It does, but it sucks. Picture quality looks too crappy, and without gamemode it lags too much.So JS8500 does not have Game mode, i.e. high input lag?
The panel is so much better.
It does, but it sucks. Picture quality looks too crappy, and without gamemode it lags too much.
Let's just say Panasonic CX800 >>> JS8500. Picture quality does not suffer with or without game mode. The colors are more accurate, and the gamut is much higher than Samsung's quantum dot---covering only up to 92% DCI p3.
I have successfully setup my Pulse-Eight CEC adapter to turn on / off my Samsung UN40JU7500 either for sleep or system startup or shutdown under Windows 7. It may or may not work with other OS. LibCEC Trax(x64) runs as a Task Scheduled item at system start-up. All other media center items disabled.
Config from Nvidia 980 HDMI - 1ft HDMI to Pulse-Eight CEC - 1ft HDMI - Samsung Mini Box
Still able to run 4K 60 Hertz at 444
Now this large TV is working like a regular monitor.
https://www.pulse-eight.com/p/104/usb-hdmi-cec-adapterAs someone who has NO idea what this is (google will soon be my friend) Where did you get the adapter?
As someone who has NO idea what this is (google will soon be my friend) Where did you get the adapter?
I'm very interested to hear how your PWM mod goes.
In any case, 360Hz is better than nothing. I have some thermal imaging pictures of the driver board before and after the modification, and have noted the areas that have increased in temperature by about 20 degrees Fahrenheit - nothing that I think I need to worry about. I'm sure someone could spend countless hours getting more details, but this will have to work for me.
Basically, all the work is being done from the driver side of the tv. The original PWM pin was pulled from the connector and soldered to another wire going to the microcontroller. There is a pad that receives the same PWM signal near the top of the PCB, so it was used to inject the modified PWM signal back into the driver, since the original wire was removed from the connector. There is an empty pad on the top of the driver PCB that gets 13V from the same location as the connector/ribbon cable, so it was used as a power source, and brought down to 5V with a linear regulator to get to a safer Voltage for the launchpad PCB. There are 5V sources on the mainboard, but I wanted to keep all wiring simple and not potentially overload another circuit. It would be easier to wire up straight to the microcontroller, after programming is tested and done, but the launchpad is cheap and small enough, so putting the entire thing in the TV works for me. The temperatures across the power/driver board didn't do much switching to 360Hz.
For the JU6500, should automotionplus be turned off for games and shows? Also, is there a post with the optimal settings? Not sure what to change it to, but at least I got 4:4:4 working.
I tried out Mario Kart 8 and it looked terrible from 4 feet away, unlike games with a 2160p setting. At least it looked decent from 6 feet.
Wow SGSeeker - awesome post!! So? Was it worth it? Your eyes happier? Too early to tell? PWM sensitivity can vary depending how long you've been staring vs. a set of fresh eyes etc. let us know. I'd think 3x'ing the freq would be great.
That's amazing. Too bad that modification is way beyond most folks abilities. there's no technical reasons for the 120PWM, So I wonder why they chose 120.
Worth it? Not as worth it as 2KHz PWM, but I can use brightness level 5 (good setting for a dark room) without any noticeable flickering. I think level 8 gives the best whites in a dark room, and level 12 is good for sunlit rooms, or a few light bulbs. I think one PWM gets over ~240Hz, it starts to become much less noticeable or fatiguing to people. 1KHz is around the area where even the most sensitive claim they can no longer see any pwm, specifically looking for it. I think 360Hz is fine - the display in a dark room at low brightness no longer reminds me of a 60Hz CRT monitor. The picture appears more stable. A lower frequency is far nicer to the LED driver also.
I think if most people had a pre-programmed chip, they could do the mod easily. You just solder four wires to a chip socket (power, ground, pwm in, pwm out), pull a pin from one connector (tiny screwdriver) on the tv, solder 2 wires to the TV's power supply PCB, one wire to the ping pulled from the connector, and add a regulator + capacitor in between power and socket to give the MSP430G2553 3.3V. None of it even needs a PCB.
The launchpad was just annoying to deal with as changing a tiny surface-mount resistor to a different (physically larger) resistor, installed to the same pads, was quite difficult. It wasn't THAT bad, but the hardest part of the mod for sure. Everything else just popped into place without a second try. The resistor had to be resoldered a couple times. This resistor isn't even needed if not using the launchpad PCB.
The back of the tv opens up by simply removing the stand, then over a dozen other screws and the plastic cover lifts right off. The power supply board also comes out for soldering simply by disconnecting two squeeze-and-pull connectors and removing 5 screws.
If a replacement cable could be sourced, it would be modified to have the PWM wire cut, along with a 13V and ground wire to have a wire tapped into each. Everything that is needed is contained in the ribbon cable.
If someone was in Oregon or Washington and wanted to give this a mod a try on their display (Portland area), I'm sure we could find a more user-friendly way of doing the mod. It would likely involve a pre-programmed chip, a socket, a capacitor, a 3.3V regulator, a replacement ribbon cable (plug and play), and a few pieces of extra wiring. Just tape or glue in place, and you have a display that can be returned to factory form by simply swapping the original cable back in. The entire plug and play harness would probably take 30 minutes to build one-offs, and 10 minutes to build if making a batch. Parts are under $10, plus ribbon cable.
The current code isn't great at auto-backlight dimming, even when sped up to a quicker sample rate, so that feature would need to be disabled.
That's awesome. I hope you find someone to meet up with, I'd definitely be interested in a kit.