NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Thanks for the idea. When you speak about the low noise adaptors on the radiator, are you speaking about these special models? http://noctua.at/en/products/product-line-redux/nf-b9-redux-1600-pwm/specification



Thanks for the picture, I get your point now.

But does this build includes an intake fan on the side bracket? (I guess not). Would this be enough then with only the ones above the CPU? I have just received the 3.5 HDD and was thinking about switching it for a 2.5 HDD to put on the side of the PSU but now I am not so sure anymore. The switch was meant to free space for an intake fan but I never thought that the HDD itself would need much cooling.

The HDDs should be good without any active cooling. Its just important, as I've said, to exhaust the cpu cooler as I have done in my picture.

It will work fine either way, but the way I have suggested just works best from my experience.
 
Anyone with the Asus Strix Z270i use and have issues with the built-in Wifi controller? Fresh install of Windows 10 and it likes to knock me off the internet. All other systems in the house are fine, router was swapped out and the issue doesn't persist with a spare USB network adapter I tried.

Tried to use Win10 drivers with no luck, then back to Asus drivers. Disabling BT didn't help, etc. I've pretty much determined it's the built-in chip, but not sure if I want to disassemble to swap out via Amazon or if there's an unknown fix and I can just stick it out for a driver update. Now that I finally got this system how I wanted it, I'm not terribly excited to pull it back aparet :eek:.
 
Need advice on new GPU... With temps and noise in mind - What is the best 1080 OpenAir GPU out there?

I have been looking at EVGA 1080 DT Gaming, and GigaByte 1080 G1 Gaming - But am unable to find someone who put one of these inside a Ncase M1.

Current build:
i7 7700k @ 4500
2x 960 Evo
H105 AIO Corsair.
My CPU temps are good, never goes above 73c. The H105 runs with 2x NF-F12 and another 92mm (forgot the name of it) Noctua as exhaust on the back.
 
Open air GPU will almost guarantee a 3-5C boost in CPU temps.

The DT FTW should fit, but will choke any type of airfow you might get from the bottom and recirculate heat. The G1 is based on a reference board, so it'll take up less space in the case and flow a bit better should you put fans at the bottom.
 
Sorry to come back to this, I just want to be sure before I order. If I understand correctly, the following setup is a good one for my specs:
1 x Noctua NH-U9S, mounted horizontally with the fan as exhaust directly on the rear exhaust of the case
If you can also duct the exhaust it could only improve. I haven't build mine yet so I can't tell you exactly how to do it but that's what I will be looking for when I have it in hands.
 
For those of you fan of the be quiet! Shadow Rock TF, there is the new TF 2.

mbP2nRv.jpg
 
For those of you fan of the be quiet! Shadow Rock TF, there is the new TF 2.

mbP2nRv.jpg

At first glance the Shadow Rock TF 2 looks to be a reasonable choice. Overall dimensions: 137 mm x 165 mm x 112 mm (LxWxH), which includes the 135 mm x 135 mm x 22 mm fan). This is 18 mm less than the M1 case's 130 mm height limit. The longest dimension is along the direction of the heatpipes. Minus the 22 mm fan, the heatsink is 90.5 mm tall according to the Dimensions PDF, though the website lists the heatsink as only 87 mm tall. Thus there is room for any 25 mm thick fan if you choose to replace the included fan. The Shadow Rock TF 2 is 5 mm narrower than the Dark Rock TF so hopefully this means less interference with GPU slots when mounting with the heatpipes parallel to the PCI-E slot. Underneath the upper heatsink fins the clearance for RAM is 48.5 mm. I wonder if be quiet! have improved their mounting mechanism that many people have complained about.

Addendum: I found a brief news item at Vortez that states the new cooler includes AM4 compatibility and states it is available now "with an MSRP of €60 / $60 / £54.99." So far I have not found a review.
 
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Open air GPU will almost guarantee a 3-5C boost in CPU temps.

The DT FTW should fit, but will choke any type of airfow you might get from the bottom and recirculate heat. The G1 is based on a reference board, so it'll take up less space in the case and flow a bit better should you put fans at the bottom.

I can live with the 3-5C on my CPU as it is currently running around 70C in AIDA stress. But I really don't like throttling on my GPU, I just returned a Palit 1080 Dual OC, I could not for the sake of god get this thing down in temps, even with 2xNH-F12 at the bottom and the GPU fans at near 100% - Don't buy Palit :)
I just had a look at your Imgur with the FTW 1080 Ti... When running these EVGA cards, do you controll the bottom fans with SpeedFan and the temps from your GPU, to reach the 70+ish C???

I must admit, the thought of selling the Ncase and getting another SFF with better airflow has crossed my mind... I love this case, and have been for 3 years, but now as the GPU's are getting more powerful and the temps are rising, it is really a pain to find a good GPU that not throttles or is so loud that it will wake up the kids sleeping in the room next to my office :)

Any other suggestions for a good GPU that will not blow my budget (around 550 Euro) is welcome. But I like to keep my H105, and don't really like to break warrenty and put on a Arctic... :)
 
Thanks for the idea. When you speak about the low noise adaptors on the radiator, are you speaking about these special models? http://noctua.at/en/products/product-line-redux/nf-b9-redux-1600-pwm/specification
No, just the standard NF-A9 fans. The U9S ships with a standard NF-A9 PWM fan, and it also comes with an inline adaptor that reduces the fan's speed (and therefore noise) at the cost of some cooling ability. So it's the stock fan but running slower (max rpm without the adaptor is 2,000rpm and with the adaptor is 1,550rpm). If you buy a second NF-A9 then it'll also come with a low noise adaptor.

Interestingly, the Noctua Redux fans don't ship with a low noise adaptor: you just get the fan and four fan screws, whereas the standard Noctua fans come with a low noise adaptor, fan extension cable, fan splitter cable, and both fan screws and rubber fan mounts.

Hope that makes sense!
 
Hello guys! Sorry for the long post.

First off, I am new here. Recently bought an underutilized and preloved Ncase M1 from a friend. And now, I am watercooling this beautiful case. Going rigid all the way.

After doing some research on the outcome of few possible radiator setups, I didn't really get much info from users with different setups. If I have the time, I would test each setup myself. But I would love some general insights and opinions, pros and cons from you guys on which setups are the best. The setups are:

1. Bottom rad exhaust (push)
2. Bottom rad exhaust (pull)
3. Bottom rad intake (push)
4. Bottom rad intake (pull)

If I add a 92mm rad, I assume that the temps will improve, but at what percentage of improvement?

5. Rear rad exhaust (push)
6. Rear rad exhaust (pull)
7. Rear rad intake (push)
8. Rear rad intake (pull)

My personal opinion:
1. Both rads exhaust in push - Best looking and less heat inside but hard to clean
2. Both rads exhaust in pull - Easy cleaning and less heat inside, still nice to see even if just the rads' fins
3. Both rads intake in push - Fresh air for cooling but more heat inside, hard to clean for dust

Thanks ahead guys! Let me know your opinions.
 
Hello guys! Sorry for the long post.

First off, I am new here. Recently bought an underutilized and preloved Ncase M1 from a friend. And now, I am watercooling this beautiful case. Going rigid all the way.

After doing some research on the outcome of few possible radiator setups, I didn't really get much info from users with different setups. If I have the time, I would test each setup myself. But I would love some general insights and opinions, pros and cons from you guys on which setups are the best. The setups are:

1. Bottom rad exhaust (push)
2. Bottom rad exhaust (pull)
3. Bottom rad intake (push)
4. Bottom rad intake (pull)

If I add a 92mm rad, I assume that the temps will improve, but at what percentage of improvement?

5. Rear rad exhaust (push)
6. Rear rad exhaust (pull)
7. Rear rad intake (push)
8. Rear rad intake (pull)

My personal opinion:
1. Both rads exhaust in push - Best looking and less heat inside but hard to clean
2. Both rads exhaust in pull - Easy cleaning and less heat inside, still nice to see even if just the rads' fins
3. Both rads intake in push - Fresh air for cooling but more heat inside, hard to clean for dust
At first glance the Shadow Rock TF 2 looks to be a reasonable choice. Overall dimensions: 137 mm x 165 mm x 112 mm (LxWxH), which includes the 135 mm x 135 mm x 22 mm fan). This is 18 mm less than the M1 case's 130 mm height limit. The longest dimension is along the direction of the heatpipes. Minus the 22 mm fan, the heatsink is 90.5 mm tall according to the Dimensions PDF, though the website lists the heatsink as only 87 mm tall. Thus there is room for any 25 mm thick fan if you choose to replace the included fan. The Shadow Rock TF 2 is 5 mm narrower than the Dark Rock TF so hopefully this means less interference with GPU slots when mounting with the heatpipes parallel to the PCI-E slot. Underneath the upper heatsink fins the clearance for RAM is 48.5 mm. I wonder if be quiet! have improved their mounting mechanism that many people have complained about.

Addendum: I found a brief news item at Vortez that states the new cooler includes AM4 compatibility and states it is available now "with an MSRP of €60 / $60 / £54.99." So far I have not found a review.
Any idea of RAM clearance? The first TF heat pipes pushed on the first RAM slot in a lot of itx builds I saw and if they are towards the back, will tall RAM fit?
 
Any idea of RAM clearance? The first TF heat pipes pushed on the first RAM slot in a lot of itx builds I saw and if they are towards the back, will tall RAM fit?

According to my earlier post and the Dimensions PDF that I linked to, there is 48.5 mm of clearance under the top fin array.
 
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Hello guys! Sorry for the long post.

First off, I am new here. Recently bought an underutilized and preloved Ncase M1 from a friend. And now, I am watercooling this beautiful case. Going rigid all the way.

After doing some research on the outcome of few possible radiator setups, I didn't really get much info from users with different setups. If I have the time, I would test each setup myself. But I would love some general insights and opinions, pros and cons from you guys on which setups are the best. The setups are:

1. Bottom rad exhaust (push)
2. Bottom rad exhaust (pull)
3. Bottom rad intake (push)
4. Bottom rad intake (pull)

If I add a 92mm rad, I assume that the temps will improve, but at what percentage of improvement?

5. Rear rad exhaust (push)
6. Rear rad exhaust (pull)
7. Rear rad intake (push)
8. Rear rad intake (pull)

My personal opinion:
1. Both rads exhaust in push - Best looking and less heat inside but hard to clean
2. Both rads exhaust in pull - Easy cleaning and less heat inside, still nice to see even if just the rads' fins
3. Both rads intake in push - Fresh air for cooling but more heat inside, hard to clean for dust

Thanks ahead guys! Let me know your opinions.

Good luck with your build - this was the most fun I've had building a system up.

Some quick thoughts: everything else you can search from my username.
1) If you use a bottom rad, a second radiator is not so much an option as an absolute requirement.
- Forget percentages of improvement. It's not worth doing bottom radiator only.

2) Intake/exhaust. For me, double exhaust was best and I can deal with the dust through regular cleaning.
 
2e07685408.jpg


Got my Dark Rock TF installed today, figures as soon as I order one they announce a new version. I have to say that it is a really nice cooler, build quality seems really good. I can see what they mean about the mounting system, it is nice and secure but it is a PITA to get the small nuts on with the cooler in place. Haven't had a chance to run any stress tests yet but it is running at 20C idle at 600 rpm, dead quiet.
 
Does anyone mount/hang the M1 under their table? Can you guys suggest any bracket that would work with M1? Seems like most standard ones are too small.
 
Good luck with your build - this was the most fun I've had building a system up.

Some quick thoughts: everything else you can search from my username.
1) If you use a bottom rad, a second radiator is not so much an option as an absolute requirement.
- Forget percentages of improvement. It's not worth doing bottom radiator only.

2) Intake/exhaust. For me, double exhaust was best and I can deal with the dust through regular cleaning.

Hey, thanks man for your quick reply!

Alright, I'll go ahead and install a 92mm radiator at the back. Hehe. But my system is actually i7-4790K, mini GTX970 on a non-overclockable mobo (ASRock B85M-ITX), so, no OC. Only work and mild gaming. That's why I asked if there is a significant amount of improvement on the temps. And since the card is a short one, i have the half of the rad for cooling without clearance problems like most users with a long card that results to the whole rad has 5-8mm space clearance between the GPU.

Regarding your second suggestion, I was thinking the same thing! With all exhaust, there surely won't be any hot air pockets stuck in the case. But, with a negative pressure, dust is going to be PITA. So, I was wondering, is it worth it to setup the fans to be in push config for the looks, or should I just go pull so that I can easily clean the stucked dust at the rad? Also, will there be any difference of amount of air passing through for any of those setup?

Thanks again Chapeau.
 
Does anyone mount/hang the M1 under their table? Can you guys suggest any bracket that would work with M1? Seems like most standard ones are too small.

Maybe you can DIY? With some plywood or metal strip, and bolts and nuts, you can go crazy haha
 
I can live with the 3-5C on my CPU as it is currently running around 70C in AIDA stress. But I really don't like throttling on my GPU, I just returned a Palit 1080 Dual OC, I could not for the sake of god get this thing down in temps, even with 2xNH-F12 at the bottom and the GPU fans at near 100% - Don't buy Palit :)
I just had a look at your Imgur with the FTW 1080 Ti... When running these EVGA cards, do you controll the bottom fans with SpeedFan and the temps from your GPU, to reach the 70+ish C???

I must admit, the thought of selling the Ncase and getting another SFF with better airflow has crossed my mind... I love this case, and have been for 3 years, but now as the GPU's are getting more powerful and the temps are rising, it is really a pain to find a good GPU that not throttles or is so loud that it will wake up the kids sleeping in the room next to my office :)

Any other suggestions for a good GPU that will not blow my budget (around 550 Euro) is welcome. But I like to keep my H105, and don't really like to break warrenty and put on a Arctic... :)

The one you see in the pics is a standard 'iCX' cooler, so it's the reference styled design whereas the FTW is a much wider PCB. I also believe you'll need a very low profile PCIe power connector/adapter for it as well.

And I ran the GPU fans off of my motherboard header. It was a Gigabyte board, so it had god awful built in fan control. I don't care for speed fan and opt for BIOS solutions any day. With the ASUS board, though, the Qfan controller does a great job and is one of the best BIOS controlled fan curves you can find. I base it off CPU temp, but at a more aggressive rate than the CPU curve.
 
Nesting the fans made a big difference. The fans on the bottom are getting choked on both intake and exhaust side. Every single mm counts in this situation. Effectively you're running fans which would need 60mm of free space on intake/ exhaust with something like 6mm of free space.
Or in other terms, it's like running your fan in a closed box, and having a 6mm slot open on the front. Not ideal.

If you're dedicated, nesting the fans to give them more breathing room, and cutting out the bottom vents will both work wonders. It's say I'm comfortable in the mid 50's on both CPU/GPU nowadays with the mods.


IMG_3279.JPG
Here's an update... swapped new Noctua slim 120mm fans in place of Silverstone fans. Cut away part of the radiator shroud so that slim fans can nest into the radiator. There is 7mm of clearance between GPU waterblock and fans (previously 2mm). Hopefully the slim Noctua 92 fan (higher powered version from my NH-L9i) is more quiet than the Silverstone 92mm fan.
 
View attachment 27776
Here's an update... swapped new Noctua slim 120mm fans in place of Silverstone fans. Cut away part of the radiator shroud so that slim fans can nest into the radiator. There is 7mm of clearance between GPU waterblock and fans (previously 2mm). Hopefully the slim Noctua 92 fan (higher powered version from my NH-L9i) is more quiet than the Silverstone 92mm fan.

Nice setup, I am wondering why you aren't using a 25X92mm fan for the rear radiator?
 
Regarding your second suggestion, I was thinking the same thing! With all exhaust, there surely won't be any hot air pockets stuck in the case. But, with a negative pressure, dust is going to be PITA. So, I was wondering, is it worth it to setup the fans to be in push config for the looks, or should I just go pull so that I can easily clean the stucked dust at the rad? Also, will there be any difference of amount of air passing through for any of those setup?

As with Nanook's setup above, you can actually pull the fan out without removing the GPU. So easy cleaning either way. There are some reviews that suggest that push works better at low speed so that's what I went with. Honesty, if there is a difference it will be very small so either will work.

View attachment 27776
Here's an update... swapped new Noctua slim 120mm fans in place of Silverstone fans. Cut away part of the radiator shroud so that slim fans can nest into the radiator. There is 7mm of clearance between GPU waterblock and fans (previously 2mm). Hopefully the slim Noctua 92 fan (higher powered version from my NH-L9i) is more quiet than the Silverstone 92mm fan.

I like the the clean connection from the 92mm rad to the CPU inlet. Nicely done.
I'm also curious about the fan! (y)
 
Maybe it has been mentioned here and I just missed it but is anyone looking at the EK Fluids for a cheap side mount radiator kit?

https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-kit-a240g

The only concerns I can see are with the GPU block (looks super wide) and the pump/res in trying to find a mounting point without going with external res and changing out the pump top (does anyone sell just the tops for these PWM pumps?)
 
Nice setup, I am wondering why you aren't using a 25X92mm fan for the rear radiator?
As with Nanook's setup above, you can actually pull the fan out without removing the GPU. So easy cleaning either way. There are some reviews that suggest that push works better at low speed so that's what I went with. Honesty, if there is a difference it will be very small so either will work.
I like the the clean connection from the 92mm rad to the CPU inlet. Nicely done.
I'm also curious about the fan! (y)

Thanks! Good call on the 92mm fan - switching to 25mm thick fan as it's more powerful
 
Maybe it has been mentioned here and I just missed it but is anyone looking at the EK Fluids for a cheap side mount radiator kit?

https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-kit-a240g

The only concerns I can see are with the GPU block (looks super wide) and the pump/res in trying to find a mounting point without going with external res and changing out the pump top (does anyone sell just the tops for these PWM pumps?)
Their new all aluminum line seems like a really good kit to get started. Not sure if EK is selling additional aluminum components to further expand / configure the loop.
 
Their new all aluminum line seems like a really good kit to get started. Not sure if EK is selling additional aluminum components to further expand / configure the loop.
Can't remember if they said the fittings were aluminum as well. I would be concerned about the durability of the aluminum threads since its a pretty soft metal.

I have no experience with custom water loops, but it did make me wonder as to its longevity if the loop ever has to be taken apart and reassembled a few times.
 
Can't remember if they said the fittings were aluminum as well. I would be concerned about the durability of the aluminum threads since its a pretty soft metal.

I have no experience with custom water loops, but it did make me wonder as to its longevity if the loop ever has to be taken apart and reassembled a few times.
The fittings are all new, and aluminum. It is definitely softer material, and not as ideal in terms of durability. Traditional (brass / nickel plated?) fitting would chew up an aluminum fitting. However threading aluminum to aluminum should be ok. The lighter fittings, and water blocks, especially GPU block would probably be better for the motherboard. Less GPU sag...
 
IMG_3284.JPG
92x25 fan check!
6700K delid check!
Fully assembled check!
CPU temps better? Nope. It got worse. 88c spikes during realistic load. I must have messed up somewhere with the TIM. Have to drain the loop again. Fun fun.

I just noticed that UEFI light is red in this picture. (needed more DRAM voltage for XMP #1...)
Also noticed slight sag with the pump/res.
 
Hi guys, new here!
I will get my NCASE tomorrow and I have two questions:

1: Will my 1070 MSI Gamin X fit if i buy the 90 degree powercables on ebay, or do I need to switch it out fo a refrence/founders edition?
2: Do i need more than a 450W power supply for my build?

Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX H270I GAMING
GPU: MSI Geforce 1070 Gaming X
CPU: Intel i7 6700k
RAM: Corsair 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2133MHz CL13 Vengeance
PSU: Corsair SF450W or SF600W
 
Hi guys, new here!
I will get my NCASE tomorrow and I have two questions:

1: Will my 1070 MSI Gamin X fit if i buy the 90 degree powercables on ebay, or do I need to switch it out fo a refrence/founders edition?
2: Do i need more than a 450W power supply for my build?

Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX H270I GAMING
GPU: MSI Geforce 1070 Gaming X
CPU: Intel i7 6700k
RAM: Corsair 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2133MHz CL13 Vengeance
PSU: Corsair SF450W or SF600W

The MSI is 5.51" and you have 5.50", even if you can get the card installed the power connectors are at the top of the PCB so even with right angle connectors it will still extend past the side of the case.

https://hardforum.com/threads/ncase...n-first-post.1717132/page-492#post-1042319395 That is the 1080 compatibility list and holds true for most of the 1070s too, there are many cards that will work other than FE.
 
View attachment 27884
92x25 fan check!
6700K delid check!
Fully assembled check!
CPU temps better? Nope. It got worse. 88c spikes during realistic load. I must have messed up somewhere with the TIM. Have to drain the loop again. Fun fun.

I just noticed that UEFI light is red in this picture. (needed more DRAM voltage for XMP #1...)
Also noticed slight sag with the pump/res.
That's a bummer.

About the spikes, Kaby Lake seems to suffer from this much more than the previous chips - I see similar spikes in my 7700K which is also delidded. We're talking momentary spikes of 30-40 degrees.
 
View attachment 27884
92x25 fan check!
6700K delid check!
Fully assembled check!
CPU temps better? Nope. It got worse. 88c spikes during realistic load. I must have messed up somewhere with the TIM. Have to drain the loop again. Fun fun.

I just noticed that UEFI light is red in this picture. (needed more DRAM voltage for XMP #1...)
Also noticed slight sag with the pump/res.

Ouch.... definitely something wrong there...

Out of curiosity, what did you use under the IHS?
 
Ouch.... definitely something wrong there...

Out of curiosity, what did you use under the IHS?
I'm think the IHS is not making full contact with the die. I use Arctic Silver 5. I understanding curing times and potentially warmer than CLU, but it should only be up a few degrees instead of running at high 80s for rendering work, and 90 with synthetic load. I have some CLU coming tomorrow, so I'll try that.
 
I'm think the IHS is not making full contact with the die. I use Arctic Silver 5. I understanding curing times and potentially warmer than CLU, but it should only be up a few degrees instead of running at high 80s for rendering work, and 90 with synthetic load. I have some CLU coming tomorrow, so I'll try that.

The CLU is amazing - I tried Gelid Extreme and PK-3 without success. Perhaps my technique was off? Not sure.... But after using CLU both under the IHS and between the IHS and waterblock, there is no comparison.
 
The CLU is amazing - I tried Gelid Extreme and PK-3 without success. Perhaps my technique was off? Not sure.... But after using CLU both under the IHS and between the IHS and waterblock, there is no comparison.
What waterblock are you using?
Mine is a copper block, so I'd probably use thermal grease instead of CLU between block and IHS. I was reading about galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals...
 
Havn't seen one build with it so far, It's not in the spreadsheet either.
Anyone knows why? I'm thinking of buying it and make an all white build.



P_setting_fff_1_90_end_500.png
 
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What waterblock are you using?
Mine is a copper block, so I'd probably use thermal grease instead of CLU between block and IHS. I was reading about galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals...
I started with an EK supremacy evo. Nice block, but I noticed some hairline cracked in the top fitting after going through all my re-builds.

I switched to the Watercool Heatkiller Pro which is beautifully made. The mounting system in particular is much nicer...

All of the above were nickel plated. It's wise to stay away from liquid metal on copper components.

Also FYI - Indigo XS is compatible with copper. It does seem to work well, but it's a bit of a pain to install.
I'm 50-50 on whether it's worth buying. Performance when it's installed well is amazing, just like CLU. But block maintenance and initial setup is more complicated due to the shape of the application kit.
 
Havn't seen one build with it so far, It's not in the spreadsheet either.
Anyone knows why? I'm thinking of buying it and make an all white build.



P_setting_fff_1_90_end_500.png

Probably not on the spreadsheet because no one has used one yet, there are a lot of 1070s to choose from. Looking at the card the only problem I see with it fitting is the height of the PCB next to the PCI bracket. You might have a bit of a problem with the side panel clip, the Gigabyte 1070 mini is actually a bit taller and I have seen those installed.
 
Finished my build this weekend. My main objective was to keep things quiet, so I went with a dual AIO solution:
- Corsair H75 for CPU
- EVGA 1080Ti SC2 HYBRID for GPU

The PSU has been mounted with the fan as intake. It was a bit tricky to maneuver the AIO tubing to a point where it all fit OK, but it is definitely doable. I added a little wooden dowel to provide support for the graphics card. I have yet to run configure fan curves and do some temperature testing, but so far it seems quiet enough for my liking. If needed I will fit in another intake fan at the bottom. Still planning to add a dust filter to the case bottom.

Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/GyEW5

Parts list:

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz
CPU Cooler: Corsair H75 54.0 CFM Liquid
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270i GAMING
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 SSD
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 HYBRID GAMING
Power Supply: Corsair SF450
AIO Fans: Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-2000 PWM 71.7 CFM 120mm
Optical: Panasonic UJ8C5 DVD/CD Burner
OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
 
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