Its not running anywhere near full speed.. Its on the "silent" setting connected to my m4a88t-i.. But yea its still going to get replaced because it is louder then it should be. Just a matter of finding something else I am happy with. & I Would really like to find a 140mm x 12mm fan, but it appears none exist.
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New Lian Li PC- Q11 itx case : Specification & Feature
- Thread starter emax
- Start date
Its not running anywhere near full speed.. Its on the "silent" setting connected to my m4a88t-i.. But yea its still going to get replaced because it is louder then it should be. Just a matter of finding something else I am happy with. & I Would really like to find a 140mm x 12mm fan, but it appears none exist.
I replaced my GTX460 due to the fan is bad on it. To my surprise my old 8800GT fits in this little case! Im also using an accelero on it with no fan and the temperature never exceded 65C when playing SC2 for 2 hours! Thats pretty good but i had the left panel open but still nice temp!
I looked up the card and it looked very tempting, but for some reason it is not available where I live. I ordered a 560 as planned, and I'm actually quite happy that the 570 wasn't available - made my think and worry (and spend) less.
Thanks for the advice though, it probably is the fastest card one can put in this case.
hi guys
planning on getting the PC-Q11, with the following parts (*denotes parts i already have)
i3/i5 LGA1156 CPU
GA-H55N-USB3
2x2GB DDR3-1333 or 1600
1TB 3.5" HDD + a SSD in the future
*HIS HD5770
*Corsair 520HX
just a quick question...
what cooler would you guys recommend for a sub 4.0GHz overclock on an i3 or i5 LGA1156 cpu with IGP in this build?
note - for the RAM Gskill Ripjaws are rather cheap here where i live so i'm looking at getting those for ram.
planning on getting the PC-Q11, with the following parts (*denotes parts i already have)
i3/i5 LGA1156 CPU
GA-H55N-USB3
2x2GB DDR3-1333 or 1600
1TB 3.5" HDD + a SSD in the future
*HIS HD5770
*Corsair 520HX
just a quick question...
what cooler would you guys recommend for a sub 4.0GHz overclock on an i3 or i5 LGA1156 cpu with IGP in this build?
note - for the RAM Gskill Ripjaws are rather cheap here where i live so i'm looking at getting those for ram.
The big challenge with this case and a full-sized PSU is clearance between the bottom of the PSU and the cooler. The one I've had my eyes on for 1155/1156 systems is the Scythe Shuriken Rev. B (100mm). More than one person has mentioned flipping the fan over on the cooler so it blows into the PSU (and so that the PSU and CPU fan aren't fighting each other). A few boards (mostly AMD) allow people to get by with the 120 mm Big Shuriken, but I don't think your motherboard choice will allow for that. If I recall right, the CPU socket is too close to the PCIe slot for that larger cooler to work.
If I recall right, even the Rev. B may be touching the back of the video card on a GA-H55N-USB3. So long as a person puts something non-conductive between the two parts, I'd think that would be ok. I think a piece of mylar from an antistatic bag would probably do the trick.
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You might be able to try the AXP-140 on it with a video card. I never got a chance to try it out but then again the AXP-140 is also hard to find. Also have to make sure you have low profile ram.
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Any i3 with some decent thermal paste should be just fine up to 4ghz on the stock cooler if you wanna play with it while you search for a better cooler. Speaking from experience, have had two i3's at ~4ghz on stock coolers. i5's I can't comment on.
Hi all, my first post so i hope it reads properly.
I've been a regular reader and from the nice postings here regarding the Q11 SFF/ITX case it was the clincher in getting one for myself (and for a friend) So i thought to contribute some pics as a thank you.
Initially my friend wanted a small case and as it happened i was most eager to try out ITX. (Or was it vice versa? lol
) However she wanted to do gaming like i do as well.
As the postings here show the Q11 is a lovely case. Just love the size and that it "can" be a gaming rig too by allowing a decent video card to be fitted.
So here are some pics showing a few spacings/fittings where we are using a MSI twin Frozer (and it has the PCI-e connectors end-on as well!!)
For cooling we don't have anywhere near the range elsewhere in the world - so barring using the stock cooler or importing an unknown i decided on the old trusty H50 that is locally available. note: except it turned out i got a leaking unit - first dud of 3 used so far....
Pic 1 = Q11 side view
The PSU/ HSF clearance is fine with a normal ATX PSU - EXCEPT the corner of the radiator pushes up on the one corner where the ATX cables exit...bit too tight and a few mm needed to seat the PSU 100%. Any reason to use the trusty Dremel - but my friends worried look as she viewed her soon to be new gaming rig let me just seat it without any modding. Ever so slight 2mm gap on the relevant corner - but unseen and settled to 1mm.
For a MoBo i used a Zotac 1156 with an i5 760 (Darn 1155's were all recalled so this was the next best available.
For power we used a Corsair 600W ATX PSU.
And for video and medium+ gaming we used a MSI Hawk GTX 460 1GB (actually i had originally ordered the "Talon attack" versions - but the box does not mention it anywhere - grrr To boot i had gotten two of them for another build - using them in SLI in a Zalman 350 with a P8P67 but now our two Q11 rigs needed video cards - so a donation was in order. (Yes....PC's have a life and plan all of their own)
Bullet points:
PS - the Zalman small blue heatsinks were added to the MOSFETS on the rear of the board. Not sure if it is really worth it - but as i had to mod the H50 backplate retainer anyway - why not.
Pic 4 = Cooling the rear MosFET's
Apologies if the sequence is a bit disjointed - just wanted to post something so long in case it helps someone as much as i found the other pics so helpful for myself.
Build was only 4 hours from scratch to Win 7 loaded and set up in a basic sense.
(Included swapping out the leaking H50 and modding the backplate retainer ring.)
Tomorrow (today!) i want to build my own Q11 in the same manner - maybe adding a extra fan or two. But the MSI GTX460 and 140mm is so quiet i am loathe to add any "noise" if not needed - will monitor it for a few days first. My friends feedback is awaited for heavy gaming temps - but 56C seems to be close. And at idle about 46C. (Ambient is 25C but lately the weather is more in the region of 28~32+ - thank heavens for air cons!)?
So all temp initial readings were done at 25/6C ambient.
Ok - thats all for now.And on to build no 2 later today hopefully.
Oops - a last pic of the system working...first boot to see if all works.
Yaay - no problems. (Well ,the leaky H50 was a known going in and one hopes - but for reliability and seeing the temps (screen shows 50C at idle) i am rather safe and after this pic we swapped the unit out - 10 min later all was well.This is so much easier than my Rampage Gene in a Lanbox.
I've been a regular reader and from the nice postings here regarding the Q11 SFF/ITX case it was the clincher in getting one for myself (and for a friend) So i thought to contribute some pics as a thank you.
Initially my friend wanted a small case and as it happened i was most eager to try out ITX. (Or was it vice versa? lol
) However she wanted to do gaming like i do as well.As the postings here show the Q11 is a lovely case. Just love the size and that it "can" be a gaming rig too by allowing a decent video card to be fitted.
So here are some pics showing a few spacings/fittings where we are using a MSI twin Frozer (and it has the PCI-e connectors end-on as well!!)
For cooling we don't have anywhere near the range elsewhere in the world - so barring using the stock cooler or importing an unknown i decided on the old trusty H50 that is locally available. note: except it turned out i got a leaking unit - first dud of 3 used so far....
Pic 1 = Q11 side view
The PSU/ HSF clearance is fine with a normal ATX PSU - EXCEPT the corner of the radiator pushes up on the one corner where the ATX cables exit...bit too tight and a few mm needed to seat the PSU 100%. Any reason to use the trusty Dremel - but my friends worried look as she viewed her soon to be new gaming rig let me just seat it without any modding. Ever so slight 2mm gap on the relevant corner - but unseen and settled to 1mm.
For a MoBo i used a Zotac 1156 with an i5 760 (Darn 1155's were all recalled so this was the next best available.
For power we used a Corsair 600W ATX PSU.
And for video and medium+ gaming we used a MSI Hawk GTX 460 1GB (actually i had originally ordered the "Talon attack" versions - but the box does not mention it anywhere - grrr
To boot i had gotten two of them for another build - using them in SLI in a Zalman 350 with a P8P67 but now our two Q11 rigs needed video cards - so a donation was in order. (Yes....PC's have a life and plan all of their own)Bullet points:
- Hope the pics show the video card spacing is fine - just fit the 6 pin connectors before seating it completely.
Pic 2 = GTX460 spacing
- The ATX PSU is fine too. Helps suck the air out and basic temps were 48C dropping to 44C at idle in a quick test.
Pic 3 = Will it fit? (PSU - and ..yes!)
- The HSF is a Corsair H50 (tempted to use a H70 - but not without modding the PSU cable exit) Radiator simply mounted nice n quick with cable ties on top of the Q11's 140mm fan. (But i removed the input filter to save a few mm space AND improve airflow greatly. It is quite restrictive!)
PS - the Zalman small blue heatsinks were added to the MOSFETS on the rear of the board. Not sure if it is really worth it - but as i had to mod the H50 backplate retainer anyway - why not.
Pic 4 = Cooling the rear MosFET's
Apologies if the sequence is a bit disjointed - just wanted to post something so long in case it helps someone as much as i found the other pics so helpful for myself.
Build was only 4 hours from scratch to Win 7 loaded and set up in a basic sense.
(Included swapping out the leaking H50 and modding the backplate retainer ring.)
Tomorrow (today!) i want to build my own Q11 in the same manner - maybe adding a extra fan or two. But the MSI GTX460 and 140mm is so quiet i am loathe to add any "noise" if not needed - will monitor it for a few days first. My friends feedback is awaited for heavy gaming temps - but 56C seems to be close. And at idle about 46C. (Ambient is 25C but lately the weather is more in the region of 28~32+ - thank heavens for air cons!)?
So all temp initial readings were done at 25/6C ambient.
Ok - thats all for now.And on to build no 2 later today hopefully.
Oops - a last pic of the system working...first boot to see if all works.
Yaay - no problems. (Well ,the leaky H50 was a known going in and one hopes - but for reliability and seeing the temps (screen shows 50C at idle) i am rather safe and after this pic we swapped the unit out - 10 min later all was well.This is so much easier than my Rampage Gene in a Lanbox.
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Hi all, my first post so i hope it reads properly.
I've been a regular reader and from the nice postings here regarding the Q11 SFF/ITX case it was the clincher in getting one for myself (and for a friend) So i thought to contribute some pics as a thank you.
Initially my friend wanted a small case and as it happened i was most eager to try out ITX. (Or was it vice versa? lol
As the postings here show the Q11 is a lovely case. Just love the size and that it "can" be a gaming rig too by allowing a decent video card to be fitted.
So here are some pics showing a few spacings/fittings where we are using a MSI twin Frozer (and it has the PCI-e connectors end-on as well!!)
For cooling we don't have anywhere near the range elsewhere in the world - so barring using the stock cooler or importing an unknown i decided on the old trusty H50 that is locally available. note: except it turned out i got a leaking unit - first dud of 3 used so far....
Pic 1 = Q11 side view
The PSU/ HSF clearance is fine with a normal ATX PSU - EXCEPT the corner of the radiator pushes up on the one corner where the ATX cables exit...bit too tight and a few mm needed to seat the PSU 100%. Any reason to use the trusty Dremel - but my friends worried look as she viewed her soon to be new gaming rig let me just seat it without any modding. Ever so slight 2mm gap on the relevant corner - but unseen and settled to 1mm.
For a MoBo i used a Zotac 1156 with an i5 760 (Darn 1155's were all recalled so this was the next best available.
For power we used a Corsair 600W ATX PSU.
And for video and medium+ gaming we used a MSI Hawk GTX 460 1GB (actually i had originally ordered the "Talon attack" versions - but the box does not mention it anywhere - grrr
Bullet points:
- Hope the pics show the video card spacing is fine - just fit the 6 pin connectors before seating it completely.
Pic 2 = GTX460 spacing
- The ATX PSU is fine too. Helps suck the air out and basic temps were 48C dropping to 44C at idle in a quick test.
Pic 3 = Will it fit? (PSU - and ..yes!)
- The HSF is a Corsair H50 (tempted to use a H70 - but not without modding the PSU cable exit) Radiator simply mounted nice n quick with cable ties on top of the Q11's 140mm fan. (But i removed the input filter to save a few mm space AND improve airflow greatly. It is quite restrictive!)
PS - the Zalman small blue heatsinks were added to the MOSFETS on the rear of the board. Not sure if it is really worth it - but as i had to mod the H50 backplate retainer anyway - why not.
Pic 4 = Cooling the rear MosFET's
Apologies if the sequence is a bit disjointed - just wanted to post something so long in case it helps someone as much as i found the other pics so helpful for myself.
Build was only 4 hours from scratch to Win 7 loaded and set up in a basic sense.
(Included swapping out the leaking H50 and modding the backplate retainer ring.)
Tomorrow (today!) i want to build my own Q11 in the same manner - maybe adding a extra fan or two. But the MSI GTX460 and 140mm is so quiet i am loathe to add any "noise" if not needed - will monitor it for a few days first. My friends feedback is awaited for heavy gaming temps - but 56C seems to be close. And at idle about 46C. (Ambient is 25C but lately the weather is more in the region of 28~32+ - thank heavens for air cons!)?
So all temp initial readings were done at 25/6C ambient.
Ok - thats all for now.And on to build no 2 later today hopefully.
Oops - a last pic of the system working...first boot to see if all works.
Yaay - no problems. (Well ,the leaky H50 was a known going in and one hopes - but for reliability and seeing the temps (screen shows 50C at idle) i am rather safe and after this pic we swapped the unit out - 10 min later all was well.This is so much easier than my Rampage Gene in a Lanbox.
Awesome build.. When you do the other can you please snap some pictures of the cooler setup along the way. Your the 1st I ahve seen that actually put the h50 in the case & I am kind of anxious to see how it goes with the PSU.
henryabooboo
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 107
I have an h50 installed in my q11 also albeit not 100% at the moment lol (random restarts due to NB overheating so the startup tells me...) i think i might've screwed the waterblock/pump in too tight. but anywho, don't even try to use an h50 if you don't either have a really small PSU or the lian li PSU extension bracket thing. Even with the extension bracket i i had to switch out the corsair fan with a 12mm thick fan for the radiator. STILL a tight squeeze btw, don't know if it was worth it in the end lol...
o and your PSU better be modular too lol
o and your PSU better be modular too lol
Hi again,
Ok - after build #2 here are some pointers from my experience so far.
Using a H50 is DEFINITELY worthwhile.
Yes - it's tight but for me the build 1(Silver Q11) and build 2 (Black Q11) showed it to be very viable.
And i used a plain non-modular PSU. Granted i am at times pretty fussy n finicky and so in hindsight would have liked to have done some things differently - but practically
it is sometimes wiser not drilling holes (dremel'ing) and rather using a cable tie or three.
The results are excellent so far and i would not change much (or anything really)
So - onto the build. I managed some pics in between but they are not always perfect - just indicators when i remembered to take them.
First thing i would possibly do different is mount the H50 FIRST!
All that puts me off in this theoretical approach would be that the hoses look fragile.
But with care it would be easier to follow the same route if one did the rad first whilst both sides are open. Just be careful.
1) Parts
The lessons from the first build were:
Need more space for the cable exit of the PSU.
And a quick note on this PSU aspect if i may. IMHO - for all PC's except 'very very very purdy' ones where custom looming is part of the modular package - i recommend plain cabled ones. (especially for these Q11 builds )
Modular or plug/connector wired PSU's are potentially worse in my experience.
Overall the contacts are a pain if stressed or (ab)used too much. And at >30 Amps one only needs to add a fraction of an ohm (e.g bad connection) to be heading into trouble.
But mainly for this build modular "connections" simply take more space and acreage and thus cover more of the back panel of the PSU.
W.r.t the Q11 that's a no-no for the close fit radiator.
So.......
"Normal" cabled PSU's have all their exit cables bunched in one side/corner and it works a charm in this build once one caters for it.
Personally I would not attempt a a modular PSU here - no reason to.
And - before i could "cut" off any useless or unused looms of cabling i found that they got hidden so easily it was a joy. Actually unbelievable.
2) The beginning....
Above stage is where i will (if there is a next time) fit the radiator - the first step - then add the MoBo etc. And FYI - in all the fiddling and builds it was always easy enough wrangling the video card in and out last. (connections and all).
And - as some will notice in this build that i replaced the original 14cm fan (max 1500 rpm) with a PWM 12cm 2000 rpm Cooler Master unit (warped blade design - and well tried n tested). Here i cannot state empirically but i'm sure the higher speed 12 cm fan is better than the 1500 rpm std bigger one. And whereas a slighter slower bigger fan should be better or equal to a higher speed smaller unit - but with less noise - somehow in this case (punny) it sounds quieter AND is 3~5C cooler too!) (note - seems the CM 12 runs at 1300~1400 rpm, and the pump at about 700 rpm)
My friends silver Q11 has identical parts and runs at 40~44C. Except in the rush build i used the std 14cm Lian Li fan. I must just just check her PC's bios again for throttling and C1/C3/C6 etc because my units temps idle below 38C in a closed final state case. (Shhh..did i mention it is quiet.....?)
3) Backplate or retainer "mod".
Here is another pic showing how the plastic/nylon backplate is cut to fit the Zotac MoBo.
I added the Zalman heatsinks to the big resistors and a small piece of foam padding to the "island" corner portion.
Reason was to avoid that corner portion from "dropping away" if i loosed the screw too much when one tries to fit the pump/waterblock later on.
Worked like a charm. (the foam is those long strips with adhesive to the underside, about 5~7mm thick - put two pieces in to 'squish' the corner nicely into place)
4) Close Fit
Here is a pic to show the tight fit once the heatsinks are on. Unfortunately the foam padded corner is just out of view on the left. But just imagine the one in the picture with a double foam pad stuck between it and the tray. Keeps it in place.
5) Unexpected Mods
Here was a surprise. Lian Li seem to use the std PC wiring loom for the front panel. Thus the power LED has a three pin connector (using only the outer two).
And yip - the MoBo only has two adjacent pins to attach it to.
So a brave snip and voila - two single connectors ready and fitting.
6) The spacings - some basic measurements
The PSU to CPU distance
About 8.5 cm. I had a 80mm fan propped in that gap at one time with nearly a finger width still spare.
But for my location we have no normal HSF's that can fit in there. TGFTH50
And here is the PSU length - Corsair 600W
Never compared different PSU's but this one is of the "longer" kind (medium). I think the 500W and lower are a cm shorter and the big daddy kW units likely a big longer even than this. Never had a kW rig for a quad cross-X/quad-SLI system to ever worry about that.
The Q11 PSU was mounted with the fan extracting air over the MoBo - it actually forma a fundamental part of the overall cooling when it comes to such small housings. So the Lian Li PSU chassis retainer plate was simply turned 180 to achieve this. I also do believe the PSU is one of the main reasons the system runs so cool n quiet.
* I would also not think that PSU extension thing would help much except to maybe make the build look fugly.
7) Here we go - fitting the Radiator
The concept is shown above. Note the offset mounting tho - the rad is lower down.
Rad is mounted onto the 12 cm fan using cable ties (with grommet spacers to help airflow)
And the rad is again tied to the chassis fan plate using a looong cable tie.
(Well, two were used as i use the heads to lock - so unlike the traditional use of end into head like a snake swallowing itself, i use another tie's head to complete the lock.)
The offset mount now allows for the PSU cables to exit cleanly past it. YAY.
And the only "oops" is i could not get the top (as per the picture) cable tied.
However the bottom tie was more than enough to keep the radiator aligned and supported
.
Top cable tie problem - info for those who may need this info.
Unless you drill a hole for the tie (and also do this mounting FIRST) there is no easy way to cable tie the "top" section.
I have two pictures showing one of my attempts - the holes are offset too much.
Also i was thinking about drilling a hole but then bottom tie is strong and more than secure enough. Double sided tape may be an option - but first read on until you see it fit into place.
Above two pics should show the problem in trying to tie the "top" section down. The holes are two far apart thus the tie lifts the fan. So i just left it off/out.
The bottom cable tie really does a solid job of holding the fan into place.
NB - i had to slightly ream the fan mounting holes to get the thicker cable tie thru - another reason to perhaps do this rad-mounting first in the build. Much easier.
8) Cable runs
In my caseD) i had to ....wanted to run the 3 a SATA cables 'hidden'. So once the PSU was in i realized there was no way to get the SATA cables from the top of the MoBo to the bottom of the case but for going under the video card if i wanted them unseen!
Already the two PCI-e cables were routed along the bottom -and although i could (should?) have used very long black SATA cables along the same path - in this build i pushed them past and under the front of the PCI-e slot. (oh, i put all three in a cheapie black loom - don't have the nice thickly braided stuff.. )
Pic is below .....
So now the SATA cables were totally unseen but for the highly yellow ends at the bottom.
lol
So remember to fit all cables where they will go before pushing the PSU right in.
I actually forgot two cables!! And had to remove /slide the PSU out as well as poke around for them....any guesses which cables these were.....?
They are visible as thick black cables in picture two - the open chassis pic.
Yip - 2 x USB3 plugs!!! Ouch...
* And another tip for Zotac MoBo owners - how to get the 2 x plugs to the rear where they plug into the rear USB 3 sockets (they are for the front fascia plugs so very necessary)
I had no more rear PCI slots to feed them thru. - the video card had eaten both up.
And very loathe to drill holes. But looking at the rear connection plate - just above the USB3 sockets are two blank openings. Just take em off and cut the crossbar - then the two plugs fit thru with a smidgen of a squeeze. And it looks very neat too.
(Apologies for no pics on this- will try update this post later with some - but Zotac owners will see what i mean quite easily.
OK - At last - here is the radiator fitted - bottom (relatively speaking) cable tie tight and it is actually very firm too.
Here are two extra pics showing the mess of cables ans also the spacing between the water pump/cooler and the PSU
And nearing the end - the PSU and radiator in place.
(Note the opening on the right of the rad where the PSU cables now can exit quite freely)
NB - When fitting the cooler pump assembly on top of the CPU - do note the offset of the cooler to allow the "hoses" to pass past the PSU.
I found this angle to work the best so that it does not strain or push the hoses or rad
unduly.
FYI - the gray blobs (circles) are a similar adhesive foam i put on to avoid chafing or any possible reverberations/resonance of the side panel.About 4mm thick they just touch the panel.
I also put some foam pads twixt the rad and PSU.
And as if it was made to order the PSU actually pushes the rad into place perfectly.
The foam pads compress about 70%.
As for the hoses - they do put up a bit of a strain where they bend around - but simply slowly pushing the lid on seats them 100%. Considering to put some thin foam over the hose at that contact point later on if it looks necessary.
A close up of the cable exit point on the PSU is below:
The offset rad was due to me using a 12cm fan instead of the original. And then choosing one of the two "original" sides to line up and cable tie to. Of course i chose the left (as per the pic) as it was the best suited in solving the old problem of the PSU cables butting intop the rad.
A very synchronistic and fortuitous result. (Luck favors the prepared???)
Finally - the nearly completed build. All cables in and just the side panel to go on.
It was at this point i noticed the USB3 absentee's.
But it was easy peasy to slide the PSU out and get them in.
What a later photo (update?) will show is a 3.5" drive on the right and the SSD nearly where it is lying now.
Also that lower right corner is much tidier.
Note the top - behind the CD-Rom - all the other looms went behind (other side, not rear) and on top of the CD-Rom...
* Note: i was concerned with the 3.5" drive blocking the MSI video cards right hand fan intake - but as the next pic shows it seems fine. Temps are better than i expected.
Results...
The hardware monitor app seems to randomly give [TRIAL] at differing points each time i run it. Dunno why.
Anyway, one can see the CPU and video temps clearly.
After a day running with Win 7 so far the temps are about 2 C higher overall.
(Installing software etc via RD - so idle to low/med loads only)
The weekend i will try playing some games to see the proof of the pudding results.
As i mentioned my friend's rig barely crosses over 56C playing Crysis at near everything turned up full (not ultra i think, but 4 x AA etc)
Hope the post helps others who are thinking of using the Q11, and especially with the H50. The change in fan is the key in my build.
PS - fans are all about 25mm thick unless one gets the high efficiency 32 odd mm thick types.
And removing the/any filter from (directly) in front of the fan helps a LOT. Fans hate inlet restrictions! So too the outlet side, but that is more forgiving. (i use spacers/grommets to hit the sweet spot)
That's all. If i forgot anything please post me...
And thanks again for all the other posters - it really helps a lot.
Ok - after build #2 here are some pointers from my experience so far.
Using a H50 is DEFINITELY worthwhile.
Yes - it's tight but for me the build 1(Silver Q11) and build 2 (Black Q11) showed it to be very viable.
And i used a plain non-modular PSU. Granted i am at times pretty fussy n finicky and so in hindsight would have liked to have done some things differently - but practically
it is sometimes wiser not drilling holes (dremel'ing) and rather using a cable tie or three.
The results are excellent so far and i would not change much (or anything really)
So - onto the build. I managed some pics in between but they are not always perfect - just indicators when i remembered to take them.
First thing i would possibly do different is mount the H50 FIRST!
All that puts me off in this theoretical approach would be that the hoses look fragile.
But with care it would be easier to follow the same route if one did the rad first whilst both sides are open. Just be careful.
1) Parts
The lessons from the first build were:
Need more space for the cable exit of the PSU.
And a quick note on this PSU aspect if i may. IMHO - for all PC's except 'very very very purdy' ones where custom looming is part of the modular package - i recommend plain cabled ones. (especially for these Q11 builds )
Modular or plug/connector wired PSU's are potentially worse in my experience.
Overall the contacts are a pain if stressed or (ab)used too much. And at >30 Amps one only needs to add a fraction of an ohm (e.g bad connection) to be heading into trouble.
But mainly for this build modular "connections" simply take more space and acreage and thus cover more of the back panel of the PSU.
W.r.t the Q11 that's a no-no for the close fit radiator.
So.......
"Normal" cabled PSU's have all their exit cables bunched in one side/corner and it works a charm in this build once one caters for it.
Personally I would not attempt a a modular PSU here - no reason to.
And - before i could "cut" off any useless or unused looms of cabling i found that they got hidden so easily it was a joy. Actually unbelievable
.2) The beginning....
Above stage is where i will (if there is a next time) fit the radiator - the first step - then add the MoBo etc. And FYI - in all the fiddling and builds it was always easy enough wrangling the video card in and out last. (connections and all).
And - as some will notice in this build that i replaced the original 14cm fan (max 1500 rpm) with a PWM 12cm 2000 rpm Cooler Master unit (warped blade design - and well tried n tested). Here i cannot state empirically but i'm sure the higher speed 12 cm fan is better than the 1500 rpm std bigger one. And whereas a slighter slower bigger fan should be better or equal to a higher speed smaller unit - but with less noise - somehow in this case (punny) it sounds quieter AND is 3~5C cooler too!) (note - seems the CM 12 runs at 1300~1400 rpm, and the pump at about 700 rpm)
My friends silver Q11 has identical parts and runs at 40~44C. Except in the rush build i used the std 14cm Lian Li fan. I must just just check her PC's bios again for throttling and C1/C3/C6 etc because my units temps idle below 38C in a closed final state case. (Shhh..did i mention it is quiet.....?)
3) Backplate or retainer "mod".
Here is another pic showing how the plastic/nylon backplate is cut to fit the Zotac MoBo.
I added the Zalman heatsinks to the big resistors and a small piece of foam padding to the "island" corner portion.
Reason was to avoid that corner portion from "dropping away" if i loosed the screw too much when one tries to fit the pump/waterblock later on.
Worked like a charm. (the foam is those long strips with adhesive to the underside, about 5~7mm thick - put two pieces in to 'squish' the corner nicely into place)
4) Close Fit
Here is a pic to show the tight fit once the heatsinks are on. Unfortunately the foam padded corner is just out of view on the left. But just imagine the one in the picture with a double foam pad stuck between it and the tray. Keeps it in place.
5) Unexpected Mods
Here was a surprise. Lian Li seem to use the std PC wiring loom for the front panel. Thus the power LED has a three pin connector (using only the outer two).
And yip - the MoBo only has two adjacent pins to attach it to.
So a brave snip and voila - two single connectors ready and fitting.
6) The spacings - some basic measurements
The PSU to CPU distance
About 8.5 cm. I had a 80mm fan propped in that gap at one time with nearly a finger width still spare.
But for my location we have no normal HSF's that can fit in there. TGFTH50
And here is the PSU length - Corsair 600W
Never compared different PSU's but this one is of the "longer" kind (medium). I think the 500W and lower are a cm shorter and the big daddy kW units likely a big longer even than this. Never had a kW rig for a quad cross-X/quad-SLI system to ever worry about that.
The Q11 PSU was mounted with the fan extracting air over the MoBo - it actually forma a fundamental part of the overall cooling when it comes to such small housings. So the Lian Li PSU chassis retainer plate was simply turned 180 to achieve this. I also do believe the PSU is one of the main reasons the system runs so cool n quiet.
* I would also not think that PSU extension thing would help much except to maybe make the build look fugly.
7) Here we go - fitting the Radiator
The concept is shown above. Note the offset mounting tho - the rad is lower down.
Rad is mounted onto the 12 cm fan using cable ties (with grommet spacers to help airflow)
And the rad is again tied to the chassis fan plate using a looong cable tie.
(Well, two were used as i use the heads to lock - so unlike the traditional use of end into head like a snake swallowing itself, i use another tie's head to complete the lock.)
The offset mount now allows for the PSU cables to exit cleanly past it. YAY.
And the only "oops" is i could not get the top (as per the picture) cable tied.
However the bottom tie was more than enough to keep the radiator aligned and supported
.
Top cable tie problem - info for those who may need this info.
Unless you drill a hole for the tie (and also do this mounting FIRST) there is no easy way to cable tie the "top" section.
I have two pictures showing one of my attempts - the holes are offset too much.
Also i was thinking about drilling a hole but then bottom tie is strong and more than secure enough. Double sided tape may be an option - but first read on until you see it fit into place.
Above two pics should show the problem in trying to tie the "top" section down. The holes are two far apart thus the tie lifts the fan. So i just left it off/out.
The bottom cable tie really does a solid job of holding the fan into place.
NB - i had to slightly ream the fan mounting holes to get the thicker cable tie thru - another reason to perhaps do this rad-mounting first in the build. Much easier.
8) Cable runs
In my case
D) i had to ....wanted to run the 3 a SATA cables 'hidden'. So once the PSU was in i realized there was no way to get the SATA cables from the top of the MoBo to the bottom of the case but for going under the video card if i wanted them unseen!Already the two PCI-e cables were routed along the bottom -and although i could (should?) have used very long black SATA cables along the same path - in this build i pushed them past and under the front of the PCI-e slot. (oh, i put all three in a cheapie black loom - don't have the nice thickly braided stuff..
)Pic is below .....
So now the SATA cables were totally unseen but for the highly yellow ends at the bottom.
lol
So remember to fit all cables where they will go before pushing the PSU right in.
I actually forgot two cables!! And had to remove /slide the PSU out as well as poke around for them....any guesses which cables these were.....?
They are visible as thick black cables in picture two - the open chassis pic.
Yip - 2 x USB3 plugs!!! Ouch...
* And another tip for Zotac MoBo owners - how to get the 2 x plugs to the rear where they plug into the rear USB 3 sockets (they are for the front fascia plugs so very necessary)
I had no more rear PCI slots to feed them thru. - the video card had eaten both up.
And very loathe to drill holes. But looking at the rear connection plate - just above the USB3 sockets are two blank openings. Just take em off and cut the crossbar - then the two plugs fit thru with a smidgen of a squeeze. And it looks very neat too.
(Apologies for no pics on this- will try update this post later with some - but Zotac owners will see what i mean quite easily.
OK - At last - here is the radiator fitted - bottom (relatively speaking) cable tie tight and it is actually very firm too.
Here are two extra pics showing the mess of cables ans also the spacing between the water pump/cooler and the PSU
And nearing the end - the PSU and radiator in place.
(Note the opening on the right of the rad where the PSU cables now can exit quite freely)
NB - When fitting the cooler pump assembly on top of the CPU - do note the offset of the cooler to allow the "hoses" to pass past the PSU.
I found this angle to work the best so that it does not strain or push the hoses or rad
unduly.
FYI - the gray blobs (circles) are a similar adhesive foam i put on to avoid chafing or any possible reverberations/resonance of the side panel.About 4mm thick they just touch the panel.
I also put some foam pads twixt the rad and PSU.
And as if it was made to order the PSU actually pushes the rad into place perfectly.
The foam pads compress about 70%.
As for the hoses - they do put up a bit of a strain where they bend around - but simply slowly pushing the lid on seats them 100%. Considering to put some thin foam over the hose at that contact point later on if it looks necessary.
A close up of the cable exit point on the PSU is below:
The offset rad was due to me using a 12cm fan instead of the original. And then choosing one of the two "original" sides to line up and cable tie to. Of course i chose the left (as per the pic) as it was the best suited in solving the old problem of the PSU cables butting intop the rad.
A very synchronistic and fortuitous result. (Luck favors the prepared???)
Finally - the nearly completed build. All cables in and just the side panel to go on.
It was at this point i noticed the USB3 absentee's.
But it was easy peasy to slide the PSU out and get them in.
What a later photo (update?) will show is a 3.5" drive on the right and the SSD nearly where it is lying now.
Also that lower right corner is much tidier.
Note the top - behind the CD-Rom - all the other looms went behind (other side, not rear) and on top of the CD-Rom...
* Note: i was concerned with the 3.5" drive blocking the MSI video cards right hand fan intake - but as the next pic shows it seems fine. Temps are better than i expected.
Results...
The hardware monitor app seems to randomly give [TRIAL] at differing points each time i run it. Dunno why.
Anyway, one can see the CPU and video temps clearly.
After a day running with Win 7 so far the temps are about 2 C higher overall.
(Installing software etc via RD - so idle to low/med loads only)
The weekend i will try playing some games to see the proof of the pudding results.
As i mentioned my friend's rig barely crosses over 56C playing Crysis at near everything turned up full (not ultra i think, but 4 x AA etc)
Hope the post helps others who are thinking of using the Q11, and especially with the H50. The change in fan is the key in my build.
PS - fans are all about 25mm thick unless one gets the high efficiency 32 odd mm thick types.
And removing the/any filter from (directly) in front of the fan helps a LOT. Fans hate inlet restrictions! So too the outlet side, but that is more forgiving. (i use spacers/grommets to hit the sweet spot)
That's all. If i forgot anything please post me...
And thanks again for all the other posters - it really helps a lot.
Thanks Bastage,
Must say i was rather impressed myself. I actually added a couple more foam pads to the rad after that last pic so that it would "seat" nicely when the PSU pushed down. Else there is a bit of a air gap...lol
The temps also are a surprise. I have not played with i5 that much (1366's mostly and then using the Asus ROG boards that just glow with heat!) My Thermaltake LanBox has a mATX Gene in and to fit a H50 was murder. But some head scratching (and other parts at times) i fitted a dual push/pul fan with two H50 pumps modded in line with a reservoir.
For those boards it's mainly the pseudo North Bridge usually running way hot - mine was low at >60C - but too high for me so i modded it in-line with the H50 W/C to achieve about 42C~48C max)
But all that was just plain hard work and i predict the Q11 should give 80~90% the same results in gaming - just with so much less hassle. And definitely because the parts ended up mating so perfectly.
So if you do use a H50 in your build post the progress too please. Be great to see the build and how you do it.
The only possible changes i would consider with hindsight is a silver or white case, and a GTX 570 if there is one that will fit.
Must say i was rather impressed myself. I actually added a couple more foam pads to the rad after that last pic so that it would "seat" nicely when the PSU pushed down. Else there is a bit of a air gap...lol
The temps also are a surprise. I have not played with i5 that much (1366's mostly and then using the Asus ROG boards that just glow with heat!) My Thermaltake LanBox has a mATX Gene in and to fit a H50 was murder. But some head scratching (and other parts at times) i fitted a dual push/pul fan with two H50 pumps modded in line with a reservoir.
For those boards it's mainly the pseudo North Bridge usually running way hot - mine was low at >60C - but too high for me so i modded it in-line with the H50 W/C to achieve about 42C~48C max)
But all that was just plain hard work and i predict the Q11 should give 80~90% the same results in gaming - just with so much less hassle. And definitely because the parts ended up mating so perfectly.
So if you do use a H50 in your build post the progress too please. Be great to see the build and how you do it.
The only possible changes i would consider with hindsight is a silver or white case, and a GTX 570 if there is one that will fit.
Thanks Bastage,
Must say i was rather impressed myself. I actually added a couple more foam pads to the rad after that last pic so that it would "seat" nicely when the PSU pushed down. Else there is a bit of a air gap...lol
The temps also are a surprise. I have not played with i5 that much (1366's mostly and then using the Asus ROG boards that just glow with heat!) My Thermaltake LanBox has a mATX Gene in and to fit a H50 was murder. But some head scratching (and other parts at times) i fitted a dual push/pul fan with two H50 pumps modded in line with a reservoir.
For those boards it's mainly the pseudo North Bridge usually running way hot - mine was low at >60C - but too high for me so i modded it in-line with the H50 W/C to achieve about 42C~48C max)
But all that was just plain hard work and i predict the Q11 should give 80~90% the same results in gaming - just with so much less hassle. And definitely because the parts ended up mating so perfectly.
So if you do use a H50 in your build post the progress too please. Be great to see the build and how you do it.
The only possible changes i would consider with hindsight is a silver or white case, and a GTX 570 if there is one that will fit.
evga 570hd will fit this case as i installed one for a friend
the radiator looks very tight to powersupply does this cause problems on cooling? i think a nexus or shorter powersupply been a little better.
very nice job
Jen
Hi Jen,
Thanks for the heads-up on the EVGA 570. I should have gone for the 570 to start with but local stock is always a problem (as is my $$$ situation at times... lol)
So i will look it up for sure - and see if locally available (i had bad past EVGA experiences).
I'd also be curious to see if they use the twin fan Frozer type cooling - so far all my cards use it and each one runs super cool even under stress.
About the PSU/Rad squeeze. I pondered it myself a while, but 30% of the Rad is open (overhangs the PSU) and the (grommet) spacers allow ample cooling from the fan from a "push" aspect. And for sure the big PSU fan also just complements the outflow. If you saw my temp figures they do look very good so far, not so?
PS - I was considering actually taking the whole PSU cover off completely - thus allowing a much more open & free flow system...but when i saw the temps as is i thought mid 30's C at idle is way too good to still fiddle with much more. I'll see when gaming the week-end to make sure tho.
Over here we don't have a selection anywhere near the US or Europe, and RMA's are even worse. But i'll look up the models you quoted - though i suspect they may give very little better returns. But that is said me not knowing i5's (1156's). Do you have any specs on the build you did (links?)
Be awesome to see the CPU/570 and temps you got.
Ciao,
Jan
Thanks for the heads-up on the EVGA 570. I should have gone for the 570 to start with but local stock is always a problem (as is my $$$ situation at times... lol)
So i will look it up for sure - and see if locally available (i had bad past EVGA experiences).
I'd also be curious to see if they use the twin fan Frozer type cooling - so far all my cards use it and each one runs super cool even under stress.
About the PSU/Rad squeeze. I pondered it myself a while, but 30% of the Rad is open (overhangs the PSU) and the (grommet) spacers allow ample cooling from the fan from a "push" aspect. And for sure the big PSU fan also just complements the outflow. If you saw my temp figures they do look very good so far, not so?
PS - I was considering actually taking the whole PSU cover off completely - thus allowing a much more open & free flow system...but when i saw the temps as is i thought mid 30's C at idle is way too good to still fiddle with much more. I'll see when gaming the week-end to make sure tho.
Over here we don't have a selection anywhere near the US or Europe, and RMA's are even worse. But i'll look up the models you quoted - though i suspect they may give very little better returns. But that is said me not knowing i5's (1156's). Do you have any specs on the build you did (links?)
Be awesome to see the CPU/570 and temps you got.
Ciao,
Jan
Ya know looking at those pics of the radiator. I Think you could rig a Push/Pull around the radiator using the scythe 12mm fans & mount the front fan on the front side of the bracket. Effectively cutting the fan thickness in half on the crowded side. & using the slim fans should still allow more then enough airflow to pass around it.
CrimsonFury
Limp Gawd
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- May 8, 2005
- Messages
- 185
Using spacers between your rad and fan will actually lower performance unless you put a shroud between the rad and fan. A lot of the air will take the path of least resistance and go around the rad instead of through it.
Any guess if I can fit the Gigabyte 560ti SOC in the Q11 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125362)?
According to one review, it is 24cm (560ti reference is 23cm). Lian Li's product page says that the Q11 can take a 240mm video card, but right next to the picture, it says 250mm. So what is it?
According to one review, it is 24cm (560ti reference is 23cm). Lian Li's product page says that the Q11 can take a 240mm video card, but right next to the picture, it says 250mm. So what is it?
Any guess if I can fit the Gigabyte 560ti SOC in the Q11 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125362)?
According to one review, it is 24cm (560ti reference is 23cm). Lian Li's product page says that the Q11 can take a 240mm video card, but right next to the picture, it says 250mm. So what is it?
the gigabyte soc is 11 inchs according to my research as such wont fit in this case. maximum lenght i say is 9 5/8 inchs inside this case thats provided the power plugs in on top of card not behind it
Jen
Just looking at the card, it is not 11in. Guru3D is wrong.
Anyways, that wasn't my question, as many sources said it 24cm/ ~0.5in longer than reference.
You said the Q11 holds up to a ~245mm, so the SOC *should* fit. Thankfully, the power headers are upwards.
I want the SOC (binned cards) because it just as fast as a 570, cost ~$100 less, and runs cool/quiet.
edit:
Blue card is the Gigabyte SOC; Black card is Evga reference.
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wwischerath
Gawd
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- Oct 18, 2010
- Messages
- 679
Any guess if I can fit the Gigabyte 560ti SOC in the Q11 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125362)?
According to one review, it is 24cm (560ti reference is 23cm). Lian Li's product page says that the Q11 can take a 240mm video card, but right next to the picture, it says 250mm. So what is it?
I would guess that you need the remaining 10mm is to put the power connections on (or have space for them)
The power headers are upwards, not sideways.
wwischerath
Gawd
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- Oct 18, 2010
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- 679
I think that depends on the card. Some connectors are on top and some are on the end.
Hello,
What I allready have :
- CPU Intel i7 860
- 4Go DDR3 PC12800 (2*2Go)
- 2 HDD Samsung F3 1To
- Club 3D GTX460 1Go
- Corsair HX850
What I want to buy :
- Lian Li PC-Q11
- GigaByte H55N-USB3
- SSD OCZ 60Go Vertrex 2
- Promalitech Samuel 17
- Noctua NF-S12B 120mm
I'm worry about the 2 HDD, do you think that the graphic card will cook them ? There is a way to cool them ?
Thanks and sorry for my poor English ...
What I allready have :
- CPU Intel i7 860
- 4Go DDR3 PC12800 (2*2Go)
- 2 HDD Samsung F3 1To
- Club 3D GTX460 1Go
- Corsair HX850
What I want to buy :
- Lian Li PC-Q11
- GigaByte H55N-USB3
- SSD OCZ 60Go Vertrex 2
- Promalitech Samuel 17
- Noctua NF-S12B 120mm
I'm worry about the 2 HDD, do you think that the graphic card will cook them ? There is a way to cool them ?
Thanks and sorry for my poor English ...
Your power supply is going to be too long for a PC-Q11. The longest PSU I've seen any reviewer put into a PC-Q11 is 160mm long, and those usually complain about the cables from the PSU running into the front cooling fan. Most reviewers seem to like a PSU that is 140-150 mm long. Your HX850 is 180mm long.
Yes, I would also be concerned about heat in the hard drive area and that cooling solution on the graphics card. The guys at bit-tech had a similar setup and found their hard drives running too hot. http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2010/10/08/lian-li-pc-q11-mini-itx-case-review/3 If you had a fully shrouded 460 that ported all of the heat to the outside of the case, it might be doable, but that would require a different purchase.
Since you already have the PSU and graphics card, I think I would be more tempted to go with slightly more expensive Lian Li PC-Q08. It can accomodate the longer PSU and has better cooling.
Correction to my above suggestion on the PC-Q08. While it is able to fit larger graphics cards and more hard drives, it looks like its space for a PSU is also limited. According to a user review on Newegg, they say that a 140mm long PSU is about as large as it can take.
Yes, I would also be concerned about heat in the hard drive area and that cooling solution on the graphics card. The guys at bit-tech had a similar setup and found their hard drives running too hot. http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2010/10/08/lian-li-pc-q11-mini-itx-case-review/3 If you had a fully shrouded 460 that ported all of the heat to the outside of the case, it might be doable, but that would require a different purchase.
Since you already have the PSU and graphics card, I think I would be more tempted to go with slightly more expensive Lian Li PC-Q08. It can accomodate the longer PSU and has better cooling.
Correction to my above suggestion on the PC-Q08. While it is able to fit larger graphics cards and more hard drives, it looks like its space for a PSU is also limited. According to a user review on Newegg, they say that a 140mm long PSU is about as large as it can take.
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Cliff Couser
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2003
- Messages
- 1,860
Can someone reccommend how to mount 4x 3.5" HDs on this case?
A buddy of mine is consdiering using this with a Zacate board for a file server.
Thanks!
A buddy of mine is consdiering using this with a Zacate board for a file server.
Thanks!
wwischerath
Gawd
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2010
- Messages
- 679
I would just make some sort of bracket to mount the second pair on top of the first pair. It would make the PCI slot useless, but would fit 4 3.5" HDDs. If you were only doing 3 and could forgo the ODD, then mount the third one in the 5.25 bay. Heck, there may be a way to get the other 2 HDDs in there! In any case, something will have to be given up.
Cliff Couser
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2003
- Messages
- 1,860
yeah...was thinking of a bracket or just even some sort of mounts on the existing drive rack.
no need for PCI slots either, as its a simple file server, onboard lan/video will do.
the only thing we couldn't figure out was the cooling of the drives at the bottom.
...maybe remount the 140mm fan lower.
no need for PCI slots either, as its a simple file server, onboard lan/video will do.
the only thing we couldn't figure out was the cooling of the drives at the bottom.
...maybe remount the 140mm fan lower.
wwischerath
Gawd
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- Oct 18, 2010
- Messages
- 679
Since the PCI slot will be empty, just space out the drives and air will circulate. Half inch should do it.After all, I havent seen many enclosures that have fans. Yes, I know the case is cooling the HDD in an enclosure, but enclosures dont normally have active air flow either.
Another idea is just a flap or something to direct some of the air between the drives.
_
Good luck
Another idea is just a flap or something to direct some of the air between the drives.
_
Good luck
I guess my question could have been clearer. I hope to run core i5-2500 room temps around 20-25C.
I was more wondering if it will actually fit and work with a 120/140mm bottom facing PSU fan aimed at the HSF, maybe with some ducting too.
Thanks.
Hi all!
I'm going to buy this case and I have two questions:
Thinking about using CPU cooler without a fan (since PSU fan will be right on top of it AND with contrary air flow)
1- About the CPU cooler, I'm thinking about using a Thermalright AXP-140, Scythe Shuriken or Scythe Big Shuriken (depending on the motherboard), for those who use a PSU with "normal" form factor, do you think any of these will fit? (without fan)
2- Can I connect the case fan to the CPU fan pins? (I don't play with desktops in a long time, the case fan could not have enough pins...?)
My idea was, when at heavy use, the PSU fan should go faster and helping also the passive-mode cpu cooler, but would also be sweet that the case fan would respond also (and cpu fan pins in motherboard have to have something connected right?)
Thanks in advance
I'm going to buy this case and I have two questions:
Thinking about using CPU cooler without a fan (since PSU fan will be right on top of it AND with contrary air flow)
1- About the CPU cooler, I'm thinking about using a Thermalright AXP-140, Scythe Shuriken or Scythe Big Shuriken (depending on the motherboard), for those who use a PSU with "normal" form factor, do you think any of these will fit? (without fan)
2- Can I connect the case fan to the CPU fan pins? (I don't play with desktops in a long time, the case fan could not have enough pins...?)
My idea was, when at heavy use, the PSU fan should go faster and helping also the passive-mode cpu cooler, but would also be sweet that the case fan would respond also (and cpu fan pins in motherboard have to have something connected right?)
Thanks in advance
Yea that or the people with the longer ATX PSU's could just buy the PSU extender instead so the the rest of us dont have to have more depth.
^That's cool. I had wondered if fitting a MATX board in this case was possible. That board looks to be shorter (depthwise) than a standard MATX though... would a standard 9.6" board fit do you think? Will the front ports/power button no longer fit? Maybe you should do that worklog, lol...