NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

rasesh

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Anyone here who has 2 x 3.5" HDD installed + a slim optical drive?
iI so I really needed to know the approx measurement's I would need for the power from PSU - 1st hdd - 2nd hdd - slim optical drive for my custom cables.
Also, are the 3.5" hdd's mounted where the connections are at the bottom or the top?

Thanks!
 

Qrash

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Anyone here who has 2 x 3.5" HDD installed + a slim optical drive?
iI so I really needed to know the approx measurement's I would need for the power from PSU - 1st hdd - 2nd hdd - slim optical drive for my custom cables.
Also, are the 3.5" hdd's mounted where the connections are at the bottom or the top?

Thanks!
In QuantumBraced's post just above (click on the Spoiler to reveal) is a photo in which two 3.5-inch hard drives are mounted in the drive cage which is fastened to the side bracket. The power and data connectors for both drives are at the top of the case. Whether you can do this or not depends on the design of your cables' connectors. I would estimate the length of the cables you need using a ribbon, string, or a tailor's measuring tape.
 

Smitty2k1

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Nope, it's not the C14. The C14 doesn't allow for the drive cage to be installed, also notice that the fan isn't mounted to the bracket as the cooler is not as tall as the C14. Any other guesses?

Edit: Nevermind, I answered my own question. It's the NH-C12P SE14. Discontinued, apparently the successor is the L12, which doesn't make sense to me as the L12 is much smaller. Would have been a good option as a beefy air cooler that also allowed for the drive cage to be installed.
I have this air cooler in my M1. It's very nice!
 

Nanook

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Anyone here who has 2 x 3.5" HDD installed + a slim optical drive?
iI so I really needed to know the approx measurement's I would need for the power from PSU - 1st hdd - 2nd hdd - slim optical drive for my custom cables.
Also, are the 3.5" hdd's mounted where the connections are at the bottom or the top?

Thanks!
I had this set up (with 2x hdd) when I first built my M1. I believe I had my cables were pointed downwards. Its best to dry fit everything and measure the custom length.
 

BaK2BaK

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Does anyone know why my chassis fan doesn't spin down? Its set to be running at 300 rpm when the CPU at 40 degrees but for some reason its stuck at 850. It has a tendency to get "stuck" and never go down after sessions of gaming too. If I reselect a default fan profile then the temperature goes back to normal.
I would first check if there is a conflict between the settings in Dual Intelligent Processor 5 / Fan Xpert 3 and what is set in the BIOS / UEFI.

Then I found this post where the user dangernat has an issue with Fan Xpert and is manually editing the CPU speeds, you could try to do the same for the chassis fan:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answe...ntrol-cpu-fan-running-max-speed.html#14857554
 

Chapeau

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Yup absolutely - often the Bios minimum fan speed needs to be overridden on the Asus board.
 

ptirmal

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Success!





Going to use liquid ultra and see what temp drops I'll see. Right now I'm hitting just under 70c while gaming and running Intel's stress test at 4.0GHz.

I am adding a Noctua NF-A15 PWM to replace the non PWM fan on my C12P se14 cooler, currently running the CPU fan at max speed.

Also will be installing my Arctic Accelero III with 2 x NF-F12 fans onto my GTX 1070.

Might be able to squeeze some more performance out of it, if nothing else, it'll be quieter and cooler!
 
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ghostwich

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Success!





Going to use liquid ultra and see what temp drops I'll see. Right now I'm hitting just under 70c while gaming and running Intel's stress test at 4.0GHz.

I am adding a Noctua NF-A15 PWM to replace the non PWM fan on my C12P se14 cooler, currently running the CPU fan at max speed.

Also will be installing my Arctic Accelero III with 2 x NF-F12 fans onto my GTX 1070.

Might be able to squeeze some more performance out of it, if nothing else, it'll be quieter and cooler!
I wouldn't go as far as saying "anything is better than the Intel factory TIM," but...

Anything is better than the Intel factory TIM.
 

keshley

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Does anyone know why my chassis fan doesn't spin down? Its set to be running at 300 rpm when the CPU at 40 degrees but for some reason its stuck at 850. It has a tendency to get "stuck" and never go down after sessions of gaming too. If I reselect a default fan profile then the fan speed goes back to normal. (edit - typo)



In my experience, you have to have fan spin up and fan spin down times other than 0. If both are set to 0, the fan doesn't spin at all. It's an oddity with the ASUS software. If you're not using the ASUS software, the BIOS settings will let you do that though, IIRC.
 

Qrash

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Success!





Going to use liquid ultra and see what temp drops I'll see. Right now I'm hitting just under 70c while gaming and running Intel's stress test at 4.0GHz.

I am adding a Noctua NF-A15 PWM to replace the non PWM fan on my C12P se14 cooler, currently running the CPU fan at max speed.

Also will be installing my Arctic Accelero III with 2 x NF-F12 fans onto my GTX 1070.

Might be able to squeeze some more performance out of it, if nothing else, it'll be quieter and cooler!
Nicely done with what appears to be a 3D printed delidding device on the right in the second photo. Are you planning to relid the IHS as Kyle Bennet and many others recommend?
 

ghostwich

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Delidding devices actually scare me - I've felt more comfortable and in control with some patience and a sharp razor blade.
 

Qrash

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Delidding devices actually scare me - I've felt more comfortable and in control with some patience and a sharp razor blade.
That is how I delidded my 4790K. The important thing is to go slowly, start in the corners, and don't press the blade in too far. You can always go back to a spot and cut a little deeper, but you can't do the opposite. I have seen posts from people who used dental floss, which sounds even safer than a razor blade. I wonder if that is more difficult or takes longer to complete.
 

ptirmal

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Nicely done with what appears to be a 3D printed delidding device on the right in the second photo. Are you planning to relid the IHS as Kyle Bennet and many others recommend?
I read that.

I plan on applying a few dabs of thermal adhesive in the corners and clamping it in the motherboard. I don't plan to apply sealant and clamp prior to putting it back in. I've seen many people do it without relidding without issues, in fact it seemed like that was the norm before delidding tools became available. Haswell also has a thicker PCB than Skylake and Kaby.

I'll definitely keep an eye on it over time though to see if temps rise.
 
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Qrash

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I read that.

I plan on applying a few dabs of thermal adhesive in the corners and clamping it in the motherboard. I don't plan to apply sealant and clamp prior to putting it back in. I've seen many people do it without relidding without issues, in fact it seemed like that was the norm before delidding tools became available. Haswell also has a thicker PCB than Skylake and Kaby.

I'll definitely keep an eye on it over time though to see if temps rise.
When I delidded my 4790K, I used Noctua NT-H1 as the TIM and reinstalled it with out relidding the IHS. It was placed on top of the die and held in place by the socket lid. No adhesive was applied. Initially, my temperatures were much lower, but very quickly they began to rise towards their pre-delidding values. I plan to redo the TIM (this time with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - a liquid metal TIM) and relid the IHS.

Your idea to use the socket to relid the IHS is clever. Will you wait for the adhesive in the corners to cure (24 hours) before installing the CPU cooler? The only worry I would have is that the excess adhesive might spread and get into the socket mechanisms.
 

ptirmal

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When I delidded my 4790K, I used Noctua NT-H1 as the TIM and reinstalled it with out relidding the IHS. It was placed on top of the die and held in place by the socket lid. No adhesive was applied. Initially, my temperatures were much lower, but very quickly they began to rise towards their pre-delidding values. I plan to redo the TIM (this time with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - a liquid metal TIM) and relid the IHS.

Your idea to use the socket to relid the IHS is clever. Will you wait for the adhesive in the corners to cure (24 hours) before installing the CPU cooler? The only worry I would have is that the excess adhesive might spread and get into the socket mechanisms.
I don't plan to use much in the corners, just a dab. I'll probably let it cure overnight and attach the cooler in the morning. Maybe later depending on how installing the Arctic Accelero goes.

The reason your temps rose was probably more attributed to squeeze out rather than relidding. From what I've read regular thermal paste shouldn't be used as they all squeeze out over time.
 
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BaK2BaK

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Going to use liquid ultra and see what temp drops
Before putting CLU on the die, you better apply some nail polish on the lil capacitors on the left of the die to prevent any shorts due to CLU.
What works even better is covering them with liquid electrical tape.

When I delidded my 4790K, I used Noctua NT-H1 as the TIM and reinstalled it with out relidding the IHS. It was placed on top of the die and held in place by the socket lid. No adhesive was applied. Initially, my temperatures were much lower, but very quickly they began to rise towards their pre-delidding values. I plan to redo the TIM (this time with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - a liquid metal TIM) and relid the IHS.
My 3570k Ivy Bridge is still showing low T° 3-4 (5?) years after delidding. I didn't relid it but I have used CLP on the die/IHS as well as on IHS/NH-C14, so maybe the NT-H1 TIM is to blame as @ptirmal says, dunno...

Your idea to use the socket to relid the IHS is clever. Will you wait for the adhesive in the corners to cure (24 hours) before installing the CPU cooler? The only worry I would have is that the excess adhesive might spread and get into the socket mechanisms.
I just delidded the 6700K of my NCASE M1 and with the top tubing preventing me from removing fully the 240mm rad/fans setup from the case

I found easier to put the CPU back into the socket with the mobo in a vertical position. But obviously that obliged me to relid the CPU this time, so I just put a lil drop of liquid electrical tape on the IHS four corners before putting it back on the PCB and then let them overnight in a clamping pliers.

Delidding devices actually scare me - I've felt more comfortable and in control with some patience and a sharp razor blade.
The tool @ptirmal used, the one designed by @Chri from what I see, is very safe.
That's what I used with my 6700K and the Skylake's thin PCB didn't suffer at all.

That cracking noise wakes me up at night in cold sweats....
There is no cracking noise if you go slowly and wait ~1min each time you tighten the vice, letting time to the Intel silicon to stretch itself.
At last, after the last 'turn' on the vice, while waiting you will hear a little sound telling you the silicon has finally let go the PCB.
As advised, you should also put some foam inside the delid tool to prevent the PCB to hit it when released. But again if you go slowly and wait that's not really needed.
 
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The ASRock X299 ITX board is finally out. Not that I'm interested in doing a custom water loop with it, but if you were to embark on such an undertaking, using this positively badass CPU/VRM block:



what would your options be for pump placement? If you used a side bracket rad, would there be room for a pump anywhere in the case? Any pump small enough to fit under the graphics card or be attached to the back of the PSU? Or would you have to go external pump/res combo.
 

galletabah

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Before putting CLU on the die, you better apply some nail polish on the lil capacitors on the left of the die to prevent any shorts due to CLU.
What works even better is covering them with liquid electrical tape.


My 3570k Ivy Bridge is still showing low T° 3-4 (5?) years after delidding. I didn't relid it but I have used CLP on the die/IHS as well as on IHS/NH-C14, so maybe the NT-H1 TIM is to blame as @ptirmal says, dunno...


I just delidded the 6700K of my NCASE M1 and with the top tubing preventing me from removing fully the 240mm rad/fans setup from the case

I found easier to put the CPU back into the socket with the mobo in a vertical position. But obviously that obliged me to relid the CPU this time, so I just put a lil drop of liquid electrical tape on the IHS four corners before putting it back on the PCB and then let them overnight in a clamping pliers.


The tool @ptirmal used, the one designed by @Chri from what I see, is very safe.
That's what I used with my 6700K and the Skylake's thin PCB didn't suffer at all.


There is no cracking noise if you go slowly and wait ~1min each time you tighten the vice, letting time to the Intel silicon to stretch itself.
At last, after the last 'turn' on the vice, while waiting you will hear a little sound telling you the silicon has finally let go the PCB.
As advised, you should also put some foam inside the delid tool to prevent the PCB to hit it when released. But again if you go slowly and wait that's not really needed.
And this reservoir? model? is custom?

MORE PICS PLEASE! awesome build dude.
 

duke00

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i miss that the watercooler cool the m2 SSD too. and the mobo chipset is longer time air cool, would be better this where watercooled too but on this position it is a little bit difficult :D
 

ptirmal

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Received my Arctic Accelero III from an eBay seller listed as new without thermal adhesive and some bent fins. Contacted them to see what they say but wanted to how they look to you guys. Can I just bend these back?

My clu didn't arrive today either, great series of events...





Edit: after looking this over I'm also missing heatsinks and insulation tape for the cooler. Guess it's going back... Great.
 
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Nanook

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Received my Arctic Accelero III from an eBay seller listed as new without thermal adhesive and some bent fins. Contacted them to see what they say but wanted to how they look to you guys. Can I just bend these back?

My clu didn't arrive today either, great series of events...





Edit: after looking this over I'm also missing heatsinks and insulation tape for the cooler. Guess it's going back... Great.
That’s actually not too bad if the fins are still connected to the heat pipe. They can be carefully bent back. Whether you should return it depends on if you got a good price for this one. The fins do get beat up when I shoehorn my Accelero into the M1.
As for small VRM heatsinks, you can find them online quite easily. If you have a reference card (eg: 1070/1080) you could try the Gelid Icy Vison VRM heatsink that bolts into the graphics card mounting holes quite nicely.
 
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The fins can be bent back and the cooler will definitely still work, but it would look ugly. This is serious damage, you should try to get a refund. There also seems to be some discoloration of the cold plate and where the heatpipes go into the cold plate. I don't think this is new. Ebay has a good policy where if you open a dispute with a seller, they have to address your issue or else Ebay gets involved. I only buy things from Ebay as a last resort. The Accelero is available on Amazon, so why not order from there.
 

ptirmal

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That’s actually not too bad if the fins are still connected to the heat pipe. They can be carefully bent back. Whether you should return it depends on if you got a good price for this one. The fins do get beat up when I shoehorn my Accelero into the M1.
As for small VRM heatsinks, you can find them online quite easily. If you have a reference card (eg: 1070/1080) you could try the Gelid Icy Vison VRM heatsink that bolts into the graphics card mounting holes quite nicely.
I didn't get a good deal really, it was a big store seller and I assumed it would be new. I was able to get it for $10 off ($50) with my eBay bucks that I would have no use and a discounted eBay card I had. My current card is Asus blower. It has most of the heatsinks in this kit but I'm not sure how many I need until I take my blower card apart.
 

rasesh

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So, I did a lot of digging on this thread yesterday and found a few cable measurements I was happy with and also a couple that I'm a bit confused with and would love your opinion:
PSU: SF600
Mobo: Asus z270i ROG Strix
CPU cooler: Noctua U9S [dual fans]
GPU: EVGA 980Ti

24-pin: 250mm - Perfect

8-pin: Some say 350mm and other's 400mm. Which 1?

2x 6+2 pin: Depends if you want to go up top or below. I want to go below but it's not straight below as there are fans there. It's below & slightly to the right (https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static...630.92f1a9235b5c663563a444504a71ef07.256c.jpg). 250mm or 300mm?

Sata power [2 x 3.5" hdd + slim optical drive] - Apparently PSU - 1st sata = 100mm - 2nd sata 50mm ---- confused about length from the 2nd hdd to the front optical drive length.

Are there custom length sata to motherboard cables? If so, from where & what length for the 2 x 3.5" hdd to motherboard?

I do understand some people telling me I should do the measurements myself and see but to be frank I just don't have the time and need the PC built asap, I can't spend a week to wait for the cables to come in. Also, this forum/thread already has a-lot of information on it which is great and just need some of your brain power for a couple cable lengths.


Thanks!
 
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Nobu

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So, I did a lot of digging on this thread yesterday and found a few cable measurements I was happy with and also a couple that I'm a bit confused with and would love your opinion:
PSU: SF600
Mobo: Asus z270i ROG Strix
CPU cooler: Noctua U9S [dual fans]
GPU: EVGA 980Ti

24-pin: 250mm - Perfect

8-pin: Some say 350mm and other's 400mm. Which 1?

2x 6+2 pin: Depends if you want to go up top or below. I want to go below but it's not straight below as there are fans there. It's below & slightly to the right (https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static...630.92f1a9235b5c663563a444504a71ef07.256c.jpg). 250mm or 300mm?

Sata power [2 x 3.5" hdd + slim optical drive] - Apparently PSU - 1st sata = 100mm - 2nd sata 50mm ---- confused about length from the 2nd hdd to the front optical drive length.

Are there custom length sata to motherboard cables? If so, from where & what length for the 2 x 3.5" hdd to motherboard?

I do understand some people telling me I should do the measurements myself and see but to be frank I just don't have the time and need the PC built asap, I can't spend a week to wait for the cables to come in. Also, this forum/thread already has a-lot of information on it which is great and just need some of your brain power for a couple cable lengths.


Thanks!
If you have the motherboard and case already you could run some string, twine, or even an unused usb or ethernet cable to get the length, then lay it out straight and flat to measure.

Otherwise, hopefully someone with those components can help. Good luck!
 

Bawjaws

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I do understand some people telling me I should do the measurements myself and see but to be frank I just don't have the time
If you have the motherboard and case already you could run some string, twine, or even an unused usb or ethernet cable to get the length, then lay it out straight and flat to measure.

Otherwise, hopefully someone with those components can help. Good luck!
Yes, I agree with this: with the best will in the world, just get a bit of string and measure the lengths yourself. It'll take five minutes and you'll get numbers that you know are correct, rather than relying on someone with a similar (but perhaps non-identical) setup. Relatively minor things like the orientation of the PSU can make a big difference, for example, so even the exact same hardware configuration might not give you the right answers here.
 

Smitty2k1

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Success!


Going to use liquid ultra and see what temp drops I'll see. Right now I'm hitting just under 70c while gaming and running Intel's stress test at 4.0GHz.

I am adding a Noctua NF-A15 PWM to replace the non PWM fan on my C12P se14 cooler, currently running the CPU fan at max speed.

Also will be installing my Arctic Accelero III with 2 x NF-F12 fans onto my GTX 1070.

Might be able to squeeze some more performance out of it, if nothing else, it'll be quieter and cooler!
Interested in following this - also have a 4770k on the Noctua C12P SE14!

Still rocking a GTX 780 with stock blower cooler though
 

ptirmal

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Interested in following this - also have a 4770k on the Noctua C12P SE14!

Still rocking a GTX 780 with stock blower cooler though
Looks like my liquid ultra will likely be delivered Monday so stay posted. The c12 se14 was the biggest Noctua that would fit my board at the time (2013) because of the socket placement (Asrock z87e-itx), I just wish the fan was PWM as my board doesn't do voltage control.
 

rasesh

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Yes, I agree with this: with the best will in the world, just get a bit of string and measure the lengths yourself. It'll take five minutes and you'll get numbers that you know are correct, rather than relying on someone with a similar (but perhaps non-identical) setup. Relatively minor things like the orientation of the PSU can make a big difference, for example, so even the exact same hardware configuration might not give you the right answers here.
Yes, I agree with this: with the best will in the world, just get a bit of string and measure the lengths yourself. It'll take five minutes and you'll get numbers that you know are correct, rather than relying on someone with a similar (but perhaps non-identical) setup. Relatively minor things like the orientation of the PSU can make a big difference, for example, so even the exact same hardware configuration might not give you the right answers here.
The problem is I don't have the PSU mailed to me yet and I need the system up & running ASAP.
If I do all the measurements and stuff after receiving the PSU then I've got to wait a week for the other cables to come in.
I'd rather put the system together just once then twice.

Anyways, thanks for the input.
 

Nobu

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The problem is I don't have the PSU mailed to me yet and I need the system up & running ASAP.
If I do all the measurements and stuff after receiving the PSU then I've got to wait a week for the other cables to come in.
I'd rather put the system together just once then twice.

Anyways, thanks for the input.
You could look at the dimensions of the SF600 (tech specs) and measure to where the cables come out (based on how you plan to mount it), then measure from there.
Edit: you may want to add a cm or two extra to your final measurement depending on how far it is from the wall of the case where it plugs in to the psu and how you plan to route it.
 
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rasesh

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Hey guys, I've got this one lying around in my garage:
http://www.esaitech.com/panasonic-u...MIsJWqxL2D1wIVzZd-Ch1QcQSgEAAYASAAEgKrE_D_BwE

Panasonic UJ8C5 optical drive.

Will this work for the ncase m1?

1) You must press a button to get it to eject and there isn't any button at the top on the ncase m1.
2) It has a black front plastic thing but it's not a tray load type.


Q: Anyone know a good but cheap ncase m1 slim optical drive with cd/dvd read & re-write that would work 110% with the ncase m1 without a hiccup?
Pref it if available in Canada.

Q: Also, how long does it take for the aliexpress cables to arrive approx?

Thanks.
 
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rfarmer

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Hey guys, I've got this one lying around in my garage:
http://www.esaitech.com/panasonic-u...MIsJWqxL2D1wIVzZd-Ch1QcQSgEAAYASAAEgKrE_D_BwE

Panasonic UJ8C5 optical drive.

Will this work for the ncase m1?

1) You must press a button to get it to eject and there isn't any button at the top on the ncase m1.
2) It has a black front plastic thing but it's not a tray load type.


Q: Anyone know a good but cheap ncase m1 slim optical drive with cd/dvd read & re-write that would work 110% with the ncase m1 without a hiccup?
Pref it if available in Canada.

Q: Also, how long does it take for the aliexpress cables to arrive approx?

Thanks.
I'm in the US and it took about 4 weeks to get my cables from AliExpress.
 

Smitty2k1

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Looks like my liquid ultra will likely be delivered Monday so stay posted. The c12 se14 was the biggest Noctua that would fit my board at the time (2013) because of the socket placement (Asrock z87e-itx), I just wish the fan was PWM as my board doesn't do voltage control.
That upgraded Noctua fan should be nice!
 

Chimaera43

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I'm in the US and it took about 4 weeks to get my cables from AliExpress.
My AliExpress order went in 9/27 and according to tracking it should arrive next week, so about a month for US orders. However, the seller contacted me yesterday and said they shipped the wrong item and are resending the correct set of cables. Wonder what I’m going to get this week?

I’m not too concerned as I’m still waiting for a Coffee Lake 6-core cpu and I’ve had the M1 for about 9 months - a little longer won’t hurt I guess.
 

rfarmer

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My AliExpress order went in 9/27 and according to tracking it should arrive next week, so about a month for US orders. However, the seller contacted me yesterday and said they shipped the wrong item and are resending the correct set of cables. Wonder what I’m going to get this week?

I’m not too concerned as I’m still waiting for a Coffee Lake 6-core cpu and I’ve had the M1 for about 9 months - a little longer won’t hurt I guess.
Yeah I'm curious what cables you will get, hopefully something you can use.
 
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