New Samsung 4k for everyone.

Brahmzy

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Sep 9, 2004
Messages
4,958
Disable the auto dimming features buried in the menus. Honestly, no ambient light at all will result in the least fatigue. No light means you can turn down the brightness. You never want another light source near the display and/or visible in your field of vision while watching the display.
Hopefully your fatigue is ambient light related and not PWM flicker related.
 

Cyph

Gawd
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
812
I've got the JU7100 50" and noticed a few things. When I turn my light off that is close to the TV the screen looses brightness and gains it back when I turn it back on. Anyone know what that is?

Also having some eye fatigue/strain. My settings are default except for being set to PC mode. Anyone have any suggestions for settings that could help me? Maybe the above is part of the reason for the fatigue since the light I leave on is at the other side of the room and not bright.

That's the ecosensor. It's used to lower the brightness when the ambient lighting is low. These TV's are huge, so it emits more light than a normal monitor.

It sounds like you have a dark room, so you probably want your backlight to be lower than normal. Default for Samsung is an eye-searing 20 backlight as that looks great in the showroom. The reason is that your pupils get larger when there's less light, and your eyes take in much more light at night (or in the dark). A 20 backlight becomes more like 80 when your pupil opens up.

You should find a comfortable setting based on your ambient lighting. 20 backlight is not a good thing when there's no other lighting around you. It's like looking into the sun in the day time.
 

Dan_D

Extremely [H]
Joined
Feb 9, 2002
Messages
60,418
I've got the JU7100 50" and noticed a few things. When I turn my light off that is close to the TV the screen looses brightness and gains it back when I turn it back on. Anyone know what that is?

Also having some eye fatigue/strain. My settings are default except for being set to PC mode. Anyone have any suggestions for settings that could help me? Maybe the above is part of the reason for the fatigue since the light I leave on is at the other side of the room and not bright.

These TV's have a dynamic brightness setting based on the ambient light in the room. You can disable this feature.
 

Nitemare3219

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 2, 2015
Messages
206
My 40" JU7500 is coming tomorrow. I'm not even going to open it until I hear your results Nitemare lol. I've lost track with what's been going on with this thread it's getting quite large. I'm just hoping I can run the newest firmware on game mode 4:2:2? on 4K and the lag isn't in the 52ms range like your source said but the 21~36ms range due to possibly using an older & more laggy firmware. Eagerly awaiting your results :)

Is it coming from Crutchfield, or somewhere you can return it easily? You can go ahead and unbox it my friend... use it and see how you like it! But don't connect it to the internet, and if you have to, make sure you don't at first, ensure auto-update (inside support menu is disabled, then do it. The least amount of lag right now is on firmware versions shipped from the factory (such as 1003, 1006, etc.)

Yes that is correct, see if udh off on stock current firmware in game mode make a difference.

What would really help is an aprox amount of frames.total.lag we are looking at, as in game.mode.4k and pc mode 4k at stock and current firmware. We know 1080p is 20.7ms in game mode so just curious what it is in 4k.

Thanks for all your hardwork!!!

It's fairly hard to get an approximation of frame lag especially when comparing to a different display (like the Catleap). Once a block begins to illuminate, you have to consider actual pixel response time. I've already compared the current firmware to the Catleap and found that, best case scenario (no lag from switching inputs, in game mode) it can be less than a frame behind (I'd say 3/4 of a frame or so). Worst case scenario, meaning the lag is introduced however that happens, it can be up to 2 frames behind - remember, this is behind an IPS display with a response time of ~26 ms already. I have an old ASUS 1080p TN monitor I could test, but I don't know its response time.

On the stock firmware, I still have to test against the Catleap... but it is certainly faster than the current firmware. My 40" originally had version 1006, and it felt the same as 1003 does now. I'd say there's no major difference. Also, those results I posted from RTINGS earlier were in fact from firmware version 1210 - but he didn't realize as I did that switching inputs can cause lag to creep up dramatically for some reason.

I work in video and photo production. My relationship with artificial sharpening is fairly intimate.

Curious as to whether you have some sort of actual information to criticize me with or you're just leaping on the fact that someone else said something that just might sound right so you'll follow their words blindly. I won't deign to call you imbecilic.

"Softening" artifacts aren't really a thing. It'd just be blurring, which I couldn't fathom a practical reason for a TV manufacturer to add in. "Artifacts" being manufactured detail, whereas hypothetical blurring would just be a mixing of pre-existing pixel information.

Theory aside, watch this and perhaps you will see the difference as well. Sped up for clarity. 4K recording is available for download, too, but I don't think you'll need it. ;)

https://vimeo.com/126877565
pw: sharpening

It's much more noticeable at 100 but observe it as it comes back down to 50; the artificial increase in contrast at the edges is still there, for example around the Steam logo. Artificial sharpening darkens the spot to the left of the white part of the logo and lightens the parts to the left of the black part of the logo.

0 makes sense as a setting as the lack of artificial sharpening, or at least the most intuitive. I'd be surprised if it were something else. It's probably also why Game mode defaults to 0 (or so I've heard that is the default, I've never even turned it on as it's not something I need)

I know that while everyone is on a crusade for input lag, I'm still concerned about artificial sharpening, but that's what's important to me. I'm surprised it doesn't interest the gamers because anything that the TV is artificially creating would increase processing times, no?

Whether it looks "good" to a viewer is subjective; I'm sure a little bit of sharpening may be nice depending on what you're looking at. I, however, need to know pixel-precisely how contrasty an edge may actually be and it is clear from the video that PC Mode 50 is not good for that.

You've got me itching to check out the sharpness as well now... but 0 on PC mode looks blurry to me, no question about it. Was it coolhand who said 47 appeared to remove the artifacts but stay sharp? Somebody... anyway, I'll be checking it out myself!

6500 is flat as well. They're probably the same unit.



I believe you're right regarding sharpening. It makes no sense for one mode to have no sharpening at 50 and and 0 on another. That's pretty nonsensical. The superior processing on PC mode is the reason why people think there's no sharpening on 50.

I suspect the stock firmware was missing UHD on game mode which is the reason why it has less input lag (and also why it looked bad). Turning off UHD on the current firmware may lower the lag, and look just as bad as stock.

In any case, I'm having a blast playing games in PC mode. I don't have any issues with game lag (thanks to my inferior reflex :D) on PC mode. I would never trade 4:4:4 for 4:2:0 with less lag. However, I can see how others prefer lower input lag over quality. Godspeed and keep hunting. The Samsung is a great "monitor" and it has something for everyone. It's only been a month, so Samsung will keep churning those firmwares out and hopefully finally get it right. PC mode for quality, and game mode for lower lag and less processing.

Well, here's the thing... as my tests currently show, you can use PC mode (4:4:4) in the old firmware with lower lag than game mode (4:2:2) in the newer firmware. For someone like you, this would be more ideal. I bet you could see the difference if you were comparing it directly to a faster display!

I think the difference of 0 in game mode and 50 in PC mode is just a difference in extremes of available processing... to me, they look the same. But I will examine them both closely.

I'm going to post a couple of photos demonstrating what I've seen so far.

This is the 40" running on 1210 in DVI/PC UHD mode. Its lag at first is pretty damn low... but game mode for some reason was no better when I ran tests that night:

17380584705_f3730bbf07_z_d.jpg


17173120727_9d3a48f6d0_z_d.jpg


This is now game mode... the lag from switching modes is pretty damn evident:

17192784128_266029ce56_z_d.jpg


Didn't matter what I switched it to... now we're at 2+ frames of lag:

17194361669_82c2268951_z_d.jpg


Onto the two Samsungs, both PC mode at first. To do this test you have to have 2 video cards for 2 HDMI ports. Also, it would not allow me to clone the display since they were not on the same GPU (I presume):

17173139407_8d1f69172a_z_d.jpg


16758083164_fa95d1da56_z_d.jpg


The lag starts pretty low...

17194387179_d5f304f36e_z_d.jpg


Creeps up:

17380620605_880095b513_z_d.jpg


And can get pretty bad...

17378651072_c31f9a450e_z_d.jpg


Switching to game mode... even in game mode, the 40" is slower:

17378651512_6965efc6b5_z_d.jpg


17192828498_4e266a79fa_z_d.jpg


Now they're both in game mode (didn't have time to take a picture of modes, but oh well) - gap widens again, but this could be due to the chroma differences which I will test later with UHD off on the 40". I'll also see if UHD even makes a difference on the 48" with game mode.

16760341673_3f68a1af2a_z_d.jpg


17380633365_70fd36f5d1_z_d.jpg


Lastly, the 48" is now in STANDARD TV mode with 120 Hz smoothing on (you can see the artifacting caused by it in the blocks, particularly the last one)... its lag is not bad compared to the 40" in PC mode...

17173180947_4910acdde6_z_d.jpg


17380669475_f53995e995_z_d.jpg


17378690992_d1e5108194_z_d.jpg


Hope this info is helpful guys... more to come.
 
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Tyler-Durden

2[H]4U
Joined
Nov 18, 2012
Messages
2,302
Really nice work, Nitemare!

My 40" 7500 shipped from Crutchfield, today. Hoping against hope it works for my next monitor.
 

coolhandm3

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 28, 2009
Messages
386
It's fairly hard to get an approximation of frame lag especially when comparing to a different display (like the Catleap). Once a block begins to illuminate, you have to consider actual pixel response time. I've already compared the current firmware to the Catleap and found that, best case scenario (no lag from switching inputs, in game mode) it can be less than a frame behind (I'd say 3/4 of a frame or so). Worst case scenario, meaning the lag is introduced however that happens, it can be up to 2 frames behind - remember, this is behind an IPS display with a response time of ~26 ms already. I have an old ASUS 1080p TN monitor I could test, but I don't know its response time.

On the stock firmware, I still have to test against the Catleap... but it is certainly faster than the current firmware. My 40" originally had version 1006, and it felt the same as 1003 does now. I'd say there's no major difference. Also, those results I posted from RTINGS earlier were in fact from firmware version 1210 - but he didn't realize as I did that switching inputs can cause lag to creep up dramatically for some reason.



You've got me itching to check out the sharpness as well now... but 0 on PC mode looks blurry to me, no question about it. Was it coolhand who said 47 appeared to remove the artifacts but stay sharp? Somebody... anyway, I'll be checking it out myself!



Well, here's the thing... as my tests currently show, you can use PC mode (4:4:4) in the old firmware with lower lag than game mode (4:2:2) in the newer firmware. For someone like you, this would be more ideal. I bet you could see the difference if you were comparing it directly to a faster display!

I think the difference of 0 in game mode and 50 in PC mode is just a difference in extremes of available processing... to me, they look the same. But I will examine them both closely.

I'm going to post a couple of photos demonstrating what I've seen so far.

This is the 40" running on 1210 in DVI/PC UHD mode. Its lag at first is pretty damn low... but game mode for some reason was no better when I ran tests that night:


This is now game mode... the lag from switching modes is pretty damn evident:



Didn't matter what I switched it to... now we're at 2+ frames of lag:



Onto the two Samsungs, both PC mode at first. To do this test you have to have 2 video cards for 2 HDMI ports. Also, it would not allow me to clone the display since they were not on the same GPU (I presume):

The lag starts pretty low...



Creeps up:



And can get pretty bad...


Switching to game mode... even in game mode, the 40" is slower:



Now they're both in game mode (didn't have time to take a picture of modes, but oh well) - gap widens again, but this could be due to the chroma differences which I will test later with UHD off on the 40". I'll also see if UHD even makes a difference on the 48" with game mode.


Lastly, the 48" is now in STANDARD TV mode with 120 Hz smoothing on (you can see the artifacting caused by it in the blocks, particularly the last one)... its lag is not bad compared to the 40" in PC mode...





Hope this info is helpful guys... more to come.


Thanks for the photos!

I am having a hard time understanding all of this.

The synopsis is that firmware 1003/1006 in pc mode 4:4:4 is faster then any mode we have on firmware 1210. Correct?

Also does the input lag creep up in the stock firmware like it does on 1210? If not then that alone is huge because its creeping up to 2 frames of lag from what I can tell.

Do you think stock firmware pc mode in 4k feels as fast as game mode 1080p?
 
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Tyler-Durden

2[H]4U
Joined
Nov 18, 2012
Messages
2,302
Thanks for the photos!

I am having a hard time understanding all of this.

The synopsis is that firmware 1003/1006 in pc mode 4:4:4 is faster then any mode we have on firmware 1210. Correct?

Also does the input lag creep up in the stock firmware like it does on 1210? If not then that alone is huge because its creeping up to 2 frames of lag from what I can tell.

Do you think stock firmware pc mode in 4k feels as fast as game mode 1080p?
Do yourself a quick favor and delete the photos from your post before you get slammed for including all of them. ;)
 

Darwin32

Weaksauce
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
85
Do yourself a quick favor and delete the photos from your post before you get slammed for including all of them. ;)

He doesn't mind the doubling of pictures, as he's on 4k and doesn't need to bother with scrolling... But the rest of us, who are still on 1080p, are indeed hurting. :D
 

Nitemare3219

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 2, 2015
Messages
206
Thanks for the photos!

I am having a hard time understanding all of this.

The synopsis is that firmware 1003/1006 in pc mode 4:4:4 is faster then any mode we have on firmware 1210. Correct?

Also does the input lag creep up in the stock firmware like it does on 1210? If not then that alone is huge because its creeping up to 2 frames of lag from what I can tell.

Do you think stock firmware pc mode in 4k feels as fast as game mode 1080p?

I'm equally baffled. I really don't understand how lag just increases... but the proof is right there.

1003/1006 in PC mode 4:4:4, is in fact faster than anything on 1210 (except 1080p, I'd venture to guess - maybe they're equal. I'll test this as well).

PC mode on stock feels as fast as any display I've really used. I'll switch it to 1080p to see if it gets any faster, but I doubt it. Its speed at 4K will be more evident once I compare it to the Catleap, and it may even be faster since the Leo Bodnar was 20~ ms in game mode at 1080p. I'd say it's possible for 4K to be just as fast.

More tests either tonight or tomorrow guys. I want to install my TITAN X AIO coolers, game a bit on this 48" beauty, and clean up my moving mess!
 

coolhandm3

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 28, 2009
Messages
386
I'm equally baffled. I really don't understand how lag just increases... but the proof is right there.

1003/1006 in PC mode 4:4:4, is in fact faster than anything on 1210 (except 1080p, I'd venture to guess - maybe they're equal. I'll test this as well).

PC mode on stock feels as fast as any display I've really used. I'll switch it to 1080p to see if it gets any faster, but I doubt it. Its speed at 4K will be more evident once I compare it to the Catleap, and it may even be faster since the Leo Bodnar was 20~ ms in game mode at 1080p. I'd say it's possible for 4K to be just as fast.

More tests either tonight or tomorrow guys. I want to install my TITAN X AIO coolers, game a bit on this 48" beauty, and clean up my moving mess!

Sounds good! Does the stock firmware lag creep up too though?
 

Seyumi

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Messages
367
Thanks, I'm a bit confused by the new findings as well. As long as we don't touch the inputs, does the lag stay low on the new firmware or does it just creep up regardless after X amount of use? Long story short, don't upgrade your firmware if you're a new user and want the lowest MS lag possible?
 

poetik

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
223
So close to pulling the trigger on one of these. The general consensus is that the 7500 has less motion blur than the 6700 right?

I owned a 40" sammy tv before and the motion blur killed it for me. My friend had the same tv but 32" and he had virtually no motion blur at all.
 

Nitemare3219

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 2, 2015
Messages
206
Sounds good! Does the stock firmware lag creep up too though?

I don't think so. It has no problem switching inputs, etc. I haven't noticed anything but my time with it has been limited to two or so hours... enough proof for me right now.

Thanks, I'm a bit confused by the new findings as well. As long as we don't touch the inputs, does the lag stay low on the new firmware or does it just creep up regardless after X amount of use? Long story short, don't upgrade your firmware if you're a new user and want the lowest MS lag possible?

I felt like even after some period of time, lag crept up in PC modes. I'm not sure about game mode... As of right now, for the lowest response time, I'd stick to older firmware. Samsung could probably fix this later on, but I wouldn't bet on it.

So close to pulling the trigger on one of these. The general consensus is that the 7500 has less motion blur than the 6700 right?

I owned a 40" sammy tv before and the motion blur killed it for me. My friend had the same tv but 32" and he had virtually no motion blur at all.

A few users found that to be the case. I only had the 7500 from the start, so I can only comment on it. I feel great gaming on it - no extreme blur compared to other displays. If you actually check my older posts, I took pictures of the blur/ghost trails (blurbusters test) compared to a few other displays and it did great.
 

Seyumi

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Messages
367
Wow what horrible luck with my 40" JU7500. Not only was there a bright white stuck pixel on the center of the screen but the unit arrived DOA. The backlight turns on and I can hear the menu and the clicking sounds when pressing the remote but no actual picture. I tried to do some basic trouble shooting such as disconnecting/reconnecting the one mini box, switching inputs, pulling the power plug completely, ect. and no luck. Think I'm just going to return this instead of replace until they fix the firmware. I'm not really having warm & fuzzies about the 52ms lag. I have no guarantee I have older firmware this was the newest batch in stock on Amazon. Thank god for their return policy. More annoying question to follow when new firmware hits. lol.

I had 1 major complaint. When the screen was just fully black it reminded me exactly of an IPS monitor. IPS glow where the blacks look more like dark greys from the patchy backlight source. My Philips 40" 4K is straight up inky black and there is no evidence of this at all. Is this because my monitor wasn't even functioning where effects such as backlight dimming weren't turned on or is this how the monitor always is? Looks like an IPS not a VA panel.

Some observations from a 40" Philips owner:

The Samung sits about 1" lower on the stand which is perfect since the Philips is slightly a bit too high on eye level.
-The monitor is indeed more glossy than the Philips but not by much. The Philips was more or less the closest glossy version of a semi-gloss monitor than I've ever seen
-The remote looks a bit retarded lol,
 

Grotok

n00b
Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
24
I wanted to give a fair bit of warning to anyone following the thread. I recently received my 7500 from Crutchfield, it was running on 1006 firmware. I had auto-update disabled but it was connected to the internet. Approximately 3 days into using it, I got a random message stating that the TV was updating the software, it automatically updated to 1210.

Unless you absolutely need the smart-tv features, do not connect it to the internet even with auto-updates disabled if you would like to stay on the default firmware with 100% certainty.
 

chrono69

n00b
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
3
I wanted to give a fair bit of warning to anyone following the thread. I recently received my 7500 from Crutchfield, it was running on 1006 firmware. I had auto-update disabled but it was connected to the internet. Approximately 3 days into using it, I got a random message stating that the TV was updating the software, it automatically updated to 1210.

Unless you absolutely need the smart-tv features, do not connect it to the internet even with auto-updates disabled if you would like to stay on the default firmware with 100% certainty.

Yep happened to me. Before I connected to Wifi I made sure auto update was off. Enabling Wifi and or going through the smart hub setup turned on auto update and updated my shit. Good news is I can't tell the difference between 1006 and 1210 but it's still a bit unnerving that it did that...
 

Cyph

Gawd
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
812
I had 1 major complaint. When the screen was just fully black it reminded me exactly of an IPS monitor. IPS glow where the blacks look more like dark greys from the patchy backlight source. My Philips 40" 4K is straight up inky black and there is no evidence of this at all. Is this because my monitor wasn't even functioning where effects such as backlight dimming weren't turned on or is this how the monitor always is? Looks like an IPS not a VA panel.

Pretty sure yours is busted. The blacks on these are extremely black. On a full black screen, the backlight should be off so there should not be a glow, or any glow.
 

coolhandm3

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 28, 2009
Messages
386
Wow what horrible luck with my 40" JU7500. Not only was there a bright white stuck pixel on the center of the screen but the unit arrived DOA. The backlight turns on and I can hear the menu and the clicking sounds when pressing the remote but no actual picture. I tried to do some basic trouble shooting such as disconnecting/reconnecting the one mini box, switching inputs, pulling the power plug completely, ect. and no luck. Think I'm just going to return this instead of replace until they fix the firmware. I'm not really having warm & fuzzies about the 52ms lag. I have no guarantee I have older firmware this was the newest batch in stock on Amazon. Thank god for their return policy. More annoying question to follow when new firmware hits. lol.

I had 1 major complaint. When the screen was just fully black it reminded me exactly of an IPS monitor. IPS glow where the blacks look more like dark greys from the patchy backlight source. My Philips 40" 4K is straight up inky black and there is no evidence of this at all. Is this because my monitor wasn't even functioning where effects such as backlight dimming weren't turned on or is this how the monitor always is? Looks like an IPS not a VA panel.

Some observations from a 40" Philips owner:

The Samung sits about 1" lower on the stand which is perfect since the Philips is slightly a bit too high on eye level.
-The monitor is indeed more glossy than the Philips but not by much. The Philips was more or less the closest glossy version of a semi-gloss monitor than I've ever seen
-The remote looks a bit retarded lol,

What is the input lag for the Phillips in 4k?
 

ssj92

n00b
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Messages
26
Got my Titan X today. Realized something interesting. I could not get 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 PC or GAME mode to work right. I thought it was my 780 at first but even the Titan X didn't work with either. I was stuck with 4:2:0.

So then I tried hooking up the Titan X directly to the TV without my receiver in between. 4:4:4 working fine now...I'm running both Titan X (for video to the TV) and GTX 780 (for audio to the receiver) now.

But then I noticed something....When I was loading a game, the screen was black and I saw a dead or hot pixel. Now I'm debating what to do. This is a hot pixel right? Anyway to fix it or do I have to return this thing? Here's a pic:

http://i.imgur.com/gcya09h.jpg
 

TheDarkTao

Gawd
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
800
I have a strange update...

My UN50JU6500 came with firmware 1201.... yes that is not a typo. I never heard of anyone else having it. Picture quality was always great, but the lag/ghosting seemed bad.

I recently turned on the internet on the TV. I disabled auto update... but when I just checked after noticing alot of blur, I was on firmware version 1210... yes not typo from 1201 to 1210. Things seemed nice enough... But I was really worried about the input lag.

So I decided to try something. After hearing about all the lag issue with switching inputs, I decided to re-start and reconfigure all the setting on the TV. Sure enough!!!

I think I may have found a possible (this is only a theory) culprit for what could be causing the lag.

I tried two things. I noticed that smarthub was turning on automatically when the TV came on. So I shut that off. Two... people are reporting that the lag gets worse and worse over time with the panel being on. So I had a thought. These tv's are basically really weak computers with a monitor built in. The have processors and ram, and run a rudimentary "OS" in a sense. So, I thought about old PCs and how they would bog down if you don't restart them. So I gave it a try, I tured off instant on (samsungs way of not making the software reboot, but going into a hibernation) and turned off auto start on smart hub...

My ghosting and lag seem to be better! I know this should not affect ghosting in theory, but it seems to as well as input lag by a great bit.

I know this seems random, it could possibly be a number of things since I made so many changes. But I just thought it may be worth a shot. FYI I have it set up as DVI PC and use a true dvi to hdmi cable as well. 444 not game mode uhd enabled 4k
 
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Seyumi

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 30, 2011
Messages
367
Got my Titan X today. Realized something interesting. I could not get 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 PC or GAME mode to work right. I thought it was my 780 at first but even the Titan X didn't work with either. I was stuck with 4:2:0.

So then I tried hooking up the Titan X directly to the TV without my receiver in between. 4:4:4 working fine now...I'm running both Titan X (for video to the TV) and GTX 780 (for audio to the receiver) now.

But then I noticed something....When I was loading a game, the screen was black and I saw a dead or hot pixel. Now I'm debating what to do. This is a hot pixel right? Anyway to fix it or do I have to return this thing? Here's a pic:

http://i.imgur.com/gcya09h.jpg

Yup that's a hot pixel. Mine had the same thing and returned immediately. Return it or get the panel replaced. It will bother u everything you ever have a dark scene lol.
 

ssj92

n00b
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Messages
26
Yup that's a hot pixel. Mine had the same thing and returned immediately. Return it or get the panel replaced. It will bother u everything you ever have a dark scene lol.

I ordered from B&H, they're return policy on tvs isn't that great.

Does samsung cover this under warranty? Like, would they come to your house to fix it? I've had a tech come over to fix a samsung dishwasher before so don't see why the same can't be done for a tv lol.
 

TheDarkTao

Gawd
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
800
BTW... I have found that 50 brightness is a bit too much with backlight at 20... I have found 37 to be a lot better. I also set the gamma at -1. I like the settings so far. Just curious if anyone with good color calibration software found some good settings to play with.

Did anyone happen to test out what I found above... or think its not accurate. Just curious :D
 

coolhandm3

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 28, 2009
Messages
386
I have a strange update...

My UN50JU6500 came with firmware 1201.... yes that is not a typo. I never heard of anyone else having it. Picture quality was always great, but the lag/ghosting seemed bad.

I recently turned on the internet on the TV. I disabled auto update... but when I just checked after noticing alot of blur, I was on firmware version 1210... yes not typo from 1201 to 1210. Things seemed nice enough... But I was really worried about the input lag.

So I decided to try something. After hearing about all the lag issue with switching inputs, I decided to re-start and reconfigure all the setting on the TV. Sure enough!!!

I think I may have found a possible (this is only a theory) culprit for what could be causing the lag.

I tried two things. I noticed that smarthub was turning on automatically when the TV came on. So I shut that off. Two... people are reporting that the lag gets worse and worse over time with the panel being on. So I had a thought. These tv's are basically really weak computers with a monitor built in. The have processors and ram, and run a rudimentary "OS" in a sense. So, I thought about old PCs and how they would bog down if you don't restart them. So I gave it a try, I tured off instant on (samsungs way of not making the software reboot, but going into a hibernation) and turned off auto start on smart hub...

My ghosting and lag seem to be better! I know this should not affect ghosting in theory, but it seems to as well as input lag by a great bit.

I know this seems random, it could possibly be a number of things since I made so many changes. But I just thought it may be worth a shot. FYI I have it set up as DVI PC and use a true dvi to hdmi cable as well. 444 not game mode uhd enabled 4k

I tried this and it worked for me!

Labeling input 2 DVI to DVI PC, turning off instant on and turning off smarthub has now got my DVI/PC 4K to the same lag as game mode 1080p.

Nitemare, you may want to check this out and see what you get.... very cool! Very happy here now :)
 

CyJackX

n00b
Joined
Apr 8, 2015
Messages
50
Just discovered a smudgy little black spot :(
Don't know if it was there before...It doesn't look like a square black pixel but a smudgy splotch.

My order was ordered on the 18th and came in on the 21st...is it too late for a no questions asked return or do I have to do warranty? Can't find the info rn.
 

Cyph

Gawd
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
812
I tried this and it worked for me!

Labeling input 2 DVI to DVI PC, turning off instant on and turning off smarthub has now got my DVI/PC 4K to the same lag as game mode 1080p.

Nitemare, you may want to check this out and see what you get.... very cool! Very happy here now :)

Nice! I didn't even realize Smarthub could be turned off. Perhaps now the BIOS boot will show up.

Just discovered a smudgy little black spot :(
Don't know if it was there before...It doesn't look like a square black pixel but a smudgy splotch.

My order was ordered on the 18th and came in on the 21st...is it too late for a no questions asked return or do I have to do warranty? Can't find the info rn.

Do you have a picture? Aren't you within the 30 day return window?
 

CyJackX

n00b
Joined
Apr 8, 2015
Messages
50
Do you have a picture? Aren't you within the 30 day return window?

I suppose I'll have to take advantage of the 30day return then.

I've never had a problem like this before so I'm not quite sure how to deal with it. It also appears to be "above" the pixel layer, i.e. it shifts position relative to UI elements if I view it from different angles.
 

Cyph

Gawd
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
812
I suppose I'll have to take advantage of the 30day return then.

I've never had a problem like this before so I'm not quite sure how to deal with it. It also appears to be "above" the pixel layer, i.e. it shifts position relative to UI elements if I view it from different angles.

I returned one that had a hair stuck between the glass and panel. Yours sound like a similar problem. Amazon will cross ship, Crutchfield won't.
 

Brahmzy

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Sep 9, 2004
Messages
4,958
Cyph - were you the one that posted the reg fix for the shrinking/redistribution of icons to the top left? If so - youdaman. It worked like a charm.
 

poetik

Limp Gawd
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
223
Due to the motion blur that brahmzy and a few others have dealt with on the 6700's, I opted for a 40" 7500.

I'm personally pretty sensitive to motion blur so that was a huge reason why I went towards the 7500. I've seen it before on some samsung tv's that I've owned and it was pretty bad. I know the 7500 is a couple hundred dollars more expensive and doesn't come with a free blu ray player but... It'll be so worth it for less motion blur. For close to $1400, I sure hope it meets my expectations.

Now whether or not to keep the 40" or go with the 48"... Impressions will come on Monday!
 

DrFish96

n00b
Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Messages
5
Hey guys! Could you help me out a bit?

I'm torn between buying the curved samsung ue40ju6500 (I live in Europe and the TV model is curved here) and the philips. At first, I was sold on the philips, but after seeing complaints about image retention and even burn in, I took a step back(weird stuff that happens to colors on magenta and grey backgrounds doesn't bother me). I'm not willing to pay a lot of money for something that has burn in issues, that scares me. Then some of the users started talking about the new samsungs and how great they are. But I don't know, the samsung is still a TV and I have this preconceived idea it's going to be a hassle making it work like a monitor because you know, it's a TV, it bugs me that it won't enter a standby mode after signal from the gpu is lost, like a monitor does, I just think it's going to be slower than a monitor in general, and input lag is higher but it doesn't bother me that much. I have to give it to the samsung though, that curve is really nice, and that's a big plus for the sammy in my opinion, I also heard that the colors are better on the samsung as well, and I don't give a damn thing about PWM, I found out, all of my previous monitors had it and I never had any issues with them. So I'm asking you, people of this forum that have tried them both, which one do you recommend strictly as a monitor as I have no intention of using the samsung as a TV, for me it actually comes down to the curve on the samsung, is it worth buying a TV, and going through the hassle of making it work like a monitor just for the curve? Or am I better off just going with the philips which is a proper monitor. And this just came to me right now, they both use VA panels so much of the problems like image retention and burn in the philips has, should be expected on the samsung as well,right?
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
17,093
There is no "hassle" involved with using the monitor as a TV. It's simply a matter of connecting the HDMI cable, switching to that input, and adjusting a couple of the options in the menus to optimize the image. That's it.

I don't have any reason to suspect that the Samsung will experience burn-in. There have been tons of VA panels produced over the years, and it's not like they are known for burn-in. All LCDs are susceptible to image retention if a static image is left on long enough. The Philips was the first one in a while where some owners claimed that they experienced burn-in that wouldn't go away. And they may have had a defective batch, because others claim that they never had the issue.
 

DrFish96

n00b
Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Messages
5
I said it's a "hassle" because I bought an LG 40UB800V which is 40 inch, 4k and uses a VA panel that had hdmi 2.0. But I didn't know that the 4:2:0 chroma subsampling would look that bad. I couldn't look at the screen without my eyes burning and there was some stuff that wasn't even distinguishable due to the 4:2:0 problem. Also every movement seemed lagy and the mouse looked like it was moving at 30 fps and with lag, even though 60 fps was enabled. When I opened my games up, the TV would start to flicker black and green for about 10-15 seconds before finally managing to display the game. So I guess that's why I have this preconceived idea that buying another TV would bring back the awful experience I had with the LG, that "hassle".
 

SixFootDuo

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Oct 5, 2004
Messages
5,825
Well I sold my new JU6500 50" a few weeks ago to a client. He picked up the set yesterday. I'm finally back on my going on 2 year old LG 42" 1080p and .... god this sucks hahha.

I'm going to go to the 40" 6500 I think ... I may wait for things to settle a bit with firmwares and additional 4k sets that are coming out shortly.

Anyone who doesn't have one of these new Samsung 4k sets are honestly truely missing out on greatness!
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
17,093
I said it's a "hassle" because I bought an LG 40UB800V which is 40 inch, 4k and uses a VA panel that had hdmi 2.0. But I didn't know that the 4:2:0 chroma subsampling would look that bad. I couldn't look at the screen without my eyes burning and there was some stuff that wasn't even distinguishable due to the 4:2:0 problem. Also every movement seemed lagy and the mouse looked like it was moving at 30 fps and with lag, even though 60 fps was enabled. When I opened my games up, the TV would start to flicker black and green for about 10-15 seconds before finally managing to display the game. So I guess that's why I have this preconceived idea that buying another TV would bring back the awful experience I had with the LG, that "hassle".

OK, well this TV is not that one and I can assure you that it doesn't suffer from those issues. :)

As long as you don't expect the response time of a cutting edge TN panel like the Asus ROG Swift, you shouldn't be disappointed. One of the reasons these TVs are so popular is because they are *not* a hassle to set up to look and perform great as PC monitors.
 

DrFish96

n00b
Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Messages
5
Ok, thanks for reassuring me! I needed that :)

I think I'm going to place the order for the samsung tomorrow. This TV really caught my eyes. And hey, I do like me some curves on things I pay for ;)

This was my setup with the 40 inch LG. I had to sell the monitors so I could afford the Samsung though.

http://imgur.com/j0OzuB0
 
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