NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Hi guys, I'm really confused! I just got a PALIT GeForce® GTX 1080 JetStream coming next week but I have a feeling it doesn't fit in my NCASE M1 but can you guys confirm this for me please?
The board Size is 285mm x 133mm
Thanks in advance to all prompt replies!
 
c4104e48b2.jpg

And thus concludes my move to air cooling, have to say I am very pleased. Ended up having to get some 20X120mm fans to fit under the Gelid Ice Vision, not many to choose from so got some Deepcool Gamer Storm. Not bad fans, especially at $8. PMW, 800-1800rpm, 62CFM, 32 dBA at load. Running them at 1000 rpm at idle and they are very quiet, I can hear them at load but still very quiet. Load temps are 65C, I was hoping for a bit better but that is 15C cooler than the reference and very acceptable.

Should have gone with the Arctic Accelero III, larger heatsink and clearance for 25mm fans. Oh well this should work well. I can say anyone with a 1070/1080 FE that Gelid makes a nice VRM heatsink if you are going for the Accelero.

The Dark Rock TF is fantastic, even at load the fans are quiet as a mouse.
 
come on man this is [H] drill some!
Fair enough, figured he probably did that :woot:

Heres my window mod; basically used a dremel to make the cut, edge trimp ( also called uchannel, to hide marks) and tempered glass from a stand that fits perfectly (cheaper than ordering a piece of Tem Glass online)

Heres the stand (you want the small stand)

https://www.amazon.com/Huntz-Tradin...05&sr=1-1&keywords=tempered+glass+stand+small

And no I don't know or affiliated with them, I just took a chance after reading the measurements and worked out (was worried the piece of glass was too small but fits pretty good tho just test run). Bottom cut little off and probably need to recut and the edge trim was too big so might have to order smaller for more pro look. Those are my old LEDs, gonna put in a Hue+ and maybe flip the D9L to push heat out the top.



Untitled.png Untitled.png
 
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Hi guys, I'm really confused! I just got a PALIT GeForce® GTX 1080 JetStream coming next week but I have a feeling it doesn't fit in my NCASE M1 but can you guys confirm this for me please?
The board Size is 285mm x 133mm
Thanks in advance to all prompt replies!

Anyone know, pretty please?
 
Anyone know, pretty please?
I'm going to say no, unfortunately :(

The problem is it has a tall PCB (133mm) and the PCIe power connectors aren't recessed. They need about 20mm (15mm at an absolute minimum), and with 140mm total width available in the M1, that only leaves 7mm. Even low profile PEG connectors won't help, since they're still ~10mm.

In addition to that, the thicknes (i.e., number of slots it takes up) might be an issue (hard to say definitively).
 
Thanks for that reply Necere
I'll have to send it back! :(
I didn't know that you had to take the power connection size into consideration!
 
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http://imgur.com/a/k9I59 Thought I would share this, found the link on another site. The guy is watercooling his Ncase with a removable reservoir, I have to say it is a really nice clean build.
I know how parallel cooling works and that it does work, but everytime I see it I always think that water is going to go right through the GPU.
 
http://imgur.com/a/k9I59 Thought I would share this, found the link on another site. The guy is watercooling his Ncase with a removable reservoir, I have to say it is a really nice clean build.
I know how parallel cooling works and that it does work, but everytime I see it I always think that water is going to go right through the GPU.

That removable reservoir is... Pretty stinking close to genius. I would love to know how reliable it is at bleeding air in real life.
 
http://imgur.com/a/k9I59 Thought I would share this, found the link on another site. The guy is watercooling his Ncase with a removable reservoir, I have to say it is a really nice clean build.
I know how parallel cooling works and that it does work, but everytime I see it I always think that water is going to go right through the GPU.
Great find!

I love the idea of pre-bleeding and maintenance using the external res. Such clever thinking.
I honestly can't fathom how the parallel loop works - I'm usually quite good with new concepts but it just wrinkles my brain..
 
Great find!

I love the idea of pre-bleeding and maintenance using the external res. Such clever thinking.
I honestly can't fathom how the parallel loop works - I'm usually quite good with new concepts but it just wrinkles my brain..

serial_vs_parallel_flow.jpg


Reading up on this apparently the biggest problem with a CPU and GPU in parallel is having equal restriction on the 2 blocks. The water will flow better to the one with least restriction.
 
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Of all the amazing watercooling I have seen in M1's thus far, that link takes to cake for my favorite thus far. Something about it's simplicity makes me want to do the exact same thing in my build.
 
Of all the amazing watercooling I have seen in M1's thus far, that link takes to cake for my favorite thus far. Something about it's simplicity makes me want to do the exact same thing in my build.

I would love to know what kind of temps he gets with that setup but you are right, that is one of the nicest setups for water cooling I have seen.
 
Fair enough, figured he probably did that :woot:

Heres my window mod; basically used a dremel to make the cut, edge trimp ( also called uchannel, to hide marks) and tempered glass from a stand that fits perfectly (cheaper than ordering a piece of Tem Glass online)

Heres the stand (you want the small stand)

https://www.amazon.com/Huntz-Tradin...05&sr=1-1&keywords=tempered+glass+stand+small

And no I don't know or affiliated with them, I just took a chance after reading the measurements and worked out (was worried the piece of glass was too small but fits pretty good tho just test run). Bottom cut little off and probably need to recut and the edge trim was too big so might have to order smaller for more pro look. Those are my old LEDs, gonna put in a Hue+ and maybe flip the D9L to push heat out the top.



View attachment 28570 View attachment 28569

It was clever of you to purchase the stand for the glass. How did you remove the glass from the ends with the legs?
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
It was clever of you to purchase the stand for the glass. How did you remove the glass from the ends with the legs?
Just pull it out, its just slotted in the plastic with nothing holding it in so little pull and its out.
 
http://imgur.com/a/k9I59 Thought I would share this, found the link on another site. The guy is watercooling his Ncase with a removable reservoir, I have to say it is a really nice clean build.
I know how parallel cooling works and that it does work, but everytime I see it I always think that water is going to go right through the GPU.
So clean. This got me thinking about getting parallel to work for two radiators (rear and bottom). Thanks for sharing!
 
Here's a parallel set up...
Idle temps are 30s
CPU load temps up to 80
GPU load temps up to 70

Will try parallel with the 92mm rad next.

IMG_3415.JPG
 
Has anyone tried fitting the EVGA FTW3 1080 ti inside the case?

Too tall, 5.63" you only have 5.50" available. Plus the power connectors are at the very top of the PCB.

The EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition is only 4.38" and should fit easily.
 
Too tall, 5.63" you only have 5.50" available. Plus the power connectors are at the very top of the PCB.

The EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition is only 4.38" and should fit easily.

That was a bummer, i like the fact that this 1080 ti was a 2 slot card compared to the Strix..
 
c4104e48b2.jpg

And thus concludes my move to air cooling, have to say I am very pleased. Ended up having to get some 20X120mm fans to fit under the Gelid Ice Vision, not many to choose from so got some Deepcool Gamer Storm. Not bad fans, especially at $8. PMW, 800-1800rpm, 62CFM, 32 dBA at load. Running them at 1000 rpm at idle and they are very quiet, I can hear them at load but still very quiet. Load temps are 65C, I was hoping for a bit better but that is 15C cooler than the reference and very acceptable.

Should have gone with the Arctic Accelero III, larger heatsink and clearance for 25mm fans. Oh well this should work well. I can say anyone with a 1070/1080 FE that Gelid makes a nice VRM heatsink if you are going for the Accelero.

The Dark Rock TF is fantastic, even at load the fans are quiet as a mouse.

Congrats on the beautiful air cooling build..
I want to do a similar build and I have some questions if I may..
What motherboard is that? Is it the ASRock Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming-ITX/ac
Does the Dark Rock TF hitting the GPU and causing the sag ? can I use a GPU with a backplate in a similar setup?
Can I use the 3.5" drive caddy alongside the Dark rock TD cooler?
Thank you
 
Congrats on the beautiful air cooling build..
I want to do a similar build and I have some questions if I may..
What motherboard is that? Is it the ASRock Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming-ITX/ac
Does the Dark Rock TF hitting the GPU and causing the sag ? can I use a GPU with a backplate in a similar setup?
Can I use the 3.5" drive caddy alongside the Dark rock TD cooler?
Thank you
you can use the dark rock with a backplate gpu, and the hdd caddy. and it doesnt cause gpu sag for me, it just touches it, doesnt really push down on it.
http://imgur.com/a/sWcmh

my mobo is a asus p8z77-i deluxe/wd
 
Congrats on the beautiful air cooling build..
I want to do a similar build and I have some questions if I may..
What motherboard is that? Is it the ASRock Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming-ITX/ac
Does the Dark Rock TF hitting the GPU and causing the sag ? can I use a GPU with a backplate in a similar setup?
Can I use the 3.5" drive caddy alongside the Dark rock TD cooler?
Thank you

Yes it is the Asrock and like No Hands said it does not touch the GPU but is close. I do think you could use a GPU with a backplate on this motherboard. The lower heatsink on the Dark Rock does push on the inner ram slot a bit, it works fine, just to let you know. Glad he answered about the 3.5 drive caddy, I figured it would fit but had not tried it.

The Dark Rock does cool excellently, and is extremely quiet.
 
Looks good, have you checked temps yet?

I'm still waiting on my new power supply fan to get in right now, but here's a screencap of temps after 9 straight hours of PUBG. The non-psu fans take my noise level up to just under 40 dBA (from a baseline of ~38.2), so I'm extremely pleased with my current results. I know I could get lower temps, but they're low enough while still maintaining a good volume for me.

Now I just gotta wait to see if the new Noctua fan actually lives up to the hype when it (hopefully) comes out later this year.
 
Ok I kept the parallel setup, and it's working well so far.

I added back the 92mm rear radiator, a coolant temperature sensor connecting to the motherboard. Fans speed controlled by water temperature. Bottom radiator now push pull exhaust. Rear fan is exhuast. Added a top intake fan.

Temperatures after one hour of torture test:
CPU load temperature 70c
GPU load temperature 60c
Water temp 43c
Ambient temp 23c

IMG_3463.JPG
 
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Ok I kept the parallel setup, and it's working well so far.

I added back the 92mm rear radiator, a coolant temperature sensor connecting to the motherboard. Fans speed controlled by water temperature. Bottom radiator now push pull exhaust. Rear fan is exhuast. Added a top intake fan.

Temperatures after one hour of torture test:
CPU load temperature 70c
GPU load temperature 60c
Water temp 43c
Ambient temp 23c


Damn looking good Nanook, those are much more reasonable temps.
 
Sharing my NCASE M1 v5 build.

- Noctua NH-U9S (NF-A9)
- EVGA Hybrid AIO (120mm x 27mm rad) + Corsair ML120 Pro (120mm x 25mm exhaust)
- Noctua NF-A9 x 2 as chassis fan (rear and bottom-front, both intake)
- Corsair SF600 + original cables
- WD Black 3.5' 4TB (bottom-back of case)
- i7 7700k
- GTX 1080 Ti FE
- Asus ROG Strix 270i
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 CL16 2x8GB
- Samsung Evo 960 M.2 1TB (top of mobo)
- Acer X34 (3440x1440)

Temperatures:
- Room temp: 22C
- Prime95 SFFT: 78C (CPU)
- Unigine Heaven: 53C (GPU @ +150core/+500mem/120%power, ~2012MHz core maintained)
- Games: <=55C (GPU), 48~58C (CPU), ~2000MHz core maintained.

Fan curves (SpeedFan):
- ML120 Pro to AIO Pump header - 40% @ system idle, 100% @ GPU >52C, 60% @ CPU >60C
- NF-A9 x 2 to Chassis fan header - 30% @ system idle, 60% @ GPU >50C, 60% @ CPU 60C, 100% @ CPU >80C
- NF-A9 x 1 to CPU fan header - 30% @ system idle, 60% @ GPU >50C, 100% @ CPU >70C
- GPU blower fan - 30% @ 40C, 60% @ 50C, 100% @ >70C.

Comments/Observations:
- CPU fan blows warm air into GPU rad adding +6C to GPU temp, but GPU able to maintain <=55C under load.
- GPU rad fan acts as exhaust for CPU and other components.
- Loudest noise is air rushing through vents via NF-A9. The fans themselves are quiet (CPU fan is whisper quite at 100%). Corsair ML120 Pro is moderately loud but the low tone makes it more tolerable than the NF-A9.
- Bottom NF-A9 as intake seems to reduce MOSFET/VRM temps (judging from touching backplate with and without fan during stress test).
- Rear NF-A9 as intake improves CPU by 5C, but your mileage may vary.
- Bottom and rear NF-A9 does not appear to have effect on GPU temp.
- Stiff cables that came with SF600 was able to be managed in my design, but again your mileage may vary.
- HDD remains cool at 30~40C.
- PCH remains at 49C.
- Have attempted rad fan as intake and all other fans as exhaust - CPU reached 78C during gaming (15~40% load). Never. Again.
- Fan curve chosen to minimise noise as much as possible.


35158528570_ecac5f7020_b.jpg

34736548173_9b36835258_b.jpg
 
I would like to share my build here, because it's different from all the M1 builds I have seen so far. For planning this build, this thread was a great help to me, so maybe I can inspire someone too. I wanted to have a quiet air-cooled setup, suitable for 24/7 heavy load (gaming, cryptomining, BOINC calculations, photo editing, and basically everything).

Removing the front I/O panel, and installing a Noctua NF-A9 PWM fan in the front, has created a very effective front-to-back airflow around the GPU. GPU cooling is the most difficult part of an M1 build after all. For some reason, the M1 has two holes in the front which are perfect for mounting a 92mm fan. On the bottom, I have secured the fan with two cable ties to the empty screw holes of the front I/O panel. The fan has enough room to draw the air in. There is a little over 2 cm room between the fan and front panel, and obviously the bottom cut-out for the front I/O panel is where the air gets sucked in. You can feel that if you hold your hand close.
The front USB and audio ports are not useful for me anyway - my monitor has a USB 3 hub, and I use a USB DAC for audio - and since the system is mostly on 24/7, having to relocate the power switch to the back wasn't a problem either. It also cuts down on cable clutter.

1Q3hoHkl.jpg


3xAZHMjl.jpg


UNRPM9Pl.jpg


I left all the holes on the back of the case open as much as possible, and you can feel the hot air exhausting through there. I would definitely recommend this cooling setup, if you can live without the front I/O panel.
I got a 25mm power switch from eBay, which has a high-quality feel to it, to go into one of the water cooling holes on the back, and also bought a cheap replacement power switch, just to get the cables with appropriate little mobo plug, and soldered those to the good power switch. It's almost a shame that I don't get to press this fine switch that often. :)

lGRUaw3l.jpg


The temps are pretty good for the CPU and GPU: 60~65C and ~72C respectively under load at very reasonable fan speeds and noise. These are real-world loads, not synthetic. Especially the CPU can draw much more power under synthetic load at 3.8 GHz, but this is not very important in comparison to 'normal' heavy use. Unfortunately, the SSD on the back of the mobo can also get up to 65C when the ambient temperature is high, like 30C. Usually it's around 57C, but this is not under heavy load or anything. It's rated for up to 70C luckily, and I can't really do anything about this. There is simply no airflow on the back of the mobo.


Specs:
Mobo: Biostar X370GTN (has been pretty good so far)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 1700X @ 3.8 GHz
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2×8 GB @ 2933 MHz (could not get it to boot on the 3200 MHz it's rated for unfortunately)
GPU: MSI Gaming RX480 (huge, but very quiet thanks to 100mm fans and passive mode)
SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB
PSU: Corsair SF450 (side intake, very quiet, and yes I copied the rolling up of the cables from you guys here: clever)
Cooling: Noctua NH-U9S, extra NF-A9 PWM on the back exhaust, split from the CPU header, and on the system fan header one NF-A9 PWM front intake and one NF-A15 PWM side intake, with low-noise adapter before the splitter.
 
Sharing my NCASE M1 v5 build.

- Noctua NH-U9S (NF-A9)
- EVGA Hybrid AIO (120mm x 27mm rad) + Corsair ML120 Pro (120mm x 25mm exhaust)
- Noctua NF-A9 x 2 as chassis fan (rear and bottom-front, both intake)
- Corsair SF600 + original cables
- WD Black 3.5' 4TB (bottom-back of case)
- i7 7700k
- GTX 1080 Ti FE
- Asus ROG Strix 270i
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 CL16 2x8GB
- Samsung Evo 960 M.2 1TB (top of mobo)
- Acer X34 (3440x1440)

Temperatures:
- Room temp: 22C
- Prime95 SFFT: 78C (CPU)
- Unigine Heaven: 53C (GPU @ +150core/+500mem/120%power, ~2012MHz core maintained)
- Games: <=55C (GPU), 48~58C (CPU), ~2000MHz core maintained.

Fan curves (SpeedFan):
- ML120 Pro to AIO Pump header - 40% @ system idle, 100% @ GPU >52C, 60% @ CPU >60C
- NF-A9 x 2 to Chassis fan header - 30% @ system idle, 60% @ GPU >50C, 60% @ CPU 60C, 100% @ CPU >80C
- NF-A9 x 1 to CPU fan header - 30% @ system idle, 60% @ GPU >50C, 100% @ CPU >70C
- GPU blower fan - 30% @ 40C, 60% @ 50C, 100% @ >70C.

Comments/Observations:
- CPU fan blows warm air into GPU rad adding +6C to GPU temp, but GPU able to maintain <=55C under load.
- GPU rad fan acts as exhaust for CPU and other components.
- Loudest noise is air rushing through vents via NF-A9. The fans themselves are quiet (CPU fan is whisper quite at 100%). Corsair ML120 Pro is moderately loud but the low tone makes it more tolerable than the NF-A9.
- Bottom NF-A9 as intake seems to reduce MOSFET/VRM temps (judging from touching backplate with and without fan during stress test).
- Rear NF-A9 as intake improves CPU by 5C, but your mileage may vary.
- Bottom and rear NF-A9 does not appear to have effect on GPU temp.
- Stiff cables that came with SF600 was able to be managed in my design, but again your mileage may vary.
- HDD remains cool at 30~40C.
- PCH remains at 49C.
- Have attempted rad fan as intake and all other fans as exhaust - CPU reached 78C during gaming (15~40% load). Never. Again.
- Fan curve chosen to minimise noise as much as possible.


35158528570_ecac5f7020_b.jpg

34736548173_9b36835258_b.jpg
Nice! Looks to be a quiet set up.
 
I would like to share my build here, because it's different from all the M1 builds I have seen so far. For planning this build, this thread was a great help to me, so maybe I can inspire someone too. I wanted to have a quiet air-cooled setup, suitable for 24/7 heavy load (gaming, cryptomining, BOINC calculations, photo editing, and basically everything).

Removing the front I/O panel, and installing a Noctua NF-A9 PWM fan in the front, has created a very effective front-to-back airflow around the GPU. GPU cooling is the most difficult part of an M1 build after all. For some reason, the M1 has two holes in the front which are perfect for mounting a 92mm fan. On the bottom, I have secured the fan with two cable ties to the empty screw holes of the front I/O panel. The fan has enough room to draw the air in. There is a little over 2 cm room between the fan and front panel, and obviously the bottom cut-out for the front I/O panel is where the air gets sucked in. You can feel that if you hold your hand close.
The front USB and audio ports are not useful for me anyway - my monitor has a USB 3 hub, and I use a USB DAC for audio - and since the system is mostly on 24/7, having to relocate the power switch to the back wasn't a problem either. It also cuts down on cable clutter.

1Q3hoHkl.jpg


3xAZHMjl.jpg


UNRPM9Pl.jpg


I left all the holes on the back of the case open as much as possible, and you can feel the hot air exhausting through there. I would definitely recommend this cooling setup, if you can live without the front I/O panel.
I got a 25mm power switch from eBay, which has a high-quality feel to it, to go into one of the water cooling holes on the back, and also bought a cheap replacement power switch, just to get the cables with appropriate little mobo plug, and soldered those to the good power switch. It's almost a shame that I don't get to press this fine switch that often. :)

lGRUaw3l.jpg


The temps are pretty good for the CPU and GPU: 60~65C and ~72C respectively under load at very reasonable fan speeds and noise. These are real-world loads, not synthetic. Especially the CPU can draw much more power under synthetic load at 3.8 GHz, but this is not very important in comparison to 'normal' heavy use. Unfortunately, the SSD on the back of the mobo can also get up to 65C when the ambient temperature is high, like 30C. Usually it's around 57C, but this is not under heavy load or anything. It's rated for up to 70C luckily, and I can't really do anything about this. There is simply no airflow on the back of the mobo.


Specs:
Mobo: Biostar X370GTN (has been pretty good so far)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 1700X @ 3.8 GHz
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2×8 GB @ 2933 MHz (could not get it to boot on the 3200 MHz it's rated for unfortunately)
GPU: MSI Gaming RX480 (huge, but very quiet thanks to 100mm fans and passive mode)
SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB
PSU: Corsair SF450 (side intake, very quiet, and yes I copied the rolling up of the cables from you guys here: clever)
Cooling: Noctua NH-U9S, extra NF-A9 PWM on the back exhaust, split from the CPU header, and on the system fan header one NF-A9 PWM front intake and one NF-A15 PWM side intake, with low-noise adapter before the splitter.

Well, replacing the front I/O with a 92 mm intake fan is an interesting solution. I like that you left off the rear I/O plate, the extra expansion slot cover and the small rectangular plate above the expansion slots to improve the ability of warm air to exit the case.

Have you added some dark mesh to the inside of the front panel so that the air intake is filtered and the Noctua A9 fan is less visible? A photo with the front panel on would be appreciated.
 
Though I'd share my little project; adapting the backplate of the Accelero IV to fit inside the NCASE M1 with an SFX-L PSU, to give the 1080 Ti adequate cooling with less noise.

http://imgur.com/a/13nsI

It's not pretty but it works, hopefully it can be useful to someone else playing with similar ideas. (sorry for photo quality)
 
Though I'd share my little project; adapting the backplate of the Accelero IV to fit inside the NCASE M1 with an SFX-L PSU, to give the 1080 Ti adequate cooling with less noise.

http://imgur.com/a/13nsI

It's not pretty but it works, hopefully it can be useful to someone else playing with similar ideas. (sorry for photo quality)
That's a lot of modding to the heatsinks. I am very impressed.
 
I would like to share my build here, because it's different from all the M1 builds I have seen so far. For planning this build, this thread was a great help to me, so maybe I can inspire someone too. I wanted to have a quiet air-cooled setup, suitable for 24/7 heavy load (gaming, cryptomining, BOINC calculations, photo editing, and basically everything).

Removing the front I/O panel, and installing a Noctua NF-A9 PWM fan in the front, has created a very effective front-to-back airflow around the GPU. GPU cooling is the most difficult part of an M1 build after all. For some reason, the M1 has two holes in the front which are perfect for mounting a 92mm fan. On the bottom, I have secured the fan with two cable ties to the empty screw holes of the front I/O panel. The fan has enough room to draw the air in. There is a little over 2 cm room between the fan and front panel, and obviously the bottom cut-out for the front I/O panel is where the air gets sucked in. You can feel that if you hold your hand close.
The front USB and audio ports are not useful for me anyway - my monitor has a USB 3 hub, and I use a USB DAC for audio - and since the system is mostly on 24/7, having to relocate the power switch to the back wasn't a problem either. It also cuts down on cable clutter.

1Q3hoHkl.jpg


3xAZHMjl.jpg


UNRPM9Pl.jpg


I left all the holes on the back of the case open as much as possible, and you can feel the hot air exhausting through there. I would definitely recommend this cooling setup, if you can live without the front I/O panel.
I got a 25mm power switch from eBay, which has a high-quality feel to it, to go into one of the water cooling holes on the back, and also bought a cheap replacement power switch, just to get the cables with appropriate little mobo plug, and soldered those to the good power switch. It's almost a shame that I don't get to press this fine switch that often. :)

lGRUaw3l.jpg


The temps are pretty good for the CPU and GPU: 60~65C and ~72C respectively under load at very reasonable fan speeds and noise. These are real-world loads, not synthetic. Especially the CPU can draw much more power under synthetic load at 3.8 GHz, but this is not very important in comparison to 'normal' heavy use. Unfortunately, the SSD on the back of the mobo can also get up to 65C when the ambient temperature is high, like 30C. Usually it's around 57C, but this is not under heavy load or anything. It's rated for up to 70C luckily, and I can't really do anything about this. There is simply no airflow on the back of the mobo.


Specs:
Mobo: Biostar X370GTN (has been pretty good so far)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 1700X @ 3.8 GHz
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2×8 GB @ 2933 MHz (could not get it to boot on the 3200 MHz it's rated for unfortunately)
GPU: MSI Gaming RX480 (huge, but very quiet thanks to 100mm fans and passive mode)
SSD: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB
PSU: Corsair SF450 (side intake, very quiet, and yes I copied the rolling up of the cables from you guys here: clever)
Cooling: Noctua NH-U9S, extra NF-A9 PWM on the back exhaust, split from the CPU header, and on the system fan header one NF-A9 PWM front intake and one NF-A15 PWM side intake, with low-noise adapter before the splitter.
Interesting dea to improve front to back airflow.
 
Though I'd share my little project; adapting the backplate of the Accelero IV to fit inside the NCASE M1 with an SFX-L PSU, to give the 1080 Ti adequate cooling with less noise.

http://imgur.com/a/13nsI

It's not pretty but it works, hopefully it can be useful to someone else playing with similar ideas. (sorry for photo quality)

Impressive effort. Is this a new record for most heatsink fins in an M1?
 
Sharing my NCASE M1 v5 build.
...

Temperatures:
- Room temp: 22C
- Prime95 SFFT: 78C (CPU)
- Unigine Heaven: 53C (GPU @ +150core/+500mem/120%power, ~2012MHz core maintained)
- Games: <=55C (GPU), 48~58C (CPU), ~2000MHz core maintained.

Pretty impressive temps for a Ti! Even a hybrid...

I would like to share my build here, because it's different from all the M1 builds I have seen so far. For planning this build, this thread was a great help to me, so maybe I can inspire someone too. I wanted to have a quiet air-cooled setup, suitable for 24/7 heavy load (gaming, cryptomining, BOINC calculations, photo editing, and basically everything).

...

Removing the front I/O panel, and installing a Noctua NF-A9 PWM fan in the front, has created a very effective front-to-back airflow around the GPU. GPU cooling is the most difficult part of an M1 build after all. For some reason, the M1 has two holes in the front which are perfect for mounting a 92mm fan.

You know - I've had the same thought a few times, but I don't have the space in front. I didn't even think about removing the front I/O however so hat tip to you for doing just that!
- I was thinking of enlarging the front panel cut out in the frame maybe. However, I don't think there's enough room as I need it for pump mounting.
- I second the call for some pics of the front case panel installed :). I'm quite interested to see what it looks like!
 
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