New Samsung 4k for everyone.

Don't know about the first question but for two and three: 2) the 7500 has slightly less lag in PC mode and game m ode.

3) The input lag in game mode is less than PC mode.

Thanks for the immediate response.

As I understand it, however, in Game mode it is impossible to go on TV in 4K 60hz 4: 4: 4 right?

What is the input lag in PC MODE?
 
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Ok guys... I could REALLY use a hand. This also will be of extra interest for those wanting tests on stock firmware!

I just picked up a 50" ju6500...

I have been following this thread since the start so SUPER excited. I even disabled any updates so I am STOCK firmware!!!

Interestingly the 50 inch has no connection box. I was not sure if only the curved have that or not. I thought they all did.

I am having a REALLY weird experience that may be relevant for all.

Firstly, I got things fired up and OMG, the image quality is GREAT! I am coming from a still working legendary westy 37w3! So my display was a bit old, but great. I was using a DVI to HDMI cable. However once I turned on UHD color on port one, the screen shut down. It is an older cable... I always thought DVI to HDMI was supposed to be superior. But I guess not. I then switched it over to another HDMI cable I had, now UHD works and I seem to be at 60hz stable.

Now here is the REALLY weird thing. It seems that I am getting 4:4:4 chroma with UHD and NON-UHD! I really thought that full chorma only worked with UHD on. I am REALLY sensitive to poor chroma. So I am not sure how it is possible I am missing it. I even took some pictures with my galaxy s4... and there may be the slightest, and I mean slightest difference between the two modes. But hardly noticeable.

Is there another setting besides UHD color mode that makes 4:4:4 chroma work?

Second question... I am going to start hunting through the thread for all features to turn off, settings to change etc... so I can test pc mode BEFORE updating and after update.

Yes I will try and play the best guinea pig I can for the form ; )

Please feel FREE to post if you have suggestions on what I should disable or enable. This is my first samsung monitor, so I may miss something! 7 or so years of LCD development sure has changed things!!!

Thanks... good to be part of the club : )
 
Scheduled For Early Delivery On:
Wednesday, 04/29/2015, By End of Day
Originally Scheduled For Delivery On:
Thursday, 04/30/2015, By End of Day

I'll be getting mine tomorrow. :D
 
Is anybody using this tv with a 27inch 1440p monitor? I would like to have the ju7100 as my main gaming screen at 4k and my 27inch 1440p screen to watch temps while gaming.

I've used a couple of different setups for side monitors with my 48" JU6700:

1. Dell u3011's in portrait on either side
2. Dell u2414h's (2 stacked in landscape on either side)

My wife's is currently running with Dell 2405/2407 in portrait on either side of her 40" JU6700.

I don't think there is a perfect side/companion monitor setup for the 40/48" 4K displays. I think my current of #2 above is as close as you can get to match resolution, PPI, pixel pitch and physcial size. The one thing I don't like about the Dell u2414h's is that they look positively dull next to the Samsung.

As long as you are good with not trying to span your display to the side monitors (here I'm referring to having app windows being partial on a side monitor and the Samsung), I think the biggest thing to look for is image quality and pixel pitch/PPI.

I hope this helps.
 
Well color me stupid... I did not properly rename the input to PC... Now that I did things are MUCH better time to game :D
 
Thanks for the immediate response.

As I understand it, however, in Game mode it is impossible to go on TV in 4K 60hz 4: 4: 4 right?

What is the input lag in PC MODE?

Np. In PC mode, it's 48ms for the 6500 and 44.3 for the 7500. Game mode for both is in the 20s. I heard that the recent update made game mode even better, but I'm not sure about PC.
 
Hi guys, sorry for my bad English.
Some questions:

1) How do you consider the panels of the Samsung series JU compared to IPS panels LG series ub850? Color fidelity and viewing angles?

2) 48JU6500 and 48JU7500 have the same input lag? How is it?

3) In the series JU6500 the input lag in Game mode it's the same in PC mode with 4: 4: 4 chroma?

Thanks

1. Colors is pretty equal to my IPad Air 2 IPS screen. With the adjusted contrast, I really like colors and blacks on the 7100. The viewing angle does fade compared to IPS,but I have no issue with it because of the superior contrast and blacks, no IPS glow, blooming, etc. more than makes up for it. VA has come a long way. 4:2:2 in game mode is almost imperceptible to 4:4:4. If you game majority of the time, I recommend leaving it in game mode (need 1207 and above).

Thanks for the immediate response.

As I understand it, however, in Game mode it is impossible to go on TV in 4K 60hz 4: 4: 4 right?

What is the input lag in PC MODE?

Yes, but game mode is pretty close so full 4:4:4 is not necessary. Lag changes depending on firmware.

Well color me stupid... I did not properly rename the input to PC... Now that I did things are MUCH better time to game :D

Supposedly DVI/PC is even lower lag than PC.
 
So does anyone have optimal settings for PC or game mode?

Well what's optimimal is different for everyone. Some people turn their backlight down and increase brightness and others do it the reverse. In game mode sharpness needs to be set to zero to look similar to the way it does in PC mode. That's about all I can tell you.
 
This is odd. I noticed an update notification on the monitor before I left for work today morning but Samsung's website still shows 1209 as the latest update?
 
This is odd. I noticed an update notification on the monitor before I left for work today morning but Samsung's website still shows 1209 as the latest update?

I think Samsung reads this forum and this release has fixed the input lag issue. ;)

The website is not always in sync. It's usually behind the actual release. Hopefully someone can confirm and test what they fixed, added, or introduced.
 
This is odd. I noticed an update notification on the monitor before I left for work today morning but Samsung's website still shows 1209 as the latest update?

I got an update notification on my HU7250 as well but didn't do the update. I haven't checked the JU6700 today.
 
I contacted Rtings about the increased lag from firmware: here's what he had to say.

We will post an update soon.



We updated our JU7100 to 1209. Game Mode had an input lag of 120ms on it (1080p). So that update broke something.



But here is the good news. This morning our TV updated again. 1210. This time, Game mode is at 21 ms, which is really great.



We will update our reviews in a few days just to make sure it is consistent.



Thanks for pointing this out!



Cedric Demers
Rtings.com

120ms seems high for game mode on that update. I think he left some processing feature enabled. But he will be testing 4K lag as well.

I'll be updating to 1210 now and see what differences there are.

EDIT: Initial impression... make sure you wait until it says update completed if you do it manually at the top of the TV. At first it felt like they fixed the lag... but then it got progressively worse and right back to how it felt before. I've noticed this since the previous update but never mentioned it. I feel like the TV lag begins to creep up two or three minutes after you turn the sucker on. I have no idea why, but that's what I see.
 
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I turned off the Auto Update also. Have to wait until the all clear signal from the community.
I know 1207 rendered my remote unusable. Had to update to 1209 to get it back working.
 
I turned off the Auto Update also. Have to wait until the all clear signal from the community.
I know 1207 rendered my remote unusable. Had to update to 1209 to get it back working.

When people started talking about lag problems I disabled automatic updating on both my Samsungs. I wait for other people to take the plunge before I start updating firmware.
 
So.... Does anyone here mind sharing all the settings the have turned off or on. I almost re-read the entire thread! :eek: It was quite a task. I should have written it all down along the way :D

I was just wondering the exact things people turn on in both game and PC mode. I think I found a really good color combo with backlight at full so I guess it would minimize PWM. Though it has not bothered me at all.

My out of the box firmware is 1201.

By the way... does someone mind sharing where you disable auto-updates? Thanks! :cool:
 
So.... Does anyone here mind sharing all the settings the have turned off or on. I almost re-read the entire thread! :eek: It was quite a task. I should have written it all down along the way :D

I was just wondering the exact things people turn on in both game and PC mode. I think I found a really good color combo with backlight at full so I guess it would minimize PWM. Though it has not bothered me at all.

My out of the box firmware is 1201.

By the way... does someone mind sharing where you disable auto-updates? Thanks! :cool:

What TV size and model did you get? Weird that you have 1201 out of the box...

Disable updates: Support > Software Update > Auto Update - OFF (something like that)

If you enable anything in game mode (such as dynamic contrast, etc) it will likely add processing time causing more lag. Up to you though. I turn everything off. If you have a 7000 series TV, I recommend you try disabling game and PC mode and run in standard TV mode and try out the Auto Motion Plus feature by itself. It turns your games into 4K 120 Hz!

As far as calibration settings, I run mine at 20 backlight, 45 brightness, 0 sharpness for game mode and 50 for PC modes (this is removes any sharpening effect which WILL degrade quality on a PC), contrast 100. You CAN mess with "Color" in picture options in game mode, or anything outside of PC mode, and this will saturate your colors a bit more. If you bump it to about 55, the display will be as good as an IPS with much better contrast. 60-65, it gives a good look in my opinion. But I don't do this in the TV anymore, but instead in NVIDIA Control Panel so that it works in all modes.

Make sure HDMI black level is set to NORMAL. This ensures full RGB 0-255, whereas low is 16-235. Low looks better at first, but it crushes blacks and oversaturates. This is where messing with NVCP comes in handy. I set vibrancy to 65%, and contrast to 60%. It helps colors pop and removes the gray haze that seemed apparent after switching from HDMI LOW to NORMAL (we were all setting it wrong earlier in the thread).

Anything else feel free to ask. I've learned a helluva lot about the TV over the past week from having it.
 
When people started talking about lag problems I disabled automatic updating on both my Samsungs. I wait for other people to take the plunge before I start updating firmware.

I think 1210 improved it from 1207-1209, but I'm not positive. I need to do frame capture tests again, and that likely won't happen until this weekend because I'm moving back home from college tomorrow since the year is ending.
 
The problem with setting HDMI Black level to Normal is, on PC mode, it resets itself back to AUTO every time the PC is restarted, sleeped, whatever. Not an option IMO.
 
^^ Then this has been fixed in recent firmware. If so that's great news!

It was documented early-on in the thread and verified multiple times.
 
^^ Then this has been fixed in recent firmware. If so that's great news!

It was documented early-on in the thread and verified multiple times.

Mine updated to 1206 when I first plugged it in. I never saw that issue.
 
Updated to firmware 1210..

Tested with Leo Bodnar, results below:

Game Mode UHD on : 20.7ms
PC Mode UHD on : 33.9ms!!!

Game mode still 4:2:2, pc mode 4:4:4.

Will test tonite to see if input lag in 4k went down.

Also HDMI black level in pc mode works correctly now! Send it full rgb from gpu and set hdmi black level to normal, no longer washed out and no crushed blacks!
 
I think 1210 improved it from 1207-1209, but I'm not positive. I need to do frame capture tests again, and that likely won't happen until this weekend because I'm moving back home from college tomorrow since the year is ending.

Let us know what you find, check pc and game mode in 4k, I will do some ganeplay testing tonite to see if there is a difference from 1209 firmware.
 
Updated to firmware 1210..

Tested with Leo Bodnar, results below:

Game Mode UHD on : 20.7ms
PC Mode UHD on : 33.9ms!!!

Game mode still 4:2:2, pc mode 4:4:4.

Will test tonite to see if input lag in 4k went down.

Also HDMI black level in pc mode works correctly now! Send it full rgb from gpu and set hdmi black level to normal, no longer washed out and no crushed blacks!

Nice. :)
 
Updated to firmware 1210..

Tested with Leo Bodnar, results below:

Game Mode UHD on : 20.7ms
PC Mode UHD on : 33.9ms!!!

Game mode still 4:2:2, pc mode 4:4:4.

Will test tonite to see if input lag in 4k went down.

Also HDMI black level in pc mode works correctly now! Send it full rgb from gpu and set hdmi black level to normal, no longer washed out and no crushed blacks!

Great!
 
What TV size and model did you get? Weird that you have 1201 out of the box...

Disable updates: Support > Software Update > Auto Update - OFF (something like that)

If you enable anything in game mode (such as dynamic contrast, etc) it will likely add processing time causing more lag. Up to you though. I turn everything off. If you have a 7000 series TV, I recommend you try disabling game and PC mode and run in standard TV mode and try out the Auto Motion Plus feature by itself. It turns your games into 4K 120 Hz!

As far as calibration settings, I run mine at 20 backlight, 45 brightness, 0 sharpness for game mode and 50 for PC modes (this is removes any sharpening effect which WILL degrade quality on a PC), contrast 100. You CAN mess with "Color" in picture options in game mode, or anything outside of PC mode, and this will saturate your colors a bit more. If you bump it to about 55, the display will be as good as an IPS with much better contrast. 60-65, it gives a good look in my opinion. But I don't do this in the TV anymore, but instead in NVIDIA Control Panel so that it works in all modes.

Make sure HDMI black level is set to NORMAL. This ensures full RGB 0-255, whereas low is 16-235. Low looks better at first, but it crushes blacks and oversaturates. This is where messing with NVCP comes in handy. I set vibrancy to 65%, and contrast to 60%. It helps colors pop and removes the gray haze that seemed apparent after switching from HDMI LOW to NORMAL (we were all setting it wrong earlier in the thread).

Anything else feel free to ask. I've learned a helluva lot about the TV over the past week from having it.

Thanks for the settings. I have pretty similar settings, only WAY lower contrast! Are you really at 100? When I did that everything looked "cartoony" like it does on my samsung galaxy phones (amoled). I did try messing with the NVCP and it seems to help. I was REALLY confused about black level since low looked SO much better at first. I saw your images.

I am on a un50ju6500. Just ordered it so maybe that's why...

Since I am on 1201 I am very tempted to update to newest firmware. I just went online for the first time.

Does anyone know if these samsung models have a built in mic? I want to make sure I turn off that feature that records what you say :eek: I think it was samsung that had that.

Out of curiosity since you know the panel well... Does black level reset each time? Mine constantly revers to auto. Do you all run picture mode on standard? Have you tried "entertain" to see what it does? When I enable it everything gets brighter... and the blacks seem a little more deep. I assume auto on the white balance and gamma. I assume sport mode and BDwise are both turned off as well?

Thanks these samsungs have SOOO many options compared to my westy...
 
Sweet as I was posting that the numbers came in... I seriously wonder if samsung reads this thread, since it is the first thing that comes up when you look up their models ; )
 
Got my tv, won't be able to play with it until later tonight. Sounds like the new 1210 firmware is good. Lag on PC mode has gone down then a bit huh?
 
Updated to firmware 1210..

Tested with Leo Bodnar, results below:

Game Mode UHD on : 20.7ms
PC Mode UHD on : 33.9ms!!!

Game mode still 4:2:2, pc mode 4:4:4.

Will test tonite to see if input lag in 4k went down.

Also HDMI black level in pc mode works correctly now! Send it full rgb from gpu and set hdmi black level to normal, no longer washed out and no crushed blacks!

The HDMI black level still gets reset to auto when you turn off the computer and back on (or if you switch to GAME source then back to PC source). This is super annoying (1210 firmware)

The actual full 0-255 display part appears to work correctly. I was able to set the display to 20 back light, 100 contrast, 45 brightness and neither the whites nor the blacks are crushed so it appears that the full spectrum is working correctly. I like the way it looks it does not have that "radioactive" glow for large white areas and is easier on the eyes.

I also switched to warm1 setting as the normal is too blue.
 
Ziran!! Is there any way you can run your same PWM tests on the latest firmware? Just for kicks.

I have nowhere near the amount on PWM issues I once had with this thing and I'm trying to figure out why/how.
 
The HDMI black level still gets reset to auto when you turn off the computer and back on (or if you switch to GAME source then back to PC source). This is super annoying (1210 firmware)

The actual full 0-255 display part appears to work correctly. I was able to set the display to 20 back light, 100 contrast, 45 brightness and neither the whites nor the blacks are crushed so it appears that the full spectrum is working correctly. I like the way it looks it does not have that "radioactive" glow for large white areas and is easier on the eyes.

I also switched to warm1 setting as the normal is too blue.

Try YCBR444. This will remove the HDMI level setting and force everything to stay at full range.
 
Try YCBR444. This will remove the HDMI level setting and force everything to stay at full range.

Hmm I am a bit weary of setting YCBCR444 mode:

https://pcmonitors.info/articles/correcting-hdmi-colour-on-nvidia-and-amd-gpus/

It is very easy to get rid of that ‘washed out’ look and the problematic gamma by setting the graphics card to use the YCbCr444 colour format. Simply open the Nvidia Control Panel and navigate to ‘Display’ – ‘Adjust desktop color settings’. Select ‘YCbCr444’ from the ‘Digital color format’ dropdown as shown below. The ‘Black Level’ option on the monitor, if there is one, should be greyed out after selecting this colour signal type.

This will switch the colour signal the graphics card sends out from RGB (‘Limited Range RGB 16-235’ by default) to an alternative which provides a very similar image to ‘Full Range RGB 0-255’ on most monitors. The measured gamma, white point and contrast are very similar indeed and the image looks very much comparable to a ‘Full Range RGB’ signal on most monitors. Some colour values are changed very slightly, with certain shades displayed more accurately and some less accurately. The images below compare the colour accuracy of the AOC i2473Pwy across a broad range of shades using both ‘
 
Ok I bit the bullet and set the YCbCr444 mode in NVIDIA control panel. The image looks identical to HDMI black level normal and RGB 0-255. The HDMI black setting is now grayed out in the monitor settings. So this is a good solution to this problem. No more having to fix HDMI black level every time I turn on computer.

back light 20
brightness 45
contrast 100
sharpness 50

Looks good.
 
Ziran!! Is there any way you can run your same PWM tests on the latest firmware? Just for kicks.

I have nowhere near the amount on PWM issues I once had with this thing and I'm trying to figure out why/how.

I have re-tested the PWM with the 1210 firmware and it looks identical to the original shipping firmware when it comes to PWM. This is with the following settings:

pc mode: 4-4-4
back-light: 20
contrast: 100
brightness: 45
sharpness: 50
color: warm1
HDMI black level: grayed out (not settable)

nvidia control panel set to YCbCr444 mode

The display still showing 120Hz PWM (1/9 sec exposure time on photo)

http://i.imgur.com/dd0QQWM.jpg
 
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