New Samsung 4k for everyone.

shadow85

Limp Gawd
Joined
Sep 27, 2009
Messages
489
And why did you keep the Philips and not the LG 31MU97, if LG was such a good monitor ?

Well like I said before, I manually tried to calibrate the Philips and ended up having great colour and clarity almost as good as the LG 31MU97 I had, and the 40" was too immersive so I kept the Philips.
 

Razorub

n00b
Joined
Apr 29, 2015
Messages
7
Sounds like you're running at either 4:2:0 or 30hz.

Wouldn't windows have the 60hz option greyed out if it was only running at 30hz? Also with the 4:4:4 color option? I am able to select 60hz and 4:4:4 color in the nvidia control panel. The TVs also both display 3840x2160 60P UHD on the top menu when turned on.

Also, I plan to play Witcher3 this evening on a single Titan X. I'll post how it runs.
 

Cyph

Gawd
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
812
Thanks for the clarification. :)

Agree with everything here. To be clear, you don't have to relabel the input as was previously thought...you just have to switch the input device type from PC to Game and vice-versa. Right?

That's correct. Change label means to switch, not actually renaming it.

Wouldn't windows have the 60hz option greyed out if it was only running at 30hz? Also with the 4:4:4 color option? I am able to select 60hz and 4:4:4 color in the nvidia control panel. The TVs also both display 3840x2160 60P UHD on the top menu when turned on.

Also, I plan to play Witcher3 this evening on a single Titan X. I'll post how it runs.

No, Nvidia will default to 4:2:0 if it detects it cannot supply full bandwidth. Try the 444 test.
 

darkangelamd

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 26, 2004
Messages
280
After it turned out that the Sharp TV wouldn't do 4:4:4 and had horrible input lag I bought the 50ju6500. So far so good, the input lag is good for me, and it works perfectly. I'm glad I got the 50" it seems about right.
 

zero101

n00b
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
46
Well like I said before, I manually tried to calibrate the Philips and ended up having great colour and clarity almost as good as the LG 31MU97 I had, and the 40" was too immersive so I kept the Philips.

What do you think about this Samsung, shadow85 ?
http://uk.kagoo.com/TVs-Monitors-Projectors/TVs/2835396/Samsung-UE40JU6450.html
I will use it only as pc monitor
Are the colors / better / worse / than the Philips 40" monitor ? I don't mind the input lag
http://postimg.org/image/f9l560anr/
 

Seyumi

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Messages
367
Wow guys. 2 for 2 on a bad 40" JU7500. My first screen was DOA and had a white stuck pixel in the center of the screen, now my new unit has hair & dust stuck underneath the panel in multiple places (or it's a clump of dead pixels). Very noticeable on white backgrounds. I can't believe my horrible luck on not only this monitor but every monitor I've bought in the past. Over the past decade, I've only bought "high end" $1000+ IPS monitors and I'd say 90% of them always had dead pixels, stuck pixels, and dust behind the screen. I don't understand this since I've literally used 1000+ shitty school and work $50 computer monitors and I've NEVER seen ONE of them have any of those issues I mentioned. I'm just flabbergasted that the cheapest displays ever never had these problems but the most expensive computer monitors in the world always seem to do...Not sure if I should take a 3rd attempt at this monitor or just stick with my 40" Philips that has no (screen) flaws...Here's my list just to prove a point:

$1,200 Samsung 305T 30" IPS 2560x1600 - 4 for 4 on stuck pixels
$1,000 Apple Cimema Display 27" IPS 2560x1440 - 3 for 4 on stuck pixels and/or dust behind the glass
$1,000 Philips BDM4065UC 40" VA 3840x2160 - 0 for 1 on dust behind the glass, or dead/stuck pixels
$1,400 Samsung JU7500 40" VA 3840x2160 - 2 for 2 on stuck pixels and/or dust behind the glass
$50 Shitty Dell 19" TN 1024x768 work or school monitor 0 for 1000+ on dust behind the glass, or dead/stuck pixels

I guess I can at least use this monitor for a bit to see how I feel about the PWM & latency. I guess this will help me determine if I'll even try getting another one again or not.
 
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Seyumi

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Messages
367
Wow some fast developments. I'm apparently so sensitive to PWM this monitor was practically unusable for me. I was literally breaking out into cold-sweats within just a few minutes of using the monitor. I was changing all the settings and stuff people suggested on the forum. It got so bad I couldn't even test a single game. I'm hoping this wasn't some type of placebo-effect since I knew this could be an issue and my "body was looking for it." If it means anything, I'm one of those people who have a weak equilibrium (I can't fly on planes, ride on boats, roller coasters, go off-roading, ect.)

Just an FYI, my monitor had firmware 1207 by default so kind of can't pitch the "don't upgrade to the newest firmware if you want the lowest latency" argument anymore to new buyers.

You also can't seem to use a USB monitor with this monitor. It jacks it up and messes up the colors display rate and stuff. I kind of like mine I use AIDA 64 and it shows all my stats real-time like GPU load, CPU load, temps, frequencies, ect.

Guess this monitor just isn't for me. I'm typing this on my Philips and my headaches are now starting to go away. Great computer monitor but I don't think I can ever venture into the TV computer monitor side again unless I know it has no PWM. Yes the Philips has PWM as well but not at 100% brightness which isn't too bright to me what so ever (use to an even brighter Apple Cinema Display monitor)
 
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Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
17,006
Interesting. The PWM on the Philips is only 240hz, which apparently by PWM standards is still really low, so I'd be surprised if the PWM on the Samsung bothered you and didn't on the Philips. I know when I first tried gaming on the 48" I felt ill, but those effects subsided after the first day. I think that was just due to the fact that I had never gamed that close on a display that large and it was overwhelming to my senses. :eek:

On the previous page, SGSeeker said "Going to crack the back of the tv open next weekend and modify the backlight's PWM." I'll be really interested to know how he does that. Looking forward to his update.
 

Brahmzy

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Sep 9, 2004
Messages
4,958
Wow some fast developments. I'm apparently so sensitive to PWM this monitor was practically unusable for me. I was literally breaking out into cold-sweats within just a few minutes of using the monitor. I was changing all the settings and stuff people suggested on the forum. It got so bad I couldn't even test a single game. I'm hoping this wasn't some type of placebo-effect since I knew this could be an issue and my "body was looking for it." If it means anything, I'm one of those people who have a weak equilibrium (I can't fly on planes, ride on boats, roller coasters, go off-roading, ect.)

Just an FYI, my monitor had firmware 1207 by default so kind of can't pitch the "don't upgrade to the newest firmware if you want the lowest latency" argument anymore to new buyers.

You also can't seem to use a USB monitor with this monitor. It jacks it up and messes up the colors display rate and stuff. I kind of like mine I use AIDA 64 and it shows all my stats real-time like GPU load, CPU load, temps, frequencies, ect.

Guess this monitor just isn't for me. I'm typing this on my Philips and my headaches are now starting to go away. Great computer monitor but I don't think I can ever venture into the TV computer monitor side again unless I know it has no PWM. Yes the Philips has PWM as well but not at 100% brightness which isn't too bright to me what so ever (use to an even brighter Apple Cinema Display monitor)

I hear ya on the PWM - it's brutal on the Samsung.
 

Nitemare3219

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 2, 2015
Messages
206
Either I'm not sensitive to PWM, or running at 20 backlight makes it bearable. I haven't had any issues in front of this puppy for hours on end.

Noticed Samsung is putting out a 50" model, and I see sites listing it for $1697... oh the temptation if it releases within my return period. 2" more for $100... but I'm not sure if I can handle going any bigger!
 
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Masejoer

Gawd
Joined
Mar 11, 2001
Messages
698
Either I'm not sensitive to PWM, or running at 20 backlight makes it bearable. I haven't had any issues in front of this puppy for hours on end.

Noticed Samsung is putting out a 50" model, and I see sites listing it for $1697... oh the temptation if it releases within my return period. 2" more for $100... but I'm not sure if I can handle going any bigger!

Backlight level 20 PWM is imperceptible. It's when you get down to lower duty cycles that it becomes an issue. I have have some solid PWM numbers this weekend. The data needs to be gathered in order to modify the PWM rate. I've found the lowest I can use this screen with 120Hz PWM for any sustained time is backlight level 12.
 
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mikeo

Gawd
Joined
May 17, 2006
Messages
660
So I looked at the LG 49uf7600 and the 50in ju6500, I'm going to pick up a 6500, the blacks looked better, better input lag, and it's cheaper. Also, even though the LG is an ips panel, comparing the TV feed on both displays it really crushed any detail in dark scenes and the way it was calibrated in the store the colors weren't that much better to me to outweigh the black level performance.

Also, been using an older 50 in seiki on my desk for the past week and once you get used to resizing and positioning the main window your using in the middle of the screen at the right height the pixel density is perfect and I think a 40 would be too small for my desk size with everything at 100% scaling.
 

Andrew_WOT

n00b
Joined
May 15, 2015
Messages
30
Interesting. The PWM on the Philips is only 240hz, which apparently by PWM standards is still really low, so I'd be surprised if the PWM on the Samsung bothered you and didn't on the Philips. I know when I first tried gaming on the 48" I felt ill, but those effects subsided after the first day. I think that was just due to the fact that I had never gamed that close on a display that large and it was overwhelming to my senses. :eek:

On the previous page, SGSeeker said "Going to crack the back of the tv open next weekend and modify the backlight's PWM." I'll be really interested to know how he does that. Looking forward to his update.
Isn't Sammy 7 series 240hz too?
 
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
53
just got home with the 40ju6500, so far blown away. gettin 4:4:4 at 4k60hz was quick and painless. did a quick calibration for brightness/contrast, backlight is at 10 and i'm not seeing any flickering/eyestrain thus far. also, i had reported in another thread that the sams club 4k hdmi 2 pack wouldnt do 4k60 444 but i was wrong, they do in fact work. so for anyone interested 2 9ft hdmi for $20 is a decent deal.
 

rinaldo00

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 9, 2005
Messages
1,860
Not sure this is a typo, but the Samsung UN48JU7500 is currently $1243.62 out the door with free shipping. Anybody know these guys? http://www.niceelectronics.com/search.phtml?kw=UN48JU7500+Series+48. What's odd was the 40" was $50.00 more. The 55" is a great deal also @ $1550.00 http://www.niceelectronics.com/search.phtml?kw=UN55JU7500+.
Those are AWESOME prices but their return policy is terrible.


Defective Products: Tvs

For the convenience of our valued customers we offer an easy to follow return policy for defective items. Eligible defective products may be returned for an exchange within 7 days from the date your product was delivered. Defective products will be exchanged for the same model only. Defective products must be returned with the original box and packaging and with all included materials including, but not limited to, warranty cards, manuals, and accessories. The UPC label must be intact. We reserve the right to charge for all missing materials.

The 7 day defective exchange policy does not apply to TVs 37" and larger, any oversized product(s) shipped via our motor freight company (not UPS/FedEx), appliances or receivers. If any of these items are deemed defective, they will be covered exclusively by the manufacturers’ warranties, and you must contact the manufacturer for any repairs. If you need assistance with arranging service, please call us at 1-718-215-NICE (6423).

Note: Defective TVs 37" and larger will be serviced by a manufacturer authorized service provider who will be chosen at the sole discretion of the manufacturer. Defective TVs 37” and larger that can not be repaired will be replaced by their manufacturers.

To process a defective return/exchange of a TV (only TVs smaller than 37") you must contact Customer Service at 1-718-215-NICE (6423).. All returns/exchanges require a Return Authorization Number (RA#). This will be provided by Customer Service. All Returns/Exchanges must be double boxed (manufacturers box must be inside of another box designed for shipping), with the RA # written clearly on the outer box accompanied by a note, explaining what is wrong with the item, in the original merchandise box.

Will Samsung cover dead pixels?
 

jstabb

n00b
Joined
Feb 7, 2014
Messages
8
Backlight level 20 PWM is imperceptible. It's when you get down to lower duty cycles that it becomes an issue. Below 50% duty cycle, at 120Hz, the screen will be flickering on and off 60 times per second. At backlight level 20, the on-time appears to be well over 95% (flickers off less than 6 times per second instead of 60).

Another way to think of it:

Brightless level 20 - for every 159ms on, the backlight turns off for 8ms (not noticeable)
Brightless level 10 - for every 8ms on, the backlight turns off for 8ms (eye strain)
Brightless level 1 - for every 8ms on, the backlight turns off for 159ms (noticeable strobe/flicker)

It isn't linear so these numbers aren't exact, but it's a good example. When there is a long on-time, a short off time isn't noticeable. When there is a long off time, a short on-time looks like flickering/strobe/eye straining.

I have have some solid PWM numbers this weekend. The data needs to be gathered in order to modify the PWM rate. I've found the lowest I can use this screen with 120Hz PWM for any sustained time is backlight level 12.

120Hz backlight level 20 will be similar to the backlight off-time of a 2.2Khz PWM 5% duty cycle. This huge range of duty cycle is why >2Khz PWM is commonly used and why I plan on modding the backlight controller to use 2.2KHz PWM.
I'm very interested to hear how your PWM mod goes, but your explanation of PWM duty cycle is incorrect. The frequency of the pulse does not change with duty cycle (DC), only its width.

So for a 120hz PWM signal, the pulse cycles 120 times per second, or every 8.3ms.
At 100% DC that 8.3ms pulse is on for all 8.3ms.
At 50% DC it's on for 4.15ms and off for 4.15ms.
At 25% DC it's on for 2.075ms and off for 6.225ms.

So the rate of flicker does not change, it just becomes more pronounced as the percentage of time the pulse is "off" increases.

I just verified this behavior on my 40JU7500, it pulses at 120hz at 0, 10, and 20 backlight levels.
 

poetik

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
223
Wow, I'm glad I'm not very sensitive to that PWM. There was one guy in here that started having cold sweats? If that's the case then I'd much rather be completely ignorant to PWM haha. Wouldn't want to notice it and then all of a sudden not be able to produce an erection or something :)
 

zero101

n00b
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
46
I was ready to order Philips BDM4065UC but after i found out about those artifacts, i changed my mind
Now i have to research about Samsung UE40JU6450 vs Philips BDM4065UC
Yes, i know, there is no perfect display, advantages and disadvantages
 

Chrisv006

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Messages
109
So I can now get a ju6500 40" or a ju6700 48" locally. Im going to look at both of them, leaning towards the 40"...

I am on a 780 ti, and will not get the 4:4:4. How bad is this going to be compared to the 27" korean ips I have now? Am I going to regret this, would I be better off with a 34" ultrawide or waiting for an option with a DP interface?
 
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
53
having just setup my 40ju6500 today, i can say that 422 isnt bad on the desktop and with games you wont even notice. its miles better than either the sharp 43" or the vizio 43" as far as clarity and readablity. compared to your ips, it should have much better contrast/blacks and i feel this screen size/pixel pitch is perfect. its a longterm purchase so when you get a 900 series or better vidcard you get the full experience, but there is really no pressing need to buy it now. new models are always coming out, some may even be better. i just got impatient and knowing the philips will be priced higher until demand settles, i decided to get it now.
 

Wiz33

Gawd
Joined
May 2, 2015
Messages
782
So I can now get a ju6500 40" or a ju6700 48" locally. Im going to look at both of them, leaning towards the 40"...

I am on a 780 ti, and will not get the 4:4:4. How bad is this going to be compared to the 27" korean ips I have now? Am I going to regret this, would I be better off with a 34" ultrawide or waiting for an option with a DP interface?

All depends on how much reading you have to do. Casual browsing would probably be OK. If you have to do a lot of reading of text like working with spreadsheet, documents and such. It will get to you.
 

Cyph

Gawd
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
812
So I can now get a ju6500 40" or a ju6700 48" locally. Im going to look at both of them, leaning towards the 40"...

I am on a 780 ti, and will not get the 4:4:4. How bad is this going to be compared to the 27" korean ips I have now? Am I going to regret this, would I be better off with a 34" ultrawide or waiting for an option with a DP interface?

I use 4k at 30hz for desktop work on my 670. Good compromise. Just remember to switch to 60hz before you game.
 

Masejoer

Gawd
Joined
Mar 11, 2001
Messages
698
I'm very interested to hear how your PWM mod goes, but your explanation of PWM duty cycle is incorrect. The frequency of the pulse does not change with duty cycle (DC), only its width.

So for a 120hz PWM signal, the pulse cycles 120 times per second, or every 8.3ms.
At 100% DC that 8.3ms pulse is on for all 8.3ms.
At 50% DC it's on for 4.15ms and off for 4.15ms.
At 25% DC it's on for 2.075ms and off for 6.225ms.

So the rate of flicker does not change, it just becomes more pronounced as the percentage of time the pulse is "off" increases.

I just verified this behavior on my 40JU7500, it pulses at 120hz at 0, 10, and 20 backlight levels.

Ah yeah, my brain wasn't all there when I was posting at work today - I haven't touched pwm in a couple years. My project car has some 5W LEDs for tail lights, being dimmed for running lamp mode by pwm in a circuit built a couple years back. Works great and throws out over 2000 lumens of red light at max output. It's a beautiful sight for sure. Far from cheap though, and the pcb that was made after prototyping had to be modified to make it work in the car, since they're ridiculously noisy electrical environments. When the lights are off, there is still enough Voltage on the wire to keep the microcontroller powered up/not reset properly! Anyway, that all works now other than the fact that the microcontroller takes longer to boot up than the LED drivers, and it boots up insanely quick as is (pulls down the driver first thing after power-on). Will likely modify the circuit to make it externally pull down the driver by default so the few milliseconds of flicker on power-on go away.

I'm hoping to get the backlight down to under 20% duty cycle with no perceivable flickering. If I get it done on Saturday, I can run up to a component store to grab anything I need before they close for the evening and weekend.
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
17,006
So I can now get a ju6500 40" or a ju6700 48" locally. Im going to look at both of them, leaning towards the 40"...

I am on a 780 ti, and will not get the 4:4:4. How bad is this going to be compared to the 27" korean ips I have now? Am I going to regret this, would I be better off with a 34" ultrawide or waiting for an option with a DP interface?

The 40" JU6500 will be an outstanding value compared to one of the 34" ultrawides. You're getting a larger screen AND so much more desktop real estate.

I had the LG flat and Dell curved 34" ultrawide monitors prior to coming aboard the Samsung ship. There isn't a chance that I would go back. No way, no how.

Nice monitors for what they are, but they're very vertically challenged and cost around what the 40" 6500 and 6700 do. I love scrolling less on the 4K and it's nice not having to do the workarounds required to get some games running at the 21:9 aspect ratio of 3440x1440.
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
17,006
jstabb and SGSeeker...any idea why Samsung would go with such a low PWM frequency? I can't imagine it costing more (or at least not much more) to make it > 1000 Hz, or even DC for flicker free backlighting.

Even if they did some research and found that most people aren't sensitive to PWM and wouldn't even notice a rate of 120 Hz, it doesn't make much sense to me why they wouldn't hedge on the safe side and go higher.

I'm using a backlight setting of 5...no inability to produce an erection so far, anyway. :D
 

mikeo

Gawd
Joined
May 17, 2006
Messages
660
I can't get 444 onto this monitor, even at 1080p it fails the test. Anyone have any pointers? I am driving it with a evga gtx 960 over hdmi and running firmware 1005. HDMI UHD color is enabled. Also tried my laptop over hdmi and it to failed to run 444 at 4k (30) or 1080p, and I know that laptop with that cable works to my panasonic ax800 at 444 30hz. Should I upgrade the firmware or is there some menu setting I am missing somewhere? I tried hdmi 1 and hdmi 4. Red on blue text is pretty much unreadable and everything looks worse than the seiki 50in 4k tv I was running off the same video card using the same cables before.
 

Cyph

Gawd
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
812
I can't get 444 onto this monitor, even at 1080p it fails the test. Anyone have any pointers? I am driving it with a evga gtx 960 over hdmi and running firmware 1005. HDMI UHD color is enabled. Also tried my laptop over hdmi and it to failed to run 444 at 4k (30) or 1080p, and I know that laptop with that cable works to my panasonic ax800 at 444 30hz. Should I upgrade the firmware or is there some menu setting I am missing somewhere? I tried hdmi 1 and hdmi 4. Red on blue text is pretty much unreadable and everything looks worse than the seiki 50in 4k tv I was running off the same video card using the same cables before.

Device type needs to be PC or PC/DVI.
 

TDSlam720

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 30, 2014
Messages
366
Finally got my 7100. Need some major help though, because this panel is pretty awful so far, but I'm reserving judgement until I get a new HDMI cable. Anytime I use 4k I get a shit ton of flickering where the screen goes black and I feel like there's "noise" on the screen, doesn't look crisp. Could be becasue the cable is some weird up converting cable from my old Seiki 39 4k. Tried a 15 ft blue rigger but I think it was too long, got no signal.

Anyways. What's the latest on what to name HDMI 1, what modes etc should I be using. Also if someone could give me their display settings, such as, brightness, contrast, etc. I would appreciate it.

Desperately want to like this TV, I feel like I should like it after all the praise its gotten, but so far its way worse than my Seiki 4k that cost 1/3rd of the price.

Contrast levels are absolutely atrocious right now. I feel like I'm using TN again. To get anything resembling inky blacks I have to take so much brightness out of it that the screen looks dim and dull. If I boost it it looks like a washed out TN with a 700 contrast ratio.

Even though I'm passing the 4:4:4 tests I feel like I'm not getting full color, which may be from the HDMI cable I'm using. Looks like the when I used to switch my Seiki from 4k to 1080 120 hz. Would lose a ton of color.

What's sharpness supposed to be at? Desktop icon text doesn't look nearly as crisp as it should.

PWM... I never thought I was sensitive to it. I assumed if I never noticed it on my Hanns G and my shitty Seiki than I must not be able to notice it right.. Boy was I wrong. I felt slightly ill as soon as I turned this thing on. It's better at 20 backlight but typing this at night time is making me feel a bit ill after killing the backlight. I can literally see the white bars of light shining through the black/gray background of Hard, and the picture looks jittery like it had too much caffeine.

Also a bit dissapointed in this being called a glossy. I thought It would be glossy like this https://discussions.apple.com/___sbsstatic___/migration-images/173/17395089-1.jpg , Apple glossy screens have some of the best pop I've ever seen out of a display. This Samsung is just like my old Seiki, which I consider semi gloss. I thought it would have a slab of glass over it for that pop.

Anyways I'm full expecting a bunch of hate and flame. Please someone help me lol.
 

Cyph

Gawd
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
812
It's your cable. How does YouTube look? It should look great. If not, then your TV is busted.

Edit: YouTube from Smarthub not from Windows.
Also, Apples screen is a mirror with an IPS screen underneath. You can't compare the two. Boost the contrast and make sure you have RGB full set on both PC and TV. Or switch to YCBCr444. Mismatched HDMI level is what caused the washed out look.
 
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TDSlam720

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 30, 2014
Messages
366
It's your cable. How does YouTube look? It should look great. If not, then your TV is busted.

Edit: YouTube from Smarthub not from Windows.
Also, Apples screen is a mirror with an IPS screen underneath. You can't compare the two. Boost the contrast and make sure you have RGB full set on both PC and TV. Or switch to YCBCr444. Mismatched HDMI level is what caused the washed out look.


Looked alright, a bit noisy. Actually think it looked better through the web.

What do you mean by mismatched HDMI level?

Any recommendations on cable?

Also, I thought the latest firmware was 1210, but it's not letting me go past 1209.
 

Wiz33

Gawd
Joined
May 2, 2015
Messages
782
Yea try Smarthub Youtube (search for LG/Samsung 4K demo), Netflix, Amazon Video, etc. If they look great while PC input doesn't then it's you cable.

Check list of things to do.

click source on remote. go to HDMI 1, push down arrow on remote. select "edit device type" and scroll down and select PC.

Click menu on remote, select"menu" then"picture" then scroll down to "picture option" and turn "HDMI UHD color" to "on".

Go back to menu, select "smart hub" then turn "smart hub auto start" to "off"

Go back to menu, select "system", scroll down to "general" and turn"instant on" to "off"

My current picture setting:

Backlight 12
Contrast 85
Brightness 40
Sharpness 40

I also went into "menu" "system" "eco solution" and turned "ecp sensor" to "on and set min backlight at 6
 

mikeo

Gawd
Joined
May 17, 2006
Messages
660
Finally got my 7100. Need some major help though, because this panel is pretty awful so far, but I'm reserving judgement until I get a new HDMI cable. Anytime I use 4k I get a shit ton of flickering where the screen goes black and I feel like there's "noise" on the screen, doesn't look crisp. Could be becasue the cable is some weird up converting cable from my old Seiki 39 4k. Tried a 15 ft blue rigger but I think it was too long, got no signal.

Anyways. What's the latest on what to name HDMI 1, what modes etc should I be using. Also if someone could give me their display settings, such as, brightness, contrast, etc. I would appreciate it.

Desperately want to like this TV, I feel like I should like it after all the praise its gotten, but so far its way worse than my Seiki 4k that cost 1/3rd of the price.

Contrast levels are absolutely atrocious right now. I feel like I'm using TN again. To get anything resembling inky blacks I have to take so much brightness out of it that the screen looks dim and dull. If I boost it it looks like a washed out TN with a 700 contrast ratio.

Even though I'm passing the 4:4:4 tests I feel like I'm not getting full color, which may be from the HDMI cable I'm using. Looks like the when I used to switch my Seiki from 4k to 1080 120 hz. Would lose a ton of color.

What's sharpness supposed to be at? Desktop icon text doesn't look nearly as crisp as it should.

PWM... I never thought I was sensitive to it. I assumed if I never noticed it on my Hanns G and my shitty Seiki than I must not be able to notice it right.. Boy was I wrong. I felt slightly ill as soon as I turned this thing on. It's better at 20 backlight but typing this at night time is making me feel a bit ill after killing the backlight. I can literally see the white bars of light shining through the black/gray background of Hard, and the picture looks jittery like it had too much caffeine.

Also a bit dissapointed in this being called a glossy. I thought It would be glossy like this https://discussions.apple.com/___sbsstatic___/migration-images/173/17395089-1.jpg , Apple glossy screens have some of the best pop I've ever seen out of a display. This Samsung is just like my old Seiki, which I consider semi gloss. I thought it would have a slab of glass over it for that pop.

Anyways I'm full expecting a bunch of hate and flame. Please someone help me lol.

I just replaced the same shitty Seiki (50in version) with the 50in 6500, I agree with most of this, I think the Seiki was way easier on the eyes, reading text on this monitor is kind of annoying, must be due to the PWM everyone in this thread was talking about. Yes, it is really sharp at 444, but it reminds me of reading on an old flatscreen CRT monitor that causes eyestrain fairly quickly. I don't know if it is my settings or something, but I don't see how people are praising this for use as a full time monitor... It is awesome for gaming though. I'll have a better HDMI cable arriving in the mail tomorrow so we will see if that fixes it.
 
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