New AMD Ryzen Build Failing to POST. Any thoughts?

I would have never guessed a rubber gasket made for a CPU cooler would cause a ground short.....
 
EPDM is supposed to have excellent electrical insulating properties. Maybe they got a bad shipment of parts or something.
 
Too much Aluminum or other metal in the tape or gasket type material. I haven't seen the material. Aluminum is used for UV resistance.
 
BeerEngineer said:
I love you guys.;)
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You can repay us by making it look like your loop is running a nice frosty ale through its lines, carbonation effect would be a bonus (of course, only in effect, as I know air in the lines is vvvvvvery bad lol).
I don't like Guinness... but man, how cool would it be to have an almost black liquid but with that maple colored rolling nitrogen head look? :woot:
Can't believe we don't have a beer mug emote.... soooo... here's coffee instead! :coffee:
 
RedWagnum said:
In-freaking-credible! I would have never guessed that a rubber gasket would cause such problems. Color me amazed! :jawdrop: Kudos to noko for finding that information. (y)

Definitely something to file in the "weird stuff" folder!
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Me either, I just remembered reading about it and it also struck me as Wow! What! But one after another had this problem as time went on. Now I am thinking of setting up a custom loop with an EK kit so seeing how this turns out will be good.
 
Glad you got it figured out, after you said it spun the fans with the stock heatsink on top I thought it had to do with the block somehow.
 
Ugh. The first day I played around with overclocking I'm getting a Q code of 8.

Tried clearing cmos, tried reflashing. Neither appear to be breaking it free of the code 8 system initializatiom agent issue.
 
BeerEngineer said:
Ugh. The first day I played around with overclocking I'm getting a Q code of 8.

Tried clearing cmos, tried reflashing. Neither appear to be breaking it free of the code 8 system initializatiom agent issue.
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It's happening even after a cleared CMOS (see: system at 100% defaults)? Or is it only happening when you clear it and re-apply your overclock settings?

EDIT: So, here I was, reading this guys post for another reason entirely, and I come to a point where he mentions..... Code 8 on... his Crosshair 6 Hero...
https://community.amd.com/thread/214564

What I'm able to draw from all of that is first off, the "Sensor Skew" option in the C6H is going to potentially cause issues from the start, so I'm hoping your insta-Code 8 is not an all-the-time occurrence for you and you can turn it off.

Second, is that MAYBE the reason you're getting that, is due to some sort of cooling issue. Either somehow air is trapped in your block, or the pump isn't working (I suspect you'd be able to tell right away), or perhaps just a simple case of a bad mounting job. I mean, considering you've switched back and forth so many times, I could see this being plausible.
OR... and this I think is worst-case speculation here... The block mounting pressure is too great, which due to the repeated flexing and unflexing of the board as a result of the numerous cooler swaps... has caused a stress fracture in a board trace; thus, your pre-POST error. :unsure: Hopefully that isn't the case and someone else can swoop in and paint a better plausibility picture. :sorry:
 
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In reading posts online, it appears that others that removed the center of their rubber gasket in the defective ekwb backplate retention also experienced this, but it's just unusual that it occurred at a failed very small overclocking attempt. The pump definitely was working. Temps generally have been super low.
 
Sounds like that entire rubber gasket needs to go.
I'm more curious why they went with a rubber gasket instead of just a simple nonconductive plastic like the factory AM4 backplate.

Which for that matter, may I ask why you aren't using the factory backplate anyways? I mean it's not like back with S939 where it was plastic heh Hell, the one that came with my Thermaltake Water2.0 was a chintzy piece of plastic, and so I used the factory metal FM2 backplate instead :p That's what the Asetek AM4 bracket uses now.
 
BeerEngineer said:
Pulled CPU block, CPU, reinstalled CPU, installed CPU block after trimming intel flaps from backplate, installed block gently.

Bios flash from USB.
Booted.
Worked.
This board and install retention are so finicky...
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Excellent! You'll have to let me know what you think of the system after everything is up and running. I've been kind of hard on Ryzen lately -- perhaps unnecessarily so. Would definitely like to see what you think after the build is 100% up and running.

[H]ardOCP is definitely badass at troubleshooting, though. Great work!
 
dave343 said:
I like to wing it, I always do the complete build and then cross my fingers :D, although I will make sure it posts *before* I spend an hours doing cable management.
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Well that is solid advice for someone troubleshooting.
 
dave343 said:
kind of the opposite :) but in a case like this, I'd just narrow it down to the board and psu, then start adding stuff one at a time as he has. Shorts are a pia to nail down.
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Which is why I suggest building outside of the case to make sure all parts are in working order.
 
Man, so I just purchased this board and the AM4 mount/back plate from performance-pcs for my ekwb evo supremacy to convert it for AMD now I'm worried about using the gasket for the backplate : \

I'm curious why you weren't able to just leave the stock backplate I was kind of hoping I didn't have to mess with it.
 
A replacement gasket arrived from ekwb in a little less than a week. I haven't installed it yet, but I will soon. I'm thinking about doing a quick test with the multimeter with the probes at a set distance apart to see if I can see a difference in conductivity between the old and new gasket.
 
BeerEngineer said:
A replacement gasket arrived from ekwb in a little less than a week. I haven't installed it yet, but I will soon. I'm thinking about doing a quick test with the multimeter with the probes at a set distance apart to see if I can see a difference in conductivity between the old and new gasket.
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I tested my rubber gasket before installing this weekend, and it didn't really show any conductivity with the multi-meter maybe like a cm apart. But I am having what seems to be the same issues you are having. Who did you contact for a replacement? Also what were your multi-meter results?
 
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