGB/Normal is the SAME. I can read every single blocks using your test. The fact that "limited/full" is grayed out is because it's set to full automatically. There is no crushed blacks.

I'm all ears if you have another experiment that shows crushed blacks on YCBCR.
 
Cyph said:
Sorry, Ziran. I have to disagree on this. I just tested it myself. YCBCR and RGB/Normal is the SAME. I can read every single blocks using your test. The fact that "limited/full" is grayed out is because it's set to full automatically. There is no crushed blacks.

I'm all ears if you have another experiment that shows crushed blacks on YCBCR.
Click to expand...

You beat me to it but I concur.

Want to reiterate, I am advocating using the settings that you enjoy. I just find this interesting.
 
Cyph said:
Sorry, Ziran. I have to disagree on this. I just tested it myself. YCBCR and RGB/Normal is the SAME
Click to expand...

Just to make sure I understand this correctly ..

When you say RGB/Normal, do you mean
- Card set to RGB Full
- TV set to HDMI Black Normal
Or something else ?

Because if so, Ziran already stated that those two options should produce similar results.
 
Been lurking this forum for quite some time and decided to go with the 48js9000. Have a couple questions/observations (for reference I am plugging this into a Windows 8.1 PC with a Titan X):

1) Not sure if I am misunderstanding exactly how scaling works in Windows 8.1, but I came from a 32” 4k (Acer B326HK) and had it 150%. Everything looked good, but was a little small still, occasionally I would have to squint or get closer to the screen. Part of the reason I wanted to step up to the 9000 was so everything would be bigger and I could go with no scaling.

Well, when I got it all set up and switched to 100% in windows, the text looked horrible on the 9000. Way to small and blurry/unclear/weird colors on the edges. I switched it to 150% and it was perfect. Size and clarity was great. My understanding is that 100% should have been larger since you're using a bigger screen, but it seemed to stay at the same relative size as if I had it 100% on the 32” Acer. So I am not understanding why it was small and why it looked so bad?

2) Maybe part if it is related to proper 4:4:4 settings: I am plugged into HDMI 1 and set the device type to “PC.” HDMI UHD Color is on. When I select “info” it says I am at 3840x2160/60P, the right corner indicates “HDMI UHD Color” and below that is UHD in a box.

Everything seems to look good, but I was curious to see what it looks like at 4:2:2 for comparison. So, I turned off UHD Color, the TV rebooted and the text looks the same!? In the info field up top it now says 3840x2160/30P and still has the UHD in a box to the right. The only difference is "HDMI UHD Color" is no longer indicated above the boxed "UHD." Is this correct? I thought it would stay at 60P, but just look worse since it should now be at 4:2:2- maybe the UHD indication should have gone away? I know there were some 4:4:4 test patterns posted way back when, but then I read some responses that said they weren't good tests, etc. Is there a definitive test I can use?

3) The 48” is the perfect size for me. I sit about 2 ¾' from the screen and it's a little too close right now. I am going to wall mount it to give me another couple inches of distance which will be perfect. Right now it's on my desk with the supplied stand. Visually, it seems like the top is closer to me than the bottom so it looks like I will switch to a wall mount so I can angle it slightly upwards. I also intend to attach the free Samsung soundbar that came with it as the sound directly from the TV is not as good as I thought it was going to be- basically zero low end. Previously I was using some Logitech 2.1 speakers which were surprisingly good. I'm hoping the soundbar will sound as good if not better (haven't hooked it up yet).

For those using a soundbar, what is the preferred method for hooking it up using just a PC and the 9000? Optical from the PC to the soundbar, HDMI from the TV to the soundbar, other?

4) The time in the info bar is an hour behind my real time. I set the time to “Auto,” but it wouldn't update correctly. Switched it to manual, entered the real time, put it back to auto and it stayed the right time. Doesn't make sense. I have a Samsung 65HU8550 in the other room and it's auto time is correct with no manual manipulation required. Anyone else have this problem?

5) Random observations: Great color. Very pleased with how satisfying a monitor (TV) this big is and able to sit so close to it. One connect box is a little loud, but I will be moving it further away from me. The curve is actually pretty effective for when you sit so close to something of this size. Responsiveness/lag is a non-issue.
 
Cyph said:
Sorry, Ziran. I have to disagree on this. I just tested it myself. YCBCR and RGB/Normal is the SAME. I can read every single blocks using your test. The fact that "limited/full" is grayed out is because it's set to full automatically. There is no crushed blacks.

I'm all ears if you have another experiment that shows crushed blacks on YCBCR.
Click to expand...

http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration/hdmi-black-levels-xvycc-rgb

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1041719018&postcount=4395

Black and white levels for video components shall be either “Full Range” or “Limited Range.” YCbCr components shall always be Limited Range while RGB components may be either Full Range or Limited Range. While using RGB, Limited Range shall be used for all video formats defined in CEA-861-D, with the exception of VGA (640x480) format, which requires Full Range.
Click to expand...

Limited range does not mean crushed blacks. It just means there are 220 shades of color between darkest black and maximum brightness color.

Full range means 256 shades of color.

The only time you have a problem is when your sending and receiving ranges do not match:

Good:
YCbCr - sender and receiver is always limited range
RGB full + HDMI black level normal
RGB limited + HDMI black level low/auto

Bad:
RGB full + HDMI black level low/auto
RGB limited + HDMI black level normal
 
superbike81 said:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/523/19374539249_c09c67e6a1_k.jpg

Glad to have it (48" 6700), now just to wait for the full release of Windows 10 so I can snap 4 windows and I'll be in heaven.

I'm going to have to go through this thread and see about settings and stuff, but doing just basic stuff to get the 4:4:4 working and it looks pretty good to me. Was just messing with the settings above and tried normal and the blacks all turned gray, I went back to auto, looks better to me.
Click to expand...

Nice!

If you don't mind me asking, what is that little tablet looking thing on the left, and what do you use it for? Extra screen?

I've seen a few people on these forums with what looks like a tablet set up next to their screens, and it has made me curious!
 
Tony Jenkins said:
4) The time in the info bar is an hour behind my real time. I set the time to “Auto,” but it wouldn't update correctly. Switched it to manual, entered the real time, put it back to auto and it stayed the right time. Doesn't make sense. I have a Samsung 65HU8550 in the other room and it's auto time is correct with no manual manipulation required. Anyone else have this problem?
Click to expand...

Make sure you set your time zone in the Time menu correctly. If you are consistently off by 1 hour that is almost certainly it.

Also my TV would not set the time correctly (it was way off). I set it manually correctly once and put it back on auto and its tracking it correctly.

I noticed something similar with Windows. If my PC time was off by more then 24 hours the auto adjustment would fail. I had to get it "close" then it would adjust properly from then on. Could be something with the way time synchronization protocols are written.
 
Tony Jenkins said:
Been lurking this forum for quite some time and decided to go with the 48js9000. Have a couple questions/observations (for reference I am plugging this into a Windows 8.1 PC with a Titan X):

2) Maybe part if it is related to proper 4:4:4 settings: I am plugged into HDMI 1 and set the device type to “PC.” HDMI UHD Color is on. When I select “info” it says I am at 3840x2160/60P, the right corner indicates “HDMI UHD Color” and below that is UHD in a box.

Everything seems to look good, but I was curious to see what it looks like at 4:2:2 for comparison. So, I turned off UHD Color, the TV rebooted and the text looks the same!? In the info field up top it now says 3840x2160/30P and still has the UHD in a box to the right. The only difference is "HDMI UHD Color" is no longer indicated above the boxed "UHD." Is this correct? I thought it would stay at 60P, but just look worse since it should now be at 4:2:2- maybe the UHD indication should have gone away? I know there were some 4:4:4 test patterns posted way back when, but then I read some responses that said they weren't good tests, etc. Is there a definitive test I can use?
Click to expand...

This image is the best 4:4:4 test on Samsung TV I found (the old Fox jumped over image is good for testing 4:2:0 vs 4:4:4 but not as good for distinguishing 4:2:2: vs 4:4:4)

http://i4.minus.com/ibyJcwdIniHUEs.png

Make sure you view it 100% size (or full screen). It does not work if it is scaled down to smaller size.

If you see solid 4:4:4 at the bottom and faint 4:2:2 at the top that means you have full 4:4:4 chroma. When you move the image around on screen the 4:2:2 will flash. That is normal (for VA panel anyway)

If you have 4:2:2 it will be opposite. 4:2:2 will be solid color and 4:4:4 will be faint.

To see difference between 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 just turn on GAME mode (set input device type to GAME first, then go System and set GAME mode).
 
Tony Jenkins said:
1) Not sure if I am misunderstanding exactly how scaling works in Windows 8.1, but I came from a 32” 4k (Acer B326HK) and had it 150%. Everything looked good, but was a little small still, occasionally I would have to squint or get closer to the screen. Part of the reason I wanted to step up to the 9000 was so everything would be bigger and I could go with no scaling.

Well, when I got it all set up and switched to 100% in windows, the text looked horrible on the 9000. Way to small and blurry/unclear/weird colors on the edges. I switched it to 150% and it was perfect. Size and clarity was great. My understanding is that 100% should have been larger since you're using a bigger screen, but it seemed to stay at the same relative size as if I had it 100% on the 32” Acer. So I am not understanding why it was small and why it looked so bad?
Click to expand...

48 inch 4k monitor has the exact same DPI as 32 inch 1440p monitor (i.e. a picture 100 pixels wide will be approximately 1 inch on both monitors. Their pixel "density" is the same)

That means the fonts will be exactly the same size. You will just have a larger screen real estate to move them around on (or you can increase windows scaling to make fonts and windows bigger and easier to see. With 48 inches you have room to spare now).

Also I found it helps to re-calibrate the ClearType Font settings in windows. The defaults do not look that good on JS9000 for some reason.

In Windows 7.1 go there to get to those settings (don't have directions handy for win 8)

Control Panel -> Appearance and Personalization -> Fonts -> Adjust ClearType text

Make sure "Turn on ClearType" is checked and and then just click next and select the images that look best on your LCD.
 
Ziran said:
48 inch 4k monitor has the exact same DPI as 32 inch 1440 monitor.
That means the fonts will be exactly the same size. You will just have a larger screen real estate to move them around on.
Click to expand...


I don't think I've ever used a 32" 1440p screen, but some other comparisons of more typical screen sizes are below:

Code: 
Diameter	Resolution	PPI		% Diff vs 40" 4k	% Diff vs 48" 4k
23"		1920x1080	95.77857261	15.00%			-4.17%
24"		1920x1200	94.33981132	16.75%			-2.71%
27"		2560x1440	108.7855393	1.25%			-15.63%
30"		2560x1600	100.6291321	9.46%			-8.79%
28"		3840x2160	157.3505121	-30.00%			-41.67%
40"		3840x2160	110.1453585	0.00%			-16.67%
48"		3840x2160	91.78779875	20.00%			0.00%

Of all of these, the 48" 4k screen actually has the lowest PPI. Things are slightly bigger on this screen than on both the main screen it replaced (30" Dell U3011 2560x1600) and my side monitors (20" 1600x1200) so unless you are sitting far away, there should be no reason to scale it, and if you sit that far away, you are missing out on a lot of the added benefits of 4K anyway :p
 
Zarathustra[H];1041721413 said:
Nice!

If you don't mind me asking, what is that little tablet looking thing on the left, and what do you use it for? Extra screen?

I've seen a few people on these forums with what looks like a tablet set up next to their screens, and it has made me curious!
Click to expand...

It's just an old Motorola Xoom (one of the original Android tablets). I've installed the latest software on it and mostly use it for PDF documents, textbooks, and sometimes YouTube videos. I'm sure it could be used for other stuff, but that's about all I use it for.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041721473 said:
I don't think I've ever used a 32" 1440p screen, but some other comparisons of more typical screen sizes are below:

Code: 
Diameter	Resolution	PPI		% Diff vs 40" 4k	% Diff vs 48" 4k
23"		1920x1080	95.77857261	15.00%			-4.17%
24"		1920x1200	94.33981132	16.75%			-2.71%
27"		2560x1440	108.7855393	1.25%			-15.63%
30"		2560x1600	100.6291321	9.46%			-8.79%
28"		3840x2160	157.3505121	-30.00%			-41.67%
40"		3840x2160	110.1453585	0.00%			-16.67%
48"		3840x2160	91.78779875	20.00%			0.00%

Of all of these, the 48" 4k screen actually has the lowest PPI. Things are slightly bigger on this screen than on both the main screen it replaced (30" Dell U3011 2560x1600) and my side monitors (20" 1600x1200) so unless you are sitting far away, there should be no reason to scale it, and if you sit that far away, you are missing out on a lot of the added benefits of 4K anyway :p
Click to expand...


91.79 PPI, 0.2767mm dot pitch (32" 1440p)

Horizontal resolution: 2560
Vertical resolution: 1440p
Diagonal: inches (81.28cm)
Display size: 27.89" × 15.69" = 437.55in² (70.84cm × 39.85cm = 2822.93cm²) at 91.79 PPI, 0.2767mm dot pitch
 
Ziran said:
48 inch 4k monitor has the exact same DPI as 32 inch 1440p monitor (i.e. a picture 100 pixels wide will be approximately 1 inch on both monitors. Their pixel "density" is the same)

That means the fonts will be exactly the same size. You will just have a larger screen real estate to move them around on (or you can increase windows scaling to make fonts and windows bigger and easier to see. With 48 inches you have room to spare now).
Click to expand...

Forgive me if I'm misunderstanding either of you, but the way I read his post, I think he was surprised that text with no scaling on the 48" Samsung was the same size as text with no scaling on the 32" Acer...which was 4K, not 1440p.

Your explanation makes sense if he was coming from a 32" 1440p, but it was a 4K display. So I'm stumped. It should be physically impossible for native text to be the same size on both displays considering the difference in pixel size. His new display has the same amount of pixels - they are just larger. Thus text should be larger, assuming 100% on both displays.

Something's amiss, Tony. Text should have looked perfect at 100% on your JS9000 if you had the settings configured correctly, and it should have been noticeably larger than text at 100% on the 32" Acer 4K.
 
Hmmm...added a second 980 Ti in SLI today but suddenly getting handshake issues with the 48JU7500 (PC boots, displays windows starting, but goes to a 'no cable connected' black screens at desktop).

You can hear the audio and loadup of the desktop, works, but the signal is lost when it finishes.

Tried my Dell 30" and everything works great, SLI enabled, no problems, but for whatever reason the signal isn't connecting with the 7500 as it has since I got it.

Changed resolutions, upgraded/downgraded drivers, flipped UHD on and off, tried different ports, etc, no luck.

Stumped on this one, hasn't occurred before. Maybe a hard reboot on the Samsung will clean it out, factory reset basically.
 
Ziran said:
This image is the best 4:4:4 test on Samsung TV I found (the old Fox jumped over image is good for testing 4:2:0 vs 4:4:4 but not as good for distinguishing 4:2:2: vs 4:4:4)

http://i4.minus.com/ibyJcwdIniHUEs.png
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, the image confirms I am in 4:4:4. What really surprises me though is that there seemed to be little if any difference in text on websites between that and 4:2:2.

imyourzero said:
Forgive me if I'm misunderstanding either of you, but the way I read his post, I think he was surprised that text with no scaling on the 48" Samsung was the same size as text with no scaling on the 32" Acer...which was 4K, not 1440p.

Your explanation makes sense if he was coming from a 32" 1440p, but it was a 4K display. So I'm stumped. It should be physically impossible for native text to be the same size on both displays considering the difference in pixel size. His new display has the same amount of pixels - they are just larger. Thus text should be larger, assuming 100% on both displays.

Something's amiss, Tony. Text should have looked perfect at 100% on your JS9000 if you had the settings configured correctly, and it should have been noticeably larger than text at 100% on the 32" Acer 4K.
Click to expand...

This is correct. Although, I should clarify, the text was not "exactly" the same size at 100% between the 32" and 48." Rather, I thought the text size @ 100% on the 48" would be closer or greater than what it was perceived as @ 150% on the 32".

Instead, the text was still way too small to read comfortably @ 100% on the 48". And even more troubling it looked really, really bad- basically like what I heard 4:2:2 is supposed to look like (off-colored edges, blurry, etc). I was trying to confirm that I had the settings right, which it appears I do. Still weird that it looks so bad at 100%, but good at 150%.

Maybe I am doing something wrong in selecting the scaling? I go to the Display settings and choose either 100% or 150% with "Let me choose one scaling level for all my displays" checked. Or, if I un-check that option, I move the slider between "smaller" and "larger" all the way to the left for 100% or keep it in the middle for 150%. I believe either method produces the same results as far as scaling goes?
 
@Tony

I remember reading that in Windows 8.1 you cannot select different font scaling when using multiple monitors. I don't know what Windows 10 will bring on that front - hopefully something better.

Regarding sound bar hookup. I have mine setup so that the HDMI ARC port on the OneConnect box is plugged into the sound bar. You then just need to find the correct audio input for the sound bar. Then go into Sound in the control panel and select the HDMI out (don't remember the exact name). The one thing that tripped me up until I actually read the manual was I would have though the I would use the HDMI named audio input on the sound bar, but it actually needed to be D.In (digital in).

Good luck and hope you enjoy it!
 
Tony Jenkins said:
This is correct. Although, I should clarify, the text was not "exactly" the same size at 100% between the 32" and 48." Rather, I thought the text size @ 100% on the 48" would be closer or greater than what it was perceived as @ 150% on the 32".
Click to expand...

Sorry I just noticed your old 32 inch display was 4k as well. In that case yes the text should have gotten larger. The only thing I can think of is that you are sitting further away. Your screen size went up 1.5x at same resolution so everything should have gotten 50% larger as well.

And even more troubling it looked really, really bad
Click to expand...

Go through Windows clear type adjustment. I had the same problem on my 55JS9000 and that cured it.
 
Mako360 said:
Hmmm...added a second 980 Ti in SLI today but suddenly getting handshake issues with the 48JU7500 (PC boots, displays windows starting, but goes to a 'no cable connected' black screens at desktop).

You can hear the audio and loadup of the desktop, works, but the signal is lost when it finishes.

Tried my Dell 30" and everything works great, SLI enabled, no problems, but for whatever reason the signal isn't connecting with the 7500 as it has since I got it.

Changed resolutions, upgraded/downgraded drivers, flipped UHD on and off, tried different ports, etc, no luck.

Stumped on this one, hasn't occurred before. Maybe a hard reboot on the Samsung will clean it out, factory reset basically.
Click to expand...

Well after dicking with just about every possible thing (drivers, re-seating the cards, cables, etc), I decided to re-seat the Connect One box connections and sure enough...

The main connection wasn't loose at all prior, was seated firmly, no play. No idea why that worked or why it caused a problem in the first place. And even though that seems to have fixed the issue, that same connection was displaying Safe Mode no problem before. Really bizarre.
 
Now this is odd.

My first two JS9000's that I returned never had this issue, but the current one now has an audible fan noise eminating from the one connect box whenever the screen is turned on.

I mean, its lower in volume than my office window AC unit and my desktop when fans are turned up for games, but still.

Does anyone else have a noisy One Connect box?
 
Has the weather/room temp got hotter where you are?
It may have a temp sensor fan.
 
Ziran said:
http://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-calibration/hdmi-black-levels-xvycc-rgb

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1041719018&postcount=4395



Limited range does not mean crushed blacks. It just means there are 220 shades of color between darkest black and maximum brightness color.

Full range means 256 shades of color.

The only time you have a problem is when your sending and receiving ranges do not match:

Good:
YCbCr - sender and receiver is always limited range
RGB full + HDMI black level normal
RGB limited + HDMI black level low/auto

Bad:
RGB full + HDMI black level low/auto
RGB limited + HDMI black level normal
Click to expand...

Those articles mentioned that YCBCR can output 0-255 as well. I'm not sure how it's limited when both tests for black crush and 255 max color passes without any adjustments in brightness or contrast. It's obvious that 0-255 is the output just like RGB/full. There are also certain articles that mentioned LOW is the same as full, and normal is limited. Samsung obviously doesn't work the same way. I've run all tests, and YBCBr on the Samsung is the same as RGB/full/normal.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041722241 said:
Now this is odd.

My first two JS9000's that I returned never had this issue, but the current one now has an audible fan noise eminating from the one connect box whenever the screen is turned on.

I mean, its lower in volume than my office window AC unit and my desktop when fans are turned up for games, but still.

Does anyone else have a noisy One Connect box?
Click to expand...

Since it's an octa chip, I wonder if you just got the short end of the silicon lottery. The 980Ti can differ in temp by 20 degrees with the same heat sink, so it could be that you got a crappy chip in this One Connect. Depending on if it bothers you enough, a warranty replacement of the box might be in order. Or maybe you can swing a replacement with the retailer for the box itself.
 
People have mentioned the noisy One Connect boxes. I can hear the fan in mine if the room is dead silent, but I typically have an air purifier running to keep dust in check which drowns out any noise from the box or my PC (also the reason I use closed headphones rather than open).

The one for the JS9000 seems to be louder than the smaller one for the JU7500. Well, I shouldn't say louder, because it isn't loud...how about "more audible." :)
 
Yeah the free S6 promo starts at 7/19 and I believe you can just go here to apply: samsungpromotions.com
I wonder if this works for those who bought it before the promo.
2gDhWVd.png
 
seanclayton said:
I wonder if this works for those who bought it before the promo.
Click to expand...

I highly doubt that.

It will probably require a sales receipt dated between 7/19.2015 and 8/1/2015. This is how these things usually work.

The purpose of the promotion is to sell more units, not to give away free shit to people who have already bought the unit. Besides, I got a free (albeit mediocre) sound bar out of the deal. (in retrospect I should have picked the free 32" TV for the guest room instead)
 
Zarathustra[H];1041722475 said:
I highly doubt that.

It will probably require a sales receipt dated between 7/19.2015 and 8/1/2015. This is how these things usually work.

The purpose of the promotion is to sell more units, not to give away free shit to people who have already bought the unit. Besides, I got a free (albeit mediocre) sound bar out of the deal. (in retrospect I should have picked the free 32" TV for the guest room instead)
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I'd also make sure you check with Samsung to make sure whomever you are buying from is a authorized Samsung dealer.
 
Cyph said:
Those articles mentioned that YCBCR can output 0-255 as well. I'm not sure how it's limited when both tests for black crush and 255 max color passes without any adjustments in brightness or contrast. It's obvious that 0-255 is the output just like RGB/full. There are also certain articles that mentioned LOW is the same as full, and normal is limited. Samsung obviously doesn't work the same way. I've run all tests, and YBCBr on the Samsung is the same as RGB/full/normal.
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"Limited" here just means it uses 16-235 range to encode instead of 0-255. 16 corresponds to 0 and 235 to 255.
 
This whole limited vs full discussion seems to be getting a bit out of whack.

I agree with Ziran and a few other posters, but I guess the terminology used in this technology could be causing confusion to what some people get to expect.

Might be best to just leave it at whatever looks best to you, as otherwise even after I see it properly explained a few times, it seems like it is going to be a never-ending discussion.

From my previous experience around this topic, I think the only advice here I would give is to try and make sure you match the output (video card setting) to input (TV setting), basically any of these combos should be fine.

- Card:YBCBr, TV (grayed out) - I will not go into details what the TV selects here
- Card Limited, TV Low
- Card Full, TV Normal

If you find that any of these combinations looks much different than the others (I don't and don't see why), just select what you think looks best to you.

Heck, if you find the mismatch combos look better to you, e.g.
- Card Full / TV Low
- Card Limited / TV Normal
by all means, you should be using what looks best to you anyway

No point in trying to spec new tech documents here :)
 
deasnutz said:
Guess I'm waiting to buy my next TV. A new unlocked S6 would go for around $500 on eBay.
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Wow - that would be a very nice deal. Gotta resist tech urge to upgrade 40" 6700's...

It's a disease I tell you, and [H]ardForum is my dealer!!!
 
vorpel said:
Wow - that would be a very nice deal. Gotta resist tech urge to upgrade 40" 6700's...

It's a disease I tell you, and [H]ardForum is my dealer!!!
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Technically [H]ardForum is not the dealer but your friend telling you to go ahead and try it cause it feels amazing :D
 
seanclayton said:
http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/all-products

Reviews:
JU6500 FLAT
JU6700 CURVED
JU7100 FLAT
JU7500 CURVED
JS7000. Quantum dot. Unreleased yet. http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN60JS7000FXZA
JS8500 FLAT (North American version) Quantum Dot. Upto 92% DCI P3 gamut. Supports HDR.
JS8500 CURVED (European version) Quantum Dot. Upto 92% DCI P3 gamut. Supports HDR.
JS9000 CURVED Quantum Dot. Upto 92% DCI P3 gamut (http://www.noteloop.com/kit/display/color-space/dci-p3/). Supports HDR.

Confirmed:
4k 60hz 4:4:4 = yes-all models in PC mode with UHD color enabled. 20~22ms input lag in game mode = yes-all models except U.S version JS8500 (37ms). >37ms input lag in PC mode.

All models are edge lit VA panels. Only JU7500 and JS7000 is direct-lit, and JS9500 is full-array local dimming.
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I'm shopping for a good 4K TV for my computer and I've found 2 models I'm particularly interested in.

UE48JU6515XXE
UE48JU6575XXE

These are both curved which confuses me reading the first post in this thread saying JU6500 models are supposed to be flat?

Also wondering if anyone can confirm the two models mentioned above are 4:4:4 capable suitable to be connected to a computer?
 
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