New PC Build won’t turn on after going to sleep

Pdagger

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I just recently finished building a PC. Everything seemed to work fine until tonight. I had Windows 10 installed and was up and running. Last night I locked the PC and it was set to go to sleep after an hour IIRC. This evening when I tried turning it on, nothing happens. I tried moving and clicking the mouse, hitting keys on the keyboard, and of course pressing the power button. Nada.

The motherboard has power. It’s an MSI X570 Godlike. There is a power button on the motherboard next to a power boost dial. The power button and boost dial are glowing red, so I know there is power to it.

Other things I’ve tried are unplugging it for a minute or two, cleared the CMOS with the jumper, checked all the power connections to make sure they are tight. It just won’t power on. Other than the mentioned red glowing buttons on the motherboard it acts as if it’s completely dead.

Any ideas on what’s wrong or what else I should check?
 

zandor

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Do the lights switch to on mode and it just doesn't respond, or do they keep looking like the machine is sleeping? I'm not talking about rgb stuff, mostly just the power LED on the case plugged into the header with the power switch, HDD activity, etc.

I've had a problem like this many times with NV drivers. Try to wake the machine up and the power LED flips to "on" mode but nothing else happens. No video, etc. Goes to sleep and won't come out of it entirely.
 

Pdagger

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No lights turn on at all. The only lights that come on are the power button on the motherboard and the performance dial next to it. They turn on as soon as I plug the power cord into the power supply. Pressing the power switch on the case does absolutely nothing. Pressing the power button on the motherboard does absolutely nothing. I’ve also tried holding them down and nothing happens.
 

Pdagger

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These are the only lights I get as soon as I plug in the power supply.

Also, I just finished re-seating the CPU, RAM, video card, and power connections. Still nothing.

94925A51-1750-4A7F-97F8-8FAEAD058E2F.jpeg
 
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pendragon1

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have you tried unplugging the front panel button and then pressing the mobo's power button?
can you also give us the specs?
 

Pdagger

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have you tried unplugging the front panel button and then pressing the mobo's power button?
can you also give us the specs?

Just tried that and still nothing.

Case: Phanteks P500A
Motherboard: MSI X570 Godlike
CPU: AMD 5800X
Cooler: Liquid Freezer II 280
RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 128GB (4 x 32GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 4000 (PC4 32000) Intel XMP 2.0 Desktop Memory Model F4-4000C18D-64GTZR
GPU: MSI RTX3090 Suprim X
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 1200w Platinum
HDD: 2 x Samsung 980 Pro M.2 2280 1TB
OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

I should add that I haven’t tried to do any OCing yet.
 

pendragon1

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k. bring it down to the minimum, board, chip, 1 stick of ram, no m.2s, just the aio, no rgb connected, no extra fans. yank the power plug and battery then hit the mobo power button a couple times and let it sit for a couple minutes. put the battery in and try powering it up.

another thing to try is yank all the power connectors and then try jump starting the psu by bridging the green wire and any of the black wires with a paperclip. see if it fires up.

and then if that gets you know where, yank it out of the case and try with just the minimums.
 

Pdagger

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k. bring it down to the minimum, board, chip, 1 stick of ram, no m.2s, just the aio, no rgb connected, no extra fans. yank the power plug and battery then hit the mobo power button a couple times and let it sit for a couple minutes. put the battery in and try powering it up.
Ok, did this part except yanking the battery. Still nothing. Where is the battery on this mobo? I don’t see one and none of the plastic covers look like they are meant to be removed?
another thing to try is yank all the power connectors and then try jump starting the psu by bridging the green wire and any of the black wires with a paperclip. see if it fires up.

and then if that gets you know where, yank it out of the case and try with just the minimums.
Not exactly sure what you mean by this. Bridging wires sounds dangerous. Can you elaborate a bit?
 

zandor

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Looking over your post... oops. I interpreted it as the machine wouldn't wake up from sleep and you were trying to reset everything. Hard reset, clear CMOS, etc. are things I'd try if it wouldn't wake up from sleep. Won't turn on at all is a totally different problem. I'd offer some advice but I'd mostly just be repeating what pendragon1 already said.

One thing I will add is check PSU voltage with a multimeter. I'm not the guy to ask about debugging PSU problems. ~28 years of screwing around with PCs and I've never had one pop on me. Lots of HDs, a few mobos, but never a PSU. I did have a fan go out back around 2000 or so, but the PSU was fine after replacing it.
 

Pdagger

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Yeah, I’m not sure if it is related to sleep mode. I’m pretty sure I had it set to go into sleep mode after 30min or 1hr. It might have still been at whatever the default win10 setting is. In any case, I locked the PC when I went to bed last night, assume it went into sleep mode, and when I got home from work tonight it was off (Or in sleep?), and it just won’t turn on.
 

Nobu

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I don't see it (the battery) in the manual, which is absurd, but it should be under the shroud somewhere. I'd check by the rear IO first.
 

pendragon1

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Ok, did this part except yanking the battery. Still nothing. Where is the battery on this mobo? I don’t see one and none of the plastic covers look like they are meant to be removed?

Not exactly sure what you mean by this. Bridging wires sounds dangerous. Can you elaborate a bit?
i bet its behind the gpu but rtfm to double check. edit: or maybe the fan section, since the clear jumper is in the lower right.
on the 24pin mobo connector, if you bridge the green wire "on" wire with any othe black ground wires it turns the psu on. to make sure its powers up on its own. its not dangerous and some psus come with a like attachment to do it for priming water loops.
 
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Pdagger

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I don't see it (the battery) in the manual, which is absurd, but it should be under the shroud somewhere. I'd check by the rear IO first.
I know right? You think that would be in there. Looking to see if I can carefully remove one of these plastic covers to find it...
 

Pdagger

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i couldnt find it there either or in any pic on bing search...
Yeah and gently prodding some of these plastic covers doesn’t give me confidence I won’t break something. Seems ridiculous not to have that in the manual.

I hate to say it, but I only have so much time. Got an appointment scheduled with BB geek squad tomorrow, so I may just give it to them to deal with if the checks on the PSU don’t show anything.
 

zandor

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Lights are coming on, so there is some kind of voltage. PSUs are one or the more common points of failure (despite me being lucky with them personally), so it's worth checking voltages before taking the machine to Geek Squad or doing an RMA. While I have personally skated, I've seen plenty of PSUs blow up at work. Also lots of HDs, boards, and ram. I'm just not the guy that deals with them. I'm a software engineer, so if a box at work goes boom I just make a ticket and call someone if I'm in a hurry.

I bought a couple Seasonics last fall and both of them came with a test plug. Just stick it on the 24-pin connector and the PSU turns on. They do they same thing as bridging the "green" wire to a ground though. On that note, neither of them had a green wire. All wires were black. As a member of the "prime and spray the window if you can't find an all metal case you like or get a steel side panel as a spare part" club, this annoys me. So now you need a wiring diagram, have to count pins, and hope you don't screw it up if you want to jump start a PSU without one of those test plugs. I want the color coded wires back.
 

Pdagger

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Just tested the PSU and it started up fine. Plugged it back into the system and no go. I still get the same lights on the power switch and dial from the picture I posted above.

Does that mean it’s likely the motherboard?
 

pendragon1

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Lights are coming on, so there is some kind of voltage. PSUs are one or the more common points of failure (despite me being lucky with them personally), so it's worth checking voltages before taking the machine to Geek Squad or doing an RMA. While I have personally skated, I've seen plenty of PSUs blow up at work. Also lots of HDs, boards, and ram. I'm just not the guy that deals with them. I'm a software engineer, so if a box at work goes boom I just make a ticket and call someone if I'm in a hurry.

I bought a couple Seasonics last fall and both of them came with a test plug. Just stick it on the 24-pin connector and the PSU turns on. They do they same thing as bridging the "green" wire to a ground though. On that note, neither of them had a green wire. All wires were black. As a member of the "prime and spray the window if you can't find an all metal case you like or get a steel side panel as a spare part" club, this annoys me. So now you need a wiring diagram, have to count pins, and hope you don't screw it up if you want to jump start a PSU without one of those test plugs. I want the color coded wires back.
yeah i agree, give it more time here before BB...
ah crap all black wires are a good point. op, check in the box for a 24pin plug thing. or with the clip on top the 3rd and 4th wires from the right are what you want.

1614313596335.png
 

pendragon1

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Yep, tested that and the PSU started fine.
yeah i was typin while you were and didnt see until after i hit post. since youre headin toward a possible rma of something, tear it all apart, out of the case and short the clear cmos jumper and let it sit over night.
 

drutman

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This is why I do not use sleep or hibernate mode on my PC or laptops, I have had issues of it not waking up when mouse or key is pressed, seems to be software related. I use screensaver during the day and power down when retiring at night. The wear and tear is non existent IMHO, no need to sleep or hibernate.
 

Pdagger

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Yeah, I will definitely be disabling that once I get this fixed. Windows defaults to having it on and I just hadn't had a chance to really get everything set up the way I wanted before this happened. That being said, I'm not sure that sleep mode would cause this. I would think that resetting the BIOS and removing the hard drives would at least get it to boot into the BIOS, but I'm literally getting nothing happening. No fans turning on, no lights turning on (beyond the power button on the mobo that is already on as soon as I plug in the PSU). It just acts completely dead.

I also left the cmos jumper on overnight and it's still dead. I cancelled the BB appointment as I don't think they will be able to tell me anything I don't already know. I'm going to contact MSI today and see if they will RMA the mobo. That seems like the most likely thing, but I really don't know for sure.
 

Pdagger

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I called MSI today and the guy I talked to thinks it's the motherboard. So, back it goes. :(
 

Libnok

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I would tear it down down completely and rebuilt it, pulling the chip, reseating everything. Then as pendragon1 suggests, just add the bare minimum. You need to remove it from the case and bench test it. You never know if there is a short somewhere. Also, make sure none of the switches are stuck on the back, cmos/flash buttons. Also along those lines, see if you can revert/flash the bios. Some motherboards allow for this even without having to enter the bios. I'm not too familiar with MSI though.
 

Pdagger

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Well, seeing as how it won't be able to go out until Monday, that will give me the weekend to keep trying things.
 

Pdagger

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I just talked with MSI again because I forgot to ask where the battery is. The guy didn't know. LOL. He said shorting the jbat jumper would do the same thing, as well as pushing the clear cmos button on the back by all the I/O's. I've tried both and no luck. Tonight I'm pulling it out of the case and rebuilding it to a minimum outside the case and will recheck.
 

Pdagger

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Well, it’s not the motherboard. Took it out of the case, only had one stick of RAM in it, no cpu, no gpu, just the motherboard 24-pin connector connected to the PSU and it powered up. So, now I guess I will add it to the case, try again and then add components one at a time.
 

pendragon1

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Well, it’s not the motherboard. Took it out of the case, only had one stick of RAM in it, no cpu, no gpu, just the motherboard 24-pin connector connected to the PSU and it powered up. So, now I guess I will add it to the case, try again and then add components one at a time.
no, not yet. get it all working outside first.
 

Pdagger

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Well, lesson learned. It was the CPU. As soon as I installed the CPU into the socket it wouldn't start, even with the power cables for the CPU unplugged.

I had used Conductanaught on the CPU and I believe some of it slowly dripped and shorted something in the CPU socket as the case sat upright overnight.

So, with some careful application of q-tips, acetone, a full face respirator, and compressed air, I believe I was able to get any of it off the CPU pins and out of the motherboard socket. After that I switched to a non-conductive paste and it started right up and I'm back in business.

I should have checked and realized that Conductanaught was conductive and been more careful with it. I'm actually kind of surprised it didn't permanently kill something and that I was able to fix it.
 

Pdagger

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Thanks for believing me so I didn't waste my time with BB or an RMA lol! :D

Seriously, I appreciate the help.
 

Libnok

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There is little need to use a conductive thermal solution unless you're doing sub-zero overclocking. So very little to gain, and so much to lose if mistakes are made. Also, in the future, when describing an issue, you should include outlying situations such as using conductive pastes. If you had mentioned that front the beginning, it would have been a red flag. Not that it took all that much time to resolve in this instance.

But, congrats for getting your rig going.
 

robijito123

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Is that EVGA SuperNOVA 1200w Platinum a p2 or a first gen psu... it may not have the proper idle voltages for the board... or you can look at the sleep setting in the bios maybe try changing to s3 or what ever options are in there, if you have not already packed it up. I had a similar issue with a mitx build with a ecs board, where turns out the psu did not have what ever haswell voltage things changed. I ended up just leaving the pc on and having the speed stuff drop as low as possible. You probably would not waste a ton of power just letting the thing idle.
 

Pdagger

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It's the P2 version of the PSU. In hindsight, I don't think sleep had anything to do with it. I think it went to sleep, then some conductanaught dripped down on the CPU pins and/or socket and shorted something, which kept it from turning on again.
 

DWD1961

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Well, lesson learned. It was the CPU. As soon as I installed the CPU into the socket it wouldn't start, even with the power cables for the CPU unplugged.

I had used Conductanaught on the CPU and I believe some of it slowly dripped and shorted something in the CPU socket as the case sat upright overnight.

So, with some careful application of q-tips, acetone, a full face respirator, and compressed air, I believe I was able to get any of it off the CPU pins and out of the motherboard socket. After that I switched to a non-conductive paste and it started right up and I'm back in business.

I should have checked and realized that Conductanaught was conductive and been more careful with it. I'm actually kind of surprised it didn't permanently kill something and that I was able to fix it.
I'd run it though a stress test for 12 hours still. Burn it is really good. Good trouble shooting man.
There is little need to use a conductive thermal solution unless you're doing sub-zero overclocking. So very little to gain, and so much to lose if mistakes are made. Also, in the future, when describing an issue, you should include outlying situations such as using conductive pastes. If you had mentioned that front the beginning, it would have been a red flag. Not that it took all that much time to resolve in this instance.

But, congrats for getting your rig going.
The first thing i would have thought if it were mine is, "Uhg, fuck. I knew it."
 
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