NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Boil said:
The 140s might not fit, but a pair of 120s will...?

I also am in the Coffee & Cream VS. Black camp...
I have purchased a 'poop brown' NF-A9 PWM fan for my rear exhaust (Cerberus chassis), it will be replaced with a black version in October...
I have two NF-S12A PWM fans I will use until the black 12x25s come out, and I will use the stock fans on my Fractal Design Celsius S24 AIO unitl I can replace those with a pair of 12x25s...

The sacrifices we make for quite cooling...!?!

From the Noctua website:

In the chromax line, Noctua showed all-black versions of the NH-D15, NH-U12S and NH-L9i as well as black versions of the NF-A20, NF-A9, NF-A9x14 and NF-A8 fans, all of which are scheduled for release in Q4 2019. The black versions of the NF-A12x25 and NF-A12x15 that were on display are on the roadmap for the first half of 2020. In addition to its black chromax line fans, Noctua displayed white variants of the NF-A15, NF-A14 and NF-F12 that are targeted for the first half of 2020 as well. The chromax line heatsink covers for the NH-U14S and NH-U14S TR4-SP3 will be available shortly.
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I’ve actually already managed to mount two 140mm fans bellow the gpu see my post with picture above. It’s a Gigabyte rtx 2080 windforce with two TY147’s beneath it. I’ll start with mounting my cpu cooler and all the other intake/exhaust fans and see how my overal temps will be. If needed I’ll purchase the Arctic Accelero!

It’s SO nice to see that Noctua is finally releasing more black fans. Have to say I like the grey-ish ones as well to be honest.
 
So it has passed many years as there has been no tangible performance uplift from i7-4770k. But now its time to build a new M1 build and retire the old one in original v1 M1, maybe I need to "museum" it :).

It also seems that it would be all AMD this time around and not with greatest performance as the gaming part is lot less nowdays for some reason.


What is the most quiet way to build cooling today in M1, I like watercooling, but is it really worth it what comes to loudness and dust mitigation of insedes of the case?

So Necere no changelog yet for V6?
 
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I wish they would do an A version of the 92mm fan. They're working on 140mm now, but I hope 92mm is next. They really take their time.
 
TurpoUrpo said:
So it has passed many years as there has been no tangible performance uplift from i7-4770k. But now its time to build a new M1 build and retire the old one in original v1 M1, maybe I need to "museum" it :).

It also seems that it would be all AMD this time around and not with greatest performance as the gaming part is lot less nowdays for some reason.


What is the most quiet way to build cooling today in M1, I like watercooling, but is it really worth it what comes to loudness and dust mitigation of insedes of the case?

So Necere no changelog yet for V6?
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Still got my 4770k going in an NCASE M1 v1 from the initial batch. I've upgraded the GPU but have found no reason to upgrade the CPU yet. I'd definitely go team red with an Accelero 3 cooler and some Noctua fans.
 
Smitty2k1 said:
Still got my 4770k going in an NCASE M1 v1 from the initial batch. I've upgraded the GPU but have found no reason to upgrade the CPU yet. I'd definitely go team red with an Accelero 3 cooler and some Noctua fans.
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I'm in the same situation almost (4790K). I'm in no rush, but a new Zen 2 in my Rev. 4 M1 is awfully tempting.

BTW, did you see Optimum Tech's video today? He was able to undervolt a 3900X to only 1.0 Volt. This really reduced the power draw and hence its temperature. Unfortunately, it also caused a performance hit so he pulled the video until he can do more testing to find out at what voltage the performance drop occurs and how much of a drop there is.
 
Waiting for V6 be like
20190715_205924.jpg
 
Qrash said:
BTW, did you see Optimum Tech's video today? He was able to undervolt a 3900X to only 1.0 Volt. This really reduced the power draw and hence its temperature. Unfortunately, it also caused a performance hit so he pulled the video until he can do more testing to find out at what voltage the performance drop occurs and how much of a drop there is.
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The problem is with this low voltage the clock speeds are lower too, but the monitoring tools only count and detect the peak clock speeds, that's why the perfomance is decreased in real world. This mechanism for the AMD CPU is called "Clock Stretching", so the boost clock looks like you have a all core speed like 4.2 GHz, but the true is your all core speed is lower, to avoid with undervolt settings a unstable system. So it's better to manually set the voltage/clock instead of using the boost and "auto" settings to gain to perfomance and lower power draw.

I only can share a German source for this, but I think with Google Translator it should be ok to understand: https://www.hardwareluxx.de/index.p...uen-ryzen-prozessoren-wenig-effektiv-ist.html
 
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AG1M said:
The problem is with this low voltage the clock speeds are lower too, but the monitoring tools only count and detect the peak clock speeds, that's why the perfomance is decreased in real world. This mechanism for the AMD CPU is called "Clock Stretching", so the boost clock looks like you have a all core speed like 4.2 GHz, but the true is your all core speed is lower, to avoid with undervolt settings a unstable system. So it's better to manually set the voltage/clock instead of using the boost and "auto" settings to gain to perfomance and lower power draw.

I only can share a German source for this, but I think with Google Translator it should be ok to understand: https://www.hardwareluxx.de/index.p...uen-ryzen-prozessoren-wenig-effektiv-ist.html
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Thanks for the link. I will definitely check it out.

Yeah, Optimum Tech posted a follow-up video today that stated the previous one was in error. It seems undervolting in the BIOS doesn't work right for Zen 2 CPUs so he used Ryzen Master to undervolt. This application forces the user to set an all-core fixed clock speed when adjusting the Vcore. So, Ryzen's normal boosting behaviour is disabled which adversely affects single and lightly threaded tasks. Anyway, the performance decrease when undervolting this way will vary between applications so it might not be too bad and the heating load is less. Still, who buys a 3900X and then downclocks it (effectively)?
 
DoubleTap said:
Are you selling one?

I've been interested in one for a few years and never got around to getting one. Kind of bummed to see the optical drive version discontinued as I have a slot blu-ray drive just sitting around....

I couldn't find anything definitive on V6
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I have a black slot top panel I'd trade for a non slotted.
 
Hi guys, currently using a V4. It's time to put an end to my computer that have survived 5 years and many case swaps. I do not plan to keep anything in my current build beside my PSU which is a silverstone SFX 450 is im not wrong.

I want to give AMD a try and im planning on going with a 3700x. Would you recommend the MSI b450i for the case?

I'm planning on going air cooling and want to get the U9S as it seems like the "safest" option in terms of compatibility, do you think the C14s would fit this motherboard?
 
brahbruh said:
Hi guys, currently using a V4. It's time to put an end to my computer that have survived 5 years and many case swaps. I do not plan to keep anything in my current build beside my PSU which is a silverstone SFX 450 is im not wrong.

I want to give AMD a try and im planning on going with a 3700x. Would you recommend the MSI b450i for the case?

I'm planning on going air cooling and want to get the U9S as it seems like the "safest" option in terms of compatibility, do you think the C14s would fit this motherboard?
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I just checked Noctua's site and the C14S is listed as fully compatible with the B450i, not sure if you will need it but it should give you the best cooling in the M1. I am also about to do a new Ryzen build and went with the B450i, from all the comments I have read it seems to be the preferred motherboard from the 400 series. Good VRM's and price is very competitive. Just remember you are going to have to update the BIOS.
 
Also keep in mind that to use a 140mm fan under the c14s, the psu must be in the ATX position. You can use the normal SFX mounting if you use a 120mm fan instead (and Noctua will be happy to send you clips). Also note that you can only fit a slim fan on top of the c14s in the M1, e.g. a Noctua a12x15.

I do think a U9S will be adequate cooling, though, which is much easier to work with and probably cheaper
 
Love the new feet, similar to OptimumTech's 3D printed ones. Great work!

Necere
Question -- will the new feet be sold separately and compatible with V5? And the exact same question for the new front I/O?
 
QuantumBraced said:
Love the new feet, similar to OptimumTech's 3D printed ones. Great work!

Necere
Question -- will the new feet be sold separately and compatible with V5? And the exact same question for the new front I/O?
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Front I/O yes, feet probably not. I changed the feet screws to M4 just for better thread holding, so the new feet are designed for the larger M4 screws and the standard M3s used on the <=V5 would be too small.

The other thing with the feet is that since it's a single screw holding each one in place, they'd get out of alignment on the <=V5. On the V6, they're sort of walled in by edges of the new steel bottom plate, so they can't really move around.
 
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Necere said:
Front I/O yes, feet probably not. I changed the feet screws to M4 just for better thread holding, so the new feet are designed for the larger M4 screws and the standard M3s used on the <=V5 would be too small.

The other thing with the feet is that since it's a single screw holding each one in place, they'd get out of alignment on the <=V5. On the V6, they're sort of walled in by edges of the new steel bottom plate, so they can't really move around.
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I see, thank you. I guess you could still do M3 screw + nut? And then it would just require a bit more care and/or screwing them really hard to avoid them getting out of alignment. Doable?

OptimumTech has 3D printed feet which are very similar to your new ones, on a V5 (or older) and they are always aligned in the videos :D :D
 
QuantumBraced said:
I see, thank you. I guess you could still do M3 screw + nut? And then it would just require a bit more care and/or screwing them really hard to avoid them getting out of alignment. Doable?
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M3 screw+washer could work, has to be no more than 8.5mm in diameter though. Screwing in the feet really hard isn't a great idea, since they are rubber and the walls will start to deform under the pressure from the screw.
 
Not sure if GPU compatibility is still being collated anywhere but the ASUS Dual 2070 SUPER fits in nicely:

99vzUgs.jpg


Thinking of removing the shroud and trying 2 120mm fans below. Anyone got any particular advice here or a guide I should follow?

V6 looks fantastic. I do agree that the full side grill maybe doesn't look as good but if it lowers GPU temps then that would be worth it. Would be very interested to see temperature comparisons.
 
Hi guys,

I just finalized the parts im gonna get and would like to ask if you guys think there would be any problem with parts possibly colliding. Will be used in a V4.

CPU + Mobo: MSI b450i + 3700x (the MSI board seems to be recommended, is there anything i should look into?)
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 3200 CAS 16 (The heatsink on this seems kind of big?)
SSD: Corsair MP510
Cooler: Noctua C14S (with stock fan mounted at the bottom) (If i do not plan on overclocking would you recommend the U9S over the C14S if acoustics is of main importance?)
PSU: Corsair SF600
GPU: Stock 980ti + Accelero III (Noctua NF-F12 x2) (Or should I go with cheaper fans for exhaust? Acoustics is a huge thing for me on this build)

Thank you!
 
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That nails it, it looks even better with bigger side ventilation on my opinion.

I think extending (I assume also "right side" to be extended too, that is not showing in the renders) makes bottom rad pulling air inside the case now actual option as the air could flow out better through the extended ventilation and more open bottom and better bottom clearance are good for that too.

Will be ordering definitely ordering the black one to replace my current M1 V1 :)
 
I still have a Silver V1 brand new in the box with both top panel options that I was ready to use for a new Ryzen build later this year but now that V6 is tempting me...
 
GnomeCop said:
I still have a Silver V1 brand new in the box with both top panel options that I was ready to use for a new Ryzen build later this year but now that V6 is tempting me...
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I was considering reusing the v1 but the ventilation and extra gpu spacing plus the support bracket and flexible fan mounting points is making me reconsider. I'll probably make the old v1 a htpc or something.
 
GnomeCop said:
I still have a Silver V1 brand new in the box with both top panel options that I was ready to use for a new Ryzen build later this year but now that V6 is tempting me...
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Your user name is 'interesting'. I guess imitation IS the best form of flattery.
 
Just a heads up: preorders were up briefly, but w360 tells me the shipping calculator isn't working correctly, resulting in free shipping for those who managed to order. If that was you, you may have your order canceled and will have to reorder when it's fixed.

Edit: w360 tells me it's fixed now and preorders are back up.
 
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Necere said:
Just a heads up: preorders were up briefly, but w360 tells me the shipping calculator isn't working correctly, resulting in free shipping for those who managed to order. If that was you, you may have your order canceled and will have to reorder when it's fixed.
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Will I be alerted to that?

EDIT: My receipt says I paid shipping.
 
What is the value now that is written on the label when posted? when I bought V1 it was around 89~, just to be able to clear customs with right value :)
 
Just wondering...I have the old noctua C12 cooler in my M1, but wondering...if I were to update the guts, would any of the other Noctua models offer roughly equivalent cooling/noise profiles? I usually run things stock, no overclocking.
 
GnomeCop said:
I still have a Silver V1 brand new in the box with both top panel options that I was ready to use for a new Ryzen build later this year but now that V6 is tempting me...
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I too still have a silver V1 sitting in a box unused. I ordered a black as well and put it to use right away. Just never got around to building something in the silver unit.
 
caycep said:
Just wondering...I have the old noctua C12 cooler in my M1, but wondering...if I were to update the guts, would any of the other Noctua models offer roughly equivalent cooling/noise profiles? I usually run things stock, no overclocking.
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The U9S has similar weight to the heatsink, and the fans are pretty good. You could also ask Noctua for updated mounting hardware and stick the new a12x25 on your existing cooler
 
Not sure if there's somewhere better to ask this.

I'm in the process of replacing the fans / shroud of my GPU with 120mm fans at the bottom of my ncase:

lhJJSdS.jpg


One minor snag is the GPU heatsink has some small clips that stick out and get in the way on one of support arms on a fan, so it doesn't quite fit in fully:

CeWCk7O.jpg


amGDxGY.jpg


My thoughts are either bending the metal part of the heatsink away or cutting though the support arm on the fan to get it to fit.

I don't think the fans can be repositioned here and the clip isn't big enough to interfere with the fan blades so bending isn't essential.

I would rather make any change to the fan rather than the GPU but wondered this might fundamentally compromise it?

Any advice welcome.
 
cjone2 said:
Not sure if there's somewhere better to ask this.

I'm in the process of replacing the fans / shroud of my GPU with 120mm fans at the bottom of my ncase:

View attachment 176864

One minor snag is the GPU heatsink has some small clips that stick out and get in the way on one of support arms on a fan, so it doesn't quite fit in fully:

View attachment 176865

View attachment 176866

My thoughts are either bending the metal part of the heatsink away or cutting though the support arm on the fan to get it to fit.

I don't think the fans can be repositioned here and the clip isn't big enough to interfere with the fan blades so bending isn't essential.

I would rather make any change to the fan rather than the GPU but wondered this might fundamentally compromise it?

Any advice welcome.
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Should be okay cutting just one, but will the blades spin with that inside the fan? Or, if it will spin, why do you need to cut anything — can't get the side cover on?
 
Nobu said:
Should be okay cutting just one, but will the blades spin with that inside the fan? Or, if it will spin, why do you need to cut anything — can't get the side cover on?
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The GPU is being stopped about 5mm short of the PCIE slot, being blocked by this metal bit hitting the fan support.

The metal bit is not tall enough to interfere with the fans when as intake, but does stop them being used for exhaust unfortunately.
 
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