New Samsung 4k for everyone.

WebMaximus said:
I'm shopping for a good 4K TV for my computer and I've found 2 models I'm particularly interested in.

UE48JU6515XXE
UE48JU6575XXE

These are both curved which confuses me reading the first post in this thread saying JU6500 models are supposed to be flat?

Also wondering if anyone can confirm the two models mentioned above are 4:4:4 capable suitable to be connected to a computer?
Click to expand...

The only 2015 models that are direct lit are the JS9500 series. All others are edge lit (including JU7500 and JS7000)

The models you are listing are not NA models. The "JU6500" is the north american model:

http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN40JU6500FXZA
http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN48JU6500FXZA
 
I have a bunch of non-geek friends coming over to play cards tomorrow and I want to impress them with my new 48JS9000

Unfortunately they were supposed to come at the end of the month and by coming early I have not yet had time to upgrade my PC. I am sitting here with two overclocked GTX 680s in SLI.

Yes, I know I'm only getting HDMI 1.4 but they don't! I am currently in PC mode since lag doesn't matter. With the following settings

Input says PC HDMI UHD COLOR
At first I just selected device type as PC and the display screen listed UHD. l then turned the HDMI UHD Color mode to On for the HDMI port which my PC is connected. For some reason after I made that change Win7 is saying my recommended resolution is 1920 x 1080 and NOT 3840 x 2160. Before I turned that on 3840 x 2160 was the recommended resolution. Strangely the screen displayed UHD even before I made the switch to UHD in "picture option". Is this because I'm not using HDMI 2.0?

Here are my other settinghs.
Backlight: 10
Contrast: 80
Brightness: 63
Sharpness: 50
Gamma:0
HDMI Black Level: Auto/Low

I am also playing Sleeping Dogs at 1920 x 1080 with settings at Ultra and the screen has been scaling it to fit the full screen and it looks great!

Any other advice?

Thanks!
 
Just picked up 40" Samsung un40ju6500, looks great in 4k but if your a fps shooter the input lag is horrible. Going to give it a few days then might return it. Running a 980ti at 60hz. Anybody wanna share all they did to set it up? I set TV hdmi1 to pc, turned color uhd on, set at 60hz.
 
goldpok said:
This whole limited vs full discussion seems to be getting a bit out of whack.

I agree with Ziran and a few other posters, but I guess the terminology used in this technology could be causing confusion to what some people get to expect.

Might be best to just leave it at whatever looks best to you, as otherwise even after I see it properly explained a few times, it seems like it is going to be a never-ending discussion.

From my previous experience around this topic, I think the only advice here I would give is to try and make sure you match the output (video card setting) to input (TV setting), basically any of these combos should be fine.

- Card:YBCBr, TV (grayed out) - I will not go into details what the TV selects here
- Card Limited, TV Low
- Card Full, TV Normal

If you find that any of these combinations looks much different than the others (I don't and don't see why), just select what you think looks best to you.

Heck, if you find the mismatch combos look better to you, e.g.
- Card Full / TV Low
- Card Limited / TV Normal
by all means, you should be using what looks best to you anyway

No point in trying to spec new tech documents here :)
Click to expand...

Do not disagree with using the settings that look best to you.

However, the combos that you did not mention are TV Auto/ Card Full and TV Auto/ Card Limited. The discrepancies occur if you assume Auto really means Auto.
 
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snipes23 said:
Just picked up 40" Samsung un40ju6500, looks great in 4k but if your a fps shooter the input lag is horrible. Going to give it a few days then might return it. Running a 980ti at 60hz. Anybody wanna share all they did to set it up? I set TV hdmi1 to pc, turned color uhd on, set at 60hz.
Click to expand...

Use game mode.
 
I bought a un40ju6500 at Best Buy. I had to go right back to the store to return it. The LCD screen was completely messed up with black ink blotches and no picture. I went back and made them open another one in the store and turn it on before I took it home. This one seems okay. Moral of the story is that these things can come in defective. I don't remember how long it has been since I had an issue like that.
 
snipes23 said:
Just picked up 40" Samsung un40ju6500, looks great in 4k but if your a fps shooter the input lag is horrible. Going to give it a few days then might return it. Running a 980ti at 60hz. Anybody wanna share all they did to set it up? I set TV hdmi1 to pc, turned color uhd on, set at 60hz.
Click to expand...

I just ordered one - any negatives besides input lag? I don't play FPS so that's not something I'm concerned with.
 
cstu said:
I just ordered one - any negatives besides input lag? I don't play FPS so that's not something I'm concerned with.
Click to expand...

Besides FPS it great. I still play BF4 to a high level on this, some adjustments in timing are required but the body quickly adapts.
For everything else, you will enjoy this TV.
 
Hmm, yeah I play fps games mostly, and I was in the process of saving for a 40" Ju7500 but it's comments like snipes that makes me 2nd guess.:confused:
 
snipes23 said:
Just picked up 40" Samsung un40ju6500, looks great in 4k but if your a fps shooter the input lag is horrible. Going to give it a few days then might return it. Running a 980ti at 60hz. Anybody wanna share all they did to set it up? I set TV hdmi1 to pc, turned color uhd on, set at 60hz.
Click to expand...

Input lag should be a stellar 24ms, so you must have it set up wrong.

I know it is difficult to find specific information like this in a several hundred page long thread (wish it could be stickied at the top) but what I am noting below has been mentioned MANY times in this thread.

To enable game mode you'll want to first go to your hdmi1 source, press down to get to the menu, then change input type to "game"

After this, go to the main menu, down to settings, and advanced, (I think) and in there there is an option that says game mode. Enable it.

The default picture settings for game mode are awful. You can do a lot to fix them by simply turning down sharpness to 0 in picture settings. For some reason a sharpness of 0 in game mode is the same as a sharpness of 50 in PC mode.

You only have to do this setup once. After the first time, simply switch back and forth by going to source, down for the menu and choosing PC mode or game mode, and it remembers all your settings for each independently.

I agree, the initial set up to get it working right is obnoxious, but once you have it set up it is great.

You will want to switch back and forth between game mode and pc mode as pc mode has rather bad lag for fps games, and game mode doesn't look great on the desktop.

At some point in the future you might note that these settings have been reset again. It happens. Even the smallest changes can make the TV think you have a new input device and it will start a new settings profile, you need to set again.

This happened most recently for me when I switched from RGB mode to YCBR mode. The screen forgot all my game.mode settings and I had to do it over.
 
wikidlad said:
Hmm, yeah I play fps games mostly, and I was in the process of saving for a 40" Ju7500 but it's comments like snipes that makes me 2nd guess.:confused:
Click to expand...

See above.

I play exclusively FPS shooters, and these TV's have better input lag than either of the flat panels I have owned since moving away from CRT's

So, better than my 2005 Dell 2405FPW, And better than my 2010 Dell U3011.

Before 2005 I used a 78lb 22" Iiyama Vision Master Pro 510. That thing made my desk bend, but it was huge for its time, suppirted high res and refresh for its time and had no input lag.
 
Game mode which looks amazing is only 20ms or something like that, extremely low latency. You can play ANY GAME on this display. The performance depends how how powerful your video card(s) are.

There are so many new people coming over to the 40" and 48" 4k Samsungs because of it's awesome picture and build quality that there is still a lot of misinformation going around.
 
SixFootDuo said:
Game mode which looks amazing is only 20ms or something like that, extremely low latency. You can play ANY GAME on this display. The performance depends how how powerful your video card(s) are.

There are so many new people coming over to the 40" and 48" 4k Samsungs because of it's awesome picture and build quality that there is still a lot of misinformation going around.
Click to expand...

Yep, the only thing you miss out on compared to some screens are refresh rates greater than 60hz, and FreeSync/Gsync.

For me, that isn't a problem, I am very happy vsyncing at 60fps, but if you feel you need higher refresh rate or one of those dynamic refresh rate solutions, then that would be the only reason to choose anything else.

The lag in game mode is astonishingly low, and game mode looks great in every game I've tried.
 
Ziran said:
This image is the best 4:4:4 test on Samsung TV I found (the old Fox jumped over image is good for testing 4:2:0 vs 4:4:4 but not as good for distinguishing 4:2:2: vs 4:4:4)

http://i4.minus.com/ibyJcwdIniHUEs.png

Make sure you view it 100% size (or full screen). It does not work if it is scaled down to smaller size.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by "full screen" ? This image is tiny, 960x720 If I view the image with no scaling it does not fill the screen at 4K 3840 x 2160 Is that the correct way to view it?
 
Zarathustra[H];1041724962 said:
The lag in game mode is astonishingly low, and game mode looks great in every game I've tried.
Click to expand...
Hi, I wonder if you can help me with my 65JU7500.


1. When I'm editing Photos, I use Source Device Type = PC for the clarity/4:4:4 picture detail. Uber happy with this stunning display :)


2. When I switch to Full Game mode (Source Device Type = Game and System>General>Game Mode = On) and play games e.g. DiRT Rally, Witcher 3 and and ArmA3, there is an awful lot of judder/motion blur, particularly when turning quickly, the background objects blur the worst.


3. With Source Device Type = Game and AMP on 'clear' and System>General>Game Mode = off, this judder/blur just disappears.


Maybe I'm sensitive to it or maybe (and I suspect) I am missing a key setting... I've tried to follow the advice here, but there is a lot of advice and conflicting settings and settings not for the 7500 specifically.


I'm probably too old to notice input lag between the points 2 and 3, but would like to benefit as much as I can from the display and get the best from it in all situations.


Any help appreciated!
 
MrPix said:
Hi, I wonder if you can help me with my 65JU7500.


1. When I'm editing Photos, I use Source Device Type = PC for the clarity/4:4:4 picture detail. Uber happy with this stunning display :)


2. When I switch to Full Game mode (Source Device Type = Game and System>General>Game Mode = On) and play games e.g. DiRT Rally, Witcher 3 and and ArmA3, there is an awful lot of judder/motion blur, particularly when turning quickly, the background objects blur the worst.


3. With Source Device Type = Game and AMP on 'clear' and System>General>Game Mode = off, this judder/blur just disappears.

Maybe I'm sensitive to it or maybe (and I suspect) I am missing a key setting... I've tried to follow the advice here, but there is a lot of advice and conflicting settings and settings not for the 7500 specifically.


I'm probably too old to notice input lag between the points 2 and 3, but would like to benefit as much as I can from the display and get the best from it in all situations.


Any help appreciated!
Click to expand...

It is possible you are sensitive to it, or this could be a difference between your JU7500 and my JS9000. I will let someone with JU7500 experience respond here, as I am not 100% certain.

While these panels are all very similar, there are some differences between them.
 
DF-1 said:
any way to make ju6500 work with surface pro 2?
Click to expand...

To get full 4:4:4 chroma at 60hz 4k resolution you will need a HDMI 2.0 port. Right now that means GeForce 9xx series or bust. Nothing else has them today.

You will be able to get output on the screen using a mini DP to HDMI adapter, but your resolutions / refresh rates will be limited.

There is a table on microsofts webpage which shows what you can expect.

At 4 K resolution the best you can expect is 30hz if you have a model with an i5 or i7 CPU. Lower CPU and you max out at 24hz

You can output lower resolutions at higher refresh rates though, and have them up-sampled.

I personally tried using the desktop at 30hz on mine before I got my 980Ti's, but I didn't much care for it. It felt laggy and weird.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041725178 said:
To get full 4:4:4 chroma at 60hz 4k resolution you will need a HDMI 2.0 port. Right now that means GeForce 9xx series or bust. Nothing else has them today.

You will be able to get output on the screen using a mini DP to HDMI adapter, but your resolutions / refresh rates will be limited.

There is a table on microsofts webpage which shows what you can expect.

At 4 K resolution the best you can expect is 30hz if you have a model with an i5 or i7 CPU. Lower CPU and you max out at 24hz

You can output lower resolutions at higher refresh rates though, and have them up-sampled.

I personally tried using the desktop at 30hz on mine before I got my 980Ti's, but I didn't much care for it. It felt laggy and weird.
Click to expand...

i know that 4:4:4/60/4k isnt probably happening.

but im not getting anything at all to display. i've tried 3 of the hdmi ports and 2 dvi to hdmi things. I've tried messing with settings (renaming things), nothing seemed to work.
 
mkia said:
Do not disagree with using the settings that look best to you.

However, the combos that you did not mention are TV Auto/ Card Full and TV Auto/ Card Limited. The discrepancies occur if you assume Auto really means Auto.
Click to expand...

Auto in practice always winds up being the same as HDMI black level low (limited)

Good:
TV auto/Card Limited

Bad:
TV auto/Card Full
 
Hi,

Quick question from a prospective buyer. Does anyone have an actual contrast ratio measurement (checkerboard with dimming turned off) for the curved (European UE version) JS8500? Preferably the 48" model.

I'm asking because I'm seeing conflicting numbers in reviews - this one (UN 55") claims it's 3560:1 (106.8/0.030), but this one (UE 55") claims it's 1884:1 (130/0.069) and this one (UE 55") claims it's 2069:1 (120/0.058). The latter two are worrying numbers for a VA panel.
 
edechamps said:
Hi,

Quick question from a prospective buyer. Does anyone have an actual contrast ratio measurement (checkerboard with dimming turned off) for the curved (European UE version) JS8500? Preferably the 48" model.

I'm asking because I'm seeing conflicting numbers in reviews - this one (UN 55") claims it's 3560:1 (106.8/0.030), but this one (UE 55") claims it's 1884:1 (130/0.069) and this one (UE 55") claims it's 2069:1 (120/0.058). The latter two are worrying numbers for a VA panel.
Click to expand...

Don't have any way to measure - sorry.

My advice is to go look at the TV in person and/or purchase it from a retailer that has a good return policy. It is way too easy to get hung up on a spec when it really comes down to whether or not the TV blows you away and you find yourself really wanting to use it a lot (or all the time!)
 
Zarathustra[H];1041724754 said:
Input lag should be a stellar 24ms, so you must have it set up wrong.
Click to expand...
Just offering some data on this. 24ms (or 26.5ms, going by Rtings' hardware-based measurements) is acceptable latency. In fact it's more or less the latency of the TV I'm currently staring at.

Unfortunately, in PC mode - which is what we may as well label the 4:4:4 mode that doesn't discard half of the color info - none of this year's Samsungs, or any other 4K TV I've heard of for that matter, perform adequately. This JU6500, for example, drops to 48ms, which is unacceptable. Also unacceptable would be to suggest that one swap modes whenever they decide to play a game. Those 3 frames of latency affect the mouse pointer too, after all.

The closest thing 2015 has to a display that I might have considered buying is the Philips 40 inch monitor. Unfortunately, 40 inches is a downgrade from what I currently have. So I'll just see what 2016 has to offer. It's a shame. There is zero reason why there should be all of that latency when the TV's only job is to give the user the image it's getting over HDMI. The Philips monitor does simply that, and its latency is something like 8ms.
 
Asterra said:
Just offering some data on this. 24ms (or 26.5ms, going by Rtings' hardware-based measurements) is acceptable latency. In fact it's more or less the latency of the TV I'm currently staring at.

Unfortunately, in PC mode - which is what we may as well label the 4:4:4 mode that doesn't discard half of the color info - none of this year's Samsungs, or any other 4K TV I've heard of for that matter, perform adequately. This JU6500, for example, drops to 48ms, which is unacceptable. Also unacceptable would be to suggest that one swap modes whenever they decide to play a game. Those 3 frames of latency affect the mouse pointer too, after all.

The closest thing 2015 has to a display that I might have considered buying is the Philips 40 inch monitor. Unfortunately, 40 inches is a downgrade from what I currently have. So I'll just see what 2016 has to offer. It's a shame. There is zero reason why there should be all of that latency when the TV's only job is to give the user the image it's getting over HDMI. The Philips monitor does simply that, and its latency is something like 8ms.
Click to expand...

It's a TV, which means it has a lot more image processing than a standard PC monitor.
The 4:4:4 is handled by internal processing.A standard PC monitor doesn't have that.

I know monitors are just a way to display the video, so TVs and monitors are the same technically, but we bought TVs to be used as PC monitors.
 
Switching works fine for me.

The color reduction in game mode is not noticeable in any title I have tried.

The 48ms in PC mode is noticeable, but perfectly useable to me without any annoyance in desktop apps.

I am very happy switching back and forth when I play games.
 
Dang, that's really tempting. I'm sitting on a 3008wfp, but I've been wanting to go bigger, thats a nice deal.
 
edechamps said:
Hi,

Quick question from a prospective buyer. Does anyone have an actual contrast ratio measurement (checkerboard with dimming turned off) for the curved (European UE version) JS8500? Preferably the 48" model.

I'm asking because I'm seeing conflicting numbers in reviews - this one (UN 55") claims it's 3560:1 (106.8/0.030), but this one (UE 55") claims it's 1884:1 (130/0.069) and this one (UE 55") claims it's 2069:1 (120/0.058). The latter two are worrying numbers for a VA panel.
Click to expand...

I don't have quite the same TV, but might be somewhat related. I have a JU7100 at home, and happen to have a i1 Display Pro I rented. What I find is the contrast will change based on how you calibrate the TV and what backlight setting you use.

I find when calibrated at backlight of 14 without crushing black, the black level obtained was about 0.065, I left my contrast quite high, for a luminance of ~155 cd/m2, for an ON/OFF contrast of ~2380 and used it like this for a few days,

Just for kicks now, I dropped my backlight to 5, (had to increase contrast setting up to 100, and even so white luminance I got is about 94 cd/m2, but black level is now 0.026 cd/m2. Contrast ratio reported is now around 3600-3700.

VKHliYi.png


Though, while the black level here is good, luminance at white suffers.

To get luminance to at last 120 cd/m2, I had to bump up backlight to at least 7.
This way I got white at 123 cd/m2, black at 0.034 cd/m2, and contrast ratio still in the range of ~3650.

Qlsszkz.png


Obviously at these settings you will have to deal with PWM, if that is something that bothers you. There have been some useful links and info posted about PWM a few pages back.

Not sure about the JS8500, but I would expect it may behave similarly. If you go to the settings section for the JS8500 in that first link of yours:
http://www.rtings.com/reviews/tv/lcd-led/samsung/js8500/settings
You will see they used a backlight setting of 5, hence why probably the higher contrast.

As far as disappointing for VA, I guess that is subjective, based on what your expectations are or how you look at it. If you are looking for the VA panel with the best contrast, you could maybe find it elsewhere.

For me so far I was using it at ~2400 and am still very happy with the picture, and consider I recently had to part with my (to me a still very dear) plasma TV (PN51F5300)

The picture is miles ahead from the last TN panel I had, and arguably at least for me I enjoy this TV better than the last Benq BL3201PH IPS monitor I used to have. As far as I remember It had much worse contrast ratio and black level ... but yes better color reproduction, better viewing angles, then again bad glow .. terrible blacks .. blah blah .. etc .. same old debate. :) To be honest, I didn't hate that IPS, I'll go to say that I liked it, picture was nice, 4k resolution, reason I returned is could not use 4K on a 32" screen size. That said, 40" for me works (48 might be even better), and plus I get better blacks, win / win situation.

Anyway, hope this helps.
 
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Zarathustra[H];1041725178 said:
To get full 4:4:4 chroma at 60hz 4k resolution you will need a HDMI 2.0 port. Right now that means GeForce 9xx series or bust. Nothing else has them today.

You will be able to get output on the screen using a mini DP to HDMI adapter, but your resolutions / refresh rates will be limited.

There is a table on microsofts webpage which shows what you can expect.

At 4 K resolution the best you can expect is 30hz if you have a model with an i5 or i7 CPU. Lower CPU and you max out at 24hz

You can output lower resolutions at higher refresh rates though, and have them up-sampled.

I personally tried using the desktop at 30hz on mine before I got my 980Ti's, but I didn't much care for it. It felt laggy and weird.
Click to expand...


Looking at that chart it shows the the Surface Pro (2 or 3) can output "Up to 3840 x 2160" at 60hz.
 
Asterra said:
Just offering some data on this. 24ms (or 26.5ms, going by Rtings' hardware-based measurements) is acceptable latency. In fact it's more or less the latency of the TV I'm currently staring at.

Unfortunately, in PC mode - which is what we may as well label the 4:4:4 mode that doesn't discard half of the color info - none of this year's Samsungs, or any other 4K TV I've heard of for that matter, perform adequately. This JU6500, for example, drops to 48ms, which is unacceptable. Also unacceptable would be to suggest that one swap modes whenever they decide to play a game. Those 3 frames of latency affect the mouse pointer too, after all.

The closest thing 2015 has to a display that I might have considered buying is the Philips 40 inch monitor. Unfortunately, 40 inches is a downgrade from what I currently have. So I'll just see what 2016 has to offer. It's a shame. There is zero reason why there should be all of that latency when the TV's only job is to give the user the image it's getting over HDMI. The Philips monitor does simply that, and its latency is something like 8ms.
Click to expand...

Well here's hoping Sammy's new JS7000 series can change the game and give us low input lag while in 4:4:4 mode. Probably not gonna happen but hey it would be very nice if it does. Or they could just release a new firmware for all their series that does that.
 
Just a question, guys : before i do the firmware update, how can i find out the changelog ?
Another question :)
Is it worth to buy some hardware calibrator ? I do like the colors and the picture quality, but i wonder if the calibrator will improve it.
Thank you
 
DF-1 said:
i know that 4:4:4/60/4k isnt probably happening.

but im not getting anything at all to display. i've tried 3 of the hdmi ports and 2 dvi to hdmi things. I've tried messing with settings (renaming things), nothing seemed to work.
Click to expand...

That is odd.

Have you tried with a different device?

The screen has displayed everything I've plugged into it thus far. Something is wrong here.
 
Zarathustra[H];1041727674 said:
That is odd.

Have you tried with a different device?

The screen has displayed everything I've plugged into it thus far. Something is wrong here.
Click to expand...

ps3 and chromecast both work.

sometimes i get a black screen on the TV or surface pro (or both) when i plug it in.

I tried extended display, duplicate, 2nd screen only.. It worked on my last TV from 2011.
 
Two questions

Is there any way to get the TV to default to a bluetooth speaker output on start-up? I have to go into settings and reconnect to the paired device every time.

Second, in the built in player for movies is there a way to change/enable/disable subtitles?
 
Last edited:
DF-1 said:
ps3 and chromecast both work.

sometimes i get a black screen on the TV or surface pro (or both) when i plug it in.

I tried extended display, duplicate, 2nd screen only.. It worked on my last TV from 2011.
Click to expand...

That is very strange.

And the Surface displays on other external screens?

This may sound dumb, but try a different HDMI cable. These TV's can be rather sensitive to HDMI cables, otherwise I don't know what to suggest.

Does it not detect the screen at all, or does it see that it is connected, but you get nothing on the screen?
 
Zarathustra[H];1041728025 said:
That is very strange.

And the Surface displays on other external screens?

This may sound dumb, but try a different HDMI cable. These TV's can be rather sensitive to HDMI cables, otherwise I don't know what to suggest.

Does it not detect the screen at all, or does it see that it is connected, but you get nothing on the screen?
Click to expand...

It displayed fine on other screens.

i used my usual mini displayport to hdmi cable, and a new converter from DP to HDMI that needs an actual hdmi cable between them, they both didnt work.

I think it sort of detects the screen because they both go black when i plug it in.
 
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