NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Guys could you please snip the pictures from the post or put spoilers around it?
 
Last edited:
Great setup.

How close to the intake on the panel is that fan?

Also, this build appears to have negative pressure. Report back in a while about dust would be much appreciated :D

How can it have negative pressure when all three fans are intake??
 
As for Noctua fans, Have anyone got first hand experience with the industrial grade fans in regard to noise level rpms for rpms. I know they are rated to be louder, but they are also rated at way higher rpms. Would a regular Noctua fan and an industrial "equivalent" at 800rpm be comparable or significantly different?

I have the 140mm 2000RPM and at low speeds it's comparable to the non-industrial versions, with PWM I had it running at 660RPM at idle (it won't go that low on voltage control though).
 
On second examination you're right....


Seems to me the bottom fans should exhaust...

Than I would have negative pressure :)

The build performed quite well in Diablo 3 1920x1080 60fps, CPU, GPU and GPU VRM's stayed around 60°C and the system remained relatively quiet. Much more quiet than I could run my watercooling setup :eek:
 
Than I would have negative pressure :)

The build performed quite well in Diablo 3 1920x1080 60fps, CPU, GPU and GPU VRM's stayed around 60°C and the system remained relatively quiet. Much more quiet than I could run my watercooling setup :eek:

One additional intake fan and you wouldn't be negative pressure anymore. I figure the GPU exhausting wouldn't heat up the case.
 
I'll be removing the card when I find VRM heatsinks anyway, so I might try turning the fans around. But I'd indeed would need another fan.
 
:eek:

That's very not good, you could fry your whole rig if it shorts.

I'm working on a custom bracket, it would place the PSU like the ATX bracket except shifted up against the front so the connectors would go past the front edge of the card.

There's also someone working on a 3d printed version of the V3 bracket I believe.

Got my GTX 980 Ref. today and tried it with the SX500-LG. If your bracket puts the PSU up against the front plate, I'll work perfectly.
But you won't be able to move it more than 2-3mm before it starts to hit the GPU.
Urelure's suggestion won't really improve it because there's not really any space to move it around, given that you have a card that is 267mm or longer.
There's however plenty of room "height wise" and cable routing won't be a issue.
 
Last edited:
Got my GTX 980 Ref. today and tried it with the SX500-LG. If your bracket puts the PSU up against the front plate, I'll work perfectly.
But you won't be able to move it more than 2-3mm before it starts to hit the GPU.
Urelure's suggestion won't really improve it because there's not really any space to move it around, given that you have a card that is 267mm or longer.
There's however plenty of room "height wise" and cable routing won't be a issue.

Do have a pic? My bracket doesn't push the PSU right up against the front, I left a few mm space for clearance.

Urelure's idea I think is to give flexibility between mounting drives on the inside front versus GPU length.

So depending on the card length you could use either none, 1, or 2 drives.
 
I'll be removing the card when I find VRM heatsinks anyway, so I might try turning the fans around. But I'd indeed would need another fan.

I think you can expect comparable results as ScorpioNElite if you flip the fans around. As you can see he reported that intake was the most effective for GPU temps. Since your build gets fresh air for the CPU, contrary to his PSU mounted AIO, there might not be any gain in using them as exhaust.

Urelure's idea I think is to give flexibility between mounting drives on the inside front versus GPU length. So depending on the card length you could use either none, 1, or 2 drives.

That was the general idea yes, but also for creating a tight space to route cables.
 
Do have a pic? My bracket doesn't push the PSU right up against the front, I left a few mm space for clearance.

Urelure's idea I think is to give flexibility between mounting drives on the inside front versus GPU length.

So depending on the card length you could use either none, 1, or 2 drives.

No, but I can get you.
How many mm exactly? And I'll try to find something to use as a "shim" between the PSU and front.
 
Found this over on r/gamingpc. I'm not crazy for the color, but it's an interesting alternative for matx.

hQ1y95dl.jpg

eQ96MJdl.jpg
 
No, but I can get you.
How many mm exactly? And I'll try to find something to use as a "shim" between the PSU and front.

About 3mm from the front plate. I thought that left enough space for the video card but maybe I miscalculated. We'll see once I finally get my hands on that PSU.


Found this over on r/gamingpc. I'm not crazy for the color, but it's an interesting alternative for matx.

Yup, that's me.

Default color will be black for the production run.
 
About 3mm from the front plate. I thought that left enough space for the video card but maybe I miscalculated. We'll see once I finally get my hands on that PSU.

That should be fine, 2-3mm more than that and the cables will start pushing on the GPU.


3mm spacer
d46h9V3h.jpg


nNRDwd5h.jpg


yxWxE33h.jpg
 
That should be fine, 2-3mm more than that and the cables will start pushing on the GPU.

Wow, that is close. Once I get the PSU and bracket installed so I can measure it in situ I'll modify the design to push it up as far forward as possible.
 
I have the 140mm 2000RPM and at low speeds it's comparable to the non-industrial versions, with PWM I had it running at 660RPM at idle (it won't go that low on voltage control though).

Thanks btw. I completely missed this post yesterday.
 
About 3mm from the front plate. I thought that left enough space for the video card but maybe I miscalculated. We'll see once I finally get my hands on that PSU.




Yup, that's me.

Default color will be black for the production run.

I would totally take one in gloss white once it's available
 
Please do, I'd be very interested. :)

Ok, so I put in the redux fans and changed my cards fan settings using the Maxwell BIOS Tweaker. Same method as described here: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/275897-tutorial-how-to-make-your-980-970-have-a-0-fan-mode/
Using the default settings would not allow the fans to go below 1000rpm.

Tried to make the fans stand still below 40C but seems like ~400rpm is the best they can do. Nonetheless this is really really quiet. The fan them selves make lot of airflow noise running at 1200rpm compared to the corsair ones. But not so strange since they move much more air.

Temps are pretty much the same, except for the idle temp which is ~10C higher, so 35C/67C. Fans are running at 600-700 rpm while gaming. I think I can get them running even slower.

I'm thinking of ordering one of these redux fans for my CPU as well, since the cpu fan currently is the most noise one, and I can't turn it down much since it isn't pwm.

Anyone know if there's much real difference between noctua 140mm and 120mm in this case?
 
got my new power switch in :D now just working out how I want to do the activity led.

Where did you get thar switch? I've been scouring the web for them but havent found anything where i can buy less than 50pcs. Looking really good. I am all for white led.
 
Thanks! i got it from aliexpress. its 100 piece order but i just messaged the seller and asked for a sample of the white led 3v switch. $5 shipped to my place in the US. a steal if i do say so my self

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100p...tch-Ring-LED-DHL-Free-Shipping/862820050.html

Did you come up with some sort of elaborate story, or did you plainly ask for a sample? I know the guy who originally did this did that too.

Performance-PCs in the US has switches like that.

Yes i know, but these are just 12mm in diameter. The smallest ones regularly available are 16mm.
 
Did you come up with some sort of elaborate story, or did you plainly ask for a sample? I know the guy who originally did this did that too.

no haha, i just said hey can i get a sample piece? im looking to test 1 out lol

Yes i know, but these are just 12mm in diameter. The smallest ones regularly available are 16mm.

and yes that was the problem i was having. 12mm is hard to find even on ebay. they usually set you back more than $10 too
 
no haha, i just said hey can i get a sample piece? im looking to test 1 out lol

I wonder how many times people will get away with that? Considering trying myself.
as for the hdd led, I've given it some thought myself. My case will eventually end up on a shelf high enough for the downlight mod oliver did to be kind of pointless. Not that hdd activity is necessary information to have, but if you're doing a mod it should show, right? I was thinking about lighting up the back of the case so the wall lights up instead of the tabletop, but i am worried it would create a very annoying disco effect when the room is dark.
 
I wonder how many times people will get away with that? Considering trying myself.
as for the hdd led, I've given it some thought myself. My case will eventually end up on a shelf high enough for the downlight mod oliver did to be kind of pointless. Not that hdd activity is necessary information to have, but if you're doing a mod it should show, right? I was thinking about lighting up the back of the case so the wall lights up instead of the tabletop, but i am worried it would create a very annoying disco effect when the room is dark.

im in the same boat. considering not even doing it. right now i have a normal shape bright red led through the bottom and you cant see it unless you are looking at it from level. i feel like olivers might be the same. might just ditch hdd led unless i can find a way to make it look nice but not distracting
 
I've bought 12mm red anti vandal switch that were only a couple of pounds on evay for my case, and the. I bought this http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=400623730106 - to use instead of the cables that come with the m1, it already has a red led for HDD activity. So my plan is to drill a hole at the bottom and from of the case. However it should be pretty easy to swap the led out for another colour.
 
As an eBay Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
I've bought 12mm red anti vandal switch that were only a couple of pounds on evay for my case, and the. I bought this http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=400623730106 - to use instead of the cables that come with the m1, it already has a red led for HDD activity. So my plan is to drill a hole at the bottom and from of the case. However it should be pretty easy to swap the led out for another colour.

those are the wires im using and i have the red led through one of the fan mounting holes on the bottom. let me tell you before you drill its nearly impossible to notice it unless your eyes are level with the bottom of the case, even then it only makes a small red dot on the surface beneath it

XCHpdURm.jpg
I9Sdlupm.jpg
 
As an eBay Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
those are the wires im using and i have the red led through one of the fan mounting holes on the bottom. let me tell you before you drill its nearly impossible to notice it unless your eyes are level with the bottom of the case, even then it only makes a small red dot on the surface beneath it

XCHpdURm.jpg
I9Sdlupm.jpg

Great thank you for the info, I will have a think about it
 
Has anyone had any problems with the left USB3 port not working? I have a version 2 case that I just moved to out of my V1 case and the left USB3 port does not work. I don't have another motherboard to test on at the moment I just wanted to see if anyone else experienced this.
 
Have you checked the usb 3 socket on your motherboard? If any of the this tiny pins have bent or snapped off it can stop one of the ports working!
 
It may have just worked it's way out of the socket. It may just be my motherboard (GA Z77-N WiFi) but the USB3 header will fall off the board if you look at it funny.
 
I received my replacement panels today. but sadly its wrong again.
this time the sender is Lian Li. = (
 
I received my replacement panels today. but sadly its wrong again.
this time the sender is Lian Li. = (

I think we have been emailing each other.

For others that don't know - a very unhappy employee (soon ex-employee) handled the shipment for the M1 Panels and Panel Kits (NOT M1 V3s). It is possible that all panel shipments are wrong. According to the Taiwan Postal Office, the problem is not only affecting NCASE, but all shipments in February 2015.
 
Have you checked the usb 3 socket on your motherboard? If any of the this tiny pins have bent or snapped off it can stop one of the ports working!

This. Front panel USB 3 cable and motherboard USB 3 header are the worst mismatch in the history of PC building. Here you have a bulky, heavy cable connecting to a flimsy header pins. The header pins can snap if you look at them funny. I broke a pin on my previous motherboard. So be very very careful.
 
I think we have been emailing each other.

For others that don't know - a very unhappy employee (soon ex-employee) handled the shipment for the M1 Panels and Panel Kits (NOT M1 V3s). It is possible that all panel shipments are wrong. According to the Taiwan Postal Office, the problem is not only affecting NCASE, but all shipments in February 2015.
Heavy. I hope you will be compensated for this, how could one person be allowed to cause so many wrong shipments ?
 
Back
Top