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Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:
a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc
Thank you.
Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:
a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc
Thank you.
Also consider that LEDs take some time to bed in before the final colour spectrum sets.
For example, I am using 2 point source LED lights for my fish tank, rated at 6500K.
When I first got them, they had a slightly green hue and were lacking in red.
After 6 months they gave a lovely colour, plenty of red and the green was no longer dominant.
Its now 2 years later and they are just as good.
Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:
a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc
Thank you.
Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:
a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc
Thank you.
48" curved
32-36 (depending on sitting up straight or slightly leaning forward)
100%
Like Mako I came from Dell 30" 1600p monitors, so this feels the same to me.
Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:
a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc
Thank you.
1st post...
I've been lurking here the past couple of week thinking about getting one of these primarily for programming.
Well, Crutchfield just sent me this...
That's a 40" 6700.
The box and packaging looks perfect.
I'm guessing these curved screens are just prone to cracking easier. Better be careful if you ever move with one of these.
Crutchfield was good about it on the phone. But now I gotta wait for UPS to contact me about returning the damaged item.
Gah.
That's been the general consensus in this thread. At 48" it isn't such a gimmick when talking about using this display as a monitor. At 40" it is unnecessary and possibly undesirable.
It really depends on the LED. Due to the phosphor coating, less light should have it get warmed up a bit by the consistent phosphor thickness, but I have seen some weird behaviors with white LEDs at different power levels. I wouldn't consider a green-shift to be useable.
According to who? Overdriven/damaged LEDs, or unstable phosphors, may shift, but LEDs in general will only tint-shift over many thousands of hours due to decreased output. Purchase two white LEDs, run one for a year straight at max rated current (8700 hours), compare to the second white LED that was left untouched - unless damaged, the only difference will be the used-LED will be dimmer, having a very small color shift due to a dropped output going through the same phosphor.
The forward-Voltage may drop a very small amount on an LED in the first few hours of use, which could increase its output depending on how it is being driven/limited, making it push a different amount of light through the phosphor coating. Beyond this small shift, any quality LED is stable.
LEDs aren't like most other light sources that do tint-shift quite a bit during their lifetime. LEDs are pretty damn stable.
I got a call from the store about my wish to return the TV. I told them I was feeling fatigue and headache, they asked me if I tried different settings, I said "yes I tried but it did not help", then they said that the standard TV settings out of box is not good and I have to change them, and I told them once again that I tried everything and it did not help, but then they said how every TV will be like that. I then tried to explain that I think a very low PWM is the cause but they did not seem to understand and at the end they said "ok... you have the right to return the TV ofc, ship it back to us".
Ofc they were not happy to hear that I will return it, because they will lose money now but I can not keep something that I can't use without getting headache![]()
Who was the seller? I've gotta call Crutchfield and tell em' I've got TWO to ship back!
Hopefully some of this makes it back to Samsung concerning future PWM/bottom-line $ decisions. Probably not.
Also, I played some more BF4 this morning with fresh eyes and the 7500 is really an amazingly good gaming monitor for it's size. There is a substantial difference in how fast it is over the 6700. Not trying to beat the dead horse even more, just sayin'. I have zero issues with the level of blur from the 7500.
Now that I've had a day at work, and revisted the 48" I am coming around on it. I have another 29 days to decide but I'm leaning towards keeping it.
Why you little...
The only thing that worries me is the possible panel lottery that someone mentioned earlier. It would suck to order a 7500 and receive a different panel than the one you and Cyph got. I wish that we could get some confirmation on this, rather than just speculation like "Well they've done it in the past."
How can we tell what brand and model of panels these are using? The AVS guys are usually all over that sort of thing, but I really don't feel like slogging through the huge threads over there.
I wasn't sure either while getting used to it. I did a motherboard review and switched between it and the Dell 3007WFP-HC on my test bench and realized they were largely similar in many areas.
Why you little...
The only thing that worries me is the possible panel lottery that someone mentioned earlier. It would suck to order a 7500 and receive a different panel than the one you and Cyph got. I wish that we could get some confirmation on this, rather than just speculation like "Well they've done it in the past."
How can we tell what brand and model of panels these are using? The AVS guys are usually all over that sort of thing, but I really don't feel like slogging through the huge threads over there.
Also, when I boot my computer I didn't notice the BIOS being displayed. Is this normal with using a TV as a monitor, or is there something I can change to allow me to see the BIOS on bootup?
My question is, as I'm also replacing my 70" Sharp soon is what is the state of PWM in the big screens? If I drop $4500 on a new 80" 4K UH30 Sharp, will it have PWM? If so, what freq?
Samsung's 88" $23,000 JS9500 set - does it have PWM? FALD, of course, but what does it use to dim? I cannot imagine 88 inches of low-freq PWM in my face. I think I'd start having seizures and soil myself.
That's it! I saw my BIOS flash by again when I first plugged in the new 7500 (before I had it all configured (UHD color enabled.)...it tends to happen when UHD color is on.
For those that have gotten the 40" 6700, did the packing material include a styrofoam piece in front of the screen? My 48" did, but the 40" did not. I wonder if that is a contributing factor to the shipped screen damages where the box looks great.
Oh I'm not dropping $23K on a set, lol. I'm just asking is if POS crappy 120hz PWM dimming is what they put in their $23K sets, lol.
No, I've got a $5K TV budget - which means a Sharp UH30 80" (need bigger than 70".)
The bigger size sets are usually identical in specs so most likely.
I also think 4K OLED will be somewhat affordable by next year, but probably not in 75+ size. I expect the 55" and 65" to drop to around $2K and $5K respectively.
I also think 4K OLED will be somewhat affordable by next year, but probably not in 75+ size. I expect the 55" and 65" to drop to around $2K and $5K respectively.
It will be a LONG time (if ever) OLED is affordable ($5K-ish) in an ~80" size) Life's short and I don't do small TVs, that means big edge-lit LCDs for me, lol.
I am thinking about this as my new "monitor", it supports 4:4:4. Just have to find out about PWM.
How does it do 4k 444 without HDMI 2.0?
For those that have gotten the 40" 6700, did the packing material include a styrofoam piece in front of the screen? My 48" did, but the 40" did not. I wonder if that is a contributing factor to the shipped screen damages where the box looks great.
I am thinking about this as my new "monitor", it supports 4:4:4. Just have to find out about PWM.