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Discussion in 'Small Form Factor Systems' started by wahaha360, Sep 15, 2012.
None of those links are working for me.
yeah i've had that problem on hardforum before, they said something about http vs https on imgurs side, was trying to not spam with pics but guess this is best way to post them
Yes, change "https" to "http". Here are working links:
referencing this person's build https://imgur.com/oxQY0zH.jpg
sneak peak at the cables http://imgur.com/QfIcRgb.png
pic of the cables before shipped out to me http://imgur.com/8kMfEph.jpg
backplate im waiting to order http://imgur.com/hTGkrd1.jpg
Are those ensourced cables?
he does ncase and dan case, he's highly recommended on reddit
some of his work (completed ncases)
Does he use the 3d printed cable combs? Because those are brittle AF and is the only reason I went with cablemob, because you can get aluminum combs.
yes theyre 3d printed. are they really that bad?
i went with him over ensources because he worked with me (16AWG wire paracord, with colors ensourced wasnt offering) and he deals with ncases/dan case alot so he has the exact measurements already
i just saw a 20% coupon in my mobo box for cablemod lol
Yeah, those 3d printed combs will snap if you look at them funny. Sucks to say, but they are going to break and there's literally nothing you can do to prevent it. They're just too brittle.
damn i'll do my best i guess.
Personally I added a duct so all warm air is expusled.
I had a set of the Ensourced cables and like you said the combs are incredibly brittle.
im only seeing 17 of the countersunk screw , but im suppose to have 19. what part of the chassis is it for? (i dont have any 2.5 drives)
You are referring to the H screws, right? Those are used for attaching the stacking brackets to the sides of 2.5 inch drives (one on top of the other). This way you can get two drives in the mounting space of one drive, such as either side of the front panel or on the bottom of the case. Note that there is only room for two drives underneath the front cover if they are both 7 mm thick. The H screws are also used to attach the power supply and side fan brackets to the M1 chassis.
yes the H scews, since i dnt use 2.5 drives i should have enough for the psu
I cant get the bottom left of the io shield to stay in no matter what. Any tips?
edit just left the IO shield out
anybody have a picture of the optical drive holder? i see something in front but it looks like a hdd folder instead
I have a M1 build thats been solid for ~3 years now, but now I want to add a GPU for faster rendering.
I have a ASUS 1080ti strix in my gaming rig and I could use this as an excuse to upgrade that soon, but looking in the M1 it doenst look like any card would fit?
When I installed the DarkRock TF cooler I knew it was massive, it was listed as compatible (but "touching" the back plate) on most GPUs I saw. I would have gone with an AIO single fan cooler but this thing outperformed all of the AIO's I saw. Its hard to remember, but I believe this is the only orientation the cooler fit on this motherboard when I installed it.
Is my motherboard the problem (Asus Z87I-Deluxe Z87 Mini ITX)? I tried test fitting an older GPU and there was just no way it was going to happen.
I used the Dark Rock TF on 2 different boards in the M1. I remember my Gigabyte z170 had almost this same problem with the cooler oriented like you have yours, If I removed the backplate I could mount a GPU but not with the backplate in place. Fortunately I was able to mount it 90 degrees and was able to fit the GPU. Are you sure that is the only orientation it will fit?
Is the socket location standardized? I can try to remount it, I'm almost sure this was the only way to clear other obstructions (ram, PSU or case, cant remember).
I use the PC daily for work and I'd like to minimize downtime... if it doesn't fit is there a smaller AIO cooler these days that can give me similar cooling performance and not take up so much space?
Here are the 2 boards mounted side by side. Layout looks almost identical.
I had my TF mounted like this.
The heat pipes pushed on the inside ram a bit, but I never had any problem with that slot not working.
I use the Dark Rock TF with the Asus z87i deluxe motherboard. If you face the ends of the heat pipes toward the back of the case, it comes extremely close but isn’t actually touching other than where the rubber pass-through grommets are. This way there is room for using a graphics card and also a 120mm fan in the front side slot. You have to move the power plug and have it unscrewed while installing the TF, but it fits and works extremely well. I’m pretty sure I have posted pictures before, but here are a couple pictures
You have to do this with the power plug while installing, but then you can screw it back in when you are done.
I have one of the first versions of the case and my RAM is very low profile.
Like several of you, I've been curious about the new 2.75 slot EVGA cards and doing an accelero type mod for cooling just by removing the fans. I found this picture on the EVGA website and the circled areas might cause issues. But one thing is for sure, the sink is taller on the outsides than the middle where it is sunk in. I still believe there's a lot more sink surface area vs an accellero since it goes all the way from the cold plate down to almost two full slots. But I am worried about the brackets that the fan assembly screws into. Looks like it would have to be cut off in order to fit flush against two bottom fans.
Edit: This other picture shows that it might be a seperate piece completely, which would be super cool.
Yeah, you can see some countersunk screws around the part that goes under the fan hub, and what looks like a button head screw. One of those probably hold it onto the fin array.
the heatsink looks smaller in the 2nd and 3rd pics. weird.
Asus has a really nice looking option for their 2080ti 2.7 slot card. I would be more inclined to go this route as an accelero alternative vs the evga heatsink.
Got these designs in any place that someone could use? I just got my 3D printer and am really intrigued by what you have designed.
I’ll have to hunt down those files. Not sure if I would want to share them, as they’re very rough. I remember having to do a whole bunch more hand work to get everything to fit. I meant to refine the CAD file, but something shinier came along...
I’ve gone back to a much simpler build now:
vs back in the day...
Looks good Nanook, if I was going to do another gaming build in my M1 I would go big air too.
How are your temps with the C14s and Accelero?
Temperatures are great. Neither my CPU or GPU are overclocked for my current needs. My chips are not great at overclocking. If I OC by about 10%, you’d add another 10c to the temps below.
Stress test temperatures:
Can’t wait to upgrade with the new cpu/gpu later this year
Any big reasons for the change back to air? And whatever you've got, I'll take. I am working on a crazy build and am trying to accumulate all the parts I need.
I cant wait to show off what I have in the works...
I can't wait to see. I love unique things in the M1.
I'm looking forward to what the consensus is on some of these 2.x slot coolers for the 20 series and the NCase M1.
It'd be really nice if the heatsink can compare with the Arctic Accelero and we just need to replace the fans.
I got a good deal on the gigabyte Aorus gaming box that comes with a gtx 1080 mini ITX inside it. I took it out of the gaming box and put it in my M1, but I can’t seem to keep the temps below the throttling threshold. I guess I shouldn’t be surprised at this because I have been extremely frustrated with GPU cooling the whole time I have had this case. Getting a card with a blower type cooler didn’t work, and using the accelero only works for about a day or two after I clean the dust filters, and that’s just barely under throttle temps even then. The only time I consistently had GPU temps below the throttling temp was when I was water cooling with a custom loop. I thought my problem was the fact that I was using a 220 watt card (GTX 770) but even my 180W GTX 1080 that I have now can’t keep cool. I thought it would be a good idea to get the GTX 1080 that comes in the Aorus gaming box because it has a 130mm fan on it. I thought that fan would be good at keeping quiet and providing ample airflow at the same time, but I was wrong. It is not very good at keeping itself cool unless it has direct access to fresh air, otherwise, it just recirculates hot air, because it doesn’t have a shroud.
It works for me... MSI 1080 Ti AERO. I use a fan curve to keep it pretty quiet, I have it set at 52% if 88°C is reached then 100% if 90°C is reached and that never happened or I would have heard it. It sometimes goes in the 80's but again never heard the fan goes 100% so to me it's all good.
What do you guys think would be best fan setup for the new FE2080 with a C14S with window?
in the bottom out the top?
i'd wait on a partner card unless youre running as is, the new FEs are very unfriendly to take a part.
That’s probably what I’ll try first.
Accelero III might be a backup if temps are poor this way.
so word is 1080ti > 2080 founders edition on price per preformance based on gamers nexus benchmarks