After renaming HDMI 1 to "PC" and setting the device type to PC as well, I can no longer enable game mode.
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New Samsung 4k for everyone.
- Thread starter seanclayton
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After renaming HDMI 1 to "PC" and setting the device type to PC as well, I can no longer enable game mode.
It's the option "Edit Device Type" right above "Edit Name" in the source dropdown menu. I've only tested guildwars2 but I dont think game mode is on because im still in 4:4:4, and last night in game mode it was clearly in 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 (could not read red item text).
However, perceptually, it feels exactly the same as it did last night, not quite as good as my 3007 (gotta love a nearly 10 year old screen keeping up this well), but very passable. I think im just going to adjust.
If there are any tests/images you guys would like to see of the flat 40in, let me know.
Can someone post a couple photos of the rear of their JU6700 40"? Particularly showing how the power and input connector cables are situated?
I am leaning towards a wall mount, and found this one:
http://www.amazon.com/FREE-Swivel-W...d=1428254533&sr=1-18&keywords=wall+mount+vesa
The reviews are good, but one concern is the mounting plate blocking the power or inputs.
I am leaning towards a wall mount, and found this one:
http://www.amazon.com/FREE-Swivel-W...d=1428254533&sr=1-18&keywords=wall+mount+vesa
The reviews are good, but one concern is the mounting plate blocking the power or inputs.
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Darthmullet
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This is the one I bought for the purposes, although I do not believe this monitor weighs 25 lb - manufacturer says 17.7 without stand.
http://www.overstock.com/Electronic...m-for-Flat-Panel-Display/8564275/product.html
Overstock is the retailer. Ergotron website with better details
I haven't received my [40"] monitor yet, but I will let you know if it all works out. It matches the specs well, if anything the display is on the light side of the arm's capacity - its 14-30 lb.
Just tested. No resolution change in leaving the samsung turned on and going in and out of sleep and shutdown restart of the PC. Im on a z68 chipset with all power saving options enabled.
Smallest size is 55", too large for desktop use.
What exactly is involved in switching between Game Mode and PC Mode, once everything is set up?
Is it a ton of menu navigation or is it pretty quick? I'm not sure if I can hang with 40ms+ input lag after being used to 21ms-ish for years. I'd really rather not have to screw around in a bunch of menus every time I go back and forth between gaming and work/web browsing...
Is it a ton of menu navigation or is it pretty quick? I'm not sure if I can hang with 40ms+ input lag after being used to 21ms-ish for years. I'd really rather not have to screw around in a bunch of menus every time I go back and forth between gaming and work/web browsing...
Darthmullet
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This really depends on how tall you are, how high your desk chair is, and how high your desk itself is. Very subjective. Putting a 32" monitor totally on the desk level for me would be extremely uncomfortable for example. I currently use a 27" and its bottom is 7" off my desk, the top of the monitor is 22" off the desk. If anything, its too low.
It was stated on Crutchfield's website through Friday that the item was not in stock and they couldn't estimate ship times. They just got in stock when I checked yesterday and I ordered mine. The out-of-stock indicator was easy to miss, I only noticed it when I tried to checkout on Friday and saw their estimated ship time.
So it is fine in game mode (although you lose 4:4:4) So in order to get 4:4:4 for desktop use you need to switch to PC mode. How does that feel? Also what do you think the main advantages of the Samsung are compared to the Phillips?
I think in some years it will become the norm with OLEDs than can bend/curve more. With 50-60"+, things at the corners appear kind of far away.
Nobu
[H]F Junkie
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I doubt you'd be saying that if your phone had 14ppi (That'd be 70 pixels in 5 inches, almost dot-matrix printer level resolution)...that said, anything above about 200 ppi is excessive, to say the least, unless you're sitting inches away from your display..
I honestly don't know that much about the Phillips so I can't really answer that. As for PC mode I haven't tried that specifically. I am not even sure where you make that change at. If your talking about renaming the input to "PC" I did that and it still seems slightly slower than when its set to game mode. So the 21ms/44ms change between game mode and other modes seems accurate.
If that phone were viewed from enough distance it's fine. Same for displays. The problem with 70pixels total is inadequate resolution, not PPI.
The reason PPI gets a lot of play is that the fundamental cost factor in displays is size. So how else to market something that costs less to make as "better"?
For all the flack console gamers get from the PC master race at least they're not hunched over squinting at the screen like peons.
There seems to be a discrepancy in the JU6700 sets. I have an 'Edit Device Type' option where I can select PC/Game/etc (in addition to Edit Name). Some JU6700 sets do not present the Edit Device Type option.
Those who do not have the option, did you get one of the sets that had the Wi-Fi problem? I was told that the series was delayed due to the Wi-Fi issue being discovered late. Mine did not have the Wi-Fi issue out of the box. Very odd.
Those who do not have the option, did you get one of the sets that had the Wi-Fi problem? I was told that the series was delayed due to the Wi-Fi issue being discovered late. Mine did not have the Wi-Fi issue out of the box. Very odd.
What WiFi issue?
I definitely do not have an "edit device" option when I select the source. I can edit the name and do one or two other things but not that option. I think my 65" is the same way.
I have been reading that some Samsung TVs have had problems connecting to the internet lately, maybe that?
Definitely to each their own. Now with 3 days of using the 48", I love it. I did lower my monitor shelf about 2 inches and my eye line is now approx 1in from the center of the display (with the mfg stand).
Part of the "big" feel is the imersion factor. The 48" is feeling so good because it is overwhelming. That is what I want. My triple 30" displays were nice, but the center one by itself did not give that feeling.
Personally I thought the 40" would be what I would want, but since my local store did not have stock of them and they did of teh 48", I decided to give it a try. I won't be going back!
Do what you want for you - those of us that like the 48" are certainly doing what we want for ourselves.
I know it has been answered by a few others, but when powering on in HDMI1 (PC) input, the screen looks normal, but you do get some SmartTV features that pop up in the bottom left corner that go away after a few seconds.
Yep - several people on Amazon have confirmed that it the 15' cable does do 4k 60Hz 4:4:4.
I wish this was a more common thing and that manufacturers would list this specific compatibility. You cannot go on that it is HDMI 2.0 compliant, nor that a cable is 18.2Gps bandwidth, or that it states "4K" compatible.
When I sel
When I press the Input key on the remote and then scroll over to the PC HDMI1/DVI input, I then select the down arrow and I get the following options:
Edit Device Type
Edit Name
Information
Remove Source Thumbnail
Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC)
I hope that helps.
No issues with wifi for my set (48" JU6700)
Darthmullet
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PPI and Resolution are inexorably tied together. Saying a 70 pixel 5" phone has inadequate resolution is correct. But, saying it is 14 PPI is saying exactly the same thing, its just short hand. It gives you information on the size of the pixels. It isn't just marketing.
How good a resolution looks is entirely dependent on the size of the monitor. If I don't know what resolution I really want, but I know I want to sit 18 inches from my monitor, I know that a certain PPI will give the right definition for me. Get what I mean? The size of pixels is dependent both on resolution and screen size, PPI combines the two to give relevant information on pixel density and that is really necessary information, not just marketing mumbo jumbo. A 4k television and a 720p phone could have the same PPI and so for all intents and purposes be the same screen. but the 4k is flashy and new. At the same time a phone needs higher PPI because it is used much closer than a television. Resolution isn't specific enough, and if you're judging based on resolution and size then you're judging on PPI even if you don't call it that.
Have you been doing productivity stuff in game mode? I read text looks terrible that way since you loose the 4:4:4 color
Does that mean people without that option can not switch between PC and GAME mode? Man why is choosing a new display so hard
I have. actually and yeah, the text is awful in game mode. The latency isn't too horrible for general desktop use outside of game mode and the trade off of clearer text makes it worth while. The display isn't perfect, but generally I'm fairly happy with it thus far.
Lateralus
More [H]uman than Human
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Fortunately, it hasn't been an issue for me. I'm currently using a backlight setting of 5 (out of 20) and haven't noticed a thing.
SixFootDuo
Supreme [H]ardness
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Have my backlight set to 12 and I am not even sure what PWM is exactly. Basically, never ever had an issue.
I think it's a blown out of proportion issue.
I think it's a blown out of proportion issue.
meraki1990
Weaksauce
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Yup, I thought of going with one of these, but my 970 will suffer terribly..
So I decided against it.
That's what happens when people get stuck on specifications. A couple years ago no one knew anything about 4:4:4 Chroma subsampling and wouldn't have cared. Now its all the rage. Like microstutter and frame pacing before that.
I am not saying some of these things aren't important but I agree that it might be an overblown issue. I am not an expert on TV's or LCDs in general but as I understand it the PWM issue only comes up at high frequencies when the brightness is near the lower end of the spectrum for the given display. I don't turn the brightness down to those levels on any display I've got so that will be a non-issue for me. It hasn't been a problem so far.
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Is the positioning of the HDMI ports as bad as I think it is? Setting ports up sideways doesn't seem to make a lot of sense.
I was told by a sales person at Paul's TV that a WiFi bug was discovered on this set -- mainly that the WiFi would not connect at all when setting up the TV. When I was sold the TV, I was informed that I may need to use a wired connection to complete the setup, and to download firmware to fix the WiFi issue. I did not encounter any problems with WiFi. Does that mean there was an initial batch of TVs that are somehow different (firmware or otherwise) from the one I have? It's interesting since you don't have the 'Edit Device Type' option in your menu. Is it possible the 'Edit Device Type' doesn't show up because your HDMI is not 2.0?
I would prefer no WiFi on my TV anyway. I really just want a dumb screen.
Hi all,
I signed up on the forum a little earlier today just so I could thank you all for all of these really informative posts.
I decided to pull the trigger on a Sammy (Samesung lol) 65" 7500 as a PC gaming monitor. I know, you all think it's too big. But I plan on sitting 4-5 feet away from it and at that distance, it should be perfect for not only immersion, but at 4k I will (should?) not see any pixels.
I also bought a pair of GTX 970s to drive it (upgrading from a 670 finally). I hope that's adequate. From what I have seen, running even the most demanding games at ultra settings on 4k still render 30+ FPS with a pair of these cards in SLI. Not ideal, but I don't think I need AA anymore, and that seems to be generally what is killing FPS. I'd be perfectly happy with 45-50 FPS averages.
The TV is coming from Abt Electronics somewhere near Chicago. I haven't read too many bad things about them, so hopefully this is a good experience.
Anyway, thanks again for the info on these wonderful 4k sets. I was afraid (a couple of months ago) that we would never see 4:4:4 chroma at 60Hz on one of these due to a conspiracy to keep TVs from being good PC monitors, but my fears were unfounded!
I signed up on the forum a little earlier today just so I could thank you all for all of these really informative posts.
I decided to pull the trigger on a Sammy (Samesung lol) 65" 7500 as a PC gaming monitor. I know, you all think it's too big. But I plan on sitting 4-5 feet away from it and at that distance, it should be perfect for not only immersion, but at 4k I will (should?) not see any pixels.
I also bought a pair of GTX 970s to drive it (upgrading from a 670 finally). I hope that's adequate. From what I have seen, running even the most demanding games at ultra settings on 4k still render 30+ FPS with a pair of these cards in SLI. Not ideal, but I don't think I need AA anymore, and that seems to be generally what is killing FPS. I'd be perfectly happy with 45-50 FPS averages.
The TV is coming from Abt Electronics somewhere near Chicago. I haven't read too many bad things about them, so hopefully this is a good experience.
Anyway, thanks again for the info on these wonderful 4k sets. I was afraid (a couple of months ago) that we would never see 4:4:4 chroma at 60Hz on one of these due to a conspiracy to keep TVs from being good PC monitors, but my fears were unfounded!
My Titan X's arrive Tuesday, so we'll see if the HDMI 2.0 port has anything to do with that. My 65" version of the same TV doesn't have that option either. I haven't had it but a few weeks. That WiFi bug I didn't experience with the 65" and I haven't used it on the 48".
In my opinion the 65" is too big for use as a computer monitor outside of pure gaming. The PPI on it would look horrible I think at the distances typically used for monitors. I haven't as of yet connected a PC to it, but based on the PPI of the 48", I wouldn't have gone bigger.
Darthmullet
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At 5 ft you're looking at normal television sizes, so I don't think it'd be too big. You will have the can of worms that is windows-scaling though, until Windows 10 comes out of course.
I would do more research on the 970's if I were you. The scandal with their over-rated VRAM and all that. It generally didn't surface, except when the card was pushed to its utmost limits and needed all of its memory, which is essentially 4k. It may be worth paying a bit more for 980's - or waiting for the 390x.
I don't know the gritty details of the 970 memory issue, I just know it went under the radar because it only popped up when the first 75% of memory was used. I didn't dig deeper because I have 980's.