Well i hope so because i've had my PSU shut it self down from overheating, 50C is the temp of the top panel i should read the temp inside the unit i mite run a sensor inside it.
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NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
- Thread starter wahaha360
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Well i hope so because i've had my PSU shut it self down from overheating, 50C is the temp of the top panel i should read the temp inside the unit i mite run a sensor inside it.
We've been over this. Your PSU shuts down. You think it's due to overheating, but since it has no way to report to you the reason it shuts down, you can't be sure. It remains only speculation on your part. Running a sensor inside it will not prove anything, since you don't know what temperature it's designed to shut down. Nor do you know where the PSU's own temp sensor(s) is/are located. Nor what the critical components are, nor what temperature they require for stable operation.
Your system crash can just as well be over-/under-voltage at load, or ripple, or an unstable overclock, or bug in the game you were playing, or bug in the graphic driver. Or something else entirely
Did you check Windows Event Logs after the shutdown?
hshot_rooke
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Yeah, I bid on that auction twice and got outbid. The shipping alone was around $77 US to Canada. I'm kind of glad I didn't win.
I'm in the same boat, impatiently waiting for the v2. Fingers crossed, hopefully I can get one this time around and hopefully there will be a larger quantity produced.
GnomeCop
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there are like 3 or 4 ncases up on ebay (US) now.
I just bought one on ebay right now. $520 for a slightly used black M1. Comes with ST45SF-G, PP05-E, slim bluray drive and H220. Overall I think it was a fair price and I was planning on buying everything except the H220.
Anyone have case #0179 and want to trade plaques?
Wow, this is actually a pretty good price. Nice snag there. I missed out both times when 1st production and reserves. I don't like paying over MSRP so I'll continue waiting for v2.
Yeah it was basically the price of the items at new without a mark up.
My brother really likes the Ncase so I'll probably give him this setup when the V2 and the silverstone 600 gold comes out. Hopefully the timing is perfect!
Still running mine without a dedicated GPU as I wish to have a pretty silent system. Will be interesting to see how the PSU fan reacts to the coming Maxwell cards from nVidia. Hopefully it will be possible to stay below 50% fan speed with a 860 or similar card?
Phuncz
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The Maxwell cards aren't out yet, so we can only guestimate.
A PSU doesn't "react" to a GPU, the fan responds to temperature and/or load. So a 200W card will load as another 200W card, as long as testing criteria and power use is equal.
A PSU doesn't "react" to a GPU, the fan responds to temperature and/or load. So a 200W card will load as another 200W card, as long as testing criteria and power use is equal.
harsaphes
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Ncase reservoirs from FrozenQ......I'm pretty sure mine is sitting unopened in the box. I don't need it. I'll check when I get home. If you live in the NYC area and I have it you can come by and pick it up from the doorman.
orcslayermack
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I just got a notification from paypal that my case has been shipped. What is the origin of the shipments?
so i have a h100i for my ncase m1 build, i am cooling a 4770k.
i was wondering if it wouldnt be better to have the fans pull in cool air from outside the case? i see tons of pictures with people using the h100i and swiftech 220 with the fans on the interior of the case. Why are people doing this?
i want to get the best temps i can and dont want to have to tear this down next week as its midterns week for me.
Any help would be appreciated.
Regards,
V
tldr:Will get better temps pulling the air from the room into the radiator? or pushing the air from the case through the radiator?
i was wondering if it wouldnt be better to have the fans pull in cool air from outside the case? i see tons of pictures with people using the h100i and swiftech 220 with the fans on the interior of the case. Why are people doing this?
i want to get the best temps i can and dont want to have to tear this down next week as its midterns week for me.
Any help would be appreciated.
Regards,
V
tldr:Will get better temps pulling the air from the room into the radiator? or pushing the air from the case through the radiator?
AFD
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Should be coming from W360's pad in New York.. NYC, maybe?
You always get better temps when a radiator has fresh air.
But you are only cooling your CPU. So GPU is air cooled. People have found that the air pressure in the upper part of the case is stopping their GPU from exhausting effectively. So then doing exhaust on the radiator (pushing air out) can help the GPU temps. Maybe. It depends on your configuration and how hard you run your fans, and how high is your overclock, etc.
It's a bit contradictory. To find your best temps, you need to test it out on your own hardware. Whatever anyone writes here can only be a suggestion and not the actual best for your situation.
I don't think it's a big deal in this case to change fans direction. Since we have this handy rad bracket that Necere designed, surely it's just a matter of unscrewing, flipping the fans and checking temps again.
so apparently i messed up, was using the wrong screws for the motherboard, i then realized the psu mount is missing so after fighting with the case for an hour to mount the motherboard i have to take it bck apart and try toi remember what screws mount the psu mount lol. its been a long day and this isnt getting any easier.
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AFD
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Phuncz
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If nobody want's it in that state for that price, they'll be wasting their own time trying to sell it.
harsaphes
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OK. so I have this sitting at home in the box. If you are in the NYC area and want it, let me know and I'll leave it with the doorman. You can have it for free. I'm not shipping it anywhere, just saying.
PM'ed
Since my mobo only has 2 fan connectors I was trying to think of creative ways to hook up a third w/o having to use one of those molex psu cables w/ a 3 pin fan adapter. Has anyone tried using a splitter to attach 2 fans to one fan connector? Is there any harm in doing that? I'm not sure if splitters even exist, but I'm guessing they do?
Yes such splitters exist, and your motherboard manual should mention how much total current it can provide to each fan header. Often you can connect two or even three fans to a motherboard header without any issues. Provided they are not LED fans which tend to draw a lot more current than ones without lights.
AFD
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Yeah, there's all kinds of splitters available. Don't see any harm in using one, if needed..
http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=390&area=en
http://silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=485&area=en
EDIT: Lol, what WiSK just said
That was a good tip. I didn't think to check my manual for that info. I wasn't sure if using a splitter would basically cut in half the amount of voltage to each fan or supply full amount to both, but if it did I seem to recall reading sometimes running a fan out of spec could potentially make it fail a lot quicker.
I'm using a 4pin to 2x3pin splitter that came with some OEM coolit liquid coolers that my work had extras of. They are really low profile I'll see if I can get a picture of it or find more out about it.
D
Deleted member 222586
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I got creative myself
The white cable is a Y splitter. There was just enough space between the fans to hide the fan cables + the splitter itself. So, I just have enough wire outside the fans to connect the 3 pin on the mobo without problems, nor too much cable hanging around
The way I see it, a wire is a wire. most 18 awg wires would suffice, though many psu manufacturers and hobbyists use 16 awg now.
Due to space constraint in the NCase M1, I would prefer flat ribbon style cables (like the silverstone short ones) or the corsair style ones you can buy from FrozenCPU. They fold easily out of the way.
http://www.frozencpu.com/search.htm...=corsair+style+flat+ribbon+wire&go.x=0&go.y=0
Manufacturers use a higher gauge because they don't use copper stranded, but something like tinned aluminium. It's cheaper, but has more resistance than copper.
This seems to have been misunderstood, especially in the sleeving community, that for copper stranded you might also need 16 AWG. Because if the manufacturers do it, must be right, or safer, or something. But copper has different properties.
The thing is that the pins themselves are rated lower than what copper 18 AWG can deliver. I.e. the pins would fail before copper 18 AWG would fail. So there's no benefit in 16 AWG copper stranded.
enyownz
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My M1 came in. My gawd, its beautiful!
orcslayermack
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USPS isn't updating the tracking information. I'm DYING here waiting. I'm so excited.
You know, I haven't said it often, but I do appreciate the kind words. It's easy to get stressed and discouraged about all the little things that aren't perfect, so it's nice to have a reminder that people are genuinely happy with what we've done here.
it's the least I can do.
Honestly, this is the first case I've had where I basically don;t see myself buying another one-- unless I go CFX. Every new computer ive built i always ordered a new case. I just don't see that happening anymore.
One thing I also like to say is that Lian Li deserves a major hat tip in terms of construction and machining. I was a little worried about the case structurally because of how much weight was going to be placed on the top part of the frame. But now that I have the case in hand, it seems rigid and able to withstand the stress of heavy SFX and motherboard/cooling weight combinations. Especially when you consider how often people are going to be assembling and disassembling their computers in this case I was a little worried about it's rigidity long term.
That's my only real critique of the case so far and suggestion to add to the rev2 cases.
Your point is valid that the connectors are the first point of failure. Connectors are designed to be low cost, and they are most susceptible to degradation over time, and they are therefore the weakest link, however, the use of thicker cables still helps with the overall resistance of the cable from PSU to device. (albeit with diminishing returns). Copper as you say also helps with increased conductivity. Your point being that increasing diameter and changing to copper is overkill. From a failure point of view, yes, but its just somewhere to spend a little more money when there is the space and resources to do so (very small difference too)
The connectors add a resistance to the cable, But so does the cable. The amount is very small, but the longer the span, the greater its effect. A small amount of resistance in the cables means for a given Current draw, a portion of the voltage is "reduced" by the end of the cable. The amount of voltage lost is increased with increasing current draw.
The voltage drop, multiplied by the current is the amount of energy lost in to the cables, heating up the cables. Less voltage to the device could mean either, it gets less power, or the device needs to pull more amps to get the power it needs (which means even more power lost to the cables)
The connectors are a fairly fixed item, it cannot be changed, but cable thickness can be changed, and thus a (small) performance improvement can be achieved by thicker cables, and the difference is more significant the higher the amperage passing through it.
The longer the span, the more a thicker cable is needed too. So in the situation with the M1, short cables, small gauge is acceptable. In the case of a large PSU and long cables, a thicker conductor is preferable.
In my cheap PSU $40 things, I can see them using 20 gauge cables, and when drawing the 300 watts through a fewer number of the 12V cables, I can feel the cables heating up to a very warm temperature!!! Certainly loosing more than a few watts there, something that is avoidable with a thicker cable set. But this is an extreme example, and most name branded products should not have a significant issue with what they have chosen to use.
AFD
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Really hope you're not getting discouraged over any of the suggestions in the M1 "improvements" thread, as many of us really had to reach a little to find anything worth mentioning.. nitpicking for the sake of constructful criticism, I guess.
I'm extremely happy with my M1 as it is, and would be satisfied even if your 2nd run was produced exactly the same (cause I'm certain that many who missed out will be very happy just to get one at all).
You guys did a great job, and should be very proud of what you accomplished so far. Think I spent almost 5 years planning and debating over my "ideal" SFF build, and I'd seriously be crushed if I would've missed out on the M1.. I owe you guys a big thank you for making this happen!
yes, please don't take anything to be construed as unhappy with the final product. if I had said anything taken as being negative please don't. As above, I had to really think hard about what few things I came up with. But really all those things I mentioned were negligible. If you happened to just decide to run an identical batch w/o any changes I don't think anyone would complain