NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

[Bobalias_LeShay]

Up until GTX 295 and 5970, getting a dual gpu was well worth the money. The prices are at most x2.25, sometimes even cheaper, than two single cards. Today it costs x2.5-3.

Hence my conundrum. Am I willing to deal with a single GTX 880 performance wise in my M1, or do I need to go to uATX for my primary gaming system, because a deal GPU card is absurdly overpriced? I've never run SLI or Crossfire in the past, but I may need to start. This is mostly driven by 1) My Oculus Rift DK2, which is quite demanding and 2) the new ASUS ROG monitor that's 144Hz 1440p, which is probably even more demanding.

It doesn't help that GPU speedups from generation to generation are becoming less and resolutions and refresh rates are skyrocketing. Both trends make massive graphics performance more necessary. The M1 so gorgeous I'll almost certainly just stick with a single GTX 880 initially, and if it's insufficient I can always add a second later.

 

[XelNika]

Hence my conundrum. Am I willing to deal with a single GTX 880 performance wise in my M1, or do I need to go to uATX for my primary gaming system, because a deal GPU card is absurdly overpriced? I've never run SLI or Crossfire in the past, but I may need to start. This is mostly driven by 1) My Oculus Rift DK2, which is quite demanding and 2) the new ASUS ROG monitor that's 144Hz 1440p, which is probably even more demanding.

It doesn't help that GPU speedups from generation to generation are becoming less and resolutions and refresh rates are skyrocketing. Both trends make massive graphics performance more necessary. The M1 so gorgeous I'll almost certainly just stick with a single GTX 880 initially, and if it's insufficient I can always add a second later.

GPU performance increases roughly 25-35% each generation and has done so at least since GeForce 8000 series. I don't know if performance improved more back in the day, but it's actually fairly consistent.

That said, resolutions and refresh rates are increasing too rapidly for GPUs to keep up.

Regarding 1440p 144 Hz: good luck. I have 1440p 60 Hz and 7950 CF is not enough for that IMO if you want to play the most demanding titles. 1440p 60 Hz is still less difficult than 1080p 120 Hz (which is what I had before) because you often reach a CPU bottleneck before 120 FPS so I went in the right direction when I upgraded, but in hindsight, 1080p 60 Hz is far more manageable.

You'll only be able to maintain 144 Hz in less demanding games like CS and LoL. 60 FPS probably won't happen in demanding games on anything above high (assuming there's a higher setting).

 

[sashi]

Okay guys

Confirmed, the HIS 7950 blower style fits!

Here are some pics, not sure if you guys can make it but it JUST fits, probably had 2-3mm left over on the sidepanel

Going to update the spreadsheet

 

[WiSK]

(just checked the PSU thread, and seems to be one of the earlier places to have this on a store ready to pre-order. Surely not cheap though!)

You didn't check back far enough in the thread

We've been able to pre-order in Europe since the end of June. The shops were quoting delivery date 8th July, then changed to 11th July, then "unknown" and then 17th September for a long while, now they are all showing "unknown" again.

I'm happy if Australians will get their PSUs on 13th August, but I wouldn't be surprised if that's just a random date filled in by someone in the procurement department, and that it will be adjusted later. I hope for you guys I am wrong

 

[noobzilla]

I bought the Antec 750W Platinum. There's a 10% off code (VCO, use Visa Checkout), which takes it down to $69 after rebate. It ends today if anyone is interested. Newegg Shell Shocker deal.

 

[AFD]

I'm not getting correct stereo sound from the front headphone jack.. both ears are playing a mono mix (a left-channel only sound test plays centered in both ears, and same with a right-channel test).

Okay, I'm a total idiot. Took my panels off twice to dick around with the internal audio cable (unplugged/replugged the header, adjusted the bends, rejiggled the wire).

Found out tonight that I just wasn't fully inserting the damn headphone plug into the front headphone jack the whole way!

I knew the front jacks didn't have the normal audible click, unlike normal 3.5mm jacks, but to fully insert any of my headphone plugs the entire way (an extra 1mm further than I was doing) requires enough force that the entire case starts moving backwards. Very weird, but I'm happy to now have actual stereo.

Unfortunately, this was the reward for my stupidity..

I now have a flappy, loose front panel

Is there any ETA on when W360 will be adding spare parts to the website? I know I can just PM him directly to buy some more clips (is there a limit?), but it would be nice to also order some extra screws and the new shorter internal power cable all in one shot.

And any chance someone wants to crowdfund replacement M1 clips to sell us that aren't made out of total shit plastic? Metal, or coated metal, might work.. but I'm certain there are higher quality polymers that aren't as brittle (whatever plastic the external end of a GLOCK's guide rod is made from would be just perfect.. or the plastic in Oakley glasses, which also withstands a lot of flex).

 

[Phuncz]

I knew the front jacks didn't have the normal audible click, unlike normal 3.5mm jacks, but to fully insert any of my headphone plugs the entire way (an extra 1mm further than I was doing) requires enough force that the entire case starts moving backwards.

Yes I've had this same issue too: it requires so tremendous force to properly seat it. It doesn't help that the click you usually associate with the correct plug in, isn't there to tell you it's OK but you really, really need to push it as far as it can go without physically deforming the case

 

[chervas]

Hi! I don't know what is the best way to place a sigle fan + H100i (2 fans + radiator). I just draw 4 possible configs.

CONFIG A (radiator behind fans)

CONFIG B (radiator behind fans)

CONFIG C (radiator at front of fans)

CONFIG D (radiator at front of fans)

What is the best way? The bottom fan is a 2000 rpm slim fan

 

[cv643d]

Yeah I didn't receive the August 4th e-mail either. Not worried about it, just letting you know that I didn't get it.

I did not get one either, checked my spam folder too. I am in EU and chosed TW freight IIRC maybe thats why?

Looking forward to get the case though

 

[Phuncz]

Hi! I don't know what is the best way to place a sigle fan + H100i (2 fans + radiator). I just draw 4 possible configs.

What is the best way? The bottom fan is a 2000 rpm slim fan

Some of my views and opinions:

- having more fans as exhaust than intake will cause underpressure which will cause dust build-up at any hole or crevace. You'd want to avoid that. I do believe this is not as large an issue with this case as the abundance of holes make up for it, but it's something to consider. Most just have the fans on the radiator as intake and be done with it.

- fans below the GPU don't really matter much in this case. But the noise, extra cable, extra point-of-failure and extra space occupied, isn't worth the single digit °C gains some have achieved. If your GPU really needs this fan, there is something terribly wrong.

- push or pull configuration on the radiator is still undecided in this topic which one is best, making me believe this doesn't matter enough. So do what's easiest for you.

- 2000rpm slim fans are horrible: noisy and when turning slower they just don't move any reasonable amount of air and have almost no static pressure.


The more important question would be: how are you going to mount the PSU ? The fan orientation on the PSU matters more (tangible differences) than a fan below the GPU. With an ATX PSU there is only one way to fly, so let's go on.
With an SFX PSU like the Silverstone's, I recommend orienting the PSU with the fan outward, when you have the GPU in the watercooling loop OR if you have a (non-reference) GPU with a non-blower cooler. If you have a reference card with a blower cooler, you can turn the PSU around so the fan is oriented to the inside. Since a dual 120mm radiator won't be overburdened by just the CPU, so the air that will come from outside the case through the radiator wouldn't be too warm to cook your PSU.

 

[chervas]

Some of my views and opinions:

- having more fans as exhaust than intake will cause underpressure which will cause dust build-up at any hole or crevace. You'd want to avoid that. I do believe this is not as large an issue with this case as the abundance of holes make up for it, but it's something to consider. Most just have the fans on the radiator as intake and be done with it.

- fans below the GPU don't really matter much in this case. But the noise, extra cable, extra point-of-failure and extra space occupied, isn't worth the single digit °C gains some have achieved. If your GPU really needs this fan, there is something terribly wrong.

- push or pull configuration on the radiator is still undecided in this topic which one is best, making me believe this doesn't matter enough. So do what's easiest for you.

- 2000rpm slim fans are horrible: noisy and when turning slower they just don't move any reasonable amount of air and have almost no static pressure.


The more important question would be: how are you going to mount the PSU ? The fan orientation on the PSU matters more (tangible differences) than a fan below the GPU. With an ATX PSU there is only one way to fly, so let's go on.
With an SFX PSU like the Silverstone's, I recommend orienting the PSU with the fan outward, when you have the GPU in the watercooling loop OR if you have a (non-reference) GPU with a non-blower cooler. If you have a reference card with a blower cooler, you can turn the PSU around so the fan is oriented to the inside. Since a dual 120mm radiator won't be overburdened by just the CPU, so the air that will come from outside the case through the radiator wouldn't be too warm to cook your PSU.

Thank you for your help

1.- The reason for put a only one slim fan is for if I place two normal fans, they will be very close of GPU (maybe there aren't space)

2.- the GPU that I have is Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 ti http://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00IGQ4UX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The GPU haves two little fans pushing the air to the right side along of heat dissipator.

3.- the CPU is a Intel i7

4.- I have a 450W SFX PSU Silverstone. I think to put the gpu fan pushing air to outside

With this configuration, I understand that:
· Your suggestion is all fan push air into the case & the PSU fan direction outside but introducing fresh air to outside?
· As you said, maybe I must miss the bottom slim intake fan over the gpu?
· And the position of the radiator behind or at front of side fans are not important? (Sorry for my english!)

Any suggestion in addition?

All my config:
- 3TB Seagate hdd
http://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B006KCX0UE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Samsung 840 EVO - SSD 120 GB

- Motherboard Asus Maximus VI impact
http://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00E1JUT70/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1

- Kingston KHX16C9T3K2 - RAM DDR3, 16 GB (2 x 8 GB)

 

[Rorschach]

@ Phuncz - may i ask for some advice as well.

So i will have
- Ncase V2
- GTX MSI 760 Twin Frozr
- ATX Seasonic S12II Psu (for now)
- Cpu Cooler Thermalright AXP-100R

What is my best airflow configuration ?

I was thinking to pun 2x 120 mm fans down for the video card - to intake or exhaust ?
And another fan 120 mm on the side of the case to blow down the cpu cooler .. or to exhaust and also reverse the vent on the cooler to exhaust ? ( found someone who did it and said it got better results this way for this particular cpu cooler)

Any imput is of great help.
Thanks.

 

[Phuncz]

- Ncase V2
- GTX MSI 760 Twin Frozr
- ATX Seasonic S12II Psu (for now)
- Cpu Cooler Thermalright AXP-100R

What is my best airflow configuration ?

With the ATX PSU and that CPU cooler, you don't have much choice for the side-fans (here is why). Just install your CPU cooler and don't bother with any other fans on the sidepanel until you get an SFX PSU. But why such a small cooler ? recently, Cowsgomoo found out the Scythe Kabuto 2 is a good solution. It should fit with the Asus Impact VI considering the Asus Z77I-DELUXE has about the same socket placement.

The MSI GTX 760 Twin Frozr is an open-style cooler, meaning it will dump all the heat to the sides of the card. It has been said in this topic, maybe a 100 times, that you should avoid open-style cooler GPU's if possible.

Top: blower-style or radial fan --> fan is IN or NEXT TO the heatsink --> air goes out the back (video ports)
Bottom: open-style or axial fan --> fan is ABOVE the heatsink --> air goes out the sides (inside the case)

Basically with this setup, you are going to have a lot of hot air going inside your case and your PSU gets to deal with that.
It is far from ideal and this might lead to overheating components when stressed. In these situations, you want to have as much airflow as possible since you'll want that hot air from the GPU and CPU not toasting your PSU, which is the only exhaust fan you'll have.

But let me first continue on this:

I was thinking to pun 2x 120 mm fans down for the video card - to intake or exhaust ?
And another fan 120 mm on the side of the case to blow down the cpu cooler .. or to exhaust and also reverse the vent on the cooler to exhaust ? ( found someone who did it and said it got better results this way for this particular cpu cooler)

The problem is you can't just put fans under your GPU, they need to atleast be blowing air the same direction which is upwards when installed. So you can't make these into exhausts. Considering you want/have an open-style cooled GPU, maybe it's for the best to have two 120mm fans there so they can help getting rid of the warm air. But there is not much room. Will it help will depend on your GPU's fans and heatsink and your 120mm fans. You'll have to test and try if it matters.

It could very well be that with some undesireable configuration reversing the fan order will be better. Again something that is very dependant on a lot of factors and is easiest to find out by testing.

1.- The reason for put a only one slim fan is for if I place two normal fans, they will be very close of GPU (maybe there aren't space)

That is correct and that's why I generally advise to not use fans there. Like the advice I gave a few lines above: it may be better, but you'd have to test it. See your next point:

2.- the GPU that I have is Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 ti http://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00IGQ4UX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The GPU haves two little fans pushing the air to the right side along of heat dissipator.

The GTX 750Ti doesn't generate a lot of heat so I would just try without any extra fans.

3.- the CPU is a Intel i7

Shouldn't be a problem, most of us are using a Core i5 or i7 and it can easily be cooled with a 240mm radiator.

4.- I have a 450W SFX PSU Silverstone. I think to put the gpu fan pushing air to outside

Yes with an open-style cooler GPU you probably want the PSU's fan using air from outside the case. Otherwise it is going to be recycling warm air from your H100i and from your GPU. It will start making more noise to compensate, you don't want that.

With this configuration, I understand that:
· Your suggestion is all fan push air into the case & the PSU fan direction outside but introducing fresh air to outside?
· As you said, maybe I must miss the bottom slim intake fan over the gpu?
· And the position of the radiator behind or at front of side fans are not important? (Sorry for my english!)

Yes, yes and yes. If you had a more powerful GPU (more heat) I would have recommended you to install the H100i to have the fans to exhaust, so it will pull the warm air from your GPU out. But the GTX 750Ti is not that "hot" so it is not needed I would guess. You can test both but I think it won't matter much.

 

[milkcow]

The MSI GTX 760 Twin Frozr is an open-style cooler, meaning it will dump all the heat to the sides of the card. It has been said in this topic, maybe a 100 times, that you should avoid open-style cooler GPU's if possible.

it has been said that IN THEORY a blower cooler would be better.
Let me tell you, that my MSI 760 stays cool and quite in my M1 nevertheless.


To be fair I have two Noctua NF-F12s (as I had them laying around) installed below the GPU, BUT I also use the Demciflex dust filters, which are quite restricitve and the noctuas are only running at 380-400RPM

 

[Rorschach]

Perfect. Thank you. I will experiment and see what works the best for me.

My specs are what they are because i didn't plan to get the Ncase because i found out of V1 too late and built for the Bitfenix Prodigy M.
And then when V2 came out i said i had to have it no matter what so i sold my mATX configuration and kept every thing that will fit.

Then that cpu cooler because i wanted something to fit both cpu socket orientations : now is near the video slot (MSI B75IA-E33 - something basic that has usb 3 and sata 6 and works with my 2700k and no oc plans ) and wanted to fit as well motherboards like the Asus Impact in the future etc
From reviews looked that will suffice for my needs, will come back with feedback when everything is assembled.

 

[Phuncz]

Thanks, be sure to let us know how it turns out !
Best place your findings here: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1820531
That way it won't be lost in the hundreds of pages this topic has grown into
Please also update the Ncase M1 Google Doc if possible, so people can learn from your findings

 

[JamboAU]

Thanks for your posts Phuncz, I had the same question (H60 SE + SX-600G + R9 290 reference blower). So it looks like my best option is PSU fan oriented inside the case, no additional case fans

 

[Rorschach]

Sure, will do, by the end of this month i hope everything is complete, my ETA is said to be by the 22nd of August. Can't wait.

 

[tetrismaster]

The advantages of the reference cooler in the M1 are well documented, but I can't help but be intrigued with the new Strix semi-passive GPU's. With the SX600-G and a Strix, there could potentially be a near silent system at idle. Though my guess is with dumping all the hot air inside the case, it'll take a while after gaming for the whole system to eventually cool down back to idle temps. Or the CPU cooler will just heat up the whole case and it'll never be idle for too long.

 

[chervas]

Yes, yes and yes. If you had a more powerful GPU (more heat) I would have recommended you to install the H100i to have the fans to exhaust, so it will pull the warm air from your GPU out. But the GTX 750Ti is not that "hot" so it is not needed I would guess. You can test both but I think it won't matter much.

Thank you for all your help!!

 

[Proglin]

It was a good idea to use demcifilter. 8 months since last cleaning

 

[Hanakuso]

Are you using 1 120mm fan and on the right side, a blower style GPU?

 

[Proglin]

Are you using 1 120mm fan and on the right side, a blower style GPU?

It is a open-style GPU, but you are right, I´m using 1 120mm on the left and 1 92mm on the right

 

[Synomenon]

Demciflex top filter:

If we ordered your custom dimension filters:
1 x DEMCiflex Filter Non-Ferrous Black/black O/D 280mm x 150mm (I/D 252mm x 122mm)
1 x DEMCiflex Filter Non-Ferrous Black/black O/D 270mm x 130mm (I/D 242mm x 102mm)
1 x DEMCiflex Filter Non-Ferrous Black/black O/D 100mm x 90mm (I/D 80mm x 70mm)
1 x DEMCiflex Filter Non-Ferrous Black/black O/D 250mm x 120mm as/drawing

(I have this custom set coming in a few days)


do we need this set too:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2...1_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_Set_-_5_Piece.html

?

 

[MightyBoo]

It doesn't make economical sense to purchase these ddmciflex filters. IMHO, black non-ferrous mesh + velcro tape does the same work at significantly lower price.

 

[enyownz]

It doesn't make economical sense to purchase these ddmciflex filters. IMHO, black non-ferrous mesh + velcro tape does the same work at significantly lower price.

I think its actually cheaper on Demci's website. Although your route is definitely inexpensive, some would like the clean install route.
Demcifilter for NCase

 

[Synomenon]

People are spending hundreds and up on their systems. What's $40 more bucks...

 

[AFD]

It doesn't make economical sense to purchase these ddmciflex filters. IMHO, black non-ferrous mesh + velcro tape does the same work at significantly lower price.

It's just a nicer option. If you want economical, just use the included Lian-Li filters that ship with the M1.

(Not that you absolutely need filters. Just take some deep breaths and manually blow the dust out once a month.. it's free! ).

 

[noobzilla]

Will the M1 come with rear exhaust filter? I think it only comes with 4 120mm filters.

I have an extra fan from the Noctua C14 heatsink. It has screw slot for 120mm fan, but 140mm in size. I checked pictures from http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1389-page2.html and it looks like it might fit at the bottom right under the GPU?

Speaking of filters. I wonder if we can petition demciflex to include filters for the top and right side panel instead of making special orders. http://www.demcifilter.com/c220/NCASE-M1.aspx

 

[Zangmonkey]

Why do we need magnetic filters when the case panels are aluminum?

 

[noobzilla]

Why do we need magnetic filters when the case panels are aluminum?

aluminum is not magnetic.

edit: oh I see what you're saying. They come with magnetic strips with double sided tape. You tape it on the aluminum case so the magnetic filter can attach.

 

[milkcow]

Why do we need magnetic filters when the case panels are aluminum?

convenience of removing and cleaning them (aka. no screws needed)

 

[darxider]

thanks all for your replies and helps, and i'm sorry for the late answer (super busy week).

If this RAM problem is a known issue, I wonder why you are worried about the CPU/GPU power draw? Your system probably pulls less than 300W from the PSU.

Anyway, usually when there is a potential memory issue, the best suggestion is to run something like memtest86 overnight.

well, it's not a RAM problem per se, but there are reviews on Newegg about the ASRock Z87E-ITX motherboard where people have complained about DRAM banks on the motherboard failing or not being able to detect the RAM modules.

one of my first RAM modules was DOA, and i have since RMA'd it with Crucial. i tested the two together (a couple of months ago) using Windows's built-in memory diagnostic utility, and it didn't detect any errors. I am now testing them again with memtest86+. weird thing is that the multi-core mode locks up after some time (and also GoldMemory locks up). i'm running memtest86+ in fail-safe mode now, and it hasn't detected any errors yet.

It is NEVER EVER a good idea to hit a computer. Let me restate that: NEVER EVER.

yes yes first of all, i only hit the PC (and only lightly) because i got frustrated ONCE, and it powered up after that when i pressed the power button.

That the problem seems to be resolved after you do this, considering no other factor is the reason like pulling the power plug, this points toward a faulty contact or wire. First start by replacing the PSU with another one. If you have a decent ATX PSU somewhere, hook it up externally until you encounter the problem again. Doesn't happen in 1-2 months ? PSU is bad.

i don't have any other PSU. i might buy the 600W SFX one when it comes out, but i don't have any means of using another PSU as of now. i will have to open up the case and disassemble and reassemble everything, and i will make sure the cabling is not the problem.

the other problem (that might or might not be related to the shutdowns) is that when the computer goes to sleep, it will shutdown randomly. sometimes it wakes up with a mouse click or a keyboard press and sometimes it's completely dead.

A computer PSU isn't rated for the watts it consumes from the wall but how much watt it can deliver to components. With the configuration I have, I wasn't able to pull 400W out of the wall while playing BF4, slightly less actually. So it's only providing about 360-370W at max, which seems to be in line with the hardware reviews.

ah, good to know. thank you.

Like WiSK said, if the problem started with RAM, it will most likely be the cause. If the RAM has been replaced, consider that the motherboard is defective. Next to storage and the PSU, it is one of the most common hardware components to fail.

i'm testing the memory right now. i'll report back. if it turns out to be error-free, i'll call ASRock and set up an RMA for the motherboard.

I have a 4770K and an R9 290 which obviously is not directly comparable but I have the 4770K at 4.5ghz and the 290 is OC'd slightly so it should be pretty comparable power. I haven't had any issues with the power supply being unstable and causing system instability. I have a very similar setup to to phuncz and my results have been the same frankly so unless you have a bad PSU I don't think it's the culprit directly.

yes, i am considering buying this to test the PSU output voltages, to make sure it's fine (or not).

Also if you are having known problems with the ram i would definitely start the trouble shooting from there. If that doesn't pan out you could check out the PSU.

the faulty RAM has been RMA'd. the new one seems okay (although i'm testing the two modules together right now).

Basically if I have the pretties turned up too high (and I've ONLY noticed this in TW2), my system will at some point just turn off. No warnings, no BSODs, no crashes, it just goes from on and running to off. At that point, I can't turn it back on for a bit (usually takes a few minutes and then reboots itself).

ah yes; that's what mine does (it shuts off without any crashes or BSODs), but it doesn't reboot itself afterwards. i have to sometimes reset the CMOS or sometimes unplug it for a while or sometimes hit lightly on the PSU/RAM side of the case, and then it will respond to the power button!

I'm also considering the 500w SFX-L since that should also be quieter given the fan and perhaps will cool itself better.

i might buy the 600W SFX model once it comes out. but people have been running the same hardware as i have on the 450W model with no problem. it's confusing!

I reseated my C12 cooler and RAM last night (still odd temps and crashes with XMP profiles, and Crucial is being extremely difficult to contact about the issue). Now I just gotta figure out my RAM issue, and also why my wi-fi doesn't work coming out of sleep (sometimes it does, depending on RAM settings.. bluetooth always works). Sometimes the only way to correct the issue is to clear CMOS or unplug the PSU.

Take 1 step forward and 2 steps back

did you figure out the problem with the XMP profile or have you disabled it in the UEFI?

 

[thefivetheory]

what happens when your PSU gets overstressed? and how do you determine that it's being overstressed? do you measure the power draw from the outlet? are there crashes/lock-ups?

Actually, another update. After another restart (this time in Mantle BF4 with CPU/GPU temps in the 60s and 70s, respectively) I tried running with my ST45SF-G Demci filter and the side panel removed. No more restarts. Seems like for whatever reason my PSU was overheating and shutting down.

FWIW I did the Noiseblocker fan mod but also saw this behavior beforehand. I guess I'll scrap the Demci filter for now and see how it goes.

On that note, has anyone else using the ST45SF-G with the custom Demci filter seen overheating issues?

 

[darxider]

O

I now have a flappy, loose front panel

Is there any ETA on when W360 will be adding spare parts to the website? I know I can just PM him directly to buy some more clips (is there a limit?), but it would be nice to also order some extra screws and the new shorter internal power cable all in one shot.

And any chance someone wants to crowdfund replacement M1 clips to sell us that aren't made out of total shit plastic? Metal, or coated metal, might work.. but I'm certain there are higher quality polymers that aren't as brittle (whatever plastic the external end of a GLOCK's guide rod is made from would be just perfect.. or the plastic in Oakley glasses, which also withstands a lot of flex).

i would like to know as well. i broke one of the clips on the right side.

 

[cowsgomoo]

Actually, another update. After another restart (this time in Mantle BF4 with CPU/GPU temps in the 60s and 70s, respectively) I tried running with my ST45SF-G Demci filter and the side panel removed. No more restarts. Seems like for whatever reason my PSU was overheating and shutting down.

FWIW I did the Noiseblocker fan mod but also saw this behavior beforehand. I guess I'll scrap the Demci filter for now and see how it goes.

On that note, has anyone else using the ST45SF-G with the custom Demci filter seen overheating issues?

I realized that my bronze 450W watt was roaring when I was gaming with the Demci filter on. It kept roaring for about 2 minutes even after I turned off the game. Decided that it was blocking too much airflow and removed it. Now my PSU is a lot more quiet.
I've since removed all the Demci filters in my case and replaced them with the original filters because I'd rather deal with dust than noise+heat.

 

[milkcow]

Actually, another update. After another restart (this time in Mantle BF4 with CPU/GPU temps in the 60s and 70s, respectively) I tried running with my ST45SF-G Demci filter and the side panel removed. No more restarts. Seems like for whatever reason my PSU was overheating and shutting down.

FWIW I did the Noiseblocker fan mod but also saw this behavior beforehand. I guess I'll scrap the Demci filter for now and see how it goes.

On that note, has anyone else using the ST45SF-G with the custom Demci filter seen overheating issues?

well you have a R9 290X in your system, right?

The psu is already running at is upper limit and the demci filters are rather restrictive, so i wouldn't use them on you ST45SF-G


edit: with the noiseblocker fan change its even worse.

 

[David164v8]

Any update on TW air tracking numbers?

 

[AFD]

did you figure out the problem with the XMP profile or have you disabled it in the UEFI?

Somewhat. I've just been running at XMP#2 (1600/1.5V) and it's been stable so far this week, and temps appear slightly better than they were before (still hotter than disabled, but better than it was.. removing AiSuite and the change to the 140mm CPU fan might be helping). XMP#1 (1600/1.35V) is still unstable.

Also noticed that changing the ASUS Ez-mode setting from standard to optimal causes a change in stability (optimal causes crashes, but doesn't appear to make any BIOS changes). Changing it back to standard (which it always reported it was set to, even after a clear CMOS) seemed to make an improvement.. no idea why (perhaps changes made from AiSuite).

If anything, I think my Z87i-Deluxe just doesn't like this particular RAM.. not sure if Crucial would exchange them for the cheaper Sports (I have a feeling I'd have less issues at stock settings via the Sports JEDEC profiles vs the Tactical's XMP method to achieve advertised timings).

 

[darxider]

i am using Sports' XMP profile (1.35V) on the ASRock Z87E-ITX motherboard. the RAM modules complete two passes of single-threaded memtest86+ (about 3 hours of test), but lock up in about a minute in multi-threaded mode. i'll try other the other XMP profile, or disable it altogether and see if it improves my stability.

thank you, and good luck with your quest!