NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Bawjaws

Limp Gawd
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
443
Alternatively, you could flip the drive top-bottom and route the SATA cable from the bottom.
Unfortunately that won't work, as (if I understand that image and -EpicFail-'s post correctly) the right-angled SATA power connector means that the drive has to be oriented with the connectors at the top: if the drive is rotated through 180 degrees then the power connector won't fit as it'll be obstructed by the panel of the case frame. You can't use the lower set of mounts either, as the drive won't clear the front I/O panel.

Easiest thing to do would be to source a 90 degree SATA data cable. But the problem remains of how to mount the drive to the front panel, as that right-angled power cable means that it won't sit in the mounting points (it looks to be about a centimetre too high up to align with the mounting holes). A bit of velcro would work...
 

-EpicFail-

n00b
Joined
Jun 10, 2017
Messages
7
Unfortunately that won't work, as (if I understand that image and -EpicFail-'s post correctly) the right-angled SATA power connector means that the drive has to be oriented with the connectors at the top: if the drive is rotated through 180 degrees then the power connector won't fit as it'll be obstructed by the panel of the case frame. You can't use the lower set of mounts either, as the drive won't clear the front I/O panel.

Easiest thing to do would be to source a 90 degree SATA data cable. But the problem remains of how to mount the drive to the front panel, as that right-angled power cable means that it won't sit in the mounting points (it looks to be about a centimetre too high up to align with the mounting holes). A bit of velcro would work...
Yes exactly. I started with the ssd facing downward, when I noticed the problem I switched the orientation and put the drive higher as temporary fix. Now I will look for a new cable asI can't close the case.
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,154
I got my NCASE last week-end (for info for customers in Germany: I got it exactly 10 days after the official shipping date, the package arrived in good conditions, I only paid 25 EUR at the customs and it look even better in real life; all good surprises).

I started building it, although my CPU cooler, rear fans and second HDD will arrive tomorrow. (Which means that I will first know tomorrow if my Asus Z170i Pro Gaming has a BIOS recent enough to support a i5-7600K).

I have a problem now with the PSU cables (SF600) - the SATA cable use T-shaped connector which make it impossible/really difficult to use them with 2.5 HDD/SDD stored against the front panel. Do you have a suggestion of brand to use to replace this cable, and alternatively all the PSU cables? (They are long and stiff, if there is an alternative cheaper than the custom-made cables from CableMod I might consider it). Thank you!

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA85V4BV3480 That is what I am using for the SATA power for my stacked drives.


https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesal...0170621145852&SearchText=Corsair+SF600+cables This is where I got my PSU cables, much more reasonable than CableMod.
 

Daemonn

n00b
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
Messages
8
Hey,
I'm in the process of planning a build in this case. Already managed to pick up an used Ncase M1 V5 and a bunch of other parts.

Parts list:
- CPU: I5-7600k
- CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14 ( Already found one from Ebay)
- Mobo: Maximus Impact VIII
- Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 16Gb 3200Mhz
- SSD: Crucial MX100 256Gb ( From my previous build)
- HDD: WD Black 1TB 2.5"
- GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Founders Edition w/ Accelero xtreme iii
- PSU: Corsair SF600

I've got some questions:
1. Is it better to mount the 2.5" HDD in the front of the case where the ODD would be and the SSD on the opposite side beside the PSU? That way the HDD wouldn't be heating the other components. Or perhaps I'd want to cool it by placing it next to a fan..
2. Is it possible to mount the Accelero heatsink without using the included backplate and instead screwing it into the founders edition backplate?
3. I'm still not sure which fans to use. Do you guys think it's worth waiting for the upcoming Noctua A-series 120mm x 25mm fans that are supposed to come out Q3/Q4 this year or using a few Eloops from my old build + picking up 2 more NF-F12?
4. Also I'm thinking about getting some Ensourced cables to clean up the insides of the case. Has anybody used custom cables with the Impact VIII + SF600 combo? What length did you order?

Thanks in advance!
Can't wait to get all of the parts and start the build. :)
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,154
Hey,
I'm in the process of planning a build in this case. Already managed to pick up an used Ncase M1 V5 and a bunch of other parts.

Parts list:
- CPU: I5-7600k
- CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14 ( Already found one from Ebay)
- Mobo: Maximus Impact VIII
- Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 16Gb 3200Mhz
- SSD: Crucial MX100 256Gb ( From my previous build)
- HDD: WD Black 1TB 2.5"
- GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Founders Edition w/ Accelero xtreme iii
- PSU: Corsair SF600

I've got some questions:
1. Is it better to mount the 2.5" HDD in the front of the case where the ODD would be and the SSD on the opposite side beside the PSU? That way the HDD wouldn't be heating the other components. Or perhaps I'd want to cool it by placing it next to a fan..
2. Is it possible to mount the Accelero heatsink without using the included backplate and instead screwing it into the founders edition backplate?
3. I'm still not sure which fans to use. Do you guys think it's worth waiting for the upcoming Noctua A-series 120mm x 25mm fans that are supposed to come out Q3/Q4 this year or using a few Eloops from my old build + picking up 2 more NF-F12?
4. Also I'm thinking about getting some Ensourced cables to clean up the insides of the case. Has anybody used custom cables with the Impact VIII + SF600 combo? What length did you order?

Thanks in advance!
Can't wait to get all of the parts and start the build. :)
I can answer a couple questions, but damn you got lucky finding a NH-C14 on ebay I never see anything but for the S version.

I have a 2.5 mechanical drive stacked in the front, the odd spot, with a SSD and have had no problems with it heating up. It is usually 25 - 30C.
Have you actually removed your FE backplate yet? Without the stock cooler on you have nothing to screw it's retaining screws into.
As far as custom cables my Asrock Z270 has the 24 pin in the same place. I went with 300mm for the 24 pin and the PCI connector. Since the Asus 8 pin is right above the 24pin you should be able to use 300mm for it too.

You might also consider one of these to use with the Accelero http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/icy-vision-gtx10701080-enhancement-kit/ It is a large VRM heatsink for the GTX 1070/1080 FE graphic cards. I am using it with a Gelid Icy Vision but it would work with the Arctic too. It's a larger, more securely mounted way to cool your VRM.
 

Daemonn

n00b
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
Messages
8
I can answer a couple questions, but damn you got lucky finding a NH-C14 on ebay I never see anything but for the S version.

I have a 2.5 mechanical drive stacked in the front, the odd spot, with a SSD and have had no problems with it heating up. It is usually 25 - 30C.
Have you actually removed your FE backplate yet? Without the stock cooler on you have nothing to screw it's retaining screws into.
As far as custom cables my Asrock Z270 has the 24 pin in the same place. I went with 300mm for the 24 pin and the PCI connector. Since the Asus 8 pin is right above the 24pin you should be able to use 300mm for it too.

You might also consider one of these to use with the Accelero http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/icy-vision-gtx10701080-enhancement-kit/ It is a large VRM heatsink for the GTX 1070/1080 FE graphic cards. I am using it with a Gelid Icy Vision but it would work with the Arctic too. It's a larger, more securely mounted way to cool your VRM.
Okay, good to know about the HDD. And I haven't received the GPU yet, only the Accelero which I bought second hand too. The VRM heatsinks that came with it were already used and had some thermal adhesive left on them that I couldn't remove so I ordered some of http://www.enzotechnology.com/bcc9.htm and http://www.enzotechnology.com/mos-c1.htm. I would've bought the kit you mentioned had I seen it earlier, but I'm sure these will work fine as well. Only have to slightly modify the mosfet heatsinks, since they're like 3mm too tall.
 

Chapeau

Gawd
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Messages
752
Update on temperature with all fans on intake, the CPU stays very cool due to fresh ambient air cooling both radiators. So with CPU intensive tasks such as 3D renderings, the CPU stays pretty cool. However, for long gaming session (GTX 1080 +160mhz OC), the GPU will eventually get saturated with heat. The hot air from the bottom radiator would heat up the GPU waterblock from below, and ultimately negating the whole point of watercooling. I could switch the bottom fans to exhaust, but then the whole system would run warm.

Time to decide whether to run a cool CPU+ hot GPU + hot case interior, versus warm CPU/GPU/case interior. What do you guys think?
What you're describing mirrors my own experience exactly. It really wasn't until I cut out the bottom of the case that I managed to get to a happy place with temps and fan speeds.
I think there comes a point where heat soak just makes the temperatures run away from you.
Can you feel much air coming out of the bottom radiator at the moment?

Something that is probably a bit obvious to people who have had a water cooled setup before, that I definitely didn't know before.....

It took a few months of playing around to get a feel for the heat lag in the system and I settled on higher middle fan speeds and lower peak temperature speeds.

Initially, I ran the bare minimum fan speeds and had an aggressive curve at the end figuring that you need more fan to dump heat past the target. What happens instead is that your fans are ramping up and down in response to spiking cpu temps and going down too far when the CPU is "cool" but the water temp is still high. The heat soak really kills the system with a fan curve like this. The curve really needs to be higher in the middle to keep clearing heat from the water in the loop when your CPU is less busy.

It's also worthwhile having a play with the fan settings over some long runs as there is a definite sweet spot with balancing the two radiators.
- I found the bottom needs a higher but more constant speed - Lets say you run it at 1000rpm - 1300rpm. I didn't get better results running it higher.
- The rear radiator can be run at 850rpm and ramp to 1600rpm or so for the same noise level as the bottom fans as it breathes better.

For reference, with a full bottom cut out my idle speeds are 950rpm (40%) for bottom radiator, 650rpm (50%) for rear radiator.
My target temp is around 55 degrees as a peak, so I'm running 60% on the bottom and 70% on the rear. at this temperature. There doesn't seem to be any value in running much higher speed - this just create a bunch of noise.
I try to ramp my fans up fairly early however to try and dump as much heat before it gets to the target, but actually I don't use any more after that.
 

mobidutch

n00b
Joined
May 23, 2017
Messages
15
Finished my build this weekend. My main objective was to keep things quiet, so I went with a dual AIO solution:
- Corsair H75 for CPU
- EVGA 1080Ti SC2 HYBRID for GPU

The PSU has been mounted with the fan as intake. It was a bit tricky to maneuver the AIO tubing to a point where it all fit OK, but it is definitely doable. I added a little wooden dowel to provide support for the graphics card. I have yet to run configure fan curves and do some temperature testing, but so far it seems quiet enough for my liking. If needed I will fit in another intake fan at the bottom. Still planning to add a dust filter to the case bottom.

Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/GyEW5
Played some X-Plane 11 today at pretty high settings. CPU and GPU temps hovered around 50 degrees C, Noctua radiator fans stayed nice and quiet (fan curve at about 50% at those temps). Nice. But the PSU fan (Corsair SF450) was getting pretty loud and annoying. Reviews (like this one) seem to suggest that the SF450 and SF600 produce a similar noise output at the same wattage draw. Tomshardware however shows quite a difference and suggests that the SF450 is much more quiet than the SF600. Does anyone have any suggestions to make the SF450 less noisy?
 
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BaK2BaK

Weaksauce
Joined
Apr 4, 2014
Messages
124
Something that is probably a bit obvious to people who have had a water cooled setup before, that I definitely didn't know before.....

It took a few months of playing around to get a feel for the heat lag in the system and I settled on higher middle fan speeds and lower peak temperature speeds.
.
Thx for sharing! (y)
 

Nanook

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
385
What you're describing mirrors my own experience exactly. It really wasn't until I cut out the bottom of the case that I managed to get to a happy place with temps and fan speeds.
I think there comes a point where heat soak just makes the temperatures run away from you.
Can you feel much air coming out of the bottom radiator at the moment?

Something that is probably a bit obvious to people who have had a water cooled setup before, that I definitely didn't know before.....

It took a few months of playing around to get a feel for the heat lag in the system and I settled on higher middle fan speeds and lower peak temperature speeds.

Initially, I ran the bare minimum fan speeds and had an aggressive curve at the end figuring that you need more fan to dump heat past the target. What happens instead is that your fans are ramping up and down in response to spiking cpu temps and going down too far when the CPU is "cool" but the water temp is still high. The heat soak really kills the system with a fan curve like this. The curve really needs to be higher in the middle to keep clearing heat from the water in the loop when your CPU is less busy.

It's also worthwhile having a play with the fan settings over some long runs as there is a definite sweet spot with balancing the two radiators.
- I found the bottom needs a higher but more constant speed - Lets say you run it at 1000rpm - 1300rpm. I didn't get better results running it higher.
- The rear radiator can be run at 850rpm and ramp to 1600rpm or so for the same noise level as the bottom fans as it breathes better.

For reference, with a full bottom cut out my idle speeds are 950rpm (40%) for bottom radiator, 650rpm (50%) for rear radiator.
My target temp is around 55 degrees as a peak, so I'm running 60% on the bottom and 70% on the rear. at this temperature. There doesn't seem to be any value in running much higher speed - this just create a bunch of noise.
I try to ramp my fans up fairly early however to try and dump as much heat before it gets to the target, but actually I don't use any more after that.
Thank you for the detailed write up!
I'll adjust my fan curves to ramp up earlier, and stay on longer. My rear and bottom fans are all on the same hub that's connected to the CPU fan header on the motherboard. I am currently testing fans set to 50% idle / 80% at 55c. The Noctua fans are pretty quiet even at full blast.

With all the radiator fans in exhuast, I'm still trying to find ways to bring more cool air into the case. I think the case is passively pulling the exhausted warm air back into the case. The slim 92 fan up top helps a little bit in bringing cool air into case. I'm trying to avoid putting a 120mm on the side, as I'm planning to put in a glass window.

Im going to investigate further perforating the case bottom, but probably not to the extend you did :p
 

darksable

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
431
What you're describing mirrors my own experience exactly. It really wasn't until I cut out the bottom of the case that I managed to get to a happy place with temps and fan speeds.
I think there comes a point where heat soak just makes the temperatures run away from you.
Can you feel much air coming out of the bottom radiator at the moment?

Something that is probably a bit obvious to people who have had a water cooled setup before, that I definitely didn't know before.....

It took a few months of playing around to get a feel for the heat lag in the system and I settled on higher middle fan speeds and lower peak temperature speeds.

Initially, I ran the bare minimum fan speeds and had an aggressive curve at the end figuring that you need more fan to dump heat past the target. What happens instead is that your fans are ramping up and down in response to spiking cpu temps and going down too far when the CPU is "cool" but the water temp is still high. The heat soak really kills the system with a fan curve like this. The curve really needs to be higher in the middle to keep clearing heat from the water in the loop when your CPU is less busy.

It's also worthwhile having a play with the fan settings over some long runs as there is a definite sweet spot with balancing the two radiators.
- I found the bottom needs a higher but more constant speed - Lets say you run it at 1000rpm - 1300rpm. I didn't get better results running it higher.
- The rear radiator can be run at 850rpm and ramp to 1600rpm or so for the same noise level as the bottom fans as it breathes better.

For reference, with a full bottom cut out my idle speeds are 950rpm (40%) for bottom radiator, 650rpm (50%) for rear radiator.
My target temp is around 55 degrees as a peak, so I'm running 60% on the bottom and 70% on the rear. at this temperature. There doesn't seem to be any value in running much higher speed - this just create a bunch of noise.
I try to ramp my fans up fairly early however to try and dump as much heat before it gets to the target, but actually I don't use any more after that.
Honestly, that write-up should be stickied at the top of almost every watercooling forum out there.
 
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Chapeau

Gawd
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Messages
752
it'd be one sentence: for best results base your fan speeds on the coolant temp.
I've wanted to install an Aquaero for a while. There is a virtual sensor function that combines cpu + water temperature to control fan speed. It can take whatever is higher automatically..

Trouble is, I dont know where to fit one in!!
I haven't found dimensions for the unit either..

It is kinda funny - no one really talks about how to regulate fan speed. I was wondering what I was doing wrong for a while at the begining.
 

pendragon1

Fully [H]
Joined
Oct 7, 2000
Messages
20,458
I've wanted to install an Aquaero for a while. There is a virtual sensor function that combines cpu + water temperature to control fan speed. It can take whatever is higher automatically..

Trouble is, I dont know where to fit one in!!
I haven't found dimensions for the unit either..

It is kinda funny - no one really talks about how to regulate fan speed. I was wondering what I was doing wrong for a while at the begining.
id put it(temp probe) right after the pump. you want to see what the temp is before it hits all the components to make sure its cool enough. I try to keep it about 10-12c above room temp.

the thing with using your cpu as the temp source is that you cpu will temp spike and drop really rapidly under normal use. this will cause your fans to spin up at odd times and at odd speeds. a loop takes a long time for the water temp to change so those cpu spikes don't really affect the water temp and your cpu will still be cooled correctly even if the fans are at a low speed. I hope that makes sense.
 

phillai

n00b
Joined
Jul 4, 2011
Messages
52
Hi guys, I'm really confused! I just got a PALIT GeForce® GTX 1080 JetStream coming next week but I have a feeling it doesn't fit in my NCASE M1 but can you guys confirm this for me please?
The board Size is 285mm x 133mm
Thanks in advance to all prompt replies!
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,154

And thus concludes my move to air cooling, have to say I am very pleased. Ended up having to get some 20X120mm fans to fit under the Gelid Ice Vision, not many to choose from so got some Deepcool Gamer Storm. Not bad fans, especially at $8. PMW, 800-1800rpm, 62CFM, 32 dBA at load. Running them at 1000 rpm at idle and they are very quiet, I can hear them at load but still very quiet. Load temps are 65C, I was hoping for a bit better but that is 15C cooler than the reference and very acceptable.

Should have gone with the Arctic Accelero III, larger heatsink and clearance for 25mm fans. Oh well this should work well. I can say anyone with a 1070/1080 FE that Gelid makes a nice VRM heatsink if you are going for the Accelero.

The Dark Rock TF is fantastic, even at load the fans are quiet as a mouse.
 

FISCHER

Weaksauce
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
89
come on man this is [H] drill some!
Fair enough, figured he probably did that :woot:

Heres my window mod; basically used a dremel to make the cut, edge trimp ( also called uchannel, to hide marks) and tempered glass from a stand that fits perfectly (cheaper than ordering a piece of Tem Glass online)

Heres the stand (you want the small stand)

https://www.amazon.com/Huntz-Tradin...05&sr=1-1&keywords=tempered+glass+stand+small

And no I don't know or affiliated with them, I just took a chance after reading the measurements and worked out (was worried the piece of glass was too small but fits pretty good tho just test run). Bottom cut little off and probably need to recut and the edge trim was too big so might have to order smaller for more pro look. Those are my old LEDs, gonna put in a Hue+ and maybe flip the D9L to push heat out the top.



Untitled.png Untitled.png
 
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phillai

n00b
Joined
Jul 4, 2011
Messages
52
Hi guys, I'm really confused! I just got a PALIT GeForce® GTX 1080 JetStream coming next week but I have a feeling it doesn't fit in my NCASE M1 but can you guys confirm this for me please?
The board Size is 285mm x 133mm
Thanks in advance to all prompt replies!
Anyone know, pretty please?
 

Necere

2[H]4U
Joined
Jan 3, 2003
Messages
2,742
Anyone know, pretty please?
I'm going to say no, unfortunately :(

The problem is it has a tall PCB (133mm) and the PCIe power connectors aren't recessed. They need about 20mm (15mm at an absolute minimum), and with 140mm total width available in the M1, that only leaves 7mm. Even low profile PEG connectors won't help, since they're still ~10mm.

In addition to that, the thicknes (i.e., number of slots it takes up) might be an issue (hard to say definitively).
 

phillai

n00b
Joined
Jul 4, 2011
Messages
52
Thanks for that reply Necere
I'll have to send it back! :(
I didn't know that you had to take the power connection size into consideration!
 
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rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,154
http://imgur.com/a/k9I59 Thought I would share this, found the link on another site. The guy is watercooling his Ncase with a removable reservoir, I have to say it is a really nice clean build.
I know how parallel cooling works and that it does work, but everytime I see it I always think that water is going to go right through the GPU.
 

darksable

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
431
http://imgur.com/a/k9I59 Thought I would share this, found the link on another site. The guy is watercooling his Ncase with a removable reservoir, I have to say it is a really nice clean build.
I know how parallel cooling works and that it does work, but everytime I see it I always think that water is going to go right through the GPU.
That removable reservoir is... Pretty stinking close to genius. I would love to know how reliable it is at bleeding air in real life.
 

Chapeau

Gawd
Joined
Jul 17, 2016
Messages
752
http://imgur.com/a/k9I59 Thought I would share this, found the link on another site. The guy is watercooling his Ncase with a removable reservoir, I have to say it is a really nice clean build.
I know how parallel cooling works and that it does work, but everytime I see it I always think that water is going to go right through the GPU.
Great find!

I love the idea of pre-bleeding and maintenance using the external res. Such clever thinking.
I honestly can't fathom how the parallel loop works - I'm usually quite good with new concepts but it just wrinkles my brain..
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,154
Great find!

I love the idea of pre-bleeding and maintenance using the external res. Such clever thinking.
I honestly can't fathom how the parallel loop works - I'm usually quite good with new concepts but it just wrinkles my brain..


Reading up on this apparently the biggest problem with a CPU and GPU in parallel is having equal restriction on the 2 blocks. The water will flow better to the one with least restriction.
 
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azagar

n00b
Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Messages
16
Of all the amazing watercooling I have seen in M1's thus far, that link takes to cake for my favorite thus far. Something about it's simplicity makes me want to do the exact same thing in my build.
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,154
Of all the amazing watercooling I have seen in M1's thus far, that link takes to cake for my favorite thus far. Something about it's simplicity makes me want to do the exact same thing in my build.
I would love to know what kind of temps he gets with that setup but you are right, that is one of the nicest setups for water cooling I have seen.
 

Qrash

Gawd
Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
991
Fair enough, figured he probably did that :woot:

Heres my window mod; basically used a dremel to make the cut, edge trimp ( also called uchannel, to hide marks) and tempered glass from a stand that fits perfectly (cheaper than ordering a piece of Tem Glass online)

Heres the stand (you want the small stand)

https://www.amazon.com/Huntz-Tradin...05&sr=1-1&keywords=tempered+glass+stand+small

And no I don't know or affiliated with them, I just took a chance after reading the measurements and worked out (was worried the piece of glass was too small but fits pretty good tho just test run). Bottom cut little off and probably need to recut and the edge trim was too big so might have to order smaller for more pro look. Those are my old LEDs, gonna put in a Hue+ and maybe flip the D9L to push heat out the top.



View attachment 28570 View attachment 28569
It was clever of you to purchase the stand for the glass. How did you remove the glass from the ends with the legs?
 

FISCHER

Weaksauce
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
89
It was clever of you to purchase the stand for the glass. How did you remove the glass from the ends with the legs?
Just pull it out, its just slotted in the plastic with nothing holding it in so little pull and its out.
 

Nanook

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
385
http://imgur.com/a/k9I59 Thought I would share this, found the link on another site. The guy is watercooling his Ncase with a removable reservoir, I have to say it is a really nice clean build.
I know how parallel cooling works and that it does work, but everytime I see it I always think that water is going to go right through the GPU.
So clean. This got me thinking about getting parallel to work for two radiators (rear and bottom). Thanks for sharing!
 

Nanook

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
385
Here's a parallel set up...
Idle temps are 30s
CPU load temps up to 80
GPU load temps up to 70

Will try parallel with the 92mm rad next.

IMG_3415.JPG
 

rfarmer

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
1,154
Has anyone tried fitting the EVGA FTW3 1080 ti inside the case?
Too tall, 5.63" you only have 5.50" available. Plus the power connectors are at the very top of the PCB.

The EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition is only 4.38" and should fit easily.
 

Sebbie

Limp Gawd
Joined
Mar 18, 2016
Messages
253
Too tall, 5.63" you only have 5.50" available. Plus the power connectors are at the very top of the PCB.

The EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black Edition is only 4.38" and should fit easily.
That was a bummer, i like the fact that this 1080 ti was a 2 slot card compared to the Strix..
 

TheTop4884

n00b
Joined
Jun 25, 2017
Messages
3

And thus concludes my move to air cooling, have to say I am very pleased. Ended up having to get some 20X120mm fans to fit under the Gelid Ice Vision, not many to choose from so got some Deepcool Gamer Storm. Not bad fans, especially at $8. PMW, 800-1800rpm, 62CFM, 32 dBA at load. Running them at 1000 rpm at idle and they are very quiet, I can hear them at load but still very quiet. Load temps are 65C, I was hoping for a bit better but that is 15C cooler than the reference and very acceptable.

Should have gone with the Arctic Accelero III, larger heatsink and clearance for 25mm fans. Oh well this should work well. I can say anyone with a 1070/1080 FE that Gelid makes a nice VRM heatsink if you are going for the Accelero.

The Dark Rock TF is fantastic, even at load the fans are quiet as a mouse.
Congrats on the beautiful air cooling build..
I want to do a similar build and I have some questions if I may..
What motherboard is that? Is it the ASRock Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming-ITX/ac
Does the Dark Rock TF hitting the GPU and causing the sag ? can I use a GPU with a backplate in a similar setup?
Can I use the 3.5" drive caddy alongside the Dark rock TD cooler?
Thank you
 
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