New and Improved Watercooling Sticky - Post Your Systems Here

4x 1080Ti Sea Hawk setup:

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And why not throw in a Zotac for good measure: :)

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Alright, I'll bite. What exactly do you use that for? Eth mining?

I have the same case, but for me it's purely decorative.
 
Finally completed the build. Cabling could still use some attention/sleeving but using 3d printed cable combs did help.

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I should receive a Watercool HTSF2 3x120 LTX radiator to replace the paint flaking EK-CoolStream XE 360 (Triple) XE currently installed.
 
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My Powder Red and Power Blue UV (for a buddy) Primochill Vue is being shipped on Monday so I should be able to get mine in the system by the end of the week. I thought about going with Crimson Red, but reading that the reds go darker after time I wanted to get the lightest colour to start with. I even purchased some Sys Reboot to drop in my loop for a day or two to clean it out before installing Vue to try and extend it's life as long as possible.

Since doing soft tube for 10 years, I thought Hard Tube would be the way to go to show off VUE. I even made a time lapse build of my very first attempt at hard tube in celebration of Vue. I'll make a part 2 once my loop has Vue in it.

 
Super short video I took while I was filling and bleeding my loop after swapping to clear tubing and the new UV Violet Vue coolant. This stuff looks amazing and I think I'm going to be ordering the gray coolant to replace this when I go rigid tubing later on. I had my pump running too fast to see it well in the tubing AND my phone doesn't pick it up well but it looks amazing with the D5 running more slowly.



 
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Super short video I took while I was filling and bleeding my loop after swapping to clear tubing and the new UV Violet Vue coolant. This stuff looks amazing and I think I'm going to be ordering the gray coolant to replace this when I go rigid tubing later on. I had my pump running too fast to see it well in the tubing AND my phone doesn't pick it up well but it looks amazing with the D5 running more slowly.


Nice! can't wait to get my VUE in.
 
After waiting impatiently, it's time to drain the system and install Vue. A few hiccups due to my part of being finicky but it's done for now.




Looks good! Should have used "Raining Blood" instead of that weird loop music lol
 
Looks good! Should have used "Raining Blood" instead of that weird loop music lol

LOL only if I liked Slayer and not get a copyright strike on my video :)

Sorry, had to make a revision to the video and setup. I didn't like some of the LED setup in my case. Either it was too dark or just placed wrong. And yes it still has weird loop music lol :p


 
Nope, it's not kinked or crushed at all, it's a clean bend. The angle just sucks and makes it look bad with the way the light plays on it. That tubing is 5/8 OD 3/8 ID and thick as hell to boot.
It's 1/4" thick? o_o
Impressive.
 
isn't this the in win frame? Did you paint it in orange? and did you get that fancy signature series PSU?
 
soft tubing isn't hip anymore but its still beautiful to me when done with care.
Yes... soft tubing done right is still very cool looking.

Indeed. I hope y'all thought my soft tubing was done well.

I would love to go rigid but I was trying to keep the costs down by using many of my old rig's fittings. I totaled up the expenses and it is a minimum of $200 just to get started with PETG (including fittings, heat gun, tools) not counting bending mistakes (which I'm sure I would've made a lot of as I'm often not very patient). I wasn't ready to tackle that just yet so I went with the Primochill Advanced LRT that I already had good experiences with. I use Bitspower fittings but I might replace them all with rigid in this build here perhaps next year.
 
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Indeed. I hope y'all thought my soft tubing was done well.

I would love to go rigid but I was trying to keep the costs down by using many of my old rig's fittings. I totaled up the expenses and it is a minimum of $200 just to get started with PETG (including fittings, heat gun, tools) not counting bending mistakes (which I'm sure I would've made a lot of as I'm often not very patient). I wasn't ready to tackle that just yet so I went with the Primochill Advanced LRT that I already had good experiences with. I use Bitspower fittings but I might replace them all next year and do rigid in this build here.
I keep wanting to do a rigid build and then each time it comes down to buying the shit I think about how much fun it will be to change or test ANYTHING with the hardware and I go back to soft tubing. I don't want to have to drain my loop every time I make a craigslist deal and need to test a card or cpu or some shit and the computer handy is the rigid tubed one. My 1080 Ti FTW3 has been held out of the way many times just to slide in another card for testing and you just don't have that flexibility with rigid... pun intended.
 
I am sad to say my custom WC rig is not being built for beauty. It is being built on a budget for function so no nicely shiny parts, lights or funky fluids for me. Kudos to the builders for the really pretty rigs in here though. :)
 
I keep wanting to do a rigid build and then each time it comes down to buying the shit I think about how much fun it will be to change or test ANYTHING with the hardware and I go back to soft tubing. I don't want to have to drain my loop every time I make a craigslist deal and need to test a card or cpu or some shit and the computer handy is the rigid tubed one. My 1080 Ti FTW3 has been held out of the way many times just to slide in another card for testing and you just don't have that flexibility with rigid... pun intended.

Absolutely, that is a huge negative. You would have to get good at quickly making new bends if things like that change, plus the added disadvantage of having to drain the loop. I am always fiddling and need the flexibility. Thanks for making me feel better! ;)
 
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I keep wanting to do a rigid build and then each time it comes down to buying the shit I think about how much fun it will be to change or test ANYTHING with the hardware and I go back to soft tubing. I don't want to have to drain my loop every time I make a craigslist deal and need to test a card or cpu or some shit and the computer handy is the rigid tubed one. My 1080 Ti FTW3 has been held out of the way many times just to slide in another card for testing and you just don't have that flexibility with rigid... pun intended.
It is a pain, but you can mitigate it. I keep a bit of soft tubing and barb fittings on hand for temporary changes. Personally, I consider draining the loop to be a necessity regardless of type, unless you've got QDCs in use - I don't trust myself enough to make tubing changes with significant amounts of cooling on the system. XD

I used to bend my PETG, but since trying some 90° fittings by necessity with my stainless lines, I decided they're the way to go - I was never satisfied with my bends anyway. =)

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It is a pain, but you can mitigate it. I keep a bit of soft tubing and barb fittings on hand for temporary changes. Personally, I consider draining the loop to be a necessity regardless of type, unless you've got QDCs in use - I don't trust myself enough to make tubing changes with significant amounts of cooling on the system. XD
Nah, I have picked entire computers up by the tubing before... not anything I was worried about surviving at the time but really if you do it right and your fittings and tubing are tight you can do disgusting things with it and the system will not care. Probably a bad habit to get into but I've been doing stupid shit like that for 15 years now.
 
I used to bend my PETG, but since trying some 90° fittings by necessity with my stainless lines, I decided they're the way to go - I was never satisfied with my bends anyway. =)

I think I would be the same. You can use a bunch of 90° fittings, and while that drives up your initial cost of not only the those fittings but additional compression fittings as well, you save the cost of the bending mandrels since you only need a pipe cutter, chamfer tool, and insert, not to mention the time saved withi making the bends.
 
I think I would be the same. You can use a bunch of 90° fittings, and while that drives up your initial cost of not only the those fittings but additional compression fittings as well, you save the cost of the bending mandrels since you only need a pipe cutter, chamfer tool, and insert, not to mention the time saved withi making the bends.
The cutter, bending cord and other stuff is a pittance compared to fittings. I've done both and it's really tough to make the "economy" case for going the fittings route. It's just so much easier. Changing a tubing run take minutes instead of an hour, bending, scrapping and rebending... again though, I just never got that good at it. XD
 
It's not finished but it's working 100%. I still have to do the following:

1) Install tubing - I went soft to make it faster and I will use the compression fittings in my kids PCs so no waste here. I am gathering the parts slowly for the swap.
2) Lazer cut some acrylic parts I have designed. I.e. a plexi shroud I am using to block the to 5.25'" bays that I use for 2X Hot Swap HDDs with a 120mm fan at the top - thermally controlled for their cooling.
3) I intend to get custom cables for the Corsair AX1500i but not from cable mods since I want 15AWG wires.
4) I need to install some LED strips at the bottom of the case (power and holes already there)
5) I need to change tubing of the external lines going to the radiator (ZMT tubing - have it).
6) Working on an idea to conceal the cables coming out from the MO-RA 420 Pro external RAD I am using.
7) Might add a second MO-RA 420 and integrate the two in a custom construction when I find the time.

8) I am also thinking of getting a CableMod vertical GPU mount kit.

This is in a Coolermaster Cosmos 2 case with the tempered glass side panel that came out with the Cormos 2 anniversary edition. I have made certain modification and have added an extra 120mm fan (Front Intak) at the 5.25" bays (below the hot swap disks that I moved up).

There are 17 fans total and 6X Sensors all hooked up on the motherboard (9X Corsair ML140Pros on the High Amp (3A) header) + the Fan Extension Card that came with it. They work great through Asus Q-Fan in the Bios but I might be tempted to get an Aquaero in the future for their software - not that I need though.
 

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Well, here's mine. EK Supreme block, EK mainboard block, eVGA 980Ti Hydrocopper. DDC pump and Thermochill PA120.4 radiator. Trusty old Sandy Bridge 2600K at 4.4GHz.
 

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