New Samsung 4k for everyone.

I'm at the point where I think I'm going to be sending this 6700 and the coming 7500 back. I've been just surfing for an hour and a half and I've got a headache and feel a bit queezy, lol.

It HAS to be the PWM. I've tried every brightness setting known to man on this thing, in combination with every other setting and none of it works. This sucks. We can assume, if we haven't already verified, there will be no difference PWM-wise with the 7500. I will do any blur comparisons I can, but I think the PWM is bad enough I've gotta find a different display.

Sucks to be me cause I love this thing! Such a beautiful high-quality display in every other way.

When I take a step away, it's like a sigh of relief. When I get back in front of it, it all comes back. WTF did Samsung have to choose such a low PWM frequency???

It seems to be PWM :(

I assume you got a 7100, not a 6500?
 
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I just realized that the blazing white of my Chrome browser is giving me eye fatigue because this panel is so bright, as the glossy lets out tons of light. Try this add-on for Chrome Browser to see if it helps "Care for your eyes"

Let me know if it alleviates eye fatigue. Avoid blazing white background, 40" of white is too much!

Edit: Try G. Luxe as well. These TV's output a boatload of light; Be careful if you sit too close; turn down the intensity by masking white backgrounds.
 
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I dont know if this is usable, it might be worth trying as a test.
Set brightness to max and turn contrast down to get a brightness level that makes it workable.
See if that is less fatiguing, even if it looks like crap.

The idea being that max brightness will have the longest PWM pulse and may even turn PWM off so should be more tolerable.
Contrast does not affect PWM (from previous discussions) so can be used to reduce brightness without PWM.
It might not look pleasant but you may be able to perceive a difference to your state.

The point being that you may be able to determine if it is the PWM and not brightness level affecting you.
 
I'm at the point where I think I'm going to be sending this 6700 and the coming 7500 back. I've been just surfing for an hour and a half and I've got a headache and feel a bit queezy, lol.

It HAS to be the PWM. I've tried every brightness setting known to man on this thing, in combination with every other setting and none of it works. This sucks. We can assume, if we haven't already verified, there will be no difference PWM-wise with the 7500. I will do any blur comparisons I can, but I think the PWM is bad enough I've gotta find a different display.

Sucks to be me cause I love this thing! Such a beautiful high-quality display in every other way.

When I take a step away, it's like a sigh of relief. When I get back in front of it, it all comes back. WTF did Samsung have to choose such a low PWM frequency???



I assume you got a 7100, not a 6500?

See my other post. I got fatigue from it too. Try and avoid the white backgrounds and tell me if it helps.
 
I don't see how anyone can stand having this display at a Backlight of 20.

Here are my current settings, if anyone wants to try them out. Brightness needs turned up for a few games, but you can usually do that from within the game:

Backlight: 3
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 50
Gamma: -3
Color Tone: Warm 2
HDMI Black Level: Low

These are with input labeled PC and UHD Color on, of course.
 
OK, I just tested Youtube on SmartHub vs Youtube on a browser. Night and day difference in color, contrast, judder, etc. Youtube on SmartHub has all options turned on, which means SmartHub itself is its own input setting. Try it out and tell me if you're not impressed (just hit SmartHub regardless if you're on HDMI1 or not).

That means we need to be able to view 4K videos through a non-PC mode HDMI input or hopefully streamed through Plex when it's available. If you've been watching 4K in PC Mode on a browser, you're not doing this TV justice. No wonder it doesn't look as good as my F8500. PC Mode is gimped mode for video.

The YouTube app doesn't support 4k streaming. Turn on the video info and try out a few 4k streams. It will max out at 1080p.

As far as my Spyder3 calibration settings go, I can give you my TV settings, but I'm not sure what to do with my Spyder3 settings. Obviously it didn't change my TV settings, so where is the info it changed? The display profile?
 
The YouTube app doesn't support 4k streaming. Turn on the video info and try out a few 4k streams. It will max out at 1080p.

You need to search for VP9 4K. It's the only format that works for TV. http://www.tomsguide.com/us/what-is-vp9-4k-streaming,news-18221.html. If you have HEVC, use a USB stick or wait for Plex.

There's one called 4k test video. You'll know its 4k just by playing... Nicest juiciest Peking duck you've ever seen.

Edit: sample 4k UHD by stock footage.com is also a good one.
 
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Got it fully setup after getting home from work. I definitely would have a hard time playing FPS games on here there is way too much blur, but for desktop use it's great.

Here are a couple pics (click for full size) of before and after comparing my U3011.
My U3011


My 6700
 
How's the QA on these, aside from the cracked screens? I don't think I've seen anyone complain about dead pixels or anything like that yet.
 
QA is stellar.

Backlight: 3
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 50
Gamma: -3
Color Tone: Warm 2
HDMI Black Level: Low

These are pretty good. Again, it's funny - there's about 8 different ways to get to what these settings show, and you basically end up in the same spot. I can have the backlight up near 6-7, but the contrast and brightness way down and get an almost identical picture. I'm convinced the Backlight setting actually isn't the backlight per se, but rather, every setting that's affects brightness in any way controls the backlight because there's next to no difference with the end result. JMO
 
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An hour of BF4 in the pitch dark last night gave me a nice ol' headache for about an hour.

Isn't it a shortcut to eyestrain when you game or watch TV in a completely dark room, regardless of the quality or features of the display?
 
How's the QA on these, aside from the cracked screens? I don't think I've seen anyone complain about dead pixels or anything like that yet.

I have one stuck blue pixel in the far bottom left, but it's out of the way, and only noticeable within 12~14 inches of the screen. That's it though - the rest of the panel looks good, and the backlighting is smooth.

Red or green stuck pixels would be far more noticeable. We don't see blue light that well in the first place.
 
Isn't it a shortcut to eyestrain when you game or watch TV in a completely dark room, regardless of the quality or features of the display?

It honestly doesn't matter - today I had the lights on and had worse issues, which having ambient light with the semi-gloss screen creates a whole different issue in eye strain for me.
The wife and I will watch hours and hours of TV and movies on the 70" some nights in the pitch black and not feel the least bit of eye fatigue. Same with other monitors. I'll be on my iPad for hours on end in the dark with absolutely no issues. I get in front of the 6700, no matter the brightness and within 15-30 seconds I'm 'feeling it.' That tells me it's the PWM flicker.

For kicks I tried turning on the MI tonight and holy cow you talk about flicker - turn on the black frame insertion or whatever it's called. Wow.
 
Mine showed up today. Just had enough time to connect it and check for defects. I didn't see anything, but the remote only works to power on/off the set and none of the other keys work. Thankfully a USB keyboard works to drive the set and all the functions are exposed.

Anyone else have a non functional remote?

My wife's 40" 6700 had that issue. From the manual I found you can re-pair the remote to the display - while pointing the remote at the remote sensor, hold down both the "Return/Exit" and "Extra" buttons for at least 3 seconds (I did 10 or so). Also, remove the batteries and re-insert them. This cleared up the issue for me.

Good luck and report back if that works or not.
 
OK, I just tested Youtube on SmartHub vs Youtube on a browser. Night and day difference in color, contrast, judder, etc. Youtube on SmartHub has all options turned on, which means SmartHub itself is its own input setting. Try it out and tell me if you're not impressed (just hit SmartHub regardless if you're on HDMI1 or not).

That means we need to be able to view 4K videos through a non-PC mode HDMI input or hopefully streamed through Plex when it's available. If you've been watching 4K in PC Mode on a browser, you're not doing this TV justice. No wonder it doesn't look as good as my F8500. PC Mode is gimped mode for video.

Thanks for the info - I'll give that a try.

Love the helpful, informative posts... getting a bit tired of the rest (but that's just me!)
 
I can honestly say that the remote for the 6700 sucks. There's not even a mute button on the thing. There must be a profile on my Logitech Harmony remote that works with it, but I just don't know what it is.
 
OK, I just tested Youtube on SmartHub vs Youtube on a browser. Night and day difference in color, contrast, judder, etc. Youtube on SmartHub has all options turned on, which means SmartHub itself is its own input setting. Try it out and tell me if you're not impressed (just hit SmartHub regardless if you're on HDMI1 or not).

That means we need to be able to view 4K videos through a non-PC mode HDMI input or hopefully streamed through Plex when it's available. If you've been watching 4K in PC Mode on a browser, you're not doing this TV justice. No wonder it doesn't look as good as my F8500. PC Mode is gimped mode for video.

Interesting info, thanks for the share. On an unrelated note, it really bothers me that most of the app icons aren't high resolution lol.
 
My wife's 40" 6700 had that issue. From the manual I found you can re-pair the remote to the display - while pointing the remote at the remote sensor, hold down both the "Return/Exit" and "Extra" buttons for at least 3 seconds (I did 10 or so). Also, remove the batteries and re-insert them. This cleared up the issue for me.

Good luck and report back if that works or not.

Thanks, I eventually stumbled across the pairing diagram inside the remote under the battery cover. What threw me was it could power on/off the TV so the remote was working partially. I didn't realize it was a fancy BT remote. That's what I get for not reading the manual :)
 
I can honestly say that the remote for the 6700 sucks. There's not even a mute button on the thing. There must be a profile on my Logitech Harmony remote that works with it, but I just don't know what it is.

There is, on the side of the remote.
There is a crossed out speaker Icon - CC on the button.
 
I'm at the point where I think I'm going to be sending this 6700 and the coming 7500 back. I've been just surfing for an hour and a half and I've got a headache and feel a bit queezy, lol.

It HAS to be the PWM. I've tried every brightness setting known to man on this thing, in combination with every other setting and none of it works. This sucks. We can assume, if we haven't already verified, there will be no difference PWM-wise with the 7500. I will do any blur comparisons I can, but I think the PWM is bad enough I've gotta find a different display.

Sucks to be me cause I love this thing! Such a beautiful high-quality display in every other way.

When I take a step away, it's like a sigh of relief. When I get back in front of it, it all comes back. WTF did Samsung have to choose such a low PWM frequency???



I assume you got a 7100, not a 6500?

Try these settings to see if it is the PWM that is bothering you:

Set the back-light to 20 for minimum PWM
brightness to 60
sharpness to 50
contrast to 50 or lower (it can go down all the way to 1 if the screen is too bright). That pretty much eliminates the PWM.

Setting back light to lower then 20 will increase the PWM so don't do it if you are sensitive to it.
 
Since only a few people seemed to be affected and or confused about the PWM. Can someone post settings for the rest of us where the gd backlight is not set to an eye-searing 20?

Thanks in advance
 
Since only a few people seemed to be affected and or confused about the PWM. Can someone post settings for the rest of us where the gd backlight is not set to an eye-searing 20?

Thanks in advance

I'l be calibrating my set tomorrow and will post the settings/icc profile.


QA is stellar.



These are pretty good. Again, it's funny - there's about 8 different ways to get to what these settings show, and you basically end up in the same spot. I can have the backlight up near 6-7, but the contrast and brightness way down and get an almost identical picture. I'm convinced the Backlight setting actually isn't the backlight per se, but rather, every setting that's affects brightness in any way controls the backlight because there's next to no difference with the end result. JMO

Light output may be the same but contrast ratio will be much worse.
 
I have been using this display some more and I feel that I can not really keep using it as a PC monitor. My Benq will most likely go back on the desk and I will either use the TV in living room or send it back to the store.

I tried upping the backligt to 20 but I still felt fatigue and started getting headche after 40 min. So maybe the issue is both PWM and that the display is too bright. Benq is simply better for the eyes not only because it is PWM free but also because it has low blue light mode (reading mode).
 
that's sad news ...

when i saw the 48" model in store i couldn't notice any flickering or image instability... but that's maybe because the store was bright and the TV's brightness turned up. Now i can't wait to see the screen at home and check if i experience the same problems as both of you do :/
 
How's the QA on these, aside from the cracked screens? I don't think I've seen anyone complain about dead pixels or anything like that yet.

I haven't seen any dead pixels on this one. Though I did have that on my HU7250 65" intially. The first one had a row of dead pixels right through the middle of the screen that stopped about six inches shy of the left side.

So while I haven't seen any dead pixels on the one JU6700, I can say that there seems to be some issue with this and the Samsung's in general. Not just based on my experiences, but the general feedback from this thread. It could just be that these units are fragile and delivery of them must be handled carefully. I am not sure.
 
OK, I just tested Youtube on SmartHub vs Youtube on a browser. Night and day difference in color, contrast, judder, etc. Youtube on SmartHub has all options turned on, which means SmartHub itself is its own input setting. Try it out and tell me if you're not impressed (just hit SmartHub regardless if you're on HDMI1 or not).

That means we need to be able to view 4K videos through a non-PC mode HDMI input or hopefully streamed through Plex when it's available. If you've been watching 4K in PC Mode on a browser, you're not doing this TV justice. No wonder it doesn't look as good as my F8500. PC Mode is gimped mode for video.

I noticed this too using the Netflix option from the Smarthub.
 
Since only a few people seemed to be affected and or confused about the PWM. Can someone post settings for the rest of us where the gd backlight is not set to an eye-searing 20?

Thanks in advance

There's probably been 15+ listings of settings with lower backlight from folks in this thread. Not enough for ya?

I have been using this display some more and I feel that I can not really keep using it as a PC monitor. My Benq will most likely go back on the desk and I will either use the TV in living room or send it back to the store.

I tried upping the backligt to 20 but I still felt fatigue and started getting headche after 40 min. So maybe the issue is both PWM and that the display is too bright. Benq is simply better for the eyes not only because it is PWM free but also because it has low blue light mode (reading mode).

That sucks - sorry to hear it. I'll probably be returning as well. Going to give the 7500 an honest go this evening/weekend as its supposed to get here today. Hopefully give some real impressions on the ghosting/blurring differences.
 
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Hi guys, i also jumped on the bandwagon, and a 40" 7100 has just been ordered ... can't wait for it to ship :D

I'll be coming from a 30" Dell PLP setup, and i think i want to keep things that way with the new Samsung TV. A few rough calculations show that the 40" is at around 110 PPI, and the closest thing to that in portrait mode would be a 27" 1440p (at around 108 PPI). Sadly the 27" in portrait are a bit higher than the 40" (10 centimeters or so) ... so no perfect screen alignement as with the Dells unfortunately. :eek:

Now iirc the Samsung is a VA panel ... what 27"screens should i use in order to get a "match" with it? There don't seem to be many VA 27" 1440p out there, if any. Any ideas, suggestions?

Congrats on the new display! I understand about your desire to still do a PLP setup. The 40" is a harder one to match. Physically a good 24" (Dell U2415H, U2414H, S2415H) will match the physical height of the 40", but you are either stuck at a higher vertical resolution with the 1440p at 24" (which I would think would be a bit small) or you go with a 1920x1200 and have a smaller vertical resolution.

For my wife's setup with her 40" 6700, we are going with 1920x1200 for her PLP setup.

For my setup with my 48" 6700 I'm debating between stacked 23" 1080p displays (Dell u2414's with the top flipped) or going with a 27" 1440p like the Dell U2715H.

I think the biggest thing you can do for yourself coming from a perfectly match 20/30/20 PLP setup is to forget about using the side monitors as extensions of the main display and use the sides as alternate task displays - browser on one side, productivity app/media app, etc on the other side. That will take away the need for vertical pixel height matching and allow you to focus on functionality and physical uniformity (matching height, etc). Use something like DisplayFusion to do different background images.

Let's face it, 3840 main display resolution does not necessarily need to be extended - it can stand on it's own IMO.

Good luck and let me know what you decide to do.

-DC
 
Honestly - is the ju7500 worth it over the 6700? I have no where to look at either of these locally. Can I do a comparison using two different models?
 
For my wife's setup with her 40" 6700, we are going with 1920x1200 for her PLP setup.
-DC

Hi vorpel, thanks for the nice ideas, I have to admit you are quite right ... no real reason to have matching PPI.... even with the Dell PLP i started applications like foobar / chat windows / secondary browser (which is zoomable anyway) on the side panels.

I like the idea of using 1200p panels though, they are higher in PPI and nearly a perfect height match.
Then again, i could go for the nearly PPI matching 27" ...
or i could go completely bonkers and use the 24" 2160p for a glorious 24 megapixel setup... that way i could view my DSLR's pictures in 1:1 :D:D:D .. this might rather well as win 8.1 seems to be able to do different scaling per screen.

Now i got some nice ideas ... i think i will decide once the 40" arrives and then go crazy with PLP again :D
 
Hi vorpel, thanks for the nice ideas, I have to admit you are quite right ... no real reason to have matching PPI.... even with the Dell PLP i started applications like foobar / chat windows / secondary browser (which is zoomable anyway) on the side panels.

I like the idea of using 1200p panels though, they are higher in PPI and nearly a perfect height match.
Then again, i could go for the nearly PPI matching 27" ...
or i could go completely bonkers and use the 24" 2160p for a glorious 24 megapixel setup... that way i could view my DSLR's pictures in 1:1 :D:D:D .. this might rather well as win 8.1 seems to be able to do different scaling per screen.

Now i got some nice ideas ... i think i will decide once the 40" arrives and then go crazy with PLP again :D

Very cool! I've just started my searching but the Dell monitors (U2715H, U2415H, U2414H, P2415H). I like that they all seem to have a nice thin bezel. I need to also see what other display are out there that are similar.
 
mh, another crazy question.

right now my computer runs a Titan, and for now i am quite happy with it (fast enough fir Civ V, and most of my scampering in Davinci Resolve). Naturally, that card won't work well with the Samsung in 4:4:4.

Now, would it be possible to add a cheapo card like the gtx 960 to get access to HDMI2 and more displayports, and still use the Titan's grunt power? Would there be slowdowns?

or do i have to get a new card :rolleyes:
 
I don't see how anyone can stand having this display at a Backlight of 20.

Here are my current settings, if anyone wants to try them out. Brightness needs turned up for a few games, but you can usually do that from within the game:

Backlight: 3
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 45
Contrast: 50
Gamma: -3
Color Tone: Warm 2
HDMI Black Level: Low

These are with input labeled PC and UHD Color on, of course.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Since only a few people seemed to be affected and or confused about the PWM. Can someone post settings for the rest of us where the gd backlight is not set to an eye-searing 20?

Thanks in advance

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Try the settings above. They are about as close as I could get it to a good calibration without burning my retinas.

You will definitely have to adjust brightness/gamma from within some games that you play - but for desktop use, these are the best settings that I have found.


I used my Spyder calibrator on the monitor and it added a lot of Red to the picture, confirming that this screen is definitely on the cool side - even on Warm 2.

You can add this by changing your Red Gain level to about 6 or 7 in the White Balance menu, but I haven't messed with the other color levels to calibrate further as I like it with the settings above.

Also my 48-6500 starts showing some color shift in the corners (3.5' sitting distance) when I add the red gain. Someone with a 6700 may benefit from adding a little red and playing with the other colors, though.
 
mh, another crazy question.

right now my computer runs a Titan, and for now i am quite happy with it (fast enough fir Civ V, and most of my scampering in Davinci Resolve). Naturally, that card won't work well with the Samsung in 4:4:4.

Now, would it be possible to add a cheapo card like the gtx 960 to get access to HDMI2 and more displayports, and still use the Titan's grunt power? Would there be slowdowns?

or do i have to get a new card :rolleyes:

Is it confirmed that Titan X (I assume you meant the X) can't do 4:4:4? I find that difficult to believe that the latest card lacks HDMI 2.0 support.
 
Is it confirmed that Titan X (I assume you meant the X) can't do 4:4:4? I find that difficult to believe that the latest card lacks HDMI 2.0 support.

Actually i meant the old, first one :p the slow old geforce 700 generation one
 
I used my Spyder calibrator on the monitor and it added a lot of Red to the picture, confirming that this screen is definitely on the cool side - even on Warm 2.

You can add this by changing your Red Gain level to about 6 or 7 in the White Balance menu, but I haven't messed with the other color levels to calibrate further as I like it with the settings above.

Also my 48-6500 starts showing some color shift in the corners (3.5' sitting distance) when I add the red gain. Someone with a 6700 may benefit from adding a little red and playing with the other colors, though.

Yeah, I had to run red gain (and quite a bit of green gain) way up to even try n come close to my HP, on top of Warm2. Had them side by side with a test image spanning both. The native insanely cool temperature on the 6700 only exasperates fatigue issues (blinding whites) for those that are sensitive to it.
 
Sounds almost like you're describing blur, particularly the second part about the text becoming fuzzy when in motion. Keep in mind the pixel response of these panels, being VA, will probably be a little slower than your IPS BenQ.

What do you mean when you say the window shakes when you drag it around, though? Can you post a close-up vid of you dragging a window around so we can see what you're talking about?

I don't think you can see it well here but try to:

https://vid.me/nLyn

It's like blur or ghosting?
 
I don't think you can see it well here but try to:

https://vid.me/nLyn

It's like blur or ghosting?

It's ghosting/blur. Does the same for me. It's crazy slow on the [H] forum window. After you scroll one click, you can clearly see the pixels fade out - especially the high-contrast white text on black background. In BF4, the black/shady side of tress against a bright blue/white sky is even worse with even just minor single-pixel mouse movements.
Get a lot happening, or some explosions/vibration and it's gets pretty bad. I plug in my HP and it's smooth/fast again. Curious to see how much better the 7500 is - it's supposed to faster, I'll see how much faster soon.
 
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