NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Chapeau

Gawd
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Messages
753
guys, i am asking help from the collective M1 owners:

i have been having trouble with my system since day 1; it would randomly crash, torment me with many many BSoDs with different bugcheck codes, or shutdown during sleep or after waking up from sleep.

to recap: at first, i had a ASRock Z87E-ITX motherboard, which finally died after less than a year, so i switched it with a Gigabyte B85N-Phoenix WiFi motherboard. this helped a bit with the problem (as in, the frequency of the shutdowns and crashes decreased, but the problem never went away). i did many many hours of memory testing with many different diagnostic programs and performed burn tests but found no obvious problems with the memory or the CPU or any other hardware. i was under the impression that due to the randomness of the crashes/shutdowns and the fact that the BSoD bugcheck codes were all over the place, the problem could only be either the memory or the faulty/failing PSU. at the same time, i was reluctant to change more things without finding the real culprit, but finally, after 4 years from building this computer, i gave in and bought a new PSU (Corsair SF450 SFX) and new pairs of DDR3 RAM 8GB modules (G.SKILL) during the black friday sales.

yesterday, i took out the old PSU (Silverstone SFX 450W Gold) and RAM (Crucial Ballistix LP) and put in the new ones, and turned the computer on. i did many cycles of sleep-to-on, and finally, after about 8 hours or so, the computer greeted me with a BSoD while opening a PDF document in Firefox, not long after being woken up from sleep. granted, i think i'd need to reinstall Windows in case the old OS install was corrupted by a faulty memory (if that had been the problem, i mean). but i got really bummed out by seeing the BSoD after changing these two components.

changed already: motherboard, PSU, RAM
not changed yet: GPU, 128GB mSATA drive, 1TB WD HDD, Haswell i5 CPU.

does anybody have any ideas on how to proceed with this? i am at my wits' end with this after 4 years of dealing with this issue and do not know how to diagnose this problem. i don't want to constantly buy parts for this computer (it's been a significant source of emotional and financial burden for me in the last 4 years.), so i'd rather find the real issue and deal with it as opposed to throw random parts at it.

thank you very much.

I can't say I have any magical solution for you. But sometimes it's the basics that we tend to gloss over than can trip us up.
Recently I was having a strange round of issues similar to yours - random freezing, not waking from sleep, BSOD. Turns out my 24pin and EPS power cables were not making good contact. Had to pull them out and reshape some of the connectors. Voila.. perfect computer again.

Mind you - It's not like I'm playing around with my cables all the time so it took about 1 week to diagnose. Like you, no obvious errors to report.

Don't give up... (y)(y)
 

Rhialto

Gawd
Joined
Feb 23, 2004
Messages
545
Well I now have all the required parts! :D 2 years ago I began looking for that 'upgrading' day but there wasn't anything interesting to justify an update. I've always been modest with my previous builds but this time I went all in! More about that on my website.

Can you believe that M1 case from Taiwan was faster to get here than parts I bought at the other far end in Canada? :) That was a great surprise.

rgaaons.jpg


Yet what I can say is that I've tested the video card in my current computer (not the M1 but another Lian Li) and it looks promising. Reading some comments I wasn't sure of it being the best option but to me it sounded just to be the ultimate one. In my current computer I've tried a MSI 560 Ti HAWK Twin Frozr III a few years ago and sound was insane, even with the little switch on silent. Had to return and wait a few months later and tested an EVGA GTX 660 Ti blower type and it was very silent. So the only option here for me was the blower type card with the advantage of blowing all the hot air outside the case. More on that later.

I plan to write a blog about my build process, probably on pcpartpicker. Does that sounds good? That would be a first. And I will of course post here also. I have a few ideas in mind that haven't been tested.

Signature updated! :p
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,168
Well I now have all the required parts! :D 2 years ago I began looking for that 'upgrading' day but there wasn't anything interesting to justify an update. I've always been modest with my previous builds but this time I went all in! More about that on my website.

Can you believe that M1 case from Taiwan was faster to get here than parts I bought at the other far end in Canada? :) That was a great surprise.

rgaaons.jpg


Yet what I can say is that I've tested the video card in my current computer (not the M1 but another Lian Li) and it looks promising. Reading some comments I wasn't sure of it being the best option but to me it sounded just to be the ultimate one. In my current computer I've tried a MSI 560 Ti HAWK Twin Frozr III a few years ago and sound was insane, even with the little switch on silent. Had to return and wait a few months later and tested an EVGA GTX 660 Ti blower type and it was very silent. So the only option here for me was the blower type card with the advantage of blowing all the hot air outside the case. More on that later.

I plan to write a blog about my build process, probably on pcpartpicker. Does that sounds good? That would be a first. And I will of course post here also. I have a few ideas in mind that haven't been tested.

Signature updated! :p

Welcome to the club and good luck with your build. I actually prefer a reference style card, only time it gets loud is when I am gaming and it doesn't bother me. I am much happier exhausting all the hot air out of the case.
 

FlamingKomodo

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
80
Well I now have all the required parts! :D 2 years ago I began looking for that 'upgrading' day but there wasn't anything interesting to justify an update. I've always been modest with my previous builds but this time I went all in! More about that on my website.

Can you believe that M1 case from Taiwan was faster to get here than parts I bought at the other far end in Canada? :) That was a great surprise.

rgaaons.jpg


Yet what I can say is that I've tested the video card in my current computer (not the M1 but another Lian Li) and it looks promising. Reading some comments I wasn't sure of it being the best option but to me it sounded just to be the ultimate one. In my current computer I've tried a MSI 560 Ti HAWK Twin Frozr III a few years ago and sound was insane, even with the little switch on silent. Had to return and wait a few months later and tested an EVGA GTX 660 Ti blower type and it was very silent. So the only option here for me was the blower type card with the advantage of blowing all the hot air outside the case. More on that later.

I plan to write a blog about my build process, probably on pcpartpicker. Does that sounds good? That would be a first. And I will of course post here also. I have a few ideas in mind that haven't been tested.

Signature updated! :p

Full blown upgrade, very nice.
 

darxider

Weaksauce
Joined
Nov 17, 2013
Messages
91
I can't say I have any magical solution for you. But sometimes it's the basics that we tend to gloss over than can trip us up.
Recently I was having a strange round of issues similar to yours - random freezing, not waking from sleep, BSOD. Turns out my 24pin and EPS power cables were not making good contact. Had to pull them out and reshape some of the connectors. Voila.. perfect computer again.

Mind you - It's not like I'm playing around with my cables all the time so it took about 1 week to diagnose. Like you, no obvious errors to report.

Don't give up... (y)(y)

Thanks a lot. I replaced the PSU and RAM this past weekend, so I had to redo all the cables. I had one BSoD the same day (with the new parts) and non since; to be fully certain, I am planning to do a clean install of Windows 10 and test with the minimum possible number of USB peripherals connected (I have a USB webcam and a Xbox 360 wireless received connected at all times, but I rarely use them) to see if I can reproduce the problem.

Could you elaborate on "reshape some of the connectors"? What exaclty did you do? Did you fiddle with the connectors on the cables, the motherboard, or the PSU? What what did you do exactly to "reshape" them?

I appreciate your help a lot

Cheers!
 
D

Deleted member 306612

Guest
Which is preferred Noctua u9s or the Noctua D9L for an air cooled build?
 

Soules

n00b
Joined
Mar 13, 2017
Messages
11
How much radiator would you recommend in the the M1 with a Fury X and a 6700k? I am about to order my rads and pump from EK and wanted a second opinion. I was planning on putting a 240 on the side and a 120 in the bottom with the DDC pump. Also would going with a thicker side radiator on the side and using the new slim noctuas or a standard size rad and the normal 25mm fans be the better idea. Its going to be soft tubes its my first watercooled build and all i care about is the temps. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,168
How much radiator would you recommend in the the M1 with a Fury X and a 6700k? I am about to order my rads and pump from EK and wanted a second opinion. I was planning on putting a 240 on the side and a 120 in the bottom with the DDC pump. Also would going with a thicker side radiator on the side and using the new slim noctuas or a standard size rad and the normal 25mm fans be the better idea. Its going to be soft tubes its my first watercooled build and all i care about is the temps. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Well if you are talking about a 240mm EK I am guessing you mean the SE, I implore you not to buy one. Get a HWLabs BlackIce Nemesis GTS 240. Several users here have switched from the EK to the HWLabs and gotten much better results. I would go with the single 240mm radiator and 25mm fans. Slim fans struggle to properly cool 30mm thick radiators so any thicker is just going to be worse.

I have only seen one build with a 240mm plus a 120mm and the guy said it didn't make enough of a difference to matter.
 

Bijiont

n00b
Joined
May 17, 2016
Messages
45
I agree with HWLabs radiator. They make some amazing radiators, have been using them for a very long time in other builds.

On the topic has anyone compared a stand alone DDC vs pump/cpu block combo? I know the head pressure on the cpu/block combo will be less but wonder if anyone has tested it.
 
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Smitty2k1

Gawd
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
650
Has anyone done an AIO GPU cooler along with a big tower CPU cooler?

After upgrading to Vega I'm not sure I can handle the blower noise anymore. I thought my GTX 780 SuperClock was loud...
 

voklskier4452

2[H]4U
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
2,093
I have a 1070 Aero that I purchased the EVGA hyrdo kit for along with a Noctua NH-U9S and it is reasonably quiet. The GPU itself runs under 45C even at 100% GPU usage with a +150 core and +500 memory overclock while my 4700K at 4.3ghz stays under 65C while gaming. I wouldn't go back to an aircooled only card in this case as they can either run cool or run quiet and not both in my experience.
 
D

Deleted member 306612

Guest
WOOO just bought myself a black M1! Ok, now for cpu cooling, air cooler like the Noctua U9S over a 240 aio? My GPU is reference by the way. I have an Asus z270i motherboard and I want some overclocking room for my 7700k. Also is a sfxL power supply really a tight fit?
 

FlamingKomodo

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
80
WOOO just bought myself a black M1! Ok, now for cpu cooling, air cooler like the Noctua U9S over a 240 aio? My GPU is reference by the way. I have an Asus z270i motherboard and I want some overclocking room for my 7700k. Also is a sfxL power supply really a tight fit?

I'm bias to air cooling in terms of price to performance, the U9S/C14/D9L are all great coolers from noctua.

After using the Cryorig C1+Asus 370-i+8600k (Doc says no compatibility but it should for 270-i) I'd have to say its my favorite air cooler for the M1 (you have to remove the plastic shroud, switch to a 120mm fan and have low profile ram).
It has the benefit of not covering the ram slots and right side connectors like other top-down coolers (this will save me so much trouble of connecting i/o etc in the furture), direct cooling on the vrms, good surface area size and you can still ad 25mm fans on the side.
It also allowed me to stay away from minimal choice/color options in 92mm fans and have a colour co-ordinated build.

> Also is a sfxL power supply really a tight fit?
Not sure depends on setup and m1 ncase model, but Corsair's sfx line up is fantastic compared to even SFX-L psu's theres little reason to go with another choice usually, though evga has some sfx-l coming and their psu's are highly rated I believe.

my inprog build for reference
 

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Smitty2k1

Gawd
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
650
I have a 1070 Aero that I purchased the EVGA hyrdo kit for along with a Noctua NH-U9S and it is reasonably quiet. The GPU itself runs under 45C even at 100% GPU usage with a +150 core and +500 memory overclock while my 4700K at 4.3ghz stays under 65C while gaming. I wouldn't go back to an aircooled only card in this case as they can either run cool or run quiet and not both in my experience.

Do you have pics? Where does the radiator go?
 
D

Deleted member 306612

Guest
I'm bias to air cooling in terms of price to performance, the U9S/C14/D9L are all great coolers from noctua.

After using the Cryorig C1+Asus 370-i+8600k (Doc says no compatibility but it should for 270-i) I'd have to say its my favorite air cooler for the M1 (you have to remove the plastic shroud, switch to a 120mm fan and have low profile ram).
It has the benefit of not covering the ram slots and right side connectors like other top-down coolers (this will save me so much trouble of connecting i/o etc in the furture), direct cooling on the vrms, good surface area size and you can still ad 25mm fans on the side.
It also allowed me to stay away from minimal choice/color options in 92mm fans and have a colour co-ordinated build.

> Also is a sfxL power supply really a tight fit?
Not sure depends on setup and m1 ncase model, but Corsair's sfx line up is fantastic compared to even SFX-L psu's theres little reason to go with another choice usually, though evga has some sfx-l coming and their psu's are highly rated I believe.

my inprog build for reference
Thanks for the help! Does the C1 have better airflow than the others?
 

FlamingKomodo

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
80
Thanks for the help! Does the C1 have better airflow than the others?
The C1 in its stock config it has better/worse cooling than the D9L and U9S (depending on which review you look at) (credit to noctua), though upgrading to a 25mm noctua fan should provide better acoustics and cooling, though I don't have any statistical data to back that up.

7034_28_cryorig-c1-cpu-cooler-review.png
 

nicknoxx

n00b
Joined
Nov 5, 2017
Messages
10
Does anyone know how long cases take to arrive in the UK? My case left Taiwan a week ago but none of the tracking info has been updated since.
 
D

Deleted member 300218

Guest
I finally managed to get hold of a used C14, and can now change out the U9S, which gave me too high temps (it was never much over 82c, but I still want it lower, or at least get the fans to spin even more silent). I iinitially thought it was a problem with my delidding, and delidded 3 different 7700Ks and even a 6700K. Even a 6600K at lower clock speed gave me the same temps, and I'm pretty sure it's because of bad air flow in the case. Hopefully the C14, that can push the air directly out of the case, can fix it.

It has been a long time since I was active here, and I would hate to go throuigh 600 pages again to read up about the different C14 set-ups. Could anyone remind me what the most ideal scenario for the C14 installation is? I know a 120mm is needed at the bottom, but what's best between 140mm and 120mm at the top? Should I set both thefans in the cooler to pushing out air?

Does having an additional 120mm on the right side to push out air have any good effects as well (mostly in regards to the GPU)?
 
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ptirmal

Weaksauce
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Messages
87
I have a 1070 Aero that I purchased the EVGA hyrdo kit for along with a Noctua NH-U9S and it is reasonably quiet. The GPU itself runs under 45C even at 100% GPU usage with a +150 core and +500 memory overclock while my 4700K at 4.3ghz stays under 65C while gaming. I wouldn't go back to an aircooled only card in this case as they can either run cool or run quiet and not both in my experience.
ACIII'ed 1070 +180 core and +500 memory always stays under 64C
C12P'ed 4770k (delid, @1.25v) @ 4.5GHz stays under 65C while gaming, about 10C while stress testing

This setup is very quiet at all times, even at full load. The only thing that makes it even audible to me is my Silverstone SFX, that I'll be replacing soon.

Just have to use the right components.
 

FlamingKomodo

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
80
I finally managed to get hold of a used C14, and can now change out the U9S, which gave me too high temps (it was never much over 82c, but I still want it lower, or at least get the fans to spin even more silent). I iinitially thought it was a problem with my delidding, and delidded 3 different 7700Ks and even a 6700K. Even a 6600K at lower clock speed gave me the same temps, and I'm pretty sure it's because of bad air flow in the case. Hopefully the C14, that can push the air directly out of the case, can fix it.

It has been a long time since I was active here, and I would hate to go throuigh 600 pages again to read up about the different C14 set-ups. Could anyone remind me what the most ideal scenario for the C14 installation is? I know a 120mm is needed at the bottom, but what's best between 140mm and 120mm at the top? Should I set both thefans in the cooler to pushing out air?

Does having an additional 120mm on the right side to push out air have any good effects as well (mostly in regards to the GPU)?

Ideal? Hmm, no numbers but I think having 2 120mm intake on the side with a 92mm exhaust is ideal you could prob turn down rpm real low in this setup. In turns of price to performance a single 140m on the heatsink should be fine not advised if you like symmetry. In terms of intake or exhaust on the side, not sure you might need to test that one after you decide on your fan lineup. Idk what your gpu+bottom fan line up also.

https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/yDg323 you can take the time to browse any temps here.
 

Nobu

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Messages
7,877
I finally managed to get hold of a used C14, and can now change out the U9S, which gave me too high temps (it was never much over 82c, but I still want it lower, or at least get the fans to spin even more silent). I iinitially thought it was a problem with my delidding, and delidded 3 different 7700Ks and even a 6700K. Even a 6600K at lower clock speed gave me the same temps, and I'm pretty sure it's because of bad air flow in the case. Hopefully the C14, that can push the air directly out of the case, can fix it.

It has been a long time since I was active here, and I would hate to go throuigh 600 pages again to read up about the different C14 set-ups. Could anyone remind me what the most ideal scenario for the C14 installation is? I know a 120mm is needed at the bottom, but what's best between 140mm and 120mm at the top? Should I set both thefans in the cooler to pushing out air?

Does having an additional 120mm on the right side to push out air have any good effects as well (mostly in regards to the GPU)?
Here's an old post, of course conditions vary from one build to another, so take it with some salt. Here's how I found it. ;)
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,168
I finally managed to get hold of a used C14, and can now change out the U9S, which gave me too high temps (it was never much over 82c, but I still want it lower, or at least get the fans to spin even more silent). I iinitially thought it was a problem with my delidding, and delidded 3 different 7700Ks and even a 6700K. Even a 6600K at lower clock speed gave me the same temps, and I'm pretty sure it's because of bad air flow in the case. Hopefully the C14, that can push the air directly out of the case, can fix it.

It has been a long time since I was active here, and I would hate to go throuigh 600 pages again to read up about the different C14 set-ups. Could anyone remind me what the most ideal scenario for the C14 installation is? I know a 120mm is needed at the bottom, but what's best between 140mm and 120mm at the top? Should I set both thefans in the cooler to pushing out air?

Does having an additional 120mm on the right side to push out air have any good effects as well (mostly in regards to the GPU)?

Most setups I have seen use 2 fans as intake on the fan bracket, the heatsink does extend past the first fan so you need 2 for full coverage. Second fan also helps with cooling the motherboard. You can't use a 140mm fan at the bottom, the PSU is in the way. Bottom fans depend more on the GPU you are using than the CPU cooler.
 

M1AF

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
258
I did the optimum tech tempered glass side panel mod. It went okay. Not a big fan of how the glass lines up with the front of the front panel, but I understand why it was designed that way. Doing this absolutely killed my temperatures.

20171215_200100.jpg
20171215_201319.jpg
 

FlamingKomodo

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
80
I did the optimum tech tempered glass side panel mod. It went okay. Not a big fan of how the glass lines up with the front of the front panel, but I understand why it was designed that way. Doing this absolutely killed my temperatures.

View attachment 46546 View attachment 46547

I think you'll be happy with it, going the other route myself, the process of dremeling it, sanding and then using double sided tape with next to no space, then re-doing the tape after a bad cutting job gave me anxiety out the ass, esp since there is no option of going back. Also reduces your gpu cable clearance having glass on the inside.

Really sad theirs no first party solution for a window side panel.

Maybe switching to a shorter cooler/tower cooler would help? Your C14 looks so close to the panel.

I think your window looks awesome btw.
 

M1AF

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
258
The C14 is humping that glass. Hard. I even tried a NF-A9x14 as intake from the back, but that did little to nothing. Had to take it out because the color scheme didn't match.

I inquired about having the stock panel CNC cut, but they said no due to it being aluminium. No way I'd trust myself with a dremel. Guess I'll have to settle for this. I have to retape it though. I did a crappy job my first attempt.
 

FlamingKomodo

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
80
The C14 is humping that glass. Hard. I even tried a NF-A9x14 as intake from the back, but that did little to nothing. Had to take it out because the color scheme didn't match.

I inquired about having the stock panel CNC cut, but they said no due to it being aluminium. No way I'd trust myself with a dremel. Guess I'll have to settle for this. I have to retape it though. I did a crappy job my first attempt.

I'd recommend WD-40 to remove the tape if your planning on re-applying the tape.
I had to do the same and the tape just slides off.
 

M1AF

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
258
I'd recommend WD-40 to remove the tape if your planning on re-applying the tape.
I had to do the same and the tape just slides off.

Thanks for that. I was sitting here wondering how the hell I was going to take it off. It's so sticky.
 

Chapeau

Gawd
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Messages
753
Thanks a lot. I replaced the PSU and RAM this past weekend, so I had to redo all the cables. I had one BSoD the same day (with the new parts) and non since; to be fully certain, I am planning to do a clean install of Windows 10 and test with the minimum possible number of USB peripherals connected (I have a USB webcam and a Xbox 360 wireless received connected at all times, but I rarely use them) to see if I can reproduce the problem.

Could you elaborate on "reshape some of the connectors"? What exaclty did you do? Did you fiddle with the connectors on the cables, the motherboard, or the PSU? What what did you do exactly to "reshape" them?

I appreciate your help a lot

Cheers!

I grabbed a set of needle nosed pliers and gave the female ATX conectors a slight squeeze to ensure they were a tighter fit. As my cables are twisted into a loose bunch, I pulled them out and re-twisted to put less pressure on the connectors also.

Do you have pics? Where does the radiator go?

28400749783_b9bd1edcd7_c.jpg


This was with a NZXT Kraken and G10 bracket. I didn't get quite as nice temperatures, but still way way below what you can achieve on air. I think somewhere around 60 degrees was the norm when maxed out.
 
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Rhialto

Gawd
Joined
Feb 23, 2004
Messages
545
Hi guys,

I've completed my build (see signature) and I was just giving a go a testing more than what I really want because I'm curious so this screenshot shows the highest I've tested yet.

This is 51 on all core and the bench running is the one included in CPU-Z. I'm not sure I want to try 52.

upload_2017-12-16_11-30-19.png


Now what I would like to understand is how to define the voltage. Before the CPU stress bench was running CPU-Z was showing 1.4xx and when I started the bench it dropped to 1.392v.

Because I don't need to squeeze every MHz like some of you my plan will be to max at 48 and will want to fine tune the voltage down. My initial plan was 46 but with so much room left I say, why not try 48. :)

Those familiar with ASUS BIOS, for manual voltage control should I select Adaptive and use offset values?
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,168
Hi guys,

I've completed my build (see signature) and I was just giving a go a testing more than what I really want because I'm curious so this screenshot shows the highest I've tested yet.

This is 51 on all core and the bench running is the one included in CPU-Z. I'm not sure I want to try 52.

View attachment 46613

Now what I would like to understand is how to define the voltage. Before the CPU stress bench was running CPU-Z was showing 1.4xx and when I started the bench it dropped to 1.392v.

Because I don't need to squeeze every MHz like some of you my plan will be to max at 48 and will want to fine tune the voltage down. My initial plan was 46 but with so much room left I say, why not try 48. :)

Those familiar with ASUS BIOS, for manual voltage control should I select Adaptive and use offset values?

I would recommend a delid, I lowered the temps of my 8700k by 20C with a 5.0 GHz 1.35v overclock.
 

Rhialto

Gawd
Joined
Feb 23, 2004
Messages
545
I would recommend a delid, I lowered the temps of my 8700k by 20C with a 5.0 GHz 1.35v overclock.
Nah I don't want to go thst route. Buy the tool and unmount everything... at 48 temps will be better and I'm not afraid of temps, throttle is at 100 so while lower is always better and we all want that, everything under 90 is fine with me.
 

M1AF

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
258
So if I were you, I'd set BCLK at 100, multiplier by 48 and manually set the voltage to 1.3 and LLC to 5. Test that with an actual stress test like aida 64 for an hour. See if it is stable. If it crashes, increase voltage. If it's stable, decrease voltage by 0.010 and test again. Keep going down by .010v until you crash, then go back up .005v and test until it passes. Then you have your stable OC.

Oh, and I'd delid. I know you don't want to but seriously, we're talking 15-20c temp drop. That just means you can input more voltage and be at the same temps or cooler with a higher clock speed. Instead of 80C at 4.8 you'd be at 75c at 5.0. It's an absurd difference.
 

FlamingKomodo

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
80
OMG.
The anxiety of this mod. (Just fucking buy a nice looking card in the first place :eek:, curse you evga and your SC2 cooler being only on 1080TI's)
Colour used Dupli-Color Smoke Metal Cast.
Semi-dis-assembled card, just taped off the rest of the card.

First time spray painting led to an interesting day, I now know paint striper fucking burnsssss. I had to re-do one piece cause I wasn't happy with my heavy handed ness.
Sanded the logo then painted it with the same gun metal, it has this nice weathered look (not in a bad way) when lit up. Otherwise its really dark. NO MORE GREEN \o/.
Still waiting on my ensourced cables.

IMG_20171216_210937.jpg
 

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M1AF

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
258
OMG.
The anxiety of this mod. (Just fucking buy a nice looking card in the first place :eek:, curse you evga and your SC2 cooler being only on 1080TI's)
Colour used Dupli-Color Smoke Metal Cast.
Semi-dis-assembled card, just taped off the rest of the card.

First time spray painting led to an interesting day, I now know paint striper fucking burnsssss. I had to re-do one piece cause I wasn't happy with my heavy handed ness.
Sanded the logo then painted it with the same gun metal, it has this nice weathered look (not in a bad way) when lit up. Otherwise its really dark. NO MORE GREEN \o/.
Still waiting on my ensourced cables.

View attachment 46694

Looks great! I once painted and baked a GTX 780. Mods like that are so fun!
 

FlamingKomodo

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
80
Looks great! I once painted and baked a GTX 780. Mods like that are so fun!

Thanks! I can say my first attempts at several mods have been thrilling, gut wrenching but payed off with a huge sense of accomplishment. Especially when I've messed up but stayed calm and fixed any mistakes I made.

Slowly racking up that experience.

I've been eyeing up your vandal switch mod aswell o-o
 

M1AF

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Messages
258
I'd highly recommend the vandal switch mod. Took me around two months to get the parts from china, and I had to learn how to solder but it was worth it in the end.
 

mooscot

n00b
Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
8
I have a question for Asus Z370i and Cryorig C1 owners.

Can you install Cryorig C1 to ASUS Z370i with the cooler heatpipe curves facing the VRM heatsink? Is there enough clearence?

I know it can be installed heatpipes facing the RAM, but I need to know is it possible to install cooler the opposite way.
 

FlamingKomodo

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
80
I have a question for Asus Z370i and Cryorig C1 owners.

Can you install Cryorig C1 to ASUS Z370i with the cooler heatpipe curves facing the VRM heatsink? Is there enough clearence?

I know it can be installed heatpipes facing the RAM, but I need to know is it possible to install cooler the opposite way.

It will not fit if you have the SFX to the right of the mobo.

You'll need to use the ATX power supply bracket and a adapter for SFX https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-...keywords=silverstone+sfx+power+supply+bracket

Then you can move the PSU, only then will if fit in that orientation.

IMG_20171217_180619.jpg
 

FlamingKomodo

Weaksauce
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
80
Quick 10 minute run if anyone was wondering what range of temps I'm getting.
Idle temps a bit high(?) I think, let me know your opinions, but the main positive is the whisper quiet noise level.
No overclock on gpu (temp limit is 83 with a curve leaning towards low-noise), enough for what I need it for.
temps.png
 
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