NEC LCD2690Wuxi for photography / photo-editing

PostPCMan

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There have been a few posts here and a couple of private messages asking how the new NEC monitor does for photo-editing. The answer, in short, is that it seems wonderful. I've only had the monitor for a couple of days now. I've never used an Eizo, which is the monitor to which the NEC is often compared, so I can't comment on how it stacks up. Also, I haven't done any formal testing of the monitor, except the response / persistence tests which I posted earlier on the huge 2690 thread. With that in mind, then...

The colors are true, and spectacular. The larger than usual gamut (93% of Adobe RGB) seems to really be visible - I see colors that I've never seen on a monitor before. Once calibrated, the display corresponds very nicely with the prints from my HP B9180.

I don't have SpectraVision II calibration software. I have an Eye1 Display-2, with the Match software. It works, but it doesn't write to the NEC's internal LUT, only to the video card's. The monitor has several internal color presets. It comes set to "native", which is what I'm still using. The other presets are for very weird color temperatures, and look mostly unusable. Perhaps they're not intended to be used, and are meant to be overwritten with reasonable presets by the user? As for the "native" setting, there's no documentation as to what it is, but it's the default, it looks good, and it allowed the calibration to succeed nicely. If you don't have a calibrator, the monitor looks as good as any I've seen straight out of the box, so you could certainly work without it. Still, I have a feeling that I'll get more out of the monitor with SV, and I expect that I'll buy it once I can swallow the steep price.

The monitor, as shipped, is VERY bright. I think one of the uses for this display is in public, info display kind of applications, and it would probably be great for that. For photography, though, it's overwhelming, bordering on painful. Using my calibrator, I turned it down to 120 (I forget the units), which is often recommended for photo-editing. To get it to that brightness involved turning the brightness down from the default 100% to about 2%. I don't know what the brightness percentage means exactly, but 0% is still quite bright, and I see no way to turn it down any further. Also, I experimented with the automatic brightness control, but it kept making the monitor brighter than I wanted, so I turned it back off. It may be that the SpectraView software would help to tame this. The moral of the story, though, is that the monitor can be turned down to a reasonable brightess - just don't be timid about backing it nearly all the way down.

I love the size of the monitor. At 1900x1200, the dot pitch is a bit bigger than 24" monitors with the same resolution, which means that my 50+ yr. old eyes can do most of my work in comfort, and without glasses. This is my first wide-screen monitor, and it makes working sooo much easier. I can see the whole photo at a nice size, and still have pallettes and such off to the sides. Both Photoshop, and especially Lightroom, look GREAT on this monitor!

The documentation is very weak on the info that I'd like to have had. What is the "native" color preset? Does it make sense, for my use, to use the "AmbiBright" setting which adjusts brightness according to ambient light? What do the brightness percentages in the menus correspond to? What would SpectraView really do for me? Sadly, no answers in the manual. All it has is a very long list of menu settings with minial detail about what each setting does. For instance, on the "overdrive" setting, it tells me that it turns overdrive on / off. Well, OK, but what is overdrive, anyway? Why would / wouldn't I want it? Might it reduce color fidelity, or shorten the life of the monitor? Sorry - no answers.

Another objection is that I really think that the SpectraView calibration software should be free, or at least cheap, especially considering the brightness issue discussed above. The monitor is probably not overpriced, but it's sure not cheap, and I think it verges on gouging for NEC to ask another $169 for the software to calibrate it.

In summary, this is a great monitor for photo work. Better / worse than Eizo? I have no idea. But I'm very, very happy with it, and definitely recommend it.
 
question:
Does the Colorcomp have any impact on your calibration when enabled? Its supposed to reduce overall brightness, but make the panel more even lit. :)
 
I turned Colorcomp on because it seemed like a good idea, but haven't experimented with it further. According to the doc, it makes the display more even, at the expense of brightness. That seemed like a great tradeoff, since I certainly don't need it at maximum brightness, anyway.
 
I turned Colorcomp on because it seemed like a good idea, but haven't experimented with it further. According to the doc, it makes the display more even, at the expense of brightness. That seemed like a great tradeoff, since I certainly don't need it at maximum brightness, anyway.

My thoughts exactly. :) I don't like it too bright when I have to work for long infront of a panel. Its said to improve color, but I wonder if it can impact color range.

I found this pdf valuable for looking at the different functions of the NEC: http://www.nec-display-solutions.se/coremedia/download/213188/2690WUXi-UsersGuide-english.pdf
 
The monitor, as shipped, is VERY bright. I think one of the uses for this display is in public, info display kind of applications, and it would probably be great for that. For photography, though, it's overwhelming, bordering on painful. Using my calibrator, I turned it down to 120 (I forget the units), which is often recommended for photo-editing. To get it to that brightness involved turning the brightness down from the default 100% to about 2%. I don't know what the brightness percentage means exactly, but 0% is still quite bright, and I see no way to turn it down any further. Also, I experimented with the automatic brightness control, but it kept making the monitor brighter than I wanted, so I turned it back off. It may be that the SpectraView software would help to tame this. The moral of the story, though, is that the monitor can be turned down to a reasonable brightess - just don't be timid about backing it nearly all the way down.

High brightness is actually my main issue with the current generation panels. I am glad to hear that you can turn down the brightness of your 2690 all the way down to 120 (cd/m2 I assume) but I was wondering if you could be a bit more specific on how dim that actually feels. How dark is the room you like to work in? How severe effect on the contrast does the 2% brightness have? Do you feel that the white balance stays uniform across the brightness adjustments? Thanks for any input.
 
The room I work in has lots of north-facing windows. During the day, it's fairly bright but not direct sunlight. I work here both day and night, and at night I keep the room pretty dark. The monitor, set at 120 cd/m2 works well both day and night, so I rarely adjust the brightness.

It is very even, corner to center to corner.

I've now calibrated with the SpectraView II software, which writes the 12-bit LUT internal to the monitor. I'm not sure how that interacts with the brightness control, exactly, and the mostly worthless manual that comes with the monitor doesn't say. I set the RGB setting to P (programmable), which means use the LUT rather than a preset or native. When you run the SpectraView calibration, you can set a brightness as one parameter, which I did. Now, brightness in the OSM reads 0%. I don't know whether that means that in P mode, the brightness parameter should always be 0%, or whether SpectraView sets it at 0% as a matter of policy and then controls brightness via the LUT, but for whatever reason SpectraView set it there, and the result is very good.

I'm still very, very happy with the monitor, but much less happy with having needed to spend an extra $200 for the special software to calibrate and profile it.
 
Hi PostPCMan,

Like you I have my MultiSync now.
I found the RGB setting [P] (programmable) to give the best results, better than the native one, because it let me finetune the output of my Graphic's Card to the input of the NEC.
On the CD came a tool called GammaComp, which did a really fine job changing the LUT of the NEC for that. It's a bit of a discovery-tool though, how this software works is something you need to find out yourself. Support and help text is indeed very scarse, but it gave me better color response than I've ever seen before with a monitor..

Like you wrote, I too am seeing colors I did not know were in there. Some photos actually (because of that) look terrible, but that is only because it's showing colors I never thought were there that are now taking part in the total of the photographs. I have already seen a couple I really need to color-correct anew. The 2690WUXi simply does not lie about what's there.
I'm very familiar with the same effect in sound reproduction. When I had my HD600 Sennheiser headphones, it made me hear everything in a new way. It is very revealing, just like this NEC.

Overall I'm VERY happy with it. It's very fast too, and I have not even switched on overdrive yet, 'cause I'm a quality-freak.

For those interested, by the use of entechtaiwan.com moninfo tool:

Monitor
Windows description......... NEC LCD2690WUXi Digital (DDC/CI)
Manufacturer description.... LCD2690WUXi
Manufacturer................ NEC
————————————————————————————
Plug and Play ID............ NEC66CB
EDID data source............ I2C bus (real-time)
————————————————————————————
Manufacture date............ 2007, ISO week 4
EDID revision............... 1.3
Display type and signal..... Digital
Sync input support.......... n/a
Screen size................. 550 x 340 mm (~27")
Power management............ Standby, Suspend, Active off/sleep

Color characteristics
Display gamma............... 2.20
Red chromaticity............ Rx 0.658 - Ry 0.324
Green chromaticity.......... Gx 0.210 - Gy 0.658
Blue chromaticity........... Bx 0.146 - By 0.065
White point (default)....... Wx 0.313 - Wy 0.329

Timing characteristics
VESA GTF support............ Not supported
Horizontal scan range....... 31-92kHz
Vertical scan range......... 50-85Hz
Video bandwidth............. 170MHz
Extension blocks............ n/a
Timing recommendation #1.... 1920x1200 at 60Hz
Modeline................ "1920x1200" 154.000 1920 1968 2000 2080 1200 1203 1209 1235 +hsync -vsync

Standard timings supported
640 x 480 at 60Hz - IBM VGA
640 x 480 at 67Hz - Mac II
640 x 480 at 72Hz - VESA
640 x 480 at 75Hz - VESA
720 x 400 at 70Hz - IBM VGA
800 x 600 at 56Hz - VESA
800 x 600 at 60Hz - VESA
800 x 600 at 72Hz - VESA
800 x 600 at 75Hz - VESA
832 x 624 at 75Hz - Mac II
1024 x 768 at 60Hz - VESA
1024 x 768 at 70Hz - VESA
1024 x 768 at 75Hz - VESA
1152 x 870 at 75Hz - Mac II
1280 x 720 at 60Hz - VESA
1280 x 1024 at 60Hz - VESA
1280 x 1024 at 75Hz - VESA
1360 x 765 at 60Hz - VESA
1400 x 1050 at 60Hz - VESA
1440 x 1440 at 60Hz - VESA
1600 x 1200 at 60Hz - VESA
1680 x 1680 at 60Hz - VESA
1920 x 1200 at 60Hz - NEC
1920 x 1920 at 60Hz - VESA

Raw EDID base
00: 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF 00 38 A3 CB 66 01 01 01 01
10: 04 11 01 03 80 37 22 78 EA 8E B5 A8 53 35 A8 25
20: 10 50 54 BF EF 80 81 C0 81 80 90 40 8B C0 95 00
30: A9 40 B3 00 D1 00 28 3C 80 A0 70 B0 23 40 30 20
40: 36 00 26 58 21 00 00 1A 00 00 00 FD 00 32 55 1F
50: 5C 11 00 0A 20 20 20 20 20 20 00 00 00 FC 00 4C
60: 43 44 32 36 39 30 57 55 58 69 0A 20 00 00 00 FF
70: 00 37 31 31 30 30 34 35 38 59 42 0A 20 20 00 4C
 
Thanks for the info guys. Out of curiosity, did any of you experiment with the ultra low brightness mode available through the avdvanced settings?

One more kinda random question? Have you tried connecting the 2690 to HDTV signals such as 480p, 720p and 1080p? I was wondering if you can comment on the way it displays the 16:9, HDCP protected content. Is the 1:1 mapping correct, does the HDCP handshake happen correctly? Thanks so much for all the input. I currently own a Gateway 24 inch but I feel I am ready to pull the trigger on the NEC.
 
The answer is no, to both questions. I don't have a convenient hdtv source, or I'd try it for you. I probably would have tried the low brightness mode if I'd know about it, but I didn't until I saw your post. At this point, the display is just fine, so I don't think I'll mess with it.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Out of curiosity, did any of you experiment with the ultra low brightness mode available through the advanced settings?
Where are those 'advanced settings' to be found? I did not find them.

I have Brightness set to 0.0%, contrast on 50.5%, eco mode off, auto brightness off, black level on 49.6%, sharpness on 28.6%, colorcomp on.

As far as I can see, it has all options to control the size expansion it *can* do. I never use it, so I have it set to off. For HD input, I would leave it at off, depending on what you want. You'll get original aspect ratio at all times if you want. It makes no mistakes there, like with the BenQ.
You can set it to auto-sense the inputs, and control what it should or should not detect. I connected an old PC's videocard to the D-sub and it autoset the screen resolution to the input, so without stretching. But you can have it stretch too.

By the way, it's now available for 1225 euro: http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/148171/
 
Where are those 'advanced settings' to be found? I did not find them.

I have Brightness set to 0.0%, contrast on 50.5%, eco mode off, auto brightness off, black level on 49.6%, sharpness on 28.6%, colorcomp on.

You can download the manual from: http://www.necdisplay.com/corpus/7/5/LCD2490_LCD2690wuxi_user_manual.pdf

On page 16 of the document (18 of the pdf) it shows you how to enter the advanced functions. On page 17 (19 of the pdf) and under Tag1 you can find the Low Bright Mode which you can turn on in order to have brightness lower than the default minimum.
 
This thread has been asleep for a while...

As a graphic designer who is THAT close to ordering it, I'm just wondering how you, guys, feel about it, and with a perspective of 5 months, if any new tips are available before, and especially after purchasing it...

Thanks!
 
Ami, I am an artist as well. I went for the Planar 26". Check out the thread on that. It uses the same S-IPS panel this NEC does. I will be adding a second one down the road, dropping my CRTs.
 
Planar?

Hmmm... The name sounds familiar... I'll have to read the thread...

How much was it?.... Do you think it to be better than the NEC 2690?
 
it doesnt have all the extra ASIC's/electronics for colour reporduction etc... however the Planar will be superior when it comes to input lag (2-3 times less). The 40-60ms on the NEC is very alarming to the say the least, the 2407 was bad and that was in the 35-40ms range.
 
Excuse my ignorance, but since I'm not into gaming, but rather into graphics and photo editing, I guess the issue of speed -- for me at least, I must guess -- is not an issue... If I correctly anderstand "Input Lag"...

Where can I get any indication as to the 26" Planar COLOR ACCURACY (Gamut coverage)? Or just the fact they use S-IPS pannel should be enough indication that I can't go wrong with their product???

Thanks!
 
Did you find the thread on it? http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1180069


It's a $1000 screen vs. $1500 for the NEC. It uses the same S-IPS panel - which is wide gamut. Trust me it's wide gamut. I have calibrated the Planar px2611w with the spyder2pro, and I can't see how the NEC would be much different.

Brilliant screen. But not many have it yet. Difference in price is likely due to a couple less features which others could likely fill you in more about. But from this artist, it's fantastic. Oh and FYI, my main use is video game texturing, but I will also be doing photography for personal and work use. For me the decision turned out to be a good one, though of course I have not seen the NEC. But I don't think it's worth $500 more :)
 
Thanks, Hudder, yes. I'm reading the other thread now...

...Am still waiting to read how well is this Planar working with COLORS.... I think having an S-IPS panel is NOT making it automatically as wide gamut as the NEC 2690, I think there is some electronics involved (and maybe their back-lighting also?)....

...Also "made in China" is not making me happy...

Still reading...
 
I saw somewhere a few links to sites where you can download free testing software for LCDs, but they were all for Windows, none for the Macintosh...

...So I'm wondering, what comparable software is Mac-compatible, OR sites where you can test your LCD, not software to download, just testing your LCD at the site.... Thanx.
 
Except...colorcomp is broken on at least one batch of 2690 monitors. The calibration wasn't done properly at the factory and at medium greys, or when calibrating for white at a low 120cd/m2, you will find a magenta tinge in the middle and a greenish tinge at the bottom of the screen.

It is easy to test if your monitor has the problem. Revert to factory defaults (i.e native colour, gamma). Then set auto luminance to 1, and low bright mode to on. This will dim white down to 125cd/m2. View a completely white screen, and then report back if it is truly white or whether there is colour uniformity issues.

This is confirmed by NEC Europe at this time. I dont know if America has acknowledged it yet. For now I have chosen a slight luminance uniformity problem (with colorcomp off) over a colour uniformity problem (With colorcomp on). For photo editing the colour is more important, and the uniformity of luminance is slightly lower on the very right hand side, which is where Photoshop tools are, so it doesn't matter!
 
Thanks, Hudder, yes. I'm reading the other thread now...

...Am still waiting to read how well is this Planar working with COLORS.... I think having an S-IPS panel is NOT making it automatically as wide gamut as the NEC 2690, I think there is some electronics involved (and maybe their back-lighting also?)....

...Also "made in China" is not making me happy...

Still reading...


Get over the made in China matter. Both the NEC and Planar product are manufactured in China. The Planar product is completely devoid of the capability to adjust the panels internal LUT. Additionally the Planar's adjustments in its menu are simplistic relative to the NEC. Of course one can adjust the graphics card in calibrating the Planar but this is a less preferred method of calibrating the monitor than that available using the NEC monitor with the Spectraview software. The NEC is the creme de la creme at its price point relative to the capabilities that it provides. These uniformity issues regarding the NEC are disturbing; but for those for whom the glass is half full, the inconvience issues seem to be manageable.
 
...The Planar product is completely devoid of the capability to adjust the panels internal LUT. Additionally the Planar's adjustments in its menu are simplistic relative to the NEC. Of course one can adjust the graphics card in calibrating the Planar but this is a less preferred method of calibrating the monitor than that available using the NEC monitor with the Spectraview software. The NEC is the creme de la creme at its price point relative to the capabilities that it provides. These uniformity issues regarding the NEC are disturbing; but for those for whom the glass is half full, the inconvience issues seem to be manageable.

I'll save my $500, thanks. The Planar is beautiful. Stunning is a better word, from someone who was so afraid to move from my CRTs. I've got absolutely no regrets - for a digital artist, the choice between the NEC and the Planar is a no-brainer.

I think you can split hairs forever, talking about adjustable LUT and fancy calibration software. Are those hairs even worth $500 more? Not in my view, especially when I already own a Spyder2pro. And btw, the Planar is adjustable for RGB gains, RGB offsets, and saturation in its menu. I didn't have to at all bother with video card adjustments. It was a breeze calibrating, and it looks spectacular.

All but the most finicky (and deep-walleted) professionals could not be more happy with an investment in the Planar. It's undoubtedly a better display than most design/art companies have sitting in their offices whether they are for print or not.

Just trying to keep it real. Don't get too wrapped up in the spec sheets, the big brand name, or the hype. Glad I didn't.
 
I am considering buying the Nec 2690. Somewhere in this thread reference is made to a separate thread on it. Howeevr, I cannot find it and there seems to be no search function. So can someone please give me the link? Many thanks!
Second question: is it possible to purchase the spectraview software apart from the monitor? It is said in this thread, but how and where can you buy it? I am in Europe. Thanks for your help.
 
In Europe, there are 2 versions. The Spectraview version has modified firmware that licenses the European software which is BasICColor. The firmware avoids the need for software registration keys or limiting it to one computer connected to that monitor.

The American software does not use firmware for license keys and instead uses the old fashioned and simpler key. However, the website only allows you to purchase with an American address registered credit card. Therefore you may need to find a friend who can buy it for you in America and then you pay them back somehow!
 
Thanks, I'll have a look at the thread.
I found this on calibration:
http://www.avides.com/prod/artikel_gruppe.php?ssku=EKI 3964784 0805736014457&
One can also order through amazon, which is how I found it. This is probably the software plus a calibration device together. I have looked for revies of tests, but did not find anything. Someone? would this be better than the XRite fora NEC Display?

But OK, I don ot even have the 2690 (yet?) ;)
 
Yes the GreTag Colorimeter will be better than an XRite. Also you really need to get the software to get the full potential out of the display since you cant calibrate in the internal 12 BIT LUT without it.
 
Wouldn't more affordable products like Eye-One Display 2 (about $225) do the job as well?
 
Wouldn't more affordable products like Eye-One Display 2 (about $225) do the job as well?

The Eye One Software wont actually calibrate the display only the video card. The Spectraview software is written to work with the DDC/CI of the display to allow internal calibration. Third party software can not do this.
 
...so only the original Spectraview is the product to really calibrate the 2690.

A. Where do you get it, if you don't feel like paying an extra $300 to NEC to get it bundled with the monitor?

B. What is the practical difference (I mean realistically, not in theory) between calibrating the video card and the display itself?
 
B. Choosing from 12 bit of color (display) vs 8 bit of color (video card). Thats a difference of a few billion.
Also you do lose some of your accuracy in the transmission from the card to the display. Internal calibration of the display garuntees the calibration that you want.

A. www.nm-select.com - you can buy the software without the puck here. Or you can buy the whole kit wiht the software and the puck. I believe it is cheaper to buy the kit wiht the display htough.
 
SpectraView Software II - Download = $170. Not bad. More questions:

A. How much better is it using the whole system, hardware included, compared to the software only?

B. Can this software be used to calibrate other LCDs too?

C. How does it compared to other, comparable-priced calibration products, like the Eye-One Display2, or the Spyder2 ? I think those are using hardware, not software only.
 
A. The colorimeter in the kit is the Eye One V2. So you can pretty much use any colorimeter you choose. That wont change much.

B. I do not believe so.

C. Again the spectraview calibrates the display internally and allows you too access the 12 bit LUT. The other softwares wont allow this.
 
Where are those 'advanced settings' to be found? I did not find them.

I have Brightness set to 0.0%, contrast on 50.5%, eco mode off, auto brightness off, black level on 49.6%, sharpness on 28.6%, colorcomp on.

Meow, if you were not familiar with how to get to the advanced settings, how did you set the eco mode, auto brightness, black level and colorcomp? I though those were only available through the advanced settings? I do not see any possibility to get at them through the buttons on the display, or am I being stupid? Help appreciated!

I installed the display last Saturday and it is great, though the brightness even whe nset at 0, at night is still a bit too much, so I'll have a look at the ECO modes.
 
Meow, if you were not familiar with how to get to the advanced settings, how did you set the eco mode, auto brightness, black level and colorcomp? I though those were only available through the advanced settings? I do not see any possibility to get at them through the buttons on the display, or am I being stupid? Help appreciated!

I installed the display last Saturday and it is great, though the brightness even whe nset at 0, at night is still a bit too much, so I'll have a look at the ECO modes.

There are two different menus in the display. the fist is accessed by simply pushing menu the second is accesed by holding the input button and power button together when the display is off. ONce it is on press menu and you will have a new set of advanced options.
 
There are two different menus in the display. the fist is accessed by simply pushing menu the second is accesed by holding the input button and power button together when the display is off. ONce it is on press menu and you will have a new set of advanced options.

Travbonb, Thank you. How do you access the menu then? I see no menu button, only the input button and that does not give many possibilities, certainly not th eones Meow mentioned. Or am I blind? (possibly :( ).
 
Travbonb, Thank you. How do you access the menu then? I see no menu button, only the input button and that does not give many possibilities, certainly not th eones Meow mentioned. Or am I blind? (possibly :( ).

Pressing the input button should bring you to the OSM right?? If you want to go to the advanced menu just turn the display off. Then hold input and power. Once the display is on you should be able to access the advanced settings.
 
Travbomb, thanks, but I did tha tand it brought me nowehere, jsut the input siganls and the screensaver thing, nithing more. I think I did play arpound in the expectation to se emore, but I did not. So I thoiugh all the other stuff was hidden under the advanced mode, which I'll try, I know about it. But I was a bit surprised to read tha tMeow got many adjustment possibilites from his OSM, which I apparently don't? I am not sitting behind th escree nright now, so cannot try it immediately, but as soon as I return home I will.
 
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