New Samsung 4k for everyone.

Zarathustra[H];1041694066 said:
Yeah, I wound up packing the old one up because of this.

I had some extra time before hitting the road for the weekend, so I decided to open the box and check it out right away.


Immediately I noticed something was awry. The styrofoam was slightly damaged, the black box containing the "smart connect" box didn't have any shrink wrap on it, and the foam sleeve covering the TV was disheveled and caught on the smart connect box.

When I opened it up, the screw holes for the stand were obviously disturbed, so I knew it had been set up before.
Click to expand...

My new display from Crutchfield arrived yesterday, and the box was in a rough state. The damage wasn't so excessive that I could turn it away, but it was close. I haven't used the display yet, or even fully extracted it from the box, so I don't know how the PQ compares to my current unit from Amazon.

I did check the serial numbers on both units and the Amazon display is newer (if one can assume a "larger" S/N is consistent with a newer panel). The Amazon box was also packaged more securely and arrived in much better shape. Since that panel has no obvious pixel defects and appears to be working quite well, I may stick with it. I'll probably still test the Crutchfield unit to evaluate its PQ, but I'm not very optimistic based on the data above.

I know this doesn't address all of your concerns, but I hope it provides some additional information.
 
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messier83 said:
I have a question regarding the input lag of the game mode discussed here. I assume that when you are speaking about the game mode, you mean the one that is located at the input port device type menu.

I’m not very sensitive to input lag and the game mode of JU7005 offered very acceptable latency at 3840 x 2160 resolution. BUT... when I set the resolution to 1080p as my display adapter can’t run games at 4k, a horrible input lag appears. I can literally move my mouse and watch the cursor to catch it up. When I select the PC mode, this doesn’t happen. I can run any resolution without extra lag.

Has anyone noticed this? I suppose there is no way to fix it? I have checked every processing options in picture menu and there wasn't anything that could possible cause it.
Click to expand...

Game/Game mode, not to be confused with Game/AMP, should provide better lag characteristics than PC mode. However, the latter is the only mode to provide full 4:4:4 chroma, if this matters to you, and is still quite responsive and suitable for the majority of PC applications - save perhaps so-called "twitch" shooters.

As an aside, I found the lag/responsiveness to be awful in Game/AMP.
 
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Honeydew said:
My new display from Crutchfield arrived yesterday, and the box was in a rough state. The damage wasn't so excessive that I could turn it away, but it was close. I haven't used the display yet, or even fully extracted it from the box, so I don't know how the PQ compares to my current unit from Amazon.

I did check the serial numbers on both units and the Amazon display is newer (if one can assume a "larger" S/N is consistent with a new panel. The Amazon box was also packaged more securely and arrived in much better shape. Since that panel has no obvious pixel defects and appears to be working quite well, I may stick with it. I'll probably still test the Crutchfield unit to evaluate its PQ, but I'm not very optimistic based on the data above.

I know this doesn't address all of your concerns, but I hope it provides some additional information.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Appreciate it.

I don't blame Critchfield for mine. It looks like it came like that from the Samsung factory in Mexico. Maybe it was returned and quarantined as defective, and then accidentally sent out again? From the outside of the box, I have no reason to believe Crutchfield had any idea there was an issue...
 
Honeydew said:
I would advise you to consider sticking with RGB. Those providing support for YCbCr444 are expressing a preference that shouldn't be confused with a consensus. I tried them both and preferred RGB. Season to your individual tastes, but don't feel compelled to do so because it has the aura of being the correct mode. Your display, your choice.
Click to expand...

RGB defaults to low each time it turns off and on. Has this been fixed?
 
messier83 said:
Greetings Cyph,

What I meant that why there is no noticeable lag when running game mode at 4k, but lots of lag when running it at 1080p? It feels quite unexpected.

Yes, my ES6800 really offers fantastic blacks. Back then I compared it with ES6575 and that one did fit easily into "grayish black" category you mentioned.

My testing methods were:

1. Simply set a black screen and compare both screens local dimming features off, similar back light brightness and dark room. There was a huge difference favoring ES6800. The back light of JU7005 was acceptable even, but simply it's more prominent.

2. Compare with a movie sample with dark scenes. With and without local dimming features. With JU7005 they looked more washed out, while ES6800 maintained punchy, near perfect blacks. And again, both screens were using similar brightness, HDMI level of 0-255 (all dark tones represented correctly).

I'm surprised you see the opposite with your screen. scratching my head...
Click to expand...

That's too subjective. Who knows what processing changes have occurred? The best way to test is to turn off processing and compare. Black light level may not match between the two models. I know for a fact that in order to achieve punchier colors and blacks, I turn HDMI to low, And contrast full blast. Blacks is indeed blacker, but everything else gets crushed.

See if your ES6800 is crushing blacks. Do you see the full gradients in dark scene? Is the ES6800 VA or IPS? Based on the "grayish" blacks in reviews, I can't imagine it being VA. Therefore, contrast ratio has to be lower. Easiest way to find out is hook up the PC and test it under PC mode where all processing are turned off. That's the only way to compare. Check for black levels. Use the hard forum background to compare the blacks. If the ES is IPS, then punchier colors make sense, but there's no way it has blacker blacks.

Also, you just mentioned that 1080P is laggier than 4k which Nightmare said was the opposite. So I have no Idea what's going on anymore.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041694280 said:
Thanks. Appreciate it.

I don't blame Critchfield for mine. It looks like it came like that from the Samsung factory in Mexico. Maybe it was returned and quarantined as defective, and then accidentally sent out again? From the outside of the box, I have no reason to believe Crutchfield had any idea there was an issue...
Click to expand...

Of course. Crutchfield has been awesome on the phone, and has a great reputation for customer support. From the feedback provided in this thread, however, it appears several units shipped from them have had issues and/or "older" serial numbers. The sample size is too small to make any meaningful conclusions, but it does worry me. I won't know until I compare the Crutchfield display to the Amazon one on Sunday - and even that won't be statistically significant.

I'm very sorry to hear about your bad fortune with these panels. It must be very frustrating.
 
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Cyph said:
RGB defaults to low each time it turns off and on. Has this been fixed?
Click to expand...
To Low HDMI Black Level? I may be interpreting your question incorrectly, but my display defaults to Auto for the HDMI Black Level when using RGB Output Color Format.

I run my display in the PC source mode, however, and this may affect our comparison.
 
Honeydew said:
To Low HDMI Black Level? I may be interpreting your question incorrectly, but my display defaults to Auto for the HDMI Black Level when using RGB Output Color Format.

I run my display in the PC source mode, however, and this may affect our comparison.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's what I meant. If you set it to Normal, it goes back to Auto which is Low. You lose full RGB. This is why we recommend YCBR. Low makes everything punchier and looks nicer but you lose full RGB. full RGB and YBCBR444 should look the same, if someone find RGB to look better chances are HDMI is set to Auto or Low.
 
For anyone interested in comparing PQ settings in PC mode, here are my current preferences:

Source Mode: PC
Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 20
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 50
Gamma: 2
HDMI UHD Color: On for HDMI 1
HDMI Black Level: Auto

All other settings are default. I'm not claiming these are the "best," but simply optimal for my mixture of desktop and gaming needs. I would welcome any suggestions or feedback.
 
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Cyph said:
Yes, that's what I meant. If you set it to Normal, it goes back to Auto which is Low. You lose full RGB. This is why we recommend YCBR. Low makes everything punchier and looks nicer but you lose full RGB. full RGB and YBCBR444 should look the same, if someone find RGB to look better chances are HDMI is set to Auto or Low.
Click to expand...

Interesting - thanks for the information! You definitely have more knowledge on this than I. Let me test it out now.

Update: Don't you lose 4:4:4 when out of RGB?
 
Honeydew said:
As an aside, I found the lag/responsiveness to be awful in Game/AMP.
Click to expand...

Just to clear this up, lag meaning you move the mouse and cursor/character or whatever and it moves with a noticeable delay? I can understand everyone's perceptions are different, but on my 7100 I have Game/AMP and use wireless mouse/keyboard yet still notice no difference in any major FPS or twitch game. I wonder if sitting 5-6ft away as I do makes up for this some how (or I'm blind)?
 
El-Dubya said:
Just to clear this up, lag meaning you move the mouse and cursor/character or whatever and it moves with a noticeable delay? I can understand everyone's perceptions are different, but on my 7100 I have Game/AMP and use wireless mouse/keyboard yet still notice no difference in any major FPS or twitch game. I wonder if sitting 5-6ft away as I do makes up for this some how (or I'm blind)?
Click to expand...

It just means you're not sensitive. Consider yourself lucky.
 
Cyph said:
That's too subjective. Who knows what processing changes have occurred? The best way to test is to turn off processing and compare. Black light level may not match between the two models. I know for a fact that in order to achieve punchier colors and blacks, I turn HDMI to low, And contrast full blast. Blacks is indeed blacker, but everything else gets crushed.

See if your ES6800 is crushing blacks. Do you see the full gradients in dark scene? Is the ES6800 VA or IPS? Based on the "grayish" blacks in reviews, I can't imagine it being VA. Therefore, contrast ratio has to be lower. Easiest way to find out is hook up the PC and test it under PC mode where all processing are turned off. That's the only way to compare. Check for black levels. Use the hard forum background to compare the blacks. If the ES is IPS, then punchier colors make sense, but there's no way it has blacker blacks.

Also, you just mentioned that 1080P is laggier than 4k which Nightmare said was the opposite. So I have no Idea what's going on anymore.
Click to expand...

Yes, both screens tested all processing off, in PC mode just to see the native black level, and the results were as I described. It is definitely not crushing blacks, I can distinguish every dark block in this page http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

ES6800 is definitely a VA panel I'm certain of that. I have seen IPS panels and I know the difference. Perhaps there have been both IPS and VA used within ES range?
 
El-Dubya said:
Just to clear this up, lag meaning you move the mouse and cursor/character or whatever and it moves with a noticeable delay? I can understand everyone's perceptions are different, but on my 7100 I have Game/AMP and use wireless mouse/keyboard yet still notice no difference in any major FPS or twitch game. I wonder if sitting 5-6ft away as I do makes up for this some how (or I'm blind)?
Click to expand...

That's a fair question, as there is some variability in meaning depending on the context - and I may be using them incorrectly too.

By lag I mean the perceived delay in the response of the desktop cursor/pointer after providing the corresponding mechanical input to the mouse. I tested this in several AMP modes, including Clear, and the cursor definitely felt "heavy" to me. In Game/Game mode, however, the responsiveness was amazing; that is, the cursor felt weightless. PC mode was also very responsive, but wasn't as "light" as Game/Game mode.
 
Cyph said:
Yes, that's what I meant. If you set it to Normal, it goes back to Auto which is Low. You lose full RGB. This is why we recommend YCBR. Low makes everything punchier and looks nicer but you lose full RGB. full RGB and YBCBR444 should look the same, if someone find RGB to look better chances are HDMI is set to Auto or Low.
Click to expand...

I'm probably missing a chunk of this conversation, but on the 7100, if you set it to normal, and turn it off and on again, it will not change whether in tv settings on in Nv control panel. This is with latest update (1218 I think). Of course if this is a completely different item, please ignore.
 
El-Dubya said:
I'm probably missing a chunk of this conversation, but on the 7100, if you set it to normal, and turn it off and on again, it will not change whether in tv settings on in Nv control panel. This is with latest update (1218 I think). Of course if this is a completely different item, please ignore.
Click to expand...

That means they fixed it. That's great. In that case, it's a a matter of preference now
 
Mako360 said:
Same, it's stopped defaulting to "Auto" for me and has been sticking in "Normal" for the past few days, fyi.
Click to expand...

What's the appeal of Normal? The image looks pretty bland to me if not in Auto or Low. I can understand it the goal is bring out the lowest pixel brightness values, but that could also be achieved with a higher brightness and/or the appropriate gamma tweaks. In this way, I don't like the brightness above 45 because some of the color depth is washed out for me. My solution is to keep the brightness at 45 and use gamma to brighten everything that isn't black or close to it.

I'm willing to try different options and curious to know if I'm just not configuring it properly.
 
I have to agree about Normal looking dull. I have mine set to Auto and think it looks much better. I looked at that numbered square test screen and couldn't see any difference in black levels between Normal and Auto. In fact, the only squares I could distinguish were the last four. All the others just looked completely black. Maybe someone knows some settings that are worth trying? I've been Googling for any ICC profiles applicable to these TVs. No success, yet.
 
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Tyler-Durden said:
I have to agree about Normal looking dull. I have mine set to Auto and think it looks much better. I looked at that numbered square test screen and couldn't see any difference in black levels between Normal and Auto. In fact, the only squares I could distinguish were the last four. All the others just looked completely black. Maybe someone knows some settings that are worth trying? I've been Googling for any ICC profiles applicable to these TVs. No success, yet.
Click to expand...

You will need to adjust the brightness higher to see those darkest squares. I typically need to achieve 55 or 60 to get recognize them all, but this also saturates the brightest pixels too (i.e., the whites are washed out) and ruins the deep blacks that make games look so good.

I've found it's better to keep brightness between 40 and 50, seasoned to taste, and adjust gamma to achieve a "brighter" image. Unlike the brightness setting, which shifts all pixel values higher, Gamma will not affect true black (i.e., 0) and only modestly adjusts everything that is close to black. This is an ad hoc way to achieve enhanced contrast, if you'll forgive the expression in this context, while preserving the depth of the blacks.

I use a gamma setting of 2 with brightness 45 in PC mode, but it's worth experimenting to see what you find optimal. A simple test is to load the Google News page and see if you can discern the grey title boxes; if it's all white, your brightness is probably too high. Ironically, to "pass" that LCD black test you must increase the brightness unacceptably high (IMHO) on these VA panels.
 
Wiz33 said:
Found another video running on a regular 980 with settings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzxsNU0_-QA
Click to expand...

Thanks. Wish I lived somewhere that had internet fast enough I could actually just stream this rather than wait forever for it to download. :/ I definitely have some settings that aren't correct somewhere, as the link someone posted showing the black boxes you can view to check your settings only shows the bottom row for me; I can't see any of the others. I'm also definitely at the bottom of the pile when it comes to knowledge about this stuff, too; I see people mentioning things like "HDMI Low" and "HDMI Normal" and I can't even figure out where these settings are. I don't see anything relating to it in NVIDIA's control panel, either. (I've tried both RGB and YCBR.) I am pretty sure at this point I need a Samsung 4k TV for Dummies book.

Edit: Well.. I don't know what happened, but I can see all those black boxes now. :/
 
Honeydew said:
You will need to adjust the brightness higher to see those darkest squares. I typically need to achieve 55 or 60 to get recognize them all, but this also saturates the brightest pixels too (i.e., the whites are washed out) and ruins the deep blacks that make games look so good.

I've found it's better to keep brightness between 40 and 50, seasoned to taste, and adjust gamma to achieve a "brighter" image. Unlike the brightness setting, which shifts all pixel values higher, Gamma will not affect true black (i.e., 0) and only modestly adjusts everything that is close to black. This is an ad hoc way to achieve enhanced contrast, if you'll forgive the expression in this context, while preserving the depth of the blacks.

I use a gamma setting of 2 with brightness 45 in PC mode, but it's worth experimenting to see what you find optimal. A simple test is to load the Google News page and see if you can discern the grey title boxes; if it's all white, your brightness is probably too high. Ironically, to "pass" that LCD black test you must increase the brightness unacceptably high (IMHO) on these VA panels.
Click to expand...
Good stuff and I fully agree on those insane brightness requirements for that test. I've got the brightness at 45 and gamma at 3. Looks pretty good. I'm much more interested in gorgeous looking games than a screen full of squares, anyway. :D
 
Tyler-Durden said:
Good stuff and I fully agree on those insane brightness requirements for that test. I've got the brightness at 45 and gamma at 3. Looks pretty good. I'm much more interested in gorgeous looking games than a screen full of squares, anyway. :D
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it! PQ is generally a subjective evaluation, and I definitely don't claim these settings will be ideal for everyone. It's a reasonable place to start, however, and I would welcome any modifications the community might find to be an improvement. For now, PC/Standard mode with brightness at 45 and gamma at or near 2 is the best I can achieve. ;)
 
Honeydew said:
What's the appeal of Normal? The image looks pretty bland to me if not in Auto or Low. I can understand it the goal is bring out the lowest pixel brightness values, but that could also be achieved with a higher brightness and/or the appropriate gamma tweaks. In this way, I don't like the brightness above 45 because some of the color depth is washed out for me. My solution is to keep the brightness at 45 and use gamma to brighten everything that isn't black or close to it.

I'm willing to try different options and curious to know if I'm just not configuring it properly.
Click to expand...

You can set the contrast in Nvidia controls to bring back the pop you miss in auto. All HDMI low does is remap 0 to 16 and move everything up. I boost my contrast until the blacks start to crush in the dark scenes. With HDMI low, you will only see about 8 on your monitor http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php.
 
Cyph said:
You can set the contrast in Nvidia controls to bring back the pop you miss in auto. All HDMI low does is remap 0 to 16 and move everything up. I boost my contrast until the blacks start to crush in the dark scenes. With HDMI low, you will only see about 8 on your monitor http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php.
Click to expand...

That's good information - thanks! Would you be willing to provide your specific numbers in both the Samsung menu and the NV Control Panel? It will give me a place to start iterating.
 
The problem with using Nvidia control panel to make changes is that it is limited to 8 bits per colour.
As you adjust, you reduce the available colour depth which means either darks or brights get saturated.

When you make the adjustments on a TV, the well designed ones do not reduce the range of bits, they adjust an analogue offset.
 
Nenu said:
The problem with using Nvidia control panel to make changes is that it is limited to 8 bits per colour.
As you adjust, you reduce the available colour depth which means either darks or brights get saturated.

When you make the adjustments on a TV, the well designed ones do not reduce the range of bits, they adjust an analogue offset.
Click to expand...

I adjust my contrast on the TV first then the Nvidia control panel second. However, I'm not sure what the issue is with 8 bit per color. The panel itself is only 8 bit anyway.
 
Cyph said:
I adjust my contrast on the TV first then the Nvidia control panel second. However, I'm not sure what the issue is with 8 bit per color. The panel itself is only 8 bit anyway.
Click to expand...

The electronics behind the panel are not all digital.
For example, when you adjust the brightness on the TV, it doesnt reduce or restore bit depth, it makes no difference.
All it does is change the range that 0 to 255 per colour represents.
 
The only reason to use software settings is when the TV doesn't allow something. For example, setting absolute black point high enough that the panel doesn't crush blacks. Or in the case of the 6500/6700, the white point low enough that the PWM brightness reduction isn't too bad.

Apparently rtings put up more detail on the backlight cycle for these TVs and the 7100 and likely 7500 kinda solves the PWM problem with odd "steps": http://www.rtings.com/images/reviews/ju7100/ju7100-backlight-large.jpg. This also explains the slight diff in motion blur/artifacts between these models (6500/6700 have less, more "blocky" blur). Unfortunately the 7500 costs like $400 more than the 6700 for what really should be a free (via firmware) fix and has less desirable glossy finish.

Right now the best option other than these for computer use seems to be the Wasabi Mango uhd420's going for 700-800. Displayport, DC backlight, but also supposedly glossy.
 
Honeydew said:
What's the appeal of Normal? The image looks pretty bland to me if not in Auto or Low. I can understand it the goal is bring out the lowest pixel brightness values, but that could also be achieved with a higher brightness and/or the appropriate gamma tweaks. In this way, I don't like the brightness above 45 because some of the color depth is washed out for me. My solution is to keep the brightness at 45 and use gamma to brighten everything that isn't black or close to it.

I'm willing to try different options and curious to know if I'm just not configuring it properly.
Click to expand...

Samsung supposedly has weird naming for LOW/NORM/AUTO settings that don't necessarily mean the same in rgb/lum-chroma.

There is a right setting for this, and it depends on what your graphics card is putting out. I have no idea what nvidia does but it should be smart enough to put out full/low for rgb and limited for lum-chroma since that's the usual case/convention. It used to be that samsung's "normal" mean full/low in rgb, and limited in lum-chroma. Maybe that's what auto means now, who knows.

In any case, there's a right setting to make both ends speak the same lang/range, but perhaps some people don't like crushed blacks in rgb/low and therefore prefer limited range output. The right way to solve that is either some TV setting black level setting (traditionally "brightness", but this means something different on lcd tv's), or failing that with the software correction panel (ie nvidia).
 
Honeydew said:
What's the appeal of Normal? The image looks pretty bland to me if not in Auto or Low. I can understand it the goal is bring out the lowest pixel brightness values, but that could also be achieved with a higher brightness and/or the appropriate gamma tweaks. In this way, I don't like the brightness above 45 because some of the color depth is washed out for me. My solution is to keep the brightness at 45 and use gamma to brighten everything that isn't black or close to it.

I'm willing to try different options and curious to know if I'm just not configuring it properly.
Click to expand...

Post #4070 is your friend.
 
Tyler-Durden said:
I have to agree about Normal looking dull. I have mine set to Auto and think it looks much better. I looked at that numbered square test screen and couldn't see any difference in black levels between Normal and Auto. In fact, the only squares I could distinguish were the last four. All the others just looked completely black. Maybe someone knows some settings that are worth trying? I've been Googling for any ICC profiles applicable to these TVs. No success, yet.
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter how it "looks". You're either crushing blacks (badly in your case) or you're not.

Use the link in post #4070 and adjust the set until you see all the squares. If you can't see ALL of the squares in both the black AND white tests, you're missing a tremendous amount of detail.

TLDR version: Stop f-ing around and set it permanently to "Normal".
 
Cyph said:
Why hasn't RTING update its review with this finding? You're sensitive to lag, and I believe that you felt it. However, I question the 1-2 frames difference.

What was the firmware that you experienced the lag on? I've noticed it too, the GUI, everything was sluggish. The latest firmwares have since fixed that issue. Whatever bug that caused it was squashed. If the 1217 has improved response on the JS9000, then what makes you think the 1217 firmware hasn't done the same to the 6 and 7 series?

I believe there were issues with the previous firmwares as I've noticed it too, but it's since been fixed. I don't think encouraging new buyers to not upgrade their firmware is sound advice. Spending 700-2000, then leave off quality improvement for fear of input lag, is like cutting your nose to spite your face.
Click to expand...

Probably because it'd be 100x more work for them to test every display with the method they used to confirm the added lag. Leo Bodnar only tests 1080p. 4K could be an entirely different story, as was the case with the updates. They had no idea until I pointed it out to them. Add 36ms to all these figures. Notice how 1080p is faster than 4K, at least with the firmware from a month and a half ago.

19164067676_a110aac045_o_d.jpg


I noticed the lag on my 7500 after firmware 1207. I haven't tested since 1215. Could it have gotten better? Maybe, but I doubt it. I don't know why the JS9000 had a faster game mode, but it did at the time I last tested firmwares. One thing is for sure though, the menu is still a hell of a lot slower than it was on the factory firmware. It's laggy as crap, especially when you first boot the TV. Drives me insane...

In other news, I picked up a LG 55EC9300 (1080p 55" curved OLD) and have been trying it out for those who care. Online the lag measure was listed at about 40-50ms... this seems off or something, because it is just as fast as the JS9000 in game mode.

55" is surprisingly still manageable at this sitting distance, but not at 1080p. It's an ugly mess, especially for browsing. I am debating on trying the 4K model, but that is $4,500. A tough pill to swallow...

Is it worth it? For gaming, probably not. How often do you play games where there are completely black areas? I don't think too often. I noticed OLED's black levels while playing Left 4 Dead 2, and a little during Evolve, but that's about it. Certain scenes, especially in movies, it can be jaw dropping how good it looks. Brightness on this thing is abysmal compared to the JS9000 due to an auto brightness limiter implemented to prolong panel life. Whenever too much bright content (such as white web pages) are on screen, it drastically gets darker. And it's hideous. If you see a store model OLED, which convinced me to buy this set in the first place, don't be deceived. The LG demo looped today was flowers blooming, and that was it - the background was entirely black. The flowers looked gorgeous and colorful as ever, but that's because the panel had nothing else to display. All the power and brightness was focused on the flower. If you have a bright scene, the power has to get distributed to all the pixels now, making it much less vivid...

Not too noticeable in games, but when I compared colors of the displays against each other (full white, red, green, blue) the JS9000 blew it away because it maintained its brightness. Still need to do more real-world usage, but this is what I've seen at max brightness so far. Pixel response is perfect, but it is still blurry due to how your eyes work and 60 Hz. Turning on 120 Hz feels laggier than the JS9000, so I don't consider that a viable option.
 
Agent00F said:
Samsung supposedly has weird naming for LOW/NORM/AUTO settings that don't necessarily mean the same in rgb/lum-chroma.

There is a right setting for this, and it depends on what your graphics card is putting out. I have no idea what nvidia does but it should be smart enough to put out full/low for rgb and limited for lum-chroma since that's the usual case/convention. It used to be that samsung's "normal" mean full/low in rgb, and limited in lum-chroma. Maybe that's what auto means now, who knows.

In any case, there's a right setting to make both ends speak the same lang/range, but perhaps some people don't like crushed blacks in rgb/low and therefore prefer limited range output. The right way to solve that is either some TV setting black level setting (traditionally "brightness", but this means something different on lcd tv's), or failing that with the software correction panel (ie nvidia).
Click to expand...

I find this whole line of conversation interesting, in that many of the observations differ from mine. To me having HDMI Black Level set to normal produces very washed out colors. Setting it to Auto/Low provides very deep blacks. With the settings below, I can see all 20 of the lagome black squares as well as a uniform color scaling on the lagome contrast test.

  • Backlight: 8
  • Contrast: 80
  • Brightness: 63
  • Sharpness: 50
  • Gamma:0
  • HDMI Black Level: Auto/Low

I suppose my viewing conditions could be contributing to some of this, but I wonder if there is something else going on (i.e. browser, image viewer, or hardware introducing variances)?
 
Hey guys!! I got the monitor and computer setup but when I go to Source, select PC it still only shows UHD color. I thought it was supposed to say SUHD....

AM I wrong, I plan to stay with the JS9000 55" but I cant figure out how to get the JS9500 65" or 55" JS9000 to be optimized for PC. The thing is HUGE, I can barely see the text, would appreciate any help.
 
dpoverlord said:
Hey guys!! I got the monitor and computer setup but when I go to Source, select PC it still only shows UHD color. I thought it was supposed to say SUHD....

AM I wrong, I plan to stay with the JS9000 55" but I cant figure out how to get the JS9500 65" or 55" JS9000 to be optimized for PC. The thing is HUGE, I can barely see the text, would appreciate any help.
Click to expand...

After setting the source mode to PC you must go into the Picture Options menu and turn HDMI UHD Color to On for the appropriate input (e.g., HDMI 1).
 
mkia said:
I find this whole line of conversation interesting, in that many of the observations differ from mine. To me having HDMI Black Level set to normal produces very washed out colors. Setting it to Auto/Low provides very deep blacks. With the settings below, I can see all 20 of the lagome black squares as well as a uniform color scaling on the lagome contrast test.

  • Backlight: 8
  • Contrast: 80
  • Brightness: 63
  • Sharpness: 50
  • Gamma:0
  • HDMI Black Level: Auto/Low

I suppose my viewing conditions could be contributing to some of this, but I wonder if there is something else going on (i.e. browser, image viewer, or hardware introducing variances)?
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Just tested your settings on my JS900. Thank you for sharing. My thoughts:

- backlight of 8 is ridiculously dark; the screen just isn't producing enough radiance for my taste.

- While I can indeed "pass" both tests now, the colors and PQ quality have lost their depth. What used to be an emotional experience is now depressed, languid, and debilitated.

Thanks again for providing specific guidance and sharing your settings. It's just not my cup of tea.
 
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