NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Happy to see that the side panels now have expanded the ventilation openings for open cooler GPUs. That was the only weak point of this case in my opinion. Too bad the side panels are not yet available to purchase separately.
 
Hello,

I had just came home (Singapore), and found out i received my M1 V2. I do not intend to assemble her up anytime soon due to work, but here are the unboxing pics to share:

- The build quality materials are outstanding. I'm impressed with the thoughtfulness of the fine details, such as nice power-on buttons and many more.

- The is the only case out there, which features: +mini-ITX +full-body AL +slot loading + 240mm radiator + long graphics card +minimalistic design.-

- The Silver finishing, looks and feels.... Perfect. Thank you Necere and W360.

This is an update to the post in 2014. Built in 2019, finally completed in 2020.... with the last piece of jigsaw puzzle USB-C front I/O panel.
Samsung CRG90
Stock Nvidia 2080ti
9900K + IC Diamond Thermal Interface Pad
2x 8GB Corsair 3200 LPX
Strix Z390i
2x 500GB NVME Samsung 970 Plus with BIOS Intel Raid 0.... (speed is limited by DMI)
Corsair SF750 Platinum
Corsair RGB H100i AIO attached paired 2x Noctua A12 with NCASE stock metal fan grills.... intake, with 2x small demciflex magnetic filters...
2x Corsair RGB H100i Fans relocated to the bottom.... intake, running at 50% (argus monitor app) due to noise... with 1x big piece bottom demciflex magnetic filters...
Generic SATA DVD drive, Bose companion 20, Logitech Craft keyboard & MX 2S mouse, Hue coloured bulbs & Nanoleaf Canvas to Sync with the display colour.

****look at a dust filter... it is doing magic!
****i have placed 1x translucent anti-slip silicone rubber stud bumper/shock absorber between the edge of the 2080ti & the corner of the corsair fan... to prevent card sag.

This is my final perfect build on the NCASE M1 V2. Thank you Necere and W360.
 

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This is an update to the post in 2014. Built in 2019, finally completed in 2020.... with the last piece of jigsaw puzzle USB-C front I/O panel.
Samsung CRG90
Stock Nvidia 2080ti
9900K + IC Diamond Thermal Interface Pad
2x 8GB Corsair 3200 LPX
Strix Z390i
2x 500GB NVME Samsung 970 Plus with BIOS Intel Raid 0.... (speed is limited by DMI)
Corsair SF750 Platinum
Corsair RGB H100i AIO attached paired 2x Noctua A12 with NCASE stock metal fan grills.... intake, with 2x small demciflex magnetic filters...
2x Corsair RGB H100i Fans relocated to the bottom.... intake, running at 50% (argus monitor app) due to noise... with 1x big piece bottom demciflex magnetic filters...
Generic SATA DVD drive, Bose companion 20, Logitech Craft keyboard & MX 2S mouse, Hue coloured bulbs & Nanoleaf Canvas to Sync with the display colour.

****look at a dust filter... it is doing magic!
****i have placed 1x translucent anti-slip silicone rubber stud bumper/shock absorber between the edge of the 2080ti & the corner of the corsair fan... to prevent card sag.

This is my final perfect build on the NCASE M1 V2. Thank you Necere and W360.

What a powerful build! Is it only for gaming? I like the silicone bumper to support the graphics card.

The filters are working well. How often do you have to clean them? When they are clean do you find they cause your temperatures to rise or the fan speeds to increase (to maintain a desired temperature)?
 
What a powerful build! Is it only for gaming? I like the silicone bumper to support the graphics card.

The filters are working well. How often do you have to clean them? When they are clean do you find they cause your temperatures to rise or the fan speeds to increase (to maintain a desired temperature)?

Yup for gaming only.
This was the first time I opened up the case to install the Front USB-C I/O since my last build in 2019.... so it was about 6 months plus...
Surprised that the components were clean of dust; most of the dust was trapped at the intake side panel and bottom filters.
 
My Ncase M1 v6.1 build is complete with the exception of the optical drive which should be here in a week or so:

Silver M1 v6.1
Slotted top panel (not shown)
Astock Z390 Phantom ITX
8700K (stock)
16GB 4000Mhz Trident
Noctua C14
5x Noctua NFA 120mm
Corsair SF750
GTX1080Ti
Arctic ACX III GPU cooler
250GB WD Black NVME
2TB Sabrent Rocket NVME
2TB Micron SSD
4TB Evo 860 SSD
MNPCTECH custom feet - black (not shown - new screws are on the way from Bill)
Simplified (power only) front panel (no USB C header on my mobo)

This system is incredibly quiet while gaming and silent when not gaming, I couldn't be more pleased.

desk pic 1.jpg
 

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heyho ,

did a unnecessary update to my system , had a msi 2080ti ventus oc installed , the cooler is way quiter than the blower cards .... and i could be happy but i wanted to try something
so i bought a evga 2080ti xc gaming second hand, the cooler on this hard is about 10mm lower than an the msi one , could install 120x25mm fans in the botom again , with the msi one "only" 15mm where possible
and i was surprised to find that evga hath a zero fan mode , msi did 900rpm while idle

post some pictures later , some funny ones , a few screws reach within the plastic casing of the fans
 
hey all you locked downers. I'm looking for something to 'suspend' my Ncase from under my desk. I know I've seen things like this but cant remember where. Any suggestions please?
Thanks.
 
hey all you locked downers. I'm looking for something to 'suspend' my Ncase from under my desk. I know I've seen things like this but cant remember where. Any suggestions please?
Thanks.


I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07657F2SX

doesn't seem to block off enough venting to affect cooling too much, leaves plenty of space above the case between it and the bottom of the desk to allow for hot air to vent out.

i have pics in my completed build page on PCPartPicker: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/X2KBD3
 
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Being bored in lockdown, I'm thinking about making some updates to my NCASE build.

I've been happy with the performance of my C14 on the CPU, however I've never been too pleased with my GPU cooling. I tried installing an Accelero III, and it is pretty effective, but I'm not happy with the installation. It's not really plug and play on the 2080 and requires a lot of custom shimming so I've never been 100% confident in it.

So I'm thinking about doing liquid cooling for the first time. If it was just for the CPU I'd get an AIO, but given that I want to include the GPU, I think I need a custom loop.

What are my options in terms of radiators and waterblocks? It looks like none of the cards with a factory installed waterblock will fit. I've heard the Heatkiller blocks will fit in the NCASE - can anyone confirm? I'm wondering if I can fit a second radiator under the graphics card, or if I'd be limited to one 240mm rad on the side.
 
Hey all Thinking of building a new computer in a Ncase M1 myself. I would very much like to go mini-ITX Ryzen 7 3rd gen. But one of the problems I am running into is find a good ITX mobo that I can bifurcate the PCIE. Want to run 1 Graphics card and my WIGIG wireless card for my wireless HTC Vive VR setup. Got any advice on mobo and bifurcation products to use?
 
Hey all Thinking of building a new computer in a Ncase M1 myself. I would very much like to go mini-ITX Ryzen 7 3rd gen. But one of the problems I am running into is find a good ITX mobo that I can bifurcate the PCIE. Want to run 1 Graphics card and my WIGIG wireless card for my wireless HTC Vive VR setup. Got any advice on mobo and bifurcation products to use?
Gigabyte x570i Aorus Pro Wifi, check page 28 of the manual.
 
Awesome, thanks what spliter would you recomend with it? Also do you think all this will fit in the NCase or do I need to go for a larger case?
I know little about it other than the Gigabyte supports it, check out this thread and ask C_Payne who is an expert in all things Bifurcation.
 
While we have some extra time, thought I’d share some photographs of my recently completed M1 build. The hallmark feature is a top-mounted radiator. This build is a dual radiator build, and thus, it also has a second radiator located in the bottom of the case. This build is a continuing evolution of earlier iterations: Post 21266 .

By design, the NCase M1 supports a side-mounted radiator. The case also accommodates a bottom-mounted radiator. This build demonstrates a top-mounted radiator, which is oriented toward, and expels heat out of, the top of the case. In order to accomplish top-mounting, hobby metal (Hillman) and nuts and bolts were used for the support braces, while the beam is aluminum U-shaped trim channel (Hillman). Both can be acquired at hardware stores. Perhaps Necere will design an official rectangular “ladder” bracket for the top of the case. :)

Design objectives or considerations:
  • Liquid cooling
  • Pump inside the case
  • Reservoir inside the case
  • Dual radiators (top-oriented and bottom-oriented radiators)
  • Full length GPU
  • No case modifications—only bolt-on solutions
  • Use of parts and materials available at home



Buttoned up.jpg Front.jpg Back.jpg Top.jpg Top front.jpg


Side.jpg Inside.jpg Inside up.jpg



Components:

Case: M1 NCase, Version 6.1 (Thank you again Necere and Wahaha360)
The side panels with perforated holes, which extend to the bottom of the panel, improve cooling performance and aesthetics. And the redesigned bottom better facilitates bottom-mounted radiators.​

Power Supply: Corsair SF600 Platinum

Power Cables: MOD-ONE (TITAN RIG) custom-sleeved for a Corsair SF600

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix X570-I Gaming

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X

RAM: 16 GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 288-Pin DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)

GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 XC Gaming

SSD: Sabrent SB-Rocket-NVMe4-1TB

SSD: Intel SSD 660p 1TB

Reservoir: Alphacool Eisstation 80 DC-LT (includes pump top)
The Alphacool Eisstation Enterprise series includes a number of small tops, reservoirs and pumps, which are suitable for SFF builds.​

Pump: Alphacool DC-LT 3600 ceramic 12V DC
According to Alphacool, the DC-LT is "powerful enough to cool [a] CPU and GPU with ease". This representation is accurate--at least in a small loop build like this--the DC-LT pump performs effectively. However, it is not a quiet pump. It emits electrical humming or buzzing noise--a type of noise which is typical of a an electric liquid pump. There is another type of noise--some describe it as a buzzing or grinding sound, which with use diminishes or disappears after a number of days or weeks. This noise is caused by contact between the impeller and a small protuberance of the plastic housing. The protuberance is a remnant of the injection molding process. It can be sanded down with 2000 grit sandpaper. As for the operational electrical humming or buzzing noise, perhaps Alphacool or others can design and manufacture housing that will substantially contain and suppress the operational noise. If so, then the DC-LT 3600 may be the ideal pump for SFF builds.​

CPU Water Block: EK-Velocity RGB AMD Nickel + Plexi

GPU Water Block: EK-Vector RTX 2080 RGB - Nickel + Plexi

GPU Backplate: EK-Vector RTX Backplate - Nickel

Top Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper X-Flow Dual 80mm
This dual 80mm fan radiator is 60mm thick. Alphacool offers a dual 80mm fan radiator that is 40mm thick. Other options may exist. The 60mm of thickness presents a black "billboard" in this build. The "billboard" has not yet been populated with something of visual interest, but that is the plan.​

Fans, top: Noctua NF-R8 redux-1800 PWM

Bottom Radiator: TX240 Ultrathin Radiator
Only 20.5mm thin! Millimeters matter is this case.​

Fans, bottom: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM chromax.black.swap
Only 15mm thin!​

Fittings: Koolance and Alphacool (HF connection terminal TEE T-piece round)

Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT (clear)

Coolant: Liquid.cool ColourFX Opaque (Blue Sky)
 

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While we have some extra time, thought I’d share some photographs of my recently completed M1 build. The hallmark feature is a top-mounted radiator. This build is a dual radiator build, and thus, it also has a second radiator located in the bottom of the case. This build is a continuing evolution of earlier iterations: Post 21266 .

By design, the NCase M1 supports a side-mounted radiator. The case also accommodates a bottom-mounted radiator. This build demonstrates a top-mounted radiator, which is oriented toward, and expels heat out of, the top of the case. In order to accomplish top-mounting, hobby metal (Hillman) and nuts and bolts were used for the support braces, while the beam is aluminum U-shaped trim channel (Hillman). Both can be acquired at hardware stores. Perhaps Necere will design an official rectangular “ladder” bracket for the top of the case. :)

Design objectives or considerations:
  • Liquid cooling
  • Pump inside the case
  • Reservoir inside the case
  • Dual radiators (top-oriented and bottom-oriented radiators)
  • Full length GPU
  • No case modifications—only bolt-on solutions
  • Use of parts and materials available at home



View attachment 244465 View attachment 244466 View attachment 244467 View attachment 244472 View attachment 244473


View attachment 244474 View attachment 244475 View attachment 244476



Components:

Case: M1 NCase, Version 6.1 (Thank you again Necere and Wahaha360)
The side panels with perforated holes, which extend to the bottom of the panel, improve cooling performance and aesthetics. And the redesigned bottom better facilitates bottom-mounted radiators.​

Power Supply: Corsair SF600 Platinum

Power Cables: MOD-ONE (TITAN RIG) custom-sleeved for a Corsair SF600

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix X570-I Gaming

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X

RAM: 16 GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 288-Pin DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)

GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 XC Gaming

SSD: Sabrent SB-Rocket-NVMe4-1TB

SSD: Intel SSD 660p 1TB

Reservoir: Alphacool Eisstation 80 DC-LT (includes pump top)
The Alphacool Eisstation Enterprise series includes a number of small tops, reservoirs and pumps, which are suitable for SFF builds.​

Pump: Alphacool DC-LT 3600 ceramic 12V DC
According to Alphacool, the DC-LT is "powerful enough to cool [a] CPU and GPU with ease". This representation is accurate--at least in a small loop build like this--the DC-LT pump performs effectively. However, it is not a quiet pump. It emits electrical humming or buzzing noise--a type of noise which is typical of a an electric liquid pump. There is another type of noise--some describe it as a buzzing or grinding sound, which with use diminishes or disappears after a number of days or weeks. This noise is caused by contact between the impeller and a small protuberance of the plastic housing. The protuberance is a remnant of the injection molding process. It can be sanded down with 2000 grit sandpaper. As for the operational electrical humming or buzzing noise, perhaps Alphacool or others can design and manufacture housing that will substantially contain and suppress the operational noise. If so, then the DC-LT 3600 may be the ideal pump for SFF builds.​

CPU Water Block: EK-Velocity RGB AMD Nickel + Plexi

GPU Water Block: EK-Vector RTX 2080 RGB - Nickel + Plexi

GPU Backplate: EK-Vector RTX Backplate - Nickel

Top Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper X-Flow Dual 80mm
This dual 80mm fan radiator is 60mm thick. Alphacool offers a dual 80mm fan radiator that is 40mm thick. Other options may exist. The 60mm of thickness presents a black "billboard" in this build. The "billboard" has not yet been populated with something of visual interest, but that is the plan.​

Fans, top: Noctua NF-R8 redux-1800 PWM

Bottom Radiator: TX240 Ultrathin Radiator
Only 20.5mm thin! Millimeters matter is this case.​

Fans, bottom: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM chromax.black.swap
Only 15mm thin!​

Fittings: Koolance and Alphacool (HF connection terminal TEE T-piece round)

Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT (clear)

Coolant: Liquid.cool ColourFX Opaque (Blue Sky)

What an impressive build! So much planning must have gone into it and it's evident by how clean and open the interior is. I'm thinking the 3-way splitter and cables behind the front panel must be for fans, but the connectors are unlike any I've seen before.
 
It looks like a LED splitter.
Ah, that makes more sense. Thanks. Really nice routing of all the cables. I escpecially liked how the cables from the 3 fan headers above the CPU socket are folded back, over, and behind the motherboard.
 
My 2080TI FE has been thermal throttling 88°c for many months in my V2 chassis at stock frequency profile.... even with 2x intake bottom fans

Decided to remove both side panels. And now it peaks at 81°c...even in furmark!

This is painful, but I have decided to purchase the new silver V6 edition "Full Panel Kit" that includes the "Extended ventilated area"

The amount of money I spent on this case... plus the upgrade of I/O, and now the full panel kit with extended ventilated area... It is overkill.
 
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What an impressive build! So much planning must have gone into it and it's evident by how clean and open the interior is. I'm thinking the 3-way splitter and cables behind the front panel must be for fans, but the connectors are unlike any I've seen before.
Thank you very much. You are spot on--I started thinking about the build in the late summer or early autumn of 2019, and acquiring parts then as well. The connectors and associated motherboard headers that you reference are for fans and the pump. They are Noctua extension cables which have been gently bent over the shaft of a small screwdriver and then zip tied in place.
 
My 2080TI FE has been thermal throttling 88°c for many months in my V2 chassis at stock frequency profile.... even with 2x intake bottom fans

If you’re not opposed to running msi afterburner and spending 30 minutes tweaking the voltage curve, you can probably save yourself some noise without sacrificing performance by undervolting
 
My 2080TI FE has been thermal throttling 88°c for many months in my V2 chassis at stock frequency profile.... even with 2x intake bottom fans
I have a v4, and installed a 2080 Super FE a little over a week ago. I think this card runs about as hot as the 2080 Ti. I don't seem to have a thermal throttling problem, although I'll have to do further testing to confirm.

What are you using for your bottom fans?
 
Has anyone done an M1 build with a custom loop using a d5 pump? It seems like the only option would be to mount it on the rear of the case, but the extra reliability and lower noise sounds appealing.
 
Has anyone done an M1 build with a custom loop using a d5 pump? It seems like the only option would be to mount it on the rear of the case, but the extra reliability and lower noise sounds appealing.
There's no room internally for a D5 with a side rad, but lots of people have done it with a bottom rad: https://www.google.com/search?q=ncase+m1+watercooled&tbm=isch

Not that I recommend a bottom rad - it's more for looks/challenge than performance, with the slim fans and restricted airflow.
 
There's no room internally for a D5 with a side rad, but lots of people have done it with a bottom rad: https://www.google.com/search?q=ncase+m1+watercooled&tbm=isch

Not that I recommend a bottom rad - it's more for looks/challenge than performance, with the slim fans and restricted airflow.

Looks great, but I think I'd want that side rad which would limit me to a rear mount. Was thinking about mounting one of the Optimus d5 pumps on the rear of the case.

optimus-reservoir-d5-system-main-70mm-1_2000x.jpg
 
Howdy,

I was wondering what your temps were under load?

While we have some extra time, thought I’d share some photographs of my recently completed M1 build. The hallmark feature is a top-mounted radiator. This build is a dual radiator build, and thus, it also has a second radiator located in the bottom of the case. This build is a continuing evolution of earlier iterations: Post 21266 .

By design, the NCase M1 supports a side-mounted radiator. The case also accommodates a bottom-mounted radiator. This build demonstrates a top-mounted radiator, which is oriented toward, and expels heat out of, the top of the case. In order to accomplish top-mounting, hobby metal (Hillman) and nuts and bolts were used for the support braces, while the beam is aluminum U-shaped trim channel (Hillman). Both can be acquired at hardware stores. Perhaps Necere will design an official rectangular “ladder” bracket for the top of the case. :)

Design objectives or considerations:
  • Liquid cooling
  • Pump inside the case
  • Reservoir inside the case
  • Dual radiators (top-oriented and bottom-oriented radiators)
  • Full length GPU
  • No case modifications—only bolt-on solutions
  • Use of parts and materials available at home



View attachment 244465 View attachment 244466 View attachment 244467 View attachment 244472 View attachment 244473


View attachment 244474 View attachment 244475 View attachment 244476



Components:

Case: M1 NCase, Version 6.1 (Thank you again Necere and Wahaha360)
The side panels with perforated holes, which extend to the bottom of the panel, improve cooling performance and aesthetics. And the redesigned bottom better facilitates bottom-mounted radiators.​

Power Supply: Corsair SF600 Platinum

Power Cables: MOD-ONE (TITAN RIG) custom-sleeved for a Corsair SF600

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix X570-I Gaming

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X

RAM: 16 GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 288-Pin DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600)

GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 XC Gaming

SSD: Sabrent SB-Rocket-NVMe4-1TB

SSD: Intel SSD 660p 1TB

Reservoir: Alphacool Eisstation 80 DC-LT (includes pump top)
The Alphacool Eisstation Enterprise series includes a number of small tops, reservoirs and pumps, which are suitable for SFF builds.​

Pump: Alphacool DC-LT 3600 ceramic 12V DC
According to Alphacool, the DC-LT is "powerful enough to cool [a] CPU and GPU with ease". This representation is accurate--at least in a small loop build like this--the DC-LT pump performs effectively. However, it is not a quiet pump. It emits electrical humming or buzzing noise--a type of noise which is typical of a an electric liquid pump. There is another type of noise--some describe it as a buzzing or grinding sound, which with use diminishes or disappears after a number of days or weeks. This noise is caused by contact between the impeller and a small protuberance of the plastic housing. The protuberance is a remnant of the injection molding process. It can be sanded down with 2000 grit sandpaper. As for the operational electrical humming or buzzing noise, perhaps Alphacool or others can design and manufacture housing that will substantially contain and suppress the operational noise. If so, then the DC-LT 3600 may be the ideal pump for SFF builds.​

CPU Water Block: EK-Velocity RGB AMD Nickel + Plexi

GPU Water Block: EK-Vector RTX 2080 RGB - Nickel + Plexi

GPU Backplate: EK-Vector RTX Backplate - Nickel

Top Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper X-Flow Dual 80mm
This dual 80mm fan radiator is 60mm thick. Alphacool offers a dual 80mm fan radiator that is 40mm thick. Other options may exist. The 60mm of thickness presents a black "billboard" in this build. The "billboard" has not yet been populated with something of visual interest, but that is the plan.​

Fans, top: Noctua NF-R8 redux-1800 PWM

Bottom Radiator: TX240 Ultrathin Radiator
Only 20.5mm thin! Millimeters matter is this case.​

Fans, bottom: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM chromax.black.swap
Only 15mm thin!​

Fittings: Koolance and Alphacool (HF connection terminal TEE T-piece round)

Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT (clear)

Coolant: Liquid.cool ColourFX Opaque (Blue Sky)
 
My Ncase M1 v6.1 build is complete with the exception of the optical drive which should be here in a week or so:

Silver M1 v6.1
Slotted top panel (not shown)
Astock Z390 Phantom ITX
8700K (stock)
16GB 4000Mhz Trident
Noctua C14
5x Noctua NFA 120mm
Corsair SF750
GTX1080Ti
Arctic ACX III GPU cooler
250GB WD Black NVME
2TB Sabrent Rocket NVME
2TB Micron SSD
4TB Evo 860 SSD
MNPCTECH custom feet - black (not shown - new screws are on the way from Bill)
Simplified (power only) front panel (no USB C header on my mobo)

This system is incredibly quiet while gaming and silent when not gaming, I couldn't be more pleased.


Nice to see some LS50s - excellent choice :)
 
Howdy,

I was wondering what your temps were under load?

Hello:

I ran the Heaven benchmark and Prime95 (these were originally used to test this case and can serve as a baseline reference) simultaneously for a half hour at 2560 x 1440 resolution.

CPU: Maximum: 76 C . . . Average: 59 C
GPU: Maximum: 59 C . . . Average: 50 C

Ambient temperature: 21.7 C

IMG_0230.jpg
 
I swapped my Z390 Phantom ITX board to my sons pc and got myself the Z390 Strix board.

Well, it turns out that the C14 cooler hits the backplane/heatsink on the Strix and is not usable. I tried all orientations, no luck.

Most 240 AIOs (x53 specifically) are on backorder so I installed a Noctua UH12A and I'm letting it hang out the side while I figure out what to do...
JPEG_20200527_122511.jpg
 
I installed the Noctua NH U9S.

I had to remove one of the side intake fans but I think a single NF A12 should be fine.

I cut out a square from an anti static bag and put it under the filter where the other 120mm fan was to help the air better pass through the cpu area with hopefully less leakage.

A brief 15 minute test in Apex Legends had the cores topping out at 57 to 61C (stock 8700k speeds and voltages)

If I can get it to run cool at 4.8 or so I might keep it, but I can always throw it in a kids pc if I get an x53 later...

20200530_130307.jpg
 

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I installed the Noctua NH U9S.

I had to remove one of the side intake fans but I think a single NF A12 should be fine.

I cut out a square from an anti static bag and put it under the filter where the other 120mm fan was to help the air better pass through the cpu area with hopefully less leakage.

A brief 15 minute test in Apex Legends had the cores topping out at 57 to 61C (stock 8700k speeds and voltages)

If I can get it to run cool at 4.8 or so I might keep it, but I can always throw it in a kids pc if I get an x53 later...
Nice. I have a very similar setup although I attached the rear 92mm fan to the case rather than the heatsink as that seemed to make a marginal improvement - my logic was that I'd rather draw hot air out of the case directly than have the CPU fans pushing it towards the back of the case, but the difference was only a couple of degrees C.
 
Nice. I have a very similar setup although I attached the rear 92mm fan to the case rather than the heatsink as that seemed to make a marginal improvement - my logic was that I'd rather draw hot air out of the case directly than have the CPU fans pushing it towards the back of the case, but the difference was only a couple of degrees C.

Interesting idea, after extensive play testing, I have cores hitting 67C which seems high for stock settings.

Ultimately, I think I will probably go to an X52...
 
Interesting idea, after extensive play testing, I have cores hitting 67C which seems high for stock settings.

Ultimately, I think I will probably go to an X52...
67°C seems okay to me. Sure, you could definitely get it lower with other cooling solutions but it's not like these chips will suffer from being run in the mid-sixties.
 
67°C seems okay to me. Sure, you could definitely get it lower with other cooling solutions but it's not like these chips will suffer from being run in the mid-sixties.

It's certainly workable and not bad for a $59 cooler in the right system, but a better cooler will let you run slower fans and give you some OC headroom.

I was considering pushing it up to maybe 4.8 or so but I don't think this cooler is really suitable for anything much beyond stock speeds.

That said, I have not done a delid yet (I have the tool) and it worked wonders on my 7700K so I do have some options....
 
It's certainly workable and not bad for a $59 cooler in the right system, but a better cooler will let you run slower fans and give you some OC headroom.

I was considering pushing it up to maybe 4.8 or so but I don't think this cooler is really suitable for anything much beyond stock speeds.

That said, I have not done a delid yet (I have the tool) and it worked wonders on my 7700K so I do have some options....
I delidded my 8700k and it makes a huge difference, makes cooling it much easier in SFF cases. I dropped a full 20C.
 
I delidded my 8700k and it makes a huge difference, makes cooling it much easier in SFF cases. I dropped a full 20C.

Yeah, it was 20C+ on my 7700k and it helped hit the 4000mhz XMP that it couldn't hit before the delid.
 
Really wanted to try out a D5 pump with Ncase M1 without sacrificing side mount 240mm radiator so came up with this a few years back. Some pictures of the fabricated part and getting it test fitted for first time couple days ago. Cheers.

IMG_20191109_110453.jpgIMG_20191109_111142.jpgIMG_20200603_082201.jpgIMG_20200603_082635.jpgIMG_20200603_151052.jpg
 
I delidded my 8700k and it makes a huge difference, makes cooling it much easier in SFF cases. I dropped a full 20C.

Decided to go ahead and do the delid.

I couldn't find my Conductonaut so I ordered some more - and as soon as it shipped, I found my original stash.

I'm going to have to disassemble the system anyway - it turns out my Corsair SF750 is recalled and needs to be replaced.

So while I'm in there, I'm going to do the CPU and also put the full function front panel back in - my previous board didn't have a USB-C header and I didn't really use the audio jack or need the USB ports so I went with the power button only panel, but if I can make it fit, I think I'm going back.


https://www.anandtech.com/show/15829/corsair-sf-series-psu-recall

 
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