NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Discussion in 'Small Form Factor Systems' started by wahaha360, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. rfarmer

    rfarmer Gawd

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    You have to use the ATX PSU bracket with a SFX to ATX adapter in order to move the PSU to the very front of the case, otherwise the 140mm fan won't fit.
     
  2. Shottie

    Shottie [H]Lite

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    Sure. They're just two small pieces of aluminum I got off ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/183063072023

    Using 3M tape I was able to mount one of the aluminum pieces to the side of the PSU. It covers everything perfectly.

    Or lots of 3M tape =P
     
  3. Revenant_Knight

    Revenant_Knight Limp Gawd

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    So today I switched my mildly overclocked 8086K on Asus z370i from a Noctua U9S to a Cryorig C1 to see if I could lower temps. Boy did it ever...

    My previous cooling setup was a 980TI stock blower exhaust for the GPU. I had the U9S with a 92mm Noctua fan, and 92mm Noctua fan exhaust. The bottom of the case had 2 120mm Noiseblocker fans.

    The new setup has the same 980TI GPU, and one Noiseblocker 120mm on the C1, sand one Noiseblocker above it as an intake.

    Depending on the load, I dropped 7 to 10C. The GPU fan runs a little higher, but the system really needed the side intake.

    Noise profile has improved, except under heavy GPU load.

    I’m actually wondering if NCASE can offer a high airflow left side panel with perforations running all the way down.
     
  4. xfan10

    xfan10 n00bie

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    many of us here have 2 x 120mm fans at the bottom blowing onto the video card. I have read that it would be better to remove the stock shroud and fans from the video card, in my cases a EVGA 1080 ti SC2. the problem I am having is finding a guide on how to do this as most guides show how to remove the entire heat sink off and not just the shroud. Has anyone found any guides for such a task or have experience removing just the shroud on my particular card?

    I did make some what of an attempt. I found screws on the side that loosens part of the shroud, but there is one screw uniquely located underneath the shroud that I am having trouble getting to. Any advice would be appreciated.

    CTykXgX.jpg
     
  5. pendragon1

    pendragon1 [H]ardForum Junkie

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    looks like you need to take the entire thing off to get to the screws on the underside of it.

    those will be a bitch!
    upload_2018-7-9_18-30-21.png
     
  6. Nobu

    Nobu [H]ard|Gawd

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    Often removing the shroud involves first taking off the entire heatsink (by removing the screws from the back and then disconnecting the fan or carefully flipping the shroud+sink unit over), but of course it differs from one card to another.
     
  7. xfan10

    xfan10 n00bie

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    hmm, im not sure if that one in the back is part of mounting the shroud to the heat sink as I dont see it attached to a clip on the heat sink. it might be just part of the shroud itself? I would like to remove this one screw to see how far it gets me. I think I need like really extremely short on the L portion T6 allen wrench. any suggestions?
     
  8. Nobu

    Nobu [H]ard|Gawd

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    It's almost definitely a small (#1 or #0) philips screw. No reason to use a special screw when you almost have to remove the heatsink to get at it. Edit: otoh, those are really grainy photos (on my screen at least), and I may not be seeing what you see.
     
  9. xfan10

    xfan10 n00bie

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    you're saying a #1 or #0 Philips driver will work on a T-6 Torx screw?
     
  10. pendragon1

    pendragon1 [H]ardForum Junkie

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    idk about that other screw, pics dont show what its attached to. but a small flathead will fit a torx...
     
  11. Nobu

    Nobu [H]ard|Gawd

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    Nah, it just really looks like a philips on my screen. If it's a torx, feel free to ignore me. lol
     
  12. Greeley

    Greeley Limp Gawd

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    I was thinking about getting that card, whats wrong with it?

    Maybe a ref card with the accelero would be better then (prob cheaper too)
     
  13. Shottie

    Shottie [H]Lite

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    Do not do this!

    I did it with my 1080ti SC black. I completely removed the shroud and stock fans and had two noctua nff12s as intake. Temps went into the 90s. I also tried exhaust with the same result. I couldn't even get under 85c at max fan rpm which was stupid loud.

    Trust me. It is not worth your time. You're better off getting an accellero.
     
  14. icc0rz

    icc0rz n00bie

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    I agree, those have too little pressure for this card. You're going to need something like the iPPC-2000 or ML120 Pro. You will also need some sort of duct/shroud to ensure that the pressure reaches the heatsink. I don't see any reason to do this unless you have a bigger cooler, like an Accellero.
     
  15. Shottie

    Shottie [H]Lite

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    The ippc 2000 were the fans used in my test and they aren't sufficient even at full load. I doubt ml120s would do any better. Just not worth doing imo.
     
  16. rfarmer

    rfarmer Gawd

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    Air is going to follow the path of least resistance, if the fans are not mounted directly to the heatsink the air is going to flow around more than through.
     
  17. Greeley

    Greeley Limp Gawd

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    So everybody with an air card has had temp problems and moved to the accelero?


    Evga just restocked and was going to order the 1080ti sc2.

    Does the accelero have passive cooling under light load? (old pc gpu fans wouldnt start till 60c)
     
  18. Shottie

    Shottie [H]Lite

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    I wouldn't say "temp problems" as much as I would say that there are better options. With aib coolers the heat is dumped into the case and it will heat up the CPU too. I've seen up to 10c increases on the CPU temp while the GPU will stay around 65c. Not bad, but the better solution is to exhaust the gpu heat out immediately so the CPU doesn't get hit by it. I think that's why most people go with the accellero and u9s. Intake air from the back, push through the u9s and everything gets sucked out the bottom. It's a really efficient way to handle the heat. But it also will make your hand super toasty if your case is anywhere near your mouse.

    So, if you got the SC2, you would easily be able to keep it cool with stock fan settings and two intake fans on the bottom. Your CPU temps will increase, though.
     
  19. Greeley

    Greeley Limp Gawd

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    My goal is a silent build with acceptable temps.

    Have the u9s currently (not installed), but i can switch it if theres something that plays better with a air cooled gpu.

    I cnt attempt the accelero if needed just not too good with those mods (had a pain just adding a waterblock to my last build)
     
  20. Shottie

    Shottie [H]Lite

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    U9S is generally considered one of the top options for cooling with an exhausted accellero. I tried it and it worked well even with an oc'd 10 core. C14s is better by about 7c, but tbh isn't worth the hassle of completely moving everything around in the case.

    The accellero wasn't that hard to install. It's roughly the same as a waterblock. The only pain is the individual heatsinks on the memory and power delivery. I literally found it easier to hack apart my cold plate than install those suckers lol.
     
  21. Greeley

    Greeley Limp Gawd

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    It was just thermal pads, and i never got my loop running (horrible experience haha)
    3r3n1iB.png

    Sold it and got a 1080 instead while the 980tis were still worth something.


    The accelero looks a bit more complicated, mostly worried i screw up and then cant get a rma.

    Are people using the reference cards for the accelero mod or you using aftermarket cards (my 980ti was a pain to take a part, so many screws)


    Edit: amazon now has a listing page for the platinum corsair psus, looks like pre-orders.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
  22. Shottie

    Shottie [H]Lite

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    The accellero would need you to physically glue on small heatsinks exactly where the water block was requiring thermal pads (it comes with thermal glue). You can use reference cards or aib. Doesn't matter. The accellero gets physically attached to the actual GPU chip and nowhere else, so as long as the accellero cold plate makes contact with the GPU chip you will be fine.
     
  23. Nanook

    Nanook Limp Gawd

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    You guys inspired me to dust off my old C14, with a new A12x25 underneath. Temps are a little bit better than my U9S prior to heat soak. After that, I feel like it’s similar to the U9S.
    WdNHRaj.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
  24. Shottie

    Shottie [H]Lite

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    Are you pushing or pulling with the A12x25?

    Looks great by the way!
     
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  25. Nanook

    Nanook Limp Gawd

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    Pushing air thru heatsink, away from cpu.
     
  26. Greeley

    Greeley Limp Gawd

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    febRLoU_d.jpg

    So glue those things on the front and back? Think i'd prefer the tape somebody mentioned

    You guys removed the fans/plastic that were on top of the heatsink? And what do the case fans attach with?


    Would not having a backplate be okay since the exhaust fans will be holding it?
     
  27. Shottie

    Shottie [H]Lite

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    You would need to attach the heat sinks where they are in that image with the thermal glue provided. You also have to put down some thermal tape before you do it, otherwise you risk shorting out certain parts due to metal on metal.

    I removed all the plastic and the fans. All you need is the accellero heat sink. You can attach two 120mm fans to the bottom of the case and use a Y splitter to plug them into a motherboard fan header, or use the gelid gpu 4 pin plus a splitter to attach the fans directly to the GPU and control the RPM from there.

    If you use the stock accellero setup, you cannot have a backplate attached. You can float it if you want, but from what I understand you won't be able to screw it down since it screws directly into the cold plate which you have to remove if you use the individual sinks. That is the standard method of assembly.



    Here is what I did to completely negate having to use individual sinks. I took apart my 1080ti SC until I just had the cold plate. Take a picture of the thermal pad placement so you know where they go. I took some cutters and literally cut off the parts circled below. They are four screw holes for the stock backplate.

    evga-icx-cooler-2.png

    Then I filed it down until there are no parts of those screw holes sticking out. You want a nice square. Cutting those and filing them will allow this part:

    Accelero_Xtreme_III_T02.png

    to fit into this part:

    evga-icx-cooler-3.png

    After you file it, clean the cold plate completely to get all the shards off and reinstall the thermal pads. Fun fact, you do not have to install the pads that go on the underside of the cold plate. You will only need the pads that go between the cold plate and the PCB (And the pads on the back of the backplate but those are unrelated)

    Using this method, you are able to retain the stock backplate and EVGA cold plate. For me this was literally easier than gluing all those stupid little fugly heat sinks.
     
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  28. Greeley

    Greeley Limp Gawd

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    no real difference between a blower and founders edition right?

    looking at one of those(Pny blower, zotac blower, 1080ti founders) or the armor oc for the accelero.
     
  29. Qrash

    Qrash Gawd

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    PNY usually uses the reference PCB on their blower models. I don't know about the Zotac. MSI and Asus also make blower models and they are usually priced lower than their models with custom coolers and PCBs so I suspect that most blower cards use a reference PCB.

    The MSI Armor has a custom PCB. It's almost exactly the same as their more expensive Gaming X model's according to the review by Gamers Nexus. I've read that the power components on the card are very good, but the Armor's low review scores are due to its poor cooler. This has made it a favorite for liquid cooling. This might mean it would be a good choice for an Accelero Xtreme too.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2018
  30. icc0rz

    icc0rz n00bie

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    It's worth noting that the fan control/rpm setup will be different between the cards. You'll want your exhaust fan specs to fit with those in the BIOS of the card.
    I installed the Accelero on a FE card and had to flash it with the SC2 BIOS to get any proper fan control since the blower has way higher min/max rpms. Using one of those (silly) fan control apps often won't be enough. Using a physical device to modify the PWM signal is also a route. I really miss the previouis genereation's BIOS editor which would give you full control.

    Here's my setup of the Accelero IV w/backplate:
    https://imgur.com/a/13nsI
     
  31. Greeley

    Greeley Limp Gawd

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    I didnt think about the bios, good call.

    The FE does seem to be cheaper (new) than the other blower cards

    Yes that was why i was considering the armor, gaming x pcb and slight factory OC.

    heres a pic i found online of the shitty coooling job the msi cooler is doing lol

    Nktusfb.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2018
  32. jferreir

    jferreir n00bie

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    What is the OC potential with the Noctua U9S in a push/pull configuration (2-fans)? Could I get a respectable OC from the upcoming i9-9900k, or is that just wishful thinking? I believe the TDP will be 95W, which is the stated maximum for the cooler. Can anyone share their experience with OC'ing the i7-8700k (also 95W)? I will be installing two slim 120mm intake fans on the bottom, and one slim 120mm intake fan on the side bracket (feeding the U9S). Is de-lidding mandatory for this type of configuration? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!
     
  33. Qrash

    Qrash Gawd

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    I don't have all the answers, but from my readings the 8700K uses a lot more than Intel's TDP rating of 95 W, especially when overclocked. With 2 more cores I would expect the new model to use even more power, though there are no reports on this yet. I think you would be better off with a larger heatsink or liquid cooling, but let's see what other people think.
     
  34. Nanook

    Nanook Limp Gawd

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    Thanks! What is it about giant heatsinks, and heatpipes take makes a computer look sexy?
     
  35. Bawjaws

    Bawjaws Limp Gawd

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    Why a slim fan on the side bracket, as a matter of interest? Presumably you mean on the right-hand side of the bracket, as even a slim fan won't fit directly over the heatsink (the left side of the bracket).
     
  36. xfan10

    xfan10 n00bie

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    I got the shroud and fans off without taking the heat sink off to see if the bottom Noctua chassis fan could keep the card with the stock heatsink cool enough but the temps couldn't hold. after about 2 minutes in Heaven, it began to slowly exceed previous temps with the shroud. But considering the Noctua fans were maxed out at 1300 rpms connected to the chassis header, where as the EVGA fans kick up to 3000 rpms, I bet it would have worked if the Noctuas could hit 3000. they are a lot quieter than the EVGA. Now I did have a adapter cable that would allow me to connect the Noctuas to the EVGA fan headers but the cable was way to thick to fit through the stock heatsink and the space where the fan headers are is extremely cramped. the biggest challenge of this entire thing was reconnecting the stock fans. it was a close call.

    HNzIKUI.jpg phBxJFj.jpg kNniwwa.jpg hp4Tlfg.jpg [​IMG]
     

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    Last edited: Jul 13, 2018 at 4:16 AM
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  37. jferreir

    jferreir n00bie

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    It now seems obvious that I misread the chart; the 95W TDP rating was for the i7-9700k. I'd still be interested in what others have to say about the OC potential for this CPU, if only to help me decide whether the k-version is worth the added cost.

    Yes, the right side of the bracket. This is primarily to move the air in the front of the case, while also supplying fresh air to the U9S (horizontal orientation). There's no particular reason for the slim fan, I just had an extra one laying about.
     
  38. rfarmer

    rfarmer Gawd

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    Delid the 8700k, that makes all the difference. I gained 20C with mine and I can now overclock mine using a Scythe Big Shuriken 2 and still get reasonable temps.
     
  39. xfan10

    xfan10 n00bie

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    I found the K not worth it and overclocking not worth it in general and went with a non-K and not even for the cost. Mainly to avoid all that extra heat, its nearly double the TDP and the fact that most games do not use 100% cpu usage and on average you get about a 10 percent gain which is not worth the heat and ware and tear. Most games that I play, my 8700 cpu is at about 30% usage. everything is so video card dependent now.
     
  40. xfan10

    xfan10 n00bie

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    What did overlooking improve for you?