NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

i want to do something similar to this but to have the acrylic panel on stand offs so its not fully flush onto the case to let in air flow. any ideas to achieve this?

Should be very straight forward to do:

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RC car ball stud. These come in many sizes and are easy to purchase in hobby shops or online. Just choose one that fits the plastic retention clips on the frame.
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Some micro sized stand offs. Source these from Aliexpress or ebay. These are 12mm x 22mm for example.
 
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kinda what im going for. not flush but not gapped too much
 

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So i did some testing and I would like to share. I'm sorry if it all well known by now, i didnt keep up with all the posts in this thread. It's about the use of air cooling on GPUs in this case.

My system uses a I5-4670 with a noctua cooler, SF-600 PSU and a EVGA 1070 SC GPU (overclocked but I've kept the 100% power limit). 90mm noctua fan as exhaust in the back. I have to filter every intake due to a very dusty ambient.

I started by ducting the GPU fans to the bottom of the case. This leads to ok temps of like 75 ºC at load at 35% fan speed. Which is fine, but i did not like the fact that the GPU fans turned on even on light gaming (I play a lot of HotS). This GPU makes a hiss noise that is perceptible even at low fan speeds.

So i removed the ducts an instaled 2 NF-P12 fans at the bottom. This decreased idle temps by around 10 ºC, which is expected since the GPU fans do not come on at idle, and it fulfilled my objective of not turning on the GPU fans on when light gaming. The downside? Load temperatures got a lot worst. Reaches 80 ºC and surpass 50% fan speeds, which makes it noiser and hotter than ducting.

Not satisfied, i tried removing the GPU shroud, hoping to expose more fins to the noctua fans. Turns out in this specific card not many fins were hidden bellow the shroud, but i tried it anyway. No noticiable improvement on iddle, but it got worst in both light gaming and full load. So, if you have this card, don't waste your time doing this. Removing the shroud just make things worse.

Resuming, if you are looking for lower GPU temperatures/noise as possible on load scenarios, ducting the GPU fans are by far the best solution. Removing the the GPU shroud is detrimental in the case of this specific GPU.

I could provide pictures, if it is of any interest.

EDIT: I removed my recommendations to another user for options to better cool an open air GPU, as I understand all of that is already known by the community
 
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3. Im not sure about this, but having a lot of negative pressure may also solve the problem, using exhaust fans in the back and sides.

You mentioned your own dusty enviroment, and I will add (not a correction!) that negative pressure is going to suck air in through every crack- the more negative the pressure, the more unfiltered air, the more potential dust, etc.

Having run 'positive flow' systems for the last six+ years, I can definitely say that I prefer it as components come out almost perfect!
 
You mentioned your own dusty enviroment, and I will add (not a correction!) that negative pressure is going to suck air in through every crack- the more negative the pressure, the more unfiltered air, the more potential dust, etc.

Having run 'positive flow' systems for the last six+ years, I can definitely say that I prefer it as components come out almost perfect!
Yeah, I didn't even try it for the dust reason. And even if it wasn't for that, I think that's not a very elegant solution.
 
So i did some testing and I would like to share. I'm sorry if it all well known by now, i didnt keep up with all the posts in this thread. It's about the use of air cooling on GPUs in this case.

My system uses a I5-4670 with a noctua cooler, SF-600 PSU and a EVGA 1070 SC GPU (overclocked but I've kept the 100% power limit). 90mm noctua fan as exhaust in the back. I have to filter every intake due to a very dusty ambient.

I started by ducting the GPU fans to the bottom of the case. This leads to ok temps of like 75 ºC at load at 35% fan speed. Which is fine, but i did not like the fact that the GPU fans turned on even on light gaming (I play a lot of HotS). This GPU makes a hiss noise that is perceptible even at low fan speeds.

So i removed the ducts an instaled 2 NF-P12 fans at the bottom. This decreased idle temps by around 10 ºC, which is expected since the GPU fans do not come on at idle, and it fulfilled my objective of not turning on the GPU fans on when light gaming. The downside? Load temperatures got a lot worst. Reaches 80 ºC and surpass 50% fan speeds, which makes it noiser and hotter than ducting.

Not satisfied, i tried removing the GPU shroud, hoping to expose more fins to the noctua fans. Turns out in this specific card not many fins were hidden bellow the shroud, but i tried it anyway. No noticiable improvement on iddle, but it got worst in both light gaming and full load. So, if you have this card, don't waste your time doing this. Removing the shroud just make things worse.

Resuming, if you are looking for lower GPU temperatures/noise as possible on load scenarios, ducting the GPU fans are by far the best solution. Removing the the GPU shroud is detrimental in the case of this specific GPU.

I could provide pictures, if it is of any interest.

EDIT: I removed my recommendations to another user for options to better cool an open air GPU, as I understand all of that is already known by the community

Thanks for taking the time to conduct these tests and reporting your results. I know they will be helpful to others.
 
You mentioned your own dusty enviroment, and I will add (not a correction!) that negative pressure is going to suck air in through every crack- the more negative the pressure, the more unfiltered air, the more potential dust, etc.
Unless you know how to manage the intake... you can have a master intake with an air filter to catch most of dust in a single location.

Having run 'positive flow' systems for the last six+ years, I can definitely say that I prefer it as components come out almost perfect!
Harder to get a good air flow with positive though...
 
test run for 1060 without a backplate. has small magnets on the heatsink screws
 

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Got my sf-450 and nf-a15 in the post. Having the nf-a15 on the side panel seemed, at least at idle, to raise my temperatures vs just running the u9s. Not too worried about it, but strange. Also having a 150mm fan feeding it cold air did not seem to quiet down my old psu a bit. Looking forward to installing the sf-450.

Currently have this open air setup going to see if my GTX-970 would work with the bare minimum plugged in/with a new psu. No dice, fan spins but bios still shows the pci-e slot to be empty. Oh well. On the upside once I unplug the 970 everything is silent. Such an improvement over my old psu. Haven’t actually properly installed it into the case yet but still super happy with the sf-450.
 

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Not a fan of the Corsair cables. Didn’t really have the patience to properly sort out the backwards sata connectors so I just hooked up my front two drives and removed my rarely used 3.5” on the floor.
Everything is running fine. Unlike the first time I tried the nf-a15, the temperatures look good. Fans are running at 390~rpm for the u9s and 450 for the nf-a15. I can still hear it running but it’s way better than the noise of my old v2 Silverstone ST45SF.
 
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Not a fan of the Corsair cables. Didn’t really have the patience to properly sort out the backwards sata connectors so I just hooked up my front two drives and removed my rarely used 3.5” on the floor.
Everything is running fine. Unlike the first time I tried the nf-a15, the temperatures look good. Fans are running at 390~rpm for the u9s and 450 for the nf-a15. I can still hear it running but it’s way better than the noise of my old v2 Silverstone ST45SF.


Spend $40 and get this kit to save yourself a headache:

Corsair CP-8920202

Much easier to route and the SATA connections are not as dumb as the stock cables. Like you can actually plug two of them in side by side without worrying you're gonna break the connectors on the SATA drive.
 
One of my side panel windows came in. Apparently Silver gets delivered before Black. Fits very nicely. The glass is thicker than I expected, and the tape job was obviously hand done, but overall I think it looks and feels great. There's some good heft to it.

U9S is on the way and I look forward to doing temperature testing. C14 has to be benched for now in order to actually get some airflow going. No more holes there for it to breathe. Can anyone recommend a decent set of white case LED's?




20180529_143221.jpg
 
I have a problem with my NCASE M1 v4. I purchased this case second-hand, and it was in really nice condition except for one thing--one of the GPU mount holes (one of the two holes that the GPU bracket is attached with screws) was stripped--see the attached figure with the holes circled. This wasn't a huge deal since the other hole was OK, and I could secure the GPU with that one. Unfortunately, since I've replaced my GPU a couple of times, the other hole is now stripped, and my GPU is not very secure. I'll probably have to use something like a zip tie through one of the holes to secure the GPU.

upload_2018-5-29_16-22-48.png


Has anyone else run into this problem? I've searched through this discussion thread and not seen anyone else mention this problem with the M1.

Today, I was perusing the discussion forums on the SFF Network. I decided to check out their main page and came across a "Meet the Creators" interview with Necere, and noted this quote from him...

"A new revision is certainly a possibility, though the only likely changes are minor fixes/improvements. Stuff like making a removable GPU retention tab, so if the threads get stripped out it’s much cheaper and simpler to send out a replacement."

I guess there's no way to fix a v4.
 
I have a problem with my NCASE M1 v4. I purchased this case second-hand, and it was in really nice condition except for one thing--one of the GPU mount holes (one of the two holes that the GPU bracket is attached with screws) was stripped--see the attached figure with the holes circled. This wasn't a huge deal since the other hole was OK, and I could secure the GPU with that one. Unfortunately, since I've replaced my GPU a couple of times, the other hole is now stripped, and my GPU is not very secure. I'll probably have to use something like a zip tie through one of the holes to secure the GPU.

View attachment 77407

Has anyone else run into this problem? I've searched through this discussion thread and not seen anyone else mention this problem with the M1.

Today, I was perusing the discussion forums on the SFF Network. I decided to check out their main page and came across a "Meet the Creators" interview with Necere, and noted this quote from him...

"A new revision is certainly a possibility, though the only likely changes are minor fixes/improvements. Stuff like making a removable GPU retention tab, so if the threads get stripped out it’s much cheaper and simpler to send out a replacement."

I guess there's no way to fix a v4.

I just posted before you moments ago. If you notice on my V5 picture above, I also don't have screws attached holding in the GPU. Bracket is stripped to hell and screws do nothing at this point. I literally ordered a brand new case today because of this.
 
I have a problem with my NCASE M1 v4. I purchased this case second-hand, and it was in really nice condition except for one thing--one of the GPU mount holes (one of the two holes that the GPU bracket is attached with screws) was stripped--see the attached figure with the holes circled. This wasn't a huge deal since the other hole was OK, and I could secure the GPU with that one. Unfortunately, since I've replaced my GPU a couple of times, the other hole is now stripped, and my GPU is not very secure. I'll probably have to use something like a zip tie through one of the holes to secure the GPU.

View attachment 77407

Has anyone else run into this problem? I've searched through this discussion thread and not seen anyone else mention this problem with the M1.

Today, I was perusing the discussion forums on the SFF Network. I decided to check out their main page and came across a "Meet the Creators" interview with Necere, and noted this quote from him...

"A new revision is certainly a possibility, though the only likely changes are minor fixes/improvements. Stuff like making a removable GPU retention tab, so if the threads get stripped out it’s much cheaper and simpler to send out a replacement."

I guess there's no way to fix a v4.

Can you try to tap a new thread? Or use a larger thread screw, like a thumbscrew, to get it in there. Be gentle of course. You could even cut a larger hole into your GPU bracket to get an even larger screw in. That's what I used to do on my first Lian Li cases back when I was a derp and stripped the screw holes by dismantling and cleaning way too much.
 
One of my side panel windows came in. Apparently Silver gets delivered before Black. Fits very nicely. The glass is thicker than I expected, and the tape job was obviously hand done, but overall I think it looks and feels great. There's some good heft to it.

View attachment 77406

Today I received my black and silver window panels. Canada Post delivered them right to my door and both glass panels are undamaged. Below are some photos of the packaging. Note: in the 4th photo those are not scratches near the attachment pin, just cat hair.

1 - Packaging as delivered.jpeg 2 - Inside the Box.jpeg 3 - Window Panel.jpeg 4 - Close-up of corner.jpeg
 
I just posted before you moments ago. If you notice on my V5 picture above, I also don't have screws attached holding in the GPU. Bracket is stripped to hell and screws do nothing at this point. I literally ordered a brand new case today because of this.

Ouch! That's a $200+ solution. I absolutely love the case, but I can't really afford to get another one.

Can you try to tap a new thread? Or use a larger thread screw, like a thumbscrew, to get it in there. Be gentle of course. You could even cut a larger hole into your GPU bracket to get an even larger screw in. That's what I used to do on my first Lian Li cases back when I was a derp and stripped the screw holes by dismantling and cleaning way too much.

I tried a slightly larger screw, but it didn't want to go in easily--and I didn't want to make the problem worse. I haven't tried tapping a thread for a larger size screw as I don't have the correct tools.
 
Can you try to tap a new thread? Or use a larger thread screw, like a thumbscrew, to get it in there. Be gentle of course. You could even cut a larger hole into your GPU bracket to get an even larger screw in. That's what I used to do on my first Lian Li cases back when I was a derp and stripped the screw holes by dismantling and cleaning way too much.

Other options would be a sheet metal screw that is slightly larger than the hole or a short bolt and nut combination (plus a lock washer).
 
You could also try to use a slightly longer screw and use a nut.
I have a problem with my NCASE M1 v4. I purchased this case second-hand, and it was in really nice condition except for one thing--one of the GPU mount holes (one of the two holes that the GPU bracket is attached with screws) was stripped--see the attached figure with the holes circled. This wasn't a huge deal since the other hole was OK, and I could secure the GPU with that one. Unfortunately, since I've replaced my GPU a couple of times, the other hole is now stripped, and my GPU is not very secure. I'll probably have to use something like a zip tie through one of the holes to secure the GPU.

View attachment 77407

Has anyone else run into this problem? I've searched through this discussion thread and not seen anyone else mention this problem with the M1.

Today, I was perusing the discussion forums on the SFF Network. I decided to check out their main page and came across a "Meet the Creators" interview with Necere, and noted this quote from him...

"A new revision is certainly a possibility, though the only likely changes are minor fixes/improvements. Stuff like making a removable GPU retention tab, so if the threads get stripped out it’s much cheaper and simpler to send out a replacement."

I guess there's no way to fix a v4.
 
Ouch! That's a $200+ solution. I absolutely love the case, but I can't really afford to get another one.

$260 shipped! RIP my soul.

It was time for a new one though. I'm one of those obsessive types that takes the whole thing apart once a month to clean it. I scratched the front IO. I ruined the gpu screws and bracket. I bent the frame. Lost half the stuff that goes with it. It was time for a new one =P

But others here have made very good suggestions on a GPU issue. Two screws with nuts should easily do the trick.
 
I have a problem with my NCASE M1 v4. I purchased this case second-hand, and it was in really nice condition except for one thing--one of the GPU mount holes (one of the two holes that the GPU bracket is attached with screws) was stripped--see the attached figure with the holes circled...

I guess there's no way to fix a v4.

I ran into this problem on my V1 with one of the screws that hold the side bracket. (One of the ones on the back) I have been trying to figure out a good solution, unfortunately a bolt won’t work because the side bracket is in the way of where the wrench would go to hold the nut whiIe screwing in the bolt. I love this case, but sooner or later screws + aluminum = stripped threads. It’s just something you have to be extra careful about when you have an aluminum case. Even if you never cross thread the screws, the threads can eventually fail. (especially if you tighten the screws really tight)
 
I ran into this problem on my V1 with one of the screws that hold the side bracket. (One of the ones on the back) I have been trying to figure out a good solution, unfortunately a bolt won’t work because the side bracket is in the way of where the wrench would go to hold the nut whiIe screwing in the bolt. I love this case, but sooner or later screws + aluminum = stripped threads. It’s just something you have to be extra careful about when you have an aluminum case. Even if you never cross thread the screws, the threads can eventually fail. (especially if you tighten the screws really tight)
Would something like this work?
 
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wish the side panels designed like the dan a4...least there would be some air flow

I guess the difference is, with the M1 there are other intake options. With the Dan it seems like the holes in the side panels are literally necessary, lest there would be zero airflow.
 
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