That's been done as well, though not something I've seen more than a handful of examples of. Here's one.
That's been done as well, though not something I've seen more than a handful of examples of. Here's one.
While we have some extra time, thought I’d share some photographs of my recently completed M1 build. The hallmark feature is a top-mounted radiator. This build is a dual radiator build, and thus, it also has a second radiator located in the bottom of the case. This build is a continuing evolution of earlier iterations: Post 21266 .
By design, the NCase M1 supports a side-mounted radiator. The case also accommodates a bottom-mounted radiator. This build demonstrates a top-mounted radiator, which is oriented toward, and expels heat out of, the top of the case. In order to accomplish top-mounting, hobby metal (Hillman) and nuts and bolts were used for the support braces, while the beam is aluminum U-shaped trim channel (Hillman). Both can be acquired at hardware stores. Perhaps Necere will design an official rectangular “ladder” bracket for the top of the case.
Design objectives or considerations:
- Liquid cooling
- Pump inside the case
- Reservoir inside the case
- Dual radiators (top-oriented and bottom-oriented radiators)
- Full length GPU
- No case modifications—only bolt-on solutions
- Use of parts and materials available at home
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Case: M1 NCase, Version 6.1 (Thank you again Necere and Wahaha360)
The side panels with perforated holes, which extend to the bottom of the panel, improve cooling performance and aesthetics. And the redesigned bottom better facilitates bottom-mounted radiators.
Power Supply: Corsair SF600 Platinum
Power Cables: MOD-ONE (TITAN RIG) custom-sleeved for a Corsair SF600
Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix X570-I Gaming
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
RAM: 16 GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 288-Pin DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)
GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 XC Gaming
SSD: Sabrent SB-Rocket-NVMe4-1TB
SSD: Intel SSD 660p 1TB
Reservoir: Alphacool Eisstation 80 DC-LT (includes pump top)
The Alphacool Eisstation Enterprise series includes a number of small tops, reservoirs and pumps, which are suitable for SFF builds.
Pump: Alphacool DC-LT 3600 ceramic 12V DC
According to Alphacool, the DC-LT is "powerful enough to cool [a] CPU and GPU with ease". This representation is accurate--at least in a small loop build like this--the DC-LT pump performs effectively. However, it is not a quiet pump. It emits electrical humming or buzzing noise--a type of noise which is typical of a an electric liquid pump. There is another type of noise--some describe it as a buzzing or grinding sound, which with use diminishes or disappears after a number of days or weeks. This noise is caused by contact between the impeller and a small protuberance of the plastic housing. The protuberance is a remnant of the injection molding process. It can be sanded down with 2000 grit sandpaper. As for the operational electrical humming or buzzing noise, perhaps Alphacool or others can design and manufacture housing that will substantially contain and suppress the operational noise. If so, then the DC-LT 3600 may be the ideal pump for SFF builds.
CPU Water Block: EK-Velocity RGB AMD Nickel + Plexi
GPU Water Block: EK-Vector RTX 2080 RGB - Nickel + Plexi
GPU Backplate: EK-Vector RTX Backplate - Nickel
Top Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper X-Flow Dual 80mm
This dual 80mm fan radiator is 60mm thick. Alphacool offers a dual 80mm fan radiator that is 40mm thick. Other options may exist. The 60mm of thickness presents a black "billboard" in this build. The "billboard" has not yet been populated with something of visual interest, but that is the plan.
Fans, top: Noctua NF-R8 redux-1800 PWM
Bottom Radiator: TX240 Ultrathin Radiator
Only 20.5mm thin! Millimeters matter is this case.
Fans, bottom: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM chromax.black.swap
Only 15mm thin!
Fittings: Koolance and Alphacool (HF connection terminal TEE T-piece round)
Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT (clear)
Coolant: Liquid.cool ColourFX Opaque (Blue Sky)
My Ncase M1 v6.1 build is complete with the exception of the optical drive which should be here in a week or so:
Silver M1 v6.1
Slotted top panel (not shown)
Astock Z390 Phantom ITX
16GB 4000Mhz Trident
5x Noctua NFA 120mm
Arctic ACX III GPU cooler
250GB WD Black NVME
2TB Sabrent Rocket NVME
2TB Micron SSD
4TB Evo 860 SSD
MNPCTECH custom feet - black (not shown - new screws are on the way from Bill)
Simplified (power only) front panel (no USB C header on my mobo)
This system is incredibly quiet while gaming and silent when not gaming, I couldn't be more pleased.
I was wondering what your temps were under load?
Nice. I have a very similar setup although I attached the rear 92mm fan to the case rather than the heatsink as that seemed to make a marginal improvement - my logic was that I'd rather draw hot air out of the case directly than have the CPU fans pushing it towards the back of the case, but the difference was only a couple of degrees C.I installed the Noctua NH U9S.
I had to remove one of the side intake fans but I think a single NF A12 should be fine.
I cut out a square from an anti static bag and put it under the filter where the other 120mm fan was to help the air better pass through the cpu area with hopefully less leakage.
A brief 15 minute test in Apex Legends had the cores topping out at 57 to 61C (stock 8700k speeds and voltages)
If I can get it to run cool at 4.8 or so I might keep it, but I can always throw it in a kids pc if I get an x53 later...
Nice. I have a very similar setup although I attached the rear 92mm fan to the case rather than the heatsink as that seemed to make a marginal improvement - my logic was that I'd rather draw hot air out of the case directly than have the CPU fans pushing it towards the back of the case, but the difference was only a couple of degrees C.
67°C seems okay to me. Sure, you could definitely get it lower with other cooling solutions but it's not like these chips will suffer from being run in the mid-sixties.Interesting idea, after extensive play testing, I have cores hitting 67C which seems high for stock settings.
Ultimately, I think I will probably go to an X52...
67°C seems okay to me. Sure, you could definitely get it lower with other cooling solutions but it's not like these chips will suffer from being run in the mid-sixties.
I delidded my 8700k and it makes a huge difference, makes cooling it much easier in SFF cases. I dropped a full 20C.It's certainly workable and not bad for a $59 cooler in the right system, but a better cooler will let you run slower fans and give you some OC headroom.
I was considering pushing it up to maybe 4.8 or so but I don't think this cooler is really suitable for anything much beyond stock speeds.
That said, I have not done a delid yet (I have the tool) and it worked wonders on my 7700K so I do have some options....
I delidded my 8700k and it makes a huge difference, makes cooling it much easier in SFF cases. I dropped a full 20C.
|CPU||AMD Ryzen 9 3950X 16-Core 3.5 GHz Socket AM4 105W 100-100000051WOF Desktop Processor|
|Motherboard||Asus ROG (X570) Crosshair VIII Impact, AMD, AM4, Ryzen 3000, (Mini-DTX) SFF Gaming Motherboard with PCIe 4.0, On-board Wifi 6 (802.11Ax), Intel LAN, SATA 6GB/s, USB 3.2 Gen 2, SO-DIMM.2 and Aura Sync|
|Ram||G.SKILL Trident Z Neo (For AMD Ryzen) Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin RGB DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) Desktop Memory Model F4-3600C16D-32GTZN|
|Power Supply||SF Series™ SF600 — 600 Watt 80 PLUS® Platinum Certified High Performance SFX PSU|
|Case||Ncase M1 V6.1|
|Hard Drive #1||Corsair Force MP600 M.2 2280 2TB PCI-Express Gen 4.0 x4 NVMe 3D TLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) CSSD-F2000GBMP600|
As Nobu says, there are actually two LEDs in the power button. One is for power and the other for drive activity (incidentally, you can use either LED for either purpose), but the important thing is that LEDs have polarity so you have to connect the negative and postive pins to the correct wire or they won't work. Sounds like you have the drive activity LED wired up correctly but I'd wager that the power LED is connected up wrong, so if you flip the power LED connection then all should be well.The LED is working. It is blinking red on startup so I'm assuming the connector is set right?
There should be two LEDs, one for power and another for HDD activity. Unless you're talking about an rgb strip or LED fan?
ok thanks I'll see if that worksAs Nobu says, there are actually two LEDs in the power button. One is for power and the other for drive activity (incidentally, you can use either LED for either purpose), but the important thing is that LEDs have polarity so you have to connect the negative and postive pins to the correct wire or they won't work. Sounds like you have the drive activity LED wired up correctly but I'd wager that the power LED is connected up wrong, so if you flip the power LED connection then all should be well.
It's right at the limit at 226mm, but that board - the H410M-HDV/M.2 - will fit, as will the B460M-HDV.Edit: It looks like it doesn't have an M.2 slot of any sort so... may be a little too basic. But it costs next to nothing so... it's nice to have options. There is a version with a PCIe M.2 slot for $5 more but it has 3 slots, so it won't fit in the M1.
It's right at the limit at 226mm, but that board - the H410M-HDV/M.2 - will fit, as will the B460M-HDV.
Some 3-slot boards will fit, but not all. You need to refer to the board dimensions. All ITX boards should fit, some flexATX and mATX boards will fit, no (Full) ATX boards will fit.Oh right, I thought if there were 3 slots it wouldn't fit, but it's actually 4 slots that won't fit (or spacing for 4 slots rather). Interesting.
However, I amend my previous statement. Those ASRock H410 boards would significantly throttle a 10700. ASRock imposes a 135W long-duration power limit on it's H410 boards, so a 10700 would only boost to about 3.9GHz all-core. With certain MSI H410 and B460 boards, you would get a 255W long-duration limit, so you'd get the full 4.6GHz all-core out of the 10700. ASUS has a 210W limit on one B460 board, the rest are limited to 125W. It gets confusing, it's all detailed in this article:
Basically, if you're gonna go for a non-Z490 and non-K SKU, make sure your board supports a generous power limit, otherwise you won't get the advertised boost speeds. So those H410 boards would only be good up to about a 10400 or so. Still nice to have budget options.
I just got my SF 750 replaced from Corsair for my NCase, pretty fast shipping from DHL as the unit I got came from Amsterdam.I'm going to have to disassemble the system anyway - it turns out my Corsair SF750 is recalled and needs to be replaced.
I just got my SF 750 replaced from Corsair for my NCase, pretty fast shipping from DHL as the unit I got came from Amsterdam.
I received tracking info from Corsair Support Team via email and text messages from DHL.Did you get any kind of tracking info for the replacement? I opened my ticket 15 days ago and 4 days ago they said they were shipping one out but I have no way to know when it gets here.