NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

There is a new cooler that should fit (130mm), the Scythe Byakko.

Abmessungen.jpg


I wonder how it compares with the popular Noctua NH-U9S most use. The big difference I see is 3 heatpipes vs 5.
 
rfarmer said:
Ok I have 1 240mm Black Ice 240 GTS radiator cooling a OCed 6600k and a GTX 1070. Max temps on the CPU is 50C, max on the 1070 is 42C. How is that not great? I haven't seen an air cooled setup come close to those kind of temps.
Click to expand...
I have a 5930k and 1080. Both OCed. 5930K is on water and its silent and temps never breach 60C at 4.3GHZ.
I agree with you entirely. Whomever is writing off the Water cooling setups is missing out.
 
I'm upgrading from a 960 (2GB Strix) to a 1060, and I have two choices from EVGA: the 6.8in SC or the 10.5in FTW DT (non-OCed with FTW cooler), and I have an SFX-L PSU and V5.
I'm going for silence--my current setup has an Accelero Xtreme III mounted to the card (heatsink only--no fans/shroud), with a pair of 120mm fans at the bottom, controlled via PWM from the GPU 4-pin header.

Now, the shorter SC seems like the easy swap-in choice, but given reports of hot VRMs on these cards, and that I might not be able to fit heatsinks under my Accelero, the FTW DT with its VRAM/MOSFET frontplate seems mighty attractive, especially when I don't care about a factory overclock/OC potential.
I also happen to have a set of extra power cables on which I could perform a cutout/right-angle mod (as well as make custom lengths for that perfect fit). The FTW DT would also get better cooling if I restored it to stock and put it in a Node 202 or ML08-type case than the shorter SC.

TL;DR: is a long GPU worth the issues with cable/GPU pressure?
 
{NG}Fidel said:
I have a 5930k and 1080. Both OCed. 5930K is on water and its silent and temps never breach 60C at 4.3GHZ.
I agree with you entirely. Whomever is writing off the Water cooling setups is missing out.
Click to expand...

What parts did you use (pictures would be nice) and how much cost did it come to?

I've seen 6700ks at 4.5GHz that didn't breach 60c stresses on a Cryorig M9i, so eh. Granted the 6700k was delidded but if you're that anal about cooling you should be doing that where you can.

If you want to vet for WC, show us what you got. I've seen too many disappointing WC setups in the NCASE to justify it yet.
 
Tephnos said:
What parts did you use (pictures would be nice) and how much cost did it come to?

I've seen 6700ks at 4.5GHz that didn't breach 60c stresses on a Cryorig M9i, so eh. Granted the 6700k was delidded but if you're that anal about cooling you should be doing that where you can.

If you want to vet for WC, show us what you got. I've seen too many disappointing WC setups in the NCASE to justify it yet.
Click to expand...

All specs in sig.
 
HilbertSpace said:
So my options for increased cooling capacity are:

1. Move pump/res outside case, and attach to back. Buy another 240 rad for the side mounted location inside case.

2. Buy a 92 mm (40 mm thick) rad for inside, back of case, and hope that is enough extra cooling.

3. Attach a 240 rad outside the case somewhere... maybe on top?

Any other options/advice?

My goal is silent and reasonably cool, i.e Delta T ~ 10-15 °C for coolant.
Click to expand...

You can see what I did here. Basically my entire water cooling journey.
Hope that helps you. I've gone through and annotated the entire photo set so you can read what I did and why.

My parts list is here....
 
Chapeau - thanks, very informative. I have ordered another radiator, and fittings etc. I debated switching to a larger case, but I'm going to go with the pump attached to the back. I will see how it works with 2x 240 radiators, with fans at 1000-1100 rpm. If that isn't silent then I will have to use a different case, as I want to overclock, but also don't want a constant noise in the background - sounds too much like my workplace then.
 
Anyone know where I can get a right angle power cable to replace my left angle? I've been wanting to get one for months, but it's never available when I check.
 
{NG}Fidel said:
The same basic principles behind the method of cooling remain the same. My chips for all intents and purposes are under water.
Click to expand...

It is, but AIO is definitely noisy compared to air. You just can't get rid of that pump noise unless you have other background noise going on. I was hoping you were under custom water since I'm not arguing against AIO if you want to do it, just the sheer effort/expense of a custom loop.
 
FYI, I have used low profile USB 3.0 extension cables in both of my M1 builds in an effort to have tidy cable management. The front panel USB 3.0 cable is notoriously stiff and unwieldy in every case I've ever encountered. In my first build the extension cable allowed me to hide the USB 3 connection behind the motherboard. In the second build, the connection is below the motherboard and underneath the graphics card.


USB3_Extension-closeup-1 (Large).JPG USB3_Extension-closeup-2.jpg

In the first build I used an all black cable from EVGA, but this no longer seems to be available on their website. In the second build I used a "rainbow" coloured cable from modDIY. Note that modDIY now lists all-black, red-black, rainbow, and even a black sleeved version of this cable. All are ~ $15. Be sure to buy the Male-Female (MF) version of such a cable because modDIY also sells a Female-Female (FF) adapter cable. Recently, I found an all-black (not sleeved) MF cable on Amazon (USA) for $12.75 and sold by Micro SATA Cables.

It may seem counter-intuitive, bu t I have found that using a USB 3 extension has resulted in a cleaner appearance. I hope this is helpful.
 
Qrash, thanks for the info about USB 3.0 extension cables. I have been eyeing them for a while because the USB 3.0 header on my wife's mobo is out in the middle of the board and really in the way for a lot of the big CPU coolers. I'm glad to hear that they work well!
 
Curses on you Qrash - now I have to visit that website again. Who knows what else might find its way into my shopping basket. ;.;
 
Frazhna said:
Qrash, thanks for the info about USB 3.0 extension cables. I have been eyeing them for a while because the USB 3.0 header on my wife's mobo is out in the middle of the board and really in the way for a lot of the big CPU coolers. I'm glad to hear that they work well!
Click to expand...

In both builds I folded the extension cable underneath the edge of the motherboard. Initially, the EVGA extension did not stay securely in the motherboard USB 3 socket. I had to pre-curl the cable to overcome its tendency to uncurl which was lifting it out of the socket. The rainbow extension cable from modDIY did not seem to have this problem, but maybe I unconsciously pre-curled it based on my past experience. Both extensions are working fine and seem to be secure.
 
Hey guys, I'm about to start ordering all of the components for my new Ncase M1 setup. I would really appreciate it if some of you could fill me in with recommendations and answers to my following questions.

Components Fully Decided Upon:

Ncase M1 V5 Silver
DEMCIflex Dust filters
Intel Core i7 7700K
Asus Strix Z270i (compatibility should be similar to Z170i)
Samsung 960 Pro 500GB
Samsung 950 Evo 1TB

Components in Question:

1. CPU Cooler? The main goal here is to achieve a 5.0GHz overclock (provided the chip will accommodate) - I am leaning towards a AIO option and would really love it if I could fit a Corsair h100i (original) or perhaps something similar!

2. GPU - 1080 is a must. Overclocking the card isn't a priority and I think a standard reference card would be fine, but is there a better option in this decision?

3. PSU - This I am really undecided. Corsair SF600 or Corsair SF450 any issues here with size on other components?

4. RAM - 32GB of nice high frequency DDR4 to fully utilize the Z270 here. But what ram will reduce any concern on size issues?

Finally, I have searched for similar builds that utilize the h100i and Asus Z170i as a point of reference but can't seem to find any! I would really appreciate any links / help / guidance to guarantee that all selections I make have full comparability and fit before making the jump to finalize these orders.
 
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xcharlesy said:
  1. CPU Cooler? The main goal here is to achieve a 5.0GHz overclock (provided the chip will accommodate) - I am leaning towards a AIO option and would really love it if I could fit a Corsair h100i (original) or perhaps something similar!
  2. GPU - 1080 is a must. Overclocking the card isn't a priority and I think a standard reference card would be fine, but is there a better option in this decision?
  3. PSU - This I am really undecided. Corsair SF600 or Corsair SF450 any issues here with size on other components?
  4. RAM - 32GB of nice high frequency DDR4 to fully utilize the Z270 here. But what ram will reduce any concern on size issues?
Click to expand...

  1. I'm not into water and pump so I can't help. If air, NH-U9S. Remember that .2GHz is 200MHz so even if you only go at 4.8GHz you would not notice a difference, unless you look at bench numbers so investing 100$ more for 200 MHz? It's up to you.
  2. Look for card with exhaust so reference would be fine.
  3. Go SF600, yo don't want to run a 450W close to its limit.
  4. Corsair Vengeance LPX should be good.
 
Chapeau said:
It's a Qisan Magicforce 68.
Key caps were swapped for some blue gradient double shot.
Click to expand...

I've been looking at 80% mechanical keyboards lately, really like the size of them. As often as I use the number keys I am sure I could live without them.
 
Rhialto said:
  1. I'm not into water and pump so I can't help. If air, NH-U9S. Remember that .2GHz is 200MHz so even if you only go at 4.8GHz you would not notice a difference, unless you look at bench numbers so investing 100$ more for 200 MHz? It's up to you.
  2. Look for card with exhaust so reference would be fine.
  3. Go SF600, yo don't want to run a 450W close to its limit.
  4. Corsair Vengeance LPX should be good.
Click to expand...

Thanks for response!

1. What would the Cryotek equal be to the NH-U9S? I ask before I prefer the aesthetics with the Cryotek - I like your comment about going air.
2. Would either using a Noctua or Cryotek effect my ram choice if I wanted to do something high profile like Corsair Dominator on the new Asus Z270i board? I can't tell based on the proximity.
3. Would the SF600 be enough to run a m.2, 2 ssd's, and everything else with overclocking and expandable head room?

And finally, what about shortened PSU cables without having to go full custom, would cable mod basic kit be more manageable than the oem?
 
Cryotek? Never heard of... Cryorig maybe? The M9i/a? I don't know that cooler. Not sure RAM would be an issue in both case when using Low Profile, unlike the Corsair Dominator line. SF600 would be fine with enough head room. You can play a bit with this Power Supply calculator. You'll see everything will fit under 450W but for 30$ more the 600 will be less stressed.
 
rfarmer said:
I've been looking at 80% mechanical keyboards lately, really like the size of them. As often as I use the number keys I am sure I could live without them.
Click to expand...
Might be a bit small for you - but my ultimate would be the Whitefox. It's a bit of a struggle to justify honestly, but I'll be keeping an eye out for the next drop for sure.
 
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DersTheSwede said:
How's the top dust filter working? Always been a concern for me with panel venting on the top. Though I wonder if airflow with a NH-U9S exhausting right up against it would be negatively impacted.
Click to expand...

I did smoke test before placed the dust filters, so my case has a negative pressure. Sucking air mostly from top and bottom, plus psu side. This 3 side plus the small back vent. space i covered.
To cover the exhaust i think not really good idea. If i place any filter (demiciflex, or the one came with the case) my temps are 3-5 celsius higher
 
xcharlesy said:
Hey guys, I'm about to start ordering all of the components for my new Ncase M1 setup. I would really appreciate it if some of you could fill me in with recommendations and answers to my following questions.

Components Fully Decided Upon:

Ncase M1 V5 Silver
DEMCIflex Dust filters
Intel Core i7 7700K
Asus Strix Z270i (compatibility should be similar to Z170i)
Samsung 960 Pro 500GB
Samsung 950 Evo 1TB

Components in Question:

1. CPU Cooler? The main goal here is to achieve a 5.0GHz overclock (provided the chip will accommodate) - I am leaning towards a AIO option and would really love it if I could fit a Corsair h100i (original) or perhaps something similar!

2. GPU - 1080 is a must. Overclocking the card isn't a priority and I think a standard reference card would be fine, but is there a better option in this decision?

3. PSU - This I am really undecided. Corsair SF600 or Corsair SF450 any issues here with size on other components?

4. RAM - 32GB of nice high frequency DDR4 to fully utilize the Z270 here. But what ram will reduce any concern on size issues?

Finally, I have searched for similar builds that utilize the h100i and Asus Z170i as a point of reference but can't seem to find any! I would really appreciate any links / help / guidance to guarantee that all selections I make have full comparability and fit before making the jump to finalize these orders.
Click to expand...

I'm using the H100i and had no problems with the install.

IMG_20161230_083618 (1).jpg
 
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Chapeau said:
It's a Qisan Magicforce 68.
Key caps were swapped for some blue gradient double shot.
Click to expand...
Thanks Chapeau! Build and presentation are awesome!

Another question, what is the difference between the blue gradient double shot key caps? And where did you buy these blue gradient double shot caps?
I see the keyboard on amazon but not the caps you're referring to.
 
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hshot_rooke said:
Thanks Chapeau! Build and presentation are awesome!

Another question, what is the difference between the blue gradient double shot key caps? And where did you buy these blue gradient double shot caps?
I see the keyboard on amazon but not the caps you're referring to.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking...
- If it is "WHERE" the keycaps are, then they're located on the outside of the keyboard. The entire top row and all the keys with double printed for functions are original. The tab, caps, shift, ctrl space etc around the edges, arrow keys and pg up/down are gradient
- If it's "WHAT" the keycaps are, then look here or here for an explanation. Double shot means the keys are made from two plastic types. The printing on the keys is actually part of the keycap. In this case, a clear plastic on the inside to let the backlight through and a second hard plastic for the casing.

Finally, I bought mine from ebay as there is a definite lack of supply in Australia. But if you use your Google Fu, you'll find plenty of US retailers.

 
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So good news first, the D9L cooler fits on the ASRock Z270 M-ITX Fatal1ty board with Vengeance LPX memory.

Bad news...my board won't turn on. The light on the power switch won't even come on. With all of these silent fans, I can't even be certain my PSU works.

Any suggestions where to start?
 
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n_ls said:
So good news first, the D9L cooler fits on the ASRock Z270 M-ITX Fatal1ty board with Vengeance LPX memory.

Bad news...my board won't turn on. The light on the power switch won't even come on. With all of these silent fans, I can't even be certain my PSU works.

Any suggestions where to start?
Click to expand...

Ok that motherboard has a case speaker header, did you hook up the one that came with the case? Are you getting any beeps when you try and start?
 
I did not see a case speaker header. On the front panel I see power/usb/HD sound. Where should I be looking?
 
n_ls said:
So good news first, the D9L cooler fits on the ASRock Z270 M-ITX Fatal1ty board with Vengeance LPX memory.

Bad news...my board won't turn on. The light on the power switch won't even come on. With all of these silent fans, I can't even be certain my PSU works.

Any suggestions where to start?
Click to expand...


I would start with the motherboard outside of the case on a non-conducting surface, one RAM module, no hard drive, and no graphics card. Plug the monitor into the motherboard's output and try starting it. You could use a small switch plugged into the Power Switch pins in the motherboard or momentarily short the pins (carefully!) with a small flathead (straight) screwdriver. Later you can add a drive (SATA or M.2).

If it doesn't start try clearing the CMOS by jumping the appropriate pins or removing (unplugging) the small round lithium battery (CR2032).

If it still doesn't start it would be good to try a different power supply or connect this power supply to another computer, if you have one.
 
n_ls said:
I did not see a case speaker header. On the front panel I see power/usb/HD sound. Where should I be looking?
Click to expand...

The speaker header should be a single row of 4 pins. The motherboard manual should have a diagram with all the connectors and components labelled.
 
Ah, got it. Unfortunately I do not have that. I bought the case from a user on the forum and he must have forgotten to include it.

I don't have another PSU/computer (only a laptop).

Here is some more detail

I'm running a Z270 M-ITX Fatal1ty board with 7600k CPU, D9L cooler, and SF450 PSU. EVGA 1070 Hybrid is currently disconnected, as is the 1TB M2.

Power button is connected to the front panel header appropriately as far as I can tell, but when I press it, nothing happens. It does not light up, no fans spin, etc.

Any ideas are welcome - I haven't built a computer in probably 6 years, so I could have easily forgotten something stupid.
 
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n_ls said:
Ah, got it. Unfortunately I do not have that. I bought the case from a user on the forum and he must have forgotten to include it.
Click to expand...

That's too bad, makes it easier to troubleshoot. I would follow Qrash's advice and see if you can pinpoint the problem.
 
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