NCASE M1 picture and build general log

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Series^ said:
Glad to help :)

Cramming too much into something too small is what I do best :D





Thanks!

2600k cooled by the NH-L12, P8Z77I-DX, OCZ Agility 3 120gb, 1+2TB WD Green, 2x4gb Team Vulcan 2133mhz, the SST-ST45SF-G and to top it all off the Asus Geforce GTX 680 DCII TOP graphics card :)

Rear fan is the 92mm off the Noctua, and as you can see instead of using the 120mm on the Noctua I put it on the side panel for now.

Need to make up a new raid and transfer 1.5TB of data tomorrow, currently installing apps and drivers to a fresh Windows :)
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can you still use all the ports of the front i/o with that monster card installed?
 
Series^ said:
Rear fan is the 92mm off the Noctua, and as you can see instead of using the 120mm on the Noctua I put it on the side panel for now.
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I´m planning to do the same with noctua NH-L12 or to use Zalman CNPS8900 quiet.

How many space is there from heat-pipes to the side of the case? Is L12 performing well with 120mm fan away from it?
 
busterben said:
can you still use all the ports of the front i/o with that monster card installed?
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Sadly, no. This picture explains it :)

I don't need the front ports since my mic is always connected to the back along with my amplifier, to which my headphones are connected to, and I don't even own USB3 peripherals :D

Proglin said:
How many space is there from heat-pipes to the side of the case? Is L12 performing well with 120mm fan away from it?
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If you look at this picture, you could fit two of those 120mm Noctuas ontop of eachtother and still have a tiny gap between them and the CPU heatsink.

The NH-L12 is doing a better job than I hoped, I have the 2600k @ 4.5ghz on 1.37v and have yet not seen 80c in gaming. Obviously if the fan had a shroud it'd work better and I'm pushing high clocks for a package this small, but the performance is there. It'd do even better if there were both separate side and rear panel fans instead and the Noctua's own would be on the heatsink, but that's for later :)
 
Series^ said:
If you look at this picture, you could fit two of those 120mm Noctuas ontop of eachtother and still have a tiny gap between them and the CPU heatsink.

The NH-L12 is doing a better job than I hoped, I have the 2600k @ 4.5ghz on 1.37v and have yet not seen 80c in gaming. Obviously if the fan had a shroud it'd work better and I'm pushing high clocks for a package this small, but the performance is there.
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Great! Is there any space to a top small fan? (pushing hot air outside)

I didn´t understand this part:
It'd do even better if there were both separate side and rear panel fans instead and the Noctua's own would be on the heatsink, but that's for later :)
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Proglin said:
Great! Is there any space to a top small fan? (pushing hot air outside)
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For a slim fan, yes. Not sure about a 25mm thick.

Proglin said:
I didn´t understand this part:
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Sorry, english isn't my native language, I'll try to explain it better :)

The Noctua NH-L12 comes with a 120mm fan and a 92mm fan.

I took the 92mm and put it as an exhaust in the rear 92mm fan slot, and the 120mm as an intake in the sidepanel 120mm fan slot.

If I had used the Noctua's fans on the heatsink itself AND separate 120mm + 92mm intake/exhaust fans I'd get better temps, or lower fan noise :p
 
Rezot said:
This is the only reason I haven't done it yet, i'm afraid :p

However, if no one else has done it in the next couple of days, I guess I could disassemble my build and give it a try for you Grazina.


And just for everyone wanting a better picture of the tightness with the H100i,**
The build now is a lot better imo. Replaced it with the NH L9i.

Noise wise, I haven't really noticed too much of a difference(however I either have IEM's in, or the television on, so II wouldn't take my word for it on that.
Temps were a little scary at first. But I have it under control now.(was hoping to get away without mounting an intake fan :p)
H100i - idle 25 ¬ load 35
NH L9i - idle 45 ¬ load 80
NH L9i(with fans!) - idle 35 ¬ load 45

**nb: if necere is reading - I tried to mount it as you showed with the H60, however the tubing didn't bend enough for me, maybe i'm being too gentle, but I wouldn't trust myself forcing it into place, and potentially ruining ~£2000 worth of equipment.
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What intake fans are you running, and where are they mounted?
 
case: 2X H100i stock fans (not sure on what the actual model is called). Both intake on the right side panel(feeding into the CPU fan).
cpu cooler: NF-A9x14 PWM
 
So, finally got settled in one place and had chance to mess about this afternoon. Dug out an actual camera instead of using my potato-phone and tried out all of the physically possible variations that the H100i could be placed at inside the case. And who would have thought it, Necere was right! This is the best orientation. the cables are still kinked a little, but nothing to impede water flow.

Here is a better view of what I was trying to show previously, when I was saying there isn't enough room.(note this is with fans on the outer edge). With the fans on the inside it actually is sustainable in this orientation, but temps are +/- 5C higher. due to sub-optimal intake(Will post list of orientations and average temps at the end of the post),

Bonus album of pictures for those still following: http://imgur.com/a/r5pfw
(none of the internals now i'm afraid, as still awaiting custom psu cables, and the routing inside is a fucking nightmare currently. May re-open the case and take a few later on throughout the week if I get bored)

Average temps
(note these are not officially tested or accurate at all. Idle temps gauged by my eye post-boot, and Load temps gauged whilst watching twitch stream,whilst on a skype call, and playing a game).
Pull Setting - Outside - Straight - Inoperable due to kink.
Pull Setting - Outside - Spiral - 29 Idle / 37 Load
Push Setting - Outside - Straight - 32 Idle / 38 Load
Push Setting - Outside - Spiral - 33 Idle / 40 Load
Pull Setting - Inside - Straight - 36 Idle / 45 Load
Pull Setting - Inside - Spiral - Inoperable due to fan position
Push Setting - Inside - Straight - 40 Idle / 48 Load
Push Setting - Inside - Spiral - Inoperable due to fan position
 
Rezot said:
Here is a better view of what I was trying to show previously, when I was saying there isn't enough room.(note this is with fans on the outer edge).
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Those tubes are kinked pretty bad, glad I decided to wait for the MSI ITX and go custom loop with 90 degree fittings off a ST30 rad. It doesnt seem to be effecting your temps to bad though. Nice build and thanks for posting the info !:D
 
drklu said:
Those tubes are kinked pretty bad, glad I decided to wait for the MSI ITX and go custom loop with 90 degree fittings off a ST30 rad. It doesnt seem to be effecting your temps to bad though. Nice build and thanks for posting the info !:D
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I didn't dare turn the pc on with it kinked like that, so I can't tell you what the temp ranges were at using that setup. But yeah, if you're experienced enough to build your own, I would recommend it, otherwise use the "spiral" method necere stated earlier in the thread.
 
Rezot said:
I didn't dare turn the pc on with it kinked like that, so I can't tell you what the temp ranges were at using that setup. But yeah, if you're experienced enough to build your own, I would recommend it, otherwise use the "spiral" method necere stated earlier in the thread.
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Yeah really I kind am set on it now. i have a frozen q M1 res on its way and am just waiting for a (new) motherboard to release that is compatible with the AD2.
 
Rezot said:
So, finally got settled in one place and had chance to mess about this afternoon. Dug out an actual camera instead of using my potato-phone and tried out all of the physically possible variations that the H100i could be placed at inside the case. And who would have thought it, Necere was right! This is the best orientation. the cables are still kinked a little, but nothing to impede water flow.

Here is a better view of what I was trying to show previously, when I was saying there isn't enough room.(note this is with fans on the outer edge). With the fans on the inside it actually is sustainable in this orientation, but temps are +/- 5C higher. due to sub-optimal intake(Will post list of orientations and average temps at the end of the post),
Click to expand...

You're probably better off mounting the radiator to the side of the case intead of the fans, and mounting the fans on the other side of the radiator to let them pull the air through. Makes no difference in temperatures but will give your tubing a longer corner, probably avoiding the kink altogether! To avoid cables getting stuck in them get yourself some 120 mm fan grills.
;)
 
I just got my H100i today I have no clue how I'm going to fit it in the case with the Asrock Z87e-ITX. I just doesn't seem like there is enough give in the tubing for it to work and having both tubes connect to the same side of the block limits mobility more than I had pictured. Oh well, we'll see once the case gets here.
 
I was gonna go with the Impact V, but the truth is that the comments about the sound board not being up to the quality promised kinda put me off. And the Asus GTX 780 Ti DCII won't fit and I kinda want to keep board and gpu in the same family.
Looking forward to the reviews of the new MSI ITX board and the new gtx 780 ti gaming edition looks amazing and will fir inside the M1. The only thing I dislike about the board is the layout of all the conectors, and the cpu socket once again make me think if either the Noctua nh-c14 or the h220 block will fit.
Anybody you gets the board please put some pictures up.
 
Well I started to put together my case. Mounted my H220 for the first time - it's been in it's box forever. Recently read that it has interference with Asrock Z77E-ITX motherboard. Saw some posts that said it lightly touched the VRM headsink, so I mounted it to conform it does indeed interfere with it. So I pulled off the block/pump, popped off the headsink, and filed it down some, and now it fits great :)

IMG_20131211_182025.jpg
IMG_20131211_183156.jpg


So if you're a DIYer, it will work fine as long as you have real low profile memory sticks, and file your VRM heatsink.
 
Smitty2k1 said:
Looks great. You really put a lot of time and effort in. Why go with the h80i and not something else? Still trying to decide my cooling.
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The H80i gives you the same cooling performance* of the H100i and you still keep the right part of the side bracket to put stuff like hard disks or fans, or even an ATX psu.


I have seem a couple of head-to-head tests where the H100i comes on top by 2-3 degree celcius, and another one where the H80i fares better. Whatever the best is, the diference is very small to affect overclocking performance. The tests are all conducted with the H80i fitted in push-pull configuration and with the two 25mm fans, so performance will defenetly be worst with only one fan or with a 25+12mm fan combo. Still I think the performance penalty is not that big.
 
cowsgomoo said:
What special screws did you use to mount the h80i bare-die? I tried it with the default screws before but the H80i applied too little pressure on the die, such that it doesn't boot or one ram stick wasn't detected.
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that happened to me too.

I used the screws that came with the H80i but I had to use washers on both sides of the motherboard ( two washers per screw, one at the back another one at the front of the mb ). One set of washers came with the Asus Impact mb and the other set I had it on my toolbox. The nut's are from another cooler, I think from the mounting system of the aquacomputer water blocks.
 
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finas said:
that happened to me too.

I used the screws that came with the H80i but I had to use washers on both sides of the motherboard ( two washers per screw, one at the back another one at the front of the mb ). One set of washers came with the Asus Impact mb and the other set I had it on my toolbox. The nut's are from another cooler, I think from the mounting system of the aquacomputer whater blocks.
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v3hp.png


These screws elevated the clamp too much. Were your nuts the thing that solved that problem?
 
cowsgomoo said:
Wait, the other set is for LG2011. They don't fit the backplate?

Edit: Oh I get it now... You used your own nuts for the thicker side of the smaller screws...
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that was it. I was lucky to have a spare set that fitted the screws.
 
cowsgomoo said:
Well I'll be on a quest to look for those. Running bare die is a nerd's wet dream.
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http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2822

Bare-die is the way to go when it comes to cooling performance. It's at least a 10 degree celcius improvement ( With my cpu I saw a 15 degree celcius improvement ). It went from 98 degrees to 77 on load ( prime95 avx2, overclocked to 4.8 ).

The only reason intel and amd started using "heatspreaders" on the cpu's was to save the core from chipping by bad handling or poor thermal paste. Heatspreader is a very bad and misleading term for what should have been called heat-barrier or maybe to name it after it's true use, core-shield :)
 
Yeah those things are horrid, they should have made them better and use better paste. If I ever consider watercooling for the CPU, I'll probably also delid it. But considering a large aircooler is hanging off of it, no thx. I can also live with 60°C on air, stock.
 
Phuncz said:
Yeah those things are horrid, they should have made them better and use better paste. If I ever consider watercooling for the CPU, I'll probably also delid it. But considering a large aircooler is hanging off of it, no thx. I can also live with 60°C on air, stock.
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I put a huge amount of pressure on the core with the block, and I have been doing this for years with no problems really. The core is very resistent to compression, the problem is really impact from blows or falls.
 
finas said:
http://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=2822

Bare-die is the way to go when it comes to cooling performance. It's at least a 10 degree celcius improvement ( With my cpu I saw a 15 degree celcius improvement ). It went from 98 degrees to 77 on load ( prime95 avx2, overclocked to 4.8 ).

The only reason intel and amd started using "heatspreaders" on the cpu's was to save the core from chipping by bad handling or poor thermal paste. Heatspreader is a very bad and misleading term for what should have been called heat-barrier or maybe to name it after it's true use, core-shield :)
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Searching your link, those nuts seem to be M4 knurled nuts according to this website:
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_in...ocket-2011-for-all-cuplex-PRO-and-cuplex.html
I'll order the nuts from FrozenCPU and try them out.
 
cowsgomoo said:
Searching your link, those nuts seem to be M4 knurled nuts according to this website:
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_in...ocket-2011-for-all-cuplex-PRO-and-cuplex.html
I'll order the nuts from FrozenCPU and try them out.
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Don't forget to order IC cooling diamond thermal paste. It's the best themal paste with no doubts. I've tried most of the most talked ones and for me IC allways cames on top by a good margin. It also has the advantage of being thick so it will not bleed with time.
 
Can I just use any sandpaper to lap the copper block or do I have to pay attention to the grit?
And I use Coollaboratory pro/ultra just like all the cool kids at overclock.net do. :rolleyes:
 
cowsgomoo said:
Can I just use any sandpaper to lap the copper block or do I have to pay attention to the grit?
And I use Coollaboratory pro/ultra just like all the cool kids at overclock.net do. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

There is a README.txt file on the shared folder where I wrote some notes about the build, and the paper grit is mentioned.

I used 1000,1500,2000,2500,3000,5000 and 7000 grit paper ( in this order ). I secured the paper to a glass using adesive tape and then sanded down the copper plate for about 15-20 minutes with each paper. The most important one is the 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit that will flatten the plate. The others will make it look like a mirror, and this is less important when it comes to cooling performance.

You will have to take care with the coollaboratory as as far as I know, it is electrically conductive and you will have to insulate the capacitors that are on top of the cpu.
The pro/ultra is something like 0.3 or 0.5 degree celcius better than the ic diamond and it's really not worth the hassle in my opinion.
 
Really a great looking case. I actually have a chance to pick one up, though I just bought a 3930k, so it looks like I'm going down the matx route. If only the makers of the m1 made a matx variant...
 
CallMePatto said:
Really a great looking case. I actually have a chance to pick one up, though I just bought a 3930k, so it looks like I'm going down the matx route. If only the makers of the m1 made a matx variant...
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Necere once recommended the SilverStone SG09/10 to someone who asked him to do an mATX case.
 
Finally got my order in. So far I don't have any major issues the the Z87I GAMING besides some nitpicking about the board layout. I had bought the RAM so I wanted a matching mobo after realizing that the Impact isn't as great as it should have been.

I'll be running it like this until someone gets the flat cables back in stock:
1n0zaYT.jpg
 
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