NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

majic12 said:
Yup!Im still in search for the best case.I like so much the ncase but if im not mistaking,if the case is smow than heat will gather quicly and in order to have it stable the heat will need to be extracted quicly.Im just puzzled with the current ncase air cooling.I think it realy needs to be better and for that in my opinion it shoud grow in size a litle more.

To bloods question.The size limit of the gpu is 260mm.I shaw wait and see how the revision of the ncase goes because i realy want to build a small powerful workstation to get with me on a plane and go to another country in the near future.I did read a story with someone having a bitfenix prodigy on a plane next to him xd but mini itx shoud be the way too go.
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IMO a well thought out build will not suffer from heat anymore then other cases. My temps are similar to the temps I had with my Caselabs S3 and Corsair 250D.

I'd say the difference temp/noise difference would be the PSU. It's comparing apples to oranges tho since my S3 and 250D and a full size Seasonic 660 platinum PSU.
 
I think current components can withstand more heat than people imagine or are comfortable with. Low temperature is just a placebo most of the time. You'll have upgraded your components before they're degraded by heat.
 
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Indeed, CPU's can easily stand 70°C all day long and most GPU's won't be uncomfortable at 80°C. But in the end it's not difficult to have high-end hardware in this case and still have low noise and good temperatures.
 
Phuncz said:
An alternative to the Accelero GPU cooler: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2014/05/07/raijintek-morpheus-gpu-cooler-review/1
It looks like it might fit in the Ncase.

morpheus-9-300x292.jpg
morpheus-10-300x292.jpg


But this won't, probably:

morpheus-13-300x292.jpg
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As adamantium doesn't seem willing to share his res design files (no answer to my pm so far), I am also looking at such a fanless cooler if taking the air route.
Indeed, with an height of 44mm, it will be hard to add fans to it according to the 49mm clearance under the GPU.

Does a sketchup model of the M1 exist?
I would be glad to add measurments to it in order to have them all in the same view.
 
Yeah I would also like a sketch up file because I was going to try and design a tiny internal reservoir, because I really want to do a custom loop and haven't really seen anyone use a T-Line, also just for reference does the Asus matrix platinum GTX 780 Ti fit in with the standard cooler and if not then could I put a water block on it and would it then fit?
 
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ah, so the saga continues...and my computer doesn't turn on again. it was working fine for the last two months or so (before that, i had trouble starting it up, as it wouldn't show any sign of life sporadically -- i posted my experience in this thread a while ago). tonight, i went to start it, and nada, nothing! we had a thunderstorm, but i doubt it could be the cause, as my PC is connected to a grounded surge protector.

the very first time it happened, it turned out to be a faulty stick of RAM (although a faulty RAM should not prevent a power-on but would make the computer beep during the POST); without that stick, it worked fine, although i had to reset the CMOS before it started working. so i RMA'd the RAM and received a new stick, plugged it on, and the computer refused to turn on again...so i opened it up, and made sure everything (especially the RAM) is securely connected and checked all the cables, and then reset the CMOS, and voila, it turned on. tonight, i thought "what the hell, i will reset the CMOS again", but it didn't turn on. it's too late to open it up right now, so i left the PSU cable unplugged, thinking that if there is any accumulation of charge in the capacitors, it would get diffused overnight, so i'll test again tomorrow, and maybe open it up to see what is going on...

however, i think it could be the motherboard, and i'm thinking of RMA'ing it. this whole cycle of showing absolutely no sign of life then working again is just ridiculous. during my first try at assembling my NCASE, i installed the PSU bracket incorrectly (it was installed over the motherboard tray! don't ask how!), and i think what happened was that after i installed the PSU and put the case on its feet, the torque due to the PSU made the bracket move forward and touch the underneath of the motherboard. it that has actually happened (it's just a guess), it could explain why the RAM was acting up, and why after installing the new stick, it refused to start up...and maybe why it's acting up again.

any ideas/tips/help would be greatly appreciated :)
 
PlayfulPhoenix said:
That's AWESOME! :D So many questions!:

1. Have you had this up and running yet? What temperatures are you seeing?
2. What specific radiator did you buy for the bottom? And what fans? Any links to these?
3. Does the radiator prevent you from using the front I/O (by blocking the cables or requiring that you remove them)? Can't quite tell by the images.
4. How difficult was it to route tubing? What components in particular tended to interfere with that? Any particular thinking behind the order of the components in the loop?
5. How did you go about mounting the radiator and fans to the bottom? Did you use any filters?
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This build has evolved from my earlier air-cooled iteration. See Posts 10224 and 11361.

1. Have you had this up and running yet? What temperatures are you seeing?

Yes, the computer had been running at idle in BIOS mode for hours before and after I photographed it—primarily to check for leaks. And, the computer is running now. I’ve been out of town after I posted photographs, so I have not had the chance to use the build for anything other than e-mail messaging and browsing. During these basic functions, CPUID HWMonitor reports that the CPU cores are typically operating at round 33ºC. They appear to spike briefly to around 46ºC, probably when Turbo Boost activates. So far, the GPU has not been stressed, so the temperature has only reached 28ºC. Once I test for temperatures, I’ll post results.​

2. What specific radiator did you buy for the bottom? And what fans? Any links to these?

By the way, I earlier incorrectly reported that the radiators are 25mm thick. They are in fact 30mm thick. :eek:

The radiators are the Magicool 120 Slim Radiator LC RADI120 (155 x 120 x 30mm; 14 FPI) and the Magicool 240 Slim Radiator LC-RADI240 (276 x 120 x 30mm; 14 FPI). I chose them for their dimensions and their fin density, 14 fins per inch. Because I’m using thinner fans that produce lower pressure, I chose radiators with lower fin density. If I had chosen higher fin density radiators, I likely would have used the Koolance Radiator, 1x120mm 30-FPI Copper HX-CU420V (155 x 120 x 30mm; 30 FPI) and the Koolance Radiator, 2x120mm 30-FPI Copper HX-CU720V (277 x 120 x 30mm; 30 FPI).

I’ve placed the 240 radiator on the bottom of the case. The 120 radiator is up above. If Silverstone does in fact release its 600 watt SFX power supply, and I acquire and install the Silverstone power supply, I may tinker with radiator locations. In theory, with an SFX power supply, two 240 radiators could be installed, but I’ll likely continue to use the currently installed 120 and 240 radiator combination. An SFX power supply with the 120 and 240 radiator combination will allow for hard drive mounting.

The fans are Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12 (15mm). I chose these fans for their dimensions and because they are PWM fans. The Gelid Slim 12 PL Blue FN-FW12SlimBPL-16 (16mm) fans are likely a viable alternative.
​

3. Does the radiator prevent you from using the front I/O (by blocking the cables or requiring that you remove them)? Can't quite tell by the images.

No, all of the front I/O cables can be used. They must, however, be routed. The USB cable, which is quite stiff, requires a sharp bend immediately out of the front I/O block.
​

4. How difficult was it to route tubing? What components in particular tended to interfere with that? Any particular thinking behind the order of the components in the loop?

Surprisingly, most of the routing was not that difficult. The most difficult routing is to and from the 240 radiator ports, which, due to connector clearance, must be oriented at the front of the case, where there is more room under or beyond the video card. The primary difficulty is that the tubing will kink if it is bent too sharply. The tubing must have sufficient excess length so as to allow fairly gentle bends. Roughly speaking, the PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8 x 1/2 inch Tubing can bend without kinking no further than the radius of an aluminum soft drink can, e.g., Coke, Pepsi.

By the way, the posted photograph of the front of the case and the 240 radiator with tubing attached to the 240 radiator ports is no longer accurate—insofar as the left side (non-motherboard side) radiator port is concerned. I used a combination of three Koolance connectors (Swiveling Elbow, Low Profile, NZL-LXG2-BK; Swiveling Elbow, NZL-LXG1-BK; and Swivel Angled Compression for 10mm x 13mm, NZL-L10-BK) to achieve much more compact routing before attaching tubing.

I routed the cooling components as follows: Reservoir --> combination pump & CPU water block --> 120 radiator --> GPU water block --> 240 radiator --> reservoir. My thinking was that the reservoir should supply the pump, and the 120 radiator should primarily cool the CPU while the 240 radiator should primarily cool the GPU with its potential for more heat generation.
​

5. How did you go about mounting the radiator and fans to the bottom? Did you use any filters?

Interestingly, the 240 radiator is not attached to the case. It simply “floats”. I use the word “floats” loosely because the 240 radiator is actually secured, in effect, by surrounding components, tubing and cabling. (By the way, the screws from the case feet at the rear of the case protrude into the case and can scrape against the 240 radiator. To prevent the scraping, I placed small washers over the screw tips, and then taped the washers in place.) The fans are simply secured to the radiators with screws. I used shorter screws and inserted the screws only through the lower holes in the fan frames.

I’m not using fan filters yet, but I may choose to install filters at some point.​


Component Information:

Case: M1 NCase (Thank you again Necere and Wahaha360)

Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G-750 750W (140mm ATX) http://www.seasonicusa.com/S12G.htm (As I noted, I will probably use the Silverstone 600 watt SFX power supply if it is released.)

Motherboard: ASUS Z87I-DELUXE https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z87IDELUXE/

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770S http://ark.intel.com/products/75124/Intel-Core-i7-4770S-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz (Delidded with vice method and lapped with mirror method; Why? For the fun of it. :D See YouTube for examples, and the excellent work of Idontcare: http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2261855 )

RAM: Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 16GB (2 x 8GB) SDRAM DDR3 2133 http://poweredbymushkin.com/index.php/catalog/item/4-blackline/806-997125

GPU: EVGA 03G-P4-2782-KR GeForce GTX 780 http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=03G-P4-2782-KR

SSD: Crucial M500 240GB

Reservoir: FrozenQ M1 NCase http://www.frozenqshop.com/m1-ncase-reservoir/ (I also have a cylindrical reservoir from Koolance.)

CPU Water Block with Pump: Swiftech Apogee Drive II http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeDrive2.aspx

GPU Water Block: EK-FC780 GTX Ti – Nickel http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-geforce/geforce-titan-series/ek-fc780-gtx-ti-nickel.html (See the excellent work of Stren at Extreme Rigs http://www.xtremerigs.net/2013/10/03/nvidia-gtx780titan-water-block-roundup/ )

GPU Backplate: EK-FC780 GTX Ti http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/fc-backplates/nvidia-geforce-series/ek-fc780-gtx-ti-backplate-black.html

120 Radiator: Magicool 120 Slim Radiator LC-RADI120 http://www.magicool.biz/product_radiator.htm (It looks as though 27mm generation 2 radiators have been released.)

240 Radiator: Magicool 240 Slim Radiator LC-RADI240 http://www.magicool.biz/product_radiator.htm (It looks as though 27mm generation 2 radiators have been released.)

Fittings: Koolance http://koolance.com/products?path=62
-Compression for 10mm x 13mm (3/8in x 1/2in) NZL-V10-BK
-Swivel Angled Compression for 10mm x 13mm (3/8in x 1/2in) NZL-L10-BK
-Swiveling Elbow NZL-LXG1-BK
-Swiveling Elbow (Low Profile) NZL-LXG2-BK

Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 3/8in. x 1/2in. Tubing (clear) http://tylernm.wpengine.com/product/primoflex-advanced-lrt/

Coolant: Koolance LIQ-702 Liquid Coolant (UV Yellow) LIQ-702YL-B http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=58

Fans: Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 12 (15mm) http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=2722
 
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BaK2BaK said:
Indeed, with an height of 44mm, it will be hard to add fans to it according to the 49mm clearance under the GPU.
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You're neglecting to take the distance from the GPU to the bottom of the top PCI slot into account. According to this document, there's another 14.5mm from the PCB to the bottom of the slot. So maybe 15mm fans would fit?? It'll be tight, but it might work.
 
Yup, it looks like there is something like 60mm free under the GPU PCB.
[email protected] was able to fit an Accelero III (35mm) and some Noctua fans (25mm) in his M1.

So the Raijintek Morpheus GPU Cooler with 44mm and some 15mm fans should fit! :D

In case anyone knows...
Does a sketchup model of the M1 exist?
No?

Apart from that, thanx a lot Gandergray for your detailed post, very instructive!
 
Gandergray said:
This build has evolved from my earlier air-cooled iteration... [lots and lots of information]
Click to expand...

BaK2BaK said:
Apart from that, thanx a lot Gandergray for your detailed post, very instructive!
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This. Your input has resolved just about every question and issue I had, and you went into fantastic detail about everything - even in things I didn't think to ask about! Thanks much Gandergray :D

Gandergray said:
I’ve placed the 240 radiator on the bottom of the case. The 120 radiator is up above. If Silverstone does in fact release its 600 watt SFX power supply, and I acquire and install the Silverstone power supply, I may tinker with radiator locations. In theory, with an SFX power supply, two 240 radiators could be installed, but I’ll likely continue to use the currently installed 120 and 240 radiator combination.
Click to expand...

I've been trying to discern the viability of a dual 240 radiator setup, if only because I've become excited by the idea of seeing how much power you can put into this case. A single 240mm radiator provides enough thermal headroom for a very solid CPU overclock, as well as a good speed bump to a GPU, but not much more than that (without high temperatures and lots of noise, at least). Two radiators, on the other hand, would open the door to much more aggressive overclocking on the GPU. Perhaps even a dual-GPU card, if it fits.

Admittedly, the tight bottom tolerances are giving me pause, but that has mostly to do with the restricted airflow that would be sent through the bottom radiator, given the thin fans and the small air gap beneath the graphics card. Bluntly, I have no idea how beneficial the second radiator would actually prove to be - and since its implementation would come at a high cost in dollars, complexity, and space, I'd rather not go ahead with it if the thermal improvement is limited to just a few degrees.

Yet, such a build remains very alluring to me. Yes, it wouldn't match the Mac Pro in computational-power-per-liter, but for a solution using off-the-shelf components it would be totally unrivaled, while still looking very handsome. And I'd get quite a lot of flexibility and upgradability, which is not so much the case with the Pro. And it would be tailored towards the things I actually do on my computer.

And, of course, it would be the subject of many bragging rights. A 12.6L case with two 240mm radiators? Do you know how many cases there are that can't match that with 3-4x the volume?
 
I have seen Phuncz's fill port mod of the H220 and even thought about doing something similar myself but I am confused about the physics of it, if any bubbles did enter the reservoir wouldn't they just stay at the top instead of going halfway down to go up the tube? And then you would only start to notice a drop in the water levels when the res is already halfway empty, and then to get rid of the air bubbles you would have to turn the case on its side. Although I guess when you have successfully got rid of all the air and were just dealing with evaporation then it would be fine. Please correct me if I'm wrong
 
Peter_364 said:
I have seen Phuncz's fill port mod of the H220 and even thought about doing something similar myself but I am confused about the physics of it, if any bubbles did enter the reservoir wouldn't they just stay at the top instead of going halfway down to go up the tube? And then you would only start to notice a drop in the water levels when the res is already halfway empty, and then to get rid of the air bubbles you would have to turn the case on its side. Although I guess when you have successfully got rid of all the air and were just dealing with evaporation then it would be fine. Please correct me if I'm wrong
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My thoughts as well. I think it might be just fine for a top-up as long as there is no air in the system, but once it appears in the res it will not be possible (or at least easy) to get rid of it through the fillport? Am I missing something?
 
How is the strength of the aluminum? Thin aluminum can be a lot more bendy than thin steel.

Is the second production run a 100% for sure done deal definitely happening? What changes from the original are being implemented in the rev 2? How many cases will be produced for the second run?

And a somewhat unrelated yet still related question, is it possible to get lga 2011 x79 in mini itx or mini dtx? I currently have a x58 system with i7-980x at 4.5ghz watercooled. I guess the more appropriate question would be will lga 2011 v3 x99 be available in mini itx/dtx as who in their right mind would get x79 this late in the game? I ask because I haven't seen any and I worry the fact it needs 4 ram slots for quad channel kills it chances as currently only 2 ram slots fit on the form factor.

I would love to build a tiny mini itx setup like this case offers but I need a 6 core processor due to the large amount of video encoding/decoding i do. Is there any chance we see the high end enthusiast chipset make it to this form factor?
 
There's virtually zero chance for a true ITX/DTX X79, it's simply too large. There's one board that should theoretically fit inside the M1, but you'd need an external PSU - Shuttle SX79R5.

Shuttle-Shows-Powerful-X79-and-Z77-Barebones-3.jpg


I actually considered getting one at first, as i didn't really want to downgrade from my old 3930K, but in the end i have no regrets :).
 
external psu kinda ruins the whole point of it being small and portable tho. Yea I don't think it will be possible. Maybe if they replaced the DIMM's with SO-DIMM's cut the mini pci-e slots and cut 1 pci-e x16 slot. Even put the SO-DIMM's on the back of the board like in some laptops. Theoretically I guess it could be done but who is going to invest the money for the r and d to happen. Doubtful any company would see that as a good use of money. Guess there is no hope for a tiny mini itx x99 build. Upgrading to an octa core on x99 means more to me than the size of the build unfortunately looks like ill have to go with a prodigy micro atx build.

Maybe eventually the die size of the chips for the enthusiast segment will come down for broadwell or skylake or something beyond that.
 
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laststop311 said:
How is the strength of the aluminum? Thin aluminum can be a lot more bendy than thin steel.

Is the second production run a 100% for sure done deal definitely happening? What changes from the original are being implemented in the rev 2? How many cases will be produced for the second run?

And a somewhat unrelated yet still related question, is it possible to get lga 2011 x79 in mini itx or mini dtx? I currently have a x58 system with i7-980x at 4.5ghz watercooled. I guess the more appropriate question would be will lga 2011 v3 x99 be available in mini itx/dtx as who in their right mind would get x79 this late in the game? I ask because I haven't seen any and I worry the fact it needs 4 ram slots for quad channel kills it chances as currently only 2 ram slots fit on the form factor.

I would love to build a tiny mini itx setup like this case offers but I need a 6 core processor due to the large amount of video encoding/decoding i do. Is there any chance we see the high end enthusiast chipset make it to this form factor?
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A million questions there. It's not thin aluminum but its also nowhere near a steel case so it is bendy if miss treated. It looks like it is a go, only thing that would kill it is probably lack of interest. As for all your questions probably not. Just the 4 channel requirement would kill just about any MB thinner than ATX. Heck there is only mATX 2011 for this very reason and even though its full width its only got the 4 minimum memory slots. Heck I am guessing that there won't be a Hero for X99 since it's supposed to be the first DDR4 offering. Unlikely that Asus would feel comfortable retracing a whole new layout for mATX without having a better feel for the tolerances on the retail level.

The only chance I think you will ever see the light of day is in a sodimm form which would kill X99's chances as there won't be DDR4 sodimms for awhile (almost a year) after release.
 
laststop311 said:
external psu kinda ruins the whole point of it being small and portable tho.
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That's true, but it can be done in a relatively unobtrusive way. I actually ran an external PSU while waiting for the Silverstone to be delivered - it was *almost* possible to hide it under the desk and have it completely invisible. To do it neatly, it would be required to mount some extension cables inside the case, with connectors on the back plate in place of the 92mm fan, but it would be entirely doable.

I think it could be an interesting project, a tiny yet super-powerful rig with two single-slot cards, or maybe a watercooled 6/8 core with a big GPU and a discrete sound card...
 
Necere said:
Not quite the same, since there's still a res integrated into the H220's rad, but Phuncz has a fillport in his build.
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Thanks for the mention but I would recommend people doing Herstal's fillport mod, mine is much more intensive to do, needs some parts and requires more work.

Peter_364 said:
I have seen Phuncz's fill port mod of the H220 and even thought about doing something similar myself but I am confused about the physics of it, if any bubbles did enter the reservoir wouldn't they just stay at the top instead of going halfway down to go up the tube? And then you would only start to notice a drop in the water levels when the res is already halfway empty, and then to get rid of the air bubbles you would have to turn the case on its side. Although I guess when you have successfully got rid of all the air and were just dealing with evaporation then it would be fine. Please correct me if I'm wrong
Click to expand...
You are correct, my fillport requires more work to bleed :)

Herstal said:
My thoughts as well. I think it might be just fine for a top-up as long as there is no air in the system, but once it appears in the res it will not be possible (or at least easy) to get rid of it through the fillport? Am I missing something?
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Yeah it isn't perfect, but it allows me to bleed the system without breaking it apart, considering I have my fans in pull configuration. I actually like your fillport mod much more !
 
Oh, the cutout is not a perfect solution either. It's really difficult to actually reach the plug and manipulate it, at least for me - if i could be bothered to fix it, i'd make a larger, elongated opening for additional access. And obviously, the case must be on it's side for access. I suppose it's easier to do the initial bleeding this way, but after that a fillport at the top would be much more convenient, as long as you always keep it topped up. Tbh, i don't even know how often is that supposed to be done, this is my first semi-custom wc loop. It's been running for 2 weeks now, doesn't seem to have lost any water yet.
 
Does any non reference design GTX 780Ti with custom VRMs fit in this case? I have been looking around and I can't find any :(
 
i'm sure this has been asked before, but has anyone done any tests with fans on the outside

7t4Iyni.jpg



vs fans on the inside?
is there any big difference in temps?

nSUGD4B.png
 
illli said:
i'm sure this has been asked before, but has anyone done any tests with fans on the outside vs fans on the inside?
is there any big difference in temps?
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There is no real difference between push and pull configurations from a performance perspective, in any case, with any radiator, etc. If you don't believe me, believe Linus: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyC3lZ5WFMk&t=1m29s

Practically speaking, though, a lot of people prefer pull since you don't have to remove fans to clean the radiator (assuming you don't use filters). For the M1, you'd just pop off the side and wipe any dust off.
 
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Herstal said:
Oh, the cutout is not a perfect solution either. It's really difficult to actually reach the plug and manipulate it, at least for me - if i could be bothered to fix it, i'd make a larger, elongated opening for additional access. And obviously, the case must be on it's side for access. I suppose it's easier to do the initial bleeding this way, but after that a fillport at the top would be much more convenient, as long as you always keep it topped up. Tbh, i don't even know how often is that supposed to be done, this is my first semi-custom wc loop. It's been running for 2 weeks now, doesn't seem to have lost any water yet.
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How'd you cut out the hole for that mod? It came out pretty clean, especially since the bracket bends a bit in the middle of the hole.
 
Drill press. It's soft aluminum though, should be easy enough to do it by hand if you're careful.
 
Not yet, I'm probably going to wait until July, with much work on my hands in the next two months. But why ask ? It's not like it's different much and what I've seen, most motherboards haven't changed all that much, if you are concerned about socket placement.
 
I'm just wondering, what are people considering for reservoirs? I know we just mentioned the H220 fillport mod above and there's the frozenQ one. I wanted to like the frozenQ but the trouble people have had with communication and the quality of the unit have turned me off. I also don't like the machined appearance it has.
 
Does anyone know if ASRock Z97E-ITX (or older version with Z87 chipset) with Phanteks PH-TC14CS fits into M1?
 
Sultar said:
Does anyone know if ASRock Z97E-ITX (or older version with Z87 chipset) with Phanteks PH-TC14CS fits into M1?
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Although air coolers last forever I still prefer 120mm CLC in this case.
1) fits virtually every motherboard
2) easy access to all ports, headers and ram on motherboard, a top-down will cover everything
3) weight resting on the fan bracket instead of the motherboard
 
cowsgomoo said:
Although air coolers last forever I still prefer 120mm CLC in this case.
1) fits virtually every motherboard
2) easy access to all ports, headers and ram on motherboard, a top-down will cover everything
3) weight resting on the fan bracket instead of the motherboard
Click to expand...

-) less air flow on other motherboard components as raditors are often more restrictive
-) more noise (pump on almost every AIO is quite loud)
 
milkcow said:
-) less air flow on other motherboard components as raditors are often more restrictive
-) more noise (pump on almost every AIO is quite loud)
Click to expand...

The SilverStone PSU fan is louder than my H60 pump (rage) and the pump speed can be controlled anyway.
I'm doing push-pull with the H60 which means there's a fan blowing straight at the motherboard.
 
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The "less airflow" argument would be true for any other chassis, but in the M1 fans are blowing air through the radiator directly on the mobo.
 
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Herstal said:
The "less airflow" argument would be true for any other chassis, but in the M1 fans are blowing air through the radiator directly on the mobo.
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Indeed, and motherboards nowadays don't need so much cooling as they have done in the past.
 
Hi

I have a few questions regarding what will hopefully be a future M1 build. Fingers crossed for second production run.

1. Is there anyone here from Europe who can tell me anything about expected shipping cost. I live in Norway but I'm not after exact figures here.
Edit: Just discovered the "Search in thread" function, and the $60 international shipping from before, so this is covered:eek:
2. I really want to qustom liquid cool one of these, but due to cost issues it will probably start off with air cooling everything. Does anyone here have any experience with GPU temps with the open air (non blower style) GPU coolers in this case? Most reviews on SFF cases tend to recommend the blower style coolers to get rid of hot air. I would think two fans in the bottom would help push hot air out the top.

I hope I'm not repeating something that has already been well covered in the thread. I tried to look through it but it's huge, so I had to give up.
 
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Urelure said:
1. Is there anyone here from Europe who can tell me anything about expected shipping cost. I live in Norway but I'm not after exact figures here.
Edit: Just discovered the "Search in thread" function, and the $60 international shipping from before, so this is covered:eek:
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Don't forget about customs! From the NCASE spreadsheet (LINK), it looks like duty for Norway was an additional 134NOK ($22).
 
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